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THE  GASTRONOMY  COLLECTION  OF 
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AGRIC. 

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THE 

MODEM  HOUSEWIFE 

OB, 


COMPRISING 

NEARLY  ONE  THOUSAND  RECEIPTS, 

FOR   THE    ECONOMIC   AND   JUDICIOUS 

PREPARATION  OF  EVERY  MEAL  OF  THE  DAY, 

WITH   THOSE    OF 

THE  NURSERY  AND   SICK  ROOM, 

AND   MINUTE    DIRECTIONS    FOR   FAMILY   MANAGEMENT 
IN    ALL    ITS    BRANCHES. 

fillustrateti   toft!)   Hnjjrabfnjja. 

BY 

ALEXIS   SOYER, 

AUTHOR    OF   "THE    GASTRONOMIC   REGENERATOR." 

EDITED  BY  AN  AMERICAN  HOUSEKEEPER. 

NEW    YORK: 
D.  APPLETON  &  COMPANY,  200  BROADWAY. 

PHILADELPHIA :  G.  S.  APPLETON,  146  CHESNUT  ST. 
1850. 


ENTERED,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1849,  by 
D.    APPLETON    &    COMPANY, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 
of  New- York. 


7X7// 


AGRfC. 
UBRARr 


PREFACE    BY   THE   EDITOR. 


IN  adapting  M.  Soyer's  admirable  receipt  book  to  the  use  of 
American  families,  I  have  not  presumed  to  amend,  or  attempted 
to  improve  upon  the  text  of  so  accomplished  a  master  of  the 
art,  which  may  with  entire  propriety  be  called  the  "  preserva- 
tive of  all  arts."  All  that  I  have  ventured  to  do  has  been  to 
make  a  verbal  correction  here  and  there,  necessary  to  render 
the  meaning  of  the  author  more  plain ;  to  erase  certain  direc- 
tions for  cooking  different  kinds  of  game  and  fish  unknown  in 
the  new  world ;  and  to  omit  the  purely  local  information,  and 
scraps  of  history,  which  only  increased  the  cost  and  bulk  of  the 
book,  without,  in  any  way,  adding  to  its  value. 

Except  in  one  instance,  nothing  has  been  added ;  for  the  ob- 
ject in  republishing  the  MENAGERE,  was  to  furnish  a  new  and 
valuable  work  on  the  preparation  of  food,  which  should  contain 
important  receipts  hitherto  unknown.  Every  country  must  have 
its  indigenous  dishes,  and  it  is  to  be  presumed  that  every 
American  housekeeper  likely  to  profit  by  M.  Soyer's  receipts, 
will  need  no  instruction  in  the  art  of  preparing  the  many  excel- 
lent dishes  peculiar  to  the  United  States. 

It  is  a  vulgar  error  to  suppose  that  French  cookery  is  more 
costly  and  highly  flavored  than  English  ;  an  examination  of  the 
MENAGERE  will  abundantly  prove  that  the  reverse  is  the  fact, 
and  that  M.  Soyer's  system,  which  has  rendered  him  famous  in 


IV  PREFACE. 


Europe,  is  not  only  simple  and  economical,  but  the  best  adapted 
to  insuring  the  enjoyment  of  health,  the  elevation  of  the  mental 
faculties,  and  converting  the  daily  necessity  of  eating  into  a 
source  of  daily  enjoyment.  M.  Soyer's  great  work,  THE  GAS- 
TRONOMIC REGENERATOR,  was  prepared  for  the  highest  classes 
of  English  society,  and  public  festivals  ;  but  the  MENAGERE  is 
adapted  to  the  wants  and  habits  of  the  middle  classes,  and,  as 
presented  in  the  present  edition,  calculated  for  the  use  of  the 
great  bulk  of  American  families. 

M.  Soyer  is  the  good  genius  of  the  kitchen ;  although  he  is 
the  renowned  chef  of  one  of  the  most  sumptuous  of  the  Lon- 
don Club  Houses,  and  the  pet  of  aristocratic  feeders,  he  has 
labored  continually  to  elevate  the  mind,  and  better  the  condi- 
tion of  the  poor  by  instructing  them  in  the  art  of  obtaining  the 
greatest  amount  of  nourishment  and  enjoyment  from  their  food. 
The  dietetic  maxims  and  culinary  receipts  of  M.  Soyer  are  not 
less  needed  in  the  United  States  than  in  England;  but  for 
different  reasons.  Happily,  our  countrymen  do  not  suffer  for 
lack  of  raw  materials,  so  much  as  for  lack  of  cooks ;  and,  in 
the  Modern  Housewife  of  M.  Soyer,  our  housekeepers  will  find 
a  reliable  guide  and  an  invaluable  friend. 

New  York,  December,  1849. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 
INTRODUCTION, 

DIALOGUE     BETWEEN    MRS.     B AND    MRS.   L ,    HER   FRIEND 

AND   VISITOR, .., ...-:•    •       .     .  1 

LETTER    NO.  I., .»".&• 

LETTER    NO.    II., ,  6 

BREAKFASTS, .  .  .7 

FIRST    SERIES    OF    RECEIPTS, 8 

LETTER    NO.    III., *  ...       26 

EARLY    LUNCHEONS, 27 

LETTER    NO.  IV., -».»'-  i  .       27 

THE    NURSERY    DINNER, V.  .  28 

LETTER    NO.  V., ?'•'••  .      lb. 

COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS,        .          ..'        ,.      , .  :*.     ,  .*     -  .  »>   -      .  .  33 

PUDDINGS   FOR    INVALIDS, •:-:««  .      47 

POULTRY    FOR    INVALIDS,  .  .  .  .  ,  ,  ,  .  63 

CULINARY  CORRESPONDENCE,        .  .  .  .  ......  .65 

LETTER   NO.  VI., ib. 

LETTER   NO.  VII., 56 

LETTER    NO.  VIII.,  .  .  .-•.» 67 

LETTER    NO.  IX.,  .  .  .  .       '   .•  ^    /.•          ,•  •  .58 

LETTER    NO.  X.,         .  .  ,         ,  »         .»         .,         .*         .•  .  .  lb. 

LETTER    NO.  XL, ,         ,4  •  •  .      lb. 

ROASTING,  -     »-  •      »        vi»  4  69 

BAKING,  BOILING,  STEWING,  BRAISING, 60 

FRYING,  .  .  .  .  .          »  .  .  ,      ,     ».   .' .     .  61 

SAUTEING, 62 

BROILING, „       .    ,.     :     ...  63 

SAUCES,  .  .  .        -"..     .       •          v*         .,         ....  •  .64 

SOUPS, 76 

FISH,          .         .V-     .-.          -*         '«:r-«        \»          .»       -  *V-     -•>•'       -*  .       93 

FISH   SAUCES,          .  •  .  .  V        *"         *  "      •  *.         •          HI 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

REMOVES, 117 

LETTER    NO.  XII., 120 

POULTRY, 143 

FLANCS, 158 

ENTREES,  OR   MADE    DISHES, 158 

LETTER    NO.  X11I., 178 

LETTER    NO.  XIV., 181 

DISHES   WITH   THE   REMAINS   Of   LAMB, 184 

EGGS, 216 

GARNITURE    FOR    OMELETTES, 219 

ENTREES   OF    GAME, 220 

ROASTS SECOND   COURSE, 227 

SAVORY   DISHES  .  .  . 234 

LETTER    NO.  XV., 244 

SHELL-FISH, 250 

VEGETABLES, 253 

OF   DIFFERENT   SORTS   OF   PASTRY, 268 

JELLIES, 286 

PUDDINGS   IN   MOULDS, 291 

PUDDINGS   BOILED   IN   CLOTHS, 293 

PLAIN   BAKED    PUDDINGS    IN    DISHES, 294 

REMOVES SECOND   COURSE, 296 

SOUFFLE, 299 

DESSERT, 305 

LETTER    NO.  XVI., lb. 

COMPOTE, 307 

COMPOTES  Of  FRUIT   SIMPLIFIED, 310 

SALADS   OF   VARIOUS   FRUITS, 321 

LETTER    NO.  XVIL, 327 

LETTER   NO.  XVIII., 332 

BEVERAGES    FOR    EVENING    PARTIES, ib- 

LETTER    NO.  XIX.,  ,i  ."•'., 334 

CONVERSATION    ON   HOUSEHOLD   AFFAIRS,     .          ,....•'•  •  •  -336 

BILLS  OF  FARE,    .       ,.       ..'       *  .       •        •        •        '      339 

LETTER  NO.  XX. A  NEW  ALIMENT,   .       >  "''    . 345 

CARVING,      .        .       ;:•       .       ,.  "  .,*'' 346 

LETTER   NO.  XXI. THE   SEPTUAGENARIAN  EPICURE,       ....    348 

INDEX, 351 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  the  following  gossipping  conversation  between  Mrs.  B and 

Mrs.  L ,  and  in  the  two  letters  which  follow,  M.  Soyer  explains  the 

motive  of  the  work ;  and,  in  a  natural  manner  introduces  the  subject. — ED. 


DIALOGUE  BETWEEN  MRS.  B AND  MRS.  L ,  HER 

FRIEND  AND  VISITOR. 

Mrs.  L.  I  have  now,  my  dear  Mrs.  B.,  been  nearly  a  fort- 
night at  your  delightful  Villa,  and  I  must  say,  with  all  truth, 
that  I  never  fared  better  in  my  life,  yet  I  am  considered  some- 
what of  an  epicure,  as  is  likewise  my  husband ;  but,  of  course, 
our  means  being  rather  limited,  we  are  obliged  to  live  accord- 
ingly. 

Mrs.  B.  Well,  so  must  we  ;  and  I  assure  you  that,  during 
the  first  few  years  of  our  marriage,  our  pecuniary  resources 
were  but  small,  but  even  then  I  managed  my  kitchen  and 
housekeeping  at  so  moderate  an  expense  compared  with  some 
of  our  neighbors,  who  lived  more  expensively,  but  not  so  well 
as  we  did,  that,  when  any  of  them  dined  with  us,  they  flat- 
tered me  with  the  appellation  of  the  "  Model  Housekeeper," 
and  admired  the  comforts  of  our  table,  but  would  leave  with 
the  impression  that  I  must  be  the  most  extravagant  of  wives. 
Now,  believe  me,  I  have  always  prided  myself,  .whether  having 
to  provide  for  a  ceremonious  party  or  dining  by  ourselves,  to 
have  everything  properly  done  and  served,  that,  if  any  friends 

1 


INTRODUCTION. 


should  come  in  by  accident  or  on  business,  they  were  generally 
well  pleased  with  our  humble  hospitality,  and  that  without  ex- 
travagance, as  my  husband  is  well  convinced  ;  for  when  we  dine 
with  any  acquaintance  of  ours  he  is  very  eager  to  persuade 
them  to  adopt  my  system  of  management ;  for  though  he  is 
no  great  judge  of  what  is  called  the  highest  style  of  cookery, 
yet  he  does  not  like  to  live  badly  at  any  time ;  as  he  very  justly 
says,  it  matters  not  how  simple  the  food, — a  chop,  steak,  or  a 
plain  boiled  or  roast  joint,  but  let  it  be  of  good  quality  and 
properly  cooked,  and  every  one  who  partakes  of  it  will  enjoy  it. 

Mrs.  L.  Nothing  more  true ! 

Mrs.  B.  But  since  you  talk  of  limited  income  and  economy, 
let  me  relate  to  you  a  conversation  which  occurred  a  few  years 
ago  between  Mr.  B.  and  a  friend  of  his,  who  declared  to  him 
that  his  income  would  never  allow  him  to  live  in  such  luxury, 
which  he  called  a  comfortable  extravagance. 

"  Extravagance  !"  exclaimed  Mr.  B.,  "  if  you  have  a  few  min- 
utes to  spare,  I  will  convince  you  of  the  contrary,  and  prove  to 
you  that  such  an  expression  is  very  unjust,  if  applied  to  my 
wife's  management.  Now,  to  begin ;  what  sum  should  you  sup- 
pose would  cover  our  annual  housekeeping  expenditure,  living  as 
we  do,  in  a  style  of  which  you  so  much  approve,  but  consider  so 
extravagant  ?  there  are  ten  of  us  in  family,  viz.,  myself  and  wife, 
three  children,  two  female  servants,  and  three  young  men  em- 
ployed in  my  business,  and  including  our  usual  Christmas  party, 
which,  of  course  you  know,  (having  participated  in  the  last  two), 
besides  two  separate  birthday  parties  of  twenty  each,  and  three 
juvenile  petits-soupers  and  dances  for  the  children  upon  their 
natal  anniversaries,  also  a  friend  dropping  in  occasionally,  which 
is  never  less  than  once  or  twice  a-week." — "  Well,  I  do  not 
know,"  answered  our  friend ;  "  but  having  nearly  the  same 
number  to  provide  for,  and  in  a  more  humble  way,  my  ex- 
penses for  housekeeping  are  never  less  than  £ per 

annum." — "  Less  than  what  ?"  exclaimed  Mr.  B. ;  "  why,  my 


INTRODUCTION. 


dear  friend,  you  must  be  mistaken  ;"  at  the  same  time  ringing 
the  bell.  "  I  wish  I  were,  with  all  my  heart,"  was  the  reply, 
as  the  servant  entered  the  room ;  "  Jane,"  said  Mr.  B.,  "  ask 
your  mistress  to  step  this  way  for  a  few  minutes ;  I  wish  to 
look  at  her  housekeeping  book."  But  being  busy  at  the  time  in 
the  kitchen,  I  sent  up  a  key  for  him  to  get  it,  which  happened 
to  be  a  wrong  one,  but,  upon  discovering  the  mistake,  sent  up 
the  right  one  with  an  apology  for  not  coming  myself,  as  I  was 
superintending  the  cooking  of  some  veal  broth,  which  the  doc- 
tor had  ordered  for  our  poor  little  Henry,  who  was  ill  at  the 
time.  "  Well,"  said  his  friend,  "  there  is  a  wife  for  you ;  I 
must  confess  mine  can  hardly  find  the  way  to  the  kitchen 
stairs."  "  Now !"  said  my  husband,  opening  my  desk,  and, 
taking  up  my  book,  he  showed  him  the  last  year's  expenditure, 

which  was  £ .     "  No  !  no !  that  is  impossible,"  replied  the 

other.  "  But,"  said  Mr  B.,  "  there  it  is  in  black  and  white." 
"  Why,  good  heavens  !"  exclaimed  he,  "  without  giving  so 
many  parties,  and  also  two  less  in  family,  my  expenditure  is 
certainly  greater."  To  which  Mr.  B.  replied,  "  So  I  should 
imagine  from  the  style  in  which  I  saw  your  table  provided  the 
few  days  when  we  were  on  a  visit  to  your  house  ;  therefore  I 
am  not  in  the  least  astonished.  Here,  however,  is  the  ac- 
count for  the  closing  year  just  made  up  to  the  28th  December, 
1848.  Let  us  see  what  it  amounts  to,  probably  to  £50  or 
£60  more."  "  So,  so,"  replied  the  other,  "  that  is  an  increase ;" 
— "  Let  it  be  so,"  said  Mr.  B. ;  "  but  you  must  remember  that 
we  are  twelve  months  older,  and  as  our  business  increases,  so  do 
we  increase  our  comforts ;  and  this  year  Mrs.  B.,  with  the 
children,  had  a  pretty  little  house  at  Ramsgate  for  two  months, 
which  will  account  for  the  greater  part  of  it." 

Mrs.  L.  But,  my  dear  Mrs.  B.,  I  am  as  much  astonished  as 
your  friend  could  possibly  have  been.  I  should,  however,  have 
liked  you  to  explain  the  matter ;  but  here  comes  your  hus- 
band, who  will  probably  initiate  me  in  your  culinary  secrets. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Good  morning,  my  dear  Mr.  B.  I  have  been  talking  to  Mrs. 
B.  about  her  system  of  housekeeping,  who  was  relating  to  me 
a  conversation  you  had  with  a  gentleman,  who  was  surprised 
with  its  economy.  I  am  also  surprised,  and  should  like  to 
take  a  few  leaves  out  of  your  most  excellent  book,  if  you  will 
allow  me. 

Mr.  B.  Certainly,  my  dear  madam  ;  in  my  wife,  without 
flattering  her  too  much,  you  see  almost  an  accomplished 
woman  (in  hearing  such  praise,  Mrs.  B.  retired,  saying,  "  How 
foolish  you  talk,  Richard") ;  she  speaks  two  or  three  different 
languages  tolerably  well,  and,  as  an  amateur,  is  rather  profi- 
cient in  music,  but  her  parents,  very  wisely  considering  house- 
hold knowledge  to  be  of  the  greater  importance,  made  her  first 
acquainted  with  the  keys  of  the  store-room  before  those  of  the 
piano ;  that  is  the  only  secret,  dear  madam ;  and  this  is  the 
explanation  that  I  gave  to  my  friend,  who  thought  it  a  good 
jest  and  one  of  truth.  I  told  him  to  do  the  same  by  his  two 
daughters,  which  would  not  tfnly  make  them  more  happy 
through  life,  but  transmit  that  happiness  to  their  posterity,  by 
setting  an  example  worthy  of  being  followed.  I  always  say, 
give  me  a  domesticated  wife,  and  with  my  industry  I  would 
not  change  my  position  for  a  kingdom  ;  "  Very  true,  very  true," 
was  my  friend's  answer,  and  we  then  parted. 

I  have  never  seen  him  since  nor  his  wife,  who  was  probably 
offended  at  the  economical  propositions  of  her  husband ;  for 
nothing,  you  are  well  aware,  is  more  common  than  for  people 
to  be  offended  when  told  the  truth  respecting  themselves  ;  or 
perhaps  she  was  too  advanced  in  years  to  think  of  changing 
her  ideas  of  housekeeping. 

I  see,  my  dear  Mrs.  L.,  the  Brougham  is  waiting  at  the  gate 
to  convey  you  to  the  railway ;  allow  me  to  see  you  safe  to  the 
station  ;  you  will  not  have  many  minutes  to  spare,  for  the  train 
will  shortly  be  up. 

About  an  hour  after  the  above  conversation,  Mrs.  L.  was 


INTRODUCTION. 


seen  entering  her  cottage  at  Oatlands,  fully  resolved  to  follow 
as  closely  as  possible  the  economic  management  of  Mrs.  B. ; 
but  a  little  reflection  soon  made  her  perceive  that  she  possessed 
only  the  theory,  and  was  sadly  deficient  in  the  practice  :  she 
then  determined  to  beg  of  her  friend  a  few  receipts  in  writing, 
and  immediately  dispatched  the  following  letter  : — 

From  Mrs.  L to  Mrs.  B . 

Oatlands  Cottage  ;  Jan.  1st,  1849. 

MY  DEAR  HORTENSE, — Upon  my  arrival  at  home,  I  am  happy  to  say 
that  I  found  all  quite  well,  and  delighted  to  see  me,  after  (to  them)  so 
long  au  absence  as  a  fortnight,  which  my  husband  was  gallant  enough 
to  say  appeared  months ;  but  to  myself  the  time  appeared  to  pass  very 
swiftly ;  for,  indeed,  every  day  I  felt  so  much  more  interested  in  watch- 
ing closely  how  well  you  managed  your  household  affairs,  that,  believe 
me,  you  have  quite  spoiled  me,  especially  with  your  recherche  style  of 
cookery,  which  even  now  I  cannot  make  out  how  you  could  do  it  at 
such  moderate  expense  :  and,  apropos  of  cooking,  Mr.  L.,  expecting  me 
home  to  dinner,  had,  I  have  no  doubt,  a  long  interview  and  discussion 
with  Cook  respecting  the  bill  of  fare.  "  Well,  sir,"  I  will  suppose  she 
said,  "  what  can  be  better  than  a  fine  fat  goose,  stuffed  with  sage  and 
ingyons ;  we  have  a  very  fine  'un  hanging  in  the  larder."  (You  must 
observe,  dear,  that  my  cook  is  plain  in  every  way.)  "  A  very  excellent 
notion  that,  Cook  ;  nothing  can  be  better  than  a  good  goose  ;"  was  no 
doubt,  my  husband's  answer,  who,  although  very  fond  of  a  good  dinner, 
cannot  endure  the  trouble  of  ordering  it. 

Well,  then,  here  I  am  in  my  little  drawing-room  (the  window  slightly 
open),  enjoying  the  fresh  country  air,  which  seems  to  have  been  amal- 
gamated with  a  strong  aroma  from  the  aforesaid  goose,  especially  the 
sage  and  onions ;  and  I  am  almost  certain  that  the  inseparable  apple- 
sauce is  burnt  or  upset  on  the  stove,  from  the  brown  smoke  now  ascend- 
ing from  the  grating  over  the  kitchen  window.  This  style  is  now  to  me 
quite  unbearable,  and  I  mean  to  have  quite  a  reform  in  my  little  estab- 
lishment, and  first  of  all  to  bring  up  my  daughter  in  the  way  recom- 
mended by  Mr.  B.  to  his  friend,  to  make  her  more  domesticated  than  I 
am  myself,  as  I  begin  to  perceive  that  a  knowledge  of  household  affairs 
is  as  much  required  as  intellectual  education ;  and,  for  my  part,  I  have 


INTRODUCTION. 


come  to  the  determination  of  adopting  your  system  of  management  as 
closely  as  possible  ;  but  first,  you  must  know,  that,  without  your 
scientific  advice,  it  will  be  totally  impossible  ;  therefore  I  beg  to  pro- 
pose (if  you  can  afford  the  time)  that  you  will,  by  writing,  give  me  the 
description  how  you  lay  out  your  breakfast-table,  with  the  addition  of 
a  few  receipts  for  the  making  of  rolls  and  the  other  breakfast  bread, 
which  I  so  much  enjoyed  while  with  you ;  even  how  to  make  toast,  and 
more  especially  how  you  make  coffee,  chocolate,  cocoa  (tea,  of  course,  I 
know).  And  should  this  meet  your  approbation,  I  mean  to  make  a  little 
journal,  which  may  some  day  or  other  be  useful  to  our  families  and 
friends. 

Until  I  hear  from  you  I  shall  be  waiting  with  anxiety  for  your  de- 
cision upon  this  important  and  domestic  subject. 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

ELOISE. 


From  Mrs.  B ,  in  reply. 

Bifrons  Villa ;  Jan.  3d,  1849. 

MY  DEAR  ELOISE, — In  answer  to  yours,  I  agree,  with  the  greatest 
pleasure,  to  contribute  towards  your  domesticated  idea,  which,  I  must 
say,  is  very  original,  and  ntay,  as  you  observe,  prove  useful ;  but  why 
should  we  confine  our  culinary  journal  to  breakfast  only  ?  why  not  go 
through  the  different  meals  of  the  day  ?  that  is,  after  breakfast,  the 
luncheon ;  then  the  nursery-dinner  at  One  ;  and  here  it  strikes  me  that, 
in  that  series,  we  might  introduce  some  receipts,  to  be  called  Comforts 
for  Invalids ;  even  our  servants'  dinners  and  teas ;  then  the  early  din- 
ner at  two  or  three  for  people  in  business,  the  parlor-dinner  at  six,  the 
coffee  after  dinner,  and  even  suppers  for  a  small  ball  or  evening  party ; 
but  all  on  a  moderate  scale,  leaving  the  aristocratic  style  entirely  to  its 
proper  sphere. 

To  show  my  approbation  of  your  idea,  I  enclose  herewith  the  first 
receipt,  How  to  make  Toast. 


BREAKFASTS. 


WHEN  we  first  commenced  housekeeping,  we  were  six  in 
family,  five  of  whom  breakfasted  together,  the  three  young 

men  in  the  shop,  Mr.  B ,  and  myself.  The  cloth  was 

laid  by  the  servant  girl  at  half-past  seven  precisely ;  at  ten 
minutes  to  eight  I  used  to  make  tea,  and  at  eight  o'clock  we 
were  seated  at  breakfast,  which  was  composed  merely  of  bread 
and  butter  at  discretion,  fresh  water  cresses  when  plentiful,  or 
sometimes  boiled  eggs,  and  for  variation,  once  a  week,  coffee, 
and  if  in  the  winter,  we  had  toast,  which  I  never  suffered  any 
servant  to  prepare  more  than  five  minutes  before  we  were 
seated,  for,  if  standing  any  time,  the  dry  toast  becomes  tough, 
and  the  buttered  very  greasy,  and  consequently  unpalatable, 
as  well  as  indigestible.  Twenty  minutes  only  was  the  time 
allowed  for  breakfast,  after  which  the  table  was  cleared,  the 
cloth  carefully  folded  and  put  by  for  the  next  morning,  for  we 
kept  a  separate  one  for  dinner,  and  imposed  the  fine  of  a  half- 
penny upon  any  one  who  should  spill  their  tea  or  coffee  over 
the  cloth  by  carelessness.  Such  was  always  my  plan  when  in 
business ;  for  you  must  know  as  well  as  myself,  it  is-  not  only 
the  expense  of  the  washing,  but  the  continual  wear  and  tear 
of  the  linen,  which  make  such  frequent  washings  so  ruinous, 
but  my  cloth  used  always  to  look  clean,  and  I  am  confident 
that  not  less  than  five  pounds  a-year  were  saved  on  that  very 
trifling  matter,  and  you  know  we  thought  as  much  then  of  five 
pounds  as  we  perhaps  now  do  of  twenty. 

Before  partaking  of  a  breakfast,  you  must  provide  the  mate- 
rials (which  I  always  select  of  the  best  quality),  and  require  to 
know  how  to  prepare  them.  I  shall,  therefore,  give  you  a 
series  of  every  description  of  articles  which  may  properly  be 
partaken  of  at  the  breakfast-table. 


BREAKFASTS. 


FIRST  SERIES  OF  RECEIPTS. 

Perhaps  some  housekeepers  may  laugh  at  the  presumption  of  M. 
Soyer  in  attempting  to  give  a  formal  receipt  for  so  trifling  a  matter  as 
making  a  piece  of  toast.  But,  in  Cookery,  there  are  no  trifles.  Every 
preparation  of  food,  however  simple,  requires  thought,  care,  and  expe- 
rience. Among  the  unpleasantnesses  of  our  breakfast-tables,  there  are 
none  more  common  than  poor  toast. — ED. 

1.  Toast. — Procure  a  nice  square  loaf  of  bread  that  has 
been  baked  one  or  two  days  previously  (for  new  bread  cannot 
be  cut,  and  would  eat  very  heavy),  then  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
off  the  bottom  crust  very  evenly,  and  then  as  many  slices  as 
you  require,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  (I  gen- 
erally use  a  carving-knife  for  cutting  bread  for  toast,  being  lon- 
ger in  the  blade,  it  is  more  handy,  and  less  liable  to  waste  the 
bread) ;  contrive  to  have  rather  a  clear  fire ;  place  a  slice  of  the 
bread  upon  a  toasting-fork,  about  an  inch  from  one  of  the  sides, 
hold  it  a  minute  before  the  fire,  then  turn  it,  hold  it  before  the 
fire  another  minute,  by  which  time  the  bread  will  be  thor- 
oughly hot,  then  begin  to  move  it  gradually  to  and  fro  until 
the  whole  surface  has  assumed  a  yellowish-brown  color,  when 
again  turn  it,  toasting  "the  other  side  in  the  same  manner ;  then 
lay  it  upon  a  hot  plate,  have  some  fresh  or  salt  butter  (which 
must  not  be  too  hard,  as  pressing  it  upon  the  toast  would  make 
it  heavy),  spread  a  piece,  rather  less  than  an  ounce,  over,  and 
cut  into  four  or  six  pieces ;  should  you  require  six  such  slices 
for  a  numerous  family,  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
would  suffice  for  the  whole ;  but  cut  each  slice  into  pieces  as 
soon  as  buttered,  and  pile  them  lightly  upon  the  plate  or  dish 
you  intend  to  serve  it.  This  way  you  will  find  a  great  im- 
provement upon  the  old  system,  as  often  in  cutting  through 
four  or  five  slices  with  a  bad  knife,  you  squeeze  all  the  butter 
out  of  the  upper  one,  and  discover  the  under  one,  at  the  peril 
of  its  life,  swimming  in  an  ocean  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of 
the  dish. 

N.B.  The  warming  of  the  bread  gradually  through,  on  both 
sides,  is  a  very  great  improvement  upon  the  quality  of  the 


BREAKFASTS.  9 


toast ;  it  may  give  a  trifle  more  trouble,  but  still  it  is  quicker 
done,  and  much  lighter. 

All  kinds  of  toast  require  to  be  done  the  same  way,  but  if 
to  be  served  under  a  bird,  eggs,  or  kidneys,  it  requires  to  be 
toasted  drier. 

Being  in  every  way  an  economist,  I  have  generally  saved 
the  remnants  of  the  loaf  that  have  become  too  dry  to  be  eaten 
as  bread,  and  by  just  dipping  them  in  warm  water,  toasting 
them  gradually,  and  buttering  them,  I  have  generally  found 
that  they  have  been  eaten  in  preference,  but  their  being  stale 
is  a  secret  of  my  own,  which,  if  divulged,  would  prevent  their 
ever  being  eaten  after. 


2.  Dry  Toast. — Ought  not  to  be  toasted  until  quite  ready 
to  serve ;  when  done,  place  it  in  a  toast-rack,  or  standing  upon 
its  edges,  one  piece  resting  against  another ;  any  kind  of  toast 
that  has  been  made  half  an  hour  is  not  worth  eating. 

3.  To  toast  Muffins  (for  Receipt,  see  No.  6.) — Just  open, 
half  an  inch  deep,  the  sides  of  the  muffins,  exactly  in  the  cen- 
tre, with  a  knife,  then  put  your  toasting-fork  in  the  middle  of 
the  bottom,  hold  it  a  little  distance  from  the  fire,  until  partly 
warmed  through,  when  turn  it  and  put  it  again  to  the  fire 
until  it  becomes  lightly  toasted,  when  again  turn  it  to  toast  the 
other  side ;  when  done,  pull  it  open,  spread  a  thin  layer  of  but- 
ter on  each  side,  close  them  together ;  lay  them  upon  a  plate, 
then  with  a  sharp  knife  divide  them  across  the  middle,  and 
serve  very  hot.     If  more  than  one  muffin  is  required,  cut  them 
all  separately,  and  pile  them  lightly  one  upon  another,  on  the 
plate;  when  well  prepared,  they  are,  in  my  opinion,  a  very 
great  luxury,  obtainable  at  a  trifling  expense. 


4.  To  toast  Crumpets. — Crumpets  stand  lower  in  the  gen- 
eral estimation  of  the  public,  probably  from  not  being  so  dis- 
tingue, and  having  the  misfortune  to  be  cheaper  than  their 
sister  muffins  ;  but,  for  all  that,  the  poor  ought  never  to  be  for- 
gotten, and  a  crumpet  toasted  as  follows  is  not  to  be  despised. 
Choose  your  crumpets  fresh  if  possible,  though  they  are  not 
1* 


10  BREAKFASTS. 


bad  after  having  been  made  three  or  four  days ;  toast  them  by- 
warming  both  sides  first,  like  muffins,  then  give  them  a  nice 
light  brown  color  on  each  side,  lay  them  in  a  plate,  and  spread 
some  rather  soft  butter  lightly  upon  each  side ;  cut  in  halves 
with  a  sharp  knife,  and  serve ;  half  a  pat  of  butter  to  each 
crumpet  is  quite  sufficient.  If  you  have  several  to  serve,  lay 
them  separately  upon  a  large  hot  dish ;  some  people  lay  them 
one  upon  the  other,  which  is  a  very  bad  plan,  as  it  causes  the 
under  ones  to  eat  like  a  piece  of  dough,  and  such  food  cannot 
be  wholesome.  Crumpets  require  to  be  toasted  rather  quick. 


5.  To  make  Rolls  and  other  Breakfast  Bread. — Put  four 
pounds  of  flour  into  an  earthen  pan,  make  a  hole  in  the  cen- 
tre, in  which  put  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  warm  water,  to  which 
you  add  a  gill  of  white  brewer's  yeast,  free  from  bitter,  mix  a 
little  flour  to  form  a  leaven,  which  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
(it  must  be  allowed  to  remain  until  the  leaven  has  risen  and 
begun  to  fall),  then  add  a  little  salt  and  a  pint  of  warm  milk, 
form  the  whole  into  a  flexible  dough,  which  keep  in  a  warm 
place  for  another  hour ;  it  is  then  ready,  and  may  be  moulded 
into  the  form  of  rolls,  twists,  little  crusty  loaves,  or  any  shapes 
most  pleasing  for  the  breakfast-table. 


6.  To  make  Muffins. — Mix  a  quart  of  warm  water  in  which 
you  have  dissolved  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  German  yeast,  with 
sufficient  flour  to  form  a  stiffish  batter,  which  let  remain  in  a 
warm  place  four  hours,  then  stir  the  mixture  down,  and  break 
it  into  pieces  weighing  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each,  which  mould 
round  with  your  hands,  and  put  into  wooden  trays  containing 
a  round  bed  of  flour  for  each ;  let  them  remain  in  a  warm 
place  two  hours  to  prove,  when  have  your  muffin-stove  hot ; 
have  a  round  piece  of  iron ;  place  on  the  fire  to  get  hot ;  set 
the  muffins  upon  it,  and  when  nicely  risen,  turn  them  gently 
over,  baking  them  upon  the  stove  until  sufficiently  set,  when 
they  are  done ;  they  will  take  about  ten  minutes  baking  if  the 
stove  is  at  the  proper  heat,  which  is  known  by  throwing  a  little 
flour  on  it  and  becoming  brown.  Muffins  may  also  be  made 
of  brewer's  yeast,  but  then  they  would  require  longer  proving, 
and  great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  yeast  be  not  bitter. 


BREAKFASTS.  11 


7.  To  make  Crumpets. — Mix  a  gill  of  brewer's  yeast,  free 
from  bitter,  with  two  quarts  of  water,  just  lukewarm,  to  which 
add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thinnish  batter,  and  let  it  stand 
six  hours  in  a  warm  place,  when  stir  it  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  let  it  remain  four  hours  longer ;  have  the  muffin- 
stove  hot,  upon  which  lay  a  number  of  tin  hoops,  the  size  of 
crumpets,  pour  a  small  ladleful  of  the  batter  into  each  hoop, 
and  when  the  top  is  covered  with  small  bladders,  turn  them 
quickly  over  (hoops  and  all)  with  a  large  palate  knife,  and  hi 
about  five  minutes  afterwards  they  will  be  sufficiently  baked. 


8.  Rusks. — Put  three  pounds  of  flour  upon  a  dresser,  make 
a  hole  in  the  middle,  into  which  put  two  ounces  of  German 
yeast,  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  warm  water,  mix  a  little  of  the 
flour  in,  and  leave  it  half  an  hour  in  a  warm  place  to  rise,  then 
add  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  warm  water ;  mix  the 
whole  into  a  dough,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  warm  place  until 
well  risen,  when  work  it  down  with  the  hands,  divide  it  in 
three  pieces,  each  of  which  form  into  a  long  roll  about  two 
inches  in  thickness,  place  them  upon  a  buttered  baking-sheet, 
four  inches  apart,  and  put  them  in  a  warm  place  to  prove,  oc- 
casionally moistening  the  tops  with  milk ;  bake  them  in  a  mod- 
erate oven ;  when  cold,  cut  them  in  slices  the  thickness  of  a 
penny  piece,  which  lay  upon  a  clean  baking-sheet,  and  put  into 
a  warm  oven,  when  well  browned  upon  one  side,  turn  them 
over,  put  them  again  into  the  oven  until  the  other  side  is 
browned,  when  they  are  done  and  ready  for  use. 


9.  Tops  and  Bottoms. — Make  a  dough  exactly  as  described 
in  the  last,  but  using  only  half  the  butter ;  have  a  deep- 
edged  baking-sheet  well  buttered,  and  when  the  dough  is  ready, 
turn  it  on  to  a  dresser,  well  floured ;  divide  into  small  pieces 
the  size  of  walnuts,  which  mould  into  round  balls,  and  place 
close  together  upon  the  baking-sheet ;  put  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  prove,  and  bake  well  in  a  moderate  oven ;  when  cold, 
divide  and  cut  each  one  in  halves  (making  a  top  and  bottom) 
which  brown  in  the  oven  as  directed  for  rusks. 


12  BREAKFASTS. 


10.  Buns. — Put  three  pounds  of  flour  in  an  earthen  pan, 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  in  which  put  two  ounces  of  German 
yeast,  dissolved  in  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  warm  water,  and  stir 
in  a  little  of  the  flour,  forming  a  thinnish  batter,  let  it  remain 
in  a  warm  place  nearly  an  hour,  until  well  fermented,  when  add 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  few  currants,  and  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  dissolved  in  nearly  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  mix  the  whole 
well  together,  making  a  soft  but  dry  dough ;  let  it  remain  in  a 
warm  place  until  it  rises  very  light,  when  turn  it  out  of  the 
pan  on  to  a  board ;  work  it  well  with  the  hands,  shaking  flour 
over  lightly,  then  mould  it  into  small  round  balls,  double  the 
size  of  walnuts,  which  place  upon  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  four 
inches  apart ;  moisten  the  tops  with  milk ;  put  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  prove,  not,  however,  permitting  them  to  crack,  and 
bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 


11. — Brioche  Rolls. — Put  four  pounds  of  flour  upon  a  dres- 
ser, one  pound  of  which  put  on  one  side,  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle  into  which  pour  nearly  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  warm 
water,  in  which  you  have  dissolved  an  ounce  of  German  yeast ; 
mix  it  into  a  stiff  but  delicate  paste,  which  roll  up  into  a  ball : 
cut  an  incision  across  it,  and  lay  it  in  a  basin  well  floured,  in  a 
warm  place,  until  becoming  very  light,  then  make  a  large  hole 
in  the  centre  of  the  three  pounds  of  flour,  into  which  put  half 
an  ounce  of  salt,  two  pounds  of  fresh  butter,  half  a  gill  of  water, 
and  sixteen  eggs,  mix  it  into  a  rather  softish  flexible  paste, 
which  press  out  flat,  lay  the  leaven  upon  it,  folding  it  over  and 
working  with  the  hands  until  well  amalgamated,  flour  a  clean 
cloth,  fold  the  paste  in  it  and  let  remain  all  night.  In  the 
morning  mould  them  into  small  rolls;  put  them  upon  a 
baking-sheet,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Unless  your 
breakfast  party  is  very  large,  half  the  above  quantity  would  be 
sufficient ;  but  these  rolls  being  quite  a  luxury,  I  only  make 
them  upon  very  especial  occasions. 


12.  How  to  choose  Eggs. — New-laid  eggs  should  not  be 
used  until  they  have  been  laid  about  eight  or  ten  hours,  for 
that  part  which  constitutes  the  white  is  not  properly  set  before 
that  time,  and  does  not  until  then  obtain  their  delicate  flavor ; 


BREAKFASTS.  13 


that  which  is  termed  milk  in  eggs  being,  according  to  my  opin- 
ion, very  insipid ;  but  that  entirely  depends  upon  fancy. 

Nothing  being  more  offensive  than  eggs  in  a  state  of  decom- 
position, it  is  very  important  that  every  person  should  know 
how  to  detect  them  (especially  in  the  winter),  if,  by  shaking 
them,  they  sound  hollow,  you  may  be  certain  they  are  not 
new-laid,  and  not  fit  to  be  boiled  for  breakfast :  but,  if  broken, 
they  may  prove  fit  for  any  other  culinary  purpose,  except  for 
souffles,  for  which  eggs  must  be  very  fresh.  The  safest  way  to 
try  them  is  to  hold  them  to  the  light,  forming  a  focus  with 
your  hand ;  should  the  shell  be  covered  with  small  dark  spots, 
they  are  veiy  doubtful,  and  should  be  broken  separately  in  a 
cup,  and  each  egg  smelt  previous  to  using ;  if,  however,  in 
looking  at  them,  you  see  no  transparency  in  the  shells,  you 
may  be  sure  they  are  rotten  and  only  fit  to  be  thrown  away ; 
the  most  precise  way  is,  to  look  at  them  by  the  light  of  a  can- 
dle ;  if  quite  fresh,  there  are  no  spots  upon  the  shells,  and  they 
have  a  brilliant  light  yellow  tint ;  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  it 
would  be  scarcely  excusable  to  use  any  eggs  that  are  not  quite 
fresh. 


13.  Eggs  for  Breakfast, — plain  boiled. — Put  about  a  pint 
of  water  to  boil  in  any  kind  of  small  stewpan  (or  saucepan) 
over  the  fire ;  when  boiling,  put  in  two  or  three  fresh  eggs, 
gently,  with  a  spoon,  being  particular  not  to  crack  them  or 
allow  them  to  boil  too  fast,  or  the  interior  of  the  eggs  would 
partly  escape  before  they  were  set,  giving  them  an  unsightly 
appearance,  and  entirely  prevent  their  cooking  regularly :  three 
minutes  is  sufficient  to  cook  a  full-sized  egg,  but  if  below  the 
average  size,  two  minutes  and  a  half  will  suffice. 


14.  Eggs  au  Beurre  :  a  new  method. — Let  the  eggs  boil  six 
minutes  instead  of  three,  then  take  them  out,  dip  them  for  two 
seconds  in  cold  water,  crack  and  peel  off  the  shells,  and  lay 
them  in  a  hot  plate  (they  will  remain -quite  whole  if  properly 
done),  cut  each  egg  in  halves  lengthwise,  spread  a  little  fresh 
butter  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  the  interior,  and  eat  them 
very  hot. 

Eggs  done  in  this  manner  are  delicate  and  digestible. 


14  BREAKFASTS. 


15.  To  boil  Eggs  hard. — Never  boil  eggs  for  salads,  sauces, 
or  any  other  purposes,  more  than  ten  minutes,  and  when  done 
place  them  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  for  five  minutes  to  cool : 
take  off  their  shells,  and  use  them  when  required. 

Nothing  is  more  indigestible  than  an  egg  too  hard-boiled. 


16.  Poached  Eggs. — Put  a  pint  of  water  in  a  stewpan,  with 
four  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  place 
it  over  the  fire,  and  when  boiling,  break  your  eggs  into  it  as 
near  the  surface  of  the  water  as  possible,  let  them  boil  gently 
about  three  minutes ;  have  rather  a  thin  piece  of  toast,  as  de- 
scribed (No.  l),  upon  a  dish,  take  the  eggs  out  carefully  with 
a  small  slice,  lay  the  slice  with  the  eggs  upon  a  cloth  for  a 
second  to  drain  the  water  from  them,  set  them  carefully  upon 
the  toast,  and  serve  very  hot.     If  the  eggs  are  fresh  they  will 
look  most  inviting,  but  the  way  of  breaking  and  boiling  them 
must  be  most  carefully  attended  to,  and  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  boil  too  many  together ;  if  the  yolks  separate  from  the 
white  it  may  be  presumed  that  the  egg  is  not  fresh,  but  it  may 
be  eatable,  for  the  same  thing  may  happen  through  awkward- 
ness in  poaching. 

Again,  the  toast  upon  which  they  are  served  may  be  but- 
tered either  with  plain  or  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  or  two  small 
pats  of  butter  may  be  melted,  without  boiling  it,  and  poured 
over,  or  a  little  melted  butter  sauce,  or  the  same  with  the  ad- 
dition of  a  little  maitre  d'hotel  butter  poured  over  when  just 
upon  the  point  of  boiling,  or  a  little  anchovy  butter  instead  of 
the  other ;  thus  you  may  be  able  to  indulge  in  nice  little  luxu- 
ries at  a  trifling  expense. 

17.  Toast  and  Eggs. — Break  three  eggs  into  a  small  stew- 
pan,  add  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  that  quantity  of 
pepper,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  (the  fresher  the  better), 
set  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  the  eggs  round 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  being  careful  to  keep  every  particle  in 
motion,  until  the  whole  has  become  a  smooth  and  delicate 
thickish  substance ;  have  ready  a  convenient-sized  crisp  piece 
of  toast,  pour  the  eggs  upon  it,  and  serve  immediately. 

18.  Eggs  sur  le  Plat. — Lightly  butter  a  small  oval  dish, 


BREAKFASTS.  15 


upon  which  break  two,  three,  or  more  eggs  without  breaking 
the  yolks,  season  lightly  with  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt, 
put  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  here  and  there  upon  them,  and 
then  set  the  dish  in  a  small  oven,  where  let  it  remain  until  the 
whites  become  set,  but  by  no  means  hard,  and  serve  hot ;  if 
the  oven  is  moderately  hot,  they  will  take  about  ten  minutes ; 
if  no  oven,  put  the  dish  before  the  fire,  turning  it  round  now 
and  then  until  the  eggs  are  set  regular.  This  is  a  most  ex- 
cellent dish. 

19.  Omelettes  may  also  be  served  for  breakfast  with  great 
advantage,  being  very  relishing,  especially  the  omelettes  aux 
fines  herbes,  au  lard,  and  aux  champignons,  but  as  they  are 
considered  to  belong  to  the  dinner,  they  will  be  given  in  that 
series  of  receipts. 

20.  Herring  Toast  Sandwich. — Choose  a  bloater  for  this 
purpose  not  too  dry,  which  split  in  two,  cutting  it  down  the 
back ;  lay  them  upon  a  plate  and  pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water 
over ;  let  them  soak  five  minutes,  when  lay  them  upon  a  cloth 
to  dry ;  then  broil  them  very  gradually  upon  a  gridiron ;  when 
well  done,  which  will  be  in  about  four  or  five  minutes,  have 
ready  two  thin  slices  of  toast,  made  very  crisp,  butter  them 
lightly,  then  take  away  all  the  bones  from  the  herrings,  lay  the 
fleshy  parts  equally  upon  one  piece  of  toast  and  cover  with  the 
other :  serve  very  hot. 

21.  Toast  and  Eggs  with  Herring. — Prepare  your  toast  and 
eggs  as  directed  (No.  17),  but  previous  to  pouring  the  eggs 
over,  lay  the  flesh  of  a  herring  as  directed  in  the  last,  and  pour 
the   eggs   over  that.     Herrings  upon  toast,  with  a  layer  of 
mashed  potatoes  over,  is  also  very  good. 

Dried  haddock  may  also  be  served  the  same,  as  also  may 
sardines,  but  they  being  ready-cooked,  are  laid  over  cold  with- 
out splitting  them ;  they  are  very  delicious ;  if  wanted  hot,  set 
them  a  few  minutes  before  the  fire. 


22.  Fish  for  Breakfast, — Bloated  Herrings. — They  require 
to  be  freshly  salted,  for  if  dry  they  are  quite  rank  and  unpala- 


16  BREAKFASTS. 


table ;  scrape  them  lightly  with  a  knife,  and  wipe  them  well 
with  a  cloth ;  pass  the  point  of  a  knife  down  the  back  from 
head  to  tail,  making  an  incision  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
depth ;  place  them  upon  the  gridiron  over  a  sharp  fire ;  they 
will  take  about  six  minutes  to  cook,  of  course  turning  them 
occasionally ;  when  done,  put  them  upon  a  hot  dish,  open  the 
backs,  and  place  half  a  small  pat  of  butter  in  each  ;  again  close 
them  :  cooked  this  way  they  are  delicious,  especially  if  they  are 
real  bloaters.  Another  way  is  to  cut  them  quite  open  and 
broil  them  flat  upon  the  gridiron,  and  serve  quite  plain ;  this 
way  they  are  done  much  more  quickly.  Or,  if  nice  and  fresh, 
oil  half  a  sheet  of  white  paper  for  every  fish,  in  which  fold  them 
and  broil  fifteen  minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  over 
three  or  four  times,  and  serve  in  the  papers.  Should  you  have 
any  that  have  become  dry,  soak  them  about  twenty  minutes  in 
lukewarm  water,  and  proceed  as  first  directed.  (Same  process 
will  do  for  red  herrings.) 

23.  Dried  Haddock. — A  very  excellent  thing  for  breakfast, 
but  they  never  ought  to  be  cooked  whole,  for  one  side  being 
thinner  than  the  other  is  of  course  dried  up  before  the  other  is 
much  more  than  half  done,  especially  the  larger  ones ;  the  bet- 
ter plan  is  to  cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise,  put  them  upon 
the  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  keeping  them  frequently 
turned,  and  taking  the  thinnest  half  off  first ;  the  thickest  will 
require  about  ten  minutes  to  cook  it  thoroughly ;  when  done, 
spread  a  pat  of  fresh  butter  over,  and  serve  upon  a  very  hot 
dish. 

Haddocks  may  also  be  skinned  and  broiled  in  oiled  paper, 
but  of  course  would  take  rather  more  time  in  cooking. 


24.  Whitings. — Of  all  the  modes  of  preparing  and  dressing 
whitings  for  breakfast  I  cannot  but  admire  and  prize  the  system 
pursued  by  the  Scotch,  which  renders  them  the  most  light, 
wholesome,  and  delicious  food  that  could  possibly  be  served  for 
breakfast :  their  method  is,  to  obtain  the  fish  as  fresh  as  possi- 
ble, clean  and  skin  them,  take  out  the  eyes,  cover  the  fish  over 
with  salt,  immediately  after  which  take  them  out  and  shake  off 
the  superfluous  salt,  pass  a  string  through  the  eye-holes,  and 
hang  them  up  to  dry  in  a  passage  or  some  place  where  there 


BREAKFASTS.  17 


is  a  current  of  air ;  the  next  morning  take  them  off,  just  roll 
them  lightly  in  a  little  flour,  broil  them  gently  over  a  slov  fire, 
and  serve  very  hot,  with  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter  rubbed 
over  each,  or  serve  quite  dry  if  preferable. 


25.  Slips  or  Small  Soles. — When  cleaned,  season  them 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  dip  lightly  into  flour,  and  broil 
them  slowly  over  a  moderate  fire  about  ten  minutes,  or  accord- 
ing to  the  size ;  when  done,  place  them  upon  a  hot  dish,  pour 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  over  and  serve  immediately.  They 
may  of  course  be  served  dry,  but  pouring  the  cream  over  is  a 
new  and  very  good  idea.  Nothing  but  small  white  fish  could 
be  tolerated  for  breakfast. 


26.  Sprats  when  nicely  cooked  are  very  commendable.  Dip 
them  lightly  into  flour,  and  place  them  upon  a  gridiron  over  a 
slow  fire  ;  when  about  half  done,  turn  them  ;  when  done  (which 
would  be  in  about  five  minutes  from  the  time  you  put  them  on), 
serve  dry  in  a  veiy  hot  dish. 


27.  Meat  for  Breakfast, — Sheep's  Kidneys. — Procure  as 
many  as  you  may  require  for  your  party,  about  one  each  is 
generally  sufficient;  be  sure  that  they  are  fresh,  which  any 
person  can  ascertain  by  smelling,  if  not  able  to  judge  by  their 
appearance ;  cut  them  open  very  evenly  lengthwise,  down  to 
the  root,  but  not  to  separate  them ;  then  have  some  small  iron 
or  wooden  skewers,  upon  which  thread  the  kidneys  quite  flat, 
by  running  the  skewer  twice  through  each  kidney,  that  is,  under 
the  white  part ;  season  them  rather  highly  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  place  them  upon  a  gridiron  (the  inside  downwards), 
over  a  sharp  fire ;  in  three  minutes  turn  them  over,  and  in  about 
six  they  will  be  sufficiently  done ;  then  take  them  off  the  skewers, 
place  them  in  a  very  hot  dish,  and  serve  immediately.  In  open- 
ing them  be  careful  to  cut  them  in  the  centre,  for  should  one 
half  be  thicker  than  the  other,  one  would  be  dried  before  the 
other  was  sufficiently  cooked. 


28.  Kidneys  on  Toast. — Prepare  tho  kidneys  precisely  as  in 


18  BREAKFASTS. 


the  last,  but  when  done  have  ready  a  piece  of  hot  toast,  which 
butter  lightly ;  lay  the  kidneys  upon  it ;  have  ready  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  to  which  you  have  added  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  place  a  small  piece  in  the  centre 
of  each  kidney,  and  when  melted  serve. 


29.  Kidney  bread-crumbed,  a  la  Maitre  d1 Hotel. — Prepare 
the  kidneys  as  before,  and  when  upon  the  skewer,  have  ready 
upon  a  plate  an  egg  well  beat  up  with  a  fork ;  season  the  kid- 
neys with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  into  the  egg,  then 
lightly  cover  them  with  bread-crumbs,  put  them  upon  the  grid- 
iron, which  place  over  a  moderate  fire,  broil  them  about  ten 
minutes,  turning  them  when  half  done,  have  ready  a  little  maitre 
d'hdtel  butter,  put  about  half  an  ounce  in  each  kidney,  and 
serve  immediately  upon  a  very  hot  dish ;  by  the  time  it  gets 
upon  the  table  the  butter  will  be  melted,  and  they  eat  very 
relishing ;  dressed  this  way  they  may  also  be  served  upon  toast. 


30.  Sauted  Kidneys. — Should  you  not  have  a  fire  fit  for 
broiling,  put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan  (which  of  course 
must  be  very  clean),  cut  the  kidney  in  halves  lengthwise ;  and 
when  the  butter  is  melted,  lay  them  in,  the  flat  side  downwards, 
having  previously  well  seasoned  them  with  pepper  and  salt ;  set 
the  pan  on  a  moderate  fire  three  minutes,  then  turn  them,  place 
them  again  upon  the  fire  until  done ;  when  have  ready  a  piece 
of  dry  toast,  which  place  upon  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  kidneys  with 
the  butter  and  gravy  over  and  serve  very  hot,  care  must  be  taken 
in  sauteing  that  the  butter  does  not  become  burnt. 

Another  way  is  to  sprinkle  about  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  or  onions,  over  them  whilst  being  sauted ;  this  mate- 
rially changes  the  flavor,  and  meets  the  approbation  of  many. 

For  the  cooking  of  mutton  chops,  steaks,  cutlets,  broiled  fowl, 
broiled  bones,  or  remnants  of  poultry  or  game,  I  must  refer  you 
to  where  they  are  given  as  receipts  for  the  dinner-table. 


31.  Bacon  and  Ham,  how  to  choose  both  Jit  for  broiling. — 
Ham  for  broiling  ought  not  to  be  too  old  or  too  dry,  it  would 
perhaps  eat  rank :  nothing  requires  more  care  than  broiling. 


BREAKFASTS.  19 


Either  get  a  slice  of  ham  weighing  a  quarter  of  a  pound  or  two 
ounces,  which  lay  on  your  gridiron ;  put  them  over  the  fire ;  it 
will  take  perhaps  fiv^  minutes,  if  the  fire  is  good,  and  more,  of 
course,  if  slow,  but  in  that  short  space  of  time  turn  them  three 
or  four  times,  and  it  is  done.  Proceed  the  same  if  you  want  to 
serve  it  with  poached  eggs,  but  be  careful  that  the  eggs  be  ready 
at  the  same  time  as  the  bacon  or  ham,  or  both  would  eat  badly. 
If  you  happen  to  have  a  whole  ham  by  you  for  that  purpose 
only,  begin  to  cut  the  slices  in  a  slanting  direction  and  the  same 
thickness,  and  proceed  to  the  end  of  the  ham  with  the  remainder ; 
it  will  prove  more  profitable  to  broil  with  greens,  peas,  broad 
beans,  &c.,  &c. 

To  saute  it,  put  a  little  butter  or  good  fat  in  the  pan ;  set  it 
on  the  fire  with  your  slice  in  it,  saute  very  gently,  turning  very 
often,  and  serve  it  on  very  thin  toast. 


32.  Ham  and  Eggs. — While  your  ham  is  doing,  break  two 
fresh  eggs  in  the  pan,  season  slightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  set 
it  before  the  fire  till  the  eggs  are  delicately  done,  and  slip  them 
whole  carefully  into  your  dish,  without  breaking  the  yolk. 


33.  Bacon. — The  streaky  part  of  a  thick  flank  of  bacon  is 
to  be  preferred ;  cut  nice  slices  not  above  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  take  off  the  rind,  put  to  broil  on  the  gridiron  over  a 
clear  fire,  turn  it  three  or  four  times  in  the  space  of  five 
minutes  ;  this  will  be  all  the  cooking  required :  serve  it  very 
hot.  Though  this  is  the  best  part,  the  whole  of  the  bacon  is 
still  good,  especially  if  not  rank,  which  can  be  easily  detected 
by  its  yellowish  color  :  if  too  dry  or  salt,  after  it  has  been  cut 
in  slices,  dip  it  into  a  little  vinegar  and  water  three  or  four 
times,  and  saute  as  usual,  it  will  make  it  softer  and  less  salt : 
serve  as  usual.  If  any  remain  after  a  dinner  of  boiled  bacon, 
it  is  also  very  good  broiled  or  fried  for  next  day's  breakfast. 


34.  Sausages. — Sausages  are  very  frequently  esteemed  for 
breakfast.  By  all  means,  never  use  them,  except  you  are  con- 
fident that  they  are  fresh.  The  skin  must  be  transparent,  that 
the  meat  should  be  seen  through ;  they  keep  good  two  or  three 


20  BREAKFASTS. 


days  in  a  cold  place  in  summer,  nearly  a  week  in  winter  (with 
care).  For  the  receipt  how  to  make  them  in  the  homely  way, 
see  future  letter. 


35.  Sausages,  how  to  cook  them. — Prick  them  with  a  pin 
all  round  about  twenty  times,  put  them  on  the  gridiron  over  a 
gentle  fire,  turn  three  or  four  times,  by  doing  which  you  will 
have  them  a  very  nice  yellow  color ;  dish  them,  and  serve  them 
very  hot. 


36.  Sauted  Sausages. — If  your  fire  smokes,  it  is  preferable 
to  saute  them ;  put  some  butter  in  the  pan,  with  four  sausages ; 
after  you  have  pricked  them  as  before  mentioned,  saute  gently, 
a  few  minutes  will  do  them,  turn  them  often ;  in  many  in- 
stances a  thin  slice  of  bread  sauted  in  the  fat  they  have  pro- 
duced is  a  great  improvement ;   save  the  fat,  as  it  is  always 
useful  in  a  kitchen.     In  case  you  are  in  a  hurry  to  do  them, 
throw  them  into  hot  water  for  one  minute  previously  to  their 
being  broiled  or  sauted ;  they  will  then  be  the  sooner  cooked, 
and  even  eat  rather  more  relishing  to  a  delicate  stomach,  having 
extracted  the  oil  from  the  skin ;  they  may  also  be  fried  in  the 
frying-pan. 

37.  Black  Puddings,  broiled. — Make  about  six  or  eight  in- 
cisions through  the  skin  with  a  knife,  in  a  slanting  way,  on  each 
side  of  the  pudding ;  put  it  on  the  gridiron  for  about  eight 
minutes,  on  rather  a  brisk  fire,  turn  it  four  times  in  that  space 
of  time,  and  serve  it  broiling  hot. 

I  should  recommend  those  who  are  fond  of  black  puddings 
to  partake  of  no  other  beverage  than  tea  or  coffee,  as  cocoa  or 
chocolate  would  be  a  clog  to  the  stomach.  In  France  they 
partake  of  white  wine  for  breakfast,  which  accounts  for  the 
great  consumption  of  black  pudding.  Now  really  this  is  a 
very  favorite  dish  with  epicures,  but  I  never  should  recommend 
it  to  a  delicate  stomach. 


ON  COFFEE. — Coffee,  which  has  now  come  so  generally  into  use, 
originally  came  from  Arabia,  where  it  has  been  known  from  time  im- 


BREAKFASTS.  21 


memorial,  but  was  brought  into  use  in  England  in  the  year  1653  ;  as  it 
is  not  generally  known  how  it  was  introduced,  I  will  give  you  the  ac- 
count of  it  from  "Houghton's  Collection,"  1698.  "It  appears  that  a 
Mr.  Daniel  Edwards,  an  English  Merchant  of  Smyrna,  brought  with 
him  to  this  country  a  Greek  of  the  name  of  Pasqua,  in  1652,  who 
made  his  coffee ;  this  Mr.  Edwards  married  one  Alderman  Hodges's 
daughter,  who  lived  in  Walbrook,  and  set  up  Pasqua  for  a  coffee-man 
in  a  shed  in  the  churchyard  in  St.  Michael,  Cornhill,  which  is  now  a 
scrivener's  brave-house,  when,  having  great  custom,  the  ale-sellers  peti- 
tioned the  Lord  Mayor  against  him,  as  being  no  freeman.  This  made 
Alderman  Hodges  join  his  coachman.  Bowman,  who  was  free,  as  Pasqua's 
partner ;  but  Pasqua,  for  some  misdemeanor,  was  forced  to  run  the  coun- 
try, and  Bowman,  by  his  trade  and  a  contribution  of  1000  sixpences, 
turned  the  shed  to  a  house.  Bowman's  apprentices  were  first,  John 
Painter,  then  Humphrey,  from  whose  wife  I  had  this  account."  Having 
examined  the  renter  churchwarden's  book  of  St.  Michael,  Cornhill,  I 
find  that  the  house  or  shed  Bowman  built  is  now  part  of  the  Jamaica 
Coffee-House;  it  was  rebuilt  by  Bowman,  after  the  fire,  in  1667. 

It  is  a  very  remarkable  fact  that  but  few  persons  in  England  know 
how  to  make  good  coffee,  although  so  well  supplied  with  the  first  qual- 
ity of  that  delicious  berry ;  but,  by  way  of  contrast,  I  must  say  that 
the  middle  classes  of  France  are  quite  as  ignorant  of  the  method  of 
making  tea. 

I  remember,  upon  one  occasion,  whilst  staying  at  Havre  with  Mr.  B., 
where  we  were  upon  a  visit  at  the  house  of  one  of  his  agents,  who  in- 
vited a  few  of  his  friends  to  meet  us  at  a  tea-party  d  PAnglaise,  as  they 
used  to  call  it,  about  an  hour  previous  to  tea,  and  previous  to  the  arri- 
val of  the  guests,  I  was  walking  upon  the  lawn  before  the  house,  when 
my  attention  was  attracted  by  a  cloud  of  steam  issuing  from  the  kitchen- 
window,  smelling  most  powerfully  of  tea :  my  curiosity  led  me  to  the 
kitchen,  where  I  found  the  cook  busily  engaged  making  cocoa  and  most 
delicious  coffee,  but  preparing  the  tea  in  a  ridiculous  fashion,  the  leaves 
of  which  were  in  an  awful  state  of  agitation,  attempting  as  it  were  to 
escape  from  an  earthen  pot  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  in  which  the  deli- 
cious soup  we  had  for  dinner  was  made  a  few  hours  previously.  (See 
Pot-au-Feu.) 

"  My  dear  girl,"  said  I  (in  French),  "  what  process  do  you  call  that  of 
making  tea  ?  it  never  ought  to  be  boiled." 

"  I  beg  your  pardon,  Madame,"  says  she,  "  master  and  mistress  like  it 
well  done,  and  it  will  be  another  short  half-hour  before  it  is  properly 
cooked  (ce  sera  alors  copieux)." 

"  You  are  decidedly  wrong,"  said  I,  "  and  I  shall  be  most  happy  to 
show  you  the  way  we  make  it  in  England." 

"  Yes,  I  know  what  you  mean,  Madame,"  replied  she ;  "  I  used  to 
make  it  that  way  before,  but  no  one  liked  it,  that  is,  to  boil  it  one  hour 
in  a  copper-pan  over  a  charcoal  fire."  Upon  which  I  retired,  making  a 
most  comical  grimace,  to  refrain  from  laugliing  at  her  still  more  ridicu- 
lous fashion. 

You  must,  however,  observe  that  this  occurred  nearly  twelve  years 
ago,  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  a  reform  has  taken  place  since  then  by 


22  BREAKFASTS. 


the  continual  traffic  of  the  English  through  that  part  of  the  country. 
I  must  say,  with  respect  to  ourselves,  we  do  not  make  quite  such  a 
blunder  respecting  coffee,  but  still  our  middle  classes  very  seldom 
enjoy  the  aroma  of  that  delicious  beverage,  which  should  be  made  as 
follows : 

Choose  the  coffee  of  a  very  nice  brown  color,  but  not  black  (which 
would  denote  that  it  was  burnt,  and  impart  a  bitter  flavor) ;  grind  it  at 
home  if  possible,  as  you  may  then  depend  upon  the  quality ;  if  ground 
in  any  quantity,  keep  it  in  a  jar  hermetically  sealed.  To  make  a  pint, 
put  two  ounces  into  a  stewpan,  or  small  iron  or  tin  saucepan,  which  set 
dry  upon  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  the  coffee  round  with  a  wooden 
spoon  continually  until  it  is  quite  hot  through,  but  not  in  the  least 
burnt ;  should  the  fire  be  very  fierce,  warm  it  by  degrees,  taking  it  off 
every  now  and  then  until  hot  (which  would  not  be  more  than  two  min- 
utes), when  pour  over  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  cover  close,  and  let  it 
stand  by  the  side  of  the  tire  (but  not  to  boil)  for  five  minutes,  when 
strain  it  through  a  cloth  or  a  piece  of  thick  gauze,  rinse  out  the  stew- 
pan,  pour  the  coffee  (which  will  be  quite  clear)  back  into  it,  place  it 
upon  the  fire,  and,  when  nearly  boiling,  serve  with  hot  milk  if  for 
breakfast,  but  with  a  drop  of  cold  milk  or  cream  if  for  dinner. 

To  prove  the  simplicity  of  this  mode  of  making  coffee,  I  shall  here 
give  a  repetition  of  the  receipt  as  it  actually  is : 

38.  Put  two  ounces  of  ground  coffee  into  a  stewpan,  which 
set  upon  the  fire,  stirring  the  powder  round  with  a  spoon  until 
quite  hot,  when  pour  over  a  pint  of  boiling  water ;  cover  over 
closely  for  five  minutes,  when  pass  it  through  a  cloth,  warm 
again,  and  serve.* 


*  This  entirely  new  system  of  making  coffee  has  never  yet  been  introduced  to 
the  public,  and  was  found  out  by  the  author  of  this  work  through  the  following 
circumstance:  Whilst  travelling  by  night  in  a  railway  train,  and  arriving  in  due 
time  at  the  station,  where  positively  no  less  than  five  minutes  are  allowed  to  restore 
exhausted  nature,  after  a  long  and  tedious  journey,  and  then,  by  using  a  certain 
portion  of  manual  strength,  to  push  through  the  crowd  to  get  at  what  is  called  the 
refreshment  room,  after  waiting  for  nearly  two  minutes  for  my  turn  to  be  served 
with  some  of  the  boiling  liquid  which  they  called  coffee,  being  as  bad  as  any  human 
being  could  possibly  make  it,  having  probably  waited  patiently  by  the  side  of  a 
winter's  fire  until  the  last  train  made  its  appearance,  it  tasted  anything  but  palata- 
ble ;  but  having  a  long  journey  before  me,  and  requiring  something  to  eat  and 
drink,  I  was  obliged  to  put  up  with  it;  but  before  I  could  even  partake  of  half,  or 
finish  masticating  some  stale  toast  or  over-buttered  muffin,  the  unsociable  bell  vio- 
lently rung  to  acquaint  the  passengers  that  their  appetites  were  perfectly  satisfied, 
though  that  incredulous  organ  would  not  let  us  believe  it ;  and  every  one  being 
perfectly  aware  that  railway  trains,  like  time,  wait  for  no  one,  the  hurry  of  which 
event,  though  unpleasant,  made  me  escape  the  swallowing  the  thick  part  which 
was  deposited  at  the  bottom  of  the  cup  ;  rushing  out  of  the  refreshment  room,  I 
jumped  into  the  wrong  carriage,  the  fidgetty  train  having  changed  its  place,  and 
the  time  being  too  short  to  rectify  the  mistake,  I  was  obliged  to  make  fresh  ac- 
quaintance with  my  new  compagnons  de  voyage,  who  happened  to  be  as  much 
dissatisfied  with  the  stearaing-hot  refreshment  as  myself,  who  had  patronized  the 
steaming  Mocha.  I  was  at  last  much  pleased  to  find  a  wise  man  among  my  new 
travelling  friends,  who  said,  "  I  never  travel  at  night  without  being  provided  with 
a  spirited  companion ;"  and  pulling  out  of  his  carpet-bag  a  small  bottle  and  gutta- 


BREAKFASTS.  23 


The  foregoing  proportions  would  make  coffee  good  enough  for  any 
person,  but  more  or  less  coffee  could  be  used,  if  required ;  the  cloth 
through  which  it  is  passed  should  be  immediately  washed  and  put  by 
for  the  next  occasion.  A  hundred  cups  of  coffee  could  be  made  as  here 
directed  in  half  an  hour,  by  procuring  a  pan  sufficiently  large,  and 
using  the  proper  proportions  of  coffee  and  water,  passing  it  afterwards 
through  a  large  cloth  or  jelly- bag. 


39.  Coffee,  French  fashion. — To  a  pint  of  coffee,  made  as 
before  directed,  add  a  pint  of  boiling  inilk,  warm  both  together 
until  nearly  boiling,  and  serve.     The  French  never  use  it  any 
other  way  for  breakfast. 

40.  White   Coffee,  a   new  style. — Put  two  ounces  of  un- 
ground  coffee,  slightly  roasted,  into  a  clean  stewpan,  which  set 
upon  a  moderate    fire,    slowly  warming  the  coffee  through, 
shaking  the  stewpan  round  every  half-minute ;  when  very  hot, 
which  you  will  perceive  by  the  smoke  arising  from  it,  pour  over 
half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  cover  the  stewpan  well,  and  let  it 
infuse  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  boiling-hot  milk,  pass  the  coffee  through  a  small  fine 
sieve  into  the  coffee-pot  or  jug,  and  serve  with  white  sugar- 
candy  or  crystallized  sugar ;  it  is,  as  you  will  perceive,  a  great 
novelty,  and  an  agreeable  change ;   but  if  by  neglect  you  let 
the  coffee  get  black,  or  the  least  burnt,  do  not  attempt  to  make 
use  of  it ;  it  should  only  be  sufficiently  charred  to  break  easily 
hi  a  mortar  if  required. 


percha  goblet  of  new  invention,  we  partook  of  a  drop  of  the  best  eau  de  vie  I  had 
ever  tasted,  which  produced  -on  me  the  pleasant  sensation  of  being  relieved  of  a  very 
annoying  pain.  Grateful  for  his  kindness,  and  always  desirous  to  improve  the  do- 
mestic comfort,  I  told  him,  in  making  myself  known,  that,  as  soon  as  I  arrived 
at  the  Reform  Club,  I  would  try  several  experiments  to  simplify  the  present  method 
of  making  coffee ;  and  should  I  be  successful  in  my  researches,  I  would  forward 
him  the  receipt  on  my  arrival  in  London.  I  tried  to  find  my  first  travelling  friends, 
who,  more  unfortunate  than  myself,  got  in  their  proper  place,  and,  consequently, 
did  not  meet  with  the  "spirited"  friend  1  did,  vowing  they  would  never  take  any 
more  coffee  at  night,  especially  in  a  railway  train.  Having  forwarded  the  receipt 
to  my  friend,  he,  after  having  tried  it,  wrote  me  the  following  note : 

"  MY  DEAR  SIR,  -I  have  made  an  experiment  of  your  new  receipt  for  coffee, 
which  you  have  kindly  forwarded  to  me,  and  beg  to  acquaint  you  that  I  never  re- 
collect having  tasted  better.  Yours,  &c.  W.  C." 

I  do  strongly  advise  my  readers  to  give  it  a  trial,  and  recommend  all  providers 
of  refreshment  at  railway  stations  not  to  make  the  coffee  boiling  hot,  but  to  keep 
the  cafetiere  in  a  bain-marie,  which  would  avoid  all  the  above  inconvenience,  both 
as  regards  quality  and  heat. 


24  BREAKFASTS. 


41.  Coffee,  made  with  a  filter. — To  make  a  quart ;  first 
put  a  pint  of  boiling  water  through  the  filter  to  warm  it,  which 
again  pour  away,  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground 
coffee  upon  the  filter,  upon  which  put  the  presser  lightly,  and 
the  grating,  pour  over  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  let  it  drain 
three  or  four  minutes,  then  pour  over  a  pint  and  a  half  more 
boiling  water  ;  when  well  passed  through,  pour  it  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  which  set  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  until  a  light  scum 
arises,  but  not  boiling ;  pour  it  again  through  the  filter,  and 
when  well  drained  through,  pour  into  the  coffee-pot,  and  serve 
with  hot  milk,  or  a  little  cream,  separately. 


42.  Another  way,  more  economical. — Proceed  as  in  the  last, 
but  draining  the  coffee  through  once  only,  and  serve,  after 
which  pour  another  quart  of  boiling  water  over  the  coffee- 
grounds,  which,  when  drained  through,  reserve,  and  boil  up  for 
the  next  coffee  you  make,  using  it  instead  of  water,  and  an 
ounce  less  coffee. 


TEA  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  most  useful  herbs  ever  introduced 
into  England,  which  was  in  the  year  of  the  fire  of  London,  1666  :  it 
has  replaced  an  unwholesome  and  heavy  drink  (ale)  which  used  to  be 
partaken  of  previously,  and  has  created  habits  of  sobriety.  It  is  indi- 
genous to  China,  Japan,  and  Siam,  and  consists  of  many  varieties,  the 
proper  mixing  of  which  constitutes  the  great  art  of  a  tea-dealer.  It 
is  exceedingly  useful  in  many  cases  of  sickness,  and  particularly  after 
having  partaken  of  any  liquor  to  excess,  or  after  extraordinary  fatigue. 
When  new,  it  is  a  narcotic ;  but  when  old  it  has  a  different  effect,*  and 
in  its  native  country  is  never  partaken  of  until  a  year  old,  and  not  then, 
unless  exceedingly  desiccated.  I  cannot  recommend  you  any  one  in 
particular,  as  that  depends  on  taste ;  but  this  I  advise,  that  when  you 
have  a  kind  to  your  liking,  to  keep  to  it. 

And  now,  my  dear  friend,  without  wishing  in  the  least  to  offend  you, 
or  attempting  to  aggravate  your  good  nature,  I  must  beg  to  contradict 
your  assertion  made  at  the  commencement  of  our  undertaking,  where 
you  say,  respecting  tea,  of  course  I  know  how  to  make  it ;  you  made  it 
whilst  staying  at  our  house  occasionally,  and  Mr.  B.  found  there  was  a 
great  difference  between  it  and  mine.  But  to  tell  you  the  truth  respecting 
tea,  I  have  a  little  secret  of  my  own,  being  a  discovery  which  I  made  a 

*  Some  few  years  since,  having  a  great  deal  of  writing  to  do  within  a  certain 
time,  and  which  could  not  be  done  wi'hout  employing  the  night  as  well  as  ihe  day, 
I  partook  of  weak  green  tea,  with  a  little  brandy,  sugar,  and  lemon-juice  in  ir,  as  a 
beverage,  and,  with  light  food,  I  was  enabled  to  do  with  but  eighteen  hours'  sleep 
from  8  o'clock  on  Monday  morning  to  5  o'clock  on  the  following  Sunday  morning. 


BREAKFASTS.  25 


short  time  ago  by  accident.  Whilst  in  the  act  of  making  tea,  I  had 
just  put  the  dry  tea  in  the  pot,  when  I  heard  a  fearful  scream  up-stairs 
in  the  drawing-room ;  rushing  there,  I  found  my  little  girl  had  had  a 
severe  fall  in  reaching  something  from  the  chimney-piece,  the  stool  upon 
which  she  stood  having  upset :  twenty  minutes  at  least  had  elapsed  be- 
fore I  returned  to  my  tea  (which,  being  alone,  I  was  in  no  particular 
hurry  for),  when  I  found  that  the  servant,  tliinking  there  was  water  in 
the  pot,  and  fearing  the  tea  would  be  spoiled,  put  it  into  the  oven,  which 
was  rather  hot ;  when  she  brought  it  to  me,  I  was  rather  annoyed,  when 
all  at  once  it  struck  me  that  the  leaves  being  hot  through,  the  tea  would 
not  require  so  long  to  draw ;  I  then  filled  the  teapot  with  boiling  water, 
and  in  a  minute  afterwards  had  a  most  delicious  cup  of  tea,  since  which 
I  have  adopted  the  system  upon  all  occasions,  and  am  now  having  made 
a  small  spirit-lamp  to  warm  the  pot  and  leaves,  as  the  oven  is  not  al- 
ways hot :  it  may,  however,  be  made  hot  in  front  of  the  fire,  but  not 
too  close  of  course.  I  gave  the  receipt  to  one  of  our  neighbors,  who 
actually  laughed  at  the  idea,  but  never  tried  it,  saying,  "  We  cannot 
teach  anything  to  our  grandmothers,  and  that  what  did  for  them  would 
do  for  us."  Now  what  could  you  say  to  such  people  ?  why  nothing,  but 
let  them  alone,  as  I  shall  do  for  the  future.  But  you,  my  dear,  I  know 
have  better  sense ;  proceed  as  I  have  directed,  and  you  will  find  it  a 
great  improvement.  Put  your  tea  in  the  pot  a  quarter  of  an  hour  be- 
fore ready  for  it,  warming  both  tea  and  pot,  fill  with  boiling  water,  and 
leave  it  from  three  to  five  minutes  to  draw,  when  it  is  quite  ready. 

CACAO  was  first  known  in  Europe  after  the  discovery  of  America, 
and  it  retains  its  Indian  name  ;  of  course,  it  was  first  used  in  Spain,  and 
did  not  come  into  use  in  England  until  much  later ;  and  we  find  that 
there  was  imported  into  England,  in  the  year  1694,  about  13,000  Ibs. 
weight  of  it ;  at  the  present  day  there  was,  in  1848,  410,000  Ibs.  It  is 
a  long  fruit,  about  five  to  eight  inches,  and  three  or  four  thick,  which 
contains  about  thirty  nuts  :  the  tree  grows  to  only  a  few  feet  in  height. 

In  the  course  of  my  experiments,  I  have  found  that  the  shell  is  al- 
most as  nutritious  as  the  kernel,  with  less  oily  particles  in  it,  which, 
to  many,  are  unpleasant. 

43.  Chocolate. — Scrape  two  ounces  of  the  cake,  which  put  into 
a  stew  or  saucepan,  with  a  gill  of  water,  upon  the  fire,  keeping 
it  stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  rather  thick,  when  work  it 
quickly  with  the  spoon,  stirring  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk 
by  degrees  ;  serve  very  hot,  with  sugar  separate. 


44.  Chocolate  made  in  the  Italian  method. — Procure  a  regu- 
lar chocolate-pot  with  a  muller,  the  handle  of  which  comes 
through  the  lid,  one  might  be  procured  at  any  brazier's,  put  hi 

2 


26  BREAKFASTS. 


two  ounces  of  chocolate  (scraped),  over  which  by  degrees  pour 
a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  put  on  the  lid,  with  the  muller  inside, 
which  keep  well  moving,  setting  the  pot  upon  the  fire,  and 
when  very  hot  and  frothy,  serve. 

45.  Cocoa. — Put  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  canistered  co- 
coa into  a  cup,  which  fill  by  degrees  with  boiling  milk,  stir  it 
until  dissolved,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve  ;  sugar  separately. 


LETTER  No.  III. 

Oatlands  Cottage,  Jan.  20,  1849. 

DEAR  HORTENSE, — I  have  inclosed  the  whole  of  the  receipts  which 
you  have  sent  me  for  the  breakfasts,  properly  classified,  having  omitted 
the  cold  meats  (as  you  desired  me)  from  this  series,  thinking,  as  you  do, 
they  are  more  suited  for  the  luncheon.  To  save  useless  repetition,  I 
have  placed  the  receipts  in  numbers,  by  which  references  can  be  easily 
made,  and  any  dish  appearing  in  the  dinner  or  luncheon  series,  but 
available  for  breakfast,  can  be  directly  found. 

But  one  tiling  I  remember  when  at  your  house  was,  that  when  the 
remains  of  a  joint  were  rather  large,  you  used  to  put  it  upon  a  side 
table,  and  let  any  one  help  themselves  from  it  there  ;  your  idea  being, 
I  believe,  that  very  few  persons  liked  to  have  a  large  dish  of  meat  be- 
fore their  eyes  almost  immediately  after  rising  from  their  beds,  or  at 
the  first  meal  of  the  morning.  Respecting  the  way  your  table  was  laid 
out,  to  the  best  of  my  recollection,  it  was  as  follows  : — First  the  large 
table-cloth,  over  which  was  laid  a  small  napkin  before  each  person,  with 
cups  and  saucers  for  tea  or  coffee,  at  choice,  small  plates  for  rolls,  and 
a  size  larger  for  meat,  sausages,  eggs,  <fcc.,  a  small  knife  and  fork  for  each  ; 
the  butter  in  a  pretty  freezing  butter-glass,  just  covered  with  clear 
spring  water,  and  garnished  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parslev  or  water- 
cresses  ;  the  cream  in  a  small  china  cream-jug,  and  a  larger  jug  contain- 
ing hot  milk  for  coffee  ;  orange  marmalade  in  its  original  pot,  honey- 
comb, watercresses,  and  once  a  few  nice  young  radishes,  which  were 
excellent,  although  a  little  out  of  season ;  one  day  also  dry  toast  was 
served,  another  day  buttered,  the  next  muffins,  then  crumpets,  white 
and  brown  bread,  and  small  rolls,  thus  making  a  continual  change,  but 
all  so  small  and  inviting.  I  shall  always,  when  I  have  company,  as  you 
had  then,  arrange  every  tiling  in  the  same  manner,  especially  now  that 
I  have  your  receipts  down.  But  when  you  are  alone,  you  tell  me,  you 
never  make  any  such  display,  which  of  course  would  be  ridiculous ; 
still  even  then  you  vary,  by  having  either  tea,  coffee,  or  chocolate,  which 


EARLY   LUNCHEONS.  2*7 


change  I  like  as  well  as  you.     I  eat  meat  but  occasionally,  but  Mr. 

L generally  likes  a  little  broiled  bacon,  or  boiled  egg,  things  in 

themselves  very  simple  and  pleasant  to  have  upon  the  table.     Yours, 
in  haste,  ELOISK. 


EARLY  LUNCHEONS. 

LETTER  No.  IV. 

MY  DEAR  FRIEND, — I  feel  perfectly  satisfied  with  the  manner  in  which 
you  have  classified  my  receipts  respecting  the  breakfasts,  and  must  say 
I  felt  very  much  interested  in  looking  over  them  ;  I  am  confident  they 
would  prove  interesting  and  instructive  to  any  young  housekeeper  ;  I 
hope,  therefore,  you  will  preserve  the  originals,  as  I  do  not  keep  any 
copies,  fearing  they  would  confuse  me  by  making  reference  to  them  ;  so 
that,  if  at  any  future  time  I  should  make  a  repetition  in  other  series, 
you  would  be  able  to  correct  me,  for  I  am  as  willing  as  yourself  that 
we  should  complete  our  work  by  going  through  every  series  comprising 
meals  of  the  day. 

The  next  meal,  then,  to  breakfast,  in  the  ordinary  course  of  events,  ia 
the  luncheon.  Although  it  is  a  meal  we  never  touch  ourselves,  I  am 
aware  many  small  families  make  it  a  regular  one,  so  our  little  journal 
would  not  be  complete  without  some  few  remarks,  which  I  intend  mak- 
ing as  short  and  concise  as  possible.  When  we  were  in  business,  our 
luncheons  were  comprised  of  any  cold  meats  which  were  cooked  for 
previous  dinners  ;  if  a  joint  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  meat,  it  requires  to 
be  nicely  trimmed  before  making  its  appearance  at  table,  but  reserving 
the  trimmings  for  hash,  if  of  roast  meat,  or  bubble-and-squeak,  if  salt 
beef,  which  is  an  excellent  method  of  disposing  of  the  remainder  of  a 
joint  to  advantage  ;  if  the  joint  happened  to  be  cold  veal,  I  used  to  send 
for  a  plate  of  ham  to  serve  with  it,  unless  there  was  a  piece  of  bacon 
also  left ;  if  mutton,  I  used  to  dish  up  the  leg  with  a  pretty  little  paper 
frill  upon  the  knuckle,  also  trimming  the  joint  lightly,  for  you  must  be 
aware  that,  after  four  or  five  have  dined  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  its  ap- 
pearance becomes  quite  spoiled,  and  looks  blackish  when  cold.  Pork  I 
also  serve  the  same ;  when  parsley  was  cheap,  I  always  laid  a  few 
branches  round  it,  which  used,  as  my  visitors  said,  to  make  the  meat 
look  very  refreshing  and  inviting.  Our  only  addition  was  sometimes 
the  remainder  of  game,  which  at  that  time  used  frequently  to  be  pre- 
sented to  us — pheasants,  partridges,  or  grouse  ;  as  it  would  then  have 
been  very  extravagant  to  have  purchased  them,  especially  when  they 
were  so  expensive.  As  an  accompaniment  to  the  meat,  I  always  kept 
two  different  sorts  of  mixed  pickles,  good  bread,  butter,  cheese,  and  a 
glass  of  excellent  table  ale  ;  or,  if  our  guest  was  some  bosom  friend  or 
good  customer,  a  bottle  of  sherry  (not  decantered),  never  any  port, 


28  THE    NURSERY    DINNER. 


thinking  that  more  fit  for  the  dinner-table.  Such  was  my  plan  in  the 
first  five  years  after  my  marriage :  everything  upon  our  table  was  of 
the  first  quality,  and  every  one  used  to  admire  the  neatness  with  which 
the  table  was  laid  out. 

My  method  now,  when  luncheon  is  required  (as  we  do  not  dine  until 
half-past  five  o'clock,  Mr.  B.  being  engaged  until  four  in  the  city),  I  have 
the  cloth  laid  at  twelve,  and  lunch  at  half-past ;  and  that  time  being 
just  after  the  nursery  dinner,  we  generally  have  some  sort  of  pudding 
or  tart,  made  at  the  same  time  with  theirs.  For  cold  meat,  I  always 
serve  that  up  which  has  been  left  from  a  previous  dinner,  if  any,  or 
any  remains  of  poultry,  game,  ham,  or  tongue.  When,  however,  we 
have  six  or  eight  friends  from  the  country  at  Christmas,  I  feel  proud  to 
show  them  my  style  of  doing  things  well  and  economically,  for  they  are 
very  intelligent  people,  and  can  appreciate  good  living,  though  at  home 
they  really  live  too  plain  for  their  incomes ;  but  they  say,  "  We  do  not 
understand  how  it  is  that  you  make  a  nice  little  dHi  almost  out  of 
nothing."  For  should  I  have  the  remnants  of  any  poultry  or  game  not 
very  inviting  to  the  sight,  I  generally  cut  it  up  and  show  my  cook  how 
to  hash  it  in  a  variety  of  ways ;  and  I  always  remark,  that  they  never 
partake  of  any  cold  meat  whilst  any  of  the  hash  remains.  For  the 
methods  of  making  various  hashes  of  fowl,  game,  hare,  rabbit,  beef, 
mutton,  as  also  curries,  minced  veal  and  poached  eggs,  cold  pies  of 
game,  poultry,  mutton,  beefsteak,  or  pigeon,  as  also  plain  mutton  cut- 
lets, steaks,  and  broiled  bones,  the  whole  of  which  may  be  served  for 
luncheon,  I  must  refer  you  to  the  series  of  receipts  belonging  to  the 
dinner  ;  any  of  these  articles  are  placed  in  order  upon  the  table,  with  the 
pickle-stand,  two  different  cruet-sauces,  orange  marmalade,  potatoes, 
butter,  cheese,  sherry  and  port  wines.  This  style  of  luncheon  will  no 
doubt  surprise  you,  but  I  can  assure  you  it  scarcely  increases  my  ex- 
penditure, having  the  same  number  to  provide  for  daily,  so  that  the 
luncheon  is  generally  made  up  from  the  remains  of  dinner,  and  the  re- 
mains of  luncheon  will  dine  our  three  servants  at  half-past  one.  In  the 
summer,  I  introduce  a  few  dishes  of  fruit,  and  less  meat ;  and  when 
there  are  several  ladies,  I  often  introduce  some  English-made  wine, 
which  once  I  used  to  make  myself,  but  which  I  can  now  buy  cheaper. 


THE  NURSERY  DINNER. 

LETTER  No.  V. 

DEAR  FRIEND, — Now  here  I  must  call  your  especial  attention  to  the 
way  many  people  treat  this  department  of  domestic  comfort,  which  is 
often  very  slight  and  irregular.  Now,  for  my  part,  I  have  made  quite 


THE    NURSERY    DINNER.  29 


a  study  of  it,  and  could  prove  that  health  is  always  dependent  on  the 
state  of  the  digestive  organs ;  and  that,  if  you  should  improperly  treat 
young  stomachs,  by  over  or  under  supplying  their  wants,  or  using  them 
to  ill-cooked  food,  you  not  only  destroy  the  functionary  coating  of  the 
stomach,  but  also  impede  the  development  of  the  intellect.  It  is,  then, 
as  much  a  science  to  manage  the  food  of  children,  as  to  cater  for  the 
palate  of  the  gourmet,  and  I  shall  always  consider  that  good  food  is  to 
the  body  what  education  is  to  the  mind. 

My  plan  of  managing  the  nursery  meals  is  as  follows : — At  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  which  was  my  usual  time,  I  used  myself  to  pre- 
pare that  glutinous  food  upon  which  our  ancestors  and  race  were  first 
reared,  rather  unclassically  denominated  pap.  My  method  was  very 
simple : 

46. — Put  two  ounces  of  rusk,  or  tops  and  bottoms,  in  a 
small  saucepan,  with  just  sufficient  water  to  moisten  them ;  set 
the  saucepan  upon  the  fire  until  its  contents  are  thoroughly 
warmed  through ;  pour  a  little  of  the  water  away,  if  too  thin, 
pressing  the  rusk  with  a  spoon ;  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
brown  sugar,  and  beat  the  whole  with  a  spoon  until  quite  a 
pulp ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

I  have  seen  some  poor  people  in  the  country  make  it  with  a  stale  piece 
of  bread,  previously  well  dried  and  lightly  toasted  before  the  fire,  and 
you  could  scarcely  tell  the  difference  from  rusks ;  and  you  must  ob- 
serve, that  people  in  a  country  village  cannot  always  supply  themselves 
with  everything  in  the  way  of  luxury ;  but  look  at  the  greater  part  of 
those  country  urchins, — are  they  not  a  real  picture  of  health  ?  for,  after 
all,  nothing  is  more  advantageous  to  a  delicate  child  than  country  air 
and  country  food.  When  Mr.  B.  and  myself  were  staying  at  Boulogne 
for  a  few  weeks,  I  was  astonished  to  hear  that  everybody  used  to  put 
their  children  out  to  nurse.  I  was  so  surprised,  that  I  made  every  inquiry, 
and  found  it  literally  true,  that  even  respectable  tradespeople  sent 
their  children  a  mile  or  two  in  the  country,  some  to  the  houses  of  very 
poor  people  :  I  cannot  say  that  I  approve  of  such  a  style  of  bringing 
up  infants,  but  even  there  they  seem  as  healthy  and  as  joyful  as  pos- 
sible. I  also  found  there  something  to  be  learned,  and  that  was,  how  to 
make  French  pap,  which  I  think  very  nutritious,  but  which  I  considered 
at  the  time  rather  heavy  for  our  climate ;  but  having  afterwards  made 
a  trial  of  it  upon  our  little  Henry,  I  found  him  doing  so  extremely  well, 
that  I  continued  feeding  him  upon  it  for  nearly  eight  months,  until  he 
was  old  enough  to  eat  other  food.  The  following  is  the  receipt : 

47. — Put  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  into  a  pap  saucepan,  to 
which  add  by  degrees  two  gills  of  milk,  mixing  it  into  a  very 
smooth  batter  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  place  the  saucepan  upon 
the  fire,  let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred  the  whole  time, 


30  THE    NURSERY    DINNER. 

or  it  is  liable  to  burn  or  become  brown,  then  add  about  half 
an  ounce  of  sugar  and  a  little  salt,  put  it  into  a  basin,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use.  A  little  butter  is  also  very  good  in  it. 

You  will  observe,  that  it  is  more  difficult  and  troublesome  to  make 
than  our  pap ;  but  when  used  to  it,  you  will  expend  no  more  time  over 
it ;  and,  as  the  French  people  say,  cooking  is  all  pleasure  and  no  trouble. 
But  what  convinces  me  that  it  is  more  palatable  and  nutritious  is,  that 
I  have  seen  a  very  robust  man  make  a  hearty  dinner  of  two  plates  of  it 
by  introducing  bread  in  it.  I  have  no  doubt  that  our  own  hasty  pudding 
was  taken  from  it,  for  the  use  of  children  of  three  or  four  years  old, 
being  thought  too  heavy  for  infants.  These  long  details  may  appear 
rather  insignificant  and  tedious  to  you,  but  I  leave  them  to  your  good 
judgment,  begging  of  you  to  curtail  my  remarks  should  you  think  pro- 
per ;  but,  although  you  may  consider  that  every  person  is  acquainted 
with  these  domestic  habits,  you  would  find  upon  inquiry  that  very  many 
persons  neglect  them  almost  entirely.  Having  written  thus  much 
upon  the  food  of  infants,  we  must  next  consider  the  proper  diet  for 
children  of  twelve  months  old,  commencing  with  bread  and  milk. 

48. — For  which,  cut  about  two  ounces  of  any  white  bread 
into  small  thin  slices,  which  put  into  a  small  basin  or  a  large 
breakfast  cup,  in  a  little  saucepan  (only  used  for  that  purpose) 
have  half  a  pint  of  milk,  which,  when  upon  the  point  of  boil- 
ing, pour  over  the  bread ;  cover  the  cup  over  five  minutes,  and 
it  is  ready  for  use. 

I  much  prefer  this  method  to  that  of  boiling  the  bread  and  milk  to- 
gether. In  first  commencing  to  feed  a  child  upon  the  above,  I  always 
added  a  little  sugar,  which  I  withdrew  by  degrees,  as  I  do  not  like  to 
accustom  children  to  too  much  sweets,  as  it  inclines  them  when  a  little 
older  to  be  always  wanting  or  eating  sweet  stuff,  which  often  spoils  the 
best  set  of  teeth ;  and  here  let  me  remark,  that  the  finest  fortune  you 
can  give  to  your  children  is  health,  and  as  loving  mothers,  whilst  we 
have  them  under  our  control,  it  is  our  duty  to  study  their  little  com- 
forts, and  direct  their  first  steps  in  life  in  the  road  of  happiness. 

49.  Porridge. — When  children  are  delicate,  porridge  is  often 
preferable  to  bread  and  milk.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
Scotch  grits  or  oatmeal  in  the  milk  saucepan,  which  moisten 
with  half  a  pint  of  milk  ;  let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  keeping  well 
stirred,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  sugar,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

When  my  children  were  about  eighteen  months  or  two  years  old,  I 
used  to  give  them  a  little  tender  meat,  such  as  boiled  mutton,  and  broth, 


THE    NURSEIIY    DINNER.  31 


but  in  very  small  quantities,  keeping  still  for  the  general  food  the  bread 
and  milk  and  porridge  ;  but  now  they  are  old  enough  to  eat  anything 
wholesome  (one  being  nine  and  the  other  ten  years  of  age),  their  meals 
are  composed  thus : 

50. — Bread  and  milk  for  breakfast  at  eight ;  the  dinner  at 
one,  which  was  composed  as  follows  throughout  the  week : 
roast  mutton  and  apple  pudding,  roast  beef  and  currant  pud- 
ding, baked  apples ;  boiled  mutton  with  turnips,  after  which 
rice  or  vermicelli  pudding ;  occasionally  a  little  salt  beef,  with 
suet  dumplings,  plain  and  with  currants  in  them,  or  pease  pud- 
ding ;  or  if  unwell,  a  little  veal  or  chicken-broth,  or  beef-tea 
(the  receipts  for  which  will  be  found  in  the  series  entitled  Com- 
forts for  Invalids). 

When  in  business,  the  first  three  years  we  could  not  afford  to  keep 
a  nursery,  in  fact,  we  had  no  room  to  spare ;  the  children  then  used  to 
dine  with  us  at  one,  but  at  a  side-table  with  their  nurse. 

51. — They  then  had  a  little  plain  meat,  cut  small  in 
their  plates,  with  potatoes,  pieces  of  bread,  and  gravy,  after 
which,  three  times  a  week,  plain  rice,  bread,  or  other  plain 
pudding,  or  rhubarb  or  apple  tart ;  and,  at  five  o'clock,  their 
bread  and  milk  again,  previous  to  going  to  bed. 

But  if  for  people  who  could  afford  it,  I  should  recommend  the  follow- 
ing diet-table,  for  nurserymaid  and  all : 

52. — First,  about  two  pounds  of  mutton  well-cooked,  but 
with  the  real  gravy  of  the  meat  in  it,  which  will  require  about 
one  hour  before  a  moderate  fire,  dredge  it  ten  minutes  before 
being  done ;  when  taken  up  and  in  the  dish,  sprinkle  a  little 
salt  over  the  meat,  and  pour  over  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of 
hot  water  to  make  a  little  light  gravy. 

. 

Many  persons  will,  I  am  aware,  quite  disapprove  of  this  system  of 
washing  the  meat :  they  would  serve  it  as  if  it  were  for  full-grown  people, 
but  you  well  know  what  would  do  for  children  as  well  as  I — plain,  sim- 
ple, and  wholesome  food ;  I  always  carried  out  this  system,  and  I  now 
make  my  cook  do  the  same. 

53. — Then  the  next  day  I  would  give  them  a  small  piece  of 
mutton,  plain  boiled,  with  turnips,  and  apple  tart ;  or  a  few 
slices  of  roast  beef,  or  a  small  piece  roasted  on  purpose,  after 


32  THE    NURSERY    DINNER. 

which  a  very  plain  currant  pudding ;  or,  occasionally,  a  little 
pickled  pork,  with  pease  pudding,  or  roast  pork,  with  baked 
apples,  and  now  and  then  a  little  salt  beef,  but  very  well 
boiled,  with  suet  dumplings,  and  occasionally,  for  change,  either 
bread,  vermicelli,  or  tapioca  puddings ;  in*  case  of  illness,  and 
with  the  approbation  of  the  doctor,  veal,  mutton,  or  chicken- 
broth,  sago,  gruel,  panada,  <kc.,  for  which  refer  to  the  receipts 
for  invalids. 

Now  the  more  I  write  the  more  I  am  convinced  that,  for  the  method 
of  preparing  certain  articles  for  the  children's  dinners,  we  must  refer  to 
the  kitchen  department  of  receipts  and  receipts  for  invalids,  especially 
as  regards  broth,  meat,  puddings,  <fec.,  or  otherwise  we  should  have  so 
many  repetitions ;  so  that  it  would  be  better,  upon  the  completion  of 
the  journal,  to  make  references,  either  by  numbers  of  receipt  or  page ; 
it  will  be  more  inteUigible,  and  less  confused. 

Many  people  would,  perhaps,  imagine  that  there  is  too  much  variety 
of  food  for  children ;  but  it  is  quite  the  contrary,  for  change  of  food  is 
to  the  stomach  what  change  of  air  is  to  the  general  health,  but,  of  course, 
with  children,  those  changes  must  be  effected  with  judgment,  and  their 
food  administered  in  smaller  quantities ;  but  you  must  observe  when 
children  are  well  brought  up  with  regard  to  their  meals,  they  possess 
extraordinary  organs  of  digestion,  the  proof  of  which  is  that  they  require 
feeding  oftener  than  a  full-grown  person,  and  never  appear  to  be  tired 
of  eating,  thus,  of  course,  they  do  not  require  such  quantities  at  a  time. 
Having  here  terminated  my  remarks  upon  the  Nursery,  I  shall  leave 
this  scene  of  romp  and  confusion,  to  walk  on  tip-toe  to  the  sick-room 
door,  and  carefully  enter,  without  noise,  into  this  mournful  abode  of 
human  suffering  and  captivity,  in  hopes  that,  by  watching  over  their 
diet,  my  small  efforts  may  improve  their  comforts,  which,  by  being 
properly  managed,  may  assist  in  their  restoration  to  health.  I  shall, 
therefore,  proceed  to  give  some  receipts,  entitled  Comforts  for  Invalids. 

Nothing  is  to  me  more  painful  than  to  see  any  food  ill-prepared  for 
sick  people,  where  the  sense  of  taste  is  partially  gone ;  everything  ordered 
by  the  doctors  as  food,  should  be  cooked  in  the  greatest  perfection,  espe- 
cially as  everything  they  require  is  so  very  simple  and  easily  done,  that 
it  is  unpardonable  to  do  it  badly,  although  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  it  is 
too  often  the  case,  even  in  many  of  our  first  hospitals  and  other  public 
establishments,  where  they  have  provisions  in  abundance,  and  of  the 
first  quality. 

Perhaps  you  may  fancy  I  am  too  severe  upon  that  delicate  subject, 
but  I  can  assure  you  that  I  have  for  years  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting 
some  of  these  institutions  for  the  sick,  and  can  therefore  speak  with  con- 
fidence. I  have  grieved  often  to  see  it,  and  have  wished  that  they 
would  foUow  a  system  I  would  lay  down,  but  there  are  some  people 
who  would  not  change  their  style,  however  bad,  for  a  better  one,  for 
the  world. 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  33 


Now  I  must  here  claim  all  jour  intelligence,  for  pointing  out  those 
receipts  the  accomplishing  of  which  is  most  plain,  and  will  insure  success 
to  those  who  may  try  to  do  them,  and  cause  them  to  persuade  others 
to  follow  their  example.  I  therefore  inclose  the  following.  Yours,  &c. 

HORTENSE. 


COMFORTS  FOR  INVALIDS. 

54.  Meat  for  Invalids. — The  best  meat  as  food  for  invalids 
is,  in  fact,  that  which  is  principally  used,  mutton  and  beef,  lamb, 
if  not  too  young  (sweetbreads,  I  consider,  ought  oftener  to  be 
introduced),  and  calves'  feet  or  head,  scalded  and  boiled  until 
tender,  are  very  nutritious ;  chickens,  pigeons,  partridges,  are 
also  very  inviting.  All  the  above-mentioned  articles  are  easy 
of  digestion,  excepting  perhaps  the  beef,  which  may  require  to 
be  gently  stewed  until  tender,  if  for  a  delicate  stomach  ju&t 
ordered  to  take  meat  after  a  serious  fit  of  illness. 


55.  Plain  Mutton  Broth  for  Invalids. — Get  one  pound  of 
scrag  of  mutton,  break  the  bone  with  a  chopper,  without  sepa- 
rating the  meat,  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  three  pints  of 
water  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt ;  boil  gently  two  hours,  care- 
fully removing  all  the  scum  and  fat,  which  is  easily  done  by 
allowing  it  to  simmer  slowly  by  the  side  of  the  fire ;  it  will  be 
by  that  time  reduced  to  about  one  quart,  and  is  then  ready  to 
serve.  This  broth  must  not  be  expected  to  drink  very  palata- 
ble, being  deprived  of  vegetables  and  seasoning,  being  in  fact 
more  like  a  beverage  than  a  soup :  at  the  commencement  of 
convalescence  more  strength  may  be  given  if  ordered  by  the 
doctor,  by  reducing  the  original  quantity  to  one  pint.  This 
broth  is  often  administered  by  a  spoonful  only  at  a  time. 


56.  Seasoned  Mutton  Broth. — Put  the  same  quantity  of 
mutton  and  water  into  your  stewpan,  add  double  the  quantity 
of  salt,  and  a  quarter  ditto  brown  sugar,  quarter  of  a  middle- 
sized  onion,  very  little  celery,  and  one  ounce  of  turnip ;  set  it 
2* 


34  COMFORTS    FOR   INVALIDS. 

upon  the  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  boil  draw  it  to  the  side ; 
let  it  simmer  gently  two  hours ;  skim  off  all  the  scum  and  fat, 
and  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  use  it  when  required.  When 
finished,  there  ought  to  remain  about  a  quart  of  broth ;  but  if 
by  neglect  it  has  boiled  too  fast,  add  more  water,  and  set  to 
boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer.  If  the  patient  is  getting 
better,  his  medical  man  will  probably  order  him  to  eat  a  little 
of  the  meat,  or  even  turnips,  in  which  case  serve  them  on  a 
plate  separately ;  should  the  meat  not  be  required  by  the  patient, 
it  is  very  excellent  for  a  healthy  person,  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
onions  or  caper  sauce,  or  even  plain.  If  pearl-barley  is  required 
to  be  taken  with  the  broth,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  it  in  with  the 
water  when  you  first  put  it  upon  the  fire,  the  whole  will  then 
be  done  together ;  if  the  barley  is  to  be  eaten  by  the  patient, 
take  out  the  meat  and  vegetables,  and  skim  off  every  spot  of 
grease ;  but  if  the  barley  is  not  required,  pass  the  broth,  as  be- 
fore, through  a  sieve. 

57.  Mutton  Broth  (with  variations).  With  Vermicelli. — 
Having  made  your  broth,  and  passed  it  through  a  sieve,  as  be- 
fore, put  the  meat  and  vegetables  upon  a  plate,  and  the  broth 
back  into  the  same  stewpan ;  when  boiling,  if  about  a  quart, 
add  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vermicelli,  depending  upon  the 
strength  of  the  patient's  stomach ;  ten  minutes'  boiling  will  be 
sufficient  to  cook  vermicelli. 


58.  With  Rice. — One  spoonful  of  best  rice  in  the  stewpan, 
with  mutton  and  water  the  same  as  the  barley,  as  it  is  better 
for  the  rice  to  be  in  pulp  than  underdone. 


59.  With  Semoulina. — Semoulina  is  very  delicate  and  glu- 
tinous, and  I  am  quite  confident  that  the  faculty  would  approve 
of  it  after  a  trial  or  two  ;  it  is  good  in  any  kind  of  broth  or  milk 
for  invalids,  of  very  easy  digestion,  and  having  also  the  advantage 
of  being  tolerably  cheap  and  quickly  cooked ;  proceed  as  directed 
for  vermicelli. 

60.  With  Arrow-root. — After   having   passed  your  broth, 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  35 


place  it  again  into  the  stewpan  to  boil ;  when  boiling,  put  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  arrow-root  into  a  cup,  which  mix  smoothly  with 
a  gill  of  cold  broth,  or  half  ditto  of  water ;  then  pour  it  into 
your  boiling  broth,  which  keep  stirring  with  a  spoon ;  let  it 
simmer  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


61.  Veal  Broth  (French  method}. — The  following  is  much 
recommended  by  French  physicians : — Put  one  pound  of  veal 
from  knuckle,  with  but  very  little  of  the  bone,  into  a  stewpan  with 
three  pints  of  water  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  place  it  over  the 
fire  to  boil ;  when  boiling,  take  off  all  the  scum ;  then  add  a 
small  cabbage-lettuce  and  a  few  sprigs  of  chervil,  if  handy ;  let 
simmer  slowly  for  two  hours,  it  will  then  be  reduced  to  about 
a  quart ;  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  letting  the  meat  drain,  and  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 


62.  Another  way,  more  palatable. — Take  the  same  quantity 
of  veal  as  before,  which  cut  into  small  dice  (as  you  should  cut 
all  meat  if  possible),  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  with  a  small  pat 
of  butter,  half  an  onion,  about  the  same  quantity  of  carrot  and 
turnip,  a  little  celery,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  set  the  stew- 
pan upon  the  fire,  keeping  the  contents  stirred,  for  about  ten 
minutes,  until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a 
whitish  glaze,  then  add  three  pints  of  hot  water ;  let  the  whole 
simmer  one  hour  at  the  corner  of  the  fire,  skim  well,  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  use  when,  required.  This  broth  is  most 
palatable  and  very  digestible,  but  of  course  only  to  be  given  to 
the  convalescent ;  it  may  be  served  with  vermicelli,  rice,  arrow- 
root, and  semoulina,  as  directed  for  mutton  broth. 


63.  Another  very  Refreshing  and  Strengthening  Veal 
Broth. — Put  two  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  calf's  foot  split,  and  the  bone  taken  out  and  chopped 
up,  add  three  quarts  of  water,  a  good-sized  onion,  one  leek,  a 
piece  of  parsnip,  and  two  salt-spoonfuls  of  salt  (if  allowed  by 
the  doctor,  if  not,  the  salt  must  be  omitted),  set  it  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  beginning  to  boil,  skim,  and  let  it  simmer  at  the 
corner  of  the  fire  four  hours ;  twenty  minutes  before  passing, 


36  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 


again  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  add  ten  large  leaves  of  sorrel,  or 
twenty  small,  one  cabbage-lettuce,  and  a  handful  of  chervil, 
and  when  done  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  when  it  is  ready  for 
use.  This  broth  is  very  cooling  and  nutritious  when  taken 
cold,  as  it  is  then  quite  a  jelly ;  vermicelli,  rice,  &c.,  may  be 
added  when  served  hot,  and  the  veal  and  calf's  foot  is  very 
excellent,  eaten  with  parsley-and-butter  or  sharp  sauce ;  but 
should  the  patient  require  any,  it  must  be  quite  plain,  with  a 
little  of  the  broth  and  only  the  gelatinous  part  of  the  foot. 

The  above  also  makes  an  excellent  dinner  soup,  and  if  put  in 
a  cool  place,  would  keep  a  week  in  winter  and  three  days  in 
summer. 

64.  Soyer's  new  way  of  making  Beef  Tea. — Cut  a  pound 
of  solid  beef  into  very  small  dice,  which  put  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  small  pat  of  butter,  a  clove,  two  button  onions,  and  a 
salt-spoonful  of  salt,  stir  the  meat  round  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  until  it  produces  a  thin  gravy,  then  add  a  quart  of 
water,  and  let  it  simmer  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  for  half  an  hour, 
skimming  off  every  particle  of  fat,  Avhen  done  pass  through  a 
sieve.  I  have  always  had  a  great  objection  to  passing  broth 
through  a  cloth,  as  it  frequently  quite  spoils  its  flavor. 

The  same,  if  wanted  plain,  is  done  by  merely  omitting  the 
vegetables,  salt,  and  clove ;  the  butter  cannot  be  objectionable, 
as  it  is  taken  out  in  skimming,  pearl-barley,  vermicelli,  rice,  &c., 
may  be  served  in  it  if  required. 


65.  Real  Essence  of  Beef. — Take  one  pound  of  solid  beef 
from  the  rump,  a  steak  would  be  the  best,  cut  it  into  thin  slices, 
which  lay  upon  a  thin  trencher,  and  scrape  quite  fine  with  a 
large  and  sharp  knife  (as  quickly  as  possible,  or  the  juice  of  the 
meat  would  partially  soak  into  the  wood,  your  meat  thus  losing 
much  of  its  strengthening  quality),  when  like  sausage-meat  put 
it  into  a  stewpan  or  saucepan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  five  or  ten 
minutes,  until  thoroughly  warmed  through,  then  add  a  pint  of 
water,  cover  the  stewpan  as  tightly  as  possible,  and  let  it  remain 
close  to  the  fire  or  in  a  warm  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  pressing  the  meat  with  a  spoon  to  ex- 
tract all  the  essence. 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  37 


I  beg  to  observe  that  here  you  have  the  real  juice  of  the 
meat ;  but  if  wanted  stronger,  put  only  half  instead  of  one  pint 
of  water ;  seasoning  may  be  introduced,  that  is,  a  little  salt, 
sugar,  and  cloves,  but  no  vegetables,  as  they  would  not  have 
time  to  cook,  thus  leaving  a  raw,  bad  flavor. 


66.  Pure  Osmazome,  or  Essence  of  Meat. — Take  two  pounds 
of  the  flesh  of  any  animal  or  bird  (the  older  the  better  for  ob- 
taining the  true  flavor),  as  free  from  sinew  as  possible,  and 
mince  it  well ;  place  it  in  a  Florence  oil-flask,  and  cork  it ;  put 
this  in  a  saucepan  filled  with  cold  water,  leaving  the  neck  un- 
covered ;  place  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  water  arrives 
at  160°  Fahr.,  at  which  temperature  it  must  remain  for  twenty 
minutes ;  then  remove  it,  and  strain  the  contents  through  a 
tammie,  pressing  the  meat  gently  with  a  spoon ;  should  it  re- 
quire to  be  kept  for  some  time,  put  the  liquor  in  a  basin  or  cup, 
which  place  in  the  saucepan ;  subject  it  to  a  boiling  heat  until 
it  is  reduced  to  a  consistency  like  treacle,  removing  the  scum ; 
this,  when  cold,  will  become  solid,  and  will  keep  for  any  num- 
ber of  years.     Osmazome  is  known  under  various  names  in 
different  cookery  books,  as  "  fumet,  essence,"  <fec.,  but  which  are 
obtained  in  a  different  way,  which  causes  the  gelatine  to  be  pro- 
duced with  the  osmazome ;  but,  by  the  above  plan,  it  is  left  in 
the  meat,  and  the  osmazome,  with  a  small  quantity  of  the  al- 
bumen, is  extracted,  and  the  albumen  is  afterwards  removed  as 
the  scum. 

67.  Chicken  Broth. — Put  half  a  raw  chicken  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  quart  of  water,  a  little  leek  and  celery,  with  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  (if  allowed),  set 
the  stewpan  upon  the  fire ;  when  boiling,  skim  well,  and  let 
simmer  upon  the  corner  for  one  hour ;  pass  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

The  chicken  would  eat  very  nice  with  a  little  maltre  d'h6tel 
sauce,  or  any  other  from  that  series  would  do  for  the  parlor, 
that  is,  when  the  patient  is  not  allowed  to  eat  it. 

For  a  change,  chicken-broth  in  the  following  way  is  very  nu- 
tritious ;  that  is,  after  having  passed  the  broth  through  a  sieve, 
pour  it  back  again  into  the  stewpan,  which  place  over  the  fire ; 
moisten  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  in  a  cup  with  a  little  cold  broth 


38  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 

or  water,  and  when  quite  smooth  pour  it  into  the  broth  whilst 
boiling,  stirring  quickly,  let  simmer  a  quarter  of  -an  hour,  and 
it  is  ready.  Mutton  or  veal-broth  may  also  be  varied  the 
same. 

68.  Eel  Broth,  very  strengthening. — Take  a  small  eel,  which 
skin  as  described,  and  wash  well,  then  cut  into  slices,  which  put 
into  a  small  saucepan,  just  covered  with  water,  add  a  little  salt, 
a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  button  onions,  and  a  clove ;  let  it 
simmer  very  gently  until  the  eels  are  tender,  when  skim  off  all 
the  fat,  pass  the  broth  through  a  very  fine  sieve  into  a  cup :  it 
is  then  ready  to  serve  when  required,  but  a  spoonful  only  should 
be  taken  at  a  time. 

A  patient  is  sometimes  allowed  to  take  part  of  the  fish, 
which  being  so  much  boiled,  constitutes  a  lighter  food  than  eels 
are  in  general ;  a  little  melted  butter  and  parsley  might  be 
served  with  them. 


69.  Lait  de  Poule,  French  remedy  for  colds. — May  be  made 
from  any  of  the  foregoing  broths,  and  for  colds  is  excellent. 
Break  a  fresh  egg,  separate  the  white  from  the  yolk,  put  the 
yolk  in  a  basin,  with  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  good  cream  or  milk, 
which  mix  well  \vith  a  spoon,  have  half  a  pint  of  broth  boiling, 
which  pour  gradually  over  the  egg  and  cream,  mixing  it  (as 
you  pour  the  broth)  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  it  is  then  ready,  and 
ought  to  be  taken  when  going  to  bed,  if  only  for  a  cold. 


•  70.  Sweet  Lait  de  Poule.— This  is  also  reckoned  very  good 
for  a  cold.  Put  two  yolks  of  eggs  into  a  cup,  with  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  pounded  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water, 
or  the  eighth  part  of  the  rind  of  a  fresh  lemon  grated,  beat  them 
well  together  for  ten  minutes,  then  pour  boiling  water  gradually 
over,  keeping  it  stirred,  until  the  cup  is  nearly  full.  Drink  this 
very  hot  when  in  bed ;  I  can  strongly  recommend  it  from  ex- 
perience. 

71.  Riz  au  Lait,  or  Rice  Milk,  is  a  very  favorite  food,  or 
soup ;  in  France  many  persons  make  their  suppers  from  it,  even 
when  in  a  state  of  perfect  health.  Proceed  as  follows  :  wash  a 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  39 

tablespoonful  of  good  rice  in  water,  which  drain  and  put  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  milk,  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling, 
place  it  at  the  corner  to  simmer,  until  the  rice  is  quite  tender, 
but  for  invalids,  must  be  in  a  pulp ;  sweeten  with  a  little  sugar, 
and  it  is  quite  ready. 

72.  Rice  Milk  seasoned. — Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  but 
when  the  rice  is  quite  tender  add  an  ounce  of  butter,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  a  little  salt,  stir  well  together,  and  it  is 
then  ready ;  this  must  neither  be  too  thick  nor  too  thin,  but 
about  the  thickness  of  well-made  gruel ;  in  France  they  always 
add  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water,  but  that  depends  upon 
taste.  These  two  last  are  very  nutritious,  especially  after  a  long 
illness. 


73.  Vermicelli  au  Lait. — Boil  a  pint  of  milk,  and  when  boil- 
ing add  sufficient  vermicelli  to  make  it  about  the  thickness  of 
the  last  article ;  it  may  be  served  quite  plain  if  required,  or 
seasoned  as  for  the  riz  au  lait,  but  omitting  the  orange-flower 
water. 


74.  Semoulina  au  Lait. — Boil  a  pint  of  milk,  and  when 
boiling  add  a  tablespoonful  of  semoulina,  stirring  it  gently,  to 
prevent  its  becoming  lumpy ;  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes,  and 
serve  either  plain  or  seasoned,  as  for  the  riz  au  lait. 


75.  Tapioca  au  Lait. — Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  but  it 
will  require  rather  longer  to  simmer  before  the  tapioca  is  tender ; 
and,  by  way  of  change,  add  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  or  a  glass 
of  white  wine,  if  allowed  by  the  doctor,  or  season  as  for  the  last. 


76.  Arrow-root. — -Put  two  teaspoonfuls  of  arrow-root,  which 
mix  gradually  with  enough  water  or  milk,  stirring  it  with  a 
spoon,  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  and  if  made  with  milk,  add 
only  a  little  butter,  sugar,  and  salt,  or  serve  plain ;  but  if  made 
with  water,  add  the  eighth  part  of  the  rind  of  a  fresh  lemon  to 
boil  with  it;  when  done  add  a  glass  of  port  or  sherry,  sugar,  a 
littlle  sat,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter,  unless  prohibited. 


40  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 


77.  Gruel. —  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oatmeal  or  prepared 
groats  into  a  stewpan,  and  by  degrees  add  a  pint  of  water, 
mixing  smoothly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  place  it  upon  the  fire, 
keeping  it  well  stirred,  until  it  has  boiled  a  couple  of  minutes, 
when  pour  it  into  a  basin,  add  half  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  brown  sugar,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  the  latter 
especially,  if  for  a  cold  in  the  chest,  even  more  than  that  quan- 
tity, if  the  stomach  is  strong  enough  to  bear  it. 

Gruel  when  properly  made  ought  to  adhere  rather  thickly  to 
the  back  of  the  spoon,  but  not  to  be  pasty  ;  it  ought,  likewise, 
to  be  eaten  directly  it  is  made,  or  it  becomes  thick  and  unpleas- 
ant to  eat ;  if  required  plain,  omit  all  the  seasoning ;  it  might 
also  be  made  of  milk. 


78.  Gruel  from  Scotch  Groats. — Proceed  as  above,  but  add- 
ing rather  more  water,  and  boiling  a  few  minutes  longer ;  many 
people  prefer  eating  it  with  the  rough  groats  in  it,  but  if  objec- 
tionable, place  a  small  clean  sieve  over  the  basin  you  intend 
serving  it  in,  pass  the  gruel  through,  and  season  as  in  the  last. 
Some  people  add  spirits  or  wine ;  but  that  I  should  never  re- 
commend any  one  to  do,  unless  by  the  doctors  orders,  and  that 
would  be  but  very  seldom,  especially  as  regards  spirits. 


79.  Sago  Gruel. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sago  into  a 
small  saucepan,  which  moisten  gradually  with  a  pint  of  cold 
water,  set  it  over  a  slow  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  becoming 
rather  thickish  and  clear,  similar  to  a  jelly,  then  add  a  little 
grated  nutmeg  and  sugar  according  to  taste,  and  serve ;  half  a 
pat  of  butter  might  also  be  added  with  the  sugar,  or  it  might 
be  made  with  new  milk,  and  a  little  salt  added,  and  a  glass  of 
wine  in  either  case  makes  it  more  palatable. 


80.  Arrow-root,  Transparent  Jelly. — Put  a  good  teaspoonful 
of  arrow-root  into  a  basin,  which  mix  smoothly  with  two  spoon- 
fuls of  water,  then  add  enough  boiling  water  to  make  it  about 
the  consistency  of  starch,  stirring  all  the  time,  pour  it  into  a 
stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  has  boiled  two  minutes ; 
add  a  little  cream,  a  small  glass  of  wine,  and  a  little  sugar,  and 
serve. 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  41 


81.  French  Panada,  for  aged  people,  invalids,  and  children. 
— Break  a  stale  penny  roll  into  a  saucepan,  in  which  pour  just 
sufficient  water  to  cover  the  bread,  stir  well  over  the  fire,  allow- 
ing it  to  boil  five  minutes,  then  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  mix  them,  and  take  from  the 
fire ;  have  one  yolk  of  egg  well  beaten,  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk  (if  handy)  or  water,  which  pour  into  the  panada,  stirring 
very  quickly  for  half  a  minute,  it  is  then  ready  to  pour  into  a 
basin  and  serve.     Any  common  bread  would  do  for  panada, 
but  would  not  eat  so  light  as  when  made  from  a  roll. 

I  knew  a  very  aged  lady  in  France  who  accustomed  herself 
to  eat  a  basin  of  panada  every  night,  a  few  minutes  previous  to 
going  to  bed,  for  a  period  of  eighteen  years,  which  will  prove 
that,  although  very  substantial  in  appearance,  it  must  be  very 
easily  digested. 

Panada  ought  to  be  rather  thicker  than  gruel,  and  may  like- 
wise be  made  of  milk,  but  water  is  preferable,  especially  when 
for  bilious  people. 

82.  Barley  Water. — Put  half  a  gallon  of  water  into  a  very 
clean  saucepan,  with  two  ounces  of  clean  (but  unwashed)  pearl 
barley,  when  boiling,  carefully  skim  it  with  a  tablespoon,  and 
add  half  the  rind  of  a  small  lemon,  let  it  boil  until  the  barley 
is  quite  tender ;  sweeten  with  half  an  ounce  of  white  sugar, 
strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  use  when  required.     The 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  in  some  cases  may  also  be  introduced. 


83.  Rice  Water. — Put  a  quart  of  water  to  boil  in  a  sauce- 
pan, with  a  handful  of  clean  rice  (but  not  washed),  place  it  upon 
the  fire,  and  let  boil  gently  until  the  rice  is  quite  in  a  pulp,  then 
pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  jug,  pressing  as  much  of  the 
rice  through  as  possible,  and  when  getting  cold,  sweeten  mod- 
erately with  honey,  which  will  make  it  very  palatable  ;  it 
should  be  drunk  lukewarm. 


84.  A  New  Drink. — Put  half  a  gallon  of  water  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  boiling,  have  ready  four  pippin  apples  (quite 
ripe),  cut  each  apple  into  eight  slices,  without  peeling  them, 
throw  them  into  the  water,  which  keep  boiling  until  the  apples 


42  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 

are  quite  soft,  pass  the  water  through  a  sieve,  pressing  the 
apples  gently  against  the  side  of  the  sieve,  but  not  rubbing 
them  through,  add  enough  honey  to  make  it  a  little  sweetish, 
and  drink  lukewarm. 

Two  apples  thrown  into  the  rice-water  and  boiled  the  same 
would  be  a  great  improvement.  People  in  good  health  would 
much  enjoy  such  drink,  during  the  summer  especially ;  as  also 
would  poor  people  in  the  countiy,  where  apples  are  plentiful. 
Any  kind  of  apples  would  suit,  and  brown  sugar  instead  of 
honey,  or  even  no  sugar  at  all. 


85.  Cooling  Drink. — Bake  four  or  six  apples,  without  peel- 
ing them ;  when  done  and  quite  hot,  put  them  into,  a  jug,  and 
pour  over  three  pints  of  boiling  water  ;  cover  the  jug  over  with 
paper,  and  when  cold  it  is  ready  for  use  ;  a  spoonful  of  honey 
or  brown  sugar  added  makes  it  very  palatable. 


86.  Almond  Water. — Put  five  ounces  of  sweet  and  two  of 
bitter  almonds  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  pint  of  hot  water,  set 
them  upon  the  fire,  and,  when  boiling,  strain  them  upon  a 
sieve,  take  off  their  skins,  and  set  them  in  spring  water  to  cool, 
then  dry  them  upon  a  cloth,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  until  very 
fine,  adding  a  few  drops  of  water  occasionally,  to  prevent  their 
becoming  oily,  set  a  pint  of  syrup  to  boil,  when  throw  in  the 
mashed  almonds ;   boil  together  a  minute,  then  set  it  at  the 
corner  to  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  it  is  then  ready  to 
pass  through  a  fine  sieve  for  use.     When  required,  add  any 
quantity  of  cold  water  you  please  to  make  it  palatable,  accord- 
ing to  taste  or  direction. 

87.  Barley  Lemonade. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
into  a  small  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  which  boil 
about  ten  minutes,  or  until  forming  a  thickish  syrup  ;  then  add 
the  rind  of  a  fresh  lemon  and  the  pulp  of  two  ;  let  it  boil  two 
minutes  longer,  when  add  two  quarts  of  barley-water,  from 
which  you  have  omitted  the  sugar  and  lemon  ;  boil  five  min- 
utes longer,  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  jug,  which  cover 
with  paper,  making  a  hole  in  the  centre  to  let  the  heat  through ; 
when  cold,  it  is  ready  for  use  ;  if  put  cold  into  a  bottle  and  well 
corked  down,  it  would  keep  good  several  days. 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  43 


Barley  Orangeade  is  made  the  same,  substituting  the  rind 
and  juice  of  oranges  ;  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  in  addition,  is  an 
improvement,  when  taken  as  a  refreshing  beverage. 


88.  A  Refreshing  Beverage. — Slice  two  oranges  and  one 
lemon,  which  put  into  a  jug,  with  two  ounces  of  sugarcandy, 
over  which  pour  one  quart  of  boiling  water  ;  stir  it  occasionally 
until  cold,  when  drink  it  a  little  at  a  time,  as  often  as  ordered 
by  the  medical  attendant.  This  drink  is  also  very  excellent  for 
persons  in  health,  especially  in  warm  weather. 


89.  Raspberry  Vinegar  Beverage. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  raspberry  vinegar  into  a  cup,  over  which  pour  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  ;  when  cold,  use  it  as  you  may  be  instructed  or 
when  necessary ;  any  kind  of  fruit  syrup  would  answer  the 
same  purpose,  and  be  equally  as  good,  that  is,  currants,  cher- 
ries, strawberries,  mulberries,  <fcc. 


90.  A  very  Strengthening  Drink. — Put  a  teacupful  of  pearl- 
barley  into  a  saucepan,  with  three  pints  of  cold  water,  the  rind 
of  a  lemon  and  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon  ;  boil  the  whole  very 
gently  until  the  barley  becomes  tender,  when  strain  it  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  sweeten  with  a  spoonful  of  treacle  :  if  treacle 
should  be  objectionable,  honey  or  sugar  will  do. 


91.  fresh  Fruit  Water. — Fresh  fruits,  when  in  season,  are 
very  preferable  to  syrups,  which  are  but  seldom  well  made,  ex- 
cept at  some  of  the  first  confectioners  or  Italian  warehouses. 

Pick  a  bottle  of  fresh  raspberries  or  strawberries,  whichever 
you  may  require,  rub  them  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  which 
mix  well  with  half  a  pint  of  syrup,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a 
quart  of  spring  water ;  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and 
put  it  by  in  a  jug  for  use ;  both  the  syrup  and  water  may 
either  be  increased  or  diminished  according  to  taste. 

Red  or  white  currant  waters  are  made  precisely  the  same, 
only  omitting  the  lemon,  the  currants  themselves  being  suffi- 
ciently sharp. 


44  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 


92.  Cherry  Draught. — Choose  a  pound  of  good  fleshy  cher- 
ries, from  which  take  the  stalk  and  stones,  have  a  pint  of  syrup 
boiling,  into  which  throw  them,  to  boil  as  fast  as  possible 
for  ten  minutes,  then  take  them  from  the  fire,  and  add  a  good 
wine-glassful  of  Madeira  or  sherry,  and  a  quart  of  boiling  water  ; 
put  it  into  a  jug,  with  a  cup  over ;  when  cold,  pass  it  through 
a  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  for  use  :  the  wine  may  be  omitted  if  not 
required.  A  drink  of  the  same  description  may  likewise  be 
made  from  mulberries,  but  then  a  little  lemon-juice  must  be 
added. 


93.  Arrow-root  Water. — Put  half  a  gallon  of  water  to  boil 
with  two  apples,  the  same  as  in  No.  84,  with  the  addition  of  a 
stick  of  cinnamon ;  let  the  whole  boil  half  an  hour,  then  mix 
two  large  spoonfuls  of  arrow-root  with  half  a  pint  of  cold 
water,  very  smoothly,  and  pour  it  into  the  boiling  water  :  let 
the  whole  boil  ten  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve  ;  when 
cold,  it  will  drink  light  and  thickish. 


94.  French  Herb  Broth. — This  is  a  very  favorite  beverage 
in  France,  as  well  with  people  in  a  state  of  health  as  with  in- 
valids, especially  in  the  spring,  when  the  herbs  are  young  and 
green.  Put  a  quart  of  water  to  boil,  but  have  previously  pre- 
pared about  forty  leaves  of  sorrel,  a  cabbage-lettuce,  and  ten 
sprigs  of  chervil,  the  whole  well  washed  ;  when  the  water  is 
boiling,  throw  in  the  above,  with  the  addition  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  half  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter  ;  cover  your  saucepan 
close,  and  let  them  simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  pass  it  through 
a  sieve  or  colander.  This  is  to  be  drunk  cold,  especially  in  the 
spring  of  the  year,  after  the  change  from  winter.  I  generally 
drink  about  a  quart  per  day  for  a  week,  at  that  time  ;  but  if 
for  sick  people,  it  must  be  made  less  strong  of  herbs,  and  taken 
a  little  warm.  To  prove  that  it  is  wholesome,  we  have  only  to 
refer  to  the  instinct  which  teaches  dogs  to  eat  grass  at  that 
season  of  the  year.  I  do  not  pretend  to  say  that  it  would  suit 
persons  in  every  malady,  because  the  doctors  are  to  decide  upon 
the  food  and  beverage  of  their  patients,  and  study  its  changes 
as  well  as  change  their  medicines. 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  45 


95.  Dry  Plum,  Beverage. — Put  a  quart  of  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan upon  the  fire,  and,  when  boiling,  throw  in  twelve  fresh  dry 
French  plums,  and  let  them  boil  twenty  minutes,   then  pour 
them  in  a  basin  with  the  liquor  to  cool ;  when  cold,  take  out 
the  plums,  which  put  into  a  basin ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
brown  sugar  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  port  wine.     They 
are  excellent  to  eat,  and  the  liquor  to  drink. 

96.  Figs  and  Apple  Beverage. — Have  two  quarts  of  water 
boiling,  into  which  throw  six  fresh  dry  figs,  previously  opened, 
and  two  apples,  previously  cut  into  six  or  eight  pieces  each ; 
let  the  whole  boil  together  twenty  minutes,  then  pour  them 
together  into  a  basin  to  cool,  then  pass  through  a  sieve  ;  dram 
the  figs,  which  will  be  also  good  to  eat. 


97.  Stewed  Plums. — Put  twelve  French  plums  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  a  gill  of  water,  a  little 
cinnamon,  and  some  thin  rind  of  a  lemon ;  let  them  stew 
twenty  minutes,  then  pour  them  in  a  basin  until  cold,  take 
them  from  their  syrup  and  eat  them  dry.  They  are  some- 
times stewed  in  wine  and  water,  either  port,  sherry,  or  claret. 


98.  Baked  Apples  are  very  much  used  by  invalids  :  have  a 
common  yellow  dish,  such  as  you  frequently  see  in  farmhouses, 
into  which  put  about  twelve  apples  (previously  well  wiped)  and 
about  a  gill  of  water,  and  put  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an 
hour,  or  rather  more  should  the  apples  be  large ;  when  well 
done,  take  them  out  to  get  cold  upon  the  dish,  and  eat  them 
cold,  either  with  powdered  lump  or  moist  sugar. 

99.  Cooling  Lemonade. — Put  a  quart  of  water  in  a  stew- 
pan  to  boil,  into  which  put  two  moist  dried  figs,  each  split  in 
two ;  let  it  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  have  ready  the  peel 
of  a  lemon,  taken  off  rather  thickly,  and  the  half  of  the  lemon 
cut  in  thin  slices ;  throw  them  into  the  stewpan  and  boil  two 
minutes  longer ;  then  pour  it  into  a  jug,  which  cover  closely 
with  paper  until  cold,  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve :  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  honey,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


46  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 


100.  Imperial,  a  cooling  Drink  for  the  Spring. — Two 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  two  lemons,  juice  and  peel,  four 
ounces  of  sugar ;  place  in  a  stone  jug,  and  pour  about  six 
quarts  of  boiling  water ;  allow  it  to  get  cold,  and  bottle  for  use  ; 
or,  instead  of  sugar,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  raspberry  vine- 
gar, and  six  ounces  of  honey.  This  is  excellent  aerated-like 
soda  water.  Essence  of  ratafia,  or  any  other,  may  be  added, 
with  about  half  a  pint  of  pure  spirit  at  proof,  for  those  accus- 
tomed to  spirits. 


101.  Orangeade. — Proceed  as  for  lemonade,  but  using  the 
whole  of  the  orange,  a  little  of  the  peel  included,  sweetening 
with  sugar  candy,  and  adding  a  teaspoonful  of  arrow-root 
mixed  with  a  little  cold  water,  which  pour  into  the  boiling 
liquid  at  the  same  time  you  put  in  the  orange.  The  arrow- 
root makes  it  very  delicate. 


102.  Toast  and  Water. — The  ease  and  simplicity  of  making 
this  popular  drink  is  probably  the  cause  of  its  not  being  well 
made  one  time  in  ten,  that  is,  in  private  families  ;  the  bread  is 
too  much  or  too  little  done,  or  there  is  too  much  or  not  half 
enough  water,  or  more  or  less  bread  ;  I  venture  to  say  that  if 
any  person  would  take  the  trouble  to  go  from  house  to  house, 
where  there  are  patients,  and  taste  toast  and  water  at  each, 
they  would  not  find  two  of  the  same  flavor,  and  perhaps  not 
any  of  it  properly  made.  To  make  it  to  perfection,  proceed  as 
follows  :  cut  a  piece  of  crusty  bread,  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
in  weight,  place  it  upon  a  toasting-fork,  and  hold  it  about  six 
inches  from  the  fire  ;  turn  it  often,  and  keep  moving  it  gently 
until  of  a  light  yellow  color,  then  place  it  nearer  the  fire,  and 
when  of  a  good  brown  chocolate  color,  put  it  into  a  jug,  and 
pour  three  pints  of  boiling  water  over  ;  cover  the  jug  until  cold, 
then  strain  it  into  a  clean  jug,  and  it  is  ready  for  use  :  never 
leave  the  toast  in  it,  for  in  summer  it  would  cause  fermentation 
in  a  short  time.  I  would  almost  venture  that  such  toast  and 
water  as  I  have  described  would  keep  good  a  considerable  time 
in  bottles. 

The  idea  that  bread  must  be  burnt  black  to  make  toast  and 
water  is  quite  a  popular  delusion,  for  nothing  nourishing  could 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  47 


come  from  it :  if  your  house  was  burnt  to  ashes,  it  would  be 
valueless  ;  and  the  same  with  burnt  bread,  which  merely  makes 
the  water  black,  but  the  nutriment  of  the  bread,  intended  to 
relieve  the  chest,  has  evaporated  in  smoke  by  being  burnt. 


PUDDINGS  FOR  INVALIDS. 

103.  Apple  and  Rice. — Boil  half  an  ounce  of  Carolina  rice 
in  a  gill  of  milk  until  very  tender,  then  add  a  very  small  piece 
of  butter,  sugar,  a  little  cinnamon,  and  a  grain  of  salt ;  then 
peel,  core,  and  slice  a  middling-sized  apple,  which  put  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  little  sugar,  and  a  drop 
of  water,  and  stew  it  until  tender ;  when  done,  put  the  apple 
in  a  small  tart-dish,  mix  an  egg  with  the  rice,  which  pour  over 
the  apple,  and  bake  ten  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven ;  it  may 
also  be  made  quite  plain,  if  preferred. 

104.  Custard  Pudding. — Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  with  a  small 
piece  of  lemon-peel  and  half  a  bay -leaf,  for  three  minutes ;  then 
pour  these  on  to  three  eggs,  mix  it  with  one  ounce  of  sugar 
well  together,  and  pour  it  into  a  buttered  mould :  steam  it 
twenty-five  minutes  in  a  stewpan  with  some  water  (see  No.  112), 
turn  out  on  a  plate  and  serve. 


105.  Rice  Puddings. — Wash  well  two  ounces  of  rice  in  some 
water,  strain,  then  put  it  into  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  milk, 
with  a  small  piece  of  lemon-peel,  cinnamon,  and  half  a  bay-leaf, 
tied  together ;  let  it  boil  gently,  stirring  it  occasionally,  until 
quite  tender ;  then  put  to  it  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  two  eggs ;  pour  it  into  a 
buttered  tail-dish,  and  bake  it  half  an  hour. 


106.  Macaroni  Pudding. — Blanch  two  ounces  of  Naples 
macaroni  in  some  water  for  eight  or  ten  minutes ;  strain  it, 
add  it  to  one  pint  of  boiling  milk,  in  which  you  have  previously 
boiled  a  piece  of  lemon-peel,  cinnamon,  and  one  ounce  of  but- 
ter ;  when  the  macaroni  is  quite  tender,  add  two  eggs  and 
sugar  enough  to  sweeten  it :  steam  it  one  hour  in  a  stewpan,  in 
a  buttered  tart-dish. 


48  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 


10*7.  Vermicelli  Pudding. — Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  with  a 
piece  of  lemon-peel,  half  a  bay-leaf,  and  a  piece  of  cinnamon, 
then  add  one  ounce  of  vermicelli ;  when  reduced  to  half,  add 
two  eggs,  and  a  little  sugar  ;  pour  these  in  a  buttered  mould, 
and  steam  it  half  an  hour. 


108.  Tapioca  Pudding. — Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  with  a  piece 
of  lemon-peel  and  a  little  cinnamon  ;  then  add  two  ounces  of 
tapioca ;  reduce  to  half ;  add  two  eggs,  and  one  ounce  of  but- 
ter ;  pour  these  in  a  buttered  mould,  and  steam  half  an  hour. 


109.  Bread  Pudding. — Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  with  a  piece 
of  cinnamon  and  lemon-peel ;  pour  it  on  two  ounces  of  bread- 
crumbs ;  then  add  two  eggs,  half  an  ounce  of  currants,  and  a 
little  sugar  :  steam  it  in  a  buttered  mould  for  one  hour. 


110.  Cabinet  Pudding. — Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  with  a  piece 
of  lemon-peel,  pour  it  on  one  ounce  of  sponge  biscuit,  let  it 
soak  half  an  hour,  then  add  three  eggs,  half  an  ounce  of  cur- 
rants, and  very  little  sugar :  steam  it  in  a  buttered  mould,  lined 
with  raisins,  one  hour* 

111.  Bread  and  Butter  Pudding. — Butter  a  tart-dish  well 
and  sprinkle  some  currants  all    round  it,  then  lay  in  a  few 
slices  of  bread  and  butter  ;  boil  one  pint  of  milk,  pour  it  on  two 
eggs  well  whipped,  and  then  on  the  bread  and  butter  ;  bake  it 
in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 


112.  A  Small  Bread  Pudding. — Cut  an  ounce  of  the 
crumb  of  bread  into  thin  slices,  with  the  least  piece  of  butter 
spread  over  each,  which  place  in  a  small  tart-dish  ;  then  break 
an  egg  into  a  cup  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  a  little  pow- 
dered cinnamon,  beat  well ;  then  add  about  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  boiled  milk,  mix  well  together,  pour  over  the  bread,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven,  or  steam  it,  if  preferred,  by  standing  the 
dish  in  a  stewpan  containing  about  half  a  pint  of  water,  that 
is,  the  water  should  be  about  half  way  up  to  the  rim  of  the 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  49 

disli ;  set  the  stewpan  (covered  close)  upon  the  fire,  and  let  it 
slowly  boil  about  ten  minutes  or  longer,  until  the  pudding  is 
properly  set,  then  take  the  cover  from  the  stewpan,  which  let 
remain  a  few  minutes  longer  upon  the  fire ;  then  take  out  the 
pudding,  wipe  the  dish,  and  serve. 


Fish  for  Invalids. — Slips,  soles,  flounders,  whitings,  and 
smelts  are  the  lightest  of  any  fish,  and  upon  that  account  more 
to  be  recommended  to  invalids  in  a  state  of  convalescence. 


113.  Whiting,  plain  lotted. — Put  two  quarts  of  water  into 
a  small  fish  kettle,  with  about  an  ounce  of  salt ;  when  boiling, 
put  in  the  whiting,  draw  the  kettle  to  the  corner  of  the  fire  to 
keep  it  just  simmering,  and  no  more  ;  a  whiting  of  the  ordi- 
nary size  would  take  about  ten  minutes ;  when  done,  which 
you  can  tell  by  trying  with  the  point  of  a  knife  whether  it 
leaves  the  bone  easily,  take  it  up  carefully,  and  dish  it  upon  a 
clean  napkin,  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  round  ;  although  the 
parsley  is  of  course  useless  as  far  as  the  stomach  is  concerned, 
nothing  can  be  more  pleasing  to  an  invalid  than  to  see  his 
meals  carefully  cooked  and  invitingly  served. 

At  any  time  I  prefer  a  whiting  with  the  skin  on,  whether 
boiled,  grilled,  or  fried  ;  a  little  butter  just  melted,  with  a  pinch 
of  salt,  and  the  least  drop  of  lemon-juice  added,  is  very  excel- 
lent to  eat  as  sauce  with  them.  Should  you  purchase  your  fish 
in  the  country,  it  will  of  course  require  cleaning,  by  opening 
the  belly  and  pulling  out  the  gills  and  interior ;  but  never 
wash  these  fish,  merely  wipe  them  with  a  cloth. 


114.  Broiled  Whiting. — Having  cleaned  your  whiting,  and 
wiped  it  gently  dry  with  a  cloth,  flour  it  all  over  lightly,  rub 
the  gridiron  over  with  a  little  oil,  lay  the  whiting  upon  it,  and 
put  it  over  a  clear  fire,  but  not  too  close,  turn  it  carefully  three 
or  four  times,  and  when  it  feels  firm  to  the  touch  of  the  finger, 
it  is  done  ;  if  a  large  one,  it  will  take  about  twenty  minutes  ; 
sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  if  required,  and  serve  with,  plain 
melted  butter,  with  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovies  in  it. 
3 


50  COMFORTS    FOR   INVALIDS. 

115.  Sauted  Whitings. — Put  some  fat  or  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan,  which  place  over  a  clear  but  moderate  fire ;  have  your 
whiting  floured  as  in  the  last,  and  when  the  fat  or  butter  is 
melted,  lay  it  in  the  pan  ;  let  it  saute  slowly  until  it  is  done, 
which  try  as  in  either  of  the  last  two ;  when  done,  drain  it 
upon  a  cloth,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  and  serve. 

If  fried,  enveloped  in  bread-crumbs,  dip  the  fish  lightly  into 
flour,  then  egg  it  all  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  dip  in  some 
very  fine  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  it  rather  longer,  but  do  not 
let  the  fat  get  black,  or  it  will  give  the  fish  a  black,  heavy  ap- 
pearance, and  quite  spoil  the  flavor.  Fish  fried  in  oil  would 
have  a  much  better  appearance  than  when  fried  in  fat,  but  prob- 
ably would  be  objectionable  to  a  weak  stomach.  They  ought 
to  be  completely  covered  with  the  fat. 


116.  Smelts  are  very  delicate  fish,  but  ought  never  to  be 
plain  boiled ;  being  confident  of  the  good  use  they  may  be 
turned  to  as  a  diet  for  the  sick,  I  shall  here  give  two  receipts 
for  dressing  them  very  plainly,  yet  still  very  palatable.     Choose 
them  rather  large, — if  so,  two  would  be  sufficient  for  a  meal, — 
having  previously  drawn  and  cleansed  them,  put  a  gill  of  water 
into  a  small  stewpan,  with  a  little  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  four  small  sprigs  of  parsley ;  when  boiling 
lay  in  your  smelts,  which  let  simmer  five  minutes,  or  more,  if 
larger  than  usual,  keeping  the  stewpan  well  covered ;  then  take 
them  out  carefully,  lay  them  upon  a  dish,  and  pour  the  broth 
over ;  both  fish  and  broth  are  excellent.     They  may  be  cooked 
the  same  way  in  the  oven. 

Another  way  is  to  add  a  little  arrow-root,  mixed  with  a  drop 
of  cold  water,  to  the  above,  when  half  cooked ;  it  makes  it 
very  soothing  to  the  chest.  Be  extremely  careful  not  to  let  the 
fish  or  liquor  burn  at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  ;  there  should 
be  about  three  parts  of  the  quantity  of  liquor  when  cooked  as 
you  first  put  in  water,  allowing  one  quarter  to  evaporate  whilst 
boiling. 

117.  Broiled  Smelts. — When  cleansed  and  wiped  dry  with 
a  cloth,  dip  them  lightly  into  flour,  and  put  them  upon  a  grid- 
iron over  a  slow  fire,  for  five  or  six  minutes,  turning  them  care- 
fully when  half  done ;  serve  plain,  or  with  a  little  sauce,  if  al- 


COMFORTS    FOR   INVALIDS.  51 

lowed,  as  many  patients  are  forbidden  moist  food.  I  can  highly 
recommend  any  kind  of  white  fish  cooked  in  this  manner  ;  and 
it  is  well  known  that  nothing  in  the  way  of  food  is  more  di- 
gestible than  fish. 

Water  souchet  of  flounders,  soles,  and  slips  may  also  be 
served  to  invalids,  by  proceeding  the  same  as  above. 


Meat,  Game,  and  Poultry,  of  every  kind,  for  invalids,  ought 
to  be  served  as  free  from  fat  as  possible. 


118.  A  Mutton  Chop. — Choose  one  from  a  lean  loin  of  mut- 
ton, or  if  one  in  the  house  rather  fat  cut  the  greater  part  of  it 
off;  your  chop  should  be  about  six  ounces  in  weight,  and  cut 
off  an  equal  thickness ;  lay  it  upon  a  table,  and  beat  it  lightly 
with  the  flat  part  of  your  chopper,  then  lay  it  upon  a  gridiron, 
over  a  good  clear  fire ;  season  with  a  little  salt,  if  allowed,  and 
turn  it  four  or  five  times  whilst  broiling ;  it  will  require  about 
eight  minutes  over  a  good  fire,  but  of  course  longer  over  an 
indifferent  one ;  if  by  pressing  it  with  a  knife  it  feels  firm,  it  is 
done ;  serve  upon  a  very  hot  plate,  for  if  partly  cold,  the  least 
fat  would  immediately  set,  and  be  very  unpleasant,  especially  to 
a  person  unwell. 

119.  Plain  Mutton  Cutlet,  from  the  Neck. — An  invalid  will 
frequently  be  tired  of  a  mutton  chop ;  and  for  my  own  part  I 
must  say  a  cutlet  is  far  superior  in  flavor,  and  has  a  much 
neater  appearance ;  cut  off  a  rib  from  the  neck,  of  the  same 
thickness  as  a  mutton  chop ;  cut  away  the  skin  upon  each  side 
of  the  bone,   to   the  chine,  which  chop  off;    trim  away  the 
greater  part  of  the  fat,  cut  a  piece  at  the  end  of  the  bone, 
which  scrape  off,  leaving  about  half  an  inch  of  the  bone  bare ; 
then  beat  it  lightly  with  the  flat  of  the  chopper ;  season ;  broil 
and  serve  very  hot,  as  in  the  last. 


120.  Stewed  Chop  or  Cutlet. — Put  it  into  a  stewpan  or 
small  saucepan,  with  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  little  salt  and 
sugar ;  let  it  stew  as  gently  as  possible  from  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  two  hours,  skim  off  all  the  scum  and  fat,  and  the  patient 


52  COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS. 


may  partake  of  both  chop  and  broth ;  if  seasoning  is  allowed, 
put  a  teaspoonful  of  pearl-barley,  with  a  little  celery,  leek,  and 
turnip,  cut  up  very  small,  into  the  stewpan  with  the  water, 
when  you  first  put  the  chop  on,  and  proceed  as  before ;  serve 
the  broth  in  a  soup  basin,  with  the  chop  in  it ;  should  the  meat 
happen  to  be  tough,  let  it  stew  rather  longer ;  the  broth  should 
be  reduced«to  about  half  a  pint. 

121.  Beef,  Rump  Steak, — The  tenderest  part  of  the  rump 
should  be  selected,  about  half  a  pound,  not  cut  too  thick,  and 
very  even ;  place  it  upon  your  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire, 
turning  it  frequently ;  when  done,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over ; 
ten  minutes  would  cook  it  thoroughly,  but  if  wanted  under- 
done, as  in  many  cases  where  the  patient  only  sucks  the  gravy, 
less  time  must  be  allowed. 


122.  Stewed  Beef. — Put  the  same  quantity  of  beef  as  in  the 
last  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  quart  of  water,  which  place  over 
the  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  boil,  well  skim,  then  add  a  lit- 
tle celery,  turnip,  and  carrot,  the  whole  weighing  about  an 
ounce,  and  cut  very  small,  let  stew  gently  about  three  hours,  by 
which  time  the  broth  will  be  reduced  to  one  quarter ;  skim  all 
the  fat  off  carefully;  serve  the  meat  upon  a  plate,  and  the 
broth  in  a  basin. 


123.  Lamb  Chops  or  Cutlets. — Proceed  as  just  described 
for  mutton,  but  being  more  delicate,  they  will  require  but  lit- 
tle more  than  half  the  time  to  cook. 


124.  Lambs'  Feet  are  very  nutritious;  purchase  them  ready 
cleaned ;  lay  them  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water,  by  doing  which 
you  will  be  able  to  draw  out  the  leg-bone  with  facility ;  then 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  (two  would  be  sufficient),  and  pour  over 
a  pint  of  water  with  which  you  have  mixed  smoothly  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  place  them 
upon  the  fire,  stirring  frequently  until  boiling,  when  add  a 
small  onion,  with  a  celery,  parsley,  and  parsnip ;  boil  gently  for 
two  hours,  and  when  done,  serve  plain  upon  a  plate,  or  with  a 


COMFORTS    FOR    INVALIDS.  53 

little  melted  butter  and  parsley  poured  over.  By  using  a  little 
white  broth  from  any  meat  instead  of  water,  you  make  a  deli- 
cious soft  soup,  which  may  be  partaken  of  freely. 

Calves'  feet  are  dressed  in  the  same  manner,  but  using  a 
double  proportion  of  everything,  and  stewing  them  double  the 
time ;  they  are  served  precisely  the  same. 


POULTRY  FOR  INVALIDS. 

125.  Roast  Chicken. — Procure  a  nice  plump  chicken,  which 
draw  and  truss,  and  cut  the  sinews ;  pass  the  spit  through  un- 
der the  skewer  as  usual,  and  set  it  down  before  a  clear  fire ; 
after  being  there  five  minutes,  have  ready  a  pat  of  butter,  in 
the  bowl  of  a  wooden  spoon,  with  which  rub  the  chicken  all 
over ;  if  the  fire  is  too  fierce,  put  it  back  a  short  distance,  that 
it  may  roast  of  a  yellowish-brown  color ;  when  a  light  smoke 
arises  from  the  chicken,  which  will  be  in  about  twenty  minutes 
from  the  time  it  was  put  down,  it  is  done  ;  but  to  be  quite  sure 
whether  a  bird  is  done,  the  better  way  is  to  press  it  lightly, 
with  your  finger  and  thumb ;  should  it  feel  quite  set,  it  is  suffi- 
ciently cooked. 

126.  Soiled  Chicken. — Put  a  quart  of  water  to  boil  in  a 
saucepan,  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  ounces  of  butter ; 
when  boiling,  lay  in  the  chicken,  which  keep  gently  simmering 
for  twenty  minutes,  when  it  will  be  done. 

By  adding  a  few  vegetables  of  each  description  to  the  water, 
and  straining  it  when  you  take  out  the  chicken,  you  have  a  very 
excellent  broth  either  for  the  sick  or  healthy,  especially  after 
skimming  off  the  fat  you  add  a  little  vermicelli,  which  must  be 
boiled  in  it  five  minutes. 

As  it  is  very  improbable  that  a  sick  person  would  eat  the 
whole  of  a  chicken  at  once,  I  have  annexed  a  few  receipts,  by 
which  a  chicken  would  suffice  for  four  meals. 

First,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  rice  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a 
pint  of  light  broth ;  let  it  boil  gently  until  the  rice  is  in  pulp, 
then  put  in  the  wing  or  leg  of  the  previously-cooked  chicken, 
which  let  remain  to  warm  about  five  minutes ;  should  the  rice 
be  too  dry,  add  a  little  more  broth ;  serve  the  fowl  and  rice 


54  COMFORTS   FOR   INVALIDS. 

together  upon  a  hot  plate.  Secondly,  if  wanted  plain,  set  it  in 
a  stewpan,  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  stock,  and  let  it  warm 
gently.  Thirdly,  it  may  be  folded  in  a  sheet  of  paper  lightly 
oiled,  and  warmed  very  gently  upon  a  gridiron.  Or  fourthly, 
plain  broiled  upon  a  gridiron,  and  served  with  a  little  light 
gravy. 

127.  Partridge. — Proceed  in  every  manner  to  roast  as  just 
directed  for  the  chicken ;  a  young  one  would  require  about  ten 
minutes,  or  an  old  one  fifteen,  but  then  the  breast  only  ought 
to  be  eaten ;  whatever  remains  may  be  served  in  either  of  the 
ways  directed  for  chickens. 

128.  Pigeons  may  be  roasted  the  same  as  partridges,  but 
would  not  require  so  long.     A  pigeon  may  also  be  stewed  as 
follows : — Put  half  a  pint  of  mutton-broth  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  pigeon  trussed  as  for  boiling,  let  it  stew  gently  twenty  min- 
utes, if  young ;  both  the  pigeon  and  broth  ought  to  be  par- 
taken of.     Pigeons  may  also  be  broiled,  by  cutting  them  open 
from  the  bottom  of  the  breast  to  the  joint  of  the  wings,  but 
not  separating  them ;  rub  over  with  a  little  butter,  broil  twenty 
minutes  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  serve  with  a  little  gravy. 


129.  Pulled  Fowl. — With  the  remainder  of  a  roast  or  boiled 
fowl  or  chicken  you  may  make  a  very  light  dish,  by  pulling  off 
all  the  flesh  with  a  fork,  and  putting  it  into  a  stewpan,  then  in 
another  stewpan  place  all  the  bones  (previously  broken  small 
with  a  chopper),  with  a  little  parsley,  salt,  sugar,  and  half  a 
pint  of  water ;  let  it  boil  gently  until  the  water  has  reduced  to 
a  gill,  then  strain  it  over  the  flesh  of  the  chicken  in  the  other 
stewpan,  which  place  over  the  fire  until  quite  hot,  and  serve  ; 
should  it  be  too  thin,  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  flour  rubbed 
together  may  be  added,  and  boiled  a  minute.  Old  or  young 
fowls  may  be  used,  as  it  is  not  always  convenient  to  get  a  young 
fowl,  especially  in  the  country,  where  everything  must  be  turned 
to  account  and  properly  used  :  you  would  proceed  with  an  old 
fowl  the  same  as  for  a  chicken,  but  stewing  it  three  times  as 
much,  and  adding  more  water  in  proportion  ;  it  would  be  here 
impossible  to  name  the  exact  time  required,  as  the  fluctuation 


CULINARY    CORRESPONDENCE.  55 


is  so  great,  but  by  feeling  the  thigh  of  the  fowl  with  the  finder 
and  thumb,  you  may  ascertain,  for  if  done  sufficiently  it  will 
feel  tender  to  the  touch,  and  leave  the  bone  with  ease. 


CULINARY  CORRESPONDENCE. 

LETTER  No.  VI. 

DEAREST  ELOISE, — I  here  inclose  you  the  last  receipt  which  I  intend 
to  give  you  for  invalids.  'You  will,  no  doubt,  fancy  that  my  diet  is  ex- 
travagant ;  but  let  me  teach  you  that  when  you  must  pay  the  doctor's 
bill,  which  I  consider  an  extra  and  painful  tax  upon  humanity,  it  is  ours 
and  their  duty  to  try  to  restore  health  as  soon  as  possible,  which  my 
receipts  might,  if  well  coupled  with  the  science  of  a  medical  man,  cause 
a  prompt  restoration,  and  have  the  desired  effect  of  increasing  the 
butcher's  bill  by  diminishing  that  of  the  doctor.  But  I  must  also  tell 
you  that  I  intend  this  part  of  our  little  work,  if  ever  published,  to  be 
useful  to  ah1  classes  of  society,  and  that,  among  those  receipts,  the  rich 
as  well  as  the  humble,  may  partake  and  benefit  by  them  in  selecting 
according  to  their  means  and  their  requirements.  I  am  confident  that 
you  will  agree  with  me  that  even  here  I  have  closely  studied  the  rules 
of  economy. 

I  shall  therefore  close  the  sick-room  door  to  open  the  one  of  the  parlor, 
and  to  witness  the  merry  faces  of  the  million  who  have  abandoned  their 
industrious  occupations  for  the  day,  and  partake,  in  the  family  circle, 
their  simple  but  substantial  Sunday  meal.  I  always  used  to  say,  when 
in  business,  that  he  who  works  well  deserves  to  live  well, — I  do  not  mean 
to  say  extravagantly,  but  that  devoting  one  hour  a  day  to  their  principal 
meal  ought  to  be  classified  as  a  matter  of  business  in  regard  to  economy. 
We,  therefore,  must  be  very  positive  upon  this  important  question,  and 
make  them  perceive  that  dining  well  once  or  twice  a  week  is  really  un- 
worthy of  such  a  civilized  and  wealthy  country  as  ours,  where  provi- 
sions cannot  be  excelled  by  any  other,  both  in  regard  to  quantity  and 
quality.  Yours,  <fec.  HOETENSE. 

LETTER  No.  VII. 

MY  DEAR  MRS.  B. — Your  observation  upon  the  way  many  people  live 
in  this  country  is  no  doubt  very  correct,  but  do  you  not  think  that  if  you 
were  not  quite  so  abrupt  on  the  subject,  we  should  probably  be  more 
likely  to  succeed  in  bringing  our  friends  round  to  your  style  of  manage- 
ment ;  of  which,  for  my  part,  I  very  much  approve.  But  as  it  is  a  mat- 
ter of  importance,  I  should  like  you  to  describe  in  your  next  communi- 
cation what  are  the  principal  and  most  useful  joints  in  a  family,  and  to 
discourse  on  them,  in  pointing  out  the  good  wliich  may  be  achieved,  an  J 
the  evils  to  be  avoided.  Ever  yours,  <fcc.  ELOISE. 


56  CULINARY    CORRESPONDENCE. 


LETTER  No.  VIII. 

Many  compliments  to  you,  my  dear  Mrs.  L. 

At  your  request  I  here  inclose  the  list  you  require,  and  which  will 
show  you  how  circumscribed  the  middle  classes  are  in  respect  to  the  va- 
riation of  their  meals,  in  the  way  of  meat  and  manner  of  cooking  it.  I 
do  not  disapprove  of  your  idea  in  wishing  me  here  to  give  a  series  or  list 
of  those  provisions  ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  I  must  teU  you  frankly  my 
opinion,  it  being  a  subject  which  for  some  years  I  have  made  a  study, 
indeed  quite  a  hobby.  If  I  am  wrong,  let  any  one  who  knows  better 
correct  me ;  you  will  allow  I  am  always  open  to  conviction  and  improve- 
ment, no  matter  how  trifling,  which  often  leads  to  an  important  one. 

I  shall  therefore  name  all  joints  of  meat  which,  though  numerous, 
offer  but  little  variation  when  continually  dressed  the  same  way,  and 
observe  that  everybody  has  the  bad  habit  of  running  only  upon  a  few 
which  are  considered  the  best.  They  are  as  follow : 

Those  in  beef  are  the  sirloin,  ribs,  round,  silver-side,  aitchbone. 

In  mutton — leg,  saddle,  haunch,  loin. 

Lamb — fore-quarter  and  leg. 

Veal — fillet,  loin. 

Pork — leg,  sparerib,  loin. 

Every  one  of  these  joints  are  of  the  most  expensive  parts,  because 
generally  used,  although  many  of  the  other  parts  are  equally  as  good, 
as  I  shall  prove  to  you,  in  the  receipts  which  I  shall  write  for  the  din- 
ner, what  can  be  done  in  the  way  of  made  dishes  out  of  those  parts 
which  are  rarely  or  never  used  in  this  country  by  the  middle  classes, 
which  will  more  clearly  develope  to  you  my  ideas  on  the  subject  Be- 
sides, there  is  this  advantage,  that  if  a  small  tradesman  were  to  follow 
these  receipts,  and  buy  every  other  time  he  goes  to  the  butcher  what  he 
now  considers  a  second-class  joint,  he  would  not  only  be  conferring  a 
public  benefit,  but  also  one  on  himself,  and  be  the  means  of  diminishing 
the  price  of  those  now  considered  the  first  class,  which  at  the  present  mo- 
ment bear  too  liigh  a  price  in  proportion,  but  which  his  pride  causes  him 
to  purchase. 

To  prove  to  you  that  my  argument  is  correct,  look  carefully  over  the 
inclosed  list,  which  contains  all  the  joints  that  are  cut  from  "beef,  veal, 
mutton,  lamb,  pork,  and  you  will  find  that  ten  of  the  prime  are  in  daily 
use  to  one  of  the  other,  and  principally  for  a  want  of  the  knowledge  of 
cookery  ;  leaving  the  science  of  cooking  our  food  to  a  fierce  or  slow  fire, 
or  plunging  our  expensive  provisions  into  an  ocean  of  boiling  water, 
which  is  thrown  away,  after  having  absorbed  a  great  portion  of  the  suc- 
culence of  the  meat.  Try  the  receipt  for  the  Pot-au-feu  ;  taste  the  broth 
and  eat  the  meat,  and  tell  me  which  plan  you  consider  the  best.  Do 
not  think  that  I  object  to  our  plain  joint,  because,  now  and  then,  I  am 
rather  partial  to  them ;  but  why  not  manage  to  make  use  of  the  broth, 
by  diminishing  the  quantity  of  water,  and  simmering  them,  instead  of 
galloping  them  at  a  special  railway-train  speed  ?  Were  the  middle 
classes  only  but  slightly  acquainted  with  the  domestic  cookery  of  France, 
they  would  certainly  live  better  and  less  expensively  than  at  present , 


CULINARY    CORRESPONDENCE.  57 


very  often,  four  or  five  different  little  made  dishes  may  be  made  from 
the  remains  of  a  large  Sunday's  joint,  instead  of  its  appearing  on  the 
table  of  a  wealthy  tradesman  for  several  days  cold,  and  often  unsightly, 
and  backed  by  a  bottle  of  variegated-colored  pickles,  made  with  pyro- 
ligneous  acid,  which  sets  my  teeth  on  edge  merely  in  thinking  of  it,  and 
balanced  by  a  steaming  dish  of  potatoes,  which,  seen  through  the  par- 
lor window  by  the  customers  in  the  shop,  would  make  them  think  there 
was  a  grand  gastronomic  festivity  taking  place  at  Mr.  A.'s  or  B.'s,  the 
butterman  or  greengrocer ;  this  may  be  excusable  once  or  twice,  on  a 
hot  summer's  day,  with  an  inviting  salad,  seasoned  with  merely  salt 
pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar,  but  the  continual  repetition  of  that  way  of  liv- 
ing in  winter  is,  I  consider,  a  domestic  crime. 

You  will,  perhaps,  say  that,  in  large  firms,  where  forty  or  fifty,  or 
more  young  men  dine  every  day,  or  even  in  public  establishments  still 
more  numerous,  many  professed  cooks  would  be  required  to  dress  the 
dinner,  if  my  plan  was  adopted ;  not  at  all,  if  the  kitchen  is  properly 
constructed :  but  in  these  establishments,  joints,  of  necessity,  must  be 
the  principal  viand,  and  there  is  very  little  left ;  what  there  is,  is  con- 
sumed cold  for  supper ;  but  even  there  an  amelioration  might  take  place, 
although  only  a  plain  joint,  either  boiled  or  roasted,  roasted  or  boiled, 
which  is  generally  the  yearly  bill  of  fare,  and  so  simple,  yet  seldom  well 
done,  and  often  badly,  which,  in  a  large  establishment,  must  create  great 
waste,  and  make  bad  food  out  of  good  meat,  and  that  for  want  of  care 
or  a  little  more  knowledge,  which  may  appear  to  you  but  a  trifling 
matter,  but  not  so  to  thousands  of  poor  old  people,  with  toothless  gums 
and  fatigued  stomachs,  made  comfortable  within  walls  erected  by  the 
good  feelings  of  government,  or  by  public  charitv.  I  have  often  thought, 
when  visiting  these  establishments,  that  a  professed  cook  ought  to  be 
appointed,  as  well  as  a  medical  man,  to  visit  all  such  in  the  metropolis, 
not  only  to  inspect  the  quality  of  the  provisions,  but  superintend  the 
arrangements  of  the  dietary  table,  and  see  that  the  viands  are  properly 
cooked,  and  thus  correct  the  lamentable  ignorance  which  exists  at  the 
present  day ;  I  am  confident  that  tons  of  meat  are  daily  wasted  in  such 
institutions  throughout  the  country,  which,  if  well  employed,  would  feed 
a  great  part  of  the  starving  poor  of  the  United  Kingdom.  The  same 
system  ought  to  be  adopted  in  all  the  provincial  towns ;  and,  if  it  was 
in  existence,  we  should  not  have  to  deplore  such  lamentable  scenes 
which  we  had  latterly  to  witness  at  Tooting,  where,  no  doubt,  many 
were  to  blame ;  for,  by  the  calculation  I  have  made,  the  allowance, 
though  rather  limited,  was  amply  large  enough  to  allow  for  good  pro- 
visions, and  leave  sufficient  remuneration  for  any  reasonable  and  not 
covetous  man.  Why  should  not  these  poor  children  be  watched  over, 
and  made  as  comfortable  in  every  respect  as  the  wish  of  those  who  pay 
to  support  them  require  ?  besides,  it  has  an  effect  upon  after  generations ; 
for  upon  the  food  at  the  period  of  growth  depends  the  nature  of  the 
mind  at  a  more  advanced  age,  as  well  as  the  stature  of  the  man.  Do 
we  not  evince  our  care  to  objects  of  the  brute  creation,  and  feed,  with 
the  greatest  attention,  the  race-horse  ?  compare  him  with  others  of  his 

rcies  not  so  humanely  treated,  and  note  the  difference :  so  it  is  with 
human  race ;  and  I  might  almost  say  the  prosperity  of  a  country 
3* 


58  CULINARY    CORRESPONDENCE. 


depends  upon  the  food  of  its  youth.  You  will  perhaps  think  that  I  am 
rather  sharp  in  my  remarks,  and  probably  longer  than  is  required,  but 
still  it  will  be  gratifying  to  both  of  us,  should  we  find  that  these  remarks 
prove  beneficial  to  such  establishments  as  above  mentioned ;  and  it  is 
only  by  giving  notoriety  to  these  important  details,  and  being  positive 
in  exposing  the  truth,  that  we  can  be  believed  and  followed,  and  you 
must  not  mind  displeasing  the  few,  if  you  are  to  be  useful  to  the  many. 
Forever,  <fcc.  HORTENSE. 

LETTER  No.  IX. 

MY  DEAR  HORTENSE, — After  the  receipt  of  your  last  observations, 
which,  on  first  seeing,  I  thought  too  long,  but  after  having  read  them 
over  again,  I  am  convinced  that  I  shall  not  be  able  to  shorten  them ;  at 
all  events,  there  is  a  great  deal  of  truth  in  them,  and,  as  you  justly  say, 
they  are  the  observations  of  a  person  who  has  constantly  studied  do- 
mestic comfort  and  economy ;  I  shall  therefore  copy  them  in  the  journal 
just  as  you  send  them  to  me.  Truly  yours, 

ELOISE. 


LETTER  No.  X. 

MY  DEAR  ELOISE, — I  am  glad  to  hear  that  you  will  not  alter  any  of 
my  last  copy  sent,  because  I  assure  you  I  wrote  with  a  full  conviction 
that  I  was  right,  and  from  facts  which  experience  alone  can  engrave  on 
the  memory ;  but,  however,  we  will  now  proceed :  but  I  think  it  will  be 
necessary  to  alter  our  original  intention,  namely,  in  order  to  save  any 
confusion,  to  class  all  the  receipts  for  the  dinner  together,  and  thus  form 
a  large  bill  of  fare,  and  follow,  on  a  small  plan,  what  M.  Soyer,  of  the 
Reform  Club,  has  done  on  a  large  scale,  in  his  '  Gastronomic  Regene- 
rator,' by  which  the  most  inexperienced  hands  may  easily  provide  a 
large  or  small  dinner  adapted  for  all  classes,  without  committing  a 
blunder,  and  thus  make  a  selection  from  soups,  different  dishes  of  fish, 
and  an  innumerable  number  of  removes ;  entrees,  roasts,  savory  dishes, 
vegetables,  sweets,  dessert,  <fcc.,  and  having  chosen  one  or  two  of  each 
series,  and,  on  referring  to  the  receipt,  an  idea  of  their  cost,  within  a  few 
pence  of  the  market-price,  may  be  gained. 

Let  me  know,  dear,  by  return  of  post,  if  you  approve  of  my  new  idea, 
as  it  is  rather  deviating  from  our  original  one ;  but  observe,  that  having 
so  very  distinctly  given  the  Breakfast  Receipts,  and  also  for  Invalids,  it 
will  be  more  clearly  understood  than  by  repeating  the  same  over  and 
over  again,  which  would  be  unavoidable  if  following  our  first  proposi- 
tion. Yours  truly,  in  haste, 

HORTENSE. 


LETTER  No.  XI. 

MY  DEAR  HORTENSE, — Never  were  you  inspired  by  a  better  idea  re- 
specting your  new  plan ;  it  is  so  clearly  explained,  that  I  fancy  our 


ROASTING.  59 


labor  is  over ;  but  I  must  tell  you  that,  on  the  receipt  of  your  last,  I 
•wrote  to  M.  Soyer,  to  inquire  if  he  would  object  to  our  taking  a  few 
hints  from  his  "  Kitchen  at  Home,"  wliich  forms  the  last  part  of  his 
work.  His  answer  was  immediate,  short,  and  as  follows : 

"  DEAR  MADAM, — It  would  be  entirely  deviating  from  the  preface  of 
my  '  Gastronomic  Regenerator'  to  refuse  you  anything  in  my  power ; 
and  as  your  simple  demand  lies  within  that  scope,  you  are  quite  welcome 
to  take  a  few  hints,  if  you  require  them  for  your  little  work,  from  the 
part  entitled  '  My  Kitchen  at  Home.' 

"  Wishing  your  exertions  may  be  well  appreciated,  I  am,  dear  madam, 
most  sincerely,  your  humble  and  devoted, 

"  Reform  Club.  A.  SOTEK." 

As  you  have  his  book,  you,  no  doubt,  know  to  which  part  he  alludes. 
He  says,  in  his  preface,  that  he  has  made  it  a  rule  never  to  refuse  ladies 
anything  in  his  power ;  so  far  he  has  kept  his  word  with  us :  so  you  may, 
dearest,  if  you  require,  make  use  of  his  offer.  I  shall  expect,  by  the 
next  post,  the  commencement  of  the  Dinner  Receipts,  which  I  am  con- 
fident you  will  make  as  simple  and  as  short  as  possible.  With  kindest 
regards,  yours, 

ELOISE. 


Roasting,  Baking,  Boiling,  Stewing,  Braising,  Frying,  Sauteing, 
Broiling. 

ROASTING  being  the  most  general  in  use,  we  will  first  describe  it, 
although  not  that  which  was  first  put  in  practice  in  cooking,  it  being 
evidently  an  improvement  on  broiling :  we  can  easily  understand  how, 
in  the  early  primitive  times,  man,  finding  that  his  food  got  covered 
with  the  ashes  with  Which  he  cooked  his  meat,  he  would  invent  a  species 
of  grate  upon  which  he  could  raise  the  fire,  and  cook  his  meat  before  it : 
this  primitive  mode  of  cooking  has  lasted,  in  many  countries,  up  to  the 
present  day,  and  even  in  London  to  within  a  few  years ;  for  I  remember 
seeing,  in  the  old  Goldsmith's  Hall,  a  fire-place,  consisting  of  stages,  on 
which  was  laid  the  wood,  and  when  the  meat,  <fcc.,  was  spitted  and  ar- 
ranged before  it,  the  wood  was  lighted,  and  a  man  turned  the  spits.  (It 
was,  no  doubt,  from  arranging  the  wood  thus  in  stages  that  the  name 
of  range  was  derived.)  In  many  noblemen's  castles  and  ecclesiastical 
establishments,  dogs  were  kept  to  turn  the  spit,  from  whence  we  have 
those  of  the  name  of  turnspit ;  whilst  in  others,  where  there  happened 
to  be  a  person  of  a  mechanical  turn  of  mind,  they  applied  a  water-wheel 
to  the  purpose,  and  the  water  from  it  formed  a  stream  in  the  kitchen, 
wliich  served  as  a  reservoir  for  live  fish.  Different  opinions  exist  as  to 
the  mode  and  time  required  for  roasting,  but  this  must  all  depend  upon 
the  nature  of  the  fire  and  the  meat.  In  the  Receipts  will  be  found  the 
time  which  each  requires.  My  plan  is  to  make  up  as  large  a  fire  as  the 
nature  of  the  grate  will  allow,  because  I  can  place  my  joint  near  or  not, 
as  may  be  required,  and  thus  obtain  every  degree  of  heat. 


60  BAKING BOILING STEWING BRAISING. 


BAKING  is  a  branch  of  the  art  of  cooking  which,  although  one  of  the 
oldest,  is  the  least  understood.  (As  I  shall  have  to  refer  to  this  subject 
again,  I  will  give  the  reason  why  in  a  future  letter.)  It  is  performed 
in  various  kinds  of  air-tight  chambers,  called  ovens,  the  best  of  which 
have  the  same  form  as  in  the  tune  of  the  Egyptians.  Previous  to  the 
art  of  baking  being  practised,  boiled  pulse  and  corn  were  the  food  of  the 
people ;  even  Rome  contained  no  bakers  until  near  six  hundred  years 
after  it  was  founded.  Of  late  years,  great  improvements  have  been 
made  in  the  construction  of  ovens  for  baking  of  meat,  called  roasting 
ovens,  which  cause  great  economy  in  the  expenditure  of  fuel ;  and,  in 
large  public  establishments,  where  a  number  of  the  same  kind  of  joints 
are  required,  it  is  the  best  plan  of  cooking.  In  the  Receipts  will  be 
found  the  time  required  by  each  for  baking,  but,  in  a  general  way,  for 
meat,  hot  ovens  are  the  best ;  for  poultry,  not  so  hot  as  meat ;  and  pastry, 
according  to  its  kind.  In  using  dishes  or  utensils  for  the  oven,  they 
ought,  if  of  metal,  to  be  of  galvanized  iron,  and  separate  ones  for  meat 
and  fish. 

BOILING  is  the  next  branch  of  the  art  which  is  of  the  most  impor- 
tance and  appears  the  most  simple,  yet,  at  the  same  time,  the  most 
difficult,  and  is  a  subject  upon  which,  if  I  were  to  dilate,  would  occupy 
a  good  quarto  volume ;  it  is  one  of  those  easy  things  which  it  is  sup- 
posed everybody  can  do,  and  therefore  no  attention  is  paid  to  it,  and  it 
is  generally  done  badly.  According  to  the  way  in  which  it  is  done, 
meat  may  be  rendered  hard  and  tough  or  tender,  lose  or  retain  its 
flavor  or  nourishment ;  great  difference  of  opinion  exists  amongst  med- 
ical men  which  are  the  easiest  of  digestion — roasted  or  boiled  meats. 
I  say  it  is  a  subject  quite  impossible  to  decide,  as  it  must  depend  upon 
the  different  constitutions  and  climate ;  for  we  might  as  well  say  that 
the  food  of  the  Esquimaux  is  adapted  for  the  native  of  Italy. 

STEWING  ought  to  be  the  best  understood,  on  account  of  its  econ- 
omy ;  pieces  of  coarse  meat,  subjected  to  stewing,  if  properly  done, 
become  tender,  as  the  gelatinous  parts  become  partly  dissolved;  it 
should  be  done  slowly,  the  pan  partly  uncovered,  and  frequently  skim- 
med. Great  cleanliness  should  be  observed  in  all  the  vessels  used  for 
stewing. 

BRAISING  is  the  next  and  most  important  part  of  the  art  of  cook- 
ing, and,  like  the  saute,  belongs  entirely  to  the  French  school,  from 
whom  it  takes  its  name,  braise  being  the  remains  of  wood  burnt  in  the 
oven,  or  live  charcoal :  and  as  this  plan  of  cookery  requires  the  action 
of  the  fire  under  and  over  the  braising-pan,  which  is  air-tight,  in  order 
that  the  aromatic  flavor  arising  from  its  contents  may  be  imbibed  by 
the  meat  or  poultry,  and  give  it  that  succulence  so  much  esteemed  by 
epicures.  The  braise  is  put  on  the  cover,  which,  in  some  cases,  is  made 
deep  on  purpose  to  hold  it.  Its  origin  is  stated  to  be  owing  to  a  gas- 
tronomic society  which  was  formerly  in  existence  in  Paris,  whose  object 
was  to  benefit  and  improve  the  art  of  cookery,  and  who  offered  a  re- 
ward of  a  silver  gridiron  to  any  culinary  artist  who  would  discover  a 


FRYING.  61 


new  mode  of  dressing  a  turkey.  Although  a  gridiron  was,  no  doubt, 
intended  to  be  used,  yet  a  young  artist  named  La  Gacque,  warmed  by 
the  offer,  directed  his  imagination  to  quite  a  different  mode,  and  used 
the  pan  instead  of  the  gridiron,  and  thus  composed  the  braise,  which 
was  unanimously  approved  of  by  that  scientific,  gastronomic,  and  epicu- 
rean body,  who  awarded  him  the  prize.  The  chief  art  in  braising  is  to 
do  it  slowly,  taking  care  that  the  ingredients  are  well-proportioned, 
receipts  for  which  will  be  found  in  their  proper  place. 

FRYING. — Of  all  the  apparently  simple  modes  of  cookery  there  is 
none  more  so  than  that  of  frying,  but  yet  how  rare  to  meet  with  it 
done  properly.  I  believe  it  is  to  be  attributed,  in  a  great  measure,  to 
the  idea  that,  to  do  it  well  is  expensive.  I  have  therefore  made  a 
series  of  experiments  upon  a  plan  such  as  should  be  followed  in  every 
private  house,  and  I  am  convinced  that  to  do  it  well  is  cheaper  than 
doing  it  badly ;  but,  in  the  first  place,  we  ought  to  consider,  What  is 
frying  ?  It  is  the  insertion  of  any  substance  into  boiling  oil,  or  grease, 
by  which  the  surface  of  that  substance  becomes  carbonized,  and  the 
heat  which  effects  this  object  is  sufficient  to  solidify  the  albumen  and 
gelatine,  or,  more  commonly  speaking,  cooked ;  to  do  this  properly,  the 
substance  ought  to  be  covered  by  the  liquid,  so  that  the  heat  acts  all 
over  it  at  the  same  time,  or  otherwise  the  osmazome,  or  gravy,  will  be 
dried  out  of  that  part  which  is  not  covered,  and  the  succulence  and  fla- 
vor of  the  viand  lost ;  or,  should  the  liquid  not  be  of  that  degree  of 
heat  which  would  carbonize  the  surface  on  the  moment  of  its  immer- 
sion, it  would  then  enter  into  the  substance,  render  it  greasy,  and  de- 
stroy its  flavor,  which  no  degree  of  heat  afterwards  could  remedy. 
Those  articles  which  are  fried  are  generally  those  which  have  a  coating 
of  materials  (such  as  bread-crumbs  and  batter)  which  are  quickly  car- 
bonized, and  thus  form  a  crust  which  prevents  the  grease  penetrating, 
concentrates  the  liquids,  and  preserves  the  flavor  of  the  article ;  the 
carbonization  once  effected,  the  fire  should  be  immediately  moderated, 
particularly  if  the  article  is  large,  in  order  that  the  interior  may  be- 
come properly  solidified.  All  articles  properly  fried  are  generally 
much  liked,  as  they  are  agreeable  to  the  eye,  and  afford  a  pleasing 
variety. 

The  plan  that  I  recommend  you  to  adopt  is,  to  obtain  an  iron  or  cop- 
per pan  long  enough  for  a  good-sized  sole,  and  6  to  8  inches  deep,  and 
fill  three  to  four  inches  of  it  with  fat — the  skimmings  of  the  stock-pot, 
or,  if  that  should  not  be  sufficient,  the  kidney-fat  of  beef,  cut  up,  melted, 
and  strained.  In  wealthy  establishments,  lard,  and,  in  some,  bacon-fat 
melted  is  used,  and,  for  some  articles,  olive  oil,  wliich  can  only  be  used 
once ;  but  in  our  less  luxurious  homes  I  think  the  above  is  sufficient, 
besides,  it  has  the  advantage  of  not  requiring  that  great  attention  which 
the  other  does.  When  you  have  the  fat  on,  before  immersing  the  sub- 
stance you  intend  to  fry,  see  that  it  is  sufficiently  hot  by  dipping  your 
finger  (not  in  the  fat),  but  in  a  little  water,  and  then  hold  it  over  the 
fat,  so  that  a  few  drops  go  into  it ;  if  it  spits  and  throws  back  the  water, 
it  is  sufficiently  hot :  or,  throw  in  a  small  dice  of  bread  and  take  it  out 
immediately ;  if  it  is  firm  or  colored,  it  is  hot  enough :  or,  in  frying  of 


62  SAUTEING. 


fish,  before  putting  it  in,  lay  hold  of  the  head  and  dip  the  end  of  the 
tail,  and,  if  it  crisps  it,  then  let  the  remainder  go  in.  I  have  found,  if 
due  attention  is  paid  to  the  pan  to  prevent  it  from  burning,  forty  arti- 
cles may  be  fried  in  it  before  it  wants  renewing ;  and  I  am  certain  it 
will  be  found  cheaper  than  the  common  way  of  putting  a  little  fat  into 
the  frying-pan  and  turning  the  sole  over  and  over,  for  you  are  then 
almost  certain  of  sending  the  grease  up  to  the  table,  where  it  is  not 
wanted.  When  the  fat  is  not  used,  it  should  be  emptied,  whilst  hot, 
through  a  sieve,  into  an  earthen  pipkin,  and  covered  with  paper  to  pre- 
vent the  dust  going  in  it.  For  the  purpose  of  frying,  an  iron  wire-bas- 
ket, with  a  handle,  is  used,  in  which  the  object  to  be  cooked  is  placed, 
and  thus  inserted  in  the  liquid.  The  cost  of  this  instrument  is  trifling. 

SAUTEING.— You  will  perceive,  dearest,  by  the  following,  that 
the  word  fried  is  often  wrongly  used  in  cookery  instead  of  the  word 
saute,  which  process  is  totally  different,  and  produces  quite  another 
effect  on  food.  Saute  means  anything  cooked  in  a  very  small  quantity 
of  butter,  oil,  lard,  or  fat,  one  side  of  the  article  at  a  time,  whilst  the 
other  requires  about  100  times  more  of  the  above-named  materials  to 
cook  properly.  You  will  see,  in  these  remarks,  that  it  is  not  frying  a 
pancake,  omelette,  or  still  less  a  chop,  steak,  or  cutlet,  but  that  they  are 
sauted ;  and  how  to  explain  that  word,  to  use  it  instead  of  the  misap- 
plied word  fry,  puzzles  me  considerably,. as  I  am  quite  ignorant  of  its 
origin  as  regards  its  application  to  cookery.  All  the  researches  I  have 
made  in  English  and  French  Dictionaries  and  Encyclopaedias,  have  not 
enlightened  me  in  the  least  on  the  subject.  In  French,  it  means  to 
jump,  hop,  skip,  understood  by  our  boys  at  school,  as  well  as  by  the 
grasshopper  tribe,  called  in  French  sauterelles,  from  the  word  sauter, 
to  jump.  I  well  remember  at  school  we  had  a  French  emigre  for  a 
dancing-master,  who  used  to  get  into  a  passion  when  we  did  not  dance 
to  his  professional  taste ;  and  used  to  say,  in  shaking  his  powdered  wig, 
as  holding  his  fiddle  in  one  hand  and  his  bow  in  the  other,  making  all 
kinds  of  grimaces  and  contortions,  which  used  to  remind  me  of  the  prin- 
cipal figure  in  the  group  of  the  Laocoon, — "  Mon  dieu,  mon  dieu,  young 
miss,  vous  sautez  tres  bien,  mais  vous  dansez  fort  mal ;"  which  means, 
"  You  jump  very  well,  but  you  dance  very  badly."  It  also  reminds  me 
of  an  expression  made  by  a  friend  of  ours  from  Havre,  who  was  on  a 
visit  to  us  last  November.  Seeing  some  Guy  Fawkes  carried  about  the 
street,  he  asked  me  what  it  meant ;  when  I  told  him,  that  in  the  year 
1605,  an  attempt  was  made  to  destroy  by  gunpowder  the  King  and 
Parliament  in  the  House  of  Lords,  as  well  as .  "  Oui,  oui,  ma- 
dame,  I  know,  I  remember  reading  of  it  in  English  history ;  it  was  that 
little  brute  qui  a  voulut  faire  sauter  le  Parlement,"  replied  he  very 
quickly.  " Sauter,  sauter"  I  said ;  " no,  sir,  not  saute — blow  up." 
"Oui,  oui,  madame,  I  know,  it  is  the  same  thing."  "Same  thing," 
replied  I.  This  of  course  puzzled  my  culinary  imagination  still  more ; 
and  I  perceived,  that  if  the  word  was  translated'  to  his  meaning,  it 
would  sound  most  absurd  and  ridiculous ;  as,  for  example,  on  being  at 
a  festive  board,  and  a  polite  young  gentleman,  or  even'  your  own  hus- 
band, might  gallantly  offer  to  give  you  a  blow-up  cutlet,  instead  of  a 


BROILOG.  63 


cotelette  saute,  as  they  say  in  fashionable  circles.  I  can  easily  conceive, 
that  if  the  cotelette  was  blown  up,  it  would  stand  a  chance  of  coming 
down  on  the  other  side,  thus  saving  the  cook  the  trouble ;  but  if  Guy 
Fawkes  had  unfortunately  succeeded,  it  would  have  produced  quite 
another  effect.  Having  failed  in  my  literary  researches,  I  tried  to  find 
it  in  practice.  I  therefore  went  to  my  kitchen,  and  put  two  spoonfuls 
of  oil  in  a  sautepan ;  I  took  a  nice  spring  chicken  prepared  for  broiling, 
put  on  the  fire ;  and,  as  it  began  to  act  upon  it,  the  oil  began  to  jump, 
and  also  slightly  the  chicken.  I  then  perceived  that  the  way  my 
French  friend  used  the  word  was  right ;  and  that,  after  all,  there  was 
not  such  a  great  difference  in  Guy  Fawkes's  plan  of  cooking  the  Parlia- 
ment and  that  of  a  cutlet  or  chicken,  for  both  were  doomed  to  destruc- 
tion, the  one  by  falling  in  awful  ruins  on  the  fire,  and  the  other  devoured 
by  a  ravenous  stomach  on  the  dinner -table.  Now,  dearest,  having 
found  no  means  of  translating  it  to  my  satisfaction,  I  see  no  other  plan 
but  to  adopt  it  amongst  us,  and  give  it  letters  of  naturalization,  not  for 
the  beauty  of  the  word,  but  for  its  utility.  The  process  of  sauteing  is 
at  once  quick,  simple,  and  economical,  and  to  be  well  done  furnishes  a 
pleasing  article  of  food.  The  art  of  doing  it  well  consists  in  doing  it 
quickly,  to  keep  the  gravy  and  succulence  in  the  meat,  which  a  slow 
process  would  nullify,  and  is  of  course  confined  to  small  articles  of  every 
kind  of  food. 

BROILING  is,  without  doubt,  the  earliest  and  most  primitive  mode 
of  cookery,  it  being  that  which  would  present  itself  to  man  in  a  state 
of  nature.  It  is  one  of  the  easiest  parts  of  cookery,  and  therefore 
should  be  done  well ;  it  entirely  depends  upon  the  fire,  which  must  be 
exceedingly  clear,  and  the  best  gridiron  is  that  having  round  bars,  which 
should  be  placed  slanting  over  the  fire,  to  prevent  the  fat  going  into  it ; 
the  bars  should  be  greased,  and  the  gridiron  should  be  placed  on  the 
fire  to  get  hot  before  the  object  to  be  cooked  is  placed  on  it.  I  have 
heard  that  great  difference  of  opinion  exists  in  cookery  books  upon  the 
proper  broiling  of  a  steak,  if  it  should  be  turned  only  once  or  often. 
My  plan  is  to  turn  it  often,  and  my  reason  is,  that,  if  turned  but  once, 
the  albumen  and  the  fibrine  of  the  meat  get  charred,  and  the  heat 
throws  out  the  osmazome  or  gravy  on  the  upper  side,  which,  when 
turned  over,  goes  into  the  fire  ;  by  turning  it  often,  so  as  at  first  only 
to  set  the  outside,  the  gravy  goes  into  the  centre,  and  it  becomes  evenly 
done  throughout.  (See  "Soyer's  Mutton  Chop.")  As  regards  the 
thickness  of  the  meat  to  be  broiled,  that  depends  in  a  great  measure  on 
the  intensity  of  the  fire,  but  the  quicker  the  better,  and  also  the  sooner 
it  is  eaten  after  taken  from  the  fire  the  better.  I  have  latterly,  in 
broiling  rump-steaks,  added  that  which,  by  a  great  many,  is  considered 
an  improvement ;  it  is,  on  turning  them  the  last  time,  to  dredge  them 
out  of  a  dredger  with  fine  holes,  in  which  has  been  placed  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fine  biscuit  or  rusk-powder,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  saltspoonful  of  either  eschalot-powder  or 
mushroom-powder,  or  finely -pulverized  salts  of  celery,  well  mixed  to- 
gether, and  the  steak  to  be  placed  in  a  very  hot  dish,  with  a  little  mush- 
room-ketchup and  a  small  piece  of  butter,"  and  served  immediately. 


64  SAUCES. 


SAUCES. 

SAUCES  in  cookery  are  like  the  first  rudiments  of  grammar,  which 
consists  of  certain  rules  called  Syntax,  which  is  the  foundation  of  all 
languages :  these  fundamental  rules  are  nine,  so  has  cookery  the  same 
number  of  sauces,  which  are  the  foundation  of  all  others ;  but  these, 
like  its  prototype  the  grammar,  have  two — brown  and  white,  which 
bear  a  resemblance  to  the  noun  and  verb,  as  they  are  the  first  and 
most  easily  learnt,  and  most  constantly  in  use ;  the  others  are  the  ad- 
juncts, pronouns,  adverbs,  and  interjections;  upon 'the  proper  use  of 
the  two  principal  ones  depends  the  quality  of  all  others,  and  the 
proper  making  of  which  tends  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  dinner ;  for  to 
my  fancy  they  are  to  cookery  what  the  gamut  is  in  the  composition  of 
music,  as  it  is  by  the  arrangement  of  the  notes  that  harmony  is  pro- 
duced, so  should  the  ingredients  in  the  sauce  be  so  nicely  blended,  and 
that  delightful  concord  should  exist,  which  would  equally  delight  the 
palate,  as  a  masterpiece  of  a  Mozart  or  a  Rossini  should  delight  the  ear ; 
but  which,  if  badly  executed,  tantalize  those  nervous  organs,  affect  the 
whole  system,  and  prove  a  nuisance  instead  of  a  pleasure.  I  will 
therefore  be  very  precise  in  describing  the  two,  in  order  that  when  you 
make  them,  you  will  not  cause  your  guests  to  make  grimaces  at  each 
other,  when  partaking  of  them  at  your  festive  board,  for  the  present 
age  is  a  little  more  refined  than  at  the  time  of  Dr.  Johnson,  and  we  are 
often  obliged  to  swallow  what  we  do  not  like ;  for  it  is  reported  of  him, 
that  being  at  a  ceremonious  dinner-party,  and  indulging  in  his  usual 
flow  of  wit,  he  unconsciously  partook  of  a  spoonful  of  very  hot  soup, 
which  he  immediately  returned  to  the  plate  he  had  taken  it  from ;  and 
observing  the  astonishment  of  some  of  his  neighbors,  he  very  coolly 
remarked,  "  A  fool  would  have  burnt  his  mouth." 

When  we  are  at  home  alone,  I  very  seldom  trouble  myself  by  making 
white  or  brown  sauce,  which  I  can  avoid  by  selecting  simplified  dishes, 
which  easily  produce  their  own  sauce  whilst  cooking  them.  But  when 
I  expect  a  little  company,  the  first  I  order  of  my  cook  is  to  make  me 
half  of  the  quantity  of  the  following  receipts  for  white  and  brown 


130.  White  Sauce. — Cut  and  chop  a  knuckle  of  veal,  weigh- 
ing about  four  pounds,  into  large  dice ;  also  half  a  pound  of 
lean  bacon ;  butter  the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan  with  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  add  two  onions,  a  small  carrot,  a  tur- 
nip, three  cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  a  bouquet  of  a  bay-leaf, 
a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  six  of  parsley,  add  a  gill  of  water,  place 
over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  round  occasionally,  until  the  bottom 
of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  whitish  glaze,  when  fill  up  with 
three  quarts  of  water,  add  a  good  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  let 


SAUCES.  65 

simmer  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  an  hour  and  a  half,  keeping 
well  skimmed,  when  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin ; 
in  another  stewpan  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with 
which  mix  six  ounces  of  flour,  stirring  over  the  fire  about  three 
minutes,  take  off,  keep  stirring  until  partly  cold,  when  add  the 
stock  all  at  once,  continually  stirring  and  boiling  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour ;  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  stir  a  few  minutes 
longer,  add  a  little  chopped  mushrooms  if  handy,  pass  through 
a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  until  required  for  use,  stirring  it  round 
occasionally  until  cold;  the  above  being  a  simplified  white 
sauce,  will  be  referred  to  very  often  in  the  receipts. 

131.  Brown  Sauce. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  rub  it  over  the  bottom,  peel  two  or  three  large  onions,  cut 
them  in  thick  slices,  lay  them  on  the  bottom,  cut  into  small 
pieces  about  two  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,*  all  meat,  or  three 
pounds  if  with  bone,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  cut 
small,  two  cloves,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
two  bay-leaves,  a  gill  of  water ;  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  let  it  re- 
main ten  minutes,  when  stir  it  well  round,  subdue  the  fire,  let 
it  remain  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  stir  now  and  then  until  it 
has  a  nice  brown  color ;    fill  your  pan  with  three  quarts  of 
water ;  when  boiling,  set  it  on  the  corner  of  the  stove,  with  the 
lid  three  parts  on  the  saucepan ;    when  boiling,  skim  fat  and 
all ;  after  one  hour,  or  one  hour  and  a  half  simmering,  pass  it 
through   a  sieve  into  a  basin.      To  make  the  thickening  or 
roux  for  it,  proceed  as  follows  : — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  pan,  which  melt  on  a  slow  fire,  then  add  three  ounces  of  flour, 
stir  it  until  getting  a  thin  deep  yellow  color  ;  this  in  France  is 
called  roux,  being  very  useful  in  cookery,  and  will  be  often  re- 
ferred to  in  these  receipts.     This  process  will  take  five  minutes, 
when  remove  from  the  fire  for  two  minutes  to  cool,  then  add  at 
once  three  and  a  quarter  pints  of  the  above  stock,  very  quickly 
set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil,  remove  to  corner  to  simmer,  and  skim ; 
it  ought  to  be  entirely  free  from  grease,  and  of  a  light  chestnut 
color. 

132.  Demi- Glaze — Thin  Brown  Sauce  for  Made  Dishes, — 
When  I  have  a  small  dinner-party,  I  always,  as  I  told  you  be- 

*  Half  veal  and  beef  can  be  used ;  or  if  no  vual,  all  beef. 


66  SAUCES. 


fore,  make  small  quantities  of  white  and  brown  sauce  as  above, 
but  this  is  a  nice  way  of  clarifying  a  brown  sauce  without  much 
trouble,  and  makes  it  a  beautiful  transparent  brown  color :  but 
although  I  have  made  it  quite  a  study,  that  each  entrte,  or 
made  dish  for  daily  use,  should  make  its  own  sauce,  yet  I  must 
impress  upon  you  that  this  sauce  is  the  real  key  to  cooking  a 
good  and  ceremonious  dinner.  Put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  in  a 
middle-sized  stewpan,  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  con- 
somme, put  it  on  the  stove,  stir  with  wooden  spoon,  let  it  boil 
as  fast  as  possible,  take  the  scum  off  which  will  rise  to  the  sur- 
face, reduce  it  until  it  adheres  lightly  to  the  spoon,  pass  it 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy  into  a  basin,  stir  now  and  then  until 
cold,  to  prevent  a  skin  forming  on  the  top,  put  it  by  until 
wranted  for  use.  It  will  keep  for  a  week  in  winter,  by  adding 
half  a  gill  of  white  broth  every  other  day,  and  giving  it  a  boil ; 
the  addition  of  a  tablespoonful  of  tomatos,  gives  it  a  beautiful 
color ;  use  where  indicated. 


133.  Thin  Brown  Sauce  of  Mushrooms. — Put  twelve  table- 
spoonfuls  of  thin  brown  sauce  in  a  small  stewpan  to  boil,  then 
have  six  or  eight  small  mushrooms  well  cleaned  and  washed, 
chop  them  fine,  and  place  in  sauce,  and  boil  for  five  minutes ; 
taste  if  it  is  to  your  liking  ;  the  addition  of  a  little  sugar  is  an 
improvement:  a  little  cayenne,  if  liked,  may  be  introduced. 
This  sauce  is  good  for  cutlets,  broiled  fowl  and  game,  &c. 


134.  Eschalot  Sauce. — Chop  fine  about  a  good  tablespoonful 
of  eschalot,  wash  them  by  placing  them  in  the  corner  of  a  nap- 
kin, and  pouring  water  over  them  ;  press  them  until  dry,  put 
them  in  a  small  stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
one  clove,  a  little  mace  ;  boil  two  minutes,  add  ten  tablespoon- 
fuls of  demi-glaze,  boil  a  little  longer,  add  a  little  sugar,  and 
serve. 


135.  Piquant  Sauce. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
onions,  or  eschalots,  cleaned  as  above,  into  a  stewpan ;  put  also 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  bay-leaf,  and  boil ;  then 
add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  half  a  one  of  chopped 
parsley,  ditto  of  green  gherkins  ;  boil  five  minutes,  skim,  add  a 
Httle  sugar,  taste  if  well  seasoned,  take  out  bay-leaf  and  serve. 


SAUCES.  67 


136.  Tarragon  Sauce. — Put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  demi- 
glaze,  and  four  of  broth,  into  a  stewpan  ;  boil  for  a  few  min- 
utes, add  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  have  ready  picked  twenty 
leaves  of  fresh  tarragon,  put  in  to  simmer  two  minutes,  and 
serve  with  any  kind  of  poultry,  but  especially  spring  chickens. 


13V.  Brown  Cucumber  Sauce. — Peel  a  small  fresh  cucum- 
ber, cut  it  in  neat  pieces,  put  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  sugar, 
add  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  set  it  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  it  now  and 
then,  add  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  and  four  of  broth  ; 
let  it  simmer  till  tender,  skim  the  butter  off,  remove  the  cucum- 
bers into  another  stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce  a  little,  taste  it  and 
serve. 


138.  Mince  Herb  Sauce. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely 
chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  place 
it  on  the  fire,  stir  a  few  minutes,  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  demi- 
glaze  and  four  of  broth  or  water  ;  boil,  skim ;  if  too  thick,  and 
the  scum  should  not  rise,  add  half  a  gill  of  broth  or  water ; 
boil,  and  reduce  to  a  proper  thickness,  and  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley  if  handy,  one  of  mushrooms,  and  season 
with  a  little  cayenne,  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  ;  serve. 
I  often  introduce  a  little  garlic  in  this. 

139.  Italian  Herb  Sauce. — Proceed  in  the  same  way  as  the 
above,  only  add  a  little  chopped  thyme  and  a  small  glass  of 
sherry. 


140.  Robert  Sauce. — Peel  and  cut  up  two  good-sized  onions, 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter  till  they  are  a 
nice  yellow  color,  then  add  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glaze, 
and  two  of  water  or  broth  ;    skim,  boil  quick  ;  when  a  proper 
thickness,  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  French  mustard ;  season 
it  rather  high  ;  if  no  French  mustard,  use  English,  but  it  com- 
pletely changes  the  flavor,  though  still  very  palatable. 

141.  Ravigote  Sauce. — Put  in  a  stewpan  one  middle-sized 
onion  sliced,  with  a  little  carrot,  a  little  thyme,  bay-leaf,  one 


68  SAUCES. 


clove,  a  little  mace,  a  little  scraped  horseradish,  a  little  butter, 
fry  a  few  minutes,  then  add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  ten 
tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  four  of  broth  ;  when  boiling, 
skim,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly  ;  when  melted,  pass 
all  through  a  tammy,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  meat  or  poul- 
try ;  with  hare  or  venison  it  is  excellent. 

142.  Brown  Mushroom  Sauce. — Clean  and  cut  twelve  small 
mushrooms  in  slices,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  but- 
ter, salt,  pepper,  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  set  it  on  a 
slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  ten  spoonfuls  of  demi- 
glaze  ;  boil  till  they  are  tender,  and  serve.     A  little  mushroom 
catsup  may  be  introduced. 

143.  Orange  Sauce  for  Game. — Peel  half  an  orange,  re- 
moving all  the  pith ;  cut  it  into  slices,  and  then  in  fillets  ;  put 
them  in  a  gill  of  water  to  boil  for  two  minutes  ;  drain  them  on 
a  sieve,  throwing  the  water  away ;  place  in  the  stewpan  ten 
spoonfuls  of  dem-iglaze,  or  two  of  broth  ;    and,  when  boiling, 
add  the  orange,  a  little  sugar,  simmer  ten  minutes,  skim,  and 
serve.     The  juice  of  half  an  orange  is  an  improvement.     This 
is  served  with  ducklings  and  waterfowl :    those  that  like  may 
add  cayenne  and  mustard. 

144.  Garlic  Sauce. — Though  many  dislike  the  flavor  of  this 
root,  yet  those  that  like  it  ought  not  to  be  deprived  of  it.     Put 
in  a  stewpan  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  a  little  tomatos 
if  handy  ;  boil  it  a  few  minutes,  scrape  half  a  clove  of  garlic, 
put  it  in  with  a  little  sugar,  and  serve. 


145.  Mint  Sauce  for  Lamb. — Take  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  leaves  of  green  mint,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  brown 
sugar,  and  put  into  a  basin  with  half  a  pint  of  brown  vinegar ; 
stir  it  well  up,  add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  serve. 


146.  Liaison  of  Eggs. — Break  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a 
basin,  with  which  mix  six  spoonfuls  of  milk,  or  eight  of  cream  ; 
pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  use  when  directed. 


SAUCES.  69 


147.  Anchovy  Butter  Sauce. — Put  into  a  stewpan  eight 
spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  or  three  of  broth ;  when  boiling,  add 
one  ounce  of  anchovy  butter ;  stir  continually  till  melted : 
serve  where  directed. 


148.  Soyer's  Sauce. — Put  six  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze  into  a 
stewpan  ;  when  hot,  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Soyer's  Gentleman's 
Sauce ;   let  boil,  and  serve  with  either  chop,  steak,  cotelettes, 
poultry,  or  game. 

149.  Papillotte  Sauce. — Scrape  half  an  ounce  of  fat  bacon, 
put  it  in  a  pan  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  stir 
over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of 
brown  sauce,  and  boil ;   then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  mush- 
rooms chopped,  one  ditto  of  parsley,  a  little  nutmeg,  a  little 
pepper  and  sugar,  a  little  scraped  garlic ;   reduce  till  rather 
thickish  ;    put  on  dish  till  cold,  and  use  it  for  anything  you 
may  put  up  "  en papillotte" 


150.  Tomato  Sauce. — If  fresh,  put  six  in  a  stewpan  ;  hav- 
ing removed  the  stalk,  and  squeezed  them  in  the  hand  to  re- 
move pips,  &c.,  add  half  an  onion,  sliced,  a  little  thyme,  bay- 
leaf,  half  an  ounce  of  celery,  one  ounce  of  ham,  same  of  butter, 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  same  of  salt,  a  quarter  one  of  pepper ; 
set  on  fire  to  stew  gently ;  when  all  tender,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth,  boil  five  minutes, 
add  a  little  cayenne,  taste  if  highly  seasoned,  pass  it  through 
sieve  or  tammy,  put  it  back  in  stewpan,  until  it  adheres  rather 
thick  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  and  use  it  for  any  kind  of  meat 
or  poultry.  If  preserved  tomato,  proceed  as  for  poivrade  sauce 
respecting  the  vegetables,  omitting  the  vinegar,  add  the  tomato, 
instead  of  brown  sauce,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  broth 
to  bring  it  to  a  proper  thickness,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  serve  as  above. 


151.  Curry  Sauce. — This  I  generally  keep  ready-made  in  the 
larder,  being  very  fond  of  what  I  consider  such  wholesome  food  as 
curry  ;  but  not  liking  to  be  troubled  with  making  it  often,  I  cause  mv 
cook  to  prepare  a  certain  quantity  at  a  time.  Mr.  B.  is  very  partial  to 
curry,  but  he  likes  it  in  winter ;  for  my  part,  I  prefer  it  in  summer.  After 


70  SAUCES. 


having  partaken  of  some  one  very  hot  summer's  day,  I  felt  quite  cooL 
Capt.  White,  who  has  been  nearly  twenty  years  in  the  East  Indies,  tells 
me  that  it  will  produce  that  refreshing  effect ;  but  I  can  enjoy  it  in  any 


Put  into  a  pan  four  good-sized  onions,  sliced,  and  two  of 
peeled  apples,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  of 
lean  ham,  a  blade  of  mace,  four  peppercorns,  two  bay-leaves, 
two  sprigs  of  thyme ;  stir  them  over  a  moderate  fire  until  the 
onions  become  brown  and  tender,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  best  curry  powder,  one  of  vinegar,  two  of  flour,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  sugar ;  moisten  it  with  a  quart  of  broth 
or  milk,  or  even  water,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  glaze ;  boil 
till  in  a  pulp,  and  adhering  rather  thickly  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon ;  pass  all  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy,  give  it  another 
boil  for  a  few  minutes,  put  it  in  a  basin,  and  use  when  required. 
Any  kind  of  meat,  poultry,  and  fish,  or  parts  of  game,  is  excel- 
lent warmed  in  this  sauce,  and  served  with  well-boiled  and  dry 
rice.  I  have  kept  this  sauce  in  a  cool  place  in  the  winter  for  a 
month,  boiling  it  now  and  then.  The  quantity  of  powder  may 
be  omitted,  and  a  spoonful  of  curry  paste  used,  or  some  man- 
goes. (See  Curries.) 

152.  A  very  good  and  useful  White  Sauce  (quite  new). — 
Put  a  quart  of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan  of  a  proper  size  on  a 
fire  ;  stir  continually  until  reduced  to  one  third ;  put  two  yolks 
of  eggs  in  a  basin,  stir  them  well  up,  add  your  sauce  gradually, 
keep  stirring,  put  back  in  stewpan,  set  it  to  boil  for  a  few  min- 
utes longer,  then  add  one  pint  of  boiling  milk,  which  will  bring 
it  to  its  proper  thickness ;  that  is,  when  it  adheres  transparently 
to  the  back  of  a  spoon ;  pass  through  a  tammy  into  a  basin, 
stir  now  and  then  till  cold ;  if  not  immediately  required,  and  I 
have  any  stock  left,  I  use  half  of  it  with  half  of  milk.  I  also 
try  this  way,  which  is  very  convenient :  when  the  yolks  are  in, 
and  well  boiled,  I  put  it  in  a  large  gallipot,  and  when  cold, 
cover  with  pieces  of  paper,  and  it  will  keep  good  in  winter  for 
two  or  three  weeks,  and  above  a  week  in  summer ;  and  when  I 
want  to  use  a  little  of  it,  I  only  take  a  spoonful  or  two  and 
warm  it  on  the  fire,  and  add  enough  milk  or  white  broth  to 
bring  it  to  a  proper  thickness,  and  use  where  required.  This 
sauce  is  very  smooth,  and  never,  turns  greasy ;  it  lies  beauti- 


SAUCES. 


fully  on  fowl,  or  any  white  made  dish  ;  the  addition  of  a  drop 
of  cream  gives  it  a  very  fine  white  appearance. 

153.  Onion  Puree  Sauce.  —  Peel  and  cut  six  onions  in  slices  ; 
put  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  a  half  one  of  pepper  ;  place  on  a 
slow  fire  to  simmer  till  in  a  pulp,  stirring  them  now  and  then 
to  prevent  them  getting  brown,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  a  pint  of  milk,  and  boil  till  a  proper  thickness,  which 
should  be  a  little  thicker  than  melted  butter  ;  pass  through  a 
tammy,  warm  again,  and  serve  with  mutton  cutlets,  chops,  rab- 
bits, or  fowl  ;  by  not  passing  it,  it  will  do  for  roast  mutton  and 
boiled  rabbit  as  onion  sauce. 


154.  Puree  of  Cauliflower  Sauce.  —  Boil  a  cauliflower  well  in 
three  pints  of  water,  in  which  you  have  previously  put  one 
ounce  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt  ;  when  done,  chop  it 
up,  having  prepared  and  slowly  cooked  in  a  stewpan  an  onion 
sliced,  a  little  celery,  half  a  turnip,  one  ounce  of  ham,  two  of 
butter,  a  little  bay-leaf,  mace,  add  then  the  cauliflower,  stir 
round,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  moisten  as  above  for  onions, 
pass  and  finish  the  same  way. 

155.  Jerusalem  Artichoke  Sauce.  —  Peel  twelve,  and  well 
wash,  boil  till  tender,  and  proceed  as  above. 


156.  Turnip  Sauce  Puree.  —  Boil  six  middle-sized  ones, 
press  all  the  water  you  can  out  of  them,  and  proceed  as  the 
above. 


15*7.  White  Cucumber  Puree.  —  Peel  two,  or  one  large  one, 
cut  in  slices,  put  in  the  stewpan  with  the  same  vegetables,  <fec., 
as  for  the  cauliflower;  when  tender,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  three  gills  of  milk  or  broth,  boil,  and  finishing  as  the 
cauliflower. 


158.  Sorrel  Sauce,  or  Puree. — Wash  well  four  handfuls  of 


72  SAUCES. 


sorrel,  put  it  nearly  dry  into  a  middle-sized  stewpan,  with  a 
little  butter ;  let  it  melt,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  one  of  pepper,  moisten  to  a  thick  puree, 
with  milk,  or  broth,  or  cream  ;  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  put  it 
back  in  a  stewpan,  warm  again,  add  two  whole  eggs,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  well,  and  serve  where  directed. 


159.  Spinach  Puree  (see  Vegetables,  2d  Course). — Endive 
is  often  used  in  France,  and  called  chicoree.  This  puree  may 
be  made  like  the  cauliflower,  or  only  plainly  chopped,  put  into 
a  pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  gill  of  white  sauce,  a  little 
grated  nutmeg,  and  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  sugar. 


160.  Stewed  Peas  and  Sprew  Grass. — For  cutlets,  sweet- 
breads, fowls,  or  any  dishes,  they  are  applicable  (see  Vegeta- 
bles, second  course),  also  French  beans,  only  using  one  third  of 
the  quantity  that  you  would  for  a  made  dish  for  an  entremet. 


161.  Scooped  Jerusalem  Artichokes. — Scoop  with  a  round 
cutter  twenty-four  pieces  of  artichoke,  of  the  size  of  half  an  inch 
in  diameter,  wash  them,  put  them  in  a  small  stewpan  with  half 
an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sugar  ;  put  it 
on  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
white  sauce,  six  of  white  broth  or  milk,  let  them  simmer  till 
tender,  skim,  mix  a  yolk  of  an  egg  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
milk,  pour  in  stewpan,  and  move  it  round  very  quick,  and 
serve ;  it  must  not  be  too  thick,  and  the  artichokes  must  be 
well  done ;  they  must  not  be  in  puree ;  they  are  good  with  or 
served  under  any  white  meat. 


162.  Scooped  Turnips. — Proceed  exactly  the    same,  only 
serve  a  little  thinner :  they  will  not  do  if  stringy. 


163.  Button   Onions. — The    same,   only  make    the   sauce 
thinner,  and  boil  longer,  according  to  their  size. 


SAUCES.  73 


164.  Young    Carrots. — Scrape  and  trim  to  shape  twenty 
small  and  young  carrots,  pass  in  sugar  and  butter,  add  white 
or  brown  sauce,  but  keep  it  thinner,  as  it  requires  a  longer  time 
boiling ;  when  tender,  if  for  white  sauce,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  liaison,  stir,  and  serve. 

165.  White  Mushroom  Sauce. — Use  small  white  ones;  cut 
the  dark  part  out  and  remove  the  tail,  wash  in  several  waters, 

Eut  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter,  salt,  pepper,  juice  of 
;mon,  saute  it  for  a  few  minutes,  add  a  gill  of  white  sauce, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  broth,  milk,  or  water ;    boil  and  serve 
under  any  white  meat. 

166.  White  Cucumber  Sauce. — Peel  two  cucumbers,  divide 
each  lengthways  into  four,  remove  the  pips,  and  cut  into  pieces 
one  inch  long ;   add,  in  stewpan  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  half  of  salt,  let  it  stew  on  the  fire  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  add  a  gill  of  white  sauce,  six  spoonfuls  of  milk, 
broth,  or  water,  simmer  gently  and  skim,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  liaison,  and  serve  where  directed,  but  observe  that  all  these 
garnitures  ought  to  be  served  under  the  meat  and  over  poultry. 


167.  Ragout  of  Quenelles. — Make  twelve  nice  small  que- 
nelles (see  Quenelles),  warm  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  in  which 
you  have  put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  eschalot ;  when  well  done,  pour  on  the  liaison  over  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  serve.  A  few  English  truffles  or  mush- 
rooms may  be  added  to  this  sauce. 


168.  Maitre  d1  Hotel  Sauce. — Put  eight  spoonfuls  of  white 
sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  of  white  stock  or  milk ;  boil  it 
five  minutes,  then  stir  in  two  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter ; 
stir  it  quickly  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  but  do 
not  let  the  sauce  boil  after  the  butter  is  in  ;  this  sauce  should 
only  be  made  at  the  time  of  serving. 


169.  Green  Peas  Stewed. — Put  a  pint  of  young  peas,  boiled 
very  green,  into  a  stewpan,  with  three  table-spoonftils  of  white 

4 


74  SAUCES. 


sauce,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  and  two 
button  onions,  with  parsley,  tied  together  ;  boil  them  ten  min- 
utes ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liaison,  stir  it  in  quickly,  and 
serve. 

170.  Green  Peas,  with  Bacon. — Put  a  pint  of  well-boiled 
peas  into  a  stewpan,  with  five  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  two  of 
brown  gravy,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  two  button  onions,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley ;  let  it  boil  about  ten  minutes  ;  have  ready 
braised  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  cut  it  in  dice 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  add  it  to  the  peas,  take  out 
the  onions  and  parsley,  season  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  ;  mix  well  together,  stew  twenty  minutes, 
and  serve. 


171.  Blanched  Mushrooms. — Get  a  pottle  of  fresh  mush- 
rooms, cut  off  the  dirt,  and  likewise  the  heads  (reserving  the 
stalk  for  chopping),  wash  the  heads  in  a  basin  of  clean  water, 
take  them  out  and  drain  in  a  sieve  ;  put  into  a  stewpan  two 
wine-glasses  of  cold  water,  one  ounce  of  butter,  the  juice  of  half 
a  good  lemon,  and  a  little  salt ;  turn  or  peel  each  head  neatly, 
and  put  them  into  the  stewpan  immediately,  or  they  will  turn 
black  ;  set  your  stewpan  on  a  brisk  fire,  let  them  boil  quickly 
five  minutes,  put  them  into  a  basin  ready  for  use ;  chop  the 
stalks  and  peel  very  fine,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  liquor  the  mushrooms  have  been  boiled  in  ; 
let  them  simmer  three  minutes,  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  use 
where  indicated. 

Observe  :  Turning  or  peeling  mushrooms  is  an  art  that  prac- 
tice alone  can  attain ;  if  they  are  very  fresh  and  white,  wash 
them  quickly,  and  wipe  them  on  a  cloth  ;  throw  them  into  the 
liquid  above  mentioned. 

172.  Onions  Stuffed. — Peel  twelve  large  onions,  cut  a  piece 
off  at  the  top  and  bottom  to  give  them  a  flat  appearance,  and 
which  adds  a  better  flavor  if  left,  blanch  them  in  four  quarts 
of  boiling  water  twenty  minutes,  then  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to 
dry  ;  take  the  middle  out  of  each  onion,  and  fill  them  with  veal 
forcemeat  (with  a  little  chopped  eschalot,  parsley,  and  mush- 


SOUPS.  75 


room,  mixed  in  it),  and  put  them  in  a  saute-pan  well  buttered, 
cover  them  with  white  broth,  let  them  simmer  over  a  slow  fire 
until  covered  with  a  glaze,  and  tender ;  turn  them  over  and 
serve  where  required. 

173.  Hot  Tartar  Sauce. — Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  white 
sauce  in  a  small  stewpan,  four  of  broth  or  milk,  boil  a  few  min- 
utes, then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  tartar  sauce  (see  Salads) 
in  it,  stir  it  very  quick  with  a  wooden  spoon,  make  it  quite  hot 
but  not  boiling  ;  put  it  on  a  dish,  and  serve  where  described. 

174.  Mephistophelian  Sauce. — Do  not  be  afraid  of  the  title,  for 
it  has  nothing  diabolical  about  it ;  the  first  time  I  tried  it  was  at  Mr. 
B.'s  birthday  party  ;  and  some  of  his  friends  having  over  and  over  again 
drank  his  health,  till  he  had  hardly  any  health  left  to  carry  him  to  the 
drawing-room,  where  the  coffee  was  waiting,  about  eleven  o'clock,  hav- 
ing asked  for  some  anchovy  sandwiches,  but,  from  a  mistake,  not  having 
any  in  the  house,  I  composed  this  ravigotante   sauce,  which   partly 
brought  them  back  to  their  senses. 

I  cut  up  the  remains  of  the  turkey,  rubbed  some  mustard 
over  it,  sprinkled  a  little  salt  and  plenty  of  cayenne,  put  it  on  the 
gridiron  on  the  fire,  and  made  the  following  sauce  :  I  chopped 
six  eschalots,  washed  and  pressed  them  in  the  corner  of  a  clean 
cloth,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  one  and  a  half  wine- 
glassful  of  Chili  vinegar,  a  chopped  clove,  a  piece  of  garlic,  two 
bay-leaves,  an  ounce  of  glaze,  and  boiled  all  together  for  ten 
minutes  ;  then  added  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  a  lit- 
tle sugar,  and  ten  of  gravy  or  brown  sauce ;  boiled  it  a  few 
minutes  longer,  then  added  a  pat  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  in, 
removed  the  bay-leaf,  and  poured  over  turkey,  and  served. 


SOUPS. 

IN  France,  no  dinner  is  served  without  soup,  and  no  good  soup  is  sup- 
posed to  be  made  without  the  pot-au-feu  (see  No.  215),  it  being  the  na- 
tional dish  of  the  middle  and  poorer  classes  of  that  country  ;  thinking 
it  might  be  of  service  to  the  working  classes,  by  showing  the  benefits  to 
be  derived  from  more  frequently  partaking  of  a  hot  dinner,  as  I  have 


76  SOUPS. 


previously  observed,  especially  in  a  cold  climate  like  ours.  Clear  light 
soups  are  very  delicate,  and  in  this  country  more  fit  for  the  wealthy ; 
whilst  the  more  substantial  thick  soups,  such  as  mock  turtle,  ox-tail,  peas, 
<fec.,  are  more  in  vogue,  consequent  to  being  better  adapted  to  the  million  ; 
therefore,  after  giving  a  few  series  of  clear  soups,  I  shall  proceed  to 
give  a  greater  variety  of  the  thicker  sorts,  being  careful  that  every  re- 
ceipt shall  be  so  plain  as  to  give  a  correct  idea  of  its  cost. 


175.  Stock  for  all  kinds  of  Soup. — Procure  a  knuckle  of 
veal  about  six  pounds  in  weight,  which  cut  into  pieces  about 
the  size  of  an  egg,  as  also  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  or  bacon ; 
then  rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  upon  the  bottom  of 
the  stewpan  (capable  of  holding  about  two  gallons),  into  which 
put  the  meat  and  bacon,  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  two  ounces 
of  salt,  three  middle-sized  onions,  with  two  cloves  in  each,  one 
turnip,  a  carrot,  half  a  leek,  and  half  a  head  of  celery  ;  put  the 
cover  upon  the  stewpan,  which  place  over  a  sharp  fire,  occasion- 
ally stirring  round  its  contents  with  a  wooden  spoon,  until  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  thickish  glaze, 
which  will  lightly  adhere  to  the  spoon  ;  fill  up  the  stewpan 
with  cold  water,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  draw  it 
to  the  corner  of  the  fire,  where  it  must  gently  simmer  for  three 
hours,  carefully  skimming   off  every  particle  of  grease   and 
scum ;  pass  your  stock  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use  when  required. 

The  above  will  make  a  delicious  broth  for  all  kinds  of  clear 
soups,  and  of  course  for  thick  soups  or  purees  ;  by  boiling  it 
rather  faster  about  five  minutes  before  passing,  you  will  be  bet- 
ter enabled  to  take  off  every  particle  of  grease  from  the  sur- 
face. In  making  a  stock  of  beef  proceed  as  above,  but  allow 
double  the  time  to  simmer ;  mutton  or  lamb,  if  any  trimmings, 
might  also  be  used ;  if  beef,  use  seven  pounds  ;  if  mutton, 
eight ;  or  lamb,  seven,  of  course  bones  and  all  included  ;  with 
care,  this  broth  would  be  quite  clear.  To  give  a  little  color,  a's 
required  for  all  clear  soups,  use  a  little  brown  gravy  or  brown- 
ing, but  never  attempt  to  brown  it  by  letting  it  color  at  ths 
bottom  of  the  stewpan,  for  in  that  case  you  would  destroy  the 
greater  part  of  the  osmazome. 

176.  Another  way,  more  economical. — Instead  of  cutting  up 
the  knuckle  of  veal  so  small,  cut  it  in  four  or  five  pieces  only, 


SOUPS.  77 


and  leave  the  bacon  in  one  piece;  then,  when  the  broth  is 
passed,  take  out  the  veal,  which  is  very  excellent  served  with  a 
little  of  the  broth  for  gravy,  and  the  bacon  with  a  few  greens 
upon  another  dish.  This  is  as  I  always  eat  it  myself;  but  some 
persons  would  probably  prefer  a  little  parsley-and-butter  sauce 
or  sharp  sauce,  served  with  it.  Should  any  of  the  veal  be  left 
until  cold,  it  might  be  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  gradually  warmed 
in  either  of  the  before-mentioned  sauces.  Should  you  make 
your  stock  from  the  leg  or  shin  of  beef,  stew  it  double  the  time, 
preserve  the  vegetables  boiled  in  the  stock,  and  serve  with  beef, 
or  serve  the  beef  with  some  nice  sharp  sauce  over ;  the  remainder, 
if  cold,  may  also  be  hashed  in  the  ordinary  way.  If  of  mutton, 
and  you  have  used  the  scrags  of  the  neck,  the  breast,  head,  or 
the  chump  of  the  loin,  keep  them  in  as  large  pieces  as  possible ; 
and,  when  done,  serve  with  a  few  mashed  turnips,  and  caper 
sauce,  separately ;  if  any  remaining  until  cold,  mince  it.  Lamb 
would  be  seldom  used  for  stock,  being  much  too  expensive ;  but 
in  case  of  an  abundance,  which  there  sometimes  is  in  the  country, 
proceed  the  same  as  for  mutton. 


177.  Brown  Gravies. — Rub  an  ounce  of  butter  over  the 
bottom  of  a  stewpan  which  would  hold  about  three  quarts; 
have  ready  peeled  four  onions,  cut  them  into  thick  slices,  with 
which  cover  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan ;  over  these  lay  about 
two  pounds  of  beef  from  the  leg  or  shin,  cut  into  thin  slices, 
with  the  bone  chopped  very  small,  add  a  small  carrot,  a  turnip 
cut  in  slices,  and  a  couple  of  cloves ;  set  the  stewpan  upon  a 
gentle  fire  for  ten  minutes,  shaking  it  round  occasionally  to  pre- 
vent burning ;  after  which,  let  it  go  upon  a  slow  fire  for  upwards 
of  an  hour,  until  the  bottom  is  covered  with  a  blackish  glaze, 
but  not  burnt ;  when  properly  done,  and  ready  for  filling  up, 
you  will  perceive  the  fat  that  runs  from  the  meat  quite  clear, 
fill  up  the  stewpan  with  cold  water,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ; 
and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  set  it  on  a  corner  of  the  fire, 
where  let  it  simmer  gently  about  an  hour,  skimming  off  all  the 
fat  and  scum  which  may  rise  to  the  surface ;  when  done,  pass 
it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  put  by  to  use  for  the 
following  purposes : — For  every  kind  of  roast  meat,  poultry,  or 
game  especially ;  also  to  give  a  good  color  to  soups  and  sauces. 
This  gravy  will  keep  several  days,  by  boiling  it  every  other  day. 


78  SOUPS. 


Although  beef  is  the  most  proper  meat  for  the  above  purpose, 
it  may  be  made  of  veal,  mutton,  lamb,  or  even  with  fresh  pork, 
rabbits,  or  poultry. 

178.  Browning. — When  in  business,  and  not  so  much  time 
to  devote  to  the  kitchen,  I  used  to  make  shift  with  a  browning 
from  the  following  receipt,  using,  however,  but  a  very  few  drops  : 
put  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  into  a  middling-sized  stew- 
pan,  which  place  over  a  slow  fire ;  when  beginning  to  melt,  stir 
it  round  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  getting  quite  black,  then 
pour  over  half  a  pint  of  cold  water :  leave  it  to  dissolve,  and 
take  a  little  for  use  when  required. 

179.  Glaze  is  an  almost  indispensable  article  in  a  cuisine 
bourgeoise,  and  should  be  kept  by  all  persons  in  the  middle 
classes  of  life,  the  advantage  being  that  it  will  keep  for  months 
together,  is  very  simple  to  make,  and  is  always  useful  in  cookeiy, 
however  humble ;  in  fact,  with  it  you  can  dress  a  very  good 
dinner  with  very  little  trouble. 

Make  a  stock  as  directed  in  No.  175,  but  omitting  the  salt, 
which,  when  done,  pass  through  a  cloth  into  a  basin ;  then  fill 
the  stewpan  up  a  second  time  with  hot  water,  and  let  boil  four 
hours  longer  to  obtain  all  the  succulence  from  the  meat,  then 
pass  it  through  a  cloth  the  same  as  the  first ;  then  pour  both 
stocks  in  a  large  stewpan  together,  set  it  over  the  fire,  and  let 
it  boil  as  fast  as  possible,  leaving  a  large  spoon  in,  to  stir  occa- 
sionally and  prevent  its  boiling  over ;  when  reduced  to  about 
three  pints,  pour  it  into  a  smaller  stewpan,  set  again  to  boil  at 
the  corner,  skimming  well  if  required ;  when  reduced  to  a  quart, 
place  it  quite  over  the  fire,  well  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  forming  a  thickish  glaze  (which  will  adhere  to  the  spoon) 
of  a  fine  yellowish-brown  color ;  pour  it  into  a  basin,  or,  if  for 
keeping  any  time,  into  a  long  bladder,  from  which  cut  a  slice 
and  use  where  directed. 

Where,  however,  only  a  small  quantity  is  required,  reduce 
only  the  second  stock,  using  the  first  for  either  soup  or  sauce ; 
but  in  that  case  the  salt  must  not  be  omitted  from  the  first  stock, 
but  from  the  second  only.  Veal  at  all  times  makes  the  best 
glaze,  but  any  kinds  of  meat,  game,  or  poultry  will  prod  uce  more 
or  less. 


SOUPS.  79 


180.  To  clarify  Stock,  if  required. — In  case,  by  some  acci- 
dent, your  stock  should  not  be  clear,  put  it  (say  three  quarts) 
into  a  stewpan,  and  place  it  over  a  good  fire,  skim  well,  and, 
when  boiling,  have  ready  the  whites  of  three  eggs  (carefully 
separated  from  their  yolks),  to  which  add  half  a  pint  of  water ; 
whisk  well  together ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  the  boiling  stock 
gradually,  still  whisking  the  eggs ;  then  whisk  the  boiling  stock, 
pouring  the  whites  of  eggs,  &c.,  in  whilst  so  doing,  which  con- 
tinue until  nearly  boiling  again,  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  let  it 
remain  until  the  whites  of  eggs  separate  themselves,  pass  it 
through  a  clean  fine  cloth  into  a  basin ;  this  must  be  taken  as 
a  rule  for  every  kind  of  clear  soup,  which  must  be  strictly  followed 
by  every  person  wishing  to  profit  by  this  little  work.     These 
principles,  once  learned,  would  be  useful  at  all  times,  and  save 
a  great  deal  of  useless  reference  in  the  perusal  of  these  receipts  ; 
and  no  persons  can  make  themselves  answerable  for  the  success 
of  any  individual  in  making  soups  if  the  instructions  recom- 
mended be  not  strictly  followed.     The  following  rule  should  be 
therefore  punctually  attended  to. 

All  clear  soups  ought  not  to  be  too  strong  of  meat,  and  must 
be  of  a  light  brown  sherry  or  straw  color.  All  white  or  brown 
thick  soups  should  be  rather  thin,  with  just  sufficient  consistency 
to  adhere  lightly  to  a  spoon  when  hot,  soups  of  fish,  poultry,  or 
game  especially.  All  purees,  no  matter  whether  of  meat  or 
vegetables,  require  to  be  somewhat  thicker,  which  may  be  as- 
certained by  its  adhering  more  thickly  to  the  spoon.  Every 
Italian  soup  must  be  very  clear,  rather  stronger  of  meat,  and 
the  color  of  pale  sherry. 

By  following  the  few  foregoing  observations,  experience  will  teach 
you  volumes ;  for  as  there  is  a  great  difference  in  the  quality  of  different 
materials  (flour,  for  instance,  which,  if  strong,  would  tend  to  thicken,  but, 
if  weak,  actually  almost  turns  to  water  by  boiling),  therefore  your  judg- 
ment, with  the  above  few  important  remarks,  will  make  you  more  per- 
fect than  the  most  precise  quantities  of  weights  and  measurements,  upon 
that  important  point. 

181.  Clear   Vegetable  Soup. — Peel  a  middling-sized  carrot 
and  turnip,  which  cut  first  into  slices,  then  into  small  square 
pieces  about  the  size  of  dice ;  peel  also  eighteen  button  onions ; 
wash  the  whole  in  cold  water,  and  drain  them  upon  a  sieve ; 
when  dry,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter 


80  SOUPS. 


and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar ;  set  them  upon  a  very 
sharp  fire  for  ten  minutes,  tossing  them  over  every  now  and 
then  until  the  vegetables  become  covered  with  a  thin  shiny 
glaze,  which  may  take  rather  more  than  the  before-mentioned 
time ;  care,  however,  must  be  taken,  for  should  you  let  them 
get  brown,  the  flavor  of  the  soup  would  be  spoiled ;  whilst,  upon 
the  other  hand,  if  put  in  whilst  surrounded  with  a  whitish  liquid, 
your  soup  would  look  white  and  unsightly ;  with  a  little  atten- 
tion, however,  success  is  certain ;  and,  once  accomplished,  there 
would  be  no  difficulty  in  making  any  vegetable  soups  or  sauce, 
therefore  it  is  very  desirable  to  know  how  to  do  it  properly. 
When  done,  pour  two  quarts  of  clear  broth  over  them,  set  it- 
upon  the  fire,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  place  it  at 
the  corner  to  simmer,  until  the  vegetables  are  quite  tender  (the 
onions  especially),  carefully  skimming  off  all  the  butter  as  it 
rises  to  the  surface ;  it  will  require  about  half  an  hour's  simmer- 
ing, and  there  should  be  half  a  pound  of  vegetables  to  two 
quarts  of  stock ;  taste  if  properly  seasoned,  which  it  ought  to 
be  with  the  above  proportions,  but  use  your  own  judgment  ac- 
cordingly. 

By  following  the  last  process  correctly,  the  only  difference  to 
be  made  in  those  descriptions  of  soup  is  in  the  shape  the  vege- 
tables are  cut. 


182.  Printaniere  Soup. — Cut  a  small  quantity  of  vegetables 
as  in  the  last,  but  rather  less  carrot  and  turnip,  introducing  a 
little  celery,  leek,  and  young  spring  onions,  instead  of  the  button 
onions ;  proceed  exactly  as  before,  but  ten  minutes  before  taking 
it  from  the  fire,  wash  a  few  leaves  of  sorrel,  which  cut  small  and 
put  into  the  soup,  with  six  sprigs  of  chervil ;  in  summer,  a  few 
fresh-boiled  peas  or  French  beans  served  in  it  is  an  improve- 
ment. 

In  whatever  shape  you  may  cut  the  vegetables  for  soup,  al- 
ways be  cautious  not  to  cut  some  pieces  larger  than  others,  and 
the  whole  of  them  rather  small  than  large ;  for  if  some  pieces 
should  be  small  and  others  large,  the  smaller  pieces  would  be 
quite  in  puree,  whilst  the  larger  ones  would  still  be  quite  hard, 
which  would  cause  your  soup  not  only  to  eat  badly,  but  give  it 
an  unsightly  appearance,  for  the  vegetable  boiled  to  a  puree 
would  make  the  soup  thick.  The  above  remark,  although  simple, 
is  still  very  important. 


SOUPS.  81 


183.  Julienne  Soup. — This  soup  is  entirely  the  hereditary 
property  of  France,  and  is  supposed  to  be  so  called  from  the 
months  of  June  and  July,  when  all  vegetables  are  in  full  season ; 
and  to  make  it  in  reality  as  originally  made,  a  small  quantity 
of  every  description  of  vegetables  should  be  used,  including 
lettuce,  sorrel,  and  tarragon ;  however,  some  few  sorts  of  vege- 
tables mixed  together  make  a  most  estimable  soup.  Weigh 
half  a  pound  of  the  vegetables  in  fair  proportions  to  each  other ; 
that  is,  carrots,  turnips,  onions,  celery,  and  leeks,  which  cut  into 
small  fillets  an  inch  in  length,  and  of  the  thickness  of  a  trussing- 
needle ;  when  done,  wash  dry,  and  pass  them  in  butter  and  sugar 
as  before,  proceeding  the  same  with  the  soup,  adding  just  before 
it  is  done  a  little  sorrel,  cabbage-lettuce,  and  chervil  or  peas,  if 
handy,  but  it  would  be  excellent  without  either. 


184.  Clear  Turnip   Soup. — Cut,  with  a  round  vegetable 
scoop,  about  forty  pieces  of  turnip,  of  the  shape  and  size  of 
small  marbles,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  sugar  and  but- 
ter as  before,  but  fry  them  of  a  light  brownish  color,  and  finish  the 
soup,  as  in  the  previous  receipts.     A  tablespoonful  of  Italian 
paste,  previously  half  boiled  in  water,  then  drained  and  finished 
in  the  soup,  is  also  an  improvement. 

185.  Clear  Artichoke  Soup. — Peel   twelve  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, which  well  wash,  then  cut  as  many  round  scoops  as 
possible,  the  same  as  in  the  last,  proceeding  exactly  the  same. 
The  remainder  of  either  turnips,  artichokes,  or  carrots  may  be 
boiled,  and  mashed  with  a  little  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  and 
served  as  a  vegetable,  or  reserved  to  make  a  soup  puree ;  the 
remains  of  other  vegetables  from  the  previous  soups  should  also 
be  reserved  for  flavoring  of  stock,  instead  of  using  the  fresh 
vegetables. 

186.  Vermicelli. — Put  a  quart  of  clear  stock  into  a  stewpan 
upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  two  ounces  of  vermicelli ; 
boil  gently  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


187.  Italian  Paste. — Procure  some  small  Italian  paste,  in 
4* 


82  SOUPS. 


stars,  rings,  or  any  other  shape,  but  small ;  put  on  a  quart  of 
stock,  and  when  boiling,  add  two  ounces  of  the  paste ;  boil 
twenty  minutes,  or  rather  more,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


188.  Semoulina. — When  the  stock  is  boiling,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  semoulina ;  boil  twenty  minutes,  and  it  is 
then  done.  Proceed  the  same  also  with  tapioca  and  sago. 


189.  Macaroni. — Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni,  in 
a  quart  of  water,  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  it  off,  and  throw 
it  into  two  quarts  of  boiling  stock  ;  let  simmer  gently  for  half 
an  hour,  when  serve,  with  grated  cheese,  upon  a  plate  sepa- 
rately. 

190.  Rice. — Well  wash  two  ounces  of  the  best  rice,  strain 
off  the  water,  put  the  rice  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  cold 
stock,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  let  simmer  about  half  an  hour, 
until  the  rice  is  very  tender,  but  not  in  pulp. 

191.  Mutton  Broth. — Any  description  of  trimmings  of  mut- 
ton may  be  used  for  broth,  but  the  scrag  ends  of  the  neck  are 
usually  chosen ;  put  two  scrags  into  a  stewpan  (having  previ- 
ously jointed  the  bones),  with  three  onions,  three  turnips,  and 
one  carrot,  fill  up  the  stewpan  with  a  gallon  of  water,  and  place 
it  upon  the  fire ;  when  boiling  set  it  at  the  corner,  where  let  it 
simmer  for  three  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed ;  then  cut  a 
small  carrot,  two  turnips,  an  onion,  with  a  little  leek  and  celery, 
into  small  square  pieces,  which  put  into  another  stewpan,  with 
a  wineglassful  of  pearl-barley  ;  skim  every  particle  of  fat  from 
the  broth,  which  pour  through  a  hair  sieve  over  them ;  let  the 
whole  boil  gently  at  the  comer  of  the  fire  until  the  barley  is 
tender,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve ;  the  meat  may  be  trimmed 
into  neat  pieces  and  served  with  the  broth,  or  separately  with 
melted  butter  and  parsley,  or  onion  sauce.     Half  or  even  a 
quarter  of  the  above  quantity  can  be  made  by  reducing  the 
ingredients  in  proportion. 

192.  Irish  Soup  made   of  Mutton   Broth. — This  soup  is 


SOUPS.  83 


made  similar  to  the  last,  adding  ten  or  twelve  mealy  potatoes, 
cut  into  large  dice,  omitting  the  other  vegetables,  which,  being 
boiled  to  a  puree,  thickens  the  broth;  just  before  serving, 
throw  in  twenty  heads  of  parsley,  and  at  the  same  time  add  a 
few  flowers  of  marigold,  which  will  really  give  it  a  very  pleas- 
ing flavor. 



193.  Scotch  Cock-a-leelcie. — Trim  two  or  three  bunches  of 
fine  winter  leeks,  cutting  off  the  roots  and  part  of  the  heads, 
then  split  each  in  halves  lengthwise,  and  each  half  into  three, 
which  wash  well  in  two  or  three  waters,  then  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  stock  previously  made  as  directed  (No.  175), 
and  a  fowl  trussed  as  for  boiling ;  let  the  whole  simmer  very 
gently  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  for  three  hours,  keeping  it  well 
skimmed,  seasoning  a  little  if  required ;    half  an  hour  before 
serving  add  two  dozen  French  plums,  without  breaking  them ; 
when  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the  fowl,  which  cut  into  neat 
pieces,  place  them  in  a  tureen,  and  pour  the  leeks  and  broth 
over,  the  leeks  being  then  partly  in  puree ;  if  too  thick,  how- 
ever, add  a  drop  more  broth  or  water.     Should  the  leeks  hap- 
pen to  be  old  and  strong,  it  would  be  better  to  blanch  them 
five  minutes  in  a  gallon  of  boiling  water  previous  to  putting  them 
in  the  stock. 

I  prefer  a  young  fowl ;  but,  should  an  old  one  be  most 
handy,  stew  it  a  short  time  in  the  stock  before  passing  it.  This 
soup  will  keep  good  several  days,  and  would  improve  by  warm- 
ing a  second  time. 

194.  Ox-tail  Soup. — Cut  up  two  ox-tails,  separating  them 
at  the  joints,  put  a  small  piece  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a 
stewpan,  then  put  in  the  ox-tails,  with  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  three 
onions,  a  head  of  celery,  a  leek,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme, 
and  bay-leaf;  and  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  twelve  grains  of 
whole  pepper,  set  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  thickish  brown 
glaze,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  stir  it  well  in,  and 
fill  up  the  stewpan  with  three  quarts  of  water,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  occasionally  until  boiling,  when  set  it 
upon  the  corner  of  the  stove,  skim  well,  add  a  gill  of  good 
brown  gravy,  or  a  few  drops  of  browning,  and  let  simmer  until 


84  SOUPS. 


the  tails  are  stewed  very  tender,  the  flesh  coming  easily  from 
the  bones,  then  take  them  out  immediately,  and  put  them  into 
your  tureen ;  pass  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  over  them, 
add  a  head  of  celery,  previously  cut  small,  and  boiled  in  a  little 
stock,  and  serve. 

Ox-tail  soup  may  also  be  made  clear  by  omitting  the  flour, 
and  serving  with  vegetables,  as  directed  for  the  clear  vegetable 
soup  (No.  181). 

195.  Ox-cheek  Soup. — Blanch  in  boiling  water  two  ox- 
cheeks,  cut  off  the  beard,  take  away  all  the  bone,  which  chop 
up,  and  cut  the  flesh  into  middling-sized  pieces,  leaving  the 
cheek -part  whole  *,  put  all  together  into  a  stewpan,  with  four 
quarts  of  water,  a  little  salt,  ten  peppercorns,  two  carrots,  two 
turnips,  one  leek,  one  head  of  celery,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaf;  let  it  stew  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  six 
hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  then  take  out  the  fleshy  part 
of  the  cheeks,  and  pass  the  broth  through  a  hair-sieve  into 
another  stewpan ;  mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  with  a 
pint  of  cold  broth,  which  pour  into  it,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  boiling,  when  place  it  at  the  corner  (adding  two  heads  of 
celery,  cut  very  fine,  and  a  glass  of  sherry) ;  when  the  celery  is 
tender,  cut  the  meat  into  small  square  pieces,  keep  them  warm 
in  the  tureen,  and  when  the  soup  is  ready,  pour  over,  and 
serve ;  give  it  a  nice  color  with  browning. 

Sheeps'  or  lambs'  heads  also  make  very  good  soup  by  follow- 
ing the  above  receipt,  and  adding  two  pounds  of  veal,  mutton, 
or  beef  to  the  stock :  two  heads  would  be  sufficient,  and  they 
would  not  require  so  long  to  stew. 


196.  White  Mock-turtle  Soup. — Procure  half  a  calf's  head 
(scalded,  not  skinned),  bone  it,  then  cut  up  a  knuckle  of  veal, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  well  buttered  at  the  bottom,  with 
half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  an  ounce  of  salt,  a  carrot,  a  turnip, 
three  onions,  a  head  of  celery,  a  leek,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and 
a  bay-leaf,  add  half  a  pint  of  water ;  set  it  upon  the  fire,  mov- 
ing it  round  occasionally,  until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is 
covered  with  a  white  glaze ;  then  add  six  quarts  of  water,  and 
put  in  the  half  head,  let  simmer  upon  the  corner  of  the  fire  for 


SOUPS.  85 


two  hours  and  a  half,  or  until  the  head  is  tender,  then  take  it 
out,  and  press  it  between  two  dishes,  and  pass  the  stock  through 
a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin ;  then  in  another  stewpan  have  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with  a  sprig  of  thyme,  basil, 
marjoram,  and  bay-leaf,  let  the  butter  get  quite  hot,  then  add 
six  ounces  of  flour  to  form  a  roux,  stir  over  a  sharp  fire  a  few 
minutes,  keeping  it  quite  white ;  stand  it  off  the  fire  to  cool, 
then  add  the  stock,  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  stand 
it  at  the  corner,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  pass  it  through  a  hair 
sieve  into  another  stewpan ;  cut  the  head  into  pieces  an  inch 
square,  but  not  too  thick,  and  put  them  into  the  soup,  which 
season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper ;  when  the  pieces  are  hot, 
add  a  gill  of  cream,  and  pour  it  into  your  tureen. 

The  above  quantity  would  make  two  tureens  of  soup,  and 
will  keep  good  several  days,  but  of  course  half  the  quantity 
could  be  made. 


197.  Brown  Mock-turtle. — Proceed  the  same  as  in  the  last 
article,  only  coloring  the  stock  by  drawing  it  down  to  a  brown 
glaze,  likewise  adding  half  a  pint  of  brown  gravy  (No.  177), 
omitting  the  cream,  and  adding  two  glasses  of  sherry. 

198.  Mulligatawny  Soup. — Cut  up  a  knuckle  of  veal,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of 
lean  ham,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  three  onions,  and  six  apples,  add 
half  a  pint  of  water ;  set  the  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  moving 
the  meat  round  occasionally,  let  remain  until  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan  is  covered  with  a  brownish  glaze,  then  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  one  of  curry  paste,  and  half  a  pound 
of  flour,  stir  well  in,  and  fill  the  stewpan  with  a  gallon  of 
water ;  add  a  spoonful  of  salt,  the  half  of  one  of  sugar,  when 
boiling,  place  it  at  the  corner  of  the  fire,  and  let  it  simmer  two 
hours  and  a  half,  skimming  off  all  the  fat  as  it  rises,  then  pass 
it  through  a  tammy  into  a  tureen ;  trim  some  of  the  pieces  of 
veal,  and  put  it  back  in  the  stewpan  to  boil,  and  serve  with 
plain  boiled  rice  separate.     Ox-tails  or  pieces  of  rabbits,  chick- 
ens, &c.,  left  from  a  previous  dinner  may  be  served  in  it  instead 
of  the  veal.     The  veal  is  exceedingly  good  to  eat. 

199.  Giblet  Soup. — Clean  two  sets  of  giblets,  which  soak 


86  SOUPS. 


for  two  hours,  cut  them  into  equal  sizes,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  four  pounds  of 
veal  or  beef,  half  a  pound  of  ham,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  three  on- 
ions, two  ounces  of  salt,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and 
bay-leaves ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  the 
meat  round  occasionally ;  when  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is 
covered  with  a  light  glaze,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour, 
stir  well  in,  and  fill  up  with  a  gallon  of  water,  add  about  a  pint 
of  brown  gravy  (No.  177),  stir  occasionally  until  boiling,  then 
set  it  at  the  corner  of  the  stove  to  simmer,  keeping  it  well 
skimmed;  when  the  giblets  are  tender,  take  them  out,  put 
them  into  your  tureen,  pass  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  over, 
and  serve ;  twenty  cooked  button  onions,  or  any  small-shaped 
vegetables  served  in  it,  is  very  good,  as  is  also  a  glass  of  port 
wine. 


200.  Oyster  Soup. — Put  four  dozen  of  oysters  into  a  stew- 
pan with  their  liquor,  place  them  upon  the  fire,  when  upon  the 
point  of  boiling,  drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  catching  the  liquor 
in  a  basin ;  take  off  the  beards,  which  put  into  the  liquor,  put- 
ting the  oysters  into  a  soup  tureen ;  then  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  into  another  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  when 
melted  add  six  ounces  of  flour,  stir  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  short 
time,  but  keeping  it  quite  white ;  let  it  cool,  then  add  the  liquor 
and  beards  of  the  oysters,  a  quart  of  milk,  and  two  quarts  of 
stock  (No.  17 5),  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pep- 
per, five  peppercorns,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  a  tablespoonful  of 
Harvey  sauce,  half  ditto  of  essence  of  anchovies;    let  boil 
quickly  at  the  corner  for  ten  minutes,  skim  it  well,  add  a  gill 
of  cream,  if  handy,  strain  through  a  hah-  sieve  over  the  oys- 
ters, and  serve. 

201.  The  Fisherman's  Soup. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  and  when  melted  add  six  ounces  of 
flour,  stir  well  together  over  a  slow  fire  a  few  minutes,  when 
cool,  add  one  quart  of  milk,  and  two  quarts  of  stock  (No.  175), 
stir  over  a  fire  until  boiling;    having  previously  filleted  two 
soles,  add  the  bones  and  trimmings  to  the  soup,  with  four 
cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  two  bay-leaves,  one  spoonful  of  es- 


SOUPS.  87 


sence  of  anchovies,  one  ditto  of  Harvey  sauce,  half  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  cayenne,  a  little  sugar  and  salt  if  required;  let  the 
whole  boil  quickly  at  the  corner  for  ten  minutes,  keeping  it 
well  skimmed ;  cut  each  fillet  of  sole  into  six  pieces,  put  them 
into  another  stewpan,  with  half  a  handful  of  picked  parsley, 
pass  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  over,  boil  again  ten  minutes, 
add  a  gill  of  cream,  if  handy,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 


202.  Autumn  Soup. — Cut  up  four  cabbage-lettuces,  one 
cos  ditto,  a  handful  of  sorrel,  and  a  little  tarragon  and  chervil, 
when  well  washed  and  drained,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with 
two  cucumbers  finely  sliced,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  place 
them  over  a  brisk  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  very  little 
liquid  remains,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring 
it  well  in,  then  pour  over  three  quarts  of  stock,  made  as 
directed  (No.  1*75),  adding  a  quart  of  young  and  fresh  green 
peas ;  half  an  hour's  boiling  will  suffice  for  this  delicious  soup, 
and  the  flavor  of  the  vegetables  will  be  fully  preserved;  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  of  sugar. 


203.  Hodge  Podge. — Cut  two  pounds  of  fresh  scrag  of  mut- 
ton into  small  pieces,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  three 
quarts  of  cold  water  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  set  it  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  boiling  place  it  at  the  corner  to  simmer,  keep- 
ing it  well  skimmed  ;  let  it  simmer  an  hour,  then  add  a  good- 
sized  carrot,  two  turnips,  two  large  onions  cut  into  small  dice, 
and  six  cabbage-lettuces,  if  in  season  (the  whole  well  washed), 
and  let  simmer  until  quite  tender ;  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and 
serve  either  with  the  meat  in  the  soup  or  separately.     If  in 
season,  a  pint  of  green  peas  boiled  in  the  soup  is  a  great  im- 
provement. 

204.  French  Cabbage  Soup. — This  is  a  soup  very  much  in 
vogue  amongst  the  middle  classes  of  the  French  people  ;  it  is 
very  economical,  and  may  satisfy  a  numerous  family  at  a  trifling 
expense.     Put  a  gallon  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  with  two 
pounds  of  streaky  pickled  pork  or  bacon,  whichever  most  con- 
venient, to  which  add  a  couple  of  pounds  of  white  cabbage, 
cut  in  strips  (using  every  part  but  the  stalk,  and  previously  well 


88  SOUPS. 


washed),  two  large  onions,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  and  a  head  of 
celery ;  let  the  whole  boil  three  or  four  hours,  until  the  pork  is 
tender,  skimming  off  all  the  fat,  season  with  a  little  black  pep- 
per, brown  sugar,  and  salt,  if  required  (which  is  not  very  fre- 
quently the  case,  the  pork  or  bacon  generally  being  sufficiently 
so),  lay  slices  of  bread  in  your  tureen  (about  one  pound),  pour 
the  soup  over ;  keep  the  tureen  covered  ten  minutes,  until  the 
bread  is  soaked,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  The  pork  or  bacon 
may  be  either  served  separate  or  cut  into  small  square  pieces, 
and  served  in  the  soup.  A  few  mealy  potatoes  are  sometimes 
introduced,  or  a  quart  of  large  green  peas,  or  a  pint  of  dry 
split  peas.  You  must  observe  that  vegetables  in  France  are 
much  more  used  than  in  this  country,  as  there  are  but  few  poor 
people  there  who  do  not  possess  a  little  garden,  in  which  they 
grow  their  own. 

It  is  also  frequently  made  maigre  by  omitting  the  pork  or 
bacon,  adding  more  vegetables  of  all  kinds,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  frequently  where  they  have  nothing  else 
but  cabbage,  they  make  it  only  of  that ;  now  setting  all  national 
feeling  aside  respecting  the  poverty  of  their  meals,  I  have  known 
strong  healthy  men  make  a  hearty  meal  of  it,  preferring  it  to 
meat,  of  which  they  scarcely  ever  partake. 


205.  Puree  of  Vegetable  Soup. — Peel  and  cut  up  very  finely 
three  onions,  three  turnips,  one  carrot,  and  four  potatoes,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the 
same  of  lean  ham,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley ;  pass  them  ten 
minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  when  add  a  good  spoonful  of  flour, 
which  mix  well  in,  add  two  quarts  of  stock,  and  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing milk,  stir  it  until  boiling ;  season  with  a  little  salt  and 
sugar,  rub  it  through  a  tammy,  put  it  into  another  stewpan, 
boil  again,  skim  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  as  for 
Palestine  Soup.     It  ought  to  be  thickish. 

206.  Palestine    Soup,  or   Puree   of  Artichokes. — Have  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  or  ham,  as  also  an  onion,  a 
turnip,  and  a  little  celery,  cut  the  whole  into  small  thin  slices, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter  ;  place 
them  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping  them  stirred,  about  twenty 


SOUPS.  89 


minutes,  or  until  forming  a  whitish  glaze  at  the  bottom,  then 
have  ready  washed,  peeled,  and  cut  into  thin  slices,  the  arti- 
chokes, which  put  into  the  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  broth  or  water, 
and  stew  until  quite  tender,  then  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  quite  smoothly,  add  two  quarts  of  stock  made  as  directed 
(No.  17 5),  and  half  a  pint  of  milk  ;  keep  it  constantly  stirred 
until  boiling ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  of 
sugar,  then  rub  it  through  a  tammy,  place  it  again  in  a  stew- 
pan  ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  and 
serve  with  very  small  croutons  of  bread  (fried  in  butter,  and 
dried  upon  a  cloth)  in  the  tureen ;  a  gill  of  cream,  stirred  in  at 
the  moment  of  serving,  is  a  great  improvement,  although  it 
may  be  omitted. 

207.  Puree  of  Cauliflower  Soup. — Proceed  as  described  for 
the  puree  of  artichokes,  but  omitting  the  artichokes,  and  sub- 
stituting four  middling-sized  cauliflowers,  previously  boiled  and 
chopped  fine. 

A  puree  of  turnips  is  likewise  made  in  the  same  manner  as 
a  puree  of  artichokes,  substituting  turnips  for  artichokes,  and 
adding  half  a  tablespoonful  more  of  flour.  A  puree  of  white 
Belgian  carrot,  called  "  Crecy  a  la  Reine,"  is  made  in  the  same 
way,  and  is  uncommon  and  delicate. 

208.  Crecy  Soup,  or  Puree  of   Carrots. — Procure  five  or 
six  large  carrots,  as  red  as  possible,  which  well  scrape,  then 
shave  them  into  very  thin  slices,  taking  off'  all  the  exterior  red, 
but  not  using  the  centre,  then  peel  and  slice  a  large  onion,  a 
turnip,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  a  few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, and  two  bay-leaves ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  four 
ounces  of  butter,  fry  the  whole  of  a  light  yellowish  color,  then 
add  the  carrot,  with  a  pint  of  water,  and  let  them  stew  until 
perfectly  tender,  mix  in  two  ounces  of  flour  quite  smoothly,  and 
add  five  pints  of  stock  (No.  175)  ;  season  with  a  little  salt  and 
sugar,  and  stir  upon  the  fire  until  boiling,  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
when  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  and  finish  and  serve  as  in  the 
preceding ;   no   cream,  however,  must   be  added.     This  soup 
ought  to  be  of  a  red  color. 


209.  Green  Pea  Soup. — Put  two  quarts  of  green  peas  into 


90  SOUPS. 


a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lean  ham,  cut  into  small  dice,  two  onions  in  slices, 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley ;  add  a  quart  of  cold  water,  and 
with  the  hands  rub  all  well  together ;  then  pour  off  the  water, 
cover  the  stewpan  close,  and  stand  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring 
the  contents  round  occasionally ;  when  very  tender,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  which  mix  well  in  mashing  the  peas 
with  your  spoon  against  the  sides  of  the  stewpan,  add  two  quarts 
of  stock,  or  broth  from  the  Pot-au-feu,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  if  required ;  boil  all  well  together 
five  minutes,  when  rub  it  through  a  tammy  or  hair  sieve  ;  then 
put  it  into  another  stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  ;  boil 
five  minutes,  skim  well,  and  pour  it  into  your  tureen.  It  must 
not  be  too  thick,  serve  with  croutons  of  bread  as  for  Palestine. 


210.  Winter  Pea  Soup. — Wash  a  quart  of  split  peas,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon,  two 
onions  in  slices,  two  pounds  of  veal  or  beef,  cut  into  small 
pieces,  and  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  add  a  gallon 
of  water,  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and 
when  boiling,  stand  it  at  the  side  until  the  peas  are  boiled  to  a 
puree,  and  the  water  has  reduced  to  half,  then  take  out  the 
meat,  which  put  upon  a  dish,  to  be  eaten  with  the  bacon,  keep- 
ing it  hot,  rub  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  or  tammy,  put  it 
into  another  stewpan,  and  when  boiling,  serve.  The  meat  may 
also  be  served  in  the  tureen  if  approved  of.  Maigre  pea  soup 
may  also  be  made  by  omitting  the  meat,  adding  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  one  quart  of  milk,  and  omitting  a  quart  of  water. 


211.  Lentil  Soup. — Cut  three  onions,  a  turnip,  and  the  half 
of  a  carrot  into  very  thin  slices,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  sprig 
of  thyme,  and  two  bay-leaves,  add  also  two  pounds  of  leg  of 
beef,  cut  into  small  dice ;  set  the  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  stirring 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  until  its  contents  are  fried  rather  brownish, 
when  add  one  quart  of  lentils,  and  three  of  water,  let  the  whole 
simmer  until  the  lentils  are  very  tender,  when  season  with  nearly 
an  ounce  of  salt,  and  half  that  quantity  of  sugar ;  it  is  then  ready 
to  serve. 


SOUPS.  91 


To  make  a  puree  of  lentils : — when  the  soup  is  made,  strain 
off  the  broth,  add  a  good  spoonful  of  flour  to  the  lentils,  which 
mash  with  a  wooden  spoon  against  the  side  of  the  stewpan ; 
then  again  put  in  the  broth,  boil  all  up  together,  keeping  it 
stirred  with  a  spoon ;  rub  it  through  a  tammy  or  hair  sieve, 
again  boil  and  skim,  and  it  is  ready ;  serve  with  a  few  croutons 
of  bread,  as  directed  for  Palestine  soup. 

212.  Maigre  Soup. — Cut  two  onions  into  veiy  small  dice, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  fry 
them  a  short  time,  but  not  to  discolor  them ;  have  ready  three 
or  four  handfuls  of  well-washed  sorrel,  which  cut  into  ribands 
and  put  into  the  stewpan  with  the  onions,  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  then  mix  well  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  quart  of  water ; 
boil  altogether  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred ;  season  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  salt,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
quickly  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  a  gill  of  cream 
or  milk  (it  must  not  boil  afterwards),  put  the  crust  of  a  French 
roll,  cut  into  strips,  in  the  tureen,  pour  the  soup  over,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

213.  Onion  Soup  Maigre. — Peel  and  cut  six  large  onions 
into  small  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  place  them  over  the  fire  until  well  fried,  when 
well  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  rather  better  than  a 
quart  of  water ;  boil  until  the  onions  are  quite  tender,  season 
with  a  spoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  sugar ;  finish  with  a  liaison, 
and  serve  as  in  the  last. 


214.  Hare  Soup. — Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan, and,  when  melted,  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour, 
and  half  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon,  cut  into  very  small  pieces ; 
keep  stirring  over  the  fire  until  becoming  lightly  browned.  You 
have  previously  cut  up  a  hare  into  neat  smallish  pieces ;  put 
them  into  the  stewpan,  and  keep  stirring  round  over  the  fire, 
until  they  are  set ;  then  fill  it  up  with  five  quarts  of  water,  add 
two  onions,  a  head  of  celery,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and 
bay -leaves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  four  cloves ;  when  boiling, 
season  with  one  ounce  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper,  and  let  it 


92  SOUPS. 


simmer  at  the  corner  until  the  pieces  of  hare  are  done,  which 
would  be  in  about  an  hour  if  a  young  hare,  but  double  that 
time  if  a  very  old  one ;  the  better  plan  is  to  try  a  piece  occa- 
sionally. When  done,  take  out  the  best  pieces,  and  the  inferior 
ones  pound  in  a  mortar,  removing  the  bones,  put  it  back  in  the 
soup,  and  pass  all  through  a  tammy,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  and 
put  it  again  into  a  stewpan,  and  serve.  The  above  quantity 
would  be  sufficient  for  two  tureens.  A  glass  of  wine  may  be 
added.  Rabbit,  pheasant,  grouse,  partridge,  and  other  game 
soups,  may  be  made  in  the  same  way. 


215.  French  Pot-au-feu. — Out  of  this  earthen  pot  comes  the 
favorite  soup  and  bouilli,  which  has  been  everlastingly  famed 
as  having  been  the  support  of  many  generations  of  all  classes  of 
society  in  France ;  from  the  opulent  to  the  poorest  individuals, 
all  pay  tribute  to  its  excellence  and  worth.  In  fact  this  soup 
and  bouilli  is  to  the  French  what  the  roast  beef  and  plum-pud- 
ding is  on  a  Sunday  to  the  English.  No  dinner  in  France  is 
served  without  soup,  and  no  good  soup  is  supposed  to  be  made 
without  the  pot-au-feu. 

The  following  is  the  receipt: — Put  in  the  pot-au-feu  six 
pounds  of  beef,  four  quarts  of  water,  set  near  the  fire,  skim ; 
when  nearly  boiling  add  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a 
pound  of  liver,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  eight  young  or  two  old 
leeks,  one  head  of  celery,  two  onions  and  one  burnt,  with  a  clove 
in  each,  and  a  piece  of  parsnip,  skim  again,  and  let  simmer  four 
or  five  hours,  adding  a  little  cold  water  now  and  then ;  take  off 
part  of  the  fat,  put  slices  of  bread  into  the  tureen,  lay  half  the 
vegetables  over,  and  half  the  broth,  and  serve  the  meat  separate 
with  the  vegetables  around. 


CRAB  SOUP. — We  add  to  the  list  of  M.  Soyer's  soups,  a 
receipt  for  a  purely  American  soup,  a  great  favorite  at  the 
South,  and  esteemed  a  great  luxury  by  those  who  have  eaten 
of  it.— ED. 

[Open  and  cleanse  twelve  young  fat  crabs  (raw),  and  cut 
them  into  two  parts ;  parboil  and  extract  the  meat  from  the 
claws,  and  the  fat  from  the  top  shell.  Scald  eighteen  ripe 
tomatos ;  skin  them  and  squeeze  the  pulp  from  the  seed,  and 


FISH.  93 

chop  it  fine ;  pour  boiling  water  over  the  seed  and  juice,  and 
having  strained  it  from  the  seed,  use  it  to  make  the  soup. 
Stew  a  short  time  in  the  soup-pot  three  large  onions,  one  clove 
of  garlic,  in  one  spoonful  of  butter,  two  spoonfuls  of  lard,  and 
then  put  in  the  tomatos,  and  after  stewing  a  few  minutes,  add 
the  meat  from  the  crab  claws,  then  the  crabs,  and  last  the  fat 
from  the  back  shell  of  the  crab ;  sift  over  it  grated  bread-crumbs 
or  crackers.  Season  with  salt,  Cayenne  and  black  pepper, 
parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  thyme,  half  teaspoonful  lemon  juice, 
and  the  peel  of  a  lemon ;  pour  in  the  water  with  which  the 
seed  were  scalded,  and  boil  it  moderately  one  hour. 
Any  firm  fish  may  be  substituted  for  the  crab.] 


FISH. 

OF  all  aliments  that  have  been  given  to  the  human  race  for  nourish- 
ment, none  are  more  abundant  or  more  easy  of  procuring  than  this  ante- 
diluvian species,  and  yet  of  how  few  do  we  make  use,  and  how  slight  is 
our  knowledge  of  their  habits,  for  it  is  only  within  the  last  few  years 
that  the  idea  was  exploded  that  the  herrings  made  an  annual  migration 
from  the  Arctic  seas  to  deposit  their  spawn  on  the  shores  of  the  British 
islands.  It  possesses,  according  to  its  kind,  a  greater  or  less  degree  of 
nourishment,  depending,  like  the  animal,  in  a  great  measure  on  those  beau- 
tiful meadows  at  the  bottom  of  the  ocean,  where  it  feeds ;  for  even  those 
which  live  upon  some  of  a  smaller  kind,  as  the  cod  on  the  haddock,  that 
on  the  whiting,  and  that  again  on  the  mussel,  or  other  crustaceous  fish, 
which  move  but  little  from  the  place  where  they  were  originally  spawned, 
derive  their  nourishment  from  the  herbs  and  the  animalculae  which 
those  herbs  produce  that  lay  around  them ;  the  cod  on  the  southeast  of 
the  Bank  of  Newfoundland  is  as  fine  again  in  flavor  as  that  on  the  north- 
west side.  Fish,  of  course,  do  not  afford  the  same  amount  of  nourish- 
ment as  meat,  as  they  contain  but  a  slight  quantity  of  osmazome ;  but 
its  flesh  is  refreshing,  and  often  exciting.  A  curious  circumstance  has 
been  observed  in  respect  to  the  animate  parts  of  the  creation  which 
draw  their  nourishment  from  fish,  as  in  birds  and  the  human  race,  that 
they  produce  more  females  when  doing  so  than  males. 

It  ought  to  be  made  an  article  of  diet  more  often  than  it  is,  as  the 
particles  it  contains  tend  to  purify  the  blood  from  the  grossness  it  re- 
ceives in  partaking  of  animal  food ;  and  when  taken  at  the  commence- 
ment of  dinner,  tends  to  assist  the  digestion  of  those  substances  which 
form  the  more  substantial  part  of  the  meal. 

In  the  receipts  will  be  found  those  which  I  consider  fit  for  the  table ; 

but,  as  a  general  rule  to  be  observed,  as  in  the  feathered  tribe,  all  those 

of  beautiful  variegated  colors  are  more  unfit  to  eat  than  any  other ;  as  if 

the  great  Creator  of  all,  in  order  to  please  man,  had  destined  some  for 

2* 


94  FISH. 


his  nourishment,  and  others  to  gratify  his  senses  by  their  melodious  notes 
and  beautiful  plumage. 

Nothing  indicates  its  freshness  so  well  as  fish ;  the  merest  novice  ought 
to  know  it ;  their  gills  should  be  difficult  to  open,  be  red,  and  swell 
well ;  fins  tight  and  close ;  eyes  bright,  and  not  sunk :  the  contrary  to  this 
denotes  their  being  stale. 

Of  the  round  fish,  the  SALMON  is  considered  the  best  and  most  deli- 
cate in  flavor,  but  varies  considerably,  according  to  the  river  in  which 
it  is  caught ;  for  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  it  returns  to  the  river  where 
it  was  originally  spawned,  and  its  time  of  spawning  varies  in  different 
rivers.  The  male  is  the  finest  flavored  fish,  and  has  more  curd  than  the 
female.  Of  late  years  it  has  been  considered  that  this  fish  should  be 
eaten  as  fresh  as  possible,  for  which  purpose  it  is  crimped  when  alive, 
that  it  may  be  flaky,  and  the  curd  in  it.  In  former  times,  it  was  con- 
sidered best  to  keep  it  two  or  three  days ;  it  is  certain  that,  in  keeping 
it,  the  curd  undergoes  a  change,  which  produces  a  volatile  salt,  oily  and 
balsamic  particles,  render  it  nutritive  and  invigorating ;  it  is  diuretic, 
pectoral,  and  restorative,  and  if  eaten  too  profusely  produces  vomiting ; 
but  when  the  curd  is  in  it,  the  flesh  is  hard  and  dry,  lies  heavy  on  the 
stomach,  and  produces  indigestion.  This  fish,  when  out  of  season,  may 
be  distinguished  by  having  large  scarlet,  purple,  and  blue  spots  on  its 
sides,  the  male  snout  long,  the  female  snout  hooked.  When  in  season, 
the  color  ought  to  be  a  silvery  pink  gray;  when  cooked,  the  flesh 
should  be  of  a  dark  rose  color ;  when  out  of  season  it  is  pale ;  small- 
headed  fish  are  the  best. 

This  fish  was  known  to  the  Romans,  who  received  it  from  Aquitaine 
and  the  MoseUe. 


216.  Salmon,  plain  boiled. — I  prefer  always  dressing  this 
fish  in  slices  from  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  thickness,  boiling  it 
in  plenty  of  salt  water  about  twenty  minutes ;  the  whole  fish 
may  be  boiled,  or  the  head  and  shoulders  of  a  large  fish,  but 
they  require  longer  boiling.     Salmon  eats  firmer  by  not  being 
put  into  the  water  until  boiling.     Dress  the  fish  upon  a  napkin, 
and  serve  with  lobster  sauce,  shrimp  ditto,  or   plain  melted 
butter  in  a  boat,  with  fresh  sprigs  of  parsley  boiled  a  few  min- 
utes in  it.     A  salmon  weighing  about  ten  pounds  will  require 
an  hour's  gentle  boiling ;  a  head  and  shoulders  weighing  six 
pounds,  half   an   hour;    the  remains   may  be   dressed   a  la 
creme,  as  directed  for  the  turbot. 

217.  Salmon,  Sauce  Matelote. — Cook  three  good  slices  of 
salmon  as  directed  in  the  last,  or  a  large  salmon  peal  trussed 
in  the  form  of  the  letter  S,  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  nap- 
kin, having  previously  drained  off  all  the  water ;  have  ready 
one  quart  of  matelote  sauce,  under  or  over. 


FISH.  95 


To  broil  salmon,  dip  each  piece  in  flour,  put  it  on  a  grid- 
iron, fifteen  minutes  will  give  it  a  nice  pale  color ;  it  should  be 
served  with  Dutch  or  caper  sauce. 


Cod. — This  fish,  like  the  former,  belongs  to  the  northern  parts  of  the 
world ;  its  flavor  and  quality,  like  terrestrial  animals,  depend  greatly 
on  its  feeding-place,  a  few  miles  making  a  marked  difference ;  it  is  ex- 
ceedingly voracious.  Those  are  best  with  a  small  head  and  thick  at 
the  neck 

218.  To  boil  Cod  Fish. — Crimped  cod,  as  I  have  before  re- 
marked, is  preferable  to  the  plain ;  it  is  likewise  better  cut  in 
slices  than  cooked  whole ;  to  boil  it  well,  have  the  water  ready 
boiling,  with  one  pound  of  salt  to  every  six  quarts,  put  in  your 
fish,  draw  the  fish-kettle  to  the  corner  of  the  fire,  where  let  it 
simmer  slowly  from  twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour,  when 
done,  the  bone  in  the  centre  will  draw  out  easily ;  if  boiled  too 
much,  it  would  eat  tough  and  stringy ;  should  the  fish  not  be 
crimped,  add  more  salt  to  the  water,  it  will  cause  the  fish  to 
eat  firmer. 


219.  Cod  Fish  sauced  over  with  Oyster  Sauce. — Boil  three 
slices  of  the  fish  as  above,  drain  and  dress  them  upon  a  dish 
without  a  napkin,  blanch  three  dozen  oysters,  by  putting  them 
into  a  stewpan,  with  their  juice,  upon  the  fire,  move  them  round 
occasionally,  do  not  let  them  boil ;  as  soon  as  they  become  a 
little  firm,  place  a  sieve  over  a  basin,  pour  in  the  oysters,  beard 
and  throw  them  again  into  their  liquor,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  ;  when  boiling,  add  two  cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  six 
peppercorns,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  to  which  you  have 
added  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  breaking  it  into  small  pieces, 
stir  well  together,  when  boiling,  season  with  a  little  salt,  cayenne 
pepper,  and  essence  of  anchovies,  finish  with  a  gill  of  cream  or 
milk,  and  sauce  over.  The  remains  of  this  fish  may  be  taken 
from  the  bone  and  placed  upon  a  dish,  with  a  little  of  the  above 
sauce  (to  which  you  have  added  the  yolks  of  two  eggs)  over, 
sprinkle  over  with  bread-crumbs,  and  place  it  twenty  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven,  till  the  bread-crumbs  become  brown. 


220.  Salt  Fish.—ChoosQ  the  fish  with  a  black  skin,  and  be 


96  FISH. 


particular  in  soaking  it  well ;  to  boil,  put  it  into  a  fish-kettle, 
with  plenty  of  cold  water,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  the  mo- 
ment it  boils  remove  it  to  the  corner,  to  simmer  until  done, 
which,  if  a  piece  weighing  about  three  pounds,  would  be  in 
about  twenty  minutes ;  do  not  let  it  boil  fast,  or  the  fish  would 
eat  hard  and  thready ;  dish  it  upon  a  napkin,  with  plain  boiled 
parsnips  and  parsley  round,  and  serve  egg  sauce  in  a  boat. 

Haddock,  the  callarias  and  galeris  of  the  Romans.  This  is  also  the 
fish  that  it  is  said  St.  Peter  took  the  tribute  money  from,  and  thus  gave 
the  impression  of  his  finger  and  thumb,  where  it  remains  in  confirma- 
tion of  the  miracle.  It  has  a  very  fine  flavor  when  fresh  and  in  season, 
which  is  when  the  roe  is  very  small ;  the  time  depends  on  the  place 
where  taken,  but  generally  about  October.  I  think  one  weighing  from 
six  to  seven  pounds  is  the  best  size,  although  I  have  had  them  at 
twelve  pounds.  The  same  features  as  in  the  cod  will  tell  if  they  are 
fresh. 

221.  Haddock. — This  is  a  fish  which  I  can  highly  recommend, 
both  for  its  firmness  and  lightness ;  it  is  excellent  plain  boiled, 
and  served  with  a  cream  sauce  or  any  other  fish  sauce.     But 
the  better  plan  is  to  cut  four  or  five  incisions  upon  each  side  of 
the  fish,  an  inch  deep,  then  put  it  into  a  deep  dish,  and  cover 
well  with  salt,  let  it  remain  about  two  hours,  then  put  the  fish 
in  boiling  water,  to  simmer  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes ;  if  a 
fish  of  five  or  six  pounds  in  weight,  dish  it  on  a  napkin  gar- 
nished with  plain  boiled  parsnips  and  parsley,  with  egg  sauce 
in  a  boat. 

222.  Baked  Haddock— Fill  the  interior  of  the  fish  with 
veal  stuffing,  sew  it  up  with  packthread,  and  truss  it  with  the 
tail  in  its  mouth,  rub  a  piece  of  butter  over  the  back,  or  egg 
and  bread-crumb  it  over,  set  it  on  a  baking-dish,  which  put  in 
a  warmish  oven  to  bake,  if  a  Dublin  bay  haddock,  it  would 
take  from  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour,  but  a  common 
haddock  would  require  but  half  an  hour ;  the  better  plan  is  to 
run  the  point  of  a  knife  down  to  the  backbone,  from  which,  if 
the  flesh  parts  easily,  it  is  done,  when  dress  it  upon  a  dish 
without  a  napkin,  and  serve  a  Beyrout  sauce,  or  any  other, 
round. 

Sturgeon  derives  its  name  from  the  German  stoeren,  to  stir,  to  rake 


FISH.  97 


up ;  it  is  from  the  same  word  -we  derive  our  word  stir.  It  is  the  ac- 
cipenser  of  the  Romans.  This  fish  has  long  been  in  use  in  England,  but, 
from  its  scarcity,  it  has  always  been  expensive — indeed,  it  has  been 
considered  as  a  royal  fish ;  for  every  one  caught  in  the  rivers  of  Eng- 
land belongs  to  the  Queen,  with  the  exception  of  the  river  Thames, 
which  belongs  to  the  Lord  Mayor.  The  flavor  of  the  young  sturgeon  is 
extremely  delicate,  but  that  materially  depends  upon  the  river  in  which 
it  is  caught,  as  it  feeds  upon  the  insects  and  plants, — in  fact,  entirely  by 
suction ;  those  caught  in  rapid  rivers  and  sandy  bottoms,  and  where 
they  have  the  advantage  of  salt  and  fresh  water,  are  the  best. 

223.  Economical  mode  of  cooking  Sturgeon. — Take  a  piece 
of  sturgeon  about  two  pounds  weight,  and  on  sending  a  piece 
of  meat  to  the  baker's  to  be  baked  on  a  stand  in  a  dish,  put 
the  sturgeon  under  it,  with  a  little  water,  salt,  pepper,  &c.,  and 
a  little  chopped  eschalot  may  be  used ;  you  can  also  put  pota- 
toes round  it.     Peas,  if  in  season,  are  a  good  accompaniment, 
with  melted  butter. 

224.  To  roast  Sturgeon. — Take  the  tail  part,  skin  and  bone 
it ;  fill  the  part  where  the  bone  comes  from  with  some  stuffing, 
as  for  a  fillet  of  veal ;  put  butter  and  paper  round  it,  and  tie  it 
up  like  a  fillet  of  veal ;  roast,  and  serve  it  with  melted  butter 
and  gravy. 

They  may  be  cooked  precisely  as  veal,  in  large  or  small  pieces,  as 
for  fricandeau,  papillote,  tfcc.,  and  even  salted,  in  imitation  of  tunny. 


Mackerel. — This  is  generally  recognized  as  the  scomber  of  the  Ro- 
mans, by  whom  it  was  much  esteemed ;  at  the  present  day  it  is  not 
held  in  that  high  estimation  that  it  was  some  years  since :  the  great 
supply  which  is  now  received  from  different  parts  of  the  coast  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year  may  have  a  tendency  to  cause  this.  It  is  a  fish 
which  requires  to  be  eaten  very  fresh,  and  soon  becomes  tainted.  The 
soft  roe  of  this  fish  is  highly  esteemed,  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  it 
was  equally  so  with  the  Romans,  and  I  believe  it  was  an  ingredient  of 
the  garum.  When  fresh,  their  skin  is  of  a  sea-green  color,  and  very 
beautiful ;  fine  bright  golden  eyes,  and  gills  very  red ;  they  should  be 
plump,  but  not  too  large ;  they  should  be  cleaned  by  cutting  their  gills, 
so  that,  when  pulled,  the  interior  of  the  fish  will  come  with  them ; 
wipe  them  well,  cut  off  the  fins,  and  trim  the  tail. 

225.  Mackerel  are  generally  served  plain  boiled ;  put  them 
in  a  kettle  containing  boiling  water,  well  salted,  let  simmer 
nearly  half  an  hour,  take  them  up,  drain,  and  dish  them  upon  a 
napkin ;  serve  melted  butter  in  a  boat,  with  which  you  have 

5 


98  FISH. 


mixed  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  fennel,  boiling  it  a  few  min- 
utes. 


226.  Mackerel  a  la  Maitre  d"1  Hotel. — Cut  an  incision  down 
the  back  of  a  mackerel,  close  to  the  bone,  season  it  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne,  if  approved  of,  butter  the  skin 
well,  and  place  the  fish  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire, 
for  about  twenty  minutes,  turning  it  over  when  half  done ; 
when  done,  have  ready  two  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter, 
half  of  which  put  in  the  incision  at  the  back,  previously  putting 
the  mackerel  upon  a  hot  dish  without  a  napkin,  spread  the 
other  half  over ;  place  it  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes,  and  serve 
very  hot. 


227.  Mackerel  au  Beurre  Noir. — Split  the  mackerel  open 
at  the  back,  making  it  quite  flat,  season  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  and  butter  it  all  over,  lay  it  upon  a  gridiron  over  a 
moderate  fire,  turning  it  when  half  done,  for  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  when  place  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  then  put 
six  ounces  of  fresh  butter  in  a  stewpan,  which  place  over  a 
sharp  fire  until  the  butter  becomes  black,  but  not  burnt,  when 
throw  in  about  fifty  leaves  of  picked  parsley,  which  fry  crisp, 
and  pour  over  the  fish,  put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  common 
vinegar  into  the  stewpan,  which  boil  half  a  minute,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  pour  this  also  over  the  fish,  which  put  into  the 
oven  five  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot. 


228.  To  stew  Mackerel. — Take  off  the  heads,  the  fins,  and 
tails,  and,  having  opened  the  fish  and  taken  out  all  the  hard 
roes,  dry  them  with  a  cloth  and  dredge  them  lightly  with  flour ; 
place  three  or  four  of  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  lump  of  but- 
ter, the  size  of  a  walnut,  to  each  fish ;  put  into  a  small  basin  a 
teacupful  of  water,  a  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  onions,  the 
same  of  chopped  parsley,  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  a  little  pep- 
per and  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  and  a  small 
teacupful  of  ale  or  porter  (if  not  bitter).  Add  a  tablespoonful 
of  grated  bread-crust,  not  burnt,  but  a  light  brown ;  pour  all 
these  ingredients  over  the  fish,  and  let  them  stew  gently  for 
twenty  minutes ;  have  ready  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  well- 


FISH.  99 


beaten,  and  when  the  fish  is  sufficiently  done,  take  some  of  the 
gravy  and  mix  gradually  with  the  eggs,  and,  pouring  them  on 
the  fish,  shake  the  stewpan  a  little  over  the  fire  to  thicken  the 
whole,  but  not  to  curdle  the  eggs  ;  the  soft  roes  added  are  an 
improvement :  have  ready  more  grated  crust,  and  having 
placed  the  fish  whole  in  the  dish,  shake  a  little  of  the  grated 
crust  over  the  whole,  so  as  to  make  it  of  a  handsome  brown. 
The  Receipt  requires  to  be  carefully  followed.  If  the  gravy  is 
too  thick,  more  water  may  be  added ;  also  a  glass  of  sherry,  if 
liked. 


229.  Fried  Whiting. — The  whiting  is  generally  skinned, 
and  the  tail  turned  round  and  fixed  into  the  mouth ;  dip  it  first 
into  flour,  then  egg  over  and  dip  it  into  bread-crumbs,  fry  as 
directed  for  the  sole ;  for  whiting  aux  fines  herbes,  proceed  as 
directed  for  sole  aux  fines  herbes.  I  prefer  the  whiting  fried 
with  their  skins  on,  merely  dipping  them  in  flour. 


230.  Whiting  au  Gratin. — Put  a  good  spoonful  of  chopped 
onions  upon  a  strong  earthen  dish,  with  a  glass  of  wine,  season 
the  whiting  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  put  it  in  the  dish, 
sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley  and  chopped  mushrooms  over, 
and  pour  over  half  a  pint  of  anchovy  sauce,  over  which  sprinkle 
some  brown  bread-crumbs,  grated  from  the  crust  of  bread,  place 
it  in  a  warm  oven  half  an  hour ;  it  requires  to  be  nicely  brown- 
ed ;  serve  upon  the  dish  you  have  cooked  it  in. 


231.  Red  Mullets. — Procure  two  red  mullets,  which  place 
upon  a  strong   dish,  not   too  large,  sprinkle  a  little  chopped 
onions,  parsley,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  salad-oil 
over,  and  put  them  into  a  warm  oven  for  half  an  hour,  then 
put  half  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan,  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  salad-oil,  stir  over  a  moderate  fire  until  getting 
rather  yellowish,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  half  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  or  melted  butter,  with  a  little  chopped  parsley ; 
reduce  over   a  sharp  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  becoming 
rather  thick  ;  when  the  mullets  are  done,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

232.  Red  Mullet  en  papillate. — Cut  a  sheet  of  foolscap 


100  FISH. 

paper  in  the  form  of  a  heart,  lay  it  on  the  table  and  oil  it,  put 
the  mullet  on  one  side,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped 
eschalot,  fold  the  paper  over  and  plait  both  edges  together,  and 
broil  on  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour,  turning  carefully  now  and 
then ;  serve  without  a  napkin ;  they  are  excellent  done  thus, 
without  sauce,  but,  if  any  is  required,  use  melted  butter,  cream 
Hollandaise,  anchovy  or  Italian  sauce. 


233.  Red  Mullets  saute  in  Butter. — Put  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter in  a  pan ;  when  melted,  put  in  one  or  two  small  mullets, 
and  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  ditto  of  pepper,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire  and  turn  care- 
fully ;  when  done,  dish  and  serve  plain,  or  with  any  of  the 
sauces  named  in  the  former  receipt. 


Herrings,  when  in  season,  that  is,  when  the  roe  is  just  forming,  are 
most  excellent  and  wholesome  fish,  when  eaten  fresh ;  I  have  this  day 
(the  25th  of  April)  partaken  of  some,  caught  in  twenty-four  fathoms  of 
water,  about  twelve  miles  off  the  coast  of  Folkestone,  in  which  you  could 
just  distinguish  the  formation  of  the  roe.  The  richness  of  the  nsh  at  this 
period  is  extraordinary,  and  renders  it  worthy  the  table  of  the  greatest 
epicure. 

As  this  fish  is  now  of  so  great  importance  as  an  article  of  food,  I  shall 
refer  more  at  length  to  it  in  my  letters  on  pickling  and  preserving,  and 
give  you  a  description  of  my  new  plan  of  curing  and  smoking,  and  also 
what  I  consider  its  medicinal  and  other  properties.  Its  different  modes 
of  cooking  are  as  follows  : 

234.  Herrings  boiled. — Boil  six  herrings  about  twenty  min- 
utes in  plenty  of  salt  and  water,  but  only  just  to  simmer ;  then 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  half  a  gill  of  cream  upon 
the  fire  in  a  stewpan ;  when  it  boils,  add  eight  spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  dress  the  fish  upon  a  dish  without  ? 
napkin,  sauce  over  and  serve. 


235.  Herrings  broiled,  Sauce  Dijon. — The  delicacy  of  these 
fish  prevents  their  being  dressed  in  any  other  way  than  boiled 
or  broiled ;  they  certainly  can  be  bread-crumbed  and  fried,  but 
scarcely  any  person  would  like  them ;  I  prefer  them  dressed  in 
the  following  way :  wipe  them  well  with  a  cloth,  and  cut  three 


FISH.  101 

incisions  slantwise  upon  each  side,  dip  them  in  flour  and  broil 
slowly  over  a  moderate  fire ;  when  done,  sprinkle  a  little  salt 
over,  dress  them  upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve 
the  following  sauce  in  a  boat :  put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  of  French  mustard,  or  one  of 
English,  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ; 
when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  serve. 


Smelts. — Many  have  confounded  them  with  the  salmon-fry  or  smelt  of 
one  year  old,  whereas  the  smelt  has  roe  and  the  fry  none ;  it  ascends  rivers 
to  deposit  its  spawn  in  November,  December,  and  January,  and  the  rest 
of  the  year  they  are  considered  in  season,  but  they  vary  like  the  salmon, 
according  to  the  river.  This  fish,  when  fresh,  has  a  beautiful  smell  of 
violets  or  cucumbers,  but  the  Germans  call  it  stinck  fish,  I  know  not 
why ;  they  lose  this  perfume  in  about  twelve  hours  after  being  taken ; 
they  should  be  very  stiff  and  firm,  bright  eyes,  and  transparent  skin. 
This  fish  is  very  delicate,  and  requires  very  great  attention  in  cleaning, 
merely  pulling  out  the  gills,  the  inside  will  come  with  them ;  they  should 
be  wiped  lightly.  When  split  and  dried,  they  are  called  sparlings. 

236.  To  fry  Smelts. — Dry  them  in  a  cloth,  and  dip  them 
in  flour ;  then  have  half  an  ounce  of  butter  of  clear  fat  melted 
in  a  basin,  into  which  break  the  yolk  of  two  eggs,  with  which 
rub  the  smelts  over  with  a  brush,  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
fry  in  very  hot  lard,  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  with  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 


White  Bait. — This  is  a  fish  which  belongs  especially  to  London ;  al- 
though it  is  obtainable  in  other  rivers  in  Great  Britain  and  the  Continent, 
yet  it  is  not  sought  for ;  great  difference  of  opinion  exists  amongst  natu- 
ralists as  to  what  fish  this  is  the  young  of;  in  my  humble  opinion,  I 
think  it  is  a  species  distinct  of  itself,  having  a  life  of  short  duratioa  It 
is  caught  only  in  brackish  water,  floating  up  and  down  the  river,  accord- 
ing to  the  tide, — in  every  dry  summers  as  high  up  as  Greenwich,  and 
in  very  wet  as  low  as  Gravesend.  They  spawn  in  winter,  and  make 
their  appearance,  about  one  inch  in  length,  early  in  March.  They  should 
be  cooked  as  follows : 

237.  White  Bait. — Put  them  in  a  cloth,  which  shake  gently 
so  as  to  dry  them  ;  then  place  them  in  some  very  fine  bread- 
crumbs and  flour  mixed ;  toss  them  lightly  with  the  hands, 
take  them  out  immediately  and  put  them  in  a  wire  basket,  and 
fry  them  in  hot  lard ;  one  minute  will  cook  them ;  turn  them 
out  on  a  cloth,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 


102  FISH. 


Should  you  not  have  a  wire  basket,  sprinkle  them  into  the  pan, 
and  as  soon  as  they  rise  take  them  out. 


Turbot  we  consider  the  finest  of  flat-fish ;  and  so  it  was,  no  doubt, 
considered  by  the  Romans :  hence  the  proverb,  "  Nihil  ad  rhombum," 
although  Linnaeus,  from  his  classification,  would  make  us  believe  it  was 
the  brill  or  bret,  but  I  do  not  think  so  meanly  of  the  epicures  of  those 
days  as  to  imagine  it.  Its  flavor  depends  greatly  upon  the  place  where 
taken,  resulting  from  its  food,  feeding  principally  upon  young  crabs  and 
lobsters ;  therefore  it  is  not  surprising  that  lobster  sauce  accompanies  it 
when  cooked.  I  prefer  them  of  a  middling  size,  not  too  large,  but  thick, 
and  if  bled  when  caught,  so  much  the  better.  Should  you  be  at  the  sea- 
side, and  buy  one  rather  cheap,  because  it  has  red  spots  on  the  belly, 
remove  them  by  rubbing  salt  and  lemon  on  the  spot.  In  my  opinion 
they  are  better,  and  more  digestible,  and  of  finer  flavor,  forty-eight  hours 
after  being  killed,  than  when  fresh. 


238.  Turbot. — To  cook  it;  cut  an  incision  in  the  back,  rub 
it  well  with  a  good  handful  of  salt,  and  then  with  the  juice  of 
a  lemon;  set  it  in  a  turbot  kettle,  well  covered  with  cold  water, 
in  which  you  have  put  a  good  handful  of  salt ;  place  it  over  the 
fire,  and  as  soon  as  boiling,  put  it  at  the  side  (where  it  must  not 
be  allowed  to  more  than  simmer  very  slowly,  or  the  fish  would 
have  a  very  unsightly  appearance).  A  turbot  of  ten  pounds 
weight  will  take  about  an  hour  to  cook  after  it  has  boiled  (but, 
to  be  certain,  ascertain  whether  the  flesh  will  leave  the  bone 
easily) ;  take  it  out  of  the  water,  let  it  remain  a  minute  upon 
the  drainer,  and  serve  upon  a  napkin,  with  a  few  sprigs  of  fresh 
parsley  round,  and  lobster  sauce  or  shrimp  sauce,  in  a  boat. 


239.  Turbot,  the  new  French  fashion. — Boil  your  turbot  as 
in  the  last,  but  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  sauce 
over  with  a  thick  caper  sauce  (having  made  a  border  of  small 
new  potatoes),  sprinkle  a  few  capers  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

240.  Turbot  a  la  Creme  is  made  from  the  remains  of  a  tur- 
bot left  from  a  previous  dinner ;  pick  all  the  flesh  from  the 
bones,  which  warm  in  salt  and  water,  and  have  ready  the  fol- 
lowing sauce :  put  one  ounce  of  flour  into  a  stewpan,  to  which 
add  by  degrees  a  quart  of  milk,  mixing  it  very  smoothly ;  then 


FISH.  103 


add  two  peeled  eschalots,  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf  and 
a  sprig  of  thyme  tied  together,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper ;  place  it  over  the 
fire,  stirring  until  it  forms  rather  a  thickish  sauce,  then  take  it 
from  the  fire,  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and 
pass  it  through  a  tammy ;  lay  a  little  of  it  upon  the  bottom  of 
a  convenient  sized  dish,  then  a  layer  of  the  fish,  season  lightly 
with  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt,  then  another  layer  of  sauce, 
proceeding  thus  until  the  fish  is  all  use^d,  finishing  with  sauce ; 
sprinkle  a  few  bread-crumbs  over,  and  put  it  into  a  warm  oven 
half  an  hour ;  brown  with  the  salamander,  and  serve  upon  the 
dish  it  is  baked  on.  Any  remains  of  boiled  fish  may  be  dressed 
the  same  way. 

241.  Soles  fried. — Have  about  four  pounds  of  lard  or  clean 
fat  in  a  small  fish-kettle,  which  place  over  a  moderate  fire,  then 
cut  off  the  fins  of  the  sole,  and  dip  it  into  flour,  shake  part  of 
the  flour  off,  have  an  egg  well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  with  which 
brush  the  fish  all  over,  and  cover  it  with  bread-crumbs ;  ascer- 
tain if  the  lard  is  hot,  by  throwing  in  a  few  bread-crumbs,  it 
will  hiss  if  sufficiently  hot,  put  in  the  fish,  which  will  require 
nearly  ten  minutes  cooking,  and  ought  to  be  perfectly  crisp, 
drain  it  on  a  cloth,  dish  upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley, 
and  serve  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

The  above  quantity  of  lard  or  fat,  if  carefully  used  and  not 
burnt,  would  do  for  several  occasions,  by  straining  it  off  each 
time  after  using.  All  kinds  of  fish,  such  as  eels,  smelts,  whi- 
tings, flounders,  perch,  gudgeons,  &c.,  are  fried  precisely  in  the 
same  manner. 


242.  Soles,  saute  in  Oil. — Trim  the  fish  well,  dip  it  into  a 
couple  of  eggs,  well  beaten,  put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil 
in  a  saute-pan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  put  in 
your  sole,  let  it  remain  five  minutes,  turn  over,  and  saute  upon 
the  other  side,  ten  or  twelve  minutes  will  cook  it,  according  to 
the  size ;  serve  upon  a  napkin  without  sauce ;  they  are  excel- 
lent cold. 


243.  Sole  a  la  Meuniere. — Cut  the  fins  off  a  sole,  and  make 


104  FISH. 

four  incisions  across  it  upon  each  side  with  a  knife,  then  rub 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  chopped  onions  well  into  it, 
dip  in  flour,  and  broil  it  over  a  slow  fire ;  also  have  ready  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  mixed  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a 
little  cayenne,  which  rub  over  the  sole,  previously  laid  in  a  hot 
dish,  without  a  napkin,  turn  the  fish  over  once  or  twice,  put  it 
in  the  oven  a  minute,  and  serve  very  hot. 


244.  Soles  aux  fines  kerbes. — Put  a  spoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots  into  a  saute-pan,  with  a  glass  of  sherry  and  an  ounce 
of  butter,  place  the  sole  over,  pour  nearly  half  a  pint  of  melted 
butter  over  it,  or  four  spoonfuls  of  brown  gravy  or  water,  upon 
which  sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley,  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  half  an  hour,  take  the  sole  out  of  the  pan,  dress  upon 
a  dish  without  a  napkin,  reduce  the  sauce  that  is  in  the  pan 
over  a  sharp  fire,  add  a  little  Harvey  sauce  and  essence  of  an- 
chovy, pour  over  the  sole,  and  serve. 

Soles  may  also  be  plain  boiled,  using  the  same  precautions  as 
directed  for  turbot,  and  serve  without  a  napkin,  and  a  cream 
sauce  poured  over ;  or  it  may  be  served  upon  a  napkin  gar- 
nished with  parsley,  and  a  little  shrimp  sauce,  ro  plain  melted 
butter,  in  a  boat. 

245.  Flounders,    Water    Souchet. — Procure    four    or    six 
Thames  flounders,  trim  and  cut  in  halves ;  put  half  a  pint  of 
water  in  a  saute-pan,  with  a  little  scraped  horseradish,  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  forty  sprigs  of  fresh  parsley ;  place  over 
the  fire,  boil  a  minute,  then  add  the  flounders,  stew  ten  min- 
utes, take  them  out  and  place  in  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  re- 
duce the  liquor  they  were  stewed  in  a  little,  pour  over  and  serve. 

To  fry  flounders,  trim  them,  and  proceed  precisely  as  di- 
rected for  fried  soles :  three  minutes  is  sufficient. 

Skate,  also  called  Maid,  Ray,  is  not  appreciated  equal  to  what  it 
ought  to  be ;  we  generally  have  only  the  fin  part,  which  is  cut  off  and 
put  into  fresh  water,  where  it  curls  up.  It  is  a  very  invigorating  fish, 
and  I  think  deserves  the  attention  of  the  medical  profession.  It  is  best 
cooked  as  follows : 

246.  Skate. — Procure  two  or  three  slices,  tie  them  with 
string  to  keep  the  shape  in  boiling,  put  them  into  a  kettle  of 


FISH.  105 


boiling  water,  in  which  you  have  put  a  good  handful  of  salt ; 
boil  gently  about  twenty  minutes  (have  ready  also  a  piece  of 
the  liver,  which  boil  with  them) ;  when  done,  drain  well,  and 
put  them  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin ;  put  three  parts  of  a 
pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and 
when  quite  hot  add  a  wineglassful  of  capers,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 


247.  Skate  au  Beurre  Noir. — Boil  a  piece  of  skate  as 
directed  in  the  last ;  when  done,  drain  it  well,  put  it  upon  a 
dish  without  a  napkin,  and  proceed  exactly  as  directed  for 
mackerel  au  beurre  noir. 

Skate  may  also  be  served  upon  a  napkin,  with  a  boat  of 
well-seasoned  melted  butter,  to  which  you  have  added  a  spoon- 
ful of  Harvey  sauce  and  one  of  anchovy. 

Pike. — This  fish  spawns  in  March  and  April,  according  to  the  season. 
When  in  perfection,  their  colors  are  very  bright,  being  green,  spotted 
with  bright  yellow,  and  the  gills  are  a  bright  red ;  when  out  of  season, 
the  green  changes  to  gray,  and  the  yellow  spots  assume  a  pale  hue. 
It  may  be  called  the  shark  of  fresh  water.  Those  caught  in  a  river  or 
running  stream  are  far  superior  to  those  caught  in  ponds,  which  often 
get  too  fat,  and  taste  muddy.  A  middling-sized  one,  weighing  about 
five  pounds,  would  be  best ;  when  fresh,  the  eyes  must  be  very  trans- 
parent, the  scales  bluish,  and  not  dry  upon  the  back,  or  it  would  not 
clean  well.  The  dressing  is  generally  the  making  of  the  fish,  as  regards 
the  approbation  bestowed  upon  it.  To  clean  them,  have  a  sharp- 
pointed  knife,  put  the  point  carefully  under  the  scales  (without  piercing 
the  skin)  at  the  tail  of  the  fish,  pass  the  knife  gently  up  the  back  to 
the  head,  dividing  the  scales  from  the  skin  carefully ;  you  may  then 
take  off  the  whole  of  the  scales  in  one  piece  (should  this  process  appear 
too  difficult,  they  may  be  scraped  off  in  the  ordinary  way,  it  will  not 
look  so  white,  but  would  eat  equally  as  good) ;  then  make  two  incisions 
in  the  belly,  a  small  one  close  to  the  bladder,  and  a  larger  one  above ; 
pull  out  the  gills  one  at  a  time  with  a  strong  cloth,  and  if  the  interior  does 
not  come  with  them,  take  it  out  from  the  incisions,  and  wash  the  fish 
well ;  the  cutting  off  the  fins  is  quite  a  matter  of  taste :  it  is  usually 
done. 


248.  Pike. — Clean  as  directed  above,  stuff  the  interior  as 
directed  for  haddocks,  only  adding  some  fillets  of  anchovies 
and  chopped  lemon-peel  with  it;  curl  round  and  put  in  a 
baking-dish,  spread  a  little  butter  all  over,  put  in  a  moderate 
oven,  when  about  half  done  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and 

5* 


106  FISH. 


sprinkle  bread-crumbs  upon  it ;  a  middling-sized  pike  will  take 
about  an  hour,  but  that  according  to  the  size  and  the  heat  of 
the  oven ;  when  done,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and 
sauce  round  as  directed  for  baked  haddock  above  referred  to. 


249.  Pike,  Sauce  Matelote. — Cook  a  pike  exactly  as  in  the 
last,  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  sauce  with  a 
matelote  sauce  over,  made  as  directed  for  salmon  sauce  mate- 
lote. 

This  fish  may  also  be  served  with  caper  sauce,  as  directed  for 
the  skate ;  the  smaller  ones  are  the  best ;  the  remains  of  a  pike 
placed  in  the  oven  the  next  day,  with  a  cover  over  it  and  a  lit- 
tle more  sauce  added,  is  very  nice. 

250.  Baked  Carp. — Procure  a  good-sized  carp,  stuff  it,  then 
put  it  into  a  baking-dish,  with  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  tur- 
nip, one  head  of  celery,  and  a  good  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme, 
and  bay-leaf;  moisten  with  two  glasses  of  port  wine,  half  a  pint 
of  water,  salt,  pepper,  and  oil,  and  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven 
about  two  hours  to  bake  ;  try  if  done  with  a  knife,  which  is 
the  case  if  the  flesh  leaves  the  bone  easily,  dress  upon  a  dish 
without  a  napkin,  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  mince 
a  large  Spanish  onion  with  two  common  ones,  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  three  spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  saute  rather  a 
yellow  color,  add  two  glasses  of  port  wine  and  one  spoonful  of 
flour,  mix  all  well  together,  add  a  pint  of  broth  (reserved  from 
some  soup)  or  water,  with  half  an  ounce  of  glaze,  or  half  a  gill 
of  brown  gravy,  or  a  few  drops  of  coloring,  boil  it  up,  drain  the 
stock  the  carp  was  cooked  in  from  the  vegetables,  which  also 
add  to  the  sauce ;  boil  well  at  the  corner  of  the  stove,  skim, 
and  when  rather  thick  add  a  teaspoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  one 
of  essence  of  anchovies,  twelve  pickled  mushrooms,  and  a  little 
cayenne  pepper,  pour  all  the  liquor  drained  from  the  fish  out  of 
your  dish,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

251.  Carp,  Sauce  Matelote. — Put  your  carp  in  a  small  oval 
fish-kettle,  with  wine  and  vegetables  as  in  the  last,  to  which  add 
also  a  pint  of  water  and  a  little  salt,  with  a  few  cloves  and  pep- 
percorns ;  put  the  lid  upon  the  fish-kettle,  and  stand  it  over  a 


FISH.  107 

moderate  fire  to  stew  about  an  hour,  according  to  the  size ; 
when  done,  drain  well,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and 
sauce  over  with  a  matelote  sauce,  made  as  directed  for  salmon 
sauce  matelote,  or  caper  sauce,  as  for  skate ;  small  carp  are  very 
good-flavored,  bread-crumbed  and  fried. 


Trout. — There  are  several  kinds,  none  of  which,  it  seems,  were  known 
to  the  Romans.  This  is  the  salmon  of  fresh  water,  and  bears  a  very 
close  resemblance  to  it  in  flavor.  They  grow  to  a  very  large  size ;  I 
partook  of  part  of  one  weighing  twenty -six  pounds,  which  was  caught 
in  the  Lake  of  Killamey,  in  July,  1848.  They  have  different  names  in 
various  parts  of  Great  Britain,  but  there  is  the  common  trout,  the  white 
trout,  and  the  sea  trout ;  the  white  trout  never  grows  very  large,  but 
the  sea  trout  does,  and  is  of  a  very  fine  flavor. 

River  Trout,  when  fresh,  have  the  most  beautiful  skin  imaginable,  the 
golden  and  sometimes  silvery  tint  of  which  makes  me  term  it  the  sister 
fish  of  the  red  (sea)  mullet ;  should  the  gills  be  pink  instead  of  red,  and 
the  skin  dry  (which  is  frequently  the  case  on  the  second  day),  they  may 
still  be  eatable,  but  their  succulence  goes  with  their  beauty.  Clean 
them  as  directed  for  salmoa 

252.  Trout  a  la  Twickenham. — When  you  have  cleaned 
your  trout,  put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  to  which 
you  have  added  a  good  handful  of  salt,  and  a  wineglassful  of 
vinegar ;  boil  gently  about  twenty  minutes,  or  according  to 
their  size,  dress  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  melted  butter,  into 
which  you  have  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  gherkins,  two 
sprigs  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  in  a  boat. 

The  remains  of  trout,  salmon,  or  mackerel  are  excellent 
pickled : — put  three  onions  in  slices  in  a  stewpan,  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  one  turnip,  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme,  and 
bay-leaf,  pass  them  five  minutes  over  the  fire,  add  a  pint  of 
water  and  a  pint  of  vinegar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  one 
of  pepper,  boil  until  the  onions  are  tender,  then  strain  it  through 
a  sieve  over  the  fish ;  it  will  keep  some  time  if  required,  and 
then  do  to  pickle  more  fish  by  boiling  over  again. 


253.  Trout  a  la  Burton. — Boil  the  trout  as  in  the  last; 
then  put  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  upon 
the  point  of  boiling  add  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  cream  (dress  the  fish  upon  a  <£sh  without  a 


108  FISH. 


napkin),  put  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  into  the  sauce ;  shake  round  over  the  fire,  but 
do  not  let  it  boil ;  sauce  over  the  fish,  sprinkle  some  chopped 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Perch  were  known  to  the  Romans,  and  those  they  received  from 
Britain  were  considered  the  best.  They  do  not  grow  to  a  very  large 
size,  four  pounds  being  considered  a  large  one.  When  fresh,  are  red- 
dish at  the  eyes  and  gills.  These  fish,  having  a  great  objection  to  part 
with  their  scales,  must  be  scraped  almost  alive,  forming  the  fish  into 
the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  and  scraping  with  an  oyster-knife ;  open  the 
belly,  take  out  the  interior,  pull  away  the  gills,  and  wash  weh1.  When 
large,  they  are  frequently  boiled  with  the  scales  on,  and  they  are  taken 
off  afterwards,  which  is  much  easier. 

254.  Perch  sauted  in  Butter. — Clean  the  fish  as  explained 
above,  dry  well,  make  an  incision  upon  each  side  with  a  knife, 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan  over  a  slow 
fire,  lay  in  the  fish,  season  with  salt,  and  saute  gently,  turning 
them  over  when  half  done ;  when  done,  dress  upon  a  napkin, 
and  serve  melted  butter  in  a  boat,  or  shrimp  sauce.  Small 
ones  should  be  dressed  thus. 


255.  Perch,  Hampton  Court  fashion. — Cook  the  fish  as 
above,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  six  spoonfuls 
of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  salt  and  the  juice  of 
a  lemon ;  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  stir  in  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream ;  do  not  let  it  boil ; 
blanch  about  twenty  small  sprigs  of  parsley  in  boiling  water 
ten  minutes,  and  some  small  pieces  of  rind  of  lemon  for  one  min- 
ute, drain,  and  put  them  in  the  sauce,  which  pour  over  the  fish, 
and  serve. 

Perch  may  also  be  served  plain  boiled  or  stewed  as  directed 
for  tench,  with  sauce  served  separate. 


256.  Steioed  Tench. — Put  two  onions,  a  carrot,  and  turnip, 
cut  in  slices,  into  a  stewpan,  or  very  small  fish-kettle,  with  a 
good  bouquet  of  parsley,  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme,  one  bay-leaf, 
six  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  two 
glasses  of  sherry ;  lay  your  tench  over  (it  will  require  four  for  a 
dish,  and  they  may  be  either  cooked  whole  or  each  one  cut  into 


FISH.  109 


two  or  three  pieces),  add  a  pint  of  water,  cover  down  close,  and 
stew  rather  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  about  half  an  hour ;  take 
them  out,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  nap- 
kin, and  pour  a  sauce  over  made  as  directed  for  sauce  matelote, 
cream  sauce,  or  Beyrout. 


25*7.  Tench  with  Anchovy  Butter. — Cook  the  tench  as  in 
the  last,  but  they  may  be  plain  boiled  in  salt  and  water ;  dress 
upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  then  put  six  spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  one  of  milk ;  place  it  upon  the  fire, 
and,  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  add  an  ounce  of  anchovy 
butter ;  shake  it  round  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted, 
when  sauce  over  and  serve. 


The  Eel  is  greatly  esteemed  in  all  countries,  but  it  differs  in  taste  ac- 
cording to  the  river  from  whence  it  is  taken ;  although  we  have  some 
very  fine  eels  in  the  river  Thames,  yet  our  principal  supply  is  received 
from  Holland,  and  the  fish  which  come  from  thence  are  much  improved 
in  flavor  by  the  voyage,  and  even  increase  in  size.  They  arrive  in  the 
river  Thames  in  vessels  called  eel  scootes  (schuyts),  of  which  four  have 
been  allowed,  for  centuries,  to  moor  opposite  the  Custom  House,  and 
the  others  are  obliged  to  remain  in  Erith  Hole  until  there  is  room  for 
them,  wliich  greatly  improves  the  fish :  the  value  of  those  imported  into 
Lond,on  last  year  amounted  to  132,600/.  Nothing  is  more  difficult  to 
kill  than  eels ;  and  it  is  only  by  knocking  their  heads  upon  a  block  or 
hard  substance,  and  stunning  them,  that  they  suffer  least.  Take  the 
head  in  your  hand  with  a  cloth,  and  just  cut  through  the  skin  round  the 
neck,  which  turn  down  about  an  inch ;  then  pull  the  head  with  one  hand, 
and  the  skin  with  the  other,  it  will  come  off  with  facility ;  open  the  belly, 
take  out  the  interior  without  breaking  the  gall,  and  cut  off  the  bristles 
which  run  up  the  back  They  are  in  season  all  the  year  round. 


258.  Eels,  fried. — Cut  your  eels  into  pieces  three  inches 
long,  dip  the  pieces  into  flour,  egg  over  with  a  paste  brush,  and 
throw  them  into  some  bread-crumbs ;  fry  in  hot  lard  as  directed 
for  fried  soles. 


259.  Stewed  Eels,  Sauce  Matelote. — Procure  as  large  eels  as 
possible,  which  cut  into  pieces  three  inches  long,  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan,  with  an  onion,  a  bouquet  of  two  bay-leaves,  a 
sprig  of  thyme  and  parsley,  six  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  glass 


110  FISH. 

of  sherry,  and  two  of  water ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate 
fire,  and  let  simmer  about  twenty  minutes,  or  according  to  the 
size  of  the  eels ;  when  done,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  dress  them  in 
pyramid  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  with  a  matelote  sauce 
over,  made  as  directed  for  salmon  sauce  matelote,  but  using  the 
stock  your  eels  have  been  cooked  in  to  make  the  sauce,  having 
previously  well  boiled  it  to  extract  all  the  fat. 

260.  Eels  a  la  Tartare. — Fry  as  directed  above,  and  serve 
on  some  Tartare  sauce ;  or  partly  stew  first,  and,  when  cold, 
egg,  bread-crumb,  and  broil  gently. 

261.  Spitchcocked  Eels,  in  some  parts  of  England,  are  cooked 
with  the  skins  on.     They  should  be  properly  cleaned,  and  split 
down  the  back,  and  bone  taken  out,  and  cut  into  pieces  of  about 
four  inches  long ;  egg  the  inside  and  throw  over  some  bread- 
crumbs, in  which  have  been  mixed  some  chopped  parsley,  a 
little  dried  thyme,  and  some  cayenne ;  place  them  in  a  Dutch 
oven  before  the  fire,  and  whilst  cooking,  baste  them  with  butter 
in  which  some  essence  of  anchovies  has  been  mixed.     The  time 
they  take  cooking  depends  on  the  size,  but  may  be  known  by 
the  skin  turning  up. 


262.  Conger  Eel  is  little  appreciated  in  this  country,  although 
amongst  the  working  class  of  our  neighbors,  more  particularly 
the  French,  it  is  an  article  of  great  consumption.     If  alive,  its 
head  should  be  cut  off,  and  it  should  bleed  as  much  as  possible ; 
but  if  dead,  the  pieces  should  be  put  into  lukewarm  water  to 
disgorge  previous  to  being  cooked.     The  young  fry  are  exceed- 
ingly good,  and  may  be  dressed  like  fresh-water  eels.     The  large 
ones  may  be  made  into  soup ;  and  can  also  be  cooked  like 
sturgeon. 

263.  French  Angler's  way  of  Stewing  Fish. — Take  about 
four  pounds  or  less  of  all  kinds  of  fish,  that  is,  carp,  pike,  trout, 
tench,  eels,  <fec.,  or  any  one  of  them,  cut  them  into  nice  middle- 
sized  pieces,  no  matter  the  size  of  the  fish — let  the  pieces  be  of 
equal  size;  put  them  in  a  black  pot  or  stewpan,  season  over 


FISH    SAUCES.  Ill 


with  nearly  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  half  one  of  pepper,  half  one 
of -sugar,  four  good-sized  onions,  sliced  thin,  add  a  half  bottle  of 
common  French  wine,  or  four  glasses  of  port  or  sherry,  half  a 
pint  of  water,  set  it  on  the  fire  to  stew,  gently  tossing  it  now  and 
then ;  when  tender,  which  you  may  easily  ascertain  by  feeling 
with  your  finger  the  different  pieces,  mix  a  spoonful  of  flour 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  which  put  bit  by  bit  in  the  pan,  move 
it  round  by  shaking  the  pan,  not  with  any  spoon ;  boil  a  few 
minutes  longer,  and  serve,  dishing  the  fish  in  pyramid,  sauce 
over ;  if  the  sauce  is  too  thin,  reduce  it  till  it  adheres  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon ;  taste,  if  it  is  highly  seasoned,  a  few  sprigs 
of  thyme  or  bay-leaf  may  be  added.  Some  of  the  fish  may  be 
done  sooner  than  the  others ;  if  so,  take  them  out  first,  and  keep 
warm  until  all  are  done.  The  motive  of  mixing  fish  is,  that  it 
is  supposed  the  flavor  of  all  together  is  finer  than  one  alone. 
Conger  eel  is  also  done  in  this  way. 


FISH  SAUCES. 

IN  all  ages  and  countries  at  all  removed  from  barbarism,  where  fish 
has  formed  an  article  of  diet,  sauces  of  various  kinds  have  been  an  ac- 
companiment. With  the  Romans,  in  the  time  of  Lucullus,  great  care 
was  observed  in  their  preparation ;  amongst  others  which  they  used,  and 
the  most  celebrated,  was  the  Garum  and  the  Muria. 

The  Garum  was  the  sauce  the  most  esteemed  and  the  most  expen- 
sive ;  its  composition  is  unknown.  This  is  a  subject  well  worth  the  at- 
tention of  the  epicures  of  the  present  day  ;  they  should  subscribe  and  offer 
a  premium  for  that  which,  in  their  opinion,  may  resemble  it :  it  is  a  sub- 
ject well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  Professors  of  our  Universities. 
Perhaps  some  leaf  yet  undiscovered,  that  may  have  escaped  the  confla- 
gration of  Alexandria,  might  throw  some  light  upon  so  interesting  a  sub- 
ject. It  appears,  that  mushrooms  entered  greatly  into  its  composition ; 
and  that  parts  of  mackerel,  or  of  that  species,  formed  another.  The 
question  is,  at  what  time  of  the  year  were  mushrooms  in  season  there ; 
and  if  at  that  period  mackerel,  or  what  species  of  mackerel  have  soft 
roes,  as  I  think  it  probable  that  they  entered  into  its  composition,  as  an 
island  near  Carthaginia,  where  they  were  caught,  was  called  Scombraria, 
and  that  which  was  prepared  by  a  company  in  that  town,  and  which 
was  considered  the  best,  was  called  Garum  Sociorum. 

The  Muria  was  the  liquid  in  which  the  tunny  was  pickled,  and  no 
doubt  very  similar  to  our  essence  of  anchovies.  Those  most  generally 


112  FISH    SAUCES. 


in  use  at  the  present  day  are  the  following,  in  addition  to  which  there 
are  various  kinds  made  and  sold  in  bottles,  some  of  which  are  much 
cheaper  to  buy  than  to  make. 


264.  Melted  Butter. — Put  into  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, not  too  hard,  also  a  good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  both 
well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  without  putting  it  on  the  fire ;  when 
forming  a  smooth  paste,  add  to  it  a  little  better  than  half  a  pint 
of  water ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  not  too  full,  the  sixth 
part  that  of  pepper ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  stir  round  continually 
until  on  the  point  of  boiling ;  take  it  off,  add  a  teaspoonful  oif 
brown  vinegar,  then  add  one  ounce  more  of  fresh  butter,  which 
stir  in  your  sauce  till  melted,  then  use  where  required ;  a  little 
nutmeg  grated  may  be  introduced ;  it  ought,  when  done,  to 
adhere  lightly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  but  transparent,  not 
pasty ;  it  may  also,  if  required,  be  passed  through  a  tammy  or 
sieve.     If  wanted  plainer,  the  last  butter  may  be  omitted. 

265.  Anchovy  Sauce. — Make  the  same  quantity  of  melted 
butter  as  in  the  last,  but  omit  the  salt,  and  add  three  good  table- 
spoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovies. 

266.  Fennel  Sauce. — This  is  a  sauce  principally  used  for 
boiled  mackerel.     Make  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  as 
in  the  last,  to  which  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  chopped  fen- 
nel ;  it  is  usually  served  in  a  boat. 

267.  Egg  Sauce  is  generally  served  with  salt-fish  or  haddock. 
Boil  six  eggs  ten  minutes,  let  them  get  cold,  then  cut  them  in 
pieces  about  the  size  of  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with 
three  parts  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  add  an  ounce  more  fresh 
butter,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  keep  the  stewpan  moving 
round  over  the  fire  until  the  whole  is  very  hot,  and  serve  in  a 
boat. 

268.  Shrimp  Sauce. — Make  the  same  quantity  of  melted 
butter  as  before,  to  which  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  essence 
of  shrimps,  but  omitting  the  salt ;  add  half  a  pint  of  picked 


FISH    SAUCES.  113 


shrimps,  and  serve  in  a  boat.     If  no  essence  of  shrimps,  some 
anchovy  sauce  may  be  served  with  shrimps  in  it  as  a  substitute. 


269.  Shrimp  Sauce  is  also  very  good  as  follows :  Pound 
half  a  pint  of  shrimps,  skins  and  all,  in  a  mortar,  and  boil  them 
ten  minutes  in  half  a  pint  of  water ;  pass  the  liquor  through  a 
hair  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  and  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
two  walnuts,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  good  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  stir  it  round  over  the  fire  until  upon  the  point  of  boiling  ; 
if  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  water ;  season  with  a  little  cay- 
enne, and  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies  ;  serve  very  hot ; 
a  few  picked  shrimps  might  also  be  served  in  it. 


270.  Caper  Sauce. — Put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  on  the 
point  of  boiling,  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  capers ;  shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire  until 
the  butter  is  melted,  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve 
where  directed. 


271.  Lobster  Sauce. — Put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted         ^[ 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  cut  up  a  small-sized  lobster  into  dice,  make 

a  quarter  of  ar  pound  of  lobster  butter  with  the  spawn,  as  di- 
rected ;  when  the  melted  butter  is  upon  the  point  of  boiling, 
add  the  lobster  butter,  stir  the  sauce  round  over  the  fire  until 
the  butter  is  melted,  season  with  a  little  essence  of  anchovies,<r< 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of 
cayenne  pepper ;  pass  it  through  a  tammy  into  another  stew- 
pan, and  add  the  flesh  of  the  lobster ;  when  hot,  it  is  ready  to 
serve  where  required.  This  sauce  must  be  quite  red ;  if  no  red 
spawn  in  the  lobster,  use  live  spawn. 

272.  New  and  Economical  Lobster   Sauce. — Should  you 
require  to  use  the  solid  flesh  of  a  lobster  for  salad,  or  any  other 
purpose,  pound  the  soft  part  and  shell  together  (in  a  mortar) 
very  fine,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  covered  with  a  pint  of 
boiling  water ;  place  it  over  the  fire  to  simmer  for  ten  minutes, 
then  pass  the  liquor  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin ;  put 


114  FISH    SAUCES. 


three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  into  which  rub  (cold)  a 
good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add  the  liquor  from  the  lobster, 
place  it  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until  upon  the  point  of  boiling, 
season  with  a  little  cayenne,  and  add  a  piece  of  anchovy  but- 
ter, the  size  of  a  walnut ;  or,  if  any  red  spawn  in  the  lobster, 
mix  it  with  butter,  as  in  the  last,  and  add  it,  with  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  just  before  serving.  An  anchovy  pounded  with 
the  lobster-shells  would  be  an  improvement,  and  part  of  the 
flesh  of  the  lobster  might  be  served  in  the  sauce. 

273.  Lobster  Sauce  a  la  Creme. — Cut  a  small  lobster  into 
slices  the  size  of  half-crown  pieces,  which  put  into  a  stewpan ; 
pound  the  soft  and  white  parts,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and 
rub  it  through  a  sieve ;  pour  ten  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
and  two  of  cream,  over  the  slices  in  the  stewpan,  add  half  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper, 
and  a  little  cayenne ;  warm  gently,  and  when  upon  the  point 
of  boiling,  add  the  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  thick 
cream,  shake  round  over  the  fire  until  quite  hot,  when  it  is 
ready  to  serve. 


274.  Lobster  Sauce  simplified. — Put  the  slices  of  lobster,  as 
in  the  last,  into  a  stewpan,  with  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  add 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  cayenne,  two  cloves,  and  half  a  blade  of 
mace ;  set  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling,  add  a  piece  of 
butter  of  the  size  of  two  walnuts,  with  which  you  have  mixed 
a  little  flour;  shake  round  over  the  fire,  and  when  getting 
rather  thick,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  if  handy,  and  serve 
very  hot. 


275.  Beyrout  Sauce. — Put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
onions  into  a  stewpan,  with  one  of  Chili  vinegar  and  one  of 
common  ditto,  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  four  spoonfuls  of  brown 
gravy,  two  of  mushroom  catsup,  and  two  of  Harvey  sauce ; 
place  it  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  boiling,  then  place 
it  at  the  corner  to  simmer  five  minutes,  skim  well,  then  place 
it  again  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  thickish,  to  adhere 
to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  es- 
sence of  anchovies,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar ;  it  is  then 
ready  to  serve. 


FISH    SAUCES.  115 


The  above,  although  a  fish  sauce,  may  be  used  for  meat  or 
poultry,  by  omitting  the  anchovy,  and  adding  more  Harvey 
sauce.  If  no  brown  gravy,  add  water  and  a  little  coloring. 

276.  Oyster  Sauce. — Mix  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  two  ounces  of  flour,  then  blanch  and  beard  three 
dozen  oysters,  put  the  oysters  into  another  stewpan,  add  beards 
and  liquor  to  the  flour  and  butter,  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  two 
cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  and  six  peppercorns ;  place  it  over 
the  fire,  keep  stirring,  and  boil  it  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  one  of  Harvey  sauce, 
pass  it  through  a  tammy  over  the  oysters,  make  the  whole  very 
hot  without  boiling,  and  serve.     A  less  quantity  may  be  made, 
using  less  proportions. 

277.  Another  method. — Put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  into  a 
stewpan,  with  the  liquor  and  beards  of  three  dozen  oysters  (as 
above),  six  peppercorns,  two  cloves,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace ; 
boil  it  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  spoonful  of  essence  of  ancho- 
vies, a  little  cayenne  and  salt  if  required ;  pass  it  through  a 
tammy,  or  hair  sieve,  over  the  oysters,  as  in  the  last. 


278.  A  plainer  method. — Blanch  three  dozen  of   oysters, 
which  again  put  into  the  stewpan,  with  their  liquor  (after  hav- 
ing detached  the  beards),  add  six  peppercorns  and  half  a  blade 
of  mace ;  place  them  over  the  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  sim- 
mer, add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you 
have  mixed  sufficient  flour  to  form  a  paste,  breaking  it  in  four 
or  five  pieces ;  shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire,  and  when 
upon  the  point  of  boiling,  and  becoming  thick,  add  half  a  gill 
of  milk,  or  more  if  required ;  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovies ;  serve  very 
hot. 

279.  Mussel  Sauce. — Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  oyster 
sauce,  using  only  the  liquor  of  the  mussels  (not  the  beards) 
instead  of  the  oysters,  and  serving  the  mussels  in  the  sauce ; 
about  four  dozen  would  be  sufficient. 


116  FISH    SAUCES. 


280.  Cream  Sauce. — Put  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  the  bottom 
of  a  stewpan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  white  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  hard  fresh  butter ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire, 
and  commence  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  (taking  it  from 
the  fire  now  and  then  when  getting  too  hot),  until  the  butter 
has  gradually  melted  and  thickened  with  the  eggs  (great  care 
must  be  exercised,  for  if  it  should  become  too  hot,  the  eggs 
would  curdle  and  render  the  sauce  useless) ;  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  melted  butter ;   stir  altogether  over  the  fire,  without 
permitting  it  to  boil,  pass  it  through  a  tammy  into  another 
stewpan ;  when  wanted,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  hot.     This 
sauce  may  be  served  with  any  description  of  boiled  fish. 

281.  Matelote  Sauce. — For  about  a  pound-slice  of  salmon 
make  the  following  quantity  of  sauce :  peel  thirty  button  on- 
ions, and  put  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  in  a  quart-size  stew- 
pan, place  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  when  melted  and  getting 
brown,  add  a  piece  of  butter  (the  size  of  two  walnuts)  and  the 
onions,  toss  them  over  now  and  then  until  rather  brown,  then 
add  a  glass  of  sherry,  let  it  boil,  then  add  half  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce,  and  a  gill  of  broth,  simmer  at  the  corner  of  the 
fire  until  the  onions  are  quite  tender,  skim  it  well,  and  add  a 
few  mushrooms,  if  handy,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar, 
and  sauce  over  any  kind  of  fish  where  described.     The  addi- 
tion of  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies  is  an  improve- 
ment.    Use  where  directed. 

282.  Matelote  Sauce  simplified. — Proceed  as  above  respect- 
ing the  onions,  only  add  a  fourth  more  butter,  and  fry  them  a 
little  browner ;  then  add  a  glass  of  sherry  and  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  flour,  which  stir  round  gently  with  a  small  wooden  spoon, 
add  to  it  about  a  pint  of  water,  stir  now  and  then  till  boiling, 
add  three  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  pepper,  and 
a  bouquet  garni,  simmer  and  skim,  add  a  few  drops  of  coloring 
to  give  it  a  nice  brown  color ;  when  ready  to  serve,  add  a  good 
tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence ;  it  ought  to  adhere  lightly  to 
the  back  of  the  spoon,  but  not  be  too  thick ;  sauce  over  or  un- 
der, as  directed ;  small  pieces  of  glaze,  if  handy,  put  into  it  is 
an  improvement,  also  using  broth  instead  of  water ;  oysters  and 


REMOVES.  117 


mushrooms  may  be  introduced,  also  a  little  cayenne  pepper. 
This  sauce  must  be  very  savory. 


283.  Lobster  Butter. — Procure  half  a  lobster,  quite  full  of 
spawn,  which  take  out  and  pound  well  in  a  mortar ;  then  add 
six  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  mix  well  together,  then  rub  it  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted.  The  flesh 
can  be  used  for  any  other  dish. 


284.  Anchovy  Butter. — Take  the  bones  from  six  anchovies, 
wash  the  fillets,  and  dry  them  upon  a  cloth,  pound  them  well 
in  a  mortar,  add  six  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  mix  well  together, 
and  proceed  as  in  the  last. 

285.  Maltre  d?  Hotel  Butter. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter  upon  a  plate,  with  one  good  tablespoonful  of  chop- 
ped parsley,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  quarter  that  quantity  of  white  pepper ;  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, and  put  in  a  cool  place  till  required. 

286.  Ravigote  Butter. — Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  instead 
of  parsley,  use  one  spoonful  of  chopped  tarragon,  and  one  of 
chervil,  and  add  half  a  spoonful  of  Chili  vinegar. 


REMOVES. 

THESE  are  dishes  which  remove  the  fish  and  soup,  served  upon  large 
dishes,  and  placed  at  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  table ;  great  care  should 
be  evinced  in  cooking  them,  as  they  are  the  "  piece  de  resistance"  of  the 
dinner.  I  must  also  observe  that  a  few  of  the  receipts  appear  a  little 
complicated,  but  which  will  not  prove  to  be  the  case  if  tried  once  or 
twice.  In  the  Entrees  will  be  found  how  the  remains  of  them  may  be 


Since  the  science  of  analytical  chemistry  has  become  so  perfect,  and 
has  shown  us  the  elements  of  which  every  substance  and  liquid  is  com- 
posed, and  that,  in  order  to  continue  them  in  a  state  of  action,  and  pre- 
vent decomposition,  it  is  necessary  to  repair  the  loss  which  they  are 
every  moment  undergoing,  even  from  man,  through  every  living 


118  REMOVES. 


thing,  down  to  earth  and  water.  But  as  I  am  not  going  to  write  you 
a  lecture  on  chemistry,  which  will  be  so  much  more  easy  to  read  in 
Liebig,  in  order  for  you  to  choose  your  meat  and  viands  with  economy 
in  regard  to  actual  nourishment,  it  is  necessary  I  should  tell  you,  that, 
from  infancy  to  old  age,  the  human  race  must  be  continually  imbibing 
elements  of  formation  or  reparation,  even  from  the  lime  in  the  mother's 
milk,  which  forms  the  bones,  to  the  osmazome  extracted  from  animal 
matters,  which  creates  a  more  lively  circulation  of  the  blood  when  it 
becomes  sluggish  and  duU  in  old  age.  Each  period,  occupation,  and 
station  in  life  requires  different  substances  of  reparation,  with  which  we 
ought  to  make  ourselves  intimately  acquainted.  Amongst  the  first,  and 
that  most  generally  in  use  with  man,  is  the  ox,  the  principal  nourish- 
ment of  which  consists  in  the  osmazome,  which  is  that  liquid  part  of 
the  meat  that  is  extracted  by  water  at  blood-heat.  It  is  this  which  is 
the  foundation  and  flavor  of  all  soups,  which  gives  the  flavor  to  all 
meats,  and  which,  on  becoming  candied  by  heat,  forms  the  crust  of 
roast  meats. 

The  osmazome  is  found  principally  in  all  adult  animals  having  a  dark 
flesh,  and  to  a  very  small  extent  in  those  having  a  white  flesh ;  or  even 
in  the  white  flesh  of  fowls,  but  in  their  back  and  legs,  in  which  parts 
lies  their  principal  flavor.  The  bones  of  the  ox  contain  gelatine  and 
phosphate  of  lime.  The  gelatine  is  also  found  in  the  muscles  and  other 
cartilaginous  parts  of  the  animal ;  it  is  extracted  by  boiling  water,  and 
coagulates  at  the  ordinary  temperature  of  the  atmosphere ;  it  is  the 
foundation  of  all  jellies,  blancmanges,  and  other  similar  preparations. 

The  albumen  is  also  found  in  the  flesh,  and  congeals  as  soon  as  the 
heat  rises  beyond  that  of  the  blood ;  it  is  this  which  is  the  scum  on  the 
pot  when  the  meat  is  boiling. 

BEEF. — All  oxen  should  fast  from  twenty-four  to  forty-eight  hours 
before  being  killed ;  when  killed  and  skinned,  they  are  opened  and  the 
inside  cleaned ;  they  are  then  hung  up,  and  ought  to  be  exposed  to  a 
draught  until  cold,  and  then  divided  down  the  back  into  two  parts, 
leaving  the  head  whole ;  these  sides  are  then  divided  into  two,  called 
the  fore  and  hind-quarters :  the  fore-quarter  contains  the  shin,  the  clod 
and  stickings,  leg  of  mutton  piece,  chuck,  middle  rib,  fore  rib ;  the 
hind- quarter  consists  of  the  rump,  sirloin,  thin  and  thick  flank,  the 
veiny-piece,  aitch-bone,  buttock  or  round,  and  leg  and  foot ;  the  head 
contains  the  tongue,  palate,  and  brains ;  the  entrails  consist  of  the 
sweetbread,  kidneys,  skirts,  and  the  double  roll  and  reed  tripe.  When 
the  meat  is  cut  up,  the  following  kernels  are  taken  out :  those  in  the 
neck,  where  the  shoulder  clod  is  removed ;  two  from  the  round,  the 
pope's  eye,  and  one  from  the  flap;  one  in  the  thick  flap  in  the 
middle  of  the  flank,  and  another  between  the  rump  and  aitch-bone : 
these  must  be  removed  to  preserve  the  beef,  particularly  in  hot  weather. 
The  flavor  and  quality  of  the  meat  depend  on  the  country  from  whence 
it  comes,  and  the  nature  of  its  food.*  As  a  general  rule,  the  flesh  ought 
to  be  of  a  dark  red  color,  smooth,  open-grained,  with  fat  rather  white 
than  yellow  running  in  thin  streaks  through  the  flesh.  Ox-beef  is  the 

*  See  future  Letters. 


REMOVES.  119 


largest  and  richest,  but  heifer  is  better,  if  well  fed.  It  should  be  hung 
for  two  days  previous  to  using,  in  a  cool  place,  free  from  draught ;  it 
will  keep  good  from  three  to  six  days,  according  to  the  weather. 


287.  Sirloin  of  Beef  should  never  be  less  than  three  of  the 
short  ribs,  and  will  weigh  more  or  less  according  to  the  size  of 
the  ox  from  which  they  are  taken  ;  that  from  a  small,  well-fed 
heifer  I  consider  the  best,  and  will  weigh  about  twelve  pounds, 
and  take  about  two  hours  to  roast,  depending  much  on  the  fire. 
Having  spitted  or  hung  the  joint,  cover  it  with  buttered  paper, 
and  place  it  about  eighteen  inches  from  the  fire ;  about  one 
hour  after  it  has  been  down,  remove  the  paper  and  place  the 
joint  nearer  the  fire,  and  put  half  a  pint  of  water,  with  a  little 
salt,  in  the  dripping-pan ;  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before 
removing  from  the  fire,  dredge  it  with  flour  and  salt  from  the 
dredging-box ;  when  taken  from  the  fire,  empty  the  contents 
of  the  dripping-pan  into  a  basin,  from  which  remove  the  fat ; 
pour  the  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  then  place  the  joint  on  it ; 
serve  some  scraped  horse-radish  separate.  A  Yorkshire  pud- 
ding is  very  excellent  when  cooked  under  this  joint. 


288.  Ribs  of  Beef. — This  piece  should  consist  of  at  least 
three  ribs ;  the  bones  are  generally  sawn  through  about  three 
inches  from  the  top  ;  these  should  be  removed,  leaving  the  flap, 
which  fold  under  and  fix  with  wooden  skewers.     This,  in  roast- 
ing, should  be  prepared  and  dredged  as  the  sirloin.     A  drop  of 
coloring  gives  the  gravy  an  inviting  appearance. 

289.  Ribs  of  Beef  braised. — Take  four  ribs,  not  too  fat  nor 
too  thick,  remove  the  chine-bone  neatly,  and  four  inches  of  the 
tips  of  the  rib-bones,  run  with  a  larding-needle  several  pieces 
of  fat  bacon  through  the  thick  part,  trim  over  the  flap  and  tie 
it  well  round,  put  it  into  the  braising-pan ;  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  six  teaspoon- 
mis  of  salt  into  the  pan,  cover  it  over,  and  place  it  on  a  slow 
fire  for  thirty  minutes,  stirring  it  now  and  then,  then  add  two 
quarts  of  water ;  at  the  expiration  of  one  hour  and  a  half,  add 
eighty  small  button  onions  and  sixty  small  young  carrots,  or 
pieces  of  large  ones  cut  in  the  shape,  which  place  around  the 
meat ;  a  bouquet  of  ten  sprigs  of  parsley,  three  bay-leaves,  and 


120  REMOVES. 


four  sprigs  of  thyme  tied  together ;  half  an  hour  after,  add 
sixty  round  pieces  of  turnip ;  then  place  some  live  coals  on  the 
lid,  and  let  it  stew  gently  for  one  hour  and  a  half  longer,  being 
altogether  about  four  hours.  Take  out  the  meat,  remove  the 
string,  and  trim  it.  Skim  off  the  fat  from  the  liquor  in  the 
pan,  remove  the  bouquet,  &c.,  add  a  few  pieces  of  butter  in 
which  have  been  mixed  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  two  of  browning,  stir  gently  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and,  when  just  on  the  boil,  dress  round  the  meat,  and 
serve.  In  case  it  has  reduced  too  much,  add  water. 

The  foregoing  receipt  may  appear  rather  complicated,  and  may  per- 
haps frighten  you,  and  prevent  you  trying  it ;  but  I  assure  you,  if  you 
once  try  it,  you  will  find  it  so  good  as  to  repeat  it,  particularly  as  many 
other  receipts  will  be  referred  to  this  one.  The  vegetables  and  meat 
cold,  are  excellent. 


^  290.  Stewed  Rump  of  Beef.— This  is  a  very  excellent  and  useful 
joint  to  be  continually  kept  in  a  country-house,  where  you  may  be  some 
distance  from  a  butcher's,  as,  when  hung  up  in  a  cool  larder,  it  keeps  good 
for  a  considerable  time,  and  you  never  feel  at  a  loss  should  some  friends 
call  unawares :  after  a  third  of  it  has  been  removed  for  steaks,  pies,  or 
puddings,  the  remainder  makes  an  excellent  joint,  roasted  or  braised  like 
the  ribs,  or  stewed  as  follows : 

Cut  it  away  from  the  bone,  cut  about  twenty  long  pieces  of  fat 
bacon,  which  run  through  the  flesh  in  a  slanting  direction ; 
then  chop  up  the  bone,  place  it  at  the  bottom  of  a  large  stew- 
pan,  with  six  cloves,  three  onions,  one  carrot,  a  turnip,  and  a 
head  of  celery ;  then  lay  in  the  rump  (previously  tying  it  up 
with  string),  which  just  cover  with  water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt  and  two  burnt  onions  (if  handy),  place  upon  the  fire,  and, 
when  boiling,  stand  it  at  the  corner ;  let  it  simmer  nearly  four 
hours,  keeping  it  skimmed ;  when  done,  pass  part  of  the  stock 
it  was  cooked  in  (keeping  the  beef  hot  in  the  remainder) 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin ;  in  another  stewrpan  have 
ready  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  melt  it  over  the  fire,  add 
six  ounces  of  flour,  mix  well  together,  stirring  over  the  fire 
until  becoming  a  little  brownish ;  take  off,  and  when  nearly 
cold  add  two  quarts  of  the  stock,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it 
boils  ;  then  have  four  carrots,  four  turnips  (cut  into  small  pieces 
with  cutters),  and  forty  button  onions  peeled,  put  them  into  the 
sauce,  when  again  boiling  draw  it  to  the  corner,  where  let  sim- 
mer until  tender,  keeping  it  skimmed ;  add  a  little  powdered 


REMOVES.  121 


sugar  and  a  bunch  of  parsley :  if  it  should  become  too  thick, 
add  a  little  more  of  the  stock ;  dress  the  beef  upon  a  dish, 
sauce  round  and  serve.  Brown  sauce  may  be  used,  and  the 
gravy  will  make  excellent  soup. 


291.  Salt  Round  of  Beef. — This  magnificent  joint  is,  in 
general,  too  large  for  small  families,  but  occasionally  it  may  be 
used ;  the  following  is,  therefore,  the  best  method  of  cooking 
it :  having  folded  the  fat  round  it,  and  fastened  it  with  skewers, 
tie  round  it,  not  too  tight,  some  wide  tape  and  a  thin  cloth, 
place  it  in  a  large  stock-pot  with  plenty  of  cold  water,  set  it 
upon  a  good  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  boil,  draw  it  to  the  cor- 
ner, where  let  it  simmer  until  done ;  five  hours  will  be  enough 
for  a  large  one  of  thirty  to  thirty-five  pounds ;  when  done, 
remove  the  cloth  and  tape,  and  dish  it  up,  previously  cutting  a 
slice  two  inches  thick  from  the  top,  pouring  a  pint  of  the  hot 
liquor  over  it  when  serving.  To  serve  it  cold,  M.  Soyer,  hi  his 
"  Regenerator,"  thus  describes  it : 

"  After  receiving  the  above  useful  lesson,  and  being  desirous  of  im- 
proving my  profession  in  all  its  branches,  I  remembered  that,  amongst 
the  number  of  joints  boiled  to  serve  cold  for  large  civic,  agricultural,  or 
benevolent  anniversary  dinners,  the  round  of  beef  was  the  most  prom- 
inent, and  having  seen  it  standing  in  dishes  to  get  cold,  with  the  dish 
filled  with  the  gravy  that  runs  from  it,  particularly  if  a  little  over-done, 
caused  me  to  hit  upon  the  following  expedient  to  prevent  the  meat 
losing  so  much  of  its  succulence. 

"  Fill  two  large  tubs  with  cold  water,  into  which  throw  a  few 
pounds  of  rough  ice,  and  when  the  round  is  done,  throw  it, 
cloth  and  all,  into  one  of  the  tubs  of  ice-water ;  let  remain  one 
minute,  when  take  out  and  put  it  into  the  other  tub ;  fill  the 
first  tub  again  with  water,  and  continue  the  above  process  for 
about  twenty  minutes;  then  set  it  upon  a  dish,  leaving  the 
cloth  on  until  the  next  day,  or  until  quite  cold ;  when  opened, 
the  fat  will  be  as  white  as  possible,  besides  having  saved  the 
whole  of  the  gravy.  If  no  ice,  spring  water  will  answer  the 
same  purpose,  but  will  require  to  be  more  frequently  changed ; 
the  same  mode  would  be  equally  successful  with  the  aitch- 
bone." 


292.  Half -Round  of  Beef  (Silver-side)  should  be  put  into 


122  REMOVES. 


cold  water,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil ;  simmer  for  two  hours 
and  a  half,  and  serve  the  same  as  a  round. 


293.  Aitch-bone  of  Beef  (or,  as  I  think  it  ought  to  be  called, 
Edge-bone). — This  is  a  very  nice  joint  for  a  small  family,  but 
not  so  economical  as  is  generally  supposed ;  it  should  be  pickled 
carefully,  and  cooked  in  the  same  way  as  the  round;  one 
weighing  ten  pounds  will  take  two  hours  and  a  half;  it  should 
be  trimmed  on  the  top,  and  served  with  some  of  the  liquor 
under  it.  It  is  very  good  when  fresh  and  braised  like  the 
ribs. 


294.  Salt  Brisket  of  Beef. — This  is  by  no  means  an  economical 
joint,  as  it  loses  considerably  in  cooking ;  it  requires  a  long  time 
to  boil ;  should  it  be  required  as  a  large  cold  joint,  the  following 
is  the  best  plan :  procure  a  nice  brisket  with  as  little  fat  as 
possible,  detach  the  whole  of  the  bones  from  it,  make  a  pickle 
(see  Receipt),  place  it  in  it,  previously  rubbing  it  well  with  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  leave  it  in  the  pickle  from  seven  to  nine  days, 
rubbing  and  turning  it  every  day ;  when  ready  to  cook,  cut  it 
into  two  parts  (one  about  two  inches  longer  than  the  other),  tie 
them  together,  and  afterwards  in  a  clean  cloth,  simmer  it  for 
about  six  or  seven  hours  in  a  large  stock-pot  full  of  water ; 
when  done,  take  it  out  and  let  it  drain,  have  ready  a  large  dish- 
cover,  place  it  upon  a  trivet,  remove  the  cloth  and  string  from 
the  meat,  and  place  it  in  the  cover ;  have  ready  a  piece  of 
board  to  fit  inside  the  cover,  place  it  on  the  meat  with  a  half- 
hundred  weight  on  the  top,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  cold  place 
until  the  next  day,  when  take  it  out,  trim  it,  garnish  it  nicely, 
and  serve.     This  will  keep  good  a  considerable  time,  and  is  ex- 
cellent for  breakfast  or  luncheon;  besides,  it  always  keeps  a 
"  piece  de  resistance"  in  the  larder  in  case  of  accidents.     It  is 
also,  when  fresh,  very  excellent  stewed  like  the  rump  of  beef, 
or  plain  salted. 

295.  Hamburgh  Beef. — The  ribs  are  the  best;  they  should 
be  put  to  soak  in  soft  water  for  twelve  hours,  and  then  put 
into  cold  water  and  boiled  gradually  ;  a  piece  of  three  ribs  will 
take  three  hours;   if  intended  to  be  served  hot,  the  outside 


REMOVES.  123 


should  be  cut  off,  and  the  joint  nicely  trimmed  and  served  up 
with  the  following  garniture  round  it :  take  four  handfuls  of 
brown  kale,  well  washed,  put  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  with  a 
gallon  of  water,  and  let  it  well  boil ;  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  salt  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  put  the 
kale  in,  let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes,  drain  it  and  squeeze  all  the 
water  from  it,  put  it  on  a  chopping-board  and  chop  it  fine,  then 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  nutmeg, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  twenty  roasted  chestnuts  cut  in 
half,  put  it  on  the  fire  and  keep  stirring  it  for  five  minutes :  if 
too  dry,  add  a  little  milk  or  gravy,  and  place  it  on  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  wanted. 


296.  To  boil  a  pickled  Ox  Tongue. — Put  the  tongue  into  a 
large  stewpan  containing  two  gallons  of  cold  water,  which  set 
upon  the  fire  until  boiling,  when  draw  it  to  the  corner  to  sim- 
mer for  three  hours,  if  a  tongue  weighing  about  six  pounds  ;  but 
the  better  way  to  ascertain  when  done,  is  to  try  it  with  a  truss- 
ing-needle,  or  the  prongs  of  a  fork,  in  the  thickest  part ;  if  tender 
it  is  done,  but  if  hard  it  must  boil  rather  longer.  A  dried  tongue 
should  be  soaked  twenty-four  hours  previously  to  boiling ;  when 
done,  skin  it  and  trim  the  root,  &c.,  and  use  where  directed. 


297.  To  cook  a  fresh  Ox  Tongue. — Put  a  tongue  in  luke- 
warm water  for  twelve  hours  to  disgorge,  then  trim  the  root 
and  scrape  the  tongue  quite  clean ;  have  ready  twenty  pieces  of 
fat  bacon  two  inches  long  and  half  an  inch  square,  which  intro- 
duce with  a  larding  pin  into  the  most  fleshy  part  in  a  slanting 
direction ;  then  rub  the  tongue  all  over  with  salt,  and  run  a  long 
iron  skewer  through  it,  which  tie  upon,  surround  the  tongue 
with  vegetables,  the  same  as  directed  for  turkeys  roasted  and 
braised,  and  roast  for  two  hours  before  a  good  fire ;  twenty 
minutes  before  it  is  done  take  away  the  paper  and  vegetables, 
to  give  a  nice  brown  color ;  when  done  trim  a  little,  to  keep  it 
steady  in  the  dish,  and  garnish  with  any  kind  of  stewed  vege- 
tables, or  cut  it  in  halves  lengthwise  to  form  a  heart,  and  sauce 
over  with  piquante,  tomatos,  or  any  other  sharp  sauces  found 
in  their  series.  If  no  convenience  for  roasting,  put  into  a  stew- 
pan a  piece  of  leg  of  beef  (cut  small)  weighing  two  pounds,  with 


124  REMOVES. 


two  onions,  one  carrot,  two  blades  of  mace,  a  little  thyme  and 
bav-leaf,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  saute  the  whole 
twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred  over  a  moderate  fire,  then 
put  in  the  tongue  (previously  prepared)  and  two  ounces  of  salt, 
cover  with  water,  and  let  boil  gently  four  hours,  skim  and  serve. 
The  stock  would  be  excellent  for  soup  or  brown  sauce  of  any 
kind.  The  remains  could  be  served  in  either  of  the  methods 
directed  for  the  remainder  of  pickled  tongue. 


298.  Rump  Steak  broiled. — Procure  a  steak  cut  nice  and 
even,  of  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness  (if  well  cut  it  will  not 
require  beating),  which  lay  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  sharp  fire ; 
have  a  good  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  that  quantity  of  pep- 
per mixed  together  upon  a  plate,  half  of  which  sprinkle  upon 
the  side  of  the  steak  uppermost,  after  it  has  been  upon  the  fire 
a  couple  of  minutes,  when  turn,  and  sprinkle  the  remainder  of 
the  seasoning  upon  the  other  side ;  it  will  take  about  ten  min- 
utes to  cook  it  to  perfection,  turning  it  occasionally,  and  serve 
upon  a  very  hot  dish,  with  a  little  scraped  horseradish  round. 
If  properly  done,  it  ought  to  be  full  of  gravy,  but  a  great  deal 
depends  upon  the  fire,  which,  if  bad,  causes  the  gravy  to  ooze 
from  the  meat  and  lie  upon  the  top,  which  you  lose  in  turn- 
ing the  steak  over.  A  rump  steak  may  also  be  served  broiled 
as  above,  with  a  little  maitre  d'h6tel,  or  anchovy  butter,  rubbed, 
over  as  soon  as  done,  and  potatoes  cut  the  size  of  half  crown  or 
shilling  pieces,  and  fried  crisp  in  hot  fat ;  dress  round.  Or  a 
steak  may  be  served,  with  a  few  water-cresses,  well  washed,  and 
dried  upon  a  plate  sprinkled  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  vine- 
gar, and  garnished  round ;  a  little  oil  might  also  be  added. 


VEAL  of  about  two  to  three  months  old  is  the  best ;  the  flesh  ought 
to  be  white,  approaching  to  pink,  and  the  fat  firm ;  it  is  cut  up  the  same 
as  mutton,  except  that,  in  the  hind-quarter,  the  loin  is  cut  straight,  leav- 
ing the  aitch-bone  on  it,  which  may  be  either  dressed  on  the  loin  or 
separate.  The  fore-quarter  consists  of  the  shoulder,  neck,  and  breast. 
The  hind-quarter,  the  knuckle,  leg,  fillet,  and  the  loin.  The  head  and 
pluck  consists  of  the  heart,  liver,  nut,  skirts,  melt,  and  the  heart,  throat, 
and  sweetbread. 

The  bull-calf  is  the  best,  the  flesh  is  firmer  grained  or  redder,  and  the 
fat  more  curdled  than  the  cow-calf,  which  latter  is  in  general  preferred, 
being  more  delicate  and  better  adapted  for  made  dishes,  as  having  the 


REMOVES.  125 


udder.  Nothing  can  be  worse  than  veal  if  not  fresh ;  it  should  never 
hang  more  than  two  days  in  summer  and  four  in  winter.  To  be  in  full 
perfection,  the  kidneys  ought  to  be  covered  with  fat,  and  the  veins  in 
the  shoulder  bright  red  or  blue.  It  is  best  from  May  to  September, 
although  it  may  be  had  good  all  the  year.  The  head,  when  fresh,  should 
have  the  eyes  plump  and  lively ;  if  stale,  they  are  sunk  and  wrinkled. 


299.  Fillet  of  Veal. — Choose  it  of  the  best  quality.  Procure 
a  leg,  saw  off  the  knuckle,  take  out  the  bone  in  the  centre  of 
the  Met,  and  fill  up  the  cavity  with  some  stuffing  made  as 
directed  (see  Receipt),  fold  the  udder  and  flap  round,  which  fix 
with  three  skewers ;  place  half  a  sheet  of  buttered  foolscap  paper 
top  and  bottom,  which  tie  over  and  over  with  plenty  of  string, 
run  a  spit  through,  fixing  the  fillet  with  a  holdfast ;  set  down 
to  roast,  placing  it  rather  close  to  the  fire  ten  minutes,  rub  well 
over  with  butter,  then  place  it  at  least  two  feet  and  a  half  from 
the  fire,  to  roast  very  slowly,  giving  it  a  fine  gold  color ;  a  fillet 
weighing  sixteen  pounds  would  require  three  hours  roasting, 
when  done  take  it  up,  detach  all  the  string  and  paper,  trim  the 
top  and  set  it  upon  your  dish ;  have  a  pint  of  melted  butter  in 
a  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  to  which,  when  boiling,  add  four  spoon- 
fuls of  Harvey  sauce,  and  two  of  mushroom  catsup,  mix  well, 
and  pour  round  the  fillet ;  have  also  boiled  nicely  an  ox-tongue, 
which  skin  and  trim,  dress  upon  a  dish  surrounded  with  greens 
or  cabbage  nicely  boiled,  and  serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  the 
fillet. 


300.  Loin  of  Veal. — One  with  plenty  of  fat  and  a  good 
kidney,  from  which  the  chump  and  the  rib-bone  at  the  other 
end  has  been  removed ;  fasten  the  flap  over  the  kidney  with  a 
skewer,  run  a  spit  through  lengthwise,  commencing  at  the  thick 
end,  and  fixing  it  with  a  holdfast,  cover  it  with  buttered  paper ; 
one  of  fourteen  pounds  will  take  about  two  hours  and  a  half  to 
roast.  Serve  with  melted  butter  poured  over. 


301.  Chump  of  Veal  can  be  either  roasted  or  boiled;  one 
about  four  pounds  will  take  one  hour  to  roast,  and  one  hour  and 
a  quarter  to  boil ;  roasted,  serve  like  the  loin  :  boiled,  serve  with 
either  sauces,  Nos.  122,  154,  160. 


126  REMOVES. 


302.  Breast  of  Veal  plain  roasted. — Paper  the  joint,  and 
roast  for  about  one  hour,  and  serve  with  gravy  and  melted 
butter  ;  it  may  be  roasted  with  the  sweetbread  skewered  to  it. 
By  taking  the  tendons  off,  stew  them  for  entrees. 


303.  Shoulder  of  Veal. — One  weighing  fourteen  pounds  will 
take  about  two  hours  and  a  half  to  three  hours  to  roast  or  braise  ; 
if  roasted,  the  same  sauce  as  for  the  loin  (No.  300),  and  braise 
(No.  310). 

304.  Neck  of  Veal. — Procure  about  eight  pounds  of  a  nice 
white  neck  of  veal,  containing  six  or  seven  chops ;  saw  off  un- 
der part  of  the  chine-bone,  so  as  to  give  it  a  nice  square  ap- 
pearance, lard  it  thus :  take  about  twelve  pieces  of  fat  bacon, 
two  inches  long  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  put  the  lard- 
ing-needle  through  the  flesh  of  the  veal  about  one  inch  and  a 
half,  then  put  one  third  of  the  length  of  the  piece  of  bacon  in 
it,  pull  the  needle  out,  and  it  will  leave  the  bacon  in  the  meat, 
showing  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  bacon  outside.     Then 
braise  as  ribs  of  beef.     Two  hours  will  suffice. 


305.  Neck  of  Veal  with  Peas. — Proceed  as  in  the  former 
receipt,  with  the  exception  of  leaving  out  the  vegetables,  and 
adding,  half  an  hour  previous  to  the  meat  being  done,  one  quart 
of  peas,  twelve  button  onions,  and  a  little  more  sugar ;  remove 
the  fat,  and  serve  as  before. 

306.  Neck  of  Veal  with  Haricots. — Proceed  as  before,  sub- 
stituting the  haricots  for  the  peas,  which  must  have  been  boil- 
ed in  plenty  of  water  for  three  or  four  hours  previously.     (See 
Receipt  for  Haricots.) 

307.  Neck  of  Veal  with  New  Potatoes. — As  before,  using 
new  potatoes  in  place  of  the  peas.     Any  other  vegetable,  as 
French  beans,  broad  beans,  &c  may  be  served  with  it  in  the 
same  way. 

308.  Necks  of  Veal  can  be  larded  or  plain  roasted,  or  braised 


REMOVES.  12*7 


in  plain  gravy  as  before,  and  served  with  either  sauces,  Nos. 
150,135,  137,  165. 

309.  Knuckle  of  Veal  is  a  very  favorite  dish  of  mine  :  I  pro- 
cure two  of  them,  which  I  saw  into  three  pieces  each,  and  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  streaked  bacon  two  pounds  in 
weight,  four  onions,  a  carrot,  two  turnips,  and  six  peppercorns, 
place  over  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  a  little  salt,  skim 
well,  and  place  at  the  corner  to  skimmer  gently  for  two  hours, 
take  up,  dress  them  in  your  dish  surrounded  with  the  vegeta- 
bles and  bacon,  and  serve  with  parsley  and  butter  over ;  very 
good  soup  may  be  made  from  the  stock  it  was  boiled  in  if  re- 
quired, or  if  not,  into  glaze,  which  put  by  until  wanted. 


310.  Loin  of  Veal  braised. — This  joint  generally  weighs 
from  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  when  off  a  good  calf;  have  the 
rib-bones  carefully  divided  with  a  saw  so  as  not  to  hurt  the 
fillet,  prepare  the  braising-pan,  and  proceed  as  in  receipt 
(No.  289);  with  the  addition  of  one  pint  more  water,  but  take 
care  not  to  cover  the  meat,  which  might  happen  if  your  stew- 
pan  was  small,  which  otherwise  be  boiling  instead  of  braising ; 
it  will  take  about  three  hours :  be  careful  about  the  fat,  as  this 
joint  produces  a  great  deal ;  taste  the  sauce  before  serving,  in 
case  more  seasoning  is  required,  which  might  be  the  case,  de- 
pending on  the  nature  of  the  veal.  A  good  cook  should  taste 
all  sauces  before  serving. 


311.  Breast  of  Veal  stuffed  and  stewed.— Take  about  eight 
pounds  of  the  breast  of  veal,  put  your  knife  about  half  an  inch 
under  the  skin,  and  open  it  about  three  parts  of  its  width  all  the 
way  down,  then  prepare  some  veal  stuffing,  and  lay  it  in  the 
opening  you  have  made  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  sew  it  up, 
and  proceed  as  receipt  for  shoulder. 

Should  half  the  size  of  either  the  above  dishes  be  required, 
use  but  half  the  vegetables  in  proportion,  and  stew  half  an 
hour  less. 

The  Chump,  Small  Shoulder,  or  pieces  of  the  fillet  may  be 
dressed  in  the  same  way,  but  must  be  larded,  like  the  neck. 

All  the  above  joints  may  be  stewed  in  the  same  way,  with 


128  REMOVES. 


less  vegetables,  and  served  with  sauces  (Nos.  131,  135) ;  the 
gravy  in  which  they  are  stewed  will  always  be  useful  in  the 
kitchen,  or  may  be  reduced  and  served  with  the  joint. 


312.  Shoulder  of  Veal  stuffed  and  stewed. — This  is  a  very 
awkward  joint  to  carve  to  advantage,  and  equally  so  to  cook ;  by 
the  following  plan,  it  goes  further  than  any  otheiv  way. 

Take  the  joint  and  lay  it  with  the  skin-side  downwards, 
with  a  sharp  thin  knife  carefully  detach  the  meat  from  the 
blade-bone,  then  hold  the  shoulder  edgewise  and  detach  the 
meat  from  the  other  side  of  the  bone,  being  careful  not  to  make 
a  hole  in  the  skin ;  then  cut  the  bone  from  the  knuckle  and 
take  it  out ;  you  may  at  first  be  rather  awkward  about  it,  but 
after  once  or  twice  trying,  it  will  become  easy ;  you  may  also 
take  out  the  other  bone,  but  I  prefer  it  in,  as  it  keeps  the  shape 
better :  then  lard  the  lean  part  like  the  neck  in  (No.  304) ;  mix 
some  salt  and  a  little  mixed  spice  together,  with  which  rub  the 
meat  from  whence  the  bone  has  been  cut,  stuff  with  veal  stuf- 
fing, or  sausage-meat,  or  suet  pudding ;  braise,  garnish,  and 
serve  as  (No.  289).  This  being  the  toughest  part  of  the  veal, 
it  should  be  tried  before  taking  up,  to  see  if  it  is  properly  done, 
by  thrusting  a  larding-needle  in  it ;  if  it  goes  in  easily  it  is 
done.  This  joint  is  excellent  cold,  and  should  be  carved  in  thin 
slices  crosswise. 


313.  Calf's  Head. — Choose  one  thick  and  fat,  but  not  too 
large;  soak  for  ten  minutes  in  lukewarm  water,  then  well 
pow.der  with  rosin,  have  plenty  of  scalding  water  ready,  dip  in 
the  head,  holding  it  by  the  ear,  scrape  the  hair  off  with  the 
back  of  a  knife,  which  will  come  off  easily  if  properly  scraped, 
without  scratching  the  cheek ;  when  perfectly  clean,  take  the 
eyes  out,  saw  it  in  two  lengthwise  through  the  skull,  without 
spoiling  the  brain,  which  take  carefully  out,  and  put  to  dis- 
gorge for  a  few  hours  in  lukewarm  water ;  pull  the  tongue 
out,  break  the  jawbone,  and  remove  the  part  which  contains 
the  teeth,  put  the  head  into  plenty  of  water  to  disgorge  for  one 
hour ;  make  the  following  stock,  and  boil  for  about  two  hours 
and  a  half,  and  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 

The  stock  is  made  by  putting  into  a  braising-pan  two  carrots, 


REMOVES.  129 


three  onions,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  six  cloves,  a  bou- 
quet of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay -leaves,  set  it  on  the  fire  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  keep  stirring  it  round,  then  add  a  pint 
of  water,  and  when  warm  mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour, 
add  a  gallon  of  water,  one  lemon  in  slices,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  salt,  then  lay  the  head  in ;  take  care  it  is  well  cover- 
ed, or  the  part  exposed  will  turn  dark :  simmer  gently  till 
tender. 


LETTER  No.  XII. 

MY  DEAR  ELOISE, — Do  not  make  any  mistakes  in  the  way  you  de- 
scribe the  above  receipts,  which  might  be  made  very  ridiculous  if 
wrongly  explained.  For  example :  I  once  had  an  old  French  Cookery 
Book  in  my  hand,  which  had  the  15th  edition  stamped  on  its  old 
brown  leather  cheek,  in  which  a  receipt  of  "  Tcte  de  Veau  a  la  pou- 
lette,"  that  is,  a  calf's  head,  with  white  sauce,  in  which  small  onions 
and  mushrooms  are  introduced,  reads  as  follows — but,  before  describ- 
ing it,  allow  me  five  minutes  to  indulge  in  a  hearty  laugh  at  the  ab- 
surd manner  in  which  it  is  explained:  it  reads  thus:  "First  choose 
your  head  as  thick  and  fat  as  you  can,  then  plunge  it  in  two  gal- 
lons of  water,  wliich  must  be  nearly  boiling  in  a  pan  on  the  fire ; 
let  your  head  remain  about  ten  minutes,  then  take  it  out  by  the  ears, 
and,  after  remaining  a  short  time,  scrape  your  hair  off  with  the  back 
of  a  knife  without  injuring  your  cheek,  and  pull  your  eyes  out ; 
break  your  jawbone  and  saw  your  head  in  two  without  smashing 
your  brains,  which  take  out  carefully ;  set  it  in  cold  water,  to  get 
clean  and  white ;  then  pull  out  your  tongue,  scrape  and  dry  it,  hav- 
ing previously  boiled  it  with  your  head,  wliich,  after  two  hours' 
ebullition,  will  feel  as  soft  as  possible,  when  see  that  your  head  is 
in  the  centre  of  the  dish ;  your  tongue  divided  in  two  and  placed 
on  each  side  of  it :  sharp  sauce,  according  to  No. —  is  allowed  to  be 
served  with  either  head  or  tongue."  I  assure  you,  dear,  although  I 
do  not  profess  to  be  a  first-rate  scholar  in  that  fashionable  language 
— French,  that  I  believe  this  to  be  as  near  as  possible  the  true  trans- 
lation of  the  original.  Then  follows  calves'  feet,  which  is  nearly  as 
absurd  as  the  former :  "  Pied  de  Veau  au  naturel,"  Calves  Feet,  the 
natural  way. — "Choose  your  fine  feet  in  the  rough  state,  and,  as 
with  your  head,  place  a  pan  of  water  on  the  fire ;  when  hot,  but 
not  too  much  so,  put  your  feet  in  the  water  for  about  ten  minutes, 
try  if  you  can  easily  clean  them  as  your  head  with  a  knife,  if  not, 
add  a  spoonful  of  salt  in  the  water,  and  let  them  remain  a  few  min- 
utes longer;  then  scrape  like  your  head;  when  well  cleaned  wipe 
them  dry,  and  they  are  ready  for  dressing,  which  may  be  done  in 
almost  twenty  different  ways.  (See  the  series  'How  to  cook  Pigs' 
Feet.')  When  your  feet  are  tender,  set  them  on  a  dish,  take  out  the 
big  bone,  surround  them  with  sausage-meat;  wrap  them  up  in  caul, 

6* 


130  REMOVES. 

and  form  a  heart  with  them ;  then  place  your  feet  on  a  gridiron,  let 
them  gently  broil,  and,  when  done,  eat  them  for  breakfast  or  luncheon." 
(After  which  a  gentle  walk  might  give  you  an  appetite  for  dinner.) 

Calfs  Head  (No.  313)  may  be  dressed  thus  :— Half  of  the 
head  will  make  a  good  dish  for  a  remove ;  lay  it  in  the  dish 
very  hot,  having  previously  drained  it  well ;  have  ready  about 
a  pint  of  Hollandaise  or  cream  sauce,  No.  280,  pour  it  over 
and  serve. 

It  may  be  surrounded  with  a  dozen  new  potatoes,  if  in 
season,  or  some  quenelles,  or  quarters  of  hard-boiled  eggs ;  a 
little  chopped  parsley  thrown  on  the  head  when  the  sauce  is 
over  it,  makes  it  look  very  inviting.  It  can  also  be  served 
"  a  la  poulette,"  by  putting  a  pint  of  white  sauce  in  a  stew- 
pan  ;  you  have  peeled  and  cooked  about  fifty  button  onions  in 
white  broth,  to  which  you  have  added  a  little  sugar  and  butter, 
and  a  few  mushrooms ;  add  the  broth,  onions,  and  sauce  to- 
gether, and  when  on  the  point  of  boiling,  add  a  liaison  of  two 
yolks  of  eggs  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  stir  it  well  round ;  it 
ought  to  be  the  thickness  of  cream  sauce ;  pour  over  the  head 
and  serve. 

It  can  also  be  egged  and  bread-crumbed,  and  placed  in  the 
cream  for  twenty  minutes  to  get  a  nice  brown  color,  and  may 
be  served  with  sauces,  Nos.  150,  165. 


MUTTON". — The  sheep,  when  killed,  is  generally  divided  into  two, 
by  cutting  across  about  two  ribs  below  the  shoulder ;  these  are  called 
the  fore  and  hind-quarters  :  the  former  contains  the  head,  neck,  breast, 
and  shoulder ;  the  latter,  the  leg  and  loin ;  or  the  two  loins  together, 
the  saddle  or  chine ;  or  the  leg  and  four  ribs  of  the  loin,  the  haunch. 
The  entrails  are  called  the  pluck,  which  are  the  liver,  lights,  heart, 
sweetbread,  and  melt.  When  cut  up,  the  kernel  at  the  tail  should 
be  removed,  and  that  in  the  fat  in  the  thick  part  of  the  leg,  and 
the  pipe  that  runs  along  the  bone  of  the  chine.  The  flavor  depends 
on  the  breed  and  pasture ;  that  is  best  which  has  a  dark-colored  fle^h, 
of  a  fine  grain,  well-mixed  with  fat,  which  must  be  firm  and  white. 
Wether  mutton  is  the  best;  the  meat  of  ewe  mutton  is  of  a  paler 
color,  and  the  fat  yellow  and  spongy.  To  keep  a  loin,  saddle,  or 
haunch,  the  kidney-fat  should  be  removed,  and  the  place  rubbed  with 
a  little  salt.  Mutton  should  never  be  cooked  unless  it  has  hung  forty- 
eight  hours  after  it  is  killed ;  and  it  can  be  kept  for  twenty-one  days, 
and  sometimes  longer  in  a  severe  winter. 

314.  Haunch  of  Mutton. — Saw  or  break  three  inches  from 
the  knuckle-bone,  remove  all  skin  from  the  loin,  put  it  on  a 


REMOVES.  131 


spit,  commencing  at  the  knuckle,  and  bringing  it  out  at  the 
flap,  avoiding  the  fillet  of  the  loin ;  then  cover  it  with  three 
sheets  of  buttered  paper,  place  it  about  eighteen  inches  from 
the  fire,  if  a  large  one  it  will  take  two  hours  and  a  half;  half 
an  hour  before  being  done,  remove  the  paper,  baste  it  with  a 
little  butter,  and  dredge  it  slightly ;  when  done,  dish  it  up  with 
u  frill  round  the  knuckle,  and  pour  a  pint  of  hot  gravy  over. 
In  summer  time,  French  beans  should  be  served  with  it,  but 
always  mashed  potatoes. 

315.  Saddle  of  Mutton. — The  same  rule  in  regard  to  choice 
appiles  to  this  as  to  the  haunch.  Take  off  the  skin,  run  a  lark- 
spit  through  the  spinal  marrow-bone,  which  affix  to  a  larger 
one  with  a  holdfast  at  one  end  and  string  at  the  other ;  then 
tie  the  skin  over  the  back,  and  place  it  down  to  roast ;  it  will 
not  take  so  long  a  time  to  roast  in  proportion  as  another  joint, 
one  about  ten  pounds  will  take  about  one  hour  and  twenty 
minutes ;  remove  the  paper  ten  minutes  before  taking  it  from 
the  fire,  dredge  to  give  it  a  nice  color,  and  make  gravy  as  for 
beef,  No.  287,  or  serve  with  gravy,  No.  17Y. 


316.  Saddle  of  Mutton,  a  la  Polonaise. — This  is  my  economi- 
cal dish,  par  excellence,  and  very  much  it  is  liked  every  time  I 
use  it.  Take  the  remains  of  a  saddle  of  mutton,  of  the  previ- 
ous day,  cut  out  all  the  meat  close  to  the  bone,  leaving  about 
one  inch  wide  on  the  outside,  cut  it  with  a  portion  of  the  fat 
into  small  dice ;  then  put  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  a 
stewpan,  with  a  little  butter ;  fry  one  minute,  add  the  meat, 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  season  rather  high  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg;  stir  round,  and  moisten 
with  a  gill  or  a  little  more  of  broth,  add  a  bay-leaf,  put  it 
on  the  stove  for  ten  minutes,  add  two  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  till 
rather  thick,  make  about  two  pounds  of  mashed  potatoes 
firm  enough  to  roll,  put  the  saddle-bone  in  the  middle  of 
the  dish,  and  with  the  potatoes  form  an  edging  round  the 
saddle,  so  as  to  give  the  shape  of  one,  leaving  the  middle 
empty,  fill  it  with  your  mince  meat,  which  ought  to  be  enough 
to  do  so;  if  you  should  not  have  enough  with  the  remains 
of  the  saddle,  the  remains  of  any  other  joint  of  mutton  may 
be  used;  egg  all  over,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  around,  put  in 


132  REMOVES. 


rather  a  hot  oven,  to  get  a  nice  yellow  color,  poach  six  eggs, 
and  place  on  the  top,  and  serve  brown  gravy  round ;  white 
or  brown  sauce,  if  handy,  is  an  improvement.  You  may 
easily  fancy  the  economy  of  this  well-looking  and  good  dish ; 
the  remains  of  a  leg,  shoulder,  loin,  neck  of  mutton  and 
lamb  may  be  dressed  the  same  way,  keeping  their  shape  of 
course. 


31*7.  Roast  Leg  of  Mutton. — Choose  the  same  as  the 
haunch.  One  about  eight  pounds  weight  will  take  about 
one  hour  and  a  half  to  roast :  run  the  spit  in  at  the  knuckle, 
and  bring  it  out  at  the  thigh-bone;  roast  it  some  little  dis- 
tance from  the  fire  at  first,  bringing  it  nearer  as  it  gets  done ; 
baste  it  with  a  little  butter  whilst  roasting,  or  cover  it  with  a 
sheet  of  well-buttered  paper,  which  remove  just  before  it  is 
quite  cooked.  The  leg  of  doe  mutton  is  the  best  for  roast-, 
ing ;  should  it  be  ewe,  and  intended  for  roasting,  I  proceed 
thus  two  or  three  days  before  I  want  it.  I  make  a  small 
incision  close  to  the  knuckle,  pushing  a  wooden  skewer  close 
down  to  the  leg-bone  as  far  as  it  will  go ;  I  then  take  one 
tablespoonful  of  port  wine,  if  none  handy  I  use  catsup,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  either  treacle,  apple  or  currant  jelly,  and 
mix  them  together;  I  then  remove  the  skewer,  and  run  the 
mixture  in  it,  closing  the  hole  with  two  cloves  of  garlic. 
This  joint  I  prefer  to  dangle,  rather  than  put  on  the  spit. 


318.  Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton. — This  I  prefer  of  the  South- 
down breed,  and  ewe  is  equally  as  good  as  doe.  Cut  the 
end  of  the  knuckle  from  the  leg,  put  it  into  an  oval  pan, 
in  which  there  is  sufficient  water  to  cover  it,  throw  in  about 
one  ounce  of  salt,  place  it  upon  a  sharp  fire  until  it  is  on  the 
point  of  boiling,  then  remove  to  the  side,  and  in  five  min- 
utes remove  the  scum,  and  then  let  it  simmer  gently ;  if  the 
turnips  are  to  be  boiled  with  it,  peel  and  slice  them,  and  put 
them  into  the  pan  half  an  hour  before  the  mutton  is  done ; 
it  must  be  again  put  on  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  as  the 
turnips  have  stopped  the  boiling ;  dress  it  upon  a  dish  with 
the  turnips  round  it,  or  mash  separate,  and  with  caper  or 
gherkin  sauce  :  the  broth  may  be  reduced  for  soup. 


REMOVES.  133 


319.  Leg  of  Mutton  d  la  Bretonne. — Choose  one  about  six 
pounds  weight,  peel  four  cloves  of  garlic,  make  an  incision  with 
the  point  of  a  knife  in  four  different  parts  around  the  knuckle, 
and  place  the  garlic  in  it,  hang  it  up  for  a  day  or  two,  and  then 
roast  it  for  one  hour  and  a  half.     At  the  same  time  you  have 
procured  a  quart  of  small  dry  French  haricots,  which  after  well 
washing  put  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  gallon  of  water,  add 
about  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  the  same  of  butter,  set  them  on  the 
side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  for  about  three  hours  or  till  tender, 
when  pour  the  liquor  off  into  a  basin,  and  keep  the  haricots 
hot ;  peel  and  cut  two  large  onions  into  thin  slices,  put  some 
of  the  fe,t  of  the  dripping-pan  into  a  frying-pan,  put  in  the 
onions,  and  fiy  a  light  brown,  add  them  to  the  haricots  with 
the  fat  and  gravy  the  mutton  has  produced  in  roasting,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  toss  them  a  little,  and  serve  very  hot  on 
a  large  dish,  put  the  leg  on  it,  with  a  frill  of  paper  on  the 
knuckle.     In  case  the  leg  is  very  fat  do  not  add  all  of  it  to  the 
haricots.     This  if  well  carved  is  an  excellent  dish  for  eight  or 
nine  persons ;  it  is  a  dish  very  much  esteemed  in  France,  and 
is  considered  cheap  food  from  the  nourishment  afforded  by  the 
haricots,  which  can  be  purchased  at  sixpence  per  quart. 

Shoulder  and  loin  may  be  dressed  in  the  same  way. 

320.  Shoulder  of  Mutton  is  best  if  well  hung;  the  spit 
should  be  run  in  at  the  flap  and  brought  out  at  the  knuckle ; 
this  should  not  be  basted  in  roasting,  but  merely  rubbed  with 
a  little  butter;  it  is  served  occasionally  with  sauces,  No.  158. 
This  is  sometimes  boiled  with  onion  sauce ;  or,  as  it  is  called, 
smothered  in  onions.     It  is  also  good  by  having  the  bone  ex- 
tracted, and  its  place  filled  with  veal  stuffing,  and  then  put  it 
on  a  trivet,  in  a  baking-dish,  with  sliced  potatoes  under,  and 
baked  more  or  less  in  proportion  to  its  size ;  one  of  six  pounds 
will  take  one  hour  and  a  half — or  as  follows : 

Put  a  small  shoulder  of  mutton  in  a  deep  saute-pan  or  bak- 
ing-dish, season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  cover  over  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  then  put  in  ten  potatoes  peeled  and 
quartered,  and  the  same  quantity  of  apples,  with  half  a  pint  of 
water,  place  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  two  hours,  dress 
upon  your  dish,  with  the  potatoes  an$  apples  round,  skim  all 
the  fat  from  the  gravy,  which  pour  over  and  serve ;  it  requires 
a  little  oil  or  butter  over  before  baking. 


134  REMOVES. 


321.  Shoulder  of  Mu  tton,  Provincial  Fashion. — Roast  a  fine 
shoulder  of  mutton  ;  whilst  roasting  mince  ten  large  onions  very- 
fine,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salad- 
oil,  pass  them  ten  minutes  over  a  good  fire,  keeping  it  stirred, 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  well  in,  and  a  pint  of  milk, 
season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  when  the  onions 
are  quite  tender  and  the  sauce  rather  thick,  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  and  take  it  off  the  fire ;  when  the  shoulder  is  done, 
spread  the  onions  over  the  top,  egg  over,  cover  with  bread- 
crumbs, put  in  the  oven  ten  minutes,  and  salamander  a  light 
brown  color,  dress  upon  your  dish,  put  the  gravy  from  it  in 
your  stewpan,  with  a  pat  of  butter,  with  which  you  have  mixed 
a  little  flour,  boil  up,  add  a  little  scraped  garlic,  pour  round  the 
shoulder,  which  serve.     The  shoulder  may  also  be  dressed  in 
the  housewife's  method,  as  directed  for  the  leg.     A  little  brown- 
ing may  be  added. 

322.  Loin  of  Mutton. — Take  off  the  skin,  separate  the  joints 
with  a  chopper ;  if  a  large  size,  cut  the  chine-bone  with  a  saw, 
so  as  to  allow  it  to  be  carved  in  smaller  pieces,  run  a  lark-spit 
from  one  extremity  to  the  other,  and  affix  it  to  a  larger  spit, 
and  roast  it  like  the  haunch.     A  loin  weighing  six  pounds  will 
take  one  hour  to  roast. 

323.  Leg  of  Mutton  stewed  with  Vegetables. — Have  a  good 
leg,  beat  it  a  little  with  a  rolling-pin,  make  an  incision  in  the 
knuckle,  in  which  put  two  cloves  of  garlic,  then  put  it  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  cut  in  eight  pieces,  set 
over  a  moderate  fire  half  an  hour,  moving  it  now  and  then 
until  becoming  a  light  brown  color,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  add  twenty  pieces  of  carrots  of  the  same  size  as  the  bacon, 
fifteen  middling-sized  onions,  and  when   done  add  two  bay- 
leaves,  two  cloves,  and  two  quarts  of  water,  replace  it  upon  a 
moderate  fire,  moving  round  occasionally,  stew  nearly  three 
hours,  dress  upon  your  dish  with  the  carrots  and  onions  dressed 
tastefully  around,  take  off  as  much  of  the  fat  from  the  gravy  as 
possible,  take  out  the  bay-leaves  and  pour  the  garniture  round 
the  mutton,  which  serve  very  hot.     It  can  be  braised  like  No. 
289.     A  few  drops  of  browning  may  be  required. 

324.  Neck  of  Mutton. — This  is  a  very  recherche  dish,  if  off 


REMOVES.  135 


a  good-sized  sheep,  and  well  hung ;  it  must  be  nicely  trimmed, 
sawing  the  bones  at  the  tips  of  the  ribs,  which  detach  from  the 
meat,  folding  the  flap  over ;  saw  off  the  chine-bone,  and  carefully 
detach  the  remainder  of  the  bone  from  the  fillet ;  detach  the 
skin  from  the  upper  part,  fix  the  flap  under  with  a  couple  of 
skewers,  run  a  flat  lark-spit  from  end  to  end,  fix  it  to  a  larger 
one,  cover  it  with  buttered  paper,  and  roast  like  the  haunch ;  if 
of  five  pounds,  nearly  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  one  hour. 
It  should  be  served  very  hot,  the  plates  and  dish  the  same,  and 
not  one  minute  before  it  is  wanted :  serve  gravy  under. 


325.  Boiled  Neck  of  Mutton. — Take  one  with  little  fat  upon 
it,  divide  the  chops,  taking  care  not  to  cut  the  fillet,  put  it  into 
a  pan  with  cold  water  sufficient  to  cover  it,  place  in  it  one  ounce 
of  salt,  one  onion,  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  boil  it  gently ; 
when  done,  dish  it  up,  and  serve  it  with  either  parsley  and  but- 
ter made  from  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled,  caper  or  onion 
sauce,  mashed  turnips  separate.     Proceed  as  under  receipt  with 
the  broth. 

326.  Sheep's  Head. — Though  this  may  be  seen  in  every  part 
of  London  inhabited  by  the  working  classes,  and  may  be  pro- 
cured ready-cooked,  I  prefer  always  to  prepare  it  at  home,  and 
very  good  it  is.     I  choose  a  fine  one,  as  fat  as  possible,  and  put 
it  into  a  gallon  of  water  to  disgorge  for  two  hours ;  wash  it  well, 
saw  it  in  two  from  the  top,  take  out  the  brain,  cut  away  part 
of  the  uncovered  part  of  the  skull,  and  also  the  ends  of  the  jaws, 
wash  it  well,  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  with  two  onions,  one  carrot, 
two  turnips  cut  in  slices,  a  little  celery,  four  cloves,  a  bouquet 
of  four  sprigs  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  one  ounce  of  salt,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  three  quarts  of  water,  set  on  the  fire ; 
when  near  boiling,  add  half  a  teacupful  of  pearl  or  Scotch  barley ; 
let  it  simmer  for  three  hours,  or  till  tender,  which  try  with  a 
fork ;  take  out  vegetables,  cut  in  dice,  remove  bouquet,  skim 
off  the  fat,  and  pour  all  into  tureen.     Or,  lay  the  head  on  a 
dish,  and  serve  with  either  onion  sauce  over,  parsley  and  butter, 
or  any  sharp  sauce ;  or  egg  and  bread-crumb  it  over,  put  it  in 
an  oven  for  half  an  hour  till  getting  a  nice  yellow  color,  and 
serve  with  sharp  sauce  under.     Or,  with  the  brain,  thus  :  having 
boiled  it  for  ten  minutes  in  a  little  vinegar,  salt,  and  water,  cut 


136  REMOVES. 


it  in  pieces,  warm  it  in  parsley  and  butter,  season  it  a  little,  and 
put  it  under  the  head  and  serve. 


327.  Sheep's  Head  and  Liver. — Boil  half  a  sheep's  liver  for 
thirty  minutes  in  a  quart  of  water,  cut  it  into  small  dice,  put 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  the  stewpan,  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  then 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions,  cook  it  a  few  minutes, 
add  the  liver,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  a  spoon- 
ful of  flour,  half-pint  of  broth,  stir  when  boiling,  simmer  for  a 
few  minutes,  lay  on  dish,  and  put  the  head  over  just  as  it  is 
out  of  the  broth,  or  bread-crumb  it,  and  put  it  in  the  oven. 


LAMB. — The  same  rules  for  cutting  up  should  be  observed  as  in  the 
sheep.  The  fore-quarter  consists  of  a  shoulder,  neck,  and  breast  to- 
gether ;  if  cut  up,  the  shoulder  and  ribs.  The  hind-quarter  is  the  leg  and 
loin.  The  head  and  pluck  consist  of  the  liver,  lights,  heart,  nut  and 
melt,  as  also  the  fry,  which  is  the  sweetbread,  bits  and  skirts,  and  part 
of  the  liver.  The  fore-quarter  should  be  fresh,  the  hind-quarter  should 
hang,  it  should  be  of  a  pale  color  and  fat.  The  vein  in  the  fore-quar- 
ter ought  to  be  bluish  and  firm ;  if  yellow  or  green,  it  is  very  stale. 
To  ascertain  if  the  hind-quarter  is  fresh,  pass  your  finger  under  the 
kidney,  and  if  there  is  a  faint  smell  it  is  not  fresh.  If  there  is  but  little 
flesh  on  the  shoulder  it  is  not  fine  lamb  ;  those  that  have  short  wool  I 
have  found  to  be  the  best  flavored.  Nothing  differs  so  much  in  flavor 
and  goodness  as  this :  much  depends  upon  the  kind  of  pasture  on  which 
the  ewe  is  fed  ;  that  which  is  obtained  when  it  is  the  dearest  has  but 
little  flavor,  and  requires  the  addition  of  lemon  and  cayenne  to  make 
it  palatable. 


328.  Neck  of  Lamb  a  la  Jardiniere. — Plain  roast  the  neck, 
as  you  would  that  of  mutton ;  dish  it  up  with  sauce,  and, 
whilst  it  is  roasting,  cut  one  middling-sized  carrot  in  small 
dice,  the  same  quantity  of  turnip,  and  thirty  button  onions ; 
wash  all  in  cold  water,  put  them  in  a  small  stewpan,  with  one 
ounce  of  butter  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  place  on  the 
fire  till  no  liquid  remains  in  the  stewpan ;  add  to  it  a  gill  of 
brown  sauce,  half  a  one  of  broth,  add  a  small  bouquet  of  pars- 
ley and  bay-leaf;  after  once  boiling,  set  it  to  simmer  on  the 
corner  of  the  stove,  skim  off  all  the  fat ;  when  ready,  taste  if 
very  palatable ;  it  must  be  a  nice  brown  color,  and  the  sauce 
lightly  adhere  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  serve  on  the  dish, 


REMOVES.  13  Y 


place  the  neck  over :  white  Sauce  may  be  used  instead  of  brown, 
only  add  a  spoonful  of  liaison  when  ready  to  serve.  This  sauce 
is  equally  good  with  almost  any  kind  of  meat,  game,  and 
poultry :  it  will  often  be  referred  to,  therefore  be  particular  in 
making  it ;  you  can  shape  the  vegetables  in  twenty  different 
ways,  by  using  either  green  peas,  French  beans,  Brussels  sprouts  ; 
sprey-grass  may  be  added,  when  in  season,  but  should  be 
boiled  separately,  and  added  just  previous  to  serving.  Should 
you  have  no  sauce-water  cold,  a  little  glaze  may  be  used ;  or, 
fof  white  sauce,  use  water  and  milk. 

329.  Saddle  of  Lamb,  Russian  fashion. — Roast  a  small 
saddle  of  lamb,  keeping  it  pale ;  having  had  it  covered  with 
paper,  take  ten  good-sized  boiled  potatoes,  mash  them  with 
about  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto 
of  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg ;  mix  all  well  together  with  a  fork,  adding  half  a  gill 
of  milk  and  one  egg ;  when  cold,  roll  them  into  a  long  shape 
the  size  of  plover's  eggs,  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice,  and  fry 
light  colored ;  dress  the  saddle,  surround  it  with  the  potatoes, 
make  a  sauce  of  melted  butter  and  maitre  d'hdtel  butter,  No. 
285,  put  in  it,  and  pour  it  round,  and  serve.  All  joints  of  lamb 
can  be  dressed  thus. 


330.  Leg  or  Shoulder  of  Lamb  with  Peas. — These  must 
be  plain  roasted ;  when  done,  serve  with  peas  in  the  bottom  of 
the  dish,  prepared  as  No.  169. 


331.  Leg  or  Shoulder   with   French  Beans. — Plain   roast 
as  before ;  prepare  beans  as  directed.     (See  Vegetables.) 


332.  Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb  with  Spinach. — Procure  a  very 
small  leg,  and  cut  the  end  of  the  knuckle-bone,  tie  it  up  in  a 
cloth  and  place  it  in  cold  water,  with  two  ounces  of  salt  in  it, 
boil  it  gently  according  to  size ;  when  done,  remove  the  cloth, 
and  dish  it  up  with  spinach  under  it,  prepared  as  directed. 
(See  Vegetables.) 

333.  Shoulder   of  Lamb   braised. — Take  the  blade  bone 


138  REMOVES. 


from  a  shoulder  of  lamb,  and  have  ready  ten  long  strips  of  fat 
bacon,  which  season  rather  highly,  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  place  the  pieces,  one  after  the 
other,  in  your  larding  pin,  which  draw  quickly  through  the 
fleshy  part  of  the  shoulder,  leaving  the  bacon  in  the  meat ; 
after  having  used  all  the  bacon,  roll  the  meat  round,  and  tie  it 
up  with  a  piece  of  string ;  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan  contain- 
ing a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  it 
occasionally  until  of  a  light  golden  color,  when  pour  in  a  qua,rt 
of  water  or  broth,  and  add  forty  button  onions,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley;  let  simmer  very  slowly  until  the  onions  are  quite 
tender,  when  take  up  the  meat,  pull  off  the  string,  and  dress  it 
upon  a  dish  with  the  onions  round ;  take  the  parsley  out  of 
the  liquor,  from  which  carefully  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  reduce 
it  until  forming  a  thinnish  glaze,  when  pour  it  over  the  meat 
and  serve.  Mushrooms  may  be  added  ten  minutes  before  send- 
ing to  table. 

334.  Breast  of  Lamb  broiled. — Saw  off  the  breast  from  a 
rib  of  lamb,  leaving  the  neck  of  sufficient  size  to  roast  or  for 
cutlets ;  then  put  two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  and  the  same  of 
turnip,  cut  into  thin  slices,  in  a  stewpan  with  two  bay-leaves,  a 
few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  thyme,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  three 
pints  of  water,  lay  in  the  breast,  which  let  simmer  until  tender, 
and  the  bones  leave  with  facility,  when  take  it  from  the  stew- 
pan, pull  out  all  the  bones,  and  press  it  between  two  dishes ; 
when  cold,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb it  lightly  over,  and  broil  gently  (over  a  moderate  fire)  of 
a  nice  yellowish  color,  turning  it  very  carefully ;  when  sufficiently 
browned  upon  one  side,  serve  with  plain  gravy  in  the  dish  and 
mint  sauce  separately,  or  with  stewed  peas  or  any  other  vege- 
table sauce ;  tomato  sauce  is  likewise  very  good  served  with  it. 


335.  Lamb's  Head. — See  Sheep's  Head  (No.  324).     This 
will  take  half  the  time  to  cook. 


336.  Lamb's  Fry. — Take  about  a  pound  and  boil  for  ten 
minutes  in  half  a  gallon  of  water,  take  it  out  and  dry  on  a  cloth  ; 
have  some  fresh  crumbs,  mix  with  them  half  a  spoonful  of 


REMOVES.  139 


chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper ;  egg  the  fry  lightly  with  a  paste- 
brush,  dip  it  in  the  crumbs,  fry  for  five  minutes,  serve  very  hot 
on  a  clean  napkin  in  a  dish,  with  fried  parsley  over. 


337.  Lamb's  Head  with  Hollandaise. — If  you  want  it  very 
white,  make  stock  as  for  sheep's  feet,  put  it  to  stew  when  done, 
lay  on  dish  with  about  twelve  new  potatoes  (boiled)  round  it, 
pour  over  some  cream  sauce  (No.  280),  and  serve. 

338.  LamUs  Head,    with   Brain  or    Liver. — Blanch   the 
brain  or  liver,  and  mince  them  as  for  sheep's  head,  introducing 
only  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  mix  with  a  little  milk,  stir  in  quick, 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  lay  it  on  the  dish  with  the  head  over,  and  serve. 


PORK. — The  flesh  of  no  other  animal  depends  so  much  upon  feeding 
as  that  of  pork.  The  greatest  care  ought  to  be  observed  in  feeding 
it,  at  least  twenty-one  days  previous  to  its  being  killed ;  it  should  fast 
for  twenty-four  hours  before.  No  animal  is  more  used  for  nourishment, 
and  none  more  indispensable  in  the  kitchen ;  employed  either  fresh  or 
salt,  all  is  useful,  even  to  its  bristles  and  its  blood;  it  is  the  super- 
fluous riches  of  the  farmer,  and  helps  to  pay  the  rent  of  the  cotta- 
ger. It  is  cut  up  the  same  as  the  ox  The  fore-quarter  is  the  fore- 
loin  and  spring;  if  it  is  a  large  pig,  the  sparerib  may  be  cut  off. 
The  hind-quarter  is  the  leg  and  loin.  There  is  also  the  head  and 
haslet  (which  Is  the  liver,  kidney,  craw,  and  skirts),  and  also  chitter- 
lings, which  are  cleansed  for  sausages  and  black  puddings.  For  boil- 
ing or  roasting  it  should  never  be  older  than  six  months,  and  the  leg 
must  not  weigh  more  than  from  six  to  seven  pounds.  The  short- 
legged,  tliick-necked,  and  small-headed  pigs  are  the  best  breed,  a  cross 
from  the  Chinese.  If  fresh  and  young,  the  flesh  and  fat  should  be 
white  and  firm,  smooth  and  dry,  and  the  lean  break  if  pinched  between 
the  fingers,  or  you  can  nip  the  skin  with  the  nails;  the  contrary  if 
old  and  stale. 

339.  Leg  of  Pork. — Choose  the  pork  as  described  at  the 
commencement  of  this  series,  if  a  leg,  one  weighing  about 
seven  pounds ;  cut  an  incision  in  the  knuckle  near  the  thigh, 
into  which  put  a  quantity  of  sage  and  onions,  previously 
passed  in  butter,  sew  ihe  incision  up  with  pack-thread,  score 
the  rind  of  the  pork  in  lines  across,  half  an  inch  apart,  place 
upon  a  spit,  running  it  in  just  under  the  rind,  and  bringing 


140  REMOVES. 


it  out  at  the  knuckle.  If  stuffed  the  day  previous  to  roast- 
ing, it  would  improve  its  flavor;  roast  (if  weighing  seven 
pounds)  about  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  serve  with  apple 
sauce  in  a  boat. 


34(7.   Chine  of  Park.— Score   it  well,  stuff  it  thick  with 
pork  stuffing,  roast  it  gently,  and  serve  with  apple  sauce. 


341.  Sparerib  of  Pork. — When  spitted,  rub  some  flour 
over  the  rind,  roast  it  before  a  clear  fire,  not  too  strong,  or 
cover  it  with  paper;  about  ten  minutes  before  taking  it  up, 
throw  some  powdered  sage  over  it,  and  froth  it  up  with  some 
butter  in  a  spoon,  and  serve  with  gravy  under. 


342.  Loin  or  Neck  of  Pork  a  la  Piemontaise. — The  neck 
or  loin  must  be  plain  roasted;  you  have  peeled  and  cut  four 
onions  in  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  stir  over  the  fire  until  rather  brown,  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  add  a  good  pint  of  broth,  if  any, 
or  water,  with  an  ounce  of  glaze,  boil  ten  minutes,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  French  mustard,  with  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
and  sugar,  pour  the  sauce  upon  the  dish,  and  dress  your 
joint  upon  it ;  serve  with  a  little  apple  sauce  separate  in  a 
boat. 


343.  Loin  or  Neck  of  Pork,  Normandy  fashion. — Pro- 
cure a  neck  or  loin,  put  it  in  a  common  earthen  dish,  having 
previously  scored  the  rind,  rub  over  with  a  little  oil,  place 
about  twenty  potatoes,  cut  in  halves  or  in  quarters,  in  the 
dish  with  the  pork,  ten  onions  peeled,  and  twenty  apples, 
peeled  and  quartered,  place  in  a  warm  oven  for  an  hour  and 
a  half  or  more,  then  dress  it  upon  your  dish  with  the  apples, 
onions,  and  potatoes  around,  and  serve. 


344.  Bacon  and  Ham. — Bacon-pigs  are  cut  up  differently 
for  hams,  bacon,  &c.,  but  a  poleaxe  should  never  be  used  for 
killing  them,  as  it  spoils  the  head.  To  be  good,  the  fat  must 


REMOVES.  141 


be  firm,  with  a  slight  red  tinge,  the  lean  a  dark  red,  and 
stick  close  to  the  bone;  the  rind  thin,  if  young;  if  old 
(should  it  be  well  fed  it  is  sometimes  better),  it  will  be  thick. 
For  hams,  choose  one  short  in  the  hock;  run  the  knife  close 
under  the  bone,  when  it  comes  out,  if  not  smeared  and  has 
a  pleasant  smell,  it  is  good. 

345.  Ham. — This  useful  and  popular  dish,  which  is  equally 
a  favorite  in  the  palace  and  the  cottage,  may  be  dressed  in 
upwards  of  fifty  different  ways,  with  as  many  different  dishes, 
which  are  described  in  their  place.  They  should  be  well 
soaked  in  wrater,  and  boiled  gently  for  three  or  four  hours. 
If  to  serve  hot,  take  the  skin  off",  except  from  the  knuckle, 
which  cut  to  fancy ;  trim  the  fat  to  a  nice  appearance,  glaze 
and  serve,  or  throw  over  some  sifted  raspings  of  bread 
mixed  with  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Serve  where  recom- 
mended. 


346.  Bacon. — A  piece  of  good  streaky  bacon,  not  too  salt, 
should  be  put  into  cold  water  and  boiled  for  one  hour  and 
a  half,  and  served  with  broad  beans,  when  in  season,  round 
it,  or  any  young  peas. 


347.  Sucking  Pig  is  merely  plain  roasted,  stuffed  with 
veal  stuffing,  but  before  putting  it  upon  the  spit  it  requires 
to  be  floured  and  rubbed  very  dry,  otherwise  the  skin  would 
not  eat  crisp;  the  usual  method  of  serving  it  is  to  cut 
off  the  head,  and  divide  the  body  and  head  of  the  pig  in 
halves  lengthwise ;  pour  over  some  sauce  made  of  the  brains 
and  a  little  brown  sauce,  or  of  white  melted  butter,  nicely 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar ;  serve  apple  sauce  sep- 
arate in  a  boat,  if  approved  of. 


348.  Hind  Quarter  of  Sucking  Pig  (Yorkshire  fashion). 
— Cut  off  the  skin,  cover  with  paper,  and  roast  before  a 
quick  fire  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour;  ten  minutes  be- 
fore being  ready,  remove  the  paper  and  baste  it;  serve  with 
gravy  under,  and  mint  sauce  and  salad. 


142  REMOVES. 


349.  Salt  Pork. — Pork  is  salted  in  the  same  manner  as  de- 
scribed for  beef,  omitting  the  sal-prunella,  but  of  course  not 
requiring  so  long  a  time ;  a  leg  weighing  seven  pounds  would 
be  well  salted  in  a  week,  as  also  would  a  hand  and  spring 
weighing  about  ten  pounds,  and  either  would  require  two 
hours  boiling,  putting  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  cold  water, 
and  serving  with  carrots  and  greens  and  pease  pudding. 


350.  Pig's  Cheek  (a  new  method). — Procure  a  pig's  cheek 
nicely  pickled,  boil  well  until  it  feels  very  tender,  tie  half  a  pint 
of  split  peas  in  a  cloth,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling 
water,  boil  about  half  an  hour,  take  them  out,  pass  through  a 
hair  sieve,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  four  eggs,  stir  them  over  the  fire 
until  the  eggs  are  partially  set,  then  spread  it  over  the  pig's 
cheek,  egg  with  a  paste-brush,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over, 
place  in  the  oven  ten  minutes,  brown  it  with  the  salamander, 
and  serve. 

351.  Pickled  Pork  (Belly  part). — Choose   a  nice  streaky 
piece  of  about  four  pounds,  it  will  take  about  three  quarters  of 
an  hour  boiling ;  serve,  garnish  with  greens  round  it. 


352.  Hand  of  Pork. — Choose  one  not  too  salt ;  boil  it  for 
one  hour.     Serve  as  above. 


VENISON  is  cut  up  the  same  as  mutton,  with  the  exception  of  the  sad- 
dle, which  is  seldom  or  never  cut ;  the  flesh  should  be  dark,  fine-grained 
and  firm,  and  a  good  coating  of  fat  on  the  back.  It  should  be  well  hung 
and  kept  in  a  dry,  cold  place.  By  running  a  skewer  in  along  the  bone, 
you  will  know  when  it  is  fit  for  eating ;  examine  it  carefully  every  morn- 
ing to  cut  out  any  fly-blows. 

353.  Haunch  of  Venison. — A  good  haunch  of  venison,  weigh- 
ing from  about  twenty  to  twenty-five  pounds,  will  take  from  three 
to  four  hours  roasting  before  a  good  solid  fire ;  trim  the  haunch 
by  cutting  off  part  of  the  knuckle  and  sawing  off  the  chine-bone  ; 
fold  the  flap  over,  then  envelop  it  in  a  flour  and  water  paste 
rather  stiff,  and  an  inch  thick,  tie  it  up  in  strong  paper,  four 
sheets  in  thickness,  place  it  in  your  cradle  spit  so  that  it  will 


POULTRY.  143 


turn  quite  even,  place  it  at  first  very  close  to  the  fire  until  the 
paste  is  well  crusted,  pouring  a  few  ladlefuls  of  hot  dripping 
over  occasionally  to  prevent  the  paper  catching  fire,  then  put  it 
rather  further  from  the  fire,  which  must  be  quite  clear,  solid, 
and  have  sufficient  frontage  to  throw  the  same  heat  on  every 
part  of  the  venison ;  when  it  has  roasted  the  above  time  take 
it  up,  remove  it  from  the  paste  and  paper,  run  a  thin  skewer 
into  the  thickest  part  to  ascertain  if  done  ;  if  it  resists  the  skewer 
it  is  not  done,  and  must  be  tied  up  and  put  down  again,  but  if 
the  fire  is  good,  that  time  will  sufficiently  cook  it ;  glaze  the  top 
well,  salamander  until  a  little  brown,  put  a  frill  upon  the  knuckle, 
and  serve  very  hot,  with  strong  gravy,  and  plenty  of  French 
beans  separate. 

354.  Neck  of  Venison  should  be  cut  like  a  neck  of  mutton, 
taking  the  breast  off,  leaving  the  neck  about  nine  inches  wide ; 
detach  the  flesh  from  the  chine-bone,  and  saw  it  off,  leaving 
only  the  cutlet  bones,  then  pass  a  lark  spit  through  it,  cover  it 
with  paste  and  paper  the  same  as  the  haunch,  and  fix  on  spit, 
and  roast,  if  about  eight  pounds,  for  two  hours  before  a  good 
fire. 


POULTRY. 

THIS  is  the  best  and  most  delicious  of  the  various  matters  with  which 
man  furnishes  himself  as  food ;  although  containing  but  little  nourish- 
ment, it  gives  a  delightful  variety  to  our  repasts :  from  the  sparrow  to 
the  turkey,  we  find  everywhere,  in  this  numerous  class,  that  which  gives 
a  meal  equally  as  good  for  the  invalid  as  the  robust. 

Increasing  every  day  in  luxuries,  we  have  arrived  at  a  point  unknown 
even  to  Lucullus ;  we  are  not  contented  with  the  beautiful  qualities  which 
Nature  gives  this  species,  but,  under  pretence  of  improving  them,  we 
not  only  deprive  them  of  their  liberty  by  keeping  them  in  solitude  and 
in  darkness,  but  force  them  to  eat  their  food,  and  thus  bring  them  to  a 
degree  of  fatness  which  Nature  never  intended.  Even  the  bird  which 
saved  the  capitol  of  Rome  is  treated  with  still  greater  indignity, — thrust 
into  warm  ovens  and  nearly  baked  alive  to  produce  those  beautiful  and 
delicious  livers  so  well  known  to  gourmets.* 

The  best  way  of  killing  poultry  is  to  take  the  bird  by  the  neck,  plao 

*  Foie  gras  de  Strasbourg. 


144  POULTRY. 


ing  the  thumb  of  the  right  hand  just  at  the  back  of  the  head,  closing  the 
head  in  your  hand,  your  left  hand  holding  the  bird,  then  press  your  thumb 
down  hard  and  pull  the  head  and  neck  contrariwise ;  the  neck  will  break 
instantaneously,  and  the  bird  will  be  quite  dead  in  a  few  seconds,  then 
hang  it  a  short  time  by  the  legs  for  the  blood  to  flow  into  the  head,  Avhich 
renders  the  flesh  much  whiter.  In  France  they  are  usually  killed  by 
cutting  the  throat  close  to  the  head ;  both  methods  are  good  with  regard 
to  the  whiteness  of  the  flesh,  but  I  prefer  the  English  method,  not  being 
so  barbarous. 

To  pluck  either  game  or  poultry  have  the  bird  upon  a  board  with  its 
head  towards  you,  and  pull  the  feathers  away  from  you,  which  is  the 
direction  they  lie  in ;  many  persons  pull  out  the  feathers  in  a  contrary 
direction,  by  which  means  they  are  likely  to  tear  the  skin  to  pieces, 
wliich  would  very  much  disfigure  the  bird  for  the  table. 

To  draw  poultry  after  it  is  well  plucked,  cut  a  long  incision  at  the 
back  of  the  neck,  then  take  out  the  thin  skin  from  under  the  outer  with 
the  crop,  cut  the  neck  bone  oif  close  to  the  body  of  the  bird,  but  leave 
the  skin  a  good  length,  make  an  incision  under  the  tail  just  large  enough 
for  the  gizzard  to  pass  through,  no  larger ;  then  put  your  finger  into  the 
bird  at  the  breast  and  detach  all  the  intestines,  take  care  not  to  break 
the  gall-bladder,  squeeze  the  body  of  the  bird  and  force  out  the  whole 
from  the  incision  at  the  tail ;  it  is  then  ready  for  trussing,  the  method  of 
doing  which  will  be  given  in  the  various  Receipts  throughout  this  series. 
The  above  method  of  drawing  poultry  is  equally  applicable  to  game. 


TURKEY. — The  flesh  of  this  bird  depends  greatly  upon  its  feeding ; 
it  might  be  made  much  more  valuable  for  table  if  proper  attention  was 
paid  to  it.  A  young  one  should  have  his  legs  black  and  smooth  and 
spurs  short,  his"  eyes  look  fresh  and  feet  limber. 

It  is  singular  that  this  bird  should  take  its  name  from  a  country  in 
which  it  was  never  seen ;  in  other  countries  in  Europe  it  is  called  the 
Indian  cock,  because,  on  the  first  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus,  it 
was  supposed  to  be  part  of  the  continent  of  India,  and  thus  it  received 
the  name  of  the  West  Indies ;  and  this  bird,  being  brought  over  on  the 
first  voyage,  was  thus  named.  By  many  it  is  supposed  to  have  been 
brought  over  by  the  Jesuits  in  Spain  and  Portugal.  It  is  familiarly 
called  so.  It  is  also  probable  that  they  were  the  first  who  domesticated 
it.  I  have  seen  it  stated  that  it  was  known  to  the  Romans,  and  was 
served  at  the  marriage  of  Charlemagne.  From  my  researches  I  rather 
think  they  confound  it  with  the  pheasant.  It  has  more  flavor  than  any 
other  of  our  domestic  birds,  and  is,  consequently,  held  in  higher  estima- 
tion and  enjoys  a  higher  price.  Do  not  fear  these  long  receipts,  as  each 
one  contains  several. 


355.  Plain  Roasted  Turkey,  with  Sausages. — This  well- 
known  dish,  which  has  the  joyous  recollection  of  Christmas  at- 
tached to  it,  and  its  well-known  cognomen  of  '  an  alderman  in 
chains,'  brings  to  our  mind's  eye  the  famed,  hospitality  of  this 


POULTRY.  145 


mighty  city.  The  following  is  my  plan  of  cooking  it. — It  must 
be  first  trussed  as  follows :  Having  first  emptied  it,  break  the 
leg-bone  close  to  the  foot,  and  draw  out  the  sinews  from  the 
thigh ;  cut  off  the  neck  close  to  the  back,  leaving  the  skin  long ; 
wipe  the  inside  with  a  wet  cloth,  cut  the  breast-bone  through 
on  each  side  close  to  the  back,  and  draw  the  legs  close  up ;  fold 
a  cloth  up  several  times,  place  it  on  the  breast,  and  beat  it  down 
until  it  lies  flat ;  put  a  skewer  in  the  joint  of  the  wing,  and 
another  through  the  middle  of  the  leg  and  body,  one  through 
the  small  part  of  the  leg  and  body,  close  to  the  side-bones,  and 
another  through  the  extremity  of  the  two  legs.  The  liver  and 
gizzard  should  be  placed  between  the  pinions  of  the  wings,  and 
the  points  turned  on  the  back.  When  thus  trussed,  singe  all 
the  hair  off  that  may  remain,  take  about  one  pound  of  stuffing 
(see  Receipt),  and  put  it  under  the  skin  at  the  neck,  tie  the  skin 
under,  but  not  too  tight  or  it  may  burst  in  roasting,  put  it  on  to 
a  small-sized  spit  and  fasten  it  with  a  holdfast,  or  hang  it  neck 
downwards  from  a  bottle-jack,  put  it  about  eighteen  inches  from 
a  good  roasting-fire,  let  it  turn  about  ten  minutes,  when  the 
skin  is  firm  and  dry  you  press  into  the  bowl  of  a  wooden  spoon, 
so  that  it  sticks,  about  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  rub  the  turkey 
all  over  with  it ;  when  all  melted,  remove  the  turkey  eight  inches 
further  from  the  fire :  one  of  about  six  pounds  will  take  two 
hours  to  roast  without  pouring  any  fat  over  it.  In  case  your 
fire  is  too  fierce  and  likely  to  break  the  skin,  draw  it  back  still 
more ;  it  will,  with  proper  care,  be  of  a  golden  color.  I  do  not 
object  to  the  gizzard  being  placed  under  the  wing  when  roast- 
ing, but  never  the  liver,  which  I  cook  in  the  dripping-pan,  as 
the  gravy  which  would  run  from  it  would  spoil  the  color  of  the 
breast.  When  done,  remove  it,  cut  the  strings,  lay  it  on  your 
dish,  and  pour  under  half  a  pint  of  good  brown  gravy,  or  make 
some  with  glaze ;  or,  whilst  the  bird  is  roasting,  butter  the  bot- 
tom of  a  small  stewpan,  pick  and  slice  two  onions,  lay  them  at 
the  bottom,  cut  the  neck  in  small  pieces,  add  half  a  spoonful  of 
salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  a  little  turnip,  one  clove,  set  on 
a  slow  fire  till  the  onions  are  of  a  brown  color,  then  add  a  pint 
of  water,  let  it  simmer  for  nearly  one  hour,  then  pass  it  through 
a  sieve  into  a  basin,  skim  off  the  fat,  return  the  gravy  again 
into  a  stewpan,  give  it  a  boil,  and,  when  the  turkey  is  ready  to 
send  to  table,  pour  it  under  ;  if  a  little  beef  or  veal  handy,  add 
it  to  the  gravy  if  you  require  much. 


146  POULTRY. 


This  plan  of  roasting  is  adapted  for  all  birds,  and  all  my  re- 
ceipts for  plain  roasting  of  poultry  will  refer  to  this,  with  the 
alteration  of  the  time  which  each  takes  to  cook. 

For  Sausages,  I  seldom  broil  them ;  I  prick  them  with  a 
needle,  rub  the  bottom  of  the  frying-pan  with  a  little  butter, 
put  twelve  sausages  in  it,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire  and  fry 
gently  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  turning  them  when  required 
(by  this  plan  they  will  not  burst),  serve  very  hot  round  the 
turkey,  or  on  a  separate  dish,  of  smoking-hot  mashed  potatoes ; 
to  vary  the  gravy  I  have  tried  the  following  plan :  take  off  the 
fat  which  is  in  the  frying-pan  into  a  basin,  then  add  the  brown 
gravy,  mix  a  good  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot  in  a  cup  with  a 
wineglassful  of  cold  water,  pour  in  the  pan,  boil  a  few  min- 
utes, pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  serve  with  the  turkey.  The 
gravy  this  way  is  excellent. 


356.  Turkey  with  flat  Sausage  Cake. — Roast  as  before,  fry 
thirty  oval  flat  sausages  (see  Receipt),  the  same  quantity  of  the 
same  sized  pieces  of  l^acon,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  make 
a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  about  the  size  of  a  finger,  one 
inch  inside  the  edge  of  the  dish,  dress  your  sausages  and  bacon 
on  it  as  a  crown  alternately,  put  your  turkey  in  the  middle, 
and  gravy  over,  or  glaze,  if  handy ;  plain  boiled  tongue  may, 
of  course,  be  served  with  the  turkey,  or  separate  on  a  dish  of 
greens ;  if  any  remains  of  tongue  from  a  previous  day,  it  may 
be  served  instead  of  the  sausages,  cut  the  same  shape  as  sausages 
and  warmed  in  a  pan ;  if  so,  put  a  nice  green  Brussels  sprout 
between  each  piece.  Bread  sauce  is  generally  served  with  this 
dish ;  for  my  own  part,  I  never  eat  it. 

BOILED  TURKEY. — This  is  a  dish  I  rarely  have,  as  I  never  could  relish 
it  boiled  as  it  generally  is,  by  putting  it  into  that  pure  and  chaste  ele- 
ment water,  into  which  has  been  thrown  some  salt,  the  quantity  of  which 
differs  as  much  as  the  individuals  that  throw  it  in.  I  often  reflect  to 
myself,  why  should  this  innocent  and  well-brought  up  bird  have  its  re- 
mains condemned  to  this  watery  bubbling  inquisition,  especially  when 
alive  it  has  the  greatest  horror  of  this  temperate  fluid ;  it  is  really  for 
want  of  reflection  that  such  mistakes  occur :  the  flavor  of  a  roasted 
turkey,  hot  or  cold,  is  as  superior  to  the  boiled  as  it  is  possible  to  be. 
But  yet  there  is  a  kind  of  boiling  which  can  be  adopted,  and  which  I 
pome  times  practise,  which  makes  a  nice  palatable  dish,  and  the  broth 
can  be  used  for  other  purposes.  I  think,  if  you  try  it,  you  will  never 


POULTRY.  147 


again  resort  to  that  bubbling  system  of  salt  and  water.  I  proceed  as 
follows : — 

357.  Boiled  Braised  Turkey. — I  truss  it  thus  :  Cut  the  neck, 
leaving  the  skin  on;  cut  the  legs  off;  then  run  the  middle 
finger  into  the  inside,  raise  the  skin  of  the  legs,  and  put  them 
under  the  apron  of  the  turkey,  put  the  liver  and  gizzard  in  the 
pinions,  turn  the  small  end  of  the  pinions  on  the  back,  run  a 
packing-needle  with  string  through  the  joint  of  the  wing  and 
middle  joint  of  the  leg,  and  through  the  body,  and  out  at  the 
opposite  leg  and  wing,  bring  it  round  and  tie  it  on  the  back, 
then  run  the  needle  and  string  through  the  ends  of  the  legs 
or  drumstick,  press  it  through  the  back,  and  tie  strongly ;  it  is 
then  ready.  When  the  turkey  is  trussed,  I  then  stuff  it ;  and 
if  I  intend  to  have  oyster  sauce  with  it,  I  chop  about  two  dozen 
of  them  into  small  dice  and  mix  them  with  the  stuffing,  and 
place  inside  the  breast.  I  then  rub  the  breast  with  half  a 
lemon,  and  put  it  into  a  two-gallon  pan,  and  cover  it  with  cold 
water,  in  which  I  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce  of  salt, 
four  onions,  a  stick  of  celery,  one  carrot,  two  turnips  sliced,  a 
large  bouquet  of  parsley,  two  bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme ; 
set  it  on  the  fire,  when  beginning  to  boil,  skim  it,  let  it  sim- 
mer two  hours,  or  more  if  large ;  try  the  breast  with  a  needle, 
if  it  goes  in  and  out  easily  it  is  done ;  take  it  out  and  set  it  on 
a  dish  to  drain,  remove  the  string,  serve  on  a  fresh  dish  with  a 
pint  of  good  thick  oyster  sauce  over  it ;  by  omitting  the  oys- 
ters in  stuffing,  you  may  serve  the  turkey  with  celery  sauce, 
Jerusalem  sauce,  tomato  ditto,  mushroom  ditto,  or  good  pars- 
ley and  butter ;  and,  as  an  accompaniment,  a  piece  of  about 
two  pounds  of  nice  streaked  bacon,  which  has  been  boiled  with 
the  turkeyj  and  from  which  you  have  removed  the  skin,  and 
serve  on  some  greens,  or  Brussels  sprouts,  over  which  you  have 
thrown  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  two  ounces  of  oiled  butter. 

You  see,  dear ,  that  this  dish  can  be  varied  without  much 

expense  and  trouble ;  observe,  that  this  way,  the  broth  is  good 
for  soup  the  same  day,  and  by  the  addition  of  two  pounds  of 
veal  cut  in  small  pieces,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  one 
onion,  one  blade  of  mace,  one  leek,  a  wineglass  of  water ;  put 
into  a  separate  stewpan,  stew  on  fire  till  forming  a  white  glaze, 
then  add  it  to  the  turke^  when  on  the  point  of  boiling  ;  when 
done,  skim  off  all  fat,  pass  it  through  a  tammy  or  cloth ;  you 
may  use  it  for  any  clear  soup  by  adding  a  little  brown  gravy  or 


148  POULTRY. 


coloring,  and  also  for  any  kind  of  puree ;  or,  by  reducing  it  a 
little,  make  white  or  brown  sauce,  adding  to  the  last  the  proper 
color.  I  must  observe,  that  this  will  be  almost  impracticable 
when  you  have  a  party ;  the  only  plan  would  be  to  get  the 
turkey  done  one  hour  before  you  require  it,  keeping  it  hot  with 
its  breast  in  some  of  the  stock ;  but,  as  the  broth  will  keep 
well  in  small  quantities,  it  can  be  reserved  for  the  next  day. 
That  is  my  plan  of  boiling,  but  the  following  is  my  new  way  of 
giving  the  flavor  of  vegetables  to  all  poultry,  which  is  a  decided 
improvement.  The  aroma  from  the  bird  when  the  cover  is  re- 
moved is  quite  inviting,  and  the  appearance  of  it,  which  is  as 
white  as  alabaster,  and  cuts  also  full  of  juice  :  I  call  it — 


358.  Roast  Braised  Turkey. — Peel  and  wash  two  onions, 
one  carrot,  one  turnip,  cut  them  in  thin  slices,  also  a  little  celery, 
a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  bay -leaves,  lay  three  sheets  of  paper 
on  the  table,  spread  your  vegetables,  and  pour  over  them  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil ;  have  your  turkey,  or  poularde, 
trussed  the  same  as  for  boiling;  cover  the  breast  with  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  and  lay  the  back  of  the  bird  on  the  vegetables ; 
cut  a  few  slices  of  lemon,  which  you  lay  on  the  breast  to  keep 
it  white,  tie  the  paper  round  with  string,  then  pass  the  spit  and 
set  it  before  the  fire ;  pour  plenty  of  fat  over  to  moisten  the 
paper  and  prevent  from  burning,  roast  three  hours  at  a  pretty 
good  distance  from  the  fire ;  capons  will  take  two  hours,  pou- 
lardes  one  hour  and  a  half,  fowls  one  hour,  and  chickens  half 
an  hour.  This  way  it  may  be  served  with  almost  any  sauce  or 
garniture,  as  stewed  peas,  oyster  sauce,  jardiniere,  stewed  celery, 
cauliflower,  stewed  cucumbers,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  which 
should  be  turned  in  the  shape  of  a  pear :  these  should  be 
dished  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes ;  that  is,  an  artichoke 
and  a  Brussels  sprout  alternately,  or  a  small  piece  of  white 
cauliflower,  and  a  small  bunch  of  green  asparagus,  or  stewed 
peas,  or  stewed  celery  of  two  inches  long,  never  more,  or  any 
other  vegetable  according  to  season,  which  taste  or  fancy  may 
dictate.  When  I  want  to  serve  them  with  brown  garniture  or 
sauce,  I  remove  the  paper  and  vegetables  twenty  minutes  be- 
fore it  is  done,  and  give  it  a  light  gulden  color,  then  I  serve 
it  with  either  a  ragout  financier,  or  mushoom  or  English 
truffle.  I  also  often  stuff  it  thus  :  I  put  two  pounds  of  sausage 


POULTRY.  149 


meat  in  a  basin  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  I  then  take  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  put  them  in  a  saute-pan  with 
a  little  butter,  and  let  them  do  for  two  minutes,  which  add  to 
the  meat,  also  two  eggs  well  beaten  up,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  if  at  hand,  and  fifteen  fine  roasted  chestnuts  ;  add 
this  to  the  stuffing,  and  fill  the  bird  as  usual,  not  too  full  at  the 
breast ;  roast  as  above,  giving  half  an  hour  longer  for  the  force- 
meat, put  a  quart  of  demi-glaze  and  a  glass  of  sherry  in  a  stew- 
pan,  reduce  it  to  a  pint  and  a  half,  add  in  it  fifty  button  onions 
previously  stewed,  and  twenty-five  roasted  chestnuts;  sauce 
under. 

359.  Turkey,  if  old. — The  French  stew  it  exactly  like  the 
ribs  of  beef,  the  receipt  of  which  you  have ;  but  as  this  is  a 
large  "  piece  de  resistance,"  I  think  I  had  better  give  it  you  in 
full  as  I  do  it : — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  con- 
venient-sized stewpan,  such  as  will  comfortably  hold  the  old 
gentleman ;  cut  one  pound  of  lean  bacon  in  ten  or  twelve  pieces 
for  a  few  minutes  in  the  pan  on  the  fire,  then  add  your  turkey 
trussed  as  for  boiling,  breast  downwards ;  set  it  on  a  moderate 
fire  for  one  hour,  and  until  it  is  a  nice  color,  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  flour,  and  stir  well  round  until  it  forms  a  roux,  then  add 
two  quarts  of  water  or  broth ;  when  you  have  it  on  the  point  of 
boiling,  add  fifty  pieces  of  carrot  the  size  of  walnuts,  the  like  of 
turnip,  ten  button  onions,  a  good  bouquet  of  sprigs  of  thyme, 
two  bay-leaves,  and  ten  of  parsley,  a  small  glass  of  rum,  a  clove, 
a  piece  of  garlic,  and  let  it  stew  gently  for  four  hours.  If  you 
use  water,  season  in  proportion.  Take  your  turkey  out,  and  put 
the  vegetables  and  sauce  in  a  smaller  stewpan,  which  ought  to 
be  nearly  full ;  let  it  simmer  on  the  corner  of  the  fire,  so  that  the 
fat  rises  and  may  be  removed,  and  reduce  it  to  a  demi-glaze, 
dish  up  your  turkey  and  serve  with  the  sauce  over  it ;  small  new 
potatoes,  about  twenty,  when  in  season,  may  be  added  to  the 
sauce  or  roasted  chestnuts.  The  remains  are  excellent  when 
cold,  or  will  warm  again  with  the  addition  of  a  little  broth  or 
water.  The  series  of  entrees  will  contain  the  dishes  made  from 
the  remnants  of  the  foregoing  receipts. 


FOWLS,  in  a  general  sense,  mean  all  kinds  of  poultry,  but,  in  a  limi- 
ted view,  mean  one  species  of  bird,  which  is  exceedingly  common  in  all 


150  POULTRY. 


parts  of  Europe  :  there  are  an  amazing  number  of  kinds  of  this  species 
produced  by  crossing  the  breed ;  great  attention  having  been  bestowed 
upon  this  subject  of  late  years,  that  it  is  quite  impossible  to  say  which 
is  the  best.  They  are  not  originally  natives  of  England,  but  were 
found  there  by  the  Romans,  having  probably  been  brought  by  the  Phoani- 
cians.  We  distinguish  this  kind  in  cookery  as  the  chicken,  capon,  pullet, 
cock,  and  hen.  Chickens  from  their  age"  cannot  be  otherwise  but  ten- 
der ;  capons  should  have  a  fat  vein  on  the  side  of  the  breast,  thick  belly 
and  rump,  comb  short  and  pale,  spurs  short  and  blunt,  and  legs  smooth. 
Pullets  are  best  in  the  spring,  just  before  they  begin  to  lay.  Cocks 
should  have  their  spurs  short,  legs  smooth,  and  comb  short,  smooth,  and 
a  bright  color.  Hens,  legs  and  comb  smooth,  and  full  breast.  Black 
legs  are  best  for  roasting  and  entrees,  and  white  for  boiling. 

For  preparing  them  for  table,  M.  Soyer  has  invented  a  plan : — by 
cutting  the  sinews  of  the  bird,  it  not  only  appears  fuller  and  plumper 
when  cooked,  as  the  heat  is  liable  to  contract  the  sinews,  but  it  also 
affords  facility  for  carving  when  the  sinews  are  divided ;  they  are  trussed 
in  the  usual  way,  only  using  string  instead  of  skewers.  The  following 
is  the  ordinary  plan  of  trussing — 

For  Roasting. — Having  emptied  the  fowl  and  cleaned  the  gizzard, 
cut  the  skin  of  the  wings,  and  put  the  gizzard  and  liver  through  it,  and 
turn  the  pinion  under ;  put  a  skewer  through  the  first  joint  of  the  pinion 
and  the  body,  coming  out  at  the  opposite  side,  and  bring  the  middle  of 
the  leg  close  up  to  it ;  run  a  skewer  through  the  middle  of  both  legs 
and  body,  and  another  through  the  drumstick  and  side-bone,  and  one 
through  the  skins  of  the  feet,  the  nails  of  which  must  be  cut  off. 

For  Boiling. — Prepare  as  before ;  put  the  finger  in  the  inside,  and 
raise  the  skin  of  the  legs  ;  cut  a  hole  in  the  top  of  the  skin,  and  put  the 
legs  under ;  put  the  gizzard  and  liver  in  the  pinions,  and  run  a  skewer 
through  the  first  joint ;  draw  the  leg  close  up,  and  run  a  skewer  through 
the  middle  of  the  legs  and  the  body,  tie  a  string  on  the  tops  of  the  legs 
to  keep  them  in  their  proper  place. 

360.  Poulards,  Capons,  and  Fowls. — These  are  the  best  at 
nine  and  ten  months  old ;  if  after  twelve  or  fourteen,  are  only  fit 
to  be  stewed  like  the  turkey,  No.  369,  but  in  less  time,  or  boiled 
in  broth  or  sauces,  but  when  young  serve  as  boiled  turkey,  No. 
367.     Roast,  No.  365,  less  time,  but  take  care  to  do  it  well,  as 
white  meat  with  red  gravy  in  it  is  unbearable. 

361.  Capon  or  Poulard  roasted. — Prepare  it  as  you  would 
a  turkey,  and  it  may  be  stuffed  with  the  same  kind  of  stuffing, 
tie  over  the  breast  a  large  slice  of  fat  bacon,  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick,  and  two  sheets  of  paper ;  ten  minntes  before 
being  done,  remove  the  paper  and  bacon,  dredge  it,  and  put  a 
piece  of  butter  on  it,  so  that  it  is  of  a  nice  color,  dish  it  up  very 
hot  with  a  gravy  like  the  roast  turkey. 


POULTRY.  151 


362.   Capon  boiled. — The  same  as  the  turkey. 


363.  Capon  or  Poulard  a  VEstragon. — I  have  been  told 
many  fanciful  epicures  idolize  this  dish.  The  bird  should  be 
trussed  for  boiling ;  rub  the  breast  with  half  a  lemon,  tie  over 
it  some  thin  slices  of  bacon,  cover  the  bottom  of  a  small  stewpan 
with  thin  slices  of  the  same,  and  a  few  trimmings  of  either  beef, 
veal,  or  lamb,  two  onions,  a  little  carrot,  turnip,  and  celery,  two 
bay-leaves,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  a  glass  of  sherry,  two  quarts  of 
water,  season  lightly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  simmer 
about  one  hour  and  a  quarter,  keeping  continually  a  little  fire  on 
the  lid,  strain  three  parts  of  the  gravy  into  a  small  basin,  skim  off 
the  fat,  and  pass  through  a  tammy  into  a  small  stewpan,  add  a 
drop  of  gravy  or  coloring  to  give  it  a  nice  brown  color,  boil  a  few 
minutes  longer,  and  put  about  forty  tarragon  leaves ;  wash,  and 
put  in  the  boiling  gravy,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  good  French 
vinegar,  and  pour  over  the  capon  when  you  serve  it ;  by  clarify- 
ing the  gravy,  it  is  an  improvement.  All  kinds  of  fowls  and 
chickens  are  continually  cooked  in  this  manner  in  France.  They 
are  also  served  with  rice. 


364.  Poulard  with  Rice. — Having  been  braised  as  before, 
have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  rice  washed,  put  in  a  stew- 
pan, with  a  pint  of  broth,  three  spoonfuls  of  the  capon's  fat  from 
the  stewpan,  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  let  it  simmer  until  it  is  ten- 
der, take  the  parsley  out,  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  stir  it  round,  or  form  it  into  a  delicate  pulpy 
paste,  lay  some  of  it  on  a  dish  with  the  capon  on  it,  put  the  re- 
mainder round  it,  making  it  smooth  with  a  knife,  leaving  the 
breast  uncovered ;  salamander  the  rice,  and  serve  clear  gravy 
separate ;  sometimes  I  add  a  little  curry  powder  in  the  gravy, 
and  egg  and  bread-crumb  the  rice,  and  salamander  or  make  the 
rice  yellow  with  curry  powder,  and  make  a  border  of  half  eggs 
round  the  dish,  it  looks  well,  and  that  is  a  great  thing ;  and  one 
fowl  done  thus  will  often  go  as  far  as  two  plain.     It  is  generally 
the  custom  with  us  to  send  either  ham,  tongue,  or  bacon,  as  an 
accompaniment  to  poultry.     I  endeavor  to  vary  it  as  much  as 
possible ;  the  following  is  one  of  my  receipts. 

365.  Poulards  or  Capons,  with  Quenelles  and  Tongue. — 


152  POULTRY. 


When  you  are  either  roasting  or  braising,  you  make  about 
twenty  quenelles  with  table  spoons,  out  of  forcemeat  of  veal. 
Proceed  and  cook  the  same ;  when  done,  make  a  roll  of  mashed 
potatoes,  which  put  round  the  dish  you  intend  to  serve  it  in, 
have  ready  cut  from  a  cold  tongue  as  many  pieces  of  the  shape 
of  the  quenelles,  warm  gently  in  a  little  gravy,  then  put  the 
quenelles  on  the  border ;  having  cut  a  piece  off  the  end,  so  that 
they  may  stand  properly,  with  a  piece  of  tongue  between  each, 
put  the  fowl  in  the  centre,  have  ready  made  a  quart  of  a  new 
white  sauce,  which  pour  over  the  fowl  and  quenelles,  glaze  the 
tongue,  and  serve  very  hot.  I  found  this  dish  at  first  rather 
complicated,  but  now  my  cook  can  do  it  well  without  my 
assistance ;  it  looks  and  eats  well,  but  is  only  adapted  for  a 
dinner  of  importance. 


366.  The  same  with  Cucumbers. — Cut  about  four  nice  fresh 
cucumbers  into  lengths  of  two  inches,  peel  and  divide  them 
down  the  middle,  tafce  the  seedy  part  out,  trim  the  corners, 
put  about  thirty  of  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces 
of  butter,  a  spoonful  of  eschalot,  and  the  same  of  sugar ;  lay  on 
a  very  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour,  or  till  tender ;  lay  them  on  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  with  quenelles  as  above,  and  place 
the  tongue  between ;  in  another  stewpan  you  have  put  a  little 
butter,  and  the  trimmings  of  the  cucumbers,  then  add  a  quart 
of  white  sauce,  boil  and  pass  through  a  tammy,  adding  a  little 
sugar,  or  other  seasoning  if  required,  and  finish  with  half  a  gill 
of  good  cream  sauce  over  all  except  the  tongue,  which  glaze. 
Cauliflower,  sprue  grass,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  or  Brussels 
sprouts,  like  the  turkey,  make  excellent  and  inviting  dishes. 


367.  Capon  with  young  Carrots. — Scrape  two  bunches  of 
young  carrots,  keep  them  in  their  original  shape  as  much 
as  possible,  wash  them  and  dry  on  a  cloth,  put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  sugar,  salt, 
and  pepper,  set  it  on  the  fire  for  ten  minutes,  moving  them 
now  and  then,  add  a  quart  of  white  broth,  simmer  gently  until 
very  tender  and  it  comes  to  a  demi-glaze ;  dish  the  carrots  on  a 
border  of  potatoes,  the  points  towards  the  centre,  cook  some 
small  button  onions  the  same  way,  but  very  white,  and  dress 
them  alternately ;  mix  the  two  gravies  together  with  a  quart  of 


POULTRY.  153 


demi-glaze,  set  it  on  the  fire,  boil  fast,  skim  it,  when  forming  a 
bright  thinnish  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  capon  and  vegetables ; 
it  being  served  with  a  brown  sauce,  it  ought  to  be  roasted 
brown  like  turkey  (No.  355) ;  turnips  may  also  be  added  instead 
of  carrots,  or  both. 


368.  Fowls,  Italian   way. — Prepare   and   cook   the   fowls 
as  above,  or  re-warm  some  that  may  be  left,  cut  the  remains  of 
a  tongue  into  pieces  one  inch  long  and  one  quarter  in  thick- 
ness, cut  three  times  the  quantity  of  plain  boiled  macaroni  the 
same  way,  with  a  few  mushrooms,  and  add  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  to  it,  with  some  broth  and  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce ;  when 
boiling,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  and  half 
that  of  Gruyere,  shake  the  stewpan  so  that  the  contents  are  well 
mixed,  add  a  little  salt  and  cayenne,  put  fowl  on  dish,  sauce  over 
and  serve ;  or  put  the  macaroni  on  the  dish,  mix  bread-crumbs 
and  a  little  grated  cheese  together  and  sprinkle  over  it,  put  it 
into  the  oven  until  it  is  a  yellow-brown  cplor,  put  the  fowl  on  it 
very  hot,  and  serve  with  a  little  white  sauce  over,  and  a  strong 
gravy  separate. 

369.  Fowl  a  VEcarlate. — Roast  and  braise  two  nice  fowls, 
and  boil  a  fine  salted  tongue,  which  trim  so  as  to  be  able  to 
stand  it  in  a  dish,  when  place  it  in  the  middle  in  a  slanting 
position,  place  two  fine  heads  of  cauliflower  at  each  end,  and 
make  a  pint  of  cream  sauce,  pour  over  the  fowl,  and  brocoli ; 
glaze  the  tongue  and  serve.     Fowls  may  be  dressed  in  any  of 
the  ways  before  described,  and  dished  up  thus. 

GEESE. — We  have  now  arrived  at  your  favorite  dish,  or,  as  your 
better  half  said  on  your  return  home  from  this,  "  What  is  better  than  a 
goose  stuffed  with  sage  and  onion  ?"  Of  course  many  persons  are  of  his 
idea,  and  I  must  say  that  I  for  one  enjoy  them  occasionally  when 
in  season ;  yes,  indeed  I  do,  and  with  the  original  apple-sauce  too ;  this 
last  addition  to  our  national  cookery  must  have  been  conferred  on  it  by 
the  Germans,  who  eat  sweets  or  stewed  fruit  with  almost  every  dish ; 
or,  perhaps,  from  William  the  Conqueror,  who  left  his  hind  of  apples  to 
visit  and  conquer  our  shores ;  but  never  mind  to  whom  we  are  indebted 
for  this  bizarre  culinary  mixture,  I  sincerely  forgive  them,  and  intend  to 
have  one  for  dinner  to-day,  which  I  shall  have  cooked  as  follows ;  but  I 
must  first  tell  you  how  they  should  be  chosen.  The  flesh  should  be  of 
a  fine  pink  color,  and  the  liver  pale,  the  bill  and  foot  yellow,  and  no 

7* 


154  POULTRY. 


hairs,  or  but  few,  on  the  body ;  the  contrary  will  be  observed  in  an  old 
one,  which  will  have  the  feet  and  bill  red. 


3*70.  Goose  (to  truss). — Having  well  picked  the  goose,  cut 
the  feet  off  at  the  joint,  and  the  pinion  at  the  first  joint ;  cut  off 
the  neck  close  to  the  back,  leaving  all  the  skin  you  can ;  pull 
out  the  throat,  and  tie  a  knot  at  the  end  ;  put  your  middle  finger 
in  at  the  breast,  loosen  the  liver,  &c.,  cut  it  close  to  the  rump, 
and  draw  out  all  the  inside  except  the  soal,*  wipe  it  well,  and 
beat  the  breast  bone  flat ;  put  a  skewer  in  the  wings,  and  draw 
the  legs  close  up,  running  a  skewer  through  the  middle  of  both 
legs  and  body ;  draw  the  small  of  the  leg  close  down  to  the 
side  bone,  and  run  a  skewer  through ;  make  a  hole  in  the  skin 
large  enough  to  admit  the  trail,  which  when  stuffed  place 
through  it,  as  it  holds  the  stuffing  better. 

371.  Roast  Goose. — Peel  and  cut  in  rather  small  dice  six 
middle-sized  onions,  put  in  a  pan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  a  little 
grated  nutmeg  and  sugar,  six  leaves  of  fresh  sage  chopped  fine, 
put  on  fire,  stir  with  wooden  spoon  till  in  pulp,  then  have  the 
goose  ready  trussed  as  under,  and  stuff  it  whilst  hot,  tie  the 
skin  of  the  neck  to  tHe  back,  pass  the  spit  through  and  roast 
two  hours  before  a  moderate  fire ;  baste  the  same  as  turkey 
(No.  355),  give  a  nice  yellow  color,  remove  it  from  the  spit, 
take  off  the  string,  and  serve  with  half  a  pint  of  good  brown 
gravy  under  and  apple-sauce  in  a  boat. 

372.  The  same,  with  another  stuffing. — I  have  tried  it  with 
the  liver  chopped  and  mixed  it  with  the  onions ;  I  also  at  times 
add  two  cold  potatoes  cut  in  dice  and  a  spoonful  of  boiled  rice  ; 
it  removes  the  richness  of  the  fat,  and  renders  it  more  palatable 
and  digestive ;  and  I  also  sometimes  add  twenty  chestnuts  cut 
into  dice.     The  giblets  should  be  stewed  or  made  into  pies. 
(See  Receipt.)     Where  there  is  no  gravy,  broth,  or  glaze,  still 
gravy  is  wanted,  therefore  put  into  the  dripping-pan  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  dredge  a  little  flour 

*  This  word  is  not  found  in  dictionaries,  but  is  used  by  poulterers  to  denote  that 
email  piece  of  the  lungs  which  is  left  in  the  bird. 


POULTRY.  155 


on  it;  when  the  bird  is  done,  pour  the  contents  of  the  pan  into 
a  cup,  remove  the  fat,  pour  over  the  back  of  the  bird,  which 
serve  on  a  very  hot  dish  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  fire. 

373.  Goose  roasted  (another  way). — Having  the  goose  ready 
the  clay  previous  to  using,  take  three  cloves  of  garlic,  which  cut 
into  fbur  pieces  each  and  place  inside  the  goose,  and  stuff  it  as 
follows ;  take  four  apples,  four  onions,  four  leaves  of  sage  not 
broken,  four  leaves  of  lemon-thyme  not  broken,  and  boil  in  a 
stewpan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them  ;  when  done,  pulp 
them  through  a  sieve,  removing  the  sage  and  thyme,  then  add 
sufficient  pulp  of  mealy  potatoes  to  cause  it  to  be  sufficiently 
dry  without  sticking  to  the  hand,  add  pepper  and  salt,  and  stuff 
the  bird,  having  previously  removed  the  garlic,  tie  the  neck  and 
rump,  and  spit  it,  paper  the  breast,  which  remove  after  it  has 
been  at  the  fire  for  twenty  minutes ;  when  done,  serve  it  plain 
with  a  thickened  gravy. 

374.  Goose  stewed. — If  an  old  one,  stew  it  with  vegetables, 
as  duck  (No.  378),  only  give  it  more  time  to  cook.     On  the 
Continent  they  are  dressed  in  different  ways,  but  which  are  too 
complicated  for  both  our  kitchens. 

375.  Goose  Giblets,  Ragout  of,or  of  Turkey. — Put  them 
into  half  a  gallon  of  warm  water  to  disgorge  for  a  few  hours, 
then  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  cut  into  pieces  not  too  small,  put 
into  a  stewpan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  lean  bacon,  with 
two  ounces  of  butter ;   when  a  little  brown,  add  your  giblets, 
and  fry  for  twenty  minutes  longer,  stirring  it  together ;  add  a 
little  flour,  a  good  bouquet  of  parsley,  twenty  button  onions, 
same  number  of  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip,  two  saltspoonfuls 
of  salt,  the  same  of  sugar,  stew  together  one  hour  until  tender, 
skim  off  the  fat,  dish  up  the  meat,  reduce  the  salt  if  required, 
take  bouquet  out,  and  sauce  over  the  giblets :  both  goose  and 
turkey  giblets  take  the  same  time  to  stew.     If  any  remaining, 
they  will  make  a  capital  pie  or  pudding,  or  merely  warm  up 
with  broth  or  water,  and  a  little  flour. 


376.  Preserved  Goose  for  the  farm  or  Country  House. — 
In  case  you  have  more  geese  hi  condition  and  season  than  what 


156  POULTRY. 


you  consume,  kill  and  cut  them  up  into  pieces,  so  that 
there  shall  be  as  little  flesh  left  on  the  carcase  as  possible,  and 
bone  the  leg ;  rub  into  each  piece  with  your  fingers  some  salt, 
in  which  you  have  mixed  a  little  saltpetre,  put  them  into  an 
earthen  pan,  with  some  thyme,  bay-leaf,  spice,  a  clove  of  chop- 
ped garlic,  rub  them  for  a  couple  of  days,  after  which  dip  each 
piece  in  water  and  dry  on  a  cloth ;  when  you  have  chopped 
fine  and  melted  all  the  fat  you  could  get  from  the  goose,  and 
scraped  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  bacon  and  melted  with  it, 
pass  through  a  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  lay  the  pieces  in  it,  and 
bake  very  gently  in  a  slow  oven  until  a  stiff  piece  of  straw  will 
go  through  it,  then  lay  it  in  a  sieve ;  when  nearly  cold  put  it  in 
a  bowl  or  round  preserving  jar,  and  press  a  smaller  one  on  the 
top  so  that  it  all  forms  one  solid  mass,  pour  the  fat  over,  when 
cold  cover  with  a  piece  of  bladder,  keep  it  in  a  cold  place, 
and  it  will  be  good  for  months  together,  and  is  excellent  for 
breakfast,  luncheon,  or  supper,  having  previously  extracted  the 
fat.  Last  winter  I  kept  some  for  three  months  quite  sweet ; 
having  half  a  one  left,  I  put  it  by  in  the  above  way.  bones  and 
all,  in  a  basin,  and  covered  with  the  fat  produced  with  roasting, 
and  put  in  the  larder,  and  it  was  excellent.  Ducks  may  be 
served  in  the  same  way. 

DUCKS. — There  are  several  varieties  of  this  bird,  all,  however, 
originating  from  the  mallard.  There  has  not  been  that  care  and  atten- 
tion paid  to  this  bird  as  to  the  fowl ;  but  I  think  it  is  well  worthy  the 
attention  of  farmers,  it  being  one  which  is  exceedingly  cheap  to  rear ; 
great  care  should  be  evinced  in  feeding  it  twelve  days  previous  to  its 
being  killed.  Ducklings  are  considered  a  luxury,  but  which,  I  think,  is 
more  to  be  attributed  to  their  scarcity  than  flavor.  The  drake  is  gen- 
erally considered  the  best,  but,  as  a  general  rule,  those  of  the  least 
gaudy  plumage  are  the  best ;  they  should  be  hard  and  thick  on  the 
belly,  and  Umber-footed. 

377.  Ducks  roasted. — Prepare  them  for  the  spit  (that  is,  the 
same  as  geese,  only  leave  the  fat  on),  and  stuff  them  with  sage, 
onion,  and  bread-crumbs,  prepared  as  for  the  goose,  roast  before 
a  very  quick  fire,  and  serve  very  hot.  There  are  many  ways 
of  cooking  ducks,  but  this  is  the  plainest  and  the  best. 


378.  Stewed   Duck   and  Peas. — Procure  a    duck   trussed 
with  the  legs  turned  inside,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  two 


POULTRY.  157 


ounces  of  butter  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon 
let  remain  over  a  fire,  stirring  occasionally  until  lightly  brown- 
ed, when  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well)  and  a  quart 
of  broth  or  water,  stir  round  gently  until  boiling,  when  skim, 
and  add  twenty  button  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  with  a  bay- 
leaf,  and  two  cloves,  let  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  add 
a  quart  of  nice  young  peas,  let  simmer  until  done,  which  will 
take  about  half  an  hour  longer,  take  out  the  duck,  place  it  upon 
your  dish  (taking  away  the  string  it  was  trussed  with),  take  out 
the  parsley  and  bay-leaf,  season  the  peas  with  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  skim  the  fat,  reduce  a  little  if  not  sufficiently 
thick,  pour  over  the  duck  and  serve. 


379.  Duckling  with  Turnips  is  a  very  favorite  dish  amongst 
the  middle  classes  in  France.  Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  in- 
stead of  peas  use  about  forty  pieces  of  good  turnips  cut  into 
moderate-sized  square  pieces,  having  previously  fried  them  of  a 
light  yellow  color  in  a  little  butter  or  lard,  and  drained  them 
upon  a  sieve,  dress  the  duck  upon  a  dish  as  before,  season  the 
sauce  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  reduce  until  rather 
thickish,  a  thin  sauce  not  suiting  a  dish  of  this  description ; 
the  turnips  must  not,  however,  be  in  puree ;  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

The  remains  of  ducks  left  from  a  previous  dinner  may  be 
hashed  as  directed  for  goose,  and  for  variety,  should  peas  be 
in  season,  a  pint  previously  boiled  may  be  added  to  the  hash 
just  before  serving.  The  sage  and  apple  must  in  all  cases  be 
omitted. 


380.  Ducks  a  V Aubergiste  (or  Tavern-keepers'  fashion). — 
Truss  one  or  two  ducks  with  the  legs  turned  inside,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  place  them 
over  a  slow  fire,  turning  round  occasionally,  until  they  have  taken 
a  nice  brown  color,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well  with 
them,  add  a  quart  of  water,  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt 
and  sugar,  let  simmer  gently  until  the  ducks  are  done  (but 
adding  forty  button  onions  well  peeled  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
boil),  keep  hot;  peel  and  cut  ten  turnips  in  slices,  fry  them 
in  a  frying-pan  in  butter,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  put  them  into 
the  sauce,  and  stew  until  quite  tender ;  dress  the  ducks  upon  your 


158  FLANCS ENTREES. 


dish,  skim  the  fat  from  the  sauce,  which  has  attained  a  con- 
sistency, add  some  fresh  mushrooms,  pour  round  the  ducks 
and  serve. 


FLANCS. 

AT  this  part  of  the  dinner  there  are  those  dishes  which  are  called 
Flancs,  by  which  is  understood,  those  dishes  whose  contents  are  not  so 
large  as  the  removes  and  not  so  small  as  the  entrees,  and  the  Receipts 
for  which  may  be  taken  from  either  of  those  departments,  with  tnis 
difference ; — instead  of  meat  or  poultry  being  cut  up,  it  should  be  left 
whole :  for  instance,  a  loin  of  mutton,  instead  of  being  cut  up  into  cutlets, 
should  be  served  whole,  with  some  sauce  under  it,  and  a  duck,  instead  of 
being  divided,  should  be  left  whole,  with  some  sauce.  It  is  also  a  great 
addition  in  the  appearance  of  the  table,  and  should  always  be  served  in 
a  differently-formed  dish  to  the  entrees  or  removes ;  and  are  only  re- 
quired when  eighteen  or  twenty  persons  dine,  and  four  corner  dishes 
are  used. 


ENTREES  OR  MADE  DISHES. 

ENTREES  are,  in  common  terms,  what  are  called  made-dishes;  of 
course,  these  are  dishes  upon  which,  in  the  high  class  of  cookery,  the 
talent  of  the  cook  is  displayed.  Great  care  should  be  observed  in  dish- 
ing them  up,  for  the  eye  is  a  great  assistance  to  the  palate ;  it  often  hap- 
pens that  the  carelessness  of  the  servant  destroys  the  labors  of  the  cook, 
by  the  manner  in  which  the  dish  is  taken  from  the  kitchen  to  the  dining- 
room.  In  some  measure  to  avoid  that,  I  direct  a  small  thin  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  about  half  an  inch  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep, 
to  be  placed  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  which  keeps  each  object  in  its 
place :  they  should  always  be  served  exceedingly  hot. 

Made  Dishes  of  Beef. — The  remainder  of  any  cooked  joints 
of  beef  may  be  advantageously  and  economically  dressed  in  the 
following  ways : 

381.  Hashed  Beef. — Cut  the  beef  into  small  thin  slices,  which 
lay  upon  a  plate,  and  to  every  pound  of  beef  add  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  a  little  chopped  onion  or  eschalot,  two  salt- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  a  half  one  of  pepper,  mix  the  whole  well 


ENTREES.  159 


together,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water, 
stir  it  over  the  fire  until  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  when  set  it 
at  the  corner  of  the  fire  to  simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  it  is  then 
ready  to  serve.  A  great  improvement  to  the  appearance  of 
hash  may  be  effected  by  adding  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brown  gravy 
(No.  1*77),  or  a  teaspoonful  of  coloring  (No.  178),  which  might 
always  be  kept  in  a  bottle.  The  flavor  of  any  kind  of  hash 
may  be  varied,  by  adding  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  or  thyme,  or 
a  couple  of  bay-leaves,  or  a  little  tarragon,  or  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
catsup,  Soyer's,  Harvey's,  Soho,  or  Reading  sauce. 


382.  Miroton  of  Beef. — Peel  and  cut  into  thin  slices  two 
large  onions,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  or  saucepan,  with  two 
ounces  of  salt  butter,  place  it  over  a  slow  fire,  keeping  the  onions 
stirred  round  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  rather  brown,  but  not 
burnt  in  the  least,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  which  mix 
well  in,  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  water  or  broth  if  handy, 
season  with  three  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  two  of  sugar,  and  one  of 
pepper  if  water  has  been  used,  but  if  broth,  diminish  the  quan- 
tity of  salt,  add  a  little  coloring  (No.  178),  to  improve  its  ap- 
pearance ;  put  in  the  beef,  which  you  have  previously  cut  into 
small  thin  slices,  as  free  from  fat  as  possible,  let  it  remain  a  few 
minutes  upon  the  fire  to  simmer,  and  serve  upon  a  hot  dish. 
To  vary  the  flavor,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  might  be  added, 
or  half  a  glass  of  sherry.  The  above  proportions  are  sufficient 
for  one  pound  and  a  half  of  solid  meat,  and  of  course  could  be 
increased  or  diminished,  if  more  or  less  meat. 


383.  Another  way. — Prepare  the  meat  precisely  as  in  the 
last,  and  when  done  put  it  into  a  pie-dish,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs 
lightly  over,  enough  to  cover  the  meat,  upon  which  lay  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  put  the  dish  in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour,  or 
before  the  fire,  with  a  screen  behind  it,  turning  the  dish  round 
occasionally.  By  grating  the  crust  of  bread  you  would  obtain 
some  brown  bread-crumbs,  which  would  do  equally  as  well  as 
bread  rubbed  through  a  sieve. 

Should  you  have  any  cold  from  the  first  receipt,  it  may  be 
served  as  here  directed ;  but  being  cold,  would  require  to  be 
longer  in  the  oven  to  become  well  hot  through. 


160  ENTREES. 


384.  Another  way. — If  any  left  from  a  previous  dinner,  put 
it  in  a  dish,  placing  the  meat  in  the  centre,  rather  higher,  cover 
over  with  some  delicate  mashed  potatoes,  about  two  inches  in 
thickness,  to  form  a  dome,  rub  some  egg  over  with  a  paste- 
brush,  and  sprinkle  crumbs  of  bread  (either  grated  or  otherwise) 
upon  the  top,  and  set  in  the  oven  until  well  browned,  when 
serve.  • 


385.  A  quicker  way. — Cook  a  few  slices  of  lean  bacon  in  a 
frying-pan,  but  not  too  much,  lay  some  of  them  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pie-dish,  over  which  lay  slices  of  beef  cut  thin,  which 
season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  chopped  parsley,  and  chopped 
eschalots   (if  not   objectionable),  sprinkle  over  a  little  flour, 
proceeding  thus  until  the  dish  is  pretty  full,  when  pour  over 
half  a  gill  of  broth  or  water,  to  which  you  have  added  a  little 
coloring,  No.  178,  (more  seasoning  would  be  required  if  water 
was  used),  set  the  dish  in  the  oven  (having  previously  covered 
the  meat  over  with  mashed  potatoes)  for  about  an  hour.     By 
adding  half  the  above  quantity  of  liquor,  the  meat  might  be 
covered  with  a  thin  suet  crust  and  served  as  a  pie,  as  also 
might  any  of  the  former  receipts,  in  which  also  a  bay-leaf, 
chopped  parsley,  or  even  chopped  gherkins,  might  be  served, 
being  a  great  improvement. 

386.  Beef  Palates. — Although  this  is  an  article  very  seldom 
used  in  small  families,  they  are  very  much  to  be  commended ; 
they  may  be  dressed  in  various  ways,  and  are  not  expensive, 
about  four  would  be  sufficient  for  a  dish.     Put  them  into  a 
large  stewpan  of  lukewarm  water,  where  let  them  remain  four 
or  five  hours  to  disgorge,  after  which  pour  off  the  water,  cover 
again  with  fresh  water,  and  place  the  stewpan  upon  the  fire 
until  the  palates  become  hard,  when  take  out  one,  which  dip 
into  cold  water,  scrape  it  with  a  knife,  and  if  the  skin  comes 
off  easily,  take  out  the  remainder,  but  if  not,  let  them  remain 
a  short  time  longer,  scrape  them  until  you  have  got  off  all  the 
skin,  and  nothing  but  the  white  half  transparent  substance 
remains.     Then  make  a  white  stock  as  directed  (No.  130),  in 
which  boil  them  three  or  four  hours  until  very  tender,  which 
try  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  then  take  them  up,  lay  them  flat 
upon  a  dish,  covered  with  a  little  of  the  stock,  and  place 


ENTREES.  161 


another  dish  of  the  same  size  over,  to  keep  them  flat,  let 
remain  until  cold,  when  they  are  ready  to  serve  in  either  of  the 
following  ways : — 

387.  Beef  Palates  a  la  Bretonne. — Peel  and  cut  two  large 
onions  into  slices,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of 
butter,  stirring  them  over  the  fire  until  lightly  fried,  when  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  which  mix  well  in,  and  a  gill  of  broth, 
season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  add  a  few  drops  of 
brown  gravy  or  browning  (No.  179),  and  a  spoonful  of 
mustard ;  boil  the  whole,  keeping  it  stirred  until  forming  a 
thickish  pulp,  when  cut  the  palates  into  square  pieces,  and  put 
into  it ;  when  well  hot  through  they  are  ready  to  serve ;  also 
make  a  curry  sauce,  as  No.  151 ;  cut  your  palate  and  warm  in 
it,  serve  with  rice  separate,  and  it  is  delicious. 


388.  Beef  Palates  a  la  Poulette. — Make  a  little  white  sauce 
as  directed,  No.  130;  after  having  prepared  the  palates,  cut 
them  into  square  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  just 
covered  with  some  of  the  white  sauce,  season  with  a  little  white 
pepper,  salt,  sugar,  chopped  parsley,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon ;  let  them  simmer  about  five  minutes,  when  pour  in  a 
liaison  of  one  yolk  of  an  egg,  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream  or  milk,  stir  it  in  rather  quickly,  and  not  afterwards 
permitting  it  to  boil,  then  turn  it  upon  your  dish,  place  sippets 
of  toasted  bread  round,  and  serve  :  chopped  parsley  and  a  little 
lemon  may  be  added. 

389.  Beef  Palates  a  la  Maitre  <T  Hotel.— Cut  up  the 
palates  as  in  the  last,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  just 
covered  with  melted  butter,  to  which  add  a  gill  of  milk,  let 
simmer  very  gently  about  ten  minutes,  stirring  it  round  occa- 
sionally; have  ready  two  ounces  of  well-seasoned  maitre  d' 
hotel  butter,  which  put  into  the  stewpan,  shaking  it  round  until 
the  butter  is  melted  and  well  mixed,  when  serve  as  in  the  last. 


390.   Ox-tails  a  la  Jardiniere. — Cut  and  cook  two  ox-tails 
directed  for  soup,  but  just  before  they  are  done,  skim  well, 


162  ENTREES. 


and  take  out  the  pieces  of  tails,  which  put  upon  a  dish,  then  in 
another  stewpan  put  two  ounces  of  butter,  to  which,  when 
melted,  add  three  ounces  of  flour,  stirring  it  over  the  fire  until 
forming  a  brownish  roux  (thickening),  then  mix  by  degrees 
two  quarts  of  the  stock  the  tails  were  boiled  in,  and  boil 
altogether  ten  minutes,  then  put  in  the  tails,  with  one  carrot 
and  two  turnips  (cut  into  small  dice,  or  any  other  shape,  with 
a  vegetable  cutter),  and  about  thirty  button  onions ;  let  the 
whole  simmer  very  gently  upon  the  corner  of  the  fire,  keeping 
it  well  skimmed,  until  the  vegetables  are  tender,  and  the  sauce 
sufficiently  thick  to  adhere  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when 
dress  the  meat  upon  a  dish,  reduce  the  sauce,  which  pour  over, 
and  serve. 


391.  Ox-tails  au   Gratin. — Cook   two   ox-tails   as   before, 
and  when  cold,  dry  them  upon  a  cloth,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  have  a  couple  of  eggs  well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  into  which 
dip  each  piece  singly,  afterwards  throwing  them  into  a  dish  of 
bread-crumbs,  to  cover  every  part,  then  beat  them  lightly  with 
a  knife,  and  again  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  broil  them  upon 
a  gridiron,  or  place  them  in  a  very  hot  oven  until  of  a  brownish 
color,  when  serve  with  any  sauce  you  may  fancy,  or  with  a 
little  plain  gravy. 

392.  Ox-tails,  Sauce  piquante. — Cook  the  tails  as  before, 
and  when  done  dress  them  upon  your  dish  pyramidically,  then 
make  about  a  pint  of  sharp  sauce,  No.  135,  but  omitting  half 
the  quantity  of  vinegar,  and  reducing  it  until  rather  thick ; 
season  rather  highly,  add  three  or  four  gherkins  chopped  very 
fine,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 


393.  Ox  Heart. — This  dish,  although  not  very  recherche,  is 
a  good  family  one,  and  remarkable  for  its  cheapness.  Put  it 
into  lukewarm  water  one  hour  to  disgorge,  then  wipe  it  well 
with  a  cloth,  and  stuff  the  interior  with  a  highly-seasoned  veal 
stuffing,  tie  it  up  in  paper,  and  pass  a  small  spit  through  the 
sides-,  set  it  before  a  good  fire  for  about  two  hours  to  roast, 
keeping  it  well  basted;  when  done,  take  off  the  paper,  and 
serve  with  any  sharp  sauce,  or  a  little  plain  gravy.  Two  hours 


ENTREES.  163 


would  be  sufficient  to  roast  a  large  heart ;  but  if  smaller,  of 
course  less  time  in  proportion  would  be  required.  I  have  also 
stuffed  a  heart  with  sage  and  onion,  and  even  ventured  the  ap- 
ple sauce  :  both  succeeded  admirably. 

I  remember,  when  in  business,  upon  one  occasion,  having  a  few  friends 
pop  in  unexpectedly  about  luncheon-time  upon  a  Saturday  (which  is  a 
day  I  always  contrived  to  keep  my  larder  as  short  as  possible),  and  having 
notlu'ng  but  a  heart  as  a  meal  to  give  them,  I  immediately  gave  orders 
to  the  cook  to  cut  it  into  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  dip  each  piece  in  flour, 
and  afterwards  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  then  to  put  four  spoonfuls 
of  oil  in  the  frying-pan,  lay  part  of  the  pieces  in,  and  saute  of  a  nice 
color,  then  to  keep  them  hot  in  a  dish  and  saute  the  remainder ;  and 
when  all  done,  to  pour  off  part  of  the  oil,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  in 
the  pan,  mixing  it  with  the  remaining  oil  and  gravy,  then  pouring  in  a 
gill  of  water,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  four  spoonfuls  of  the 
vinegar  from  piccalilly,  and  a  little  of  the  pickle  finely  chopped ;  boil 
the  whole  a  minute,  pour  over  the  heart,  and  serve  very  hot.  It  pleased 
very  much,  and  I  have  since  had  some  with  a  little  plain  gravy,  and 
broiled  bacon :  in  both  instances  it  was  very  good. 


394.  Potato  Sandwiches. — Saute  the  slices  of  beef  as  di- 
rected for  bubble  and  squeak,  cover  one  side  of  each  piece  with 
mashed  potatoes  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  over,  then  proceed  the  same  with  the  other  sides, 
fry  in  hot  fat  of  a  light  brown  color,  as  you  would  a  sole,  and 
serve.  Any  kind  of  fresh  meat  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way. 


395.  Bubble  and  Squeak. — I  am  certain  you  must  know,  as 
well  as  myself,  of  our  hereditary  dish  called  bubble  and  squeak ; 
but,  like  the  preparation  of  other  things,  there  is  a  good  way 
and  a  bad ;  and,  as  you  prefer  the  former  to  the  latter,  proceed 
as  follows : — Boil  a  few  greens,  or  a  savoy  cabbage  (which  has 
been  previously  well-washed),  in  plain  water  until  tender,  which 
then  drain  until  quite  dry  in  a  colander  or  sieve,  put  it  upon  a 
trencher,  and  chop  it  rather  fine  with  a  knife,  then  for  a  pound 
of  salt  beef  you  have  in  slices,  put  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  in  which  saute  the  beef  gently  but 
not  too  dry  ;  when  done,  keep  it  hot,  put  the  cabbage  in  the 
frying-pan,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  hot 
through,  dress  it  upon  a  dish,  lay  the  beef  over  and  serve. 


164  ENTREES. 


Endive  or  large  cabbage-lettuces  may  be  used  instead  of  cab- 
bage, but  care  must  be  taken  to  drain  off  all  the  water. 


396.  Stewed  Beef  or  Rump  Steak. — Have  a  steak  weighing 
two  pounds,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness,  then  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  when  melted  lay 
in  the  steak,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  cut  into 
very  small  square  pieces,  place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  turn- 
ing the  steak  over  occasionally  until  a  little  browned,  when  lay 
it  out  upon  a  dish,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  but- 
ter in  the  stewpan,  which  continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until 
forming  a  brownish  roux,  then  again  lay  in  the  steak,  add  a  pint 
of  water,  with  a  glass  of  sherry  if  handy,  and  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  couple  of  bay-leaves,  let  simmer  slowly  for  one 
hour,  when  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  add  twenty  button  onions, 
let  it  again  simmer  until  the  onions  are  very  tender,  as  likewise 
the  steak,  which  dress  upon  a  dish,  take  the  onions  and  bacon 
out  with  a  colander-spoon,  and  lay  them  upon  the  steak,  pour 
the  sauce  round  and  serve.     This  slow  process  must  not  alarm 
you. 

397.  Ox  Brains  are  prepared  exactly  as  directed  for  calf's 
brains,  but  being  larger,  require  much  longer  to  disgorge,  as 
also  a  proportionate  time  longer  to  cook ;  when  done,  in  addition 
to  the  sauce  ordered  for  calf's  brains,  they  may  be  served  with 
strips  of  bacon  broiled  and  dressed  in  a  border  round,  sauce 
over  with  highly-seasoned  melted  butter  and  parsley  sauce. 
You  must  observe,  that  all  such  kind  of  dishes  being  of  them- 
selves naturally  tasteless,  require  to  be  highly  seasoned :  any 
sharp  sauce  is  good  with  it. 


398.  Beef  a-la-Mode. — Procure  a  small  piece  of  rump,  sir- 
loin, or  ribs  of  beef,  about  twelve  pounds  in  weight,  take  away 
all  the  bone,  and  lard  the  meat  through  with  ten  long  pieces  of 
fat  bacon,  then  put  it  into  a  long  earthen  pan,  with  a  calf's  foot, 
four  onions,  two  carrots,  cut  in  slices  if  large,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, two  bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  two  cloves  stuck  into 
one  of  the  onions,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  of  salt, 
four  wine-glasses  of  sherry,  four  ditto  of  water,  and  a  pound 
of  streaky  bacon  cut  in  squares,  place  the  cover  over  the  pan 


ENTREES.  165 


with  a  piece  of  common  flour  and  water  paste  round  the 
edges  to  keep  it  perfectly  air-tight,  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  four  hours,  when  take  out  of  the  pan,  and  dress  upon 
a  dish  with  the  vegetables  and  bacon  round,  skim  and  pass 
the  gravy  through  a  hair  sieve,  which  pour  over  and  serve. 
But  the  above  is  best  eaten  cold,  when  it  should  not  be  taken 
from  the  pan,  or  the  pan  opened  until  nearly  so. 

A  long  brown  earthen  pan  for  the  above  purposes  may  be 
obtained  at  any  china  warehouse,  but  should  you  not  be 
able  to  procure  one,  a  stewpan  must  supply  its  place. 

399.  Another  method. — Have  ready  six  pounds  of  rump 
of  beef,  cut  into  pieces  two  inches  square,  each  of  which 
lard  through  with  two  or  three  strips  of  bacon;  have  also 
two  pounds  of  streaky  bacon,  which  clear  from  the  rind  and 
cut,  into  squares  half  the  size  of  the  beef,  put  the  whole  into 
an  earthen  pan,  with  two  calf's  feet  (cut  up  small),  half  a 
pint  of  sherry,  two  bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  four  onions,  with  a  clove  stuck  in  each,  a  blade  of 
mace,  and  half  a  pint  of  water,  cover  the  pan  as  in  the  last, 
and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours ;  when  done, 
do  not  remove  the  lid  until  three  parts  cold,  then  take  out 
the  meat,  lay  some  of  the  beef  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew- 
pan  (not  too  large),  then  a  little  bacon,  then  more  beef,  and 
so  on  alternately,  press  them  lightly  together,  pass  the  gravy 
through  a  hair  sieve  over,  and  leave  it  until  quite  cold  and  set, 
when  dip  the  stewpan  into  hot  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon  a 
dish  to  serve.  The  calf's  feet  may  be  made  hot  in  a  little  of 
the  stock,  to  which  add  two  pats  of  butter,  with  which  you 
have  mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  season  with  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  half  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  serve  as  an  entree. 
The  above  is  excellent  either  hot  or  cold. 


400,  Fillet  of  Beef.— Procure  a  piece  of  fillet  of  beef 
weighing  about  two  or  three  pounds,  which  may  be  obtained  at 
any  butcher's,  being  cut  from  underneath  the  rump ;  trim  off 
part  of  the  fat,  so  as  to  round  the  fillet,  which  cut  into  slices  the 
thickness  of  your  finger,  beat  them  lightly  with  a  chopper,  and 
cut  the  thin  skin  which  covers  the  top  of  the  fillet,  to  prevent 


166  ENTREES. 


their  curling  up  whilst  broiling ;  place  them  upon  a  gridiron  over 
a  sharp  fire,  seasoning  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  turning 
three  or  four  times  to  preserve  the  gravy :  about  six  or  seven 
minutes  will  be  sufficient  to  cook  them.  Three  or  four  slices 
would  be  sufficient  for  a  corner  dish ;  but  if  for  a  principal  dish, 
of  course  more  would  be  required.  Fillet  of  beef  dressed  as 
above  may  be  rubbed  over  with  maitre  d'hdtel  or  anchovy  but- 
ter, and  served  very  hot. 

401.  Fillet  of  Beef  saute. — After  having  cut  the  fillet  in 
slices  as  in  the  last,  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  clean  frying- 
pan,  which  set  upon  the  fire,  and  when  melted,  lay  in  the  meat, 
seasoned  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  half  that  quantity  of 
pepper  to  each  piece ;  turn  them  over  three  or  four  times  whilst 
cooking,  and,  when  done,  dress  upon  your  dish,  with  either  of 
the  butters  mentioned  in  the  last  spread  over. 


402.  Another  method. — When  the  fillets  are  dished  up,  put 
a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  the  pan  they  were  cooked 
in,  which  cook  for  about  a  minute,  but  not  letting  them  burn, 
then  pour  off  part  of  the  fat,  if  too  much,  and  add  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  flour ;  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  becoming  brown- 
ish, then  add  nearly  a  pint  of  water,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
and  a  few  drops  of  browning ;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  season- 
ing with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  when  of  the  consistency 
of  thick  sauce,  pour  over  the  fillets  and  serve.  A  few  chopped 
pickles  of  any  description  (but  not  too  hot)  might  be  introduced, 
but  then  half  the  quantity  of  vinegar  would  be  sufficient.  A 
spoonful  of  Harvey's  sauce  may  be  added,  and  a  little  glaze  im- 
proves it. 

Mutton,  lamb,  or  pork-chops,  or  veal-cutlets  may  be  dressed 
in  a  similar  manner. 


403.  Minced  Beef. — Cut  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  cooked 
beef  into  very  small  dice,  which  put  upon  a  plate ;  in  a  stew- 
pan  put  a  good  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onions,  with  a  piece 
of  butter  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  which  stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  onions  become  lightly  browned,  when  stir  in  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  with  which  mix  by  degrees  half  a  pint  of 


ENTREES.  167 


broth  (or  water)  to  which  you  have  added  a  few  drops  of  brown- 
ing and  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  stirring 
it  the  whole  time ;  then  throw  in  the  meat,  season  rather  highly 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and,  when  hot,  pour  it  into  a  deep 
dish,  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread  round,  or  poached 
eggs  on  it. 

404.  Croquettes  of  Beef. — Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last, 
but  omitting  the  vinegar ;  when  done,  stir  in  two  yolks  of  eggs 
quickly,  stir  another  minute  over  the  fire,  then  pour  it  upon 
a  dish  until  cold ;  have  a  couple  of  eggs  well  beaten  upon  a 
plate,  also  some  bread-crumbs  in  a  separate  dish,  then  divide  the 
preparation  into  about  a  dozen  pieces,  which  roll  up  into  round 
balls,  or  any  other  shape,  and  throw  them  into  the  bread-crumbs, 
move  them  over  until  well  covered,  then  roll  them  into  the  egg, 
then  the  bread-crumbs  again,  from  which  take  them  gently, 
patting  the  surface  lightly  with  a  knife,  put  them  into  very  hot 
lard  or  fat  to  fry  of  a  yellowish-brown  color,  being  careful  not  to 
break  them  whilst  frying ;  when  done  drain  them  upon  a  cloth, 
and  serve  either  upon  a  napkin  or  with  fried  parsley. 


405.  A  Family  French  Salad  for  the  Summer. — I  can  as- 
sure you  that,  when  in  France  during  the  hot  weather,  I  used 
to  enjoy  the  following  salads  immensely,  having  them  usually 
twice  a  week  for  my  dinner ;  they  are  not  only  wholesome,  but 
cheap  and  quickly  done.  Cut  up  a  pound  of  cold  beef  into 
thin  slices,  which  put  into  a  salad-bowl  with  about  half  a  pound 
of  white  fresh  lettuce,  cut  into  pieces  similar  to  the  beef,  season 
over  with  a  good  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  that  quantity  of  pep- 
per, two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  four  of  good  salad  oil,  stir  all 
together  lightly  with  a  fork  and  spoon,  and  when  well  mixed  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 

For  a  change,  cabbage-lettuce  may  be  used,  or,  if  in  season, 
a  little  endive  (well  washed),  or  a  little  celery,  or  a  few  gher- 
kins ;  also,  to  vary  the  seasoning,  a  little  chopped  tarragon  and 
chervil,  chopped  eschalots,  or  a  little  scraped  garlic,  if  approved 
of,  but  all  in  proportion,  and  used  with  moderation.  White 
haricot  beans  are  also  excellent  with  it. 


406.  Potatoes  and  Meat  Salad. — Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but 


168  ENTREES. 


omitting  the  lettuce ;  if  any  cold  potatoes  remain  from  a  pre- 
vious dinner,  peel  and  cut  them  in  halves  if  small,  but  in 
quarters  if  large,  and  then  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  shilling  but 
four  times  the  thickness ;  put  them  into  a  salad-bowl  with  the 
meat,  seasoning  as  before,  but  using  more  oil  and  vinegar,  and 
adding  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  A  small  quantity  of 
any  description  of  pickles  might  be  added  to  this  salad,  as  also 
some  anchovies  or  olives.  The  remains  of  any  fowls,  turkey, 
cold  veal,  lamb,  or  even  mutton,  may  be  mixed  in  salads,  but, 
according  to  our  habits,  many  persons  would  fancy  they  were 
not  nutritious ;  of  that  I  can  assure  them  to  the  contrary.* 

407.  Ox-Kidneys. — Cut  a  nice  fresh  ox-kidney  into  slices, 
each  being  about  the  size  of  a  half-crown  piece,  but  double  the 
thickness  (avoiding  the  white  part,  or  root,  which  is  tough  and 
indigestible),  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan  upon  the  fire,  and  when  very  hot  but  not  black,  put  in  the 
pieces  of  kidney,  stirring  them  round  with  a  wooden  spoon  three 
minutes  over  a  brisk  fire ;  then  add,  for  each  pound  weight  of 
kidney,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
half  the  quantity  of  pepper,  and  a  little  sugar,  moisten  with  a 
gill  of  water  and  half  a  glass  of  sherry,  add  a  little  browning  if 
handy,  and  let  simmer  gently  for  five  minutes,  stirring  them 
round  occasionally ;  if  too  thick,  add  a  few  drops  more  of  water, 
the  same  should  be  sufficiently  thick  to  adhere  to  the  back  of 
the  spoon,  pour  them  out  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Broth  might  be  used  instead  of  water  if  convenient,  but  then 
the  seasoning  should  be  a  little  diminished,  a  little  chopped  es- 
chalot, parsley,  or  a  few  mushrooms,  would  be  an  improve- 
ment. 

By  cutting  an  ox-kidney  lengthwise  in  three  slices,  it  might 
be  broiled  or  sauted ;  if  for  gentlemen,  season  rather  highly, 
but  if  ladies  are  to  be  the  partakers,  season  more  moderately ; 
a  little  gravy  may  be  served  with  it,  to  which  you  have  added 
a  little  catsup ;  the  root  of  the  kidney  must  not  be  cut  away  in 
this  case,  although  not  eatable.  Ox-kidneys  are  also  an  ex- 
cellent addition  to  beef-steak  puddings  and  pies. 

*  The  quantity  of  the  meat  and  vegetable  should  pretty  equally  balance  with 
each  other;  after  such  a  meal,  a  man's  appetite  is  perfectly  satisfied,  and  he  is 
ready  for  an  afternoon's  work  if  required.  It  also  does  not  require  the  aid  of  any 
fire,  which  we  so  ungratefully  abhor  in  hot  weather.  Mr.  B.  very  much  approves 
of  it  once  a  week  in  summer. 


ENTREES.  169 


408.  Ox-Feet  or  Coto-Heels  are  very  nutritious,  especially 
when  well  boiled ;  they  may  be  served  in  either  of  the  methods 
directed  for  tripe,  or  with  a  plain  parsley-and-butter  sauce,  to 
which,  for  a  change,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or  a  drop  of  vinegar 
may  be  added.  Should  any  be  left  from  the  first  day's  dinner, 
it  may  be  served  a  la  Lyonnaise,  as  directed  for  cold  tripe. 


409.  Remains  of  Ox- Tongue. — The  remains  of  a  tongue  from 
a  previous  dinner  may  be  again  served  thus : — Cut  it  into  thin 
slices,  put  a  small  piece  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  lay  the  pieces 
of  tongue  over,  which  warm  a  few  minutes  in  a  saute-pan, 
and  serve  with  veal  or  fowl,  if  any ;  when  at  home  alone,  I 
frequently  have  it  with  mashed  potatoes  under,  it  makes  a  very 
good  dish  for  luncheon.     The  pieces  of  tongue  might  also  be 
egged  and  bread-crumbed  previous  to  cooking  as  above,  and 
served  with  a  plain  gravy,  or  any  sharp  sauce.     (See  Sauces.) 
Or  should  you  have  any  tongue,  and  veal  or  beef  remaining, 
sprinkle  a  little  chopped  eschalots  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  lay 
a  layer  of  meat   over,  season  with  a  little   salt,  pepper,  and 
chopped  parsley,  then  a  layer  of  the  tongue ;  have  some  yellow- 
ish crusts  of  bread  grated,  a  teaspoonful  of  which  sprinkle  over 
the  tongue,  then  again  a  layer  of  the  meat,  proceeding  thus 
until  the  dish  is  nearly  full,  when  sprinkle  more  of  the  brown 
bread-crumbs  over  the  top,  placing  a  small  piece  of  butter  here 
and  there  ;  pour  in  two  wineglassfuls  of  water,  set  it  in  a  warm 
oven  half  an  hour,  and  serve  very  hot.     Or  instead  of  bread- 
crumbs, make  a  little  good  mashed  potatoes,  which  spread  over 
it  smoothly  with  a  spoon  or  knife,  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  warm 
oven,  and  serve. 

Should  the  remains  of  a  tongue  be  but  small,  and  if  well 
pickled  and  boiled,  the  root  and  all  would  be  excellent  hi  any 
kind  of  beef,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  or  pork,  hashed,  or  in  pies  or 
puddings  made  from  those  meats. 

410.  Remains  of  Salt  Beef. — The  remains  of  salt  beef  are 
very  excellent,  served  in  the  few  following  ways,  no  matter  from 
what  joint,  or  from  what  part  of  the  joint :  cut  as  large  and  thin 
slices  as  possible,  dip  each  slice  into  some  vinegar  from  mixed 
pickles,  previously  poured  upon  a  plate  in  small  quantities ;  lay 

8 


170  ENTREES. 


about  a  pound  of  the  meat  thus  prepared  upon  a  flat  dish,  pour 
a  wineglassful  of  water  over,  warm  it  through  in  the  oven,  or 
before  a  small  fire,  and  serve.  Another  way 'is,  after  having 
dipped  the  beef  in  pickles,  roll  them  in  flour  and  proceed  as 
above,  adding  double  the  quantity  of  water.  Another  way  is 
to  saut£  the  slices  with  a  little  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  have 
ready  some  nice  mashed  potatoes  very  hot,  lay  the  beef  over, 
and  serve. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal. — This  is  a  very  favorite  dish  of  mine.  It  is 
generally  considered  an  expensive  one,  but  the  way  in  which  I  do  it,  it  is 
not  so ;  besides  which,  it  gives  a  nice  piece  of  veal  at  table,  when  a  fillet 
would  be  too  large.  I  proceed  to  prepare  it  thus : 

411.  Having  the  fillet  prepared  with  the  bone  out  as  if  for 
roasting,  I  lay  it  on  a  board  with  the  skin  side  downwards,  and 
then  remove  (not  cutting  it)  that  part  of  the  outside  which  is 
separated  from  the  thick  fleshy  part  (in  France  called  "  la  noix") 
of  the  fillet  by  a  skin ;  I  then  place  my  hand  on  the  top  of  the 
thick  part,  and  cut  away  two  thirds  of  it,  leaving  an  inch  to  an 
inch  and  a  half  of  flesh  for  the  fillet.     I  then  take  a  chopper 
dipped  in  cold  water,  and  beat  the  veal  with  the  flat  part,  so  as 
to  make  it  of  an  equal  thickness ;  I  then  lard  it  (see  Larding). 
You  may  not  succeed  very  well  the  first  or  second  time,  but  now 
I  am  quite  an  artist  in  larding,  as  is  also  my  cook,  whom  I 
taught,  it  being  so  much  like  sewing.     But  should  you  not  be 
able  to  manage  it,  you  must  send  it  to  the  poulterer.     The  re- 
mains make  an  excellent  fillet  for  another  day's  dinner.  Having 
proceeded  thus  far,  I  then  cook  it  in  the  following  manner  : 

412.  I  take  a  stewpan  of  a  convenient  size,  and  lay  on  the 
bottom  six  or  eight  slices  of  bacon,  and  place  the  fricandeau  on 
them ;  I  then  take  two  onions,  two  small  carrots  cut  in  slanting 
pieces,  which  place  round  it ;  I  then  make  a  bouquet  of  ten 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  of  bay-leaf,  which  I  put  in 
with  two  cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  and  about  a  pint  of  broth 
or  water,  so  as  not  to  cover  the  larding ;  if  no  broth,  use  water 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire ;  when  on  the  point  of  boiling, 
put  it  in  a  slack  oven,  where  let  it  remain  for  two  or  three 
hours ;  be  careful  every  twenty  minutes  to  moisten  or  baste  the 
ft-icandeau  with  the  gravy  which  is  in  the  stewpan ;  the  slower 


ENTREES.  171 


it  is  done  the  better ;  ten  minutes  before  it  is  removed  from  the 
oven,  take  off  the  paper,  in  order  that  the  top  may  obtain  a  nice 
yellow  color  ;  if  tjie  oven  should  not  be  hot  enough,  place  live 
coals  on  the  lid  of  the  stewpan  until  done,  try  also  if  it  is  tender 
with  a  pointed  knife. 

This  dish  ought  to  be  carved  with  a  spoon,  being  so  tender ;  but  I  prefer 
to  cut  it  with  a  very  sharp  knife,  as  it  is  more  inviting  in  appearance. 
If  you  have  no  oven  ready,  stew  gently  on  a  hot  plate,  or  by  the  side 
of  the  stove,  with,  the  lid  on  and  live  coals  on  the  top.  If  you  let  it  burn 
by  any  neglect  or  accident,  do  not  tell  your  friends  that  I  gave  you  the 
receipt,  as  it  would  eat  so  very  bad,  and  I  should  lose  my  good  name. 
It  can  be  served  with  any  sauce  or  puree,  but  the  one  I  prefer  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Take  the  gravy  from  the  stewpan,  which  ought  to  be  about  half  a 
pint,  if  not  so  much  add  water,  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin, 
remove  the  fat  from  the  top,  put  it  into  a  small  stewpan,  reduce  it 
a  little  to  a  demi-glaze,  mix  half  a  teaspoonful  of  arrow-root  in  a  cup, 
with  a  little  water,  put  it  in  the  gravy,  boil  two  minutes ;  it  ought  to  be 
of  a  bright  yellow  color,  and  transparent ;  the  fricandeau  should  be 
served  with  gravy  under  it.  The  following  purees  are  excellent  to  serve 
with  it :  sorrel,  endive,  peas,  beans,  artichokes,  and  spinach ;  tomato, 
mushroom,  and  cucumber  sauces,  (fee.  If  a  piece  of  udder  can  be  pro- 
cured, stew  it  with  the  fricandeau,  and  serve  it  in  the  same  dish.  This 
receipt  will  weU  repay  the  trouble  attending  it.  The  following  is  very 
good,  and  more  simple. 


413.  Fricandeau  Bourgeoise,  in  its  Gravy. — Cut  as  before 
from  the  fillet,  cut  the  bacon  the  same  as  for  the  neck,  and  laid 
with  about  thirty  large  pieces,  but  in  a  slanting  direction,  leav- 
ing but  little  of  the  bacon  to  be  seen,  as  the  object  is  to  give  all 
the  advantage  of  the  bacon  to  the  meat ;  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  salt, 
and  one  tenth  of  that  of  pepper;  set  it  on  the  fire  for  five 
minutes,  turn  it  with  a  fork  round  and  round,  then  rake  some 
cinders  over  the  coals  or  charcoal  so  as  to  make  it  go  slow,  and 
until  it  becomes  of  a  nice  yellow  color;  then  add  a  gill  of 
water,  a  bay-leaf,  half  an  onion,  stew  until  quite  tender,  turning 
it  over  and  over  now  and  then ;  put  it  on  a  dish,  skim  the  fat 
off  the  gravy,  pour  it  over,  and  serve.  It  may  also  be  served 
thus :  by  throwing  into  the  stewpan  about  twenty  mushrooms, 
well  washed  about  ten  minutes  before  serving ;  if  the  gravy  is 
too  thin,  add  a  little  arrow-root,  and  serve :  it  can  also  be  served 
with  the  sauces  named  in  the  former  Receipt.  Nothing  is 


172  ENTREES. 


nicer  cold  than  this ;  if  required  to  be  re-warmed,  put  it  into  a 
little  broth  or  warm  water,  and  heat  slowly. 


414.  Coifs  Liver  saute. — Cut  it  into  slices,  put  a  little  but- 
ter in  the  saute-  or  frying-pan,  when  melted,  lay  the  liver 
in  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalot, 
parsley,  and  grated  nutmeg,  saute  on  a  sharp  fire,  when  rather 
brown  on  both  sides  dredge  a  tablespoonful  of  French  vinegar,  or 
a  glass  of  wine,  stir  it  well,  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes ;  dish  the 
liver  in  crowns ;  if  the  sauce  is  too  pale,  add  a  little  mushroom 
catsup  or  coloring,  and  it  had  better  be  too  thin  than  too  thick ; 
taste  if  well  seasoned,  and  serve :  the  above  is  for  about  two 
pounds  of  liver. 

415.  Coifs  Liver,  English  way. — Cut  the  liver  into  thin 
slices,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  put  in  a  saute  or  frying-pan  in 
which  some  slices  of  bacon  have  been  previously  cooked,  and 
have  left  sufficient  fat  in  it ;  saute  the  liver  until  quite  brown 
and  rather  crisp,  when  take  out  and  place  it  upon  a  dish  with 
the  bacon,  then  dredge  a  spoonful  of  flour  in  the  pan,  or 
enough  to  absorb  all  the  fat  in  it,  then  add  a  little  broth  or 
water  so  as  to  make  it  a  thinnish  sauce,  season  it,  and  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  Harvey's  sauce  or  mushroom  catsup.     If  the  above 
is  nicely  done,  and  the  pieces  cut  the  size  of  cutlets,  it  will 
make   a  nice  entree  for  an  ordinary  dinner.     It  should  be 
served  immediately,  and  very  hot. 


416.  Coifs  Liver,  dry. — The  same  may  be  served  dry  with 
the  bacon,  or  with  any  sharp  sauce. 

41 Y.  Calfs  Heart,  roasted. — Proceed  exactly  the  same  as 
for  ox's  heart,  only  this  being  more  delicate  and  smaller  requires 
less  time  to  roast,  from  half  an  hour  to  one  hour,  depending  on 
the  size ;  they  may  also  be  cut  in  slices  and  sauted  like  the 
liver  above ;  or,  by  having  four  for  a  large  dish  they  may  be 
dressed  exactly  like  the  liver  (No.  415),  but  white  instead  of 
brown ;  stuff  them  and  saute  white  in  butter,  which  depends 
on  a  slow  fire,  and,  adding  the  flour,  just  give  a  few  turns  and 
add  the  broth  immediately,  then  the  onions  and  mushrooms, 


ENTREES.  173 


season  as  described  in  the  liver,  stew  very  gently  for  one  hour, 
take  out  the  hearts,  skim  off  the  fat,  let  it  be  thickish,  boil 
down  a  little  if  required,  prepare  two  yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  milk,  broth,  or  water,  which  pour 
into  the  same,  stir  quick  for  half  a  minute,  add  the  juic3  of 
half  a  lemon,  trim  the  hearts,  dish  them  in  a  dish  with  the 
points  upwards,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

418.  Roast  Sweetbreads. — Take  the  sweetbreads  and  lay 
them  in  water  at  blood-heat,  to  disgorge,  for  three  to  four 
hours ;  then  blanch  them  for  two  minutes  in  boiling  water,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  few  slices  of  carrot,  onions,  turnip, 
a  little  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  six  peppercorns,  a  blade  of 
mace,  and  a  small  piece  of  bacon,  cover  over  with  a  little  broth 
or  water,  and  let  it  boil  for  twenty  minutes ;  take  them  out  and 
dry  them  in  a  cloth,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  tie  them  on  a 
spit,  and  roast  a  nice  brown  color  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes ;  or 
they  may  be  browned  in  an  oven,  or  fried  in  very  hot  lard  for 
ten  minutes,  in  which  case  they  should  stew  a  little  longer ; 
they  may  be  served  with  plain  gravy  and  a  piece  of  toasted 
bread  under,  or  a  little  melted  butter  and  some  Harvey's, 
Reading,  or  Soyer's  sauce,  and  a  little  catsup  added  to  it,  boiled 
arid  poured  round  it ;  or  with  any  of  the  sauces  fricandeau. 
The  heart-bread  being  generally  so  expensive,  I  seldom  make 
use  of  it,  but  it  may  be  blanched,  larded,  cooked,  and  served 
like  the  fricandeau,  diminishing  the  larding  and  cooking  ac- 
cording to  the  size  of  the  bread,  or  it  may  be  dressed  as  above, 
or,  if  a  large  throat-bread,  it  may  be  larded. 


419.  Sweetbreads  saute. — Blanch  two  throat-sweetbreads  as 
in  the  preceding  receipt,  cut  them  in  slices,  put  some  butter  in 
a  frying-pan,  and  melt ;  then  put  in  the  sweet-bread,  season 
over  with  salt,  pepper,  juice  of  a  lemon,  parsley,  and  bay-leaf; 
turn  them  until  done,  and  serve  very  hot,  with  maitre  d'hotel 
sauce  over. 


420.  Another  way. — Prepare  as  above ;  add  a  little  flour 
and  a  gill  of  broth,  a  few  raw  mushrooms,  stir  continually  to 
prevent  burning,  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream  and  serve ;  if 


1*74  ENTREES. 


any  remain,  do  them  au  gratin,  that  is,  put  them  in  a  pie-dish 
or  flat  plated  dish,  brown,  bread-crumb  over,  add  a  little  broth, 
put  into  an  oven,  and,  when  very  hot,  serve. 

421.    Veal  Cutlets  (old  English  method}.— See  No.  157. 


422.  Veal  Cutlets  aux  Fines  Herbes. — Cut  from  the  neck 
the  same  as  you  would  from  mutton,  only  of  course  larger ; 
sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  eschalot,  set  them  on  a 
gridiron  and  broil  like  common  chops,  serve  plain,  or  rub  a 
little  maitre  d'hotel  butter  over  them,  set  in  a  hot  place  for  a 
few  moments,  and  serve.  They  may  also  be  sauted,  by  putting 
them  into  a  saute-pan  and  saute  until  a  nice  color,  take  them 
out  and  put  in  the  pan  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions,  parsley, 
and  mushrooms  (if  handy),  stir  until  done,  then  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour ;  when  it  is  a  little  brown,  add  half  a  pint  of 
water,  two  spoonfuls  of  Harvey's  sauce  and  one  of  vinegar,  stir 
well  round,  dish  up  the  cutlets,  sauce  over  and  serve.  They 
may  also  be  larded  like  the  fricandeau,  and  served  in  the  same 
way,  and  with  the  like  sauces,  only  less  time  in  cooking. 


423.  Veal  Cutlets  en  papillate. — Prepare  as  the  last,  and 
put  them  in  a  pie-dish  and  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  let  them 
remain  until  cold ;  then  cut  a  sheet  of  foolscap  paper  in  the 
shape  of  a  heart,  and  oil  or  butter  it ;  lay  one  of  the  cutlets 
with  a  little  of  the  sauce  on  one  half  of  the  paper,  turn  the 
other  half  over,  then  turn  and  plait  the  edges  of  the  paper 
over,  beginning  at  the  top  of  the  heart  and  finishing  with  an 
extra  twist  at  the  bottom,  which  will  cause  the  sauce  to  remain 
in  it ;  broil  slowly  on  a  gridiron  for  twenty  minutes  on  a  very 
slow  fire,  or  place  it  in  the  oven  for  that  time,  and  serve. 


424.  Calf's  Ears  stewed. — If  you  make  mock  turtle  with 
half  a  calf's  head,  you  may  serve  the  ear ;  after  having  boiled  the 
head  as  for  mock  turtle,  cut  out  the  ear  (it  should  weigh  about 
half  a  pound),  lay  it  down  on  a  board  and  make  a  few  incisions 
through  the  thin  gristly  part  about  one  inch  long  ;  should  it 
require  a  little  more  doing,  put  it  in  the  soup ;  when  done, 


ENTREES.  175 

stand  it  on  the  dish  in  which  you  intend  to  serve  it,  turn  the 
top  of  the  ear  over  outside,  so  that  it  forms  a  round ;  if  any 
brain  to  spare,  put  a  piece  in  the  centre,  sauce  over  when  very- 
hot  with  parsley  and  butter,  tomato,  or  any  sharp  sauce,  arid 
serve ;  or,  instead  of  the  brain,  veal  stuffing  or  forcemeat  may 
be  used ;  egg  all  over,  bread-crumb,  put  in  an  oven  until  very 
hot  and  a  nice  yellow  color,  dish  and  serve  with  plain  gravy : 
or  it  may  be  served  with  any  sauce  or  ragout. 


425.  Made  Dish  from  Joints  that  have  been  previously 
served. — (If  from  braised  veal,  with  vegetables.)  Cut  it  into 
slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  put  the 
remainder,  vegetables  and  gravy,  if  any,  in  a  pan ;  if  not,  with 
water  and  a  piece  of  glaze ;  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
sugar,  a  bay-leaf,  and  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  simmer 
gently  for  twenty  minutes  on  a  slow  fire,  dish  the  fillets  in  the 
form  of  a  crown,  lay  the  vegetables  in  the  middle,  pour  gravy 
over,  and  serve.  Or,  what  remains,  cut  into  very  small  dice, 
leave  none  on  the  bones,  put  in  a  pan,  shake  a  little  flour  over, 
season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  bay-leaf,  and  the  juice 
of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  then  moisten  it  with  milk  sufficient  to 
make  a  sauce,  warm  it  for  ten  minutes,  add  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  stir  it  well,  and  serve  very  hot :  or,  if  you  prefer  it 
brown,  leave  out  the  milk  and  throw  a  few  chopped  mushrooms 
and  eschalots  in,  and  moisten  with  a  little  water,  to  which  add 
a  few  drops  of  browning,  or  a  little  catsup ;  it  ought  never  to 
be  too  thick.  Poached  eggs  may  be  served  with  these. 


426.  Calf's  Brains  fried. — Prepare  them  as  for  calf's  head  ; 
cut  them  in  pieces  of  about  two  inches  square,  dip  them  into 
batter,  and  fry  them  immersed  in  fat ;  serve  with  fried  parsley. 

427.  Calf's  Brains  a  la  Maitre  d*  Hotel. — Prepare  the  brain 
as  before,  warm  six  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter ;  when  hot,  add 
one  ounce  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and,  when  melted,  pour  it 
over. 

428.  Stewed   Calfs  Liver. — Choose  a  nice  fat  one  rather 


176  ENTREES. 


white  in.  color,  lard  it  through  with  bacon,  put  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  pan,  when  melted  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  keep  stirring  until  a  nice  yellow  color,  then  put  in  the 
whole  of  the  liver,  turn  round  now  and  then  until  it  is  a  little 
firm,  then  add  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  and  a  glass  of  any  kind 
of  wine,  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaves,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  sugar,  and  thirty  button  onions,  simmer  one  hour ;  take 
the  fat  off  and  the  bouquet  out,  dish  the  liver  with  the  onions 
around  it,  reduce  the  sauce,  so  that  it  adheres  lightly  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  sauce  over,  and  serve.  Any  vegetables  may 
be  used,  as  carrots,  turnips,  peas,  haricots ;  arid  if  a  little  gela- 
tine or  isinglass  is  added  to  the  sauce,  and  the  liver  with  the 
sauce  only  put  into  a  round  basin  and  pressed  down  and  left 
until  cold,  it  will  make  a  nice  dish  for  supper,  lunch,  or  break- 
fast. If  required  to  be  re-warmed,  cut  it  into  slices,  put  it  in  a 
pan,  with  a  drop  of  water  added  to  the  gravy. 


429.  Sheep's  Brains. — Proceed  as  for  calf's  brains :  these 
being  smaller  do  not  require  so  long  to  cook ;  though  very 
good,  they  are  not  so  delicate  as  calf's  brains. 

430.  Sheep's  Kidneys. — For  a  small  dish  procure  six  fresh 
ones,  take  off  the  thin  skin  which  covers  them,  and  cut  them 
into  slices,  put  in  a  saute-pan  one  ounce  of  butter,  when  melted 
and  nearly  brown,  add  the  kidneys,  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
mix  well  together,  add  half  a  wine-glass  of  sherry  and  a  gill  of 
broth,  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot ;  a  nice 
crisp   toast   placed  under  them  is  an  improvement ;    also,  a 
few  raw  mushrooms,  cut  in  slices,  added  when  being  sauted, 
are  excellent.     For  broiled  kidneys,  see  Breakfast.  .  They  can 
also  be  cut  in  half  and  cooked  the  same,  and  dished  in  a  crown 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes. 


431.  Sheep's  Feet  or  Trotters. — Previous  to  visiting  the  Conti- 
nent, I  had  quite  a  dislike  to  the  unfortunate  Pied  de  Mouton,  whose 
blackish  appearance  in  stall  and  basket  seemed  to  be  intended  to  satisfy 
the  ravenous  Appetites  of  the  gentlemen  with  the  slouched  hat.  But  I 
must  say  since  I  have  tasted  them  in  France,  cooked  a  la  poulette,  I 


ENTREES.  177 


have  become  of  quite  another  opinion,  and  I  have  prepared  them  at 
home  thus : — 

I  get  a  dozen  of  them  from  the  tripe-butcher,  all  cleaned  and 
ready,  and  beg  of  him  to  extract  the  long  bone  from  them.  I 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  or  mutton  suet  in  a  stewpan, 
with  two  onions  and  one  carrot  sliced,  two  bay-leaves,  two 
sprigs  of  thyme,  one  ounce  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
pepper,  put  on  the  fire,  and  cook  five  minutes ;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  it  round ;  add  two  quarts  and  a  half 
of  water,  then  put  in  the  feet,  stir  till  boiling,  simmer  for  nearly 
three  hours,  or  until  the  feet  are  perfectly  tender,  when  done, 
take  them  out,  and  lay  on  sieve,  take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  same  of  flour,  a  quarter 
of  one  of  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
mix  all  these  well  together  on  a  plate  with  the  back  of  a  spoon } 
put  the  feet  with  a  gill  of  milk  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  when 
very  hot,  put  in  the  butter,  stir  continually  till  melted,  having 
previously  well  mixed  two  yolks  of  eggs  with  five  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk  or  cream,  which  put  in  the  stewpan,  keep  moving  the 
pan  round  over  the  fire  continually  for  one  minute,  serve  in  a 
very  hot  dish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  cut  in  triangular 
pieces  round  the  dish.  The  stock  may  be  used  for  any  puree 
or  thick  soup. 

432.  French  Ragout  of  Mutton. — Take  about  two  pounds 
of  the  scrag  of  the  neck,  breast,  chump,  or  any  other  part,  with 
as  little  fat  as  possible,  cut  it  into  pieces  of  about  two  inches 
square,  put  into  a  pan  two  ounces  of  butter,  or  good  fat,  when 
melted,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon 
till  forming  a  brownish  roux,  add  the  meat,  and  stir  it  round  for 
twenty  minutes,  add  a  little  water,  but  not  enough  to  cover  the 
meat,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  four  ditto  of  salt,  and  four 
ditto  of  sugar,  a  bouquet  of  six  sprigs  of  parsley,  stir  till  boiling, 
set  it  to  simmer.  Having  previously  peeled  a  few  turnips,  cut 
in  large  dice  of  one  inch  square  about  thirty  pieces,  put  some 
fat  in  a  frying-pan,  and  fry  the  turnips  until  rather  brown,  take 
them  out,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  meat  when  it  is 
done,  which  will  be  in  about  one  hour  from  the  time  it  was  put 
on ;  when  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the  meat  and  turnips,  squeeze 
the  bouquet,  which  throw  away,  skim  off  the  fat,  if  too  thick, 


178  ENTREES. 


add  a  little  broth  or  water,  or,  if  too  thin,  boil  it  a  little  more, 
dish  it  up  by  placing  the  pieces  in  a  circle  and  the  turnips  in 
the  centre,  sauce  over,  and  serve  very  hot — if  not  it  is  spoilt. 
For  those  that  like  it,  a  small  piece  of  scraped  garlic  may  be 
added.  Onions,  carrots,  peas,  &c.,  may  be  used  in  place  of  the 
turnips. 

This  is  a  very  favorite  dish  in  France ;  I  learnt  it  from  an  old  French 
emigre,  who  used  to  visit  us  about  ten  years  since.  When  I  have  com- 
pany, I  use  the  chops  of  the  neck,  dress  them  in  a  crown,  placing  the 
vegetables  in  the  centre ;  I  find  them  very  much  liked.  I  have  at  some 
houses  partaken  of  harico-mutton  which  has  been  tolerably  good,  but 
nothing  in  flavor  to  this  plan.  If  there  is  any  left,  it  is  good  warmed 
again,  or  even  cold. 


433.  Irish  Stew. — Cut  up  about  two  pounds  of  the  neck  of 
the  mutton  into  small  cutlets,  which  put  into  a  proper  sized 
stewpan  with  some  of  the  fat  of  the  mutton,  season  with  three 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  half  an  ounce  of  pepper,  the  same  of  sugar,  six 
middle-sized  onions,  a  quart  of  water ;  set  them  to  boil  and  sim- 
mer for  half  an  hour,  then  add  six  middling-sized  potatoes,  cut 
therein  halves  or  quarters,  stir  it  together,  and  let  it  stew  gently 
for  about  one  hour  longer ;  if  too  fat  remove  it  from  the  top, 
but  if  well  done  the  potatoes  would  absorb  all,  and  eat  very 
delicate ;  any  other  part  of  the  mutton  may  be  served  in  the 

same  way.     I  hope  dearest ,  that  you  will  not  blame  my 

apparent  common  taste  in  saying  that  I  am  fond  of  an  Irish 
stew.  I  always  recommend  it  to  my  friends ;  I  often  add  a  bay- 
leaf  to  it,  which  varies  the  flavor. 


LETTER  No.  XIII. 

DEAREST  ELOISE, — I  certainly  here  must  avail  myself  of  M.  Soyer's 
kind  permission  by  taking  from  his '  Gastronomic  Regenerator'  a  very 
simple  receipt,  it  is  true,  but  one  which,  in  my  estimation,  has  a  great 
deal  more  merit  than  that  of  a  sumptuous  dish — a  new  mutton  chop ; 
yes,  dearest,  that  is  all.  Many  will  very  likely  laugh  at  me,  and  think 
I  am  joking  to  take  notice  of  a  dish  of  such  trifling  importance,  but,  in- 
deed, I  assure  you  that  I  am  far  from  that,  because  I  have  tried  it  for 
my  dinner  to-day,  and  in  my  opinion  it  is  as  far  superior  to  the  other  as 
silver  is  to  copper ;  and  it  was  only  in  an  enlightened  era  of  wonders 
like  ours  that  such  a  novelty  in  the  culinary  department  could  have 


ENTREES.  179 


been  produced ;  where  steam,  gas,  railways,  electric  light;  suspended 
bridges,  which  seem  to  fly  like  zephyrs  across  the  bosom  of  our  mighty, 
wealthy,  old  Father  Thames,  and  the  subterranean  promenade  under 
his  gutta-percha  bed,  where,  as  the  French  say,  the  fishes  from  their 
windows  make  faces  at  the  English  while  walking  below,  as  well  as  (and 
more  wonderful  still)  the  electric  telegraph,  which,  even  more  freely 
than  free-trade  itself,  carries  like  lightning  the  flashes  of  the  genius  of  a 
Cobden  from  our  great  commercial  town  of  Manchester  to  Printing- 
house  square  and  various  offices  the  sparks  of  a  speech,  which,  if  prin- 
ters were  careless,  might  set  the  paper  on  fire,  by  acquainting  the  me- 
tropolis not  only  of  his  love  for  freedom,  but  of  his  enthusiastic  action, 
motion,  commotion,  and  almost  his  thoughts ;  even  the  cheerings  of  the 
convives  are  actually  in  print,  and  read  with  the  greatest  anxiety  by  the 
multitude  in  town,  while  the  report  of  the  last  and  most  powerful  line 
just  put  to  press  is  still  roaring  with  echo  throughout  the  vast  cupola 
of  the  Free  Trade  Hall  as  well  as  hi  the  ears  of  thousands  of  guests 
present  who  have  been  favored  by  partaking  of  the  monster  banquet ; 
and  as  well,  but  not  so  wonderful,  the  invention,  insurrection,  and  demo- 
lition of  the  Chartists — the  last  effected  by  special  order  and  special 
constables ;  the  Satanic  bottle,  double  sight,  and  etherienne  suspension 
of  the  inimitable  Robert  le  Diable,  by  mistake  called  Rohert  Houdin ; 
Banvard's  Yankee  cabinet  picture,  3000  miles  long,  out  of  which  2999 
and  three  quarters  are  out  of  sight ;  more  so  than  all,  the  discovery  of 
rocky  dust,  called  gold,  in  the  barbarian  land  of  California,  where  the 
humble  and  convalescent  potato  would  be  worth  its  weight  of  the  pre- 
cious metal,  a  loaf  of  bread  three  times  as  much,  and  a  basin  of  poor 
man's  soup  a  guinea  instead  of  a  penny  as  here.  Have  we  not  also  heard 
of  the  great  sea  serpent,  which  a  very  serious  American,  who  appears 
to  have  been  in  company  with  him,  says  that  he  was  so  tarnation  long, 
that  whilst  engaged  in  dining  out  upon  4000  or  5000  turtles  in  Hon- 
duras, the  end  of  his  tail  was  at  the  same  time  hunting  the  white  bear 
in  the  crystallized  mountains  of  the  North  Pole  for  his  supper,  being 
something  of  an  epicure,  and  consequently  fond  of  a  change  ?  These, 
dearest,  are  FACTS  that  no  one  can  deny,  "  I  guess ;"  and  still  it  was  to  be 
among  all  these  marvellous  wonders  that  the  innovation  of  a  new  mutton 
chop  should  emanate  from  the  brain  of  a  simple  individual,  while,  for 
a  century  previous,  the  ancestors  of  our  great  grandfathers  were,  as  we 
were  till  the  present  day,  often  obliged  to  satisfy  their  voracious  appe- 
tite with  a  fat  and  clumsy  mutton  chop.  Even  now,  dear,  you  will 
hardly  be  able  to  comprehend  the  meaning  of  my  enthusiasm  for  this 
simple  innovation :  it  is  then  for  its  great  simplicity  and  cheapness,  and 
that  if  in  general  use  (as  I  sincerely  hope  it  will  be),  thousands  will  be 
able  to  partake  of  it  and  enjoy  it,  and  probably  will  keep  a  friendly  re- 
membrance of  the  name  of  its  inventor,  because  any  one  who  invents,  or 
tries  so  to  do,  attempts  to  conquer  the  greatest  difficulty  to  obtain  fame 
and  wealth,  and  which  by  others  is  always  envied  aud  tried  to  be  sur- 
passed ;  such  is  the  world.  While  here,  the  humble,  unassuming,  disin- 
terested inventor  of  the  said  mutton  chop  will  not  even  have  the  honor 
of  opposition,  though  he  may  be  copied.  Believe  me,  dearest,  that  is 
the  only  cause  of  my  admiration.  Now  for  this  wonder. 


180  ENTREES. 


434.  Soyer's  New  Mutton  Chop. — Trim  a  middling-sized 
saddle  of  mutton,  which  cut  into  chops* half  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness with  a  saw,  without  at  all  making  use  of  a  knife  (the  saw- 
ing them  off  jagging  the  meat  and  causing  them  to  eat  more 
tender),  then  trim  them  to  the  shape  represented  in  the  draw- 
ing, season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  them  upon  a  grid- 
iron over  a  sharp  fire,  turning  them  three  or  four  times ;  they 
would  require  ten  minutes  cooking ;  when  done,  dress  them 
upon  a  hot  dish,  spread  a  small  piece  of  butter  over  each  (if  ap- 
proved of),  and  serve  :  by  adding  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
Soyer's  Gentlemen's  or  Ladies'  Sauce  to  each  chop  when  serv- 
ing, and  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times,  produces  an  excel- 
lent entree ;  the  bone  keeping  the  gravy  in  whilst  cooking,  it 
is  a  very  great  advantage  to  have  chops  cut  after  the  above 
method.  At  home,  when  I  have  a  saddle  of  mutton,  I  usually 
cut  two  or  three  such  chops,  which  I  broil,  rub  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  over,  and  serve  with  fried  potatoes  round,  using  the  re- 
mainder of  the  saddle  the  next  day  for  a  joint.  The  above  are 
also  very  excellent,  well  seasoned  and  dipped  into  egg  and 
bread-crumbs  previous  to  broiling.  Lamb  chops  may  be  cut 
precisely  the  same,  but  require  a  few  minutes  less  broiling. 

You  must  remark  that,  by  this  plan,  the  fat  and  lean  are  better  di- 
vided, and  you  can  enjoy  both ;  whilst  the  other  is  a  lump  of  meat  near 
the  bone  and  fat  at  the  other  end,  which  partly  melts  in  cooking,  and 
is  often  burnt  by  the  flame  it  makes ;  the  new  one  not  being  divided  at 
the  bone,  keeps  the  gravy  in  admirably.  If  well  sawed  it  should  not 
weigh  more  than  the  ordinary  one,  being  about  half  the  thickness.  Do 
try  them,  and  let  me  know  your  opinion. 

Ever  yours,  HORTENSE. 


ENTREES.  181 


LETTER  No.  XIV. 

DEAR  HOIITENSE, — Yours  of  last  night  was  received  at  our  supper- 
table,  which  was  surrounded  by  a  few  of  our  best  friends,  and  I  need 
not  tell  you  the  merriment  it  has  created  respecting  your  fantastic  ideas 
of  this  age  of  wonders.  A  very  sedate  old  gentleman,  who  happened 
to  have  met  you  at  Mr.  H.'s  party  about  a  week  or  two  ago,  and  wished 
to  be  very  courteous  to  you,  and  perhaps  you  did  not  notice  his  compli- 
ments, not  only  would  he  not  give  a  smile  to  our  hearty  laugh,  but  ac- 
tually swore  that  such  comical  nonsense  was  very  dangerous  to  expose 
before  the  public,  and  especially  if  we  intended  to  give  publicity  to  it 
with  the  Receipts,  the  last  of  which  he  very  much  approved  of.  But 
respecting  your  fun  on  the  review  of  our  century, — "  A  woman,"  said 
he,  "  ought  never  to  interfere  with  politics  !"  "  Politics !"  we  all  ex- 
claimed, "  where  do  you  see  anything  political  in  it  ?"  "  In  almost 
every  word,"  replied  he.  "  But  in  what  part  ?"  said  we ;  "  explain  your- 
self." Unfortunately  our  hero  stuttered  very  much.  "  Now,  it-it-it  is  not 
one  of-of-of  you  here,  perhaps,  who-who-who  a-a-a-ve  been  in  ann-y-pu- 
pu-public  office  like  me  in  ma-ma-my  youth.  I  was  cla-cla-cla-clerk  of 
the  second  cla-cla-clerk  of  the  first  cla-cla-cla-clerk  of  the  private  secre- 
tary's cla-cla-cla-clerk  of  the  Home  of-of-of "  Here,  dear,  we  all 

burst  out  laughing,  which  made  the  old  gentleman  so  mad  that  he 
rushed  from  the  room  into  the  passage,  to  the  street-door,  and  out  of 
the  house,  without  his  hat,  Welsh  wig,  great  coat,  and  umbrella,  while 
the  servant  had  a  regular  race  to  get  hold  of  him.  She  at  last  found 
him  talking  to  himself  under  one  of  our  willow-trees  in  the  garden, 
coming  back  for  his  tackle  with  his  two  hands  over  his  red  wig,  and  his 
thick  head  underneath.  Being  a  wet  night,  after  inquiring  of  the  ser- 
vant what  he  had  said  to  her — "  Ma-ma-ma-rie,"  said  he,  "  you  are  a  ve- 
ve-ve-very  good  girl  indeed,  very  good  girl,  and  I-I-I-I  am  ve-ve-ve-very 
sorry  I  have  no  money  with  me  to  gi-gi-gi-gi-give  you  something  for 
your  trouble,  especially  as  you  will  ne-ne-ne-never  see  me  here  again, 
no,  ne-ne-never."  "  Never  mind,  sir,  about  the  money,"  said  she  to  him, 
"  I  am  no  more  disappointed  than  usual.  Good  night,  sir."  "  Mary, 
you  are  a  ve-ve-very  sau-saucy  huzzy,  a  ve-very  saucy  huzzy,"  was  his 
answer.  He  then  gradually  disappeared  in  the  fog.  In  a  few  seconds 
after,  she  heard  some  one  sneezing  most  fearfully  in  the  direction  he 
was  gone,  which  she  believed  to  be  our  stuttering  friend.  So,  you  see, 
dear,  there  is  quite  an  event  on  a  mutton  chop.  But  let  me  tell  you 
that,  though  your  receipt  came  rather  late,  we  still  had  some  for  sup- 
per, and  very  good  they  were ;  every  one  was  delighted  with  them ;  in 
fact,  we  did  not  eat  hardly  anything  else,  being  so  comically  introduced 
to  us.  I  had  them  brought  up  at  three  different  times  broiling  hot  from 
the  gridiron.  I  made  twelve  chops  out  of  a  middle-sized  saddle  of 
mutton,  weighing  about  seven  pounds :  is  that  right  ?  and  I  have  about 
three  pounds  of  chump  remaining,  which,  of  course,  I  intend  making 
broth,  Irish  stew,  or  pies  with.  But,  dearest,  let  us  go  through  the 
remainder  of  the  Receipts  without  any  more  interruption. 

My  husband  begs  to  be  kindly  remembered  to  you  both.  Ever  yours, 

ELOISE. 


182 


ENTREES. 


435.  Mutton  Cutlets. — Trim  a  neck  of  mutton  by  cutting 
away  the  scrag  and  sawing  off  three  inches  of  the  rib-bone, 
then  cut  about  ten  cutlets  out  of  the  neck,  shape  them  by 
chopping  off  the  thick  part  of  the  chine-bone,  beat  them  flat  to 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  with  a  cutlet-chopper, 
dipped  in  cold  water,  detach  an  inch  of  fat  from  the  top  of  the 
rib-bone,  and  trim  it  like  the  following  cut,  season  with  a  little 


ENTREES.  183 


salt  and  pepper,  then  well  beat  up  one  egg,  dip  a,  brush  into 
it,  and  rub  it  lightly  over  the  chop,  dip  it  into  bread-crumbs, 
form  it  into  shape  again,  and  dress  in  the  following  ways  : — 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan  or  very  clean  ome- 
lette-pan, melt  it,  and  put  the  cutlets  in ;  put  it  on  the  fire  for 
five  minutes  till  it  is  of  a  nice  yellow  color ;  turn  them,  let  them 
remain  four  minutes  longer,  try  if  they  are  done  by  pressing 
with  the  finger,  they  ought  to  be  firm  and  full  of  gravy ;  lay 
them  on  a  clean  cloth,  and  dress  them  in  the  form  of  a  crown, 
that  is,  by  keeping  the  thick  part  at  the  bottom,  and  the  scraped 
part  of  the  bone  at  the  top,  and  each  one  resting  half-way  on 
the  other.  Every  dish  of  cutlets  must  be  served  thus. 


436.  Cutlets  with  Mushrooms. — If  for  ten  or  twelve  cutlets 
take  about  twenty  fresh  mushrooms,  cut  off  the  tails,  wash 
them,  and  dry  on  a  cloth,  put  two  pats  of  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
half  a  gill  of  water,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  little  salt  and  pep- 
per, set  on  the  fire ;  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  when  very  hot  add  a  liaison  of  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  made  as  follows  : 

Put  the  yolk  in  a  cup,  and  mix  well  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk,  stir  well  for  one  minute,  put  it  in  the  middle  of  your 
pan,  if  no  white  sauce,  add  a  little  milk  to  the  mushrooms,  and 
mix  a  little  flour  with  half  a  pat  of  butter,  and  put  it  in,  keep 
stirring  until  boiling ;  dish  up  the  cutlets,  add  the  liaison,  and 
serve ;  or  still  plainer,  take  the  same  number  of  mushrooms, 
wash  well,  cut  in  thin  slices,  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  pats 
of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  water ;  stew  gently  for  ten  minutes, 
serve,  pouring  the  sauce  over,  or  in  the  middle  of  the  cutlets. 

They  can  be  served  as  cutlets  a  la  jardiniere,  with  peas,  with 
tomatoes,  with  artichokes,  with  spinach,  a  la  poiverade,  a  la 
sauce  piquante,  with  Brussels  sprouts,  and  a  la  Soubise. 


437.  Cutlets  a  la  Maitre  d1  Hotel. — When  the  cutlets  are 
done,  dish  them  up,  put  two  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  in 
a  clean  sautfe-pan,  keep  it  moving  until  melted  :  put  two  spoon- 
fuls of  cream  when  very  hot,  pour  over,  and  serve  with  fried 
potatoes  in  the  middle. 


184  ENTREES. 


438.  Cutlets,  plainer  way. — Cut  them  from  the  neck,  beat 
them  down  roughly  without  trimming,  put  them  on  the  grid- 
iron, when  warm  through,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  very  fine  chopped 
onions,  turn  several  times,  they  will  take  about  ten  minutes 
broiling ;  dish  very  hot,  and  serve.  They  may  also  be  served 
on  very  white  mashed  potatoes. 


439.  Sheep's  Tongue,  Demi- Glaze. — For  one  dish,  take  six, 
put  them  in  water  to  disgorge,  then  dry  them,  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  two  onions,  half  a  large  carrot,  a  bouquet  of  two 
bay-leaves,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  a  quart  of  broth  if  handy,  or 
water,  half  a  spoonful  of  salt,  put  them  on  to  boil,  and  sim- 
mer for  two  hours  till  done ;  try  if  tender  with  a  pointed  knife, 
if  so  take  them  out,  skin  them,  trim  out  all  the  roots,  cut  the 
tongue  in  two,  lengthwise,  giving  it  a  little  of  the  shape  of  cut- 
lets, skim  the  fat  from  the  stock,  reduce  the  whole  or  part  to  a 
demi-glaze,  put  your  pieces  on  a  dish,  when  ready  to  serve, 
make  a  thin  roll  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  dish  them  round  it, 
add  a  little  sugar  to  the  demi-glaze,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
stir  round  till  melted,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  pour  boil- 
ing hot  over  the  tongue,  the  sauce  ought  to  adhere  thickly  to 
the  back  of  the  spoon.  Observe,  dear,  how  cheaply  this  dish 
may  be  procured,  and  I  assure  you  it  is  very  excellent :  I  have 
tried  it  with  almost  all  the  sauces  I  have  described  for  cutlets, 
and  have  found  it  good  with  all ;  they  are  also  very  good  in 
papillote,  like  veal  cutlets. 


440.  Sheep's  Hearts. — Proceed  exactly  as  with  the  calf's 
heart,  only  diminish  the  time  of  cooking  in  proportion  to  the 
size,  about  thirty  minutes  will  be  sufficient ;  serve  with  any 
kind  of  sharp  sauce  or  any  ragout  of  vegetables. 


DISHES  WITH  THE  REMAINS  OF  LAMB. 

441.  Mince  Lamb. — (See  Veal.)     Serve  with  poached  eggs 
over. 


442.  Remains  of  roast  or  boiled  Lamb  with  Peas.. — Cut  up 


ENTREES.  1 85 


about  two  pounds,  bones  included,  in  rather  small  pieces,  put 
into  a  convenient-sized  stewpan,  add  to  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
flour,  one  of  chopped  onions,  one  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pep- 
per, half  a  pint  of  water,  stir  gently  until  near  boiling,  add  one 
bay-leaf,  and  one  pint  of  very  green  peas  already  boiled,  sim- 
mer and  serve.  Half  an  hour  is  sufficient  to  prepare  this  dish  ; 
peas  left  from  a  previous  day  can  be  used,  also  cauliflower  if 
not  too  much  broken,  and  gently  simmered,  also  a  few  mush- 
rooms, or  if  no  vegetables,  add  a  little  liaison,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon. 

443.  Lamb's  Feet  are  much   more   delicate   than   sheep's 
trotters,  but  they  are  cooked  and  dressed  the  same,  only  in  less 
time.     If  there  are  any  left  cold,  cut  them  in  two,  put  them  in 
a  basin,  pour  over  a  glass  of  vinegar,  half  of  ditto  of  oil,  one 
onion  sliced,  salt,  pepper,  fry  them  for  twenty  minutes,  dip  each 
piece  in  a  batter,  and  fry  a  nice  yellow  color  in  fat ;  serve  on  a 
napkin. 

444.  LamVs  Heart. — Six  will  make  a  nice  dish ;  stuff  like 
calf's  heart,  only  adding  to  it  some  bits  of  ham  or  red  tongue ; 
stew  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  sauce. 


445.  Lamb  Cutlets. — Ten  cutlets  would  be  sufficient  for  a 
dish,  and  might  be  cut  from  one  neck,  as  described  for  mutton 
cutlets  (page  182),  but  leaving  them  as  large  as  possible ;  that 
is,  about  one  third  less  than  the  mutton,  season  them  lightly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them  over,  after- 
wards beating  them  gently  with  a  knife,  to  put  them  again 
into  shape ;  then  have  a  little  clarified  butter  upon  a  plate,  into 
which  dip  each  cutlet  separately,  afterwards  throwing  them  into 
bread-crumbs,  giving  them  another  coat,  and  beat  again.  Then 
if  wanted  of  a  very  nice  color,  put  four  spoonfuls  of  salad  oil  into 
a  saute-pan,  lay  in  the  cutlets  and  set  them  over  a  sharp  fire, 
turning  when  required,  six  or  eight  minutes  would  be  sufficient 
to  do  them  nicely  ;  when  done,  lay  them  upon  a  cloth  a  moment 
to  drain,  glaze,  and  dish  them  in  crown  upon  your  dish,  and 
serve  with  cucumbers  stewed  in  the  centre. 

Lamb  cutlets  may  also  be  served  with  stewed  peas,  French 


186  ENTREES. 


beans,  spinach,  asparagus  points,  sauce  jardiniere,  reforme, 
poiverade,  piquante,  or  maitre  d'hotel,  which  will  be  found  in 
the  series  of  sauces,  or  lamb  cutlets  may  be  broiled  instead 
of  fried,  or  served  a  la  Maintenon,  as  directed  for  veal  cut- 
lets. 


446.  Lamb  Chops. — Select  a  fine  loin  of  lamb  with  the 
kidney  in  it,  trim  off  the  flap,  and  with  a  very  sharp  knife  cut 
your  chops  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
cutting  about  eight  chops  from  the  loin,  three  of  which  should 
have  a  piece  of  the  kidney  attached.     I  also  cut  two  chops 
from  the  chump,  which  are  very  excellent  eating,  although 
clumsier  in  shape.     Lay  three  of  them  upon  a  gridiron  over  a 
rather  brisk  but  very  clear  fire,  for  if  smoky  it  would  entirely 
spoil  the  look  and  flavor  of  the  lamb ;  and  when  just  warmed 
through,  season  upon  each  side  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
a  quarter  of  that  quantity  of  pepper ;  broil  of  a  nice  yellow 
color,  and  serve  with  fried  parsley  over  if  convenient.     Or  lay 
some  nice  mashed  potatoes  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  the  chops 
upon  it. 

447.  Lamb  Chops  in  paper,  with  fine  herbs. — Cut  a  piece 
of  foolscap  paper  in  the  shape  of  a  heart  (and  sufficiently  large 
to  fold  a  lamb  chop  in),  rub  a  little  oil  over  the  paper,  then 
season  the  chop  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots,  one 
of  chopped  parsley,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg, 
wrap  the  chop  in  the  paper,  which  plait  down  at  the  edges,  lay 
it  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  it  frequently ;  it  will 
take  about  twenty  minutes  to  broil  properly,  when  done  serve 
in  the  paper  very  hot. 

448.  Lamb  Chop  saute. — Put  a  piece  of  butter  into  a  clean 
saute-  or  frying-pan,  and  when  melted  lay  in  a  chop  rather 
highly  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ;  fry  it  until  thoroughly 
done  and  but  lightly  browned,  and  serve.     Should  gravy  be 
required,  pour  off  the  greater  part  of  the  fat,  and  then  stir  in 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add  a  gill  of  broth  or  water,  and 
a  little  coloring ;  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon,  boiling  five  minutes, 
finish  with  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter  and  the  juice  of  half  a 


ENTREES.  187 


lemon ;  shake  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the  sauce  becomes 
rather  thick,  when  pour  over  and  serve. 


449.  Pork  Cutlets. — Choose  a  small  neck,  cut  eight  cutlets 
out  of  it  of  the  same  shape  as  the  mutton,  only  leaving  a  little 
more  fat  on  it,  season,  egg  and  bread-crumb,  fry  in  pan,  serve 
with  either  sauces  Robert,  poiverade,  piquante,  tartare. 

450.  Pork  Cutlets  with  Pickle. — Saute,  broil  or  fry,  the 
chops,  as  in  the  preceding ;  make  about  a  gill  of  melted  but- 
ter, add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liquor  of  piccalilly,  and  six 
or  eight  pieces  of  the  pickle  cut  small ;  when  very  hot  put  on 
your  dish,  and  dress  your  cutlets  over,  or  if  for  a  large  dish, 
dress  cutlets  in  a  crown,  and  sauce  in  the  middle. 


451.  Pork  Cutlets  saute. — Cut  six  or  eight  good-sized  cut- 
lets from  the  neck  of  the  same  shape  as  the  mutton,  lay  them 
in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  place 
over  the  fire ;  when  done  lay  them  upon  a  plate,  pour  some  of 
the  fat  from  the  saute-pan,  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  chop- 
ped onions,  pass  over  the  fire  a  minute,  then  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  flour ;  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  with  a 
piece  of  glaze  added,  season  a  little  more,  add  a  bay-leaf  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  with  one  of  mustard,  mix  well,  lay  in 
the  cutlets  unti)  quite  hot,  when  dress,  upon  a  dish,  sauce  over, 
and  serve.     This  sauce  is  good  with  any  kind  of  cutlets,  but 
especially  pork. 

452.  Pork  Cutlets  aux  Cornichons. — Cut  six  or  eight  cut- 
lets from  a  middling-sized  neck  of  pork,  season  well  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  dip  in  eggs  well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  and  then 
into  grated  crust  of  bread  (not  too  brown)  put  two  ounces  of 
lard  or  butter  into  a  saute-or  frying-pan,  lay  in  the  cutlets  and 
fry  very  slowly ;  when  done  place  them  upon  a  dish ;  keep  hot, 
pour  some  of  the  fat  from  the  pan,  add  a  good  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  mix  well,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water  with 
a  piece  of  glaze,  add  half  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  six  gherkins  in  slices,  place  the  cutlets  in  the  pan 
to  warm  gently  in  the  sauce,  then  dress  them  uuon  a  dish, 
sauce  over,  and  serve. 


188  ENTREES. 


453.  Pork  Cutlets  sauce  demi-Robert. — Cut  eight  cutlets 
from  a  neck  as  before,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  sprinkle 
chopped  onions  and  parsley  over  upon  both  sides,  beating  the 
cutlets  lightly  to  make  them  adhere,  then  dip  them  into  eggs 
well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  and  then  into  bread-crumbs;  pat 
them  lightly,  have  some  clarified  butter  in  a  stewpan,  into 
which  dip  the  cutlets,  and  again  into  bread-crumbs,  well  cover- 
ing them,  place  them  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire, 
broiling  a  nice  light  brown  color ;  when  done  dress  them  upon 
a  dish ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  cut  two  large  onions 
into  very  small  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of 
butter,  fry  of  a  light  yellow  color,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
mix  well,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  and  a  spoonful  of 
vinegar,  season  well,  let  boil,  skim  and  reduce  until  rather  thick, 
wrhen  add  a  spoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  a  little  coloring ;  sauce 
in  the  centre  of  the  cutlets  and  serve. 


454.  Excellent  Sausage  Cakes. — Chop  some  lean  pork  very 
fine,  having  previously  detached  all  the  skin  and  bone,  and  to 
every  pound  of  meat  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fat 
bacon,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of   pepper,  the 
quarter  of  a  nutmeg  grated,  six  young  green  chopped  onions, 
and  a  little  chopped  parsley ;  when  the  whole  is  well  chopped 
put  into  a  mortar  and  pound  well,  finishing  with  three  eggs ; 
then  have  ready  a  pig's  caul,  which  cut   into  pieces  large 
enough  to  fold  a  piece  of  the  above  preparation  the  size  of  an 
egg,  which  wrap  up,  keeping  the  shape  of  an  egg,  but  rather 
flattened,  and  broil  very  gently  over  a  moderate  fire. 

455.  Pigs'  Feet. — Procure  six  pigs'  feet  nicely  salted,  which 
boil  in  water,  to  which  you  have  added  a  few  vegetables,  until 
well  done,  cut  each  one  in  halves,  take  out  the  long  bone,  have 
some  sausage-meat  as  in  the  last,  and  a  pig's  caul,  which  cut 
into  pieces  each  large  enough  to  fold  half  a  foot,  well  sur- 
rounded with  sausage-meat,  when  well  wrapped  up  broil  slowly 
half  an  hour  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  serve.     Or,  when  the 
pig's  feet  are  well  boiled,  egg  over,  and  throw  them  into  some 
grated  crust  of  bread,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  little  pars- 
ley, broil  a  nice  color  and  serve  with  a  little  plain  gravy.     This 
is  called  a  la  Ste.  Menehould. 


ENTREES.  189 


456.  Pig's  Kidneys. — Cut  them  open  lengthwise,  season 
well  with  pepper  and  salt,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  dip  into 
bread-crumbs,  with  which  you  have  mixed  some  chopped 
parsley  and  eschalot,  run  a  skewer  through  to  keep  them  open, 
and  broil  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  over  a  good  fire ; 
when  done  place  them  upon  a  dish,  have  ready  an  ounce  of 
butter,  with  which  you  have  mixed  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  French  or  common 
mustard,  place  a  piece  upon  each  of  the  kidneys,  place  in  the 
oven  for  one  minute,  and  serve.  Pig's  kidneys  may  also  be 
sauted  as  directed  for  ox  kidneys. 


457.  Hashed  Pork. — Put  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar,  two  cloves,  a 
blade  of  mace,  and  a  bay-leaf,  reduce  to  half,  take  out  the 
spice  and  bay-leaf,  add  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  cut  some 
pork  previously  cooked  into  thin  small  slices,  season  well  upon 
a  dish  with  pepper  and  salt,  shake  a  good  teaspoonful  of  flour 
over,  mix  all  together,  and  put  into  the  stewpan ;  let  simmer 
gently  ten  minutes,  pour  out  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  with 
slices  of  gherkins  in  it;  a  little  mustard  may  be  added  if 
approved  of,  or  a  little  piccalilly  with  the  vinegar  is,  excellent. 

The  remains  of  salt  pork,  though  very  palatable  cold,  if 
required  hot  may  be  cut  into  large  thin  slices,  and  placed  in  a 
buttered  saute-  or  frying-pan,  with  a  little  broth,  or  merely 
fried  in  the  butter,  and  served  with  a  puree  of  winter  peas, 
made  by  boiling  half  a  pint  of  peas  until  tender  (tied  up  in  a 
cloth) ;  when  done  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces 
of  butter ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  a  gill  of  milk  or 
cream,  pour  into  the  dish,  and  dress  the  pork  over. 

It  may  also  be  cut  into  thin  slices  and  put  into  a  soup  plate, 
and  pour  some  catsup  or  Harvey  sauce  over  it,  and  let  it  remain 
for  half  an  hour ;  butter  the  inside  of  a  pudding  basin,  and 
lay  some  of  the  remains  of  peas  pudding  round  it,  and  then 
place  in  the  pork,  cover  it  with  some  of  the  pudding,  place  it 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water  to  get  hot  for  about  half  an 
hour,  and  then  turn  it  out  and  serve.  Should  you  not  have 
quite  pork  enough,  you  may  make  it  up  with  a  little  sausage- 
meat,  or  any  other  kind  of  meat. 


190  ENTREES. 


458.  Fritadella  (twenty  receipts  in  one). — Put  half  a  pound 
of  crumb  of  bread  to  soak  in  a  pint  of  cold  water,  take  the 
same  quantity  of  any  kind  of  roast  or  boiled  meat,  with  a  little 
fat,  chop  it  up  like  sausage  meat,  then  put  your  bread  in  a 
clean  cloth,  press  it  to  extract  all  the  water,  put  into  a  stewpan 
two  ounces  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions,  fry 
for  two  minutes,  then  add  the  bread,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  rather  dry,  then  add  the  meat,  season  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  half  the  same  of  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  the 
same  of  lemon  peel,  stir  continually  until  very  hot ;  then  add 
two  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  well  mix  together,  and  pour  on  a  dish 
to  get  cold.  Then  take  a  piece  as  big  as  a  small  egg,  and  roll 
it  to  the  same  shape,  flatten  it  a  little,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
over,  keeping  the  shape,  do  all  of  it  the  same  way,  then  put 
into  a  saute-pan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard,  or  clean  fat,  or 
oil ;  when  hot,  but  not  too  much  so,  put  in  the  pieces,  and 
saute  a  veiy  nice  yellow  color,  and  serve  very  hot,  plain,  on  a 
napkin,  or  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  with  any  sauce  or 
garniture  you  fancy.  These  can  be  made  with  the  remains  of 
any  kind  of  meat,  poultry,  game,  fish,  and  even  vegetables ; 
hard  eggs  or  cold  mashed  potatoes  may  be  introduced  in  small 
quantities,  and  may  be  fried  instead  of  sauted,  in  which  case  put 
about  two  pounds  of  fat  in  the  frying-pan,  and  if  care  is  used 
it  will  do  several  times.  This  is  an  entirely  new  and  very 
economical  and  palatable  dish,  and  fit  for  all  seasons,  and  if 
once  tried  would  be  often  repeated ;  the  only  expense  attending 
it  is  the  purchase  of  a  small  wire  sieve  for  the  bread-crumbs. 
The  reason  I  call  it  twenty  receipts  in  one  is,  that  all  kinds  of 
food  may  be  used  for  it,  even  shrimps,  oysters,  and  lobsters. 


459.  Ramifolle. — These  are  a  little  more  expensive  than  the 
fritadella,  and  worthy  the  table  of  a  crowned  head.  The  flesh 
of  fowls  instead  of  lamb  or  veal,  with  the  addition  of  one  or 
two  fat  livers  cut  in  dice.  Proceed  as  in  the  former  receipt, 
using  the  crumb  of  French  rolls,  and  one  or  two  truffles 
chopped  fine :  then  make  some  pancake  batter,  and  saute  two 
pancakes  about  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  cover  one  with  the 
meat,  <fec.,  and  lay  the  other  over,  and  put  by  until  cold ;  when 
so  cut  them  to  any  shape  you  like,  but  if  like  cutlets  add  the 
small  bone  of  fowl  or  pigeon,  or  the  stalk  of  a  sprig  of  parsley, 


ENTREES.  191 


egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  and  saute  them  in  oil  or  lard  of  a 
nice  yellow  color,  and  dish  them  like  cutlets,  with  any  of  the 
sauces  or  garnitures  described  for  mutton  cutlets ;  or  if  plain, 
with  fried  parsley.  They  may  be  made  of  any  kind  of  meat, 
fish,  or  poultry.  I  have  latterly  had  them  sent  up  to  table 
when  we  have  had  a  few  friends,  and  they  have  been  very  much 
liked ;  and,  on  inquiring  the  name,  I  baptized  them  Ramifolle, 
without  any  particular  meaning,  which  name  having  pleased  as 
much  as  the  dish,  therefore  let  them  be  called  Ramifolles. 

They  may  be  made  a  plainer  way  with  various  meats  or  liver, 
and  spread  over  one  pancake,  which  roll  over,  and  when  cold 
cut  it  into  three  equal  lengths,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  saute  as 
above. 

460.  Prussian  Cutlets. — Take  a  piece  of  veal,  say  one  pound, 
from  any  part  of  the  cal£  as  long  as  you  extract  the  nerve, 
with  a  little  fat,  chop  it  up,  but  not  too  fine,  add  to  it  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalot,  one  of  salt,  half  a  one  of  pepper, 
little  grated  nutmeg,  chop  it  a  little  more,  and  make  it  into 
pieces  of  the  size  of  two  walnuts,  which  give  the  shape  of  a 
cutlet ;  egg  and  bread-crumb  each,  keeping  the  shape ;  insert 
a  small  bone  at  the  small  end,  saute  in  fat,  oil,  lard,  or  butter, 
give  it  ten  minutes  on  a  slow  fire  till  a  nice  brown  color,  dish 
and  serve,  with  demi-glaze  sauce,  in  which  you  have  put  a 
spoonful  of  Harvey's,  and  serve  with  any  brown  or  white 
sauce  or  stewed  vegetables  you  like.  Any  kind  of  meat  may 
be  used. 


461.  Cutlets  a  la  Victime,or  Victimized  Cutlets. — Here,  ma 
belle  amie,  is  a  terrific  title  for  a  receipt,  but  do  not  fear  it,  as  the  time 
of  the  Inquisition  is  past,  and  you  are  not  likely  to  become  one  in  par- 
taking of  it.  I  do  not  recommend  it  to  you  on  the  score  of  economy,  as 
it  is  the  tip-top  of  extravagance ;  but  forward  it  as  a  curiosity,  and  also 
in  case  similar  circumstances  should  happen  which  caused  its  invention, 
which,  you  must  know,  was  done  by  a  culinary  artist  of  Louis  XVIII. 
of  France,  at  the  palace  of  the  Tuileries,  and  first  partaken  of  by  this 
intellectual  monarch  and  gourmet,  who,  at  the  end  of  his  stormy  reign, 
through  a  serious  illness,  was  completely  paralyzed,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  the  functionary  organs  of  digestion  were  much  out  of  order; 
being  also  a  man  of  great  corpulence,  and  a  great  admirer  of  the  festive 
board,  much  food  was  required  to  satisfy  his  royal  appetite ;  and  the 
difficulty  which  his  physicians  experienced  was  to  supply  his  want  of 


192  ENTREES. 


food  in  the  smallest  compass.  The  head-cook,  on  being  consulted, 
begged  a  few  hours'  reflection  before  he  could  give  an  answer  to  so 
important  a  question,  as  nothing  but  mutton  entirely  deprived  of  fat 
was  to  compose  his  Majesty's  meal.  After  profound  study  by  the  chief 
and  his  satellites,  a  voice  was  heard  from  the  larder,  which  was  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  the  kitchen,  crying,  "  I  have  found  it,  I  have 
found  it."  It  was  a  young  man  of  the  name  of  Alphonse  Pettier,  who, 
in  saying  so,  made  his  appearance  in  the  kitchen  with  three  beautiful 
mutton  cutlets,  tastefully  trimmed  and  tied  together ;  he  then,  with  a 
small  skewer,  fastened  them  to  a  spit,  and  placed  them,  to  the  astonish- 
ment of  all  present,  close  to  the  bars  of  the  grate :  two  of  the  cutlets 
soon  got  brown  (observe,  not  a  word  was  to  be  said  until  the  trial  was 
made),  from  brown  they  soon  turned  black :  every  one  gazed  at  each 
other  in  astonishment  whilst  Pottier,  with  quite  a  composed  countenance, 
terminated  his  scientific  experiment,  took  them  off  the  spit,  drew  the 
skewer  out,  cut  the  string,  threw  the  two  burnt  cutlets  away,  and 
merely  served  the  middle  one,  which  seems  to  have  received  all  the 
nutriment  of  the  other  two ;  it  was  served  and  greatly  approved  of  by 
the  physicians,  as  well  as  by  the  gourmet  potentate,  who  in  consequence 
of  two  being  sacrificed  for  one,  named  it '  Cutlet  a  la  Victime,'  and  often 
afterwards  used  to  partake  of  them  when  in  the  enjoyment  of  health. 

Cut  three  cutlets  from  the  neck  of  mutton,  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  trim  one  very  nicely,  free  from  fat,  leave  the  other  two  as 
cut  off,  put  the  trimmed  one  between  the  two,  flatten  them  to- 
gether, so  that  the  fat  of  the  outside  ones  meet  over  the  middle 
one ;  tie  them  together  thus,  and  broil  over  a  very  strong  fire 
for  ten  minutes ;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  cut  the  string,  and 
dish  up  the  middle  one  only  on  a  very  hot  dish,  with  a  little 
salt  sprinkled  over  it.  If  wanted  roasted,  proceed  as  above. 


462.  Roast  and  Braised  Chicken,  for  Entries. — Have 
a  chicken  trussed  for  boiling ;  put  it  on  a  spit,  envelop  it  as  for 
turkey  (No.  358),  roast  half  the  time  or  little  less,  depending  on 
the  fire  and  the  size  of  the  chicken ;  when  done,  remove  it  from 
the  spit,  and  take  off  the  envelope,  and  serve  with  any  of  the 
following  garniture : — -jardiniere,  green  peas,  oysters,  cucumbers, 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  white  mushroom  sauce,  ragout  of  quenelles, 
juice  of  tarragon  (No.  363),  Dutch  sauce,  with  a  few  heads  of 
cauliflower  well  boiled,  and  cut  small. 


463.  Braised    Chicken. — If  not   convenient   to   roast,   put 


ENTREES.  193 

a  little  bacon  in  a  stewpan,  then  a  chicken,  a  large  onion,  half 
a  carrot,  half  a  head  of  celery,  two  bay-leaves,  two  cloves,  one 
peppercorn,  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  a  little  pepper, 
a  bouquet  garni,  and  a  quart  of  water,  let  simmer  till  tender ; 
dish  up,  after  having  well  drained  it,  take  the  string  off,  pour 
any  of  the  above  sauces  over  or  under  them ;  when  the  chicken 
is  done,  you  can  make,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  more  water, 
a  very  good  puree,  and  even  sauces,  and  by  adding  some  trim- 
mings of  beef,  veal,  lamb,  or  mutton,  it  will  make  a  first-rate 
clear  broth,  after  being  clarified  giving  it  a  proper  color. 

464.  Chicken  plain  boiled. — Put  two  quarts  of  water  into  a 
stewpan,  on  the  fire,  or  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  a  few  vegetables  ;  when  boiling,  rub  the  breast  of 
the  chicken  with  half,  a  lemon,  and  put  it  in  to  simmer  from  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  to  twenty  minutes  ;  if  a  large  fowl,  increase 
the  quantity  of  water,  and  boil  longer ;  sauce  over  with  parsley 
and  butter,  or  celery  sauce,  or  any  of  the  above :  use  the  broth. 

The  remains  of  any  of  the  above,  or  of  turkey,  capon,  guinea- 
fowl,  or  other  poultry,  may  be  dressed  as  hash,  by  cutting  them 
into  neat  pieces ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  put  to  it  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  of  flour,  half  a  one  of  chopped  onions, 
ditto  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,,  half  a  pint  of  water,  a  few  drops  of 
coloring ;  set  to  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve ;  the  ad- 
dition of  a  few  mushrooms  is  excellent. 


465.  Poultry  en  Capilotade. — Put  with  the  pieces  of  fowl  a 
tablespoonful  of  oft,  and  one  glass  of  sherry,  into  a  pan,  and 
proceed  as  above ;  when  ready  to  serve,  chop  a  few  gherkins, 
and  put  in, 

466.  Indian  Hash  Fowl. — Make  a  pint  of  sauce  (p.  YO), 
warm,  put  into  it  your  pieces  of  fowl,  and  serve  with  rice  plain- 
boiled. 

46  Y.  Fried  Fowl. — When  you  have  cut  the  pieces  as  before, 
put  them  into  a  basin  with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  a  spoonful  of  oil, 
and  two  of  vinegar,  and  a  little  chopped  eschalot,  stir  them  well 
9 


194  ENTREES. 


in  it,  and  let  remain  for  half  an  hour,  have  ready  a  quantity  of 
batter,  and  take  a  fork  and  dip  each  piece  one  after  the  other 
into  it,  and  then  let  it  drop  into  the  frying-pan,  in  which  is  suf- 
ficient hot  fat  to  cover  them ;  fry  a  nice  color,  and  serve  in  a 
pyramid,  with  fried  parsley  over,  or  any  sauce  you  like  under. 


468.  Blanquette  of  Fowl. — Put  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  in 
a  stewpan,  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  broth  or  milk,  let  it  boil, 
having  cut  up  about  a  pound  of  the  remains  of  any  kind  of 
poultry,  put  it  in  the  sauce,  warm  it,  and  add  two  spoonfuls  of 
liaison  to  it ;  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  stir  it,  and  serve.     Do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle, 
and  be  unsightly  and  unpalatable ;    a  little  cooked  ham  or 
tongue  are  good  in  it,  also  oysters,  and  served  with  bread  sippets 
round.     A  little  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over  makes  it  look 
very  inviting. 

469.  Minced  Fowl. — Cut  the  remains  into  small  dice,  with  a 
little  ham  or  tongue,  add  thick  white  sauce,  season  mildly ;   it 
can  be  served  with  poached  eggs  over. 


470.  Saute  of  Fowl. — See  the  article  Saute,  which  is  applica- 
ble to  all  kinds  of  poultry ;  if  the  fowl  be  old,  it  should  be  pre- 
viously stewed. 

471.  Broiled  Fowl,  with  Sauce. — Have  a  fowl  ready  plucked 
and  drawn,  open  the  back  from  one  end  to  the  other  with 
a  sharp  knife,  having  previously  cut  the  feet 'off  at  the  second 
joint,  make  an  incision  in  the  skin,  and  pass  the  bone  through 
to  fix  it  internally ;  lay  the  fowl  on  the  table,  breast  down,  beat 
it  as  flat  as  possible  with  a  chopper,  take  out  the  breast-bone, 
and  also  the  rough  part  of  the  interior  of  the  back,  especially  if 
a  large  or  old  fowl ;  after  you  have  it  in  a  nice  shape,  season  all 
over  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  one  of  pepper,  put  it  on 
a  gridiron,  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  it  every  five  minutes  until 
done ;  if  a  young  one,  twenty-five  minutes  ought  to  do  it  well ; 
but  by  trying  with  the  finger  on  the  thick  part,  it  will  easily  be 
known  by  even  an  inexperienced  hand,  if  firm  under  the  finger, 


ENTREES.  195 


it  is  done,  or  by  pressing  the  wing,  and  if  tender,  it  is  also 
done ;  put  on  dish,  and  pour  over  a  brown  mushroom  sauce,  or 
the  following :  put  two  spoonfuls  of  Chili  vinegar,  two  of  Har- 
vey's sauce,  two  of  catsup,  one  of  chopped  eschalot,  ten  of  plain 
melted  butter,  put  in  a  stewpan  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes  ; 
skim  and  serve  under  or  over. 


4*72.  Another  way. — When  the  fowl  is  ready  for  broiling,  put 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  or  fat,  or  one  ounce  of  butter,  into  a 
saute-pan,  lay  in  the  fowl,  and  saute  it  gently  until  a  nice  yellow 
color,  and  then  broil  as  above ;  or  egg  and  bread-crumb  it  over, 
melting  a  little  butter,  and  drop  a  little  now  and  then  when  on 
the  fire,  and  with  care  it  will  be  gold  color ;  serve  with  either 
sharp,  mushroom,  tomato,  or  poivrade  sauce  on. 


473.  A  la  Tartare. — By  making  about  half  a  pint  of  the 
above  sauce,  and  ornament  an  oval  dish  by  placing  on  the 
border  cut  gherkins,  beet-root,  olives,  place  the  sauce  on  it,  and 
lay  the  fowl  very  hot  over  it ;  thus  the  fowl  is  hot  and  the  sauce 
cold,  but  together  very  good. 


474.  Croquettes  of  Fowl. — Take  the  lean  of  the  remains  of 
a  fowl  from  a  previous  dinner,  and  chop  it  up  in  small  pieces, 
then  put  into  a  stewpan  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  with 
half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  them  for  about  three  minutes  over 
the  fire,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  then  add  the  fowl, 
and  a  gill  of  white  sauce,  or  more  if  not  sufficiently  moist ;  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
very  quickly,  stir  it  a  little  longer  on  the  fire,  and  turn  it  out  on 
a  dish  to  cool ;  when  cold,  take  twelve  pieces,  each  of  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  roll  them  out  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
bread-crumb  thrice  over ;  fry  a  good  color,  dress  them  on  a 
napkin,  or  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes.  Every  kind  of  remains 
of  game,  meat,  poultry,  and  fish,  may'  be  made  the  same  way : 
if  no  sauce,  add  a  little  more  flour,  and  use  milk  or  broth. 


475.  Fricassee  of  Fowl. — Divide  a  fowl  into  eight  pieces, 
wash  it  well,  put  the  pieces  into  a  stewpan,  and  cover  with 


196  ENTREES. 


boiling  water,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper, 
a  good  bouquet  of  parsley,  four  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace,  let 
it  boil  twenty  minutes,  pass  the  stock  through  a  sieve  into  a 
basin ;  take  out  the  pieces  of  fowl,  trim  nicely,  then  put  into 
another  stewpan  two  ounces  of  butter,  with  which  mix  a  good 
spoonful  of  flour,  moisten  with  stock,  put  in  the  pieces  of  fowl, 
stir  occasionally  until  boiling,  skim  well,  add  twenty  button 
onions,  let  simmer  until  the  onions  are  tender,  when  add  a  gill 
of  cream,  with  which  you  have  mixed  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
stir  in  quickly  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  take  out  the 
pieces,  dress  in  pyramid  upon  the  dish,  and  serve. 

If  you  require  to  warm  up  the  remainder  of  the  above,  put  it 
into  a  basin,  which  stand  in  a  stewpan  in  which  you  have  placed 
a  little  water,  put  the  cover  over,  and  let  it  boil  gently,  by  which 
means  the  contents  of  the  basin  will  get  warm  without  turning 
the  sauce ;  when  hot,  dish  up  and  serve.  The  same  plan  ought 
to  be  adopted  to  warm  up  any  remains  of  dishes  in  which  a 
liaison  has  been  introduced ;  it  prevents  its  turning,  which  is  un- 
avoidable in  any  other  way. 


4*76.  Fowl  Saute. — Pluck  and  draw  a  fowl,  cut  it  into  pieces, 
seven  or  eight,  as  you  like,  that  is,  the  two  French  wings,  the 
two  legs,  the  breast  in  one  or  two  pieces,  and  the  back  in  two ; 
trim  nicely,  put  into  a  saute-pan  two  ounces  of  butter,  put  it  on 
the  fire ;  when  hot,  lay  in  your  pieces,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  saute  gently,  turn  over ;  when  of  a 
nice  gold  color  and  tender,  pour  the  fat  of  the  pan,  add  a  glass 
of  sherry  and  ten  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  boil  ten  minutes 
longer  but  very  slowly,  and  serve  in  pyramid;  sauce  over. 
This  done  in  oil,  with  the  addition  of  twenty  mushrooms  and  a 
little  garlic,  is  the  celebrated  dish  ofpoulet  a  la  Marengo. 

477.  The  Same,  a  plainer  way. — When  prepared  and  cooked 
as  above,  instead  of  the  sauce,  which  may  not  be  handy,  add  a 
spoonful  of  flour,  which  dredge  over  till  it  is  well  mixed,  then 
add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  few  drops  of  coloring  or  some 
mushroom-catsup,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  a  half  of  pepper, 
add  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  let  it  simmer  for  twenty  minutes, 
skim,  taste  if  your  sauce  is  well  seasoned,  dish  your  fowl,  reduce 


ENTREES.  197 


your  sauce  until  adhering  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve.  A  few  mushrooms  or  English 
truffles  may  be  added  to  it,  which  is  a  great  improvement ;  the 
color  of  the  sauce  ought  to  be  brownish ;  take  out  the  bouquet 
which  you  have  previously  squeezed. 


478.  Saute  of  Fowl  with  Vegetables. — Proceed  exactly  as 
above,  only  omitting  the  wine,  add  to  the  sauce  fifty  heads  of 
young  green  scallions,  or  some  small  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip, 
or  a  pint  of  green  peas,  or  cucumbers  cut  in  nice  pieces,  stew 
till  tender,  add  a  spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  dish  the  fowl, 
skim  the  sauce,  take  out  the  parsley ;  when  your  sauce  is  thick- 
ish  and  of  a  nice  color,  pour  over  the  fowl,  and  serve  very  hot. 


479.  Blanquettes  of  Turkey. — Cut  off  the  flesh  from  the 
remainder  of  a  roast  or  boiled  turkey  into  as  large  slices  as  pos- 
sible, then  break  up  the  bones,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  little  lean  bacon  and  an  onion,  and  a  small  bouquet  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  just  cover  them  with  water,  and  boil  gently 
for  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  skim,  and  pass  the  stock  through 
a  cloth,  and  with  it  make  a  little  white  sauce  as  directed,  then 
put  the  meat  into  another  stewpan,  lightly  seasoned  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg ;  just  cover  it  with  some  of  the 
sauce,  and  warm  it  gradually,  not,  however,  permitting  it  to 
boil ;  when  very  hot,  stir  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  with 
which  you  have  mixed  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  when  beginning 
to  thicken,  dress  it  upon  a  dish  with  toasted  or  fried  sippets  of 
bread  around,  cucumbers  cut  and  dressed  as  directed  p.  67, 
and  added  to  the  blanquette  are  a  very  great  improvement,  as 
are  likewise  button  mushrooms  or  a  few  slices  of  cooked  ham  or 
tongue. 

For  a  blanquette  of  fowl  proceed  precisely  the  same. 


480.  Boudins  of  Fowl  or  Turkey. — Cut  up  the  remains  of 
a  turkey  or  fowls  into  very  small  dice,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  lean  cooked  ham  to  each  pound  of  meat,  make  a  stock  with 
the  bones  as  directed  in  the  last ;  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  of  the  size  of  a 


198  ENTREES. 


walnut,  which  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  eschalots  become  a  little 
yellowish,  when  stir  in  a  good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add  the 
meat  and  about  a  pint  of  the  stock,  let  boil  gently  a  few  min- 
utes, season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  stir  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  in  quickly,  and  pour  it  out  upon  a  dish  until  cold, 
when  divide  it  into  pieces  of  the  size  of  eggs,  which  rub  into 
long  pieces  of  the  shape  and  size  of  flat  sausages,  which  egg  and 
bread-crumb  twice  over,  and  fry  of  a  nice  brown  color  in  hot  fat 
or  dripping,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  and  serve  very  hot. 

481.  Turban  of  Croquettes  a  I1  Epigramme. — Croquettes  are 
made  from  the  same  preparation  as  the  last,  but  made  up  into 
small  pieces,  two  inches  in  length  and  the  thickness  of  your 
finger ;  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  the  same,  dress  in  a  circle 
upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  with  some  blan- 
quette  of  turkey  or  fowl  in  the  centre. 


482.  Hashed  Goose. — Put  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions  into 
a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  which  fry  over  the  fire  until 
becoming  rather  browned,  then  stir  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  put 
in  the  remains  of  a  goose,  cut  into  neat  pieces,  and  well  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt ;  add  a  pint  of  stock,  let  the  whole  simmer 
about  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  A  little  apple  sauce 
may  be  served  separately  in  a  boat,  or  a  couple  of  apples  sliced, 
a  few  leaves  of  bruised  dried  sage  may  be  stewed  with  the  hash. 


483.  Stewed  Duck  with  Peas. — Truss  a  duck  with  the  legs 
turned  inside,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of 
butter  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon,  cut  into 
small  dice,  set  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  occasionally 
stirring  its  contents  until  it  becomes  lightly  browned,  then  add 
a  good  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  when  well  mixed,  a  pint  of 
stock  or  water,  stir  occasionally  until  boiling,  when  add  twenty 
button  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  with  a  bay-leaf;  let  the 
whole  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  keeping  it  well  skimmed, 
then  add  a  quart  of  young  peas,  and  simmer  half  an  hour 
longer,  or  until  the  peas  are  quite  tender,  when  take  out  the 
duck,  draw  out  the  string,  and  dress  it  upon  your  dish ;  remove 


ENTREES.  199 


the  parsley  and  bay-leaf,  season  the  peas  and  sauce  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  pour  over  the  duck  and  serve. 


484.  Stewed  Duck  with  Turnips. — Proceed  as  in  the  last, 
but,  instead  of  peas,  use  about  forty  pieces  of  good  turnips,  cut 
into  moderately-sized  squares,  and  previously  fried,  of  a  yellow- 
ish color,  in  a  little  lard  or  butter,  dress  the  duck  upon  your 
dish,  season  the  turnips  and  sauce  with  a  little  salt,  pepper  and 
sugar,  and  reduce  it  until  thickish,  not  however  to  break  the 
turnips ;  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

The  remains  of  ducks  left  from  a  previous  dinner  may  be 
hashed  as  directed  for  goose,  but  the  sage  and  apple  should  in 
all  cases  be  omitted ;  for  variety,  should  peas  be  in  season,  a 
pint  freshly  boiled  may  be  mixed  with  the  hash  at  the  time  of 
serving. 

485.  Fowl  Saute  in   Oil. — Cut  a  fowl  into  eight  pieces, 
that  is,  the  two  wings,  two  legs,  two  pieces  of  the  breast,  and 
two  of  the  back,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  over  a  moderate  fire,  shaking  the  stew- 
pan  round  occasionally,  until   the  pieces  of  fowl  are  rather 
browned,  when  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  which  moisten 
with  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  let  it  simmer  at  the  corner  of  the 
fire  twenty  minutes,  skimming  off  the  oil  as  it  rises  to  the 
surface ;  add  a  few  blanched  mushrooms  in  slices,  season  with 
a  little  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  and  a  piece  of  scraped  garlic  the 
size  of  a  pea ;  take  out  the  fowl,  which  pile  upon  your  dish, 
laying  the  worst  pieces*  at  the  bottom ;  reduce  the  sauce  over 
the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  sufficiently  thick  to  adhere  to 
the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  pour  over  the  .fowl  and  serve. 
Use  brown  sauce,  if  handy. 


486.  Fricassee  of  Rabbit. — Cut  a  nice  young  rabbit  into 
neat  joints,  and  put  them  into  lukewarm  water  to  disgorge 
for  half  an  hour,  when  drain  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  large  onion  cut  into  slices,  two  cloves,  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  little  parsley,  one  bay-leaf,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  streaky  bacon  cut  into  small  dice ;  cover  the  whole  with 
water,  and  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  well 


200  ENTREES. 

skimmed;  then  pass  the  stock  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin, 
take  out  the  pieces  of  rabbit  with  the  bacon,  then  in  an- 
other stewpan  have  two  ounces  of  butter,  with  which  mix  a 
good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  moisten  with  the  stock,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  boiling;  then  trim  neatly  the  pieces  of 
rabbit,  which,  with  the  bacon  and  twenty  button  onions,  put 
into  the  sauce;  let  the  whole  simmer  until  the  onions  are 
tender,  skimming  off  all  the  fat  as  it  rises  to  the  surface; 
then  pour  in  a  gill  of  cream,  with  which  you  have  mixed 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  leave  it  a  moment  upon  the  fire  to 
thicken  (but  not  to  boil),  take  out  the  rabbit,  which  pile 
upon  your  dish,  sauce  over  and  serve. 


487.  Gribelotte  of  Rabbit. — Cut  up  a  young  rabbit  into  neat 
joints,  as  likewise  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon  in 
small  dice,  put  the  bacon  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  when  a  little  fried,  put  in  the  pieces  of  rabbit, 
which  saute  of  a  light  brown  color,  moving  them  round  oc- 
casionally with  a  wooden  spoon ;  then  add  a  good  tablespoon- 
ful of  flour,  working  it  well  in,  moisten  with  a  pint  of  water, 
season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  when  beginning  to 
simmer,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  add  thirty  button  onions,  a 
few  blanched  mushrooms,  and  a  little  brown  gravy  or  color- 
ing; let  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer,  when  take  out 
the  rabbit,  which  dress  upon  your  dish ;  reduce  the  sauce  until 
it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  pour  it  over  the 
rabbit  and  serve. 


488.  Compote  of  Pigeons. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
lean  bacon  cut  into  small  dice  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  and  fry  a  few  seconds  over  the  fire,  then  have 
three  pigeons  trussed,  with  their  legs  turned  inside,  which  place 
in  the  stewpan  breast  downwards,  setting  them  over  the  fire 
until  of  a  light  brown  color,  moving  them  round  occasionally ; 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  which  work  well  in  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  until  becoming  browned,  when  moisten  with  a  pint  of 
water,  add  a  good  bunch"  of  parsley,  with  a  bay-leaf,  and  about 
thirty  button  onions,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  let  the 
whole  simmer  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  keeping  it  well  skim- 
med, then  dress  the  pigeons  upon  a  dish  with  the  bacon  and 


ENTREES.  201 


onions  round,  reduce  the  sauce  to  a  proper  consistency,  take  out 
the  parsley  and  bay-leaf,  sauce  over  and  serve. 


489.  Stewed  Pigeon  with  Peas. — Cook  the  pigeons  precisely 
as  described  in  the  last,  but  omitting  the  onions  and  bay-leaf, 
and  adding  a  quart  of  fresh  green  peas ;  when  done,  dress  the 
pigeons  in  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  and  peas  over  and  serve. 


490.  Hot  Lamb  Pie  (raised}. — To  make  this  an  oval,  a  tin 
or  copper  pie  mould  would  be  required,  which  you  would  choose 
of  a  size  most  generally  useful.  Butter  the  interior  of  the 
mould,  which  stand  upon  a  baking-sheet,  then  make  the  fol- 
lowing paste :  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  the 
same  of  chopped  suet  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  let  the  whole  boil  together  one  minute,  when  strain  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  basin  containing  two  pounds  of  flour, 
mixing  it  first  with  a  spoon,  and  when  cool  enough  with  the 
hand,  until  forming  a  smooth  paste ;  when  partly  cold  roll  it 
out  into  a  sheet  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  with  which  line  the 
mould,  pressing  the  paste  evenly  at  all  parts ;  have  ready  cut 
sufficient  small  lamb  chops  from  the  loin,  neatly  cut  away  the 
bones,  and  lay  them  round  the  interior  of  the  pie  alternately 
with  slices  of  raw  potatoes  (a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness), 
season  rather  highly  as  you  proceed,  with  pepper,  salt,  chopped 
onions,  and  parsley ;  make  a  neat  cover  with  the  trimmings  of 
the  paste,  and  bake  it  rather  better  than  two  hours  in  a  mod- 
erate oven ;  when  done  lift  the  cover,  pour  out  as  much  of  the 
fat  as  possible,  add  a  little  gravy  and  serve. 


491.  Other  various  Pies. — Hot  raised  pies  may  also  be  made 
with  mutton  by  following  the  above  directions.  They  are  also 
very  good  made  with  fillet  of  beef  cut  into  thin  slices  of  the 
size  of  the  lamb  chops,  or  of  rump  steak,  by  laying  a  piece  at 
the  bottom,  seasoning  and  filling  alternately  with  potatoes  and 
the  meat ;  veal  and  ham  pies  are  also  excellent,  but  the  potatoes 
in  them  had  better  be  omitted,  the  veal,  however,  seasoned  and 
dipped  in  flour.  Pies  may  also  be  made  with  veal  sweetbreads 
and  ham,  but  then  about  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce 

9* 


202  ENTREES. 


should  be  poured  in  after  the  pie  is  baked.  Fowls  or  rabbits  may 
likewise  be  cut  into  joints,  and  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece 
of  butter,  previously  well  seasoning  them  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
chopped  eschalots ;  cover  the  stewpan  close,  and  leave  it  twenty 
minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  when  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  and 
simmer  ten  minutes  longer,  when  cold  build  them  up  in  the  in- 
terior of  the  pie,  which  cover  and  bake  an  hour  in  a  warm  oven. 
Pies  of  the  above  description  can  of  course  be  made  of  any  size, 
either  large  enough  for  a  family  meal,  or  very  small  and  round, 
for  a  corner  dish  for  a  dinner  party ;  most  people  who  are  in 
the  habit  of  making  them,  keep  two  different-sized  moulds  for 
the  purpose. 

492.  Rump  Steak  Pie. — Procure  two  pounds  of  rumpsteaks, 
which  cut  into  thinnish  slices,  and  season  well  with  pepper  and 
salt,  dip  each  piece  into  flour,  and  lay  them  in  a  small  pie-dish, 
finishing  the  top  in  the  form  of  a  dome ;  add  a  wineglassful  of 
water,  then  have  ready  half  a  pound  of  half-puff  paste,  cut  off 
a  small  piece,  which  roll  into  a  band,  and  lay  round  the  edge 
of  the  dish,  having  previously  wetted  it  with  a  paste-brush, 
dipped  in  water,  then  roll  out  the  remainder  of  the  paste  to 
about  the  size  of  the  dish,  damp  the  band  of  paste  upon  the 
dish,  and  lay  the  other  piece  over,  make  a  hole  with  a  knife  at 
the  top,  press  the  edges  evenly  down  with  your  thumbs,  trim 
the  pie  round  with  a  knife,  egg  over  the  top  with  a  paste-brush, 
and  ornament  it  with  the  trimmings  of  the  paste,  according  to 
fancy  :  bake  it  rather  better  than  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven, 
and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


493.  Veal  and  Ham  Pie. — Cut  about  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  veal  into  thin  slices,  as  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked 
ham  ;  season  the  veal  rather  highly  with  white  pepper  and  salt, 
with  which  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  then  lay  over  a  few 
slices  of  ham,  then  the  remainder  of  the  veal,  finishing  with  the 
remainder  of  the  ham,  add  a  wineglassful  of  water,  and  cover 
and  bake  as  directed  for  beefsteak  pie :  a  bay  will  be  an  im- 
provement. 

494.  Mutton  Pie. — Procure  the  chumps  of  three  loins  of 


ENTREES.  203 

mutton,  from  which  cut  the  meat  in  moderately  thin  slices,  put 
a  layer  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  which  season  well  with  chopped 
parsley,  eschalots,  pepper,  and  salt ;  then  put  a  layer  of  slices 
of  raw  potatoes,  and  again  a  layer  of  mutton,  seasoning  as  be- 
fore, proceeding  thus  to  the  top,  which  form  in  a  dome,  finish- 
ing with  mutton,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  as  directed  for 
rumpsteak  pie. 

495.  Another  method. — Cut  six  chops  from  a  loin  of  mutton, 
from  which  trim  as  much  of  the  fat  as  possible :  season  them 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  lay  them  round  in  your  pie- 
dish,  the  thick  part  uppermost,  put  two  onions,  in  slices,  in  the 
centre,  over  which  lay  four  middling-sized  potatoes,  each  cut  in 
halves,  pour  in  a  wineglassful  of  water,  cover  with  paste,  and 
bake  as  the  last. 


496.  Lamb  Pie. — Cut  a  small  neck  of  lamb   into   chops, 
which  must  not  be  too  fat,  season  them  lightly  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  lay  them  in  your  pie-dish,  with  a  few  new  potatoes  in 
slices,  pour  in  a  little  water,  then  cover  and  bake  as  directed  for 
rumpsteak  pie. 

497.  Chicken  Pie. — Cut  up  a  nice  plump  chicken  into  joints, 
which  lay  upon  a  dish,  and  season  lightly  with  chopped  parsley, 
white  pepper,  and  salt,  then  lay  the  back,  cut  into  three  pieces, 
at  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  with  the  two  legs  on  either  side ; 
have  half  a  pound  of  cooked  ham  or  bacon  in  slices,  a  layer  of 
which  cover  over,  then  lay  in  the  two  wings,  and  over  them  the 
breast,  cut  into  two  pieces,  which,  with  the  remainder  of  the 
ham  or  bacon,  form  into  a  dome  in  the  middle,  pour  half  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  over,  if  handy,  or  a  little  broth  or  water,  cover 
with  paste,  and  bake  as  directed  for  the  last.     If  no  white  sauce, 
dip  each  piece  lightly  in  flour. 

498.  Rabbit  Pie. — Cut  a  nice  rabbit  into  joints,  splitting  the 
head  in  halves,  and  lay  them  in  lukewarm  water  half  an  hour, 
to  disgorge,  then  dry  them  upon  a  cloth,  season  well  with  pep- 
per, salt,  chopped  eschalots,  parsley,  two  bay-leaves,  and  a 
spoonful  of  flour;  have  also  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  un- 


204  ENTREES. 

cooked  streaked  bacon,  cut  into  square  pieces  the  size  of  walnuts, 
build  up  the  pieces  of  rabbit  and  bacon  together,  in  a  pie-dish, 
commencing  with  the  worst  pieces,  and  forming  a  dome ;  pour 
in  a  little  water,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  as  directed  for  rump- 
steak  pie. 

499.  Pigeon  Pie. — Line  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with    a 
pound  of  rumpsteak,  cut  into  slices  not  too  thin,  seasoned  with 
a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne,  and  dipped  into  flour ;  have 
ready  picked  and  drawn  a  couple  of  pigeons,  cut  oft' the  feet,  turn 
the  legs  in,  fold  up  the  pinions  of  the  wings,  and  lay  them 
breast  to  breast  upon  the  meat,  have  the  yolks  of  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  which  put  at  the  sides,  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and 
salt  over  the  pigeons,  lay  a  bay-leaf  upon  the  top,  pour  in  a 
little  water,  cover  with  paste,  stick  the  feet  in  the  top,  and  bake 
as  directed  for  the  last. 

500.  Partridge  Pie. — Line  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with 
slices  of  veal,  cut  moderately  thick,  and  rather  lightly  seasoned 
with  white  pepper  and  salt ;  have  ready  picked,  drawn,  and 
trussed  a  couple  of  young  partridges,  pour  one  glass  of  sherry 
over  the  veal,  and  lay  in  the  partridges  breast  to  breast,  laying 
a  piece  of  fat  bacon  over  each,  cover  with  paste,  sticking  the 
feet  of  the  partridges  in  the  top  of  the  pie,  and  bake  as  before. 

501.  Grouse  Pie. — Roast,  very  underdone,  a  couple  of  nice 
plump  grouse ;  when  cold,  cut  into  joints,  being  the  two  wings, 
two  legs,  and  the  breasts  into  two  pieces  each,  season  them 
lightly,  and  lay  them  in  a  pie-dish,  building  them  to  form  a 
dome,  then  break  up  the  back-bone  and  other  trimmings,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  glass  of  sherry,  a  bay-leaf,  an  onion 
in  slices,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  three  or  four  whole  allspice,  set 
the  stewpan  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes  until  the  wine  boils, 
when  add  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth, 
stir  it  over  a  fire  until  again  reduced  to  half  a  pint,  when  strain 
it  through  a  sieve,  over  the  grouse  ;  when  quite  cold  cover  with 
paste,  as  directed  for  rumpsteak  pie,  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven  ; 
about  half  an  hour  would  be  sufficient,  as  the  paste  requires 
to  be  laid  on  thinner,  the  contents  of  the  pie  having  been  pre- 
viously cooked. 


ENTREES.  205 


Pies  may  be  made  from  the  remains  of  any  poultry  or  game,  in  the 
same  manner  as  here  described  ;  only,  if  poultry,  use  white  sauce  instead 
of  brown,  and  omit  the  wine.  If  no  sauce,  roll  each  piece  in  flour,  and 
make  only  the  gravy,  which  place  in  it. 

The  remains  of  any  joint  of  meat  may  likewise  be  served  in  a  pie,  by 
cutting  the  meat  in  slices,  well  seasoning,  laying  them  in  a  pie-dish,  and 
pouring  half  a  pint  of  sharp  sauce  over ;  or  use  broth,  or  even  water 
highly  seasoned. 

502.  Sea  Pie. — Put  into  a  stewpan  two  pounds  of  beefsteak, 
season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  a  small  bit  of  celery  chopped  up, 
or  a  pinch  of  ground  celery  seed,  a  pinch  of  pounded  basil,  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  small  onion  cut  in  slices ;  put 
on  this  six  larks  trussed  for  roasting,  then  make  a  piece  of  paste 
with  suet,  about  one  inch  thick,  and  round  like  the  stewpan ; 
put  half  a  pint  of  water  or  Hock  in  the  stewpan,  and  cover  the 
larks  with  the  paste,  pressing  it  against  the  sides  of  the  stew- 
pan ;  simmer  for  one  hour,  and  serve,  by  putting  a  knife  round 
the  sides  of  the  stewpan  to  detach  the  paste,  and  turn  it  over  on 
a  dish. 


503.  Eel  Pie. — Skin  and  cleanse  three  good-sized  eels, 
which  cut  into  pieces  about  two  inches  in  length,  put  a  good- 
sized  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  three  bay-leaves,  all  tied  to- 
gether, into  a  stewpan,  with  an  onion,  into  which  you  have 
stuck  six  cloves,  a  glass  of  port  wine,  and  a  pint  of  broth,  lay  in 
the  pieces  of  eels,  and  set  them  upon  the  fire  to  simmer  for  ten 
minutes,  when  take  them  out,  laying  them  upon  a  cloth  to 
drain,  skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  stock  the  eels  were  cooked 
in,  to  which  add  rather  more  than  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce, 
let  the  whole  boil  until  reduced  to  three  parts  of  a  pint,  when 
dress  the  pieces  of  eels  up  in  a  pie-dish,  strain  the  sauce  over 
through  a  sieve,  and  when  cold,  cover  \\  ith  paste  as  directed  for 
rumpsteak  pie,  and  bake  about  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven, 
serve  it  hot.  If  for  a  small  pie,  they  may  be  used  raw,  and 
season  accordingly,  after  having  rolled  each  piece  in  flour. 


504.  Beefsteak  Pudding. — Put  a  pound  of  flour  upon  a 
dresser,  with  which  mix  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  very  finely 
chopped,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  into  which  put  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  sufficient  water  to  form  a  rather  stiffish  paste, 


206  ENTREES. 


mix  it  well  together,  using  a  little  more  flour  to  dry  it  and  pre- 
vent its  sticking ;  then  lightly  butter  the  interior  of  a  round- 
bottomed  pudding-basin,  roll  out  two  thirds  of  the  paste  to  half 
an  inch  in  thickness,  with  which  line  the  basin ;  have  ready  cut 
into  slices,  about  the  size  of  the  palm  of  the  hand  and  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  two  pounds  of  rumpsteak,  with  a  little 
of  the  fat  included,  lay  them  upon  a  dish ;  season  with  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  of  plack  pepper,  sprinkle  a  little  flour 
over,  move  them  about  a  little  until  each  piece  is  well  covered 
with  flour  and  seasoning ;  then  lay  them  within  the  paste,  also 
putting  in  whatever  seasoning  may  remain  upon  the  dish,  pour 
a  gill  of  water  over,  moistening  the  edges  of  the  paste ;  then 
roll  out  the  remainder  of  the  paste  to  form  a  lid,  which  place 
over,  pressing  it  down  with  the  thumb,  then  tie  the  basin  in  a 
pudding-cloth,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  containing  about 
a  gallon  of  boiling  water,  and  keep  continually  boiling  for  nearly 
two  hours,  adding  a  little  more  water  occasionally,  to  keep  up 
the  quantity;  then  take  it  up,  untie  the  cloth,  run  a  sharp- 
pointed  knife  into  the  pudding,  and  if  the  meat  feels  tender,  it 
is  done  (if  not,  it  will  require  more  boiling),  turn  it  over  upon 
your  dish,  lift  the  basin  carefully  from  it,  and  serve,  without 
opening  the  pudding  to  add  gravy,  as  many  persons  do,  for 
a  pudding  made  as  above  will  be  full  of  gravy  when  cut  at 
table. 

505.  Mutton  Pudding. — Line  a  pudding-basin  with  paste, 
as  directed  in  the  last ;  then  have  ready  cut  into  slices  the  meat 
from  two  loin-chumps  of  mutton,  which  lay  upon  a  dish,  and 
season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped   onions,  the   same  of 
chopped  parsley,  rather  more  than  half  that  quantity  of  black 
pepper,  and  salt  in  proportion;  then  put  a  layer  of  meat  into  the 
pudding,  then  a  layer  of  raw  potatoes  cut  into  slices,  proceeding 
thus  until  you  have  filled  it  up,  but  finishing  with  meat,  cover 
it  up  as  in  the  last,  likewise  tie  it  in  a  napkin,  and  boil,  but 
rather  better  than  two  hours  would  be  sufficient ;  serve  as  before 
directed. 

506.  Lamb  Pudding. — If  convenient,  procure  the  entire  ribs 
of  lamb,  sawing  off  the  breast  almost  close  to  the  lean  part  of 
the  neck ;  the  breast  may  be  cooked  as  directed  (No.  334) ;  cut 


ENTREES.  207 


the  neck  into  rather  thin  cutlets,  which  season  lightly  with  white 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  onions :  you  have 
previously  lined  a  pudding-basin  with  paste  as  before,  fill  it 
with  the  meat  thus  prepared,  intermixing  a  few  new  potatoes 
cut  in  slices,  finish  the  pudding,  boil,  and  serve  as  before 
directed. 

507.  Veal  Pudding. — Cut  two  pounds  of  veal  from  any  part 
of  the  leg  into  slices,  about  the  size  of  the  palm  of  the  hand  and  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  melted  lay  in  the  veal,  and  a  few  slices  of 
streaked  bacon,  season  the  whole  with  pepper  and  a  little  salt, 
add  one  bay-leaf,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme ;  place  the  pan  over 
a  slow  fire,  saute  the  veal  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  then 
take  it  from  the  fire,  and  leave  it  in  the  pan  until  cold,  then 
have  a  pudding-basin  lined  with  paste  as  before,  lay  in  the  veal 
and  bacon,  pouring  the  gravy  over,  cover,  and  boil  as  before,  but 
an  hour  would  be  sufficient. 

508.  Pork  Pudding. — Line  a  pudding-basin  with  paste  as 
before,  and  spread  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sausage-meat  of 
an  equal  thickness  over  the  interior,  have  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  lean  pork,  from  the  leg  if  possible,  cut  into  square  pieces  of 
the  size  of  walnuts,  which  season  rather  highly  with  pepper, 
salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots,  and  half  that  quantity 
of  dried  sage ;  put  the  meat  into  the  centre  of  the  pudding,  cover 
over  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  more  sausage-meat,  over  which 
put  on  the  cover  of  paste,  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  and  boil  two  hours 
and  a  half,  as  directed  for  beefsteak  pudding. 


509.  Kidney  Pudding. — Procure  one  ox  or  eight  mutton 
kidneys,  which  cut  into  slices  the  thickness  of  half-a-crown 
piece ;  lay  them  upon  a  dish,  seasoning  well  with  black  pepper 
and  salt,  and  shaking  one  ounce  of  flour  over,  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, to  absorb  the  flour  and  seasoning ;  then  have  a  pudding- 
basin,  lined  as  directed  for  beefsteak  pudding,  finish,  boil,  and 
serve  as  there  directed. 

A  pudding  made  with  one  pound  of  steak  and  a  beef  kidney 
is  also  very  excellent,  as  is  likewise  a  beefsteak  pudding  with 
two  dozen  of  oysters  (previously  blanched  and  bearded)  added. 


208  ENTREES. 


510.  Rabbit  Pudding. — Cut  a  rabbit  up  in  joints  (splitting 
the  head  in  halves),  and  lay  them  in  a  basin  of  lukewarm 
water  an  hour,  to  disgorge ;  line  a  pudding-basin  with  paste  as 
directed  for  rumpsteak  pudding,  dry  the  pieces  of  rabbit  upon  a 
cloth,   and   lay  them  in  the  pudding  with  half  a  pound  of 
streaked  bacon,  cut  into  square  pieces,  and  seasoning  rather 
highly  with  chopped  eschalots,  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  pars- 
ley ;  cover,  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  boil  it  two  hours,  and  serve  as  be- 
fore directed. 

511.  Suet  Pudding. — Put   a   pound   of  sifted  flour   in  a 
basin,  with  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet  finely  chopped,  add  two 
eggs,  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  beat 
well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  making  a  rather  thick  bat- 
ter, flour  a  pudding-cloth,  which  lay  in  a  small,  round-bottomed 
basin,  pour  in  the  mixture,  tie  the  cloth  tightly,  and  put  the 
pudding  in  to  boil,  with  a  joint  of  salt  beef,  if  you  have  one,  to 
serve  the  pudding  with,  or  if  not,  in  boiling  water  ;  an  hour  and 
a  quarter  would  be  sufficient  to  cook  it ;   when  done,  untie 
the  cloth,  turn  the  pudding  over  upon  your  dish,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

512.  Yorkshire  Pudding. — Put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
into  a  basin,  with  six  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  mix  well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding 
the  remaining  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk  by  degrees ; 
you  have  previously  set  a  shallow  tin  dish  under  a  piece  of 
roasting  beef  before  the  fire  ;  an  hour  before  serving  pour  in 
the  batter,  leaving  it  under  the  meat  until  quite  set  and  rather 
browned  upon  the  top,  when  turn  the  pudding  over  upon  the 
dish  you  intend  serving  it  upon,  and  again  place  it  before  the 
fire  until  the  other  side  is  rather  browned,  when  it  is  ready  to 
serve  with  the  meat. 

This  pudding  is  also  very  excellent  baked  under  a  small 
piece  of  beef  of  about  five  or  six  pounds.  It  is  also  frequently 
baked  beneath  a  shoulder  of  mutton ;  also  baked  in  an  oven 
separate  (with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy  added),  if  the  fire  is 
not  large  enough. 

513.  Toad  in  a  Hole. — Make  a  batter  as  directed  for  the 


ENTREES.  209 


Yorkshire  pudding,  but  with  the  addition  of  a  spoonful  more 
flour  and  six  ounces  of  chopped  beef  suet ;  butter  a  rather  deep 
baking-dish,  into  which  pour  the  batter,  lay  a  solid  piece  of  lean 
gravy  beef,  about  three  pounds,  in  the  centre,  and  bake  it  an 
hour  and  a  half  in  a  hot  oven. 

Another  method  is  to  cut  up  about  three  pounds  of  rump- 
steaks  into  about  six  pieces,  and  putting  them  in  the  batter 
at  various  distances  apart,  but  the  former  method  is  most 
common. 

Any  remains  of  cooked  beef,  veal,  mutton,  pork,  roasted  or 
boiled,  salt  or  fresh,  or  game  and  fowl,  cut  in  pieces,  and  sea- 
soned to  taste,  may  be  used  in  this  dish,  by  adding  it  to  the 
batter  when  in  the  dish. 

514.  Pease  Pudding. — Tie  a  pint  of  split  peas  in  a  cloth, 
leaving  them  room  to  swell,  but  not  more ;  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  of  cold  water,  where  let  them  boil  nearly  half  an  hour 
until  tender,  but  not  at  all  watery  (which  they  would  not  be  if 
allowed  only  sufficient  room  to  swell,  and  no  more)  ;  then  turn 
them  out  of  the  cloth,  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a 
basin,  after  which  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  season 
with  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  all  well  together,  with 
three  yolks  and  one  whole  egg ;  lightly  flour  a  pudding-cloth, 
which  lay  in  a  small  round-bottomed  basin,  pour  in  the  mix- 
ture, tie  up  the  cloth,  and  put  the  pudding  to  boil  for  an  hour 
in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water ;  when  done,  turn  it  from  the 
cloth  upon  a  dish,  and  serve  with  any  joint  of  boiled  pork. 

515.  Fowl  Pillau. — Put  one  pound  of  the  best  Patna  rice 
into  a  frying-pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  which  keep  moving 
over  a  slow  fire,  until  the  rice  is  lightly  browned ;  then  have 
ready  a  fowl  trussed  as  for  boiling,  which  put  into  a  stewpan, 
with  five  pints  of  good  broth,  pound  in  a  mortar  about  forty 
cardamom  seeds  with  the  husks,  half  an  ounce  of  coriander 
seeds,  and  sufficient  cloves,  allspice,  mace,  cinnamon,  and  pep- 
percorns, to  make  two  ounces  in  the  aggregate,  which  tie  up 
tightly  in  a  cloth,  and  put  into  the  stewpan  with  the  fowl,  let 
it  boil  slowly  until  the  fowl  is  nearly  done ;  then  add  the  rice, 
which  let  stew  until  quite  tender  and  almost  dry ;  have  ready 
four  onions,  which  cut  into  slices  the  thickness  of  half-crown 


210  ENTREES. 


pieces,  sprinkle  over  with  flour,  and  fry,  without  breaking  them, 
of  a  nice  brown  color,  have  also  six  thin  slices  of  bacon,  curled 
and  grilled,  and  two  eggs  boiled  hard ;  then  lay  the  fowl  upon 
your  dish,  which  cover  over  with  the  rice,  forming  a  pyramid, 
garnish  with  the  bacon,  fried  onions,  and  the  hard-boiled  eggs 
cut  into  quarters,  and  serve  very  hot. 

The  bag  of  spice  must  be  preserved,  as  it  will  answer  the 
same  purpose  half  a  dozen  times. 

Fowl  pillaus  are  frequently  served  with  two  ounces  of  Malaga 
raisins,  which  are  added  at  the  same  time  and  stewed  with  the 
rice. 


516.  Mutton  Pillau. — Trim  a  neck  of  mutton,  by  sawing 
off  the  tips  of  the  ribs  and  taking  away  the  chine-bone ;  then 
lay  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  bag  of  spice  as  in  the  last,  and 
cover  with  three  quarts  of  stock,  let  it  simmer  very  gently  two 
hours ;  then  take  out  the  mutton,  which  keep  hot  upon  a  dish, 
skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  stock  it  was  boiled  in,  to  which 
add  a  pound  of  Patna  rice,  which  stew  until  tender  and  very 
dry :  then  lay  it  over  the  mutton,  garnish  with  fried  onions, 
and  hard-boiled  eggs,  as  in  the  last,  and  serve  very  hot. 


517.  Chicken  Curry. — Cut  up  a  chicken  into  ten  pieces, 
that  is,  two  wings,  two  pieces  of  the  breast,  two  of  the  back, 
and  each  leg  divided  into  two  pieces  at  the  joints ;  then  cut  up 
a  middling-sized  onion  into  very  small  dice,  which  put  into  a 
stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  very  small  piece  of 
garlic,  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  sauted  well ;  then  add  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  curry  powder  and  one  of  curry  paste,  which 
well  mix  in ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  good  broth,  let  it  boil  up ; 
then  lay  in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  cover  it  over,  and  put  to  stew 
very  gently  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  it  round  occasionally,  if 
getting  too  dry  add  a  little  more  broth  (or  water)  ;  when  done, 
the  flesh  should  part  easily  from  the  bones,  and  the  sauce 
should  adhere  rather  thickly ;  season  with  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  serve,  with  plain  boiled  rice, 
upon  a  separate  dish. 

Ducklings  can  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

518.  Chicken  Curry  with  Paste. — Cut  a  chicken  up  as  de- 


ENTREES.  211 


scribed  in  the  last,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces 
of  clarified  butter,  put  it  over  the  fire,  stirring  occasionally  until 
the  pieces  of  the  chicken  are  lightly  browned ;  then  pour  off 
the  butter  and  fat  from  the  chicken,  add  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
curry  paste  and  a  pint  of  good  broth,  mix  all  well  together, 
place  the  stewpan  again  upon  the  fire,  stewing  its  contents 
slowly  for  about  twenty  minutes,  when  serve,  as  directed  in  the 
last. 


519.  Rabbit  Curry. — Cut  up  a  rabbit  into  smallish  pieces, 
splitting  the  head  in  halves,  cut  up  two  large  onions  and  one 
apple  into  very  small  dice,  which  fry  in  a  stewpan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter;  when  nicely  browned,  add  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder,  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  paste,  half 
one  of  flour,  and  a  pint  of  stock,  mix  well  together,  then  put 
in  the  rabbit,  with  half  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon,  cut  into 
square  pieces  the  size  of  filberts,  let  the  whole  stew  very  gently 
upon  a  very  slow  fire  (or  put  the  stewpan  closely  covered  down 
into  a  warm  oven)  three  quarters  of  an  hour;  when  done, 
which  you  may  ascertain  by  trying  with  the  point  of  a  knife  if 
the  flesh  will  leave  the  bone  easily,  pour  off  as  much  of  the  fat 
as  possible,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish ;  serve  with  rice 
separately. 

The  curry  sauce  should  be  sufficiently  thick  to  envelop  each 
piece  of  the  rabbit. 


520.  Veal  Curry. — Cut  up  about  two  pounds  of  lean  veal 
into  small  square  pieces,  half  the  size  of  walnuts,  then  put  a 
large  onion  cut  into  small  dice  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  clove  of 

farlic  and  one  apple  cut  into  slices,  and  one  ounce  of  butter ; 
eep  them  stirred  over  a  moderate  fire  until  lightly  browned, 
when  stir  in  a  good  tablespoonful  of  mild  curry  powder,  half 
one  of  flour,  mix  well,  then  add  a  pint  of  water,  let  it  just  boil 
up,  put  in  the  veal,  which  stir  round  two  or  three  times,  to  mix 
with  the  curry,  and  put  the  stewpan  over  a  slow  fire,  or  in  a 
warm  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  when  done  (which  you 
may  ascertain  by  pressing  a  piece  between  the  finger  and  thumb, 
if  done  it  would  be  quite  tender  and  separate),  add  the  juice 
of  a  lemon  and  a  little  salt,  stir  the  whole  round  three  or  four 


212  ENTREES. 


times  very  gently,  to  mix,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish,  serve 
with  rice  separately. 

Should  you  require  a  veal  curry  made  in  less  time,  the  bet- 
ter plan  would  be  to  saute  the  veal  in  butter  previously,  then 
putting  it  with  its  own  gravy  to  the  curry,  and  boiling  the 
whole  gently  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

To  make  a  veal  curry  with  curry  paste,  saute  the  veal  in 
butter ;  when  becoming  slightly  browned,  add  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  the  paste,  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  leave  it  to  stew 
about  half  an  hour,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 

Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  and  pork  curries  are  made  precisely  the 
same  as  directed  for  veal  curries. 


521.  Breast  of  Veal  Curry. — Procure  a  piece  of  breast  of 
veal  about  three  pounds  in  weight,  with  the  bones  and  tendons 
attached,  which  chop  into  about  twenty  square  pieces,  and  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  two  quarts  of  water,  and  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, thyme,  and  bay-leaves ;  let  it  simmer  three  hours  at  the 
corner  of  the  fire,  skimming  off  all  the  fat,  then  take  out  the 
meat  and  strain  the  broth  into  a  basin ;    in  another  stewpan 
have  a  middling-sized  onion  (cut  into  small  dice),  with  an  ounce 
of  butter,  saute  them  rather  brown,  then  add  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder,  mix  well,  and  pour  in  the  broth,  then 
add  the  meat,  which  let  stew  in  the  curry  one  hour  longer,  until 
the  meat  is  very  tender,  and  the  sauce  becomes  rather  thick ; 
pour  off  as  much  fat  as  possible,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  which  stir  in  very  gently,  take  the  meat  out 
as  whole  as  possible,  dress  them  upon  your  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
over  and  serve  ;  rice  separately. 

522.  Breast  of  Mutton  Curry. — Cut  up  a  breast  of  mutton, 
bones  and  all,  into  pieces  about  two  inches  in  length  and  one 
in  width,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  two  quails  of  water, 
to  simmer  for  about  two  hours,  when   proceed   precisely  as 
directed  in  the  last. 

523.  Breast  of  Lamb    Curry  is  made  very  similar  to  the 
preceding,  and  is  considered  a  great  treat  to  those  who  are  fond 
of  curries.     Curry  paste  may  be  used  to  advantage,  either  by 


ENTREES.  213 


itself,  or  mixed  equally  with  the  powder.  There  being  a  great 
quantity  of  fat  in  the  breast,  great  care  should  be  taken  to  re- 
move it  from  the  curry  every  available  opportunity. 


524.  LamUs  Head  Curry. — Procure  a  lamb's  head,  which 
split  in  halves,  break  the  bones  at  the  nostrils,  and  put  into 
lukewarm  water  an  hour  to  disgorge,  previously  taking  out  the 
brains,  which  likewise  disgorge  in  the  water,  then  put  the  head 
into  a  stewpan  well  covered  with  water,  let  it  boil  two  hours, 
when  take  it  out,  separate  the  bones  from  the  flesh,  which  cut 
into  small  pieces.     In  another  stewpan  have  a  middling-sized 
onion  cut  into  small  dice,  which  set  upon  the  fire,  adding  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  saute  them  a  light  brown  color,  when  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  half  that  quantity  of  curry 

nte,  mix  well  together,  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  head  with 
f  a  pint  of  broth,  and  stew  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Whilst 
the  curry  is  stewing,  take  the  brains  from  the  water,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water,  let  simmer  five  minutes, 
after  which  chop  very  fine,  and  put  them  into  a  basin,  with  a 
good  handful  of  bread-crumbs,  a  little  white  pepper,  salt,  and 
chopped  parsley,  mix  well  together  with  an  egg,  and  form  it 
into  six  little  round  balls,  which  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice 
over,  and  fry  in  a  little  hot  lard,  of  a  very  light  brown  color, 
then  dress  the  curry  upon  a  dish,  lay  the  brain  croquets  round, 
and  serve  with  rice  separately. 

525.  Calfs  Head  Curry  is  usually  made  with  the  remains 
left  from  a  previous  dinner ;    if  about  two  pounds  of  meat  re- 
maining upon  the  bone,  cut  it  whilst  cold  into  thin  slices,  then 
cut  two  onions  and  two  apples  into  small  dice,  which  put  into 
a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  half  a  clove  of  garlic  cut 
in  slices,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  over  the  fire  until  sauted 
nice  and  brown,  when  add  a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  half 
one  of  flour,  mix  well,  then  pour  in  a  pint  of  broth,  add  a  little 
salt,  and  boil  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  well  stirred ;  then  put 
in  the  calf's  head,  and  let  it  remain  upon  the  fire  until  quite 
hot  through;    add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  which  stir  in 
very  gently,  without  breaking  the  meat,  dress  it  upon  a  dish, 
and  serve  with  rice  separately.     Curry  sauce  may  be  passed 
through  a  sieve  previously  to  putting  the  head  in. 


214  ENTREES. 


526.  Calf's  Feet  Curry. — After  boiling  a  set  of  feet  for 
calf's  feet  jelly,  the  feet  may  be  served  in  curry  as  follows :  sep- 
arate the  meat  from  the  bones  whilst  the  feet  are  warm ;  when 
cold,  cut  them  into  small  square  pieces,  and  proceed  exactly  as 
in  the  last ;  or  use  curry  sauce. 


527.  Calfs  Tail  Curry. — Cut  up  calves'  tails  into  joints, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  small  piece  of  lean  ham  and 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf;  cover  them  with  three 
pints  of  cold  water,  and  let  simmer  about  two  hours,  until  ten- 
der, keeping  them  well  skimmed ;  when  done,  strain  the  stock 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  put  the  tails  upon  a 
plate  ;  then  proceed  as  directed  for  calf's  head  curry,  but  using 
the  stock  from  the  tails,  and  reducing  the  curry  until  rather 
thickish  before  adding  the  tails. 


528.  Ox  Tail  Curry  is  made  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but  one 
tail  would  be  sufficient,  and  it  would  require  double  the  time  to 
stew ;  or  use  curry  sauce. 

529.  Tripe  Curry. — Cut  two  large  onions  into  very  small 
dice,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  brown,  when  well  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
curry  powder  and  half  that  quantity  of  paste ;  add  a  pint  of 
broth,  and  two  pounds  of  double  tripe  cut  into  strips ;  let  the 
whole  stew  very  slowly  one  hour,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  when 
dress  it  upon  a  dish,  and  serve  with  rice  separately. 

530.  Lobster  Curry. — Procure  a  large  boiled  lobster,  break 
the  shell,  and  take  out  the  flesh  in  as  large  pieces  as  possible,  cut- 
ting the  tail  into  about  six  pieces,  and  the  claws  of  a  propor- 
tionate size ;  then  cut  two  onions  into  small  slices,  which  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  fry  them  of  a  light  yel- 
low color,  then  mix  in  a  good  tablespoonful  of  mild  curry  paste 
(or  half  powder  and  half  paste),  and  add  a  pint  of  good  broth, 
then  boil  it  up  over  the  fire  until  becoming  a  little  thickish, 
when  put  in  the  lobster,  stir  the  whole  round,  then  cover  the 
stewpan  closely,  and  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven  half  an  hour, 


ENTREES.  215 


by  which  time  the  curry  would  be  of  a  proper  consistency,  and 
the  lobster  very  delicately  tender,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  serve  with  rice  seperately.  If  no  oven  it  may  be  very 
gradually  stewed  over  a  slow  fire,  in  which  case  it  might  want 
moistening  occasionally. 

531.  Crab  Curry. — Prepare  the  onions  and  curry  precisely 
as  in  the  last,  but  adding  the  flesh  of  a  crab  (broken  small) 
instead  of  a  lobster ;  let  it  stew  over  the  fire  about  twenty 
minutes,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve  as  before. 

532.  Oyster  Curry. — Blanch  and  beard  six  dozen  of  oysters, 
leaving  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor ;  then  cut  two  middling- 
sized  onions  into  small  dice,  and  saute  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  an 
ounce  of  butter ;  when  done,  mix  in  two  teaspoonfuls  of  curry 
powder  and  one  of  curry  paste,  then  add  the  oysters  with  their 
liquor,  and  keep  stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  oysters  become 
enveloped  in  a  thick  sauce,  when  turn  them  out  upon  your 
dish,  and  serve  with  rice  separately. 


533.  Prawn   Curry. — Procure  sufficient  prawns  to  weigh 
about  a  pound ;  when  picked,  put  half  of  a  small  onion  chop- 
ped very  fine  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  stir 
them  over  the  fire  until  becoming  rather  yellowish ;  then  add 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  mild  but  rather  piquant  curry  paste,  mix- 
ing the  whole  gradually  with  half  a  pint  of  good  broth ;  then 
put  in  the  prawns,  and  stew  gently  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
when  they  will  be  ready  to  serve ;  rice  separate. 

If  no  curry  paste,  powder  may  be  used,  but  the  paste  is  for 
preferable. 

Shrimps  may  also  be  curried  in  the  same  way,  but  they  are 
in  general  so  very  salt. 

534.  Salmon  Curry. — Have  two  slices  of  salmon,  weighing 
about  a  pound  each,  which  cut  into  pieces  of  the  size  of  wal- 
nuts, cut  up  two  middling-sized  onions,  which  put  into  a  stew- 
pan, with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  clove  of  garlic  cut  in  thin 
slices,  stir  over  the  fire  until  becoming  rather  yellowish ;  then 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder  and  half  that  quantity  of 


216  ENTREES. 


curry  paste,  mix  all  well  together  with  a  pint  of  good  broth, 
put  in  the  salmon,  which  stew  about  half  an  hour,  pour  off  as 
much  of  the  oil  as  possible ;  if  too  dry,  moisten  with  a  little 
more  broth,  mixing  it  gently,  and  serve  as  before. 

Salmon  curry  may  also  be  made  with  the  remains  left  from 
a  previous  dinner,  in  which  case  reduce  the  curry  sauce  until 
rather  thick  before  putting  in  the  salmon,  which  only  requires 
to  be  made  hot  in  it. 

The  remains  of  a  turbot  might  also  be  curried  in  the  same 
way,  and  also  any  kind  of  fish. 


535.  Fillet  of  Sole  Curry. — Fillet  two  nice  soles,  and  cut 
each  fillet  intojfive  pieces  (slantwise) ;  then  in  a  stewpan  have 
a  small  onion  chopped  fine  and  fried,  to  which  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  curry  paste,  or  an  equal  quantity  of  paste  and 
powder ;  when  well  mixed,  put  in  the  fillets  of  soles,  with  just 
sufficient  broth  to  cover  them ;  let  it  boil  rather  fast  for  ten 
minutes,  when  the  sauce  will  become  sufficiently  thick  to  en- 
velop the  fish,  season  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve 
with  rice  separately. 

Fillets  of  haddocks  or  whitings  are  curried  precisely  the 
same. 


536.  Skate  Curry. — Plain  boil  about  two  pounds  of  skate 
with  a  piece  of  the  liver,  which  put  upon  a  dish  without  a  nap- 
kin, previously  well  draining  off  the  water ;  whilst  the  fish  is 
boiling,  cut  two  onions  in  slices,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with 
an  ounce  of  butter,  and  fry  of  a  lightish  brown  color ;  then 
mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  and  a  pint  of  good  broth,  set  it  upon  the  fire,  keeping  it 
stirred,  and  when  boiling,  put  in  a  good-sized  apple  cut  into 
slices,  let  boil  until  it  is  reduced  to  about  half,  when  rub  it 
through  a  tammy  or  hair  sieve,  pour  it  again  into  a  stewpan,  and 
when  hot,  pour  over  the  fish,  and  serve  with  rice  separately. 


EGGS. 

537.  Plain  Baked  Eggs. — Butter  with  one  ounce  a  plated 
dish,  or  common  tart-dish,  that  will  bear  the  heat  of  the  oven  ; 


ENTREES.  217 


break  carefully  six  eggs  on  it,  season  with  one  pinch  of  pepper, 
half  a  spoonful  of  salt,  and  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  in 
small  pieces  over,  put  them  in  a  slack  oven  until  set,  and 
serve. 


538.  Baked  Eggs  with  Asparagus. — Cut  twenty  heads  of 
sprue  into  small  pieces,  keeping  only  the  tender  part,  boil  them 
for  fifteen  minutes,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce 
of  butter,  set  them  on  the  fire  for  three  minutes,  season  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  when  done,  put  them  in  the  dish 
you  intend  to  serve  it  in,  break  six  eggs  over,  which  season  as 
above,  put  it  into  the  oven  until  it  sets,  and  serve;   in  case 
the  oven  is  not  sufficiently  hot,  place  a  salamander  over  the 
eggs. 

539.  Mashed  Eggs. — Break  four  eggs  into  a  stewpan,  with 
one  ounce  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  pinch  of 
pepper,  put  it  on  the  fire,  stir  continually,  and  as  soon  as  deli- 
cately set,  serve. 

These  can  be  served  with  either  green  peas,  sprue  grass,  or 
mushrooms,  which  must  be  stewed  and  prepared  as  if  ready  to 
serve ;  put  some  in  the  stewpan  with  the  eggs,  and  proceed  as 
before.  If  meagre,  use  cream  instead  of  butter. 


540.  Eggs  with  Burnt  Butter. — Put  into  a  frying-pan  two 
ounces  of  butter,  which  melt ;  as  soon  as  it  is  on  the  point  of 
browning,  put  in  the  eggs,  which  have  been  previously  broken 
in  a  basin,  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ;  when  well  set, 
serve,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  over  the  eggs. 

541.  Eggs  a  la  Tripe. — Cut  about  two  onions  each  into  thin 
slices,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  fresh  but- 
ter, and  set  them  on  a  slow  fire ;  when  warmed  through,  put 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  flour,  a  gill  of  milk,  and  a  little  sugar ;  let  it  boil,  put 
in  six  hard  eggs  cut  in  quarters,  and  serve,  after  a  little  ebulli- 
tion. 


542.  Snow  Eggs,— Take  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  little  sugar, 
10 


218  ENTREES. 


and  flavor  it  with  orange-flower  water,  or  any  other  essence, 
and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  having  previously  beaten 
up  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  if  very  hot  weather, 
you  must  place  the  basin  they  are  in  on  ice,  or  in  cold  water ; 
whilst  beating,  add  some  powdered  sugar  lightly ;  when  the 
milk  is  boiling,  take  the  white  up  with  a  tablespoon,  and  drop 
it,  one  tablespoonful  at  a  time,  in  the  stewpan  to  poach, 
keeping  the  shape  of  an  egg,  which  turn  over  when  set ;  when 
done,  remove  with  a  colander  on  to  a  sieve,  and  dress  them  in 
a  crown  on  the  dish  you  intend  to  serve  them  on ;  when  all 
done,  beat  up  the  yolks  of  four  of  the  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with 
a  little  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water,  pour  part 
of  the  boiling  milk  out  of  the  stewpan  into  it,  sufficient  to 
make  a  good  stiff  custard,  put  it  on  the  fire  until  rather  thick, 
and  pour  over  the  white,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold :  the  last 
is  preferable. 

543.  Eggs  with    Cheese. — Put   into  a  stewpan  about  two 
ounces  of  grated  Parmesan,  or  Gruyere,  or  old  Cheshire,  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  spring  onions  chopped 
up,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  a  glass  of  sherry ;  put  it  on 
the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  until  the  cheese  is  well  melted ;  break 
six  eggs  in  a  basin,  put  them  in  the  stewpan,  stir  and  cook  them 
on  a  slow  fire ;  when  done,  serve  with  fried  sippets  of  bread 
round.     Or, 

Another  way. 

Put  into  a  flat  dish  that  will  bear  the  oven  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  the  same  of  grated  cheese,  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  some  grated  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  mix  these  on  the  dish, 
put  it  either  in  the  oven  or  in  the  hot  plate,  or,  from  want  of 
either,  before  the  fire,  until  it  sets,  then  gently  break  six  eggs 
on  the  dish,  and  cover  with  grated  cheese,  and  salamander  until 
a  nice  brown,  or  for  want  of  one,  keep  it  before  the  fire  until  it 
is  so,  and  serve. 

544.  Eggs  in  Cases. — Cut  up  a  sheet  of  paper  into  pieces  of 
three  inches  square,  turn  up  half  an  inch  all  around  so  as  to 
form  a  kind  of  case,  they  will  then  remain  but  two  inches  square 
in  the  inside.    Take  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs, a  little  fine  chopped  parsley,  spring  onions,  salt,  and 


ENTREES.  219 


pepper,  and  mix  them  together,  put  a  little  into  each  case,  then 
break  one  egg  into  each,  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow 
fire,  and  do  them  gently,  or  place  them  in  a  dish  in  an  oven ; 
when  well  set.  serve. 


545.  Omelette  with  Herbs. — Break  six  eggs  in  a  basin  or 
stewpan,  and  add  to  it  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
one  of  chopped  eschalot  or  spring  onions,  half  ditto  of  salt,  and 
a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  beat  it  well  up  together.  Put  into  an 
omelette-pan,  that  is,  a  small  frying-pan  six  inches  in  diameter, 
two  ounces  of  butter,  which  melt,  then  pour  in  the  eggs,  stir 
round  with  a  spoon ;  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  set,  lightly  move  it 
to  that  part  of  the  pan  opposite  the  handle,  so  that  it  occupies 
only  one  third,  hold  it  so  that  that  part  of  the  pan  is  the  lowest, 
move  with  a  spoon  the  outside  edges  over,  and  let  it  remain 
half  a  minute,  so  that  it  obtains  a  good  color,  turn  it  over  on  to 
the  dish  so  that  the  bottom  is  at  the  top.  They  must  not  be 
too  much  done,  and  served  very  hot.  They  may  be  served 
plain,  or  with  the  addition  of  any  gravy. 

Omelettes  of  ham,  Parmesan,  <kc.,  are  all  made  as  the  above, 
with  the  addition  that  these  articles  must  have  been  properly 
cooked  previously,  and  well  chopped  up,  so  as  to  mix  well  with 
the  eggs,  beat  them  up  well  together,  and  cook  in  a  pan  the 
same  way,  or  a  little  grated  cheese  may  be  added.  This  I  beg 
of  you  to  practise ;  though  simple,  there  is  some  art  in  making 
it. 


GARNITURE  FOR  OMELETTES. 

546.  Asparagus,  Peas,  and  Green  Peas. — Putin  a  stewpan 
two  spoonfuls  of  plain  boiled  sprue-grass  that  has  previously 
been  cut  up,  add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  pep- 
per, and  sugar,  warm  it  on  the  fire,  moving  it  continually  ;  when 
warm,  put  it  with  a  spoon  in  the  centre  of  the  omelette,  turn 
over,  and  serve ;  the  same  with  peas,  and  add  melted  butter  or 
white  sauce. 

547.  Oysters. — Open  and  blanch  delicately  twelve  middle- 
sized  oysters,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  their  own  gravy, 
beard  them,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  milk  or  cream,  and  give  it  a 


220  ENTREES. 


boil,  then  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  in  which  you  have  mixed 
a  saltspoonful  of  flour,  stir  it  in  without  breaking  the  oysters, 
put  over  the  centre  of  your  omelette,  and  proceed  as  before. 


548.  Lobster. — Cut  half  or  a  small  one  in  thin  slices,  put 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  a  few  drops 
of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  a  little  cayenne ;  put  in  your  lob- 
ster, warm  it  well,  and  put  in  the  middle  of  the  omelette,  as 
above. 


549.  Kidneys. — Cook  two  kidneys  as  No.  430 ;  when  done, 
serve  in  centre  of  omelette,  as  above. 


550.  Mushrooms. — Wash  about  ten  small  fresh  mushrooms, 
cut  in  slices,  put  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  a 
little  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  simmer 
for  a  few  minutes  on  the  fire  till  tender;  if  too  liquid,  add  a 
little  flour,  place  in  centre  of  omelette,  and  proceed  as  above. 


551.  Bacon. — Cut  two  ounces  of  good  lean  bacon  in  small 
dice,  put  in  pan  to  fry  with  the  butter  for  one  minute,  then  mix 
with  the  eggs  prepared  as  for  omelette  of  herbs,  and  cook  the 
same  way. 


ENTREES  OF  GAME. 

552.  Broiled  Pheasant. — Having  drawn  a  pheasant,  lay  it 
upon  its  breast,  and  pass  a  knife  down  the  back-bone,  upon 
each  side,  taking  it  entirely  out,  then  cut  off  the  feet  at  the 
knuckle,  break  the  leg  and  thigh-bones,  turning  the  leg  inside, 
separate  the  breast-joint  of  the  wing,  pressing  the  bird  quite 
flat,  then  saute  it  in  a  saute-pan,  with  a  little  lard  or  dripping, 
and  when  browned  on  both  sides,  and  about  half  done,  place  it 
upon  a  plate,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb over,  and  broil  it  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire 
until  sufficiently  done,  which  would  be  in  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  when  serve  with  game,  mushroom,  or  any  piquant  sauce. 

The  advantage  of  broiling  or  sauteing  game  or  poultry  is, 


ENTREES.  221 


that  when  you  are  alone,  you  need  only  cook  the  half  of  any 
large  bird  at  one  time. 

Game  Curries. — I  have  also  made  very  good  game  curries, 
but  not  too  hot  with  curry,  as  that  would  entirely  destroy  the 
flavor  of  the  game. 

553.  Pheasant  stewed  with  Cabbage. — The  following  is  an 
excellent  method  for  dressing  a  pheasant  which  should  prove 
to  be  rather  old,  although  a  young  one  would  be  preferable. 
Procure  a  large  savoy,  which  cut  into  quarters,  and  well  wash 
in  salt  and  water,  after  which  boil  it  five  minutes  in  plain  water, 
then  drain  it  quite  dry,  cut  off  the  stalk,  season  rather  highly 
with  pepper  and  salt,  have  ready  a  middling-sized  onion,  and 
half  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon,  which,  with  the  cabbage,  put  into 
a  stewpan,  covering  the  whole  with  a  little  good  broth ;  let  it 
simmer  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  then 
thrust  the  pheasant  (previously  three  parts  roasted)  into  the 
cabbage,  and  let  them  stew  nearly  three  quarters  of  an  hour 
longer,  or  until  the  stock  has  reduced  to  glaze,  and  adheres 
thickly  to  the  cabbage,  when  dress  the  cabbage  in  a  mound 
upon  your  dish,  with  the  bacon,  cut  into  slices,  around,  and  the 
pheasant  upon  the  top,  half  way  buried  in  the  cabbage ;  have 
a  little  game  sauce,  which  pour  round  and  serve. 


554.  Joe  Miller's  stewed  Pheasant. — Roast  a  pheasant  as 
directed  (No.  582),  but  previously  dipping  it  into  flour,  and 
occasionally  flour  over  whilst  roasting,  thus  making  the  ex- 
terior very  crisp,   and  keeping  it  nearly  white,  then  put  the 
crumbs  of  two  French  rolls  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of 
milk,  a  small  eschalot,  a  bay-leaf,  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt ;  let  the  whole  boil  a  few  minutes,  when 
take  out  the  eschalot  and  bay-leaf,  place  a  piece  of  buttered  toast 
upon  your  dish,  pour  the  above  over,  dress  the  pheasant  upon 
the  top,  and  serve. 

555.  Hashed  Pheasant. — Should  you  have  any  remains  of 
pheasants  from  a  previous  day,  cut  them  into  as  neat  pieces  as 
possible,  then  put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with  half 
an  ounce  of  flour,  which  stir  two  or  three  minutes  over  the  fire, 


222  ENTREES. 


until  becoming  slightly  browned ;  then  add  a  glass  of  port  wine, 
half  a  pint  of  water,  season  highly,  boil  at  the  corner  of  the  stove, 
stirring  and  skimming  occasionally,  until  sufficiently  thick  to 
adhere  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  then  put  in  the  pieces  of 
pheasant,  with  a  little  coloring,  let  it  remain  ten  minutes,  at  the 
corner  of  the  stove,  but  not  to  boil,  when  dress  the  meat  upon 
your  dish,  pass  the  sauce  over  through  a  sieve,  and  serve. 


556.  A  plain  Salmi  of  Pheasant. — Or,  should  you  have  a 
pheasant  left  that  little  has  been  cut  from,  cut  and  trim  it  into 
neat  joints,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  then  in  another  stewpan 
put  the  bones  and  trimmings,  chopped  up  very  small,  with  an 
onion  in  slices,  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  four  pepper- 
corns, and  a  glass  of  sherry,  boil  altogether  two  minutes,  then 
add  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  and  half  a  pint  of 
broth  (if  no  brown  sauce,  add  a  spoonful  of  flour  and  a  quart 
of  broth  or  water  and  some  coloring) ;  let  the  whole  boil  until 
reduced  to  half,  skimming  it  occasionally ;  place  a  fine  hair  sieve 
over  the  stewpan  containing  the  pieces  of  pheasant,  through 
which  pass  the  sauce,  warm  altogether  gently,  without  boiling, 
and  when  quite  hot  dress  the  pieces  neatly  upon  a  dish,  pour 
the  sauce  over,  and  serve  with  sippets  of  fried  or  toasted  bread 
(cut  into  the  shape  of  hearts)  around. 

The  remains  of  pheasant,  or  any  other  game,  may  also  be 
minced  and  warmed  in  a  little  of  the  above  sauce,  and  served 
with  poached  eggs  upon  the  top,  or  likewise  made  into  boudins 
and  croquettes,  as  directed  for  turkey. 


557.  Grouse. — The  Scotch  method  is  to  plain  roast  the 
grouse,  dress  it  upon  toast,  and  pour  plain  melted  butter  over. 

But  they  may  be  dressed  in  any  of  the  ways  directed  for 
pheasants,  with  the  exception  of  being  stewed  with  cabbage,  as 
may  be  likewise  every  description  of  black  game. 


558.  Stewed  Partridges  with  Cabbage. — Have  two  nice  par- 
tridges trussed  as  for  boiling,  and  run  five  or  six  slices  of  fat 
bacon,  of  the  thickness  of  a  quill,  lengthwise  through  the  breast, 
but  not  to  protrude,  and  roast  them  fifteen  minutes  before  a 
moderate  fire;  have  some  cabbage  stewed  as  directed  for 


ENTREES.  223 


pheasant  with  cabbage,  but  stewed  nearly  dry  before  thrusting 
in  the  partridges;  keep  the  whole  hot,  but  not  boiling,  for 
about  an  hour  ;  have  ready  two  pork  sausages,  nicely  broiled, 
dress  the  cabbage,  which  must  be  quite  dry,  upon  your  dish  in 
a  mound,  with  the  partridges  at  the  top,  half  buried  in  it,  cut 
the  bacon  in  halves,  placing  a  piece  at  each  end,  with  a  sausage 
at  each  side ;  pour  half  a  pint  of  game  sauce  round,  and  serve  ; 
good  plain  gravy  is  also  very  nice. 


559.  Partridge  saute  with  Mushrooms. — Have  two  young 
partridges,  each  of  which  cut  in  halves,  and  lay  in  a  convenient- 
sized  stewpan,  into  which  you  have  previously  poured  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  first  seasoning  them  lightly 
with  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  sprinkle  of  chopped 
eschalots  ;  put  a  cover  upon  the  stewpan,  which  place  over  a 
moderate  fire,  until  one  side  of  the  partridges  is  browned,  when 
turn  them  over,  proceeding  the  same  until  browned  on  both 
sides  ;  then  pour  off  part  of  the  oil,  and  add  half  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  which  well  mix  in,  then  add  a  glass  of  sherry,  half 
a  pint  of  broth,  and  twenty  small  button  mushrooms  (previously 
blanched) ;  let  it  simmer,  skimming  off  all  the  oil  which  rises  to 
the  surface,  until  the  partridges  are  tender,  and  the  sauce  thick 
enough  to  adhere  to  them ;  season  the  sauce  a  little  if  required, 
dress  the  partridges  upon  a  dish,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

The  remains  of  partridges  may  likewise  be  hashed  or  served 
in  a  plain  salmi  as  directed  for  pheasants. 

560.  Woodcocks,  a  la  Lucullus. — Plain  roast  the  woodcocks 
as  directed  in  Roasts,  catching  their  trails  upon  toast,  upon 
which,  when  done,  dress  the  birds  on  a  dish ;  have  ready  a  little 
thick  melted  butter,  with  which  mix  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a 
little  cream,  pour  this  over  the  woodcocks,  sprinkle  lightly  with 
bread-crumbs,  salamander  of  a  light  brown  color,  and  serve 
with  a  little  gravy  round. 

561.  Woodcock,  the     Sportsman's    fashion. — Roast     two 
woodcocks  rather  underdone,  catching  their  trails  upon  a  largo 
piece  of  toasted  bread,  when  done  cut  each  bird  into  quarters, 
which  place  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  remainder  of  the  trail  cut 


224  ENTREES. 


small,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  a  glass  of  sherry,  a  little  chopped  es- 
chalot, the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half  a  gill  of  broth,  let  the 
whole  simmer  very  gently  a  few  minutes  ;  dress  the  pieces  of 
woodcock  rather  high  upon  the  toast,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and 
serve. 


562.  Hashed  Woodcock. — Should  you  have  any  remaining 
from  a  previous  dinner,  cut  each  one  in  four  (or  if  not  whole, 
into  neat  pieces),  chop  all  the  interior  rather  fine,  which  mix 
with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  spoonful  of  bread-crumbs,  and  a 
little  chopped  parsley ;  make  six  croutons  in  the  shape  of  hearts, 
from  a  piece  of  toasted  bread,  spread  a  piece  of  the  above  prep- 
aration upon  each,  and  put  them  in  a  warm  oven  for  a  short 
time ;  hash  the  pieces  of  woodcock  as  directed  for  pheasant,  and 
serve  with  the  croutons  round. 


563.  Snipes  a  la  minute. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan,  over  which  lay  six  snipes,  breasts  down- 
wards, add  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions,  the  same  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
saltspoonful  of  white  pepper  ;  set  the  stewpan  over  a  brisk  fire 
for  seven  or  ten  minutes  (according  to  the  size  of  the  birds), 
stirring  them  round  continually ;  then  add  the  juice  of  one 
lemon,  two  glasses  of  sherry,  the  same  of  broth,  and  a  spoonful 
of  finely-grated  crust  of  bread ;  let  the  whole  simmer  a  few 
minutes  longer,  dress  the  birds  upon  a  dish,  stir  the  sauce  well 
together,  pour  it  over  th£  snipes,  and  serve ;  a  little  glaze  is  an 
improvement. 

564.  Plovers  saute  with  JEJnglish   Truffles. — Procure  four 
plovers,  which  lay  breasts  downwards  in  a  stewpan,  containing 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  to  which  add  eight  raw  truffles, 
well  washed,  peeled,  and  cut  into  very  thin  slices,  two  cloves,  a 
bay-leaf,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
pass  the  whole  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  them 
round  occasionally ;  then  well  mix  in  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  which  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine;  let  the  whole  simmer  at  the  corner  of  "the  fire 
twenty  minutes  longer,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  dress  the  birds 


ENTREES.  225 


upon  a  dish,  reduce  the  sauce  to  a  proper  consistency,  season 
with  a  little  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  pour  it  over 
the  birds  ;  serve  very  hot. 


565.  Wild  Duck,  with  Orange  Sauce. — Having  trussed  your 
duck  as  for  roasting,  rub  it  all  over  with  the  liver  until  quite 
red  ;  then  put  it  down  before  a  good  fire  to  roast  for  twenty 
minutes,  after  which  cut  eight  incisions  down  the  breast,  and 
have  ready  the  following  preparation  :  put  an  ounce  of  butter 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  the 
rind  of  an  orange  (free  from  pith,  previously  cut  into  strips,  and 
blanched  in  boiling  water,  and  well  drained  upon  a  sieve),  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  warm  all  together,  and  when  melted,  but 
not  oily,  pour  over  the  duck,  and  serve. 


566.  Hashed  Wild  Duck. — Cut  up  the  remains  of  a  duck  or 
ducks  into  neat  pieces,  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  half  or  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  (depending  on  the  quantity),  mix  well, 
moisten  with  a  glass  or  two  of  wine,  and  sufficient  broth  or 
water  to  make  a  thickish  sauce,  season  well,  add  a  little  Harvey 
sauce,  mushroom-catsup,  a  little  sugar,  and  cayenne  pepper ;  let 
simmer,  but  not  boil,  take  out  the  pieces,  which  dress  upon 
toast,  reduce  the  sauce,  pour  over,  and  serve.  A  little  coloring 
may  be  added,  if  approved. 

56*7.  Widgeons. — Rub  the  breast  of  a  widgeon  over  with  a 
part  of  the  liver,  chop  up  the  remaining  part,  to  which  add 
a  few  bread-crumbs,  a  little  chopped  lemon-peel,  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  an  egg,  with  which  stuff  the  interior,  roast  nearly  as 
long  as  for  the  wild  duck  before  a  very  sharp  fire,  dress  upon 
toast  on  a  dish,  having  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  half  a 
glass  of  port  wine  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne,  boil  a  few  minutes, 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
sauce  over,  and  serve.  Widgeons  are  hashed  the  same  as  wild 
duck. 


568.  Teal,  a  new  method. — Procure  four,  draw  them ;  then 
10* 


226  ENTREES. 


put  half  a  pound  of  butter  upon  a  plate,  with  a  little  pepper, 
grated  nutmeg,  parsley,  a  spoonful  of  grated  crust  of  bread,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  the  liver  of  the  teal,  mix  well  together, 
and  with  it  fill  the  interior  of  the  teal ;  cover  them  with  slices 
of  lemon,  fold  in  thin  slices  of  bacon,  then  in  paper,  and  roast 
twenty  minutes  before  a  sharp  fire ;  take  off  the  paper,  brown 
the  bacon,  dress  them  upon  a  slice  of  thick  toast,  letting  the 
butter  from  the  teal  run  over  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 


569.  Teal  a  la  sans  facon. — Roast  four  teal  quite  plain,  pre- 
pare a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  as  above,  with  the  omission 
of  the  livers,  which  place  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire,  stirring 
quickly,  until  forming  a  kind  of  sauce,  add  some  fillets  from  the 
pulp  of  a  lemon,  sauce  over,  and  serve.     The  remains  of  teal 
also  make  excellent  hash. 

570.  Larks  a  la  minute. — Proceed  as  directed  for  snipes  a  la 
minute,  previously  stuffing  them  with  their  livers  as  directed  for 
widgeons,  adding  a  few  mushrooms  at  the  commencement ;  but 
do  not  let  them  stew  too  quickly,  or  the  bottom  will  brown  and 
give  a  bad  flavor  to  the  sauce ;  seven  minutes  are  quite  sufficient 
to  stew  them. 

571.  Lark  Pie. — Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  thin 
slices  of  beef  and  fat  bacon,  over  which  lay  ten  or  twelve  larks 
previously  rolled  in  flour,  stuffed  as  above,  season  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  one  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  one  of  chopped  eschalots,  lay  a  bay-leaf  over,  add  a  gill 
of  broth,  and  cover  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  half  puff 
paste,  bake  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  shake  well  to  make 
the  gravy  in  the  pie  form  a  kind  of  sauce,  and  serve  quite  hot. 


572.  Jugged  Hare. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with 
a  pound  of  bacon  cut  into  dice,  and  the  hare,  cut  into  pieces,  in 
a  stewpan :  set  upon  a  moderate  fire  until  the  pieces  of  hare  are 
becoming  firm,  when  add  six  ounces  of  flour,  mix  well,  and 
moisten  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  it :  add  two  glasses  of 
any  kind  of  wine,  and  one  of  vinegar,  season  high  with  pepper 


SECOND    COURSE.  227 


and  salt,  let  simmer  until  tender,  keeping  well  skimmed ;  when 
done,  and  the  sauce  becoming  rather  thick,  dress  upon  your 
dish,  and  serve. 


573.  Jugged  Hare  (another  way). — Put  about  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  with  ten  ounces  of  flour,  into  a  stewpan,  put  it  on  the 
fire,  and  keep  stirring  it  round  until  it  has  a  yellow  tinge ;  then 
add  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  square  pieces,  stir  it  a  little  longer 
on  the  fire ;  the  hare  having  been  previously  cut  up,  put  it  into 
the  stewpan  and  stir  it  about  until  it  becomes  firm,  when  add 
four  glasses  of  port  wine  and  sufficient  water  to  cover  it ;  season, 
and  add  two  bay-leaves  and  four  cloves,  and  when  half  done, 
about  fifty  button  onions,  or  ten  large  ones  in  slices,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  brown  sugar,  let  it  simmer  until  it  is  well  done  and  the 
sauce  rather  thick ;  dress  up,  sauce  over,  and  serve.  If  an  old 
one,  it  will  take  about  four  hours. 


ROASTS-SECOND  COURSE. 

THESE  dishes  consist  almost  always  of  game,  which  require  to  be  sent 
up  immediately  they  are  taken  from  the  fire,  and  require  great  care  and 
attention  in  cooking  them.  In  the  following  pages  will  be  found  many 
which  are  scarce  and  rarely  seen  in  London,  and  never  mentioned  in  our 
various  cookery  books ;  but  considering  that  many  of  our  friends  reside 
in  the  country,  I  have  written  it  for  them. 

574.  Turkey  Poults. — Turkey  poults,  so  called  from  being 
used  when  about  the  size  of  a  large  pullet,  are  trussed  with  the 
legs  turned  at  the  knuckle  and  the  feet  pressing  upon  the 
thighs,  the  neck  is  skinned  and  the  head  fixed  under  the  wing ; 
roast  them  the  same  as  directed  for  turkeys,  about  twenty-five 
minutes  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  their  size,  and  in  the  same 
modes,  but  they  are  usually  served,  one  larded  and  the  other 
barded,  with  gravy  and  water-cresses  in  the  dish. 


575.  Roast  Capon  with  Cresses. — Roast  and  serve  a  capon 
in  any  of  the  ways  directed  for  turkeys,  roast  of  a  nice  gold 
color,  and  serve  with  water-cresses  round ;  a  capon  weighing 


228  SECOND    COURSE. 


five  pounds  requires  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast. 
Poularde  au  cresson,  exactly  as  above. 


576.  Roast  Pullet. — For  a  dinner  of  four  entries  you  would 
require  two  fowls,  but  not  too  large ;  truss  and  roast  them  as 
directed  for  a  turkey,  judging  the  time  required  according  to 
their  size,  and  serve  with  gravy  and  water-cresses  ;  they  may  be 
larded,  barded,  or  served  in  any  way  mentioned  in  the  foregoing 
receipts.  A  fowl  weighing  two  pounds  and  a  half  would 
require  half  an  hour  roasting,  or  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  if 


57V.  Spring  Chickens  are  served  like  fowls,  generally  plain 
roasted,  but  they  may  be  larded  as  the  poularde.  Be  par- 
ticular in  tying  the  legs  upon  paper  to  the  spit,  as  directed  for 
the  turkey,  as  it  so  improves  their  appearance  when  roasted. 
About  twenty  minutes  would  be  sufficient  to  roast  them. 


578.  Goslings. — A  green  goose  roasted  plain,  and  served 
with  a  little  gravy,  is  generally  sent  up  for  second  courses ;  but 
if  the  larger  ones  are  used,  they  must  be  stuffed  with  sage  and 
onions,  but  very  few  would  choose  such  a  thing  for  a  roast 
second  course,  whilst  green  geese  in  their  season  are  great 
favorites ;  truss  them  by  cutting  off  the  leg  at  the  knuckle,  and 
the  wing  at  the  first  pinion,  fixing  them  at  the  side  with 
skewers  to  throw  the  breast  up;  a  full-grown  goose  will 
take  one  hour  to  roast,  but  a  green  one  not  more  than  half  an 
hour. 


579.  Ducklings  make  a  very  favorite  roast  in  the  London 
season ;  they  must  have  good  fillets,  white  and  plump,  and 
require  to  be  a  little  more  underdone  than  any  other  descrip- 
tion of  poultry ;  if  too  much  done,  the  fat  catches  and  gives  a 
rank  flavor  to  the  flesh,  besides  causing  the  fillets  to  eat  dry. 
They  are  usually  served  plain  roasted  for  a  second  course,  yet 
I  have  served  them  differently  upon  some  occasions  for  the 
sake  of  variety,  but  it  must  be  with  a  very  thin  sauce  and  one 
that  invigorates  the  palate,  although  they  never  can  be  better 


SECOND    COURSE.  229 


than  when  served  plain  roasted.  I  shall  here  give  one  or  two 
deviations  :  truss  them  by  twisting  the  legs  at  the  knuckles  and 
resting  the  feet  upon  the  thighs,  cut  the  wing  off  at  the  first 
pinion  and  run  a  skewer  through  the  bird,  fixing  the  pinion 
and  legs  with  it,  place  them  upon  a  spit,  and  roast  twenty 
minutes. 

580.  Guinea  Fowls. — These  birds  must  be  very  young,  for, 
being  naturally  very  dry,  they  are  not  eatable  if  more  than 
twelve  months  old ;  they  are  generally  larded  or  barded,  and 
served  plain  roasted,  rather  well  done ;  they  are  trussed  like 
the  common  fowls,  and  require  nearly  three  quarters  of  an 
hour  to  roast. 

581.  Pea  Fowls. — These  magnificent  birds  make  a  noble 
roast,  and  when  young  are  very  excellent ;  they  are  larded, 
plain  roasted,  and  served  with  the  tail  stuck  into  the  bird, 
which  you  have  preserved,  the  head  with  its  feathers  being  left 
folded  up  in  paper,  and  tucked  under  the  wing ;  roast  about 
an  hour  and  a  half,  take  the  paper  from  the  head  and  neck, 
dress  it  upon  your  dish  with  water-cresses,  and  the  gravy  and 
bread-sauce  separate  in  a  boat. 

GAME  (CHOICE  OF).— There  is  no  article  of  food  that  is  so  de- 
ceiving in  appearance  to  know  if  it  is  young,  tender,  and  good,  or  not, 
as  game ;  to  a  person  living  in  the  country,  where  a  member  of  the 
family  has  shot  them  in  his  day's  sport  or  have  been  received  as  pres- 
ents, a  knowledge  how  to  distinguish  them  is  requisite.  Young  birds 
may  be  distinguished  by  the  softness  of  their  quills ;  females  will  eat 
better  than  males,  they  are  more  tender  and  juicy.  Old  pheasants  are 
known  by  the  length  and  sharpness  of  their  spurs,  in  young  ones  they 
are  short  and  blunt. — Old  partridges  before  Christmas  have  light-blue 
legs,  instead  of  yellow-brown. — Wild  fowl  may  be  known  to  be  old 
from  their  bills  and  the  stiffness  of  the  sinews  of  the  legs,  those  that 
have  the  finest  plumage  are  the  worst  eating. — Hares  and  rabbits :  try 
if  the  ear  will  easily  tear  and  the  jaw-bone  break  between  the  finger 
and  the  thumb,  if  not  they  are  only  fit  for  soup  or  jugging. — On  re- 
ceiving birds  of  all  kinds,  put  in  their  mouths  three  or  four  peppercorns 
bruised  and  one  clove  of  garlic,  and  pepper  the  place  where  shot.  In 
case  you  receive  many,  tie  a  piece  of  paper  to  them  with  the  date  on 
which  they  were  received. 

582.  Pheasants. — At  the  present  day  there  are  great  varieties 


230  SECOND    COURSE. 


of  these  birds,  which  differ  as  much  in  their  flavor  as  their  plumage. 
There  are  also  a  large  quantity  of  hybrids  sold  in  market  as  a  genuine 
pheasant,  and  it  is  impossible  to  know  them  when  plucked.  The  flavor 
of  the  bird  will  depend  in  a  great  measure  on  the  nature  of  the  country 
where  it  is  killed. 

Have  them  prepared  and  trussed :  put  them  about  eighteen 
inches  from  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  then  draw  them  close,  and 
roast  as  quickly  as  possible,  rubbing  them  all  over  with  a  little 
butter,  serve  up  with  bread-sauce  separate,  and  good  gravy 
under.  They  are  also  good  larded,  or  one  larded  and  the  other 
barded. 


583.  Partridges. — The  red-legged  in  this  country  are  not  so 
fine  in  flavor  as  the  gray ;  they  are  dressed  like  the  pheasant, 
but  all  the  time  at  a  very  quick  fire,  and  serve  very  hot  from 
the  spit ;  it  is  better  to  wait  a  minute  or  two  for  it  than  to  have 
it  wait  for  you ;  dish  it  up  with  a  little  made  gravy  with  it, 
and  bread-sauces,  as  above. 


584.  Grouse. — These  birds  should  be  well  kept,  trussed  like 
a  fowl  for  roasting,  and  served  with  brown  gravy  under,  or  may 
be  dressed  as  follows :  truss  as  before,  covering  the  breast  with 
vine  leaves  and  fat  bacon,  which  tie  on ;  roast  from  half  to 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  according  to  size,  and  serve  with 
toast  under,  and  melted  butter  over. 


585.  Red  Grouse,  GorcocJc  or  Moorcock — the  common  Moor 
Game  (I'Attagas). — Trussed  like  a  fowl  for  roasting,  which  cook  quick 
before  a  sharp  fire,  serve  with  toasted  bread  under. 


586.  White  Grouse  or  Ptarmigan  (le  Lagopede). — They  are  to 
be  trussed  like  the  above,  and  plain  roasted,  and  served  with  toast 
under  and  fried  bread-crumbs,  separate  or  dressed  as  follows : — Put 
two  spoonfuls  of  currant-jelly  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
and  a  little  salt  dissolved  in  it ;  when  melted,  pour  over  and  serve. 

587.  Wild  DucJcs  (Canard  Sauvage). — The  male  is  called  the 
Mallard,  and  the  young  one  Flapper.     Under  the  above  title  a  great 
many  birds  are  sold. 


SECOND    COURSE.  231 


They  should  all  be  cooked  alike ;  they  must  be  kept  two  or 
three  days  before  they  are  dressed  ;  they  are  trussed  by  twist- 
ing each  leg  at  the  knuckle,  and  resting  the  claws  on  each  side 
of  the  breast,  fixing  them  with  a  skewer  run  through  the  thighs 
and  pinions  of  the  wings ;  rub  the  liver  over  the  breast,  roast 
them  before  a  quick  tire  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  baste 
with  butter,  not  basting  them  when  first  put  down  will  keep 
the  gravy  in ;  one  should  be  better  done  than  the  other,  in 
order  to  suit  the  taste  of  those  at  table ;  serve  with  made  gravy 
under,  and  a  lemon  separate. 

588.  Widgeon,  Whewer,  or  Whim  (le  Canard  Siffleur).— These 
should  be  eaten  fresher  than  a  Wild  Duck,  trussed,  dressed,  and  served 
the  same ;  fifteen  minutes  is  sufficient  before  a  good  fire. 


589.  Dunbird,  Pochard,  or  Great-headed  Widgeon  (Penelope, 
le  Millouiri). — In  some  parts,  Red  Heads,  Parkers,  or  Half  Birds. 
These  are  dressed  as  above,  but  are  not  so  good  as  the  Widgeon. 


590.  Teal  (la  petite  Sarcelle}. — This  is  a  delicious  bird  when  fat, 
which  they  generally  are  after  a  frost.  They  must  be  trussed  with  care 
like  ducklings ;  they  will  take  about  eight  minutes  to  roast ;  serve  with 
gravy,  water-cresses,  and  lemon,  separate,  about  six  on  a  dish ;  or  with 
sauces  Nos.  141,  143. 


591.  Garganey  (la  Sarcelle). — These  are  called  Summer  Teal,  re- 
semble it  in  shape,  and  are  dressed  the  same  way. 

592.  Plover. — -Of  these  there  are  several  sorts,  all  of  which  are 
good  to  eat  at  certain  seasons. 

They  should  be  well  kept,  but  not  too  long,  trussed  gently, 
but  not  drawn,  and  put  on  a  skewer,  place  them  a  little  distance 
from  a  sharp  fire,  with  a  bit  of  toast  under  to  catch  the  trail, 
baste  with  a  little  good  butter,  ten  minutes  is  sufficient ;  dress 
them  with  toast  under,  and  serve  with  gravy  separate.  They 
may  also  be  served  barded  with  vine  leaves  and  very  thin 
bacon. 

593. —  Woodcock  (la  Becasse). — This   is  a  most  delicious 


232  SECOND    COURSE. 


bird  when  well  cooked  ;  they  must  not  be  kept  too  long ;  they 
are  fit  for  cooking  when  they  become  black  between  the  legs, 
and  the  feathers  are  rather  loose ;  truss  them  with  the  legs 
twisted  at  the  knuckles,  and  the  feet  pressing  upon  the  thighs, 
bring  the  pinion  of  the  wing  to  the  thigh,  having  previously 
skinned  the  neck  and  head ;  bring  the  beak  round  under  the 
wing,  which  pass  through  the  pinions  of  the  wings  and  thighs. 
Place  four  on  a  skewer,  tie  them  on  a  spit,  and  roast  before  a 
sharp  fire  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  placing  toast  under  to 
catch  the  trail ;  when  done,  serve  on  the  toast  and  a  very  little 
gravy :  they  may  also  be  barded  with  thin  slices  of  bacon  over 
the  breast,  and  served  with  a  sauce  offumet  de  yibier. 


594.  Snipes. — They  are  dressed  in  every  respect  like  Wood- 
cocks ;  and  from  seven  to  ten  minutes  is  sufficient.  They  may 
likewise  be  fried  in  plenty  of  oil,  and  served  with  sauces  Nos. 
131,  143. 


595.  Larks  (VAlomtte). — They  are  best  in  winter  when  very 
fat ;  they  are  roasted  plain  or  with  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  and  a 
leaf  of  celery  tied  over  them  ;  they  require  about  eight  minutes, 
and  served  with  a  little  gravy  and  bread-crumbs,  they  are  also 
used  in  pies  (see  Pigeon  Pie) ;  and  may  be  dressed  like  Snipes. 


596.  Quail  (la  Caille). — Should  be  killed  at  least  forty-eight 
hours  before  they  are  wanted ;  they  should  then  be  plucked, 
singed,  drawn,  and  trussed  by  cutting  off  the  wings  at  the  first 
pinion,  leaving  the  feet,  and  fixing  the  pinion  and  the  wings 
with  a  very  small  skewer ;  cover  the  breast  with  vine  leaves  and 
a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  run  a  skewer  through  the  pinions  and 
thighs  of  each :  tie  on  a  spit  and  roast  for  ten  to  twelve  min- 
utes before  a  sharp  fire.  They  should  be  served  a  nice  gold 
color  in  a  dish  with  a  little  gravy  ;  they  may  also  be  trussed  as 
above,  and  put  into  a  pig's  caul,  and  roasted  and  served  with 
either  sauces  Nos.  141,  601. 


597.  Rabbits. — There  are  two  sorts,  the  tame  and  wild;  the  wild 
or  gray  inhabits  the  mountainous  districts ;  has  the  finest  flavor,  or  on 
those  places  where  it  can  feed  on  thyme,  geneva,  or  other  aromatic 


SECOND    COURSE.  233 


"herbs,  or  on  the  sea  coast,  where  he  gets  the  lichen  or  wild  moss.  It 
has  a  much  darker  color  than  the  tame.  The  tame  rabbit,  if  properly 
fed  21  days  before  killing,  may  be  made  a  very  delicate  article  of 
nourishment ;  it  should  be  kept  from  two  to  four  days.  When  killed  it 
should  be  removed  to  a  cold  place  as  quick  as  possible,  that  the  fat 
may  set. 

If  old,  the  claws  will  be  long  and  rough,  the  coat  rough  and 
gray  hairs  mixed  with  it.  If  young,  the  claws  and  wool  smooth. 
If  stale,  the  flesh  will  be  slimy  and  a  bluish  color ;  if  fresh,  it 
will  be  stiff,  and  the  flesh  white  and  dry. 


598.  Hares. — One  is  sufficient  for  a  roast,  skin  and  truss  it 
nicely,  stuff  the  interior  with  a  good  veal  stuffing,  sew  it  up, 
then  put  it  on  the  spit,  rub  butter  over  the  back  and  shake  flour 
over  it,  roast  it  about  forty  minutes  before  a  sharp  fire,  but  that 
depends  upon  the  size,  of  course ;  serve  them  with  plain  gravy 
in  the  dish  and  currant  jelly  separate.  They  are  also  served 
with  a  sauce  poivrade,  or  sweet  sauce ;  they  may  also  be  larded. 


599.  Leverets  are  plain  roasted  and  do  not  require  stuffing, 
nor  so  long  roasting,  being  smaller ;    they  are  usually  served 
with  plain  gravy,  but  may  be  served  with  either  of  the  sauces 
mentioned  in  the  last ;  you  require  two  for  a  roast.     They  will 
take  from  twenty -five  to  thirty  minutes  roasting.     They  may  be 
larded,  for  a  change. 

600.  Wild  Fowl  Sauce. — The  following  is  a  good  sauce ; 
the  quantities  are  given  for  one  wild  duck. 

Walnut  catsup  one  tablespoonful ;  the  same  of  Harvey's  or 
Worcestershire  sauce,  the  same  of  lemon-juice,  a  wine-glass  of 
red  wine,  a  good  slice  of  lemon-peel,  one  eschalot  minced,  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  one  blade  of  mace,  and  a  wine- 
glassful  of  gravy ;  boil  ten  minutes,  serve  very  hot,  and  pour 
over  the  bird  when  cut  up. 

601.  Fumet  de  Gibier  Sauce. — Take  the  remains  or  bones 
of  game  (the  back-bones  of  grouse  are  best),  chop  them  up 
small,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  glass  of  white  wine,  an 
onion,  a  small  piece  of  carrot  and  of  turnip  sliced,  a  leaf  of  eel- 


234  SAVORY   DISHES. 


ery,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  the  same  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove, 
half  a  blade  of  mace ;  stir  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  then  add 
a  quart  of  brown  sauce,  if  too  thick  add  some  water,  boil  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  skim,  strain,  and  serve  ;  a  little  lemon- 
juice  and  cayenne  pepper  may  be  added  if  approved  of. 


SAVORY  DISHES. 

602.  Veal  and  flam  Pies  (raised). — The  following  few  dishes 
will  be  found  extremely  useful  for  breakfasts,  luncheons,  second  course 
in  a  dinner  party,  or  for  dinner  in  summer,  but  above  all  for  supper 
when  you  give  an  evening  party. 

Having  found  a  great  difficulty  in  raising  the  crust  for  a  pie  with  my 
hands,  I  purchased  for  a  trifle  a  tin  pie-mould,  by  the  use  of  which  the 
process  is  more  simple,  and  the  pie  retains  its  shape  whilst  baking, 
and  secures  the  gravy,  much  better. 

Well  wipe  and  butter  the  interior  of  the  mould,  then  have 
ready  two  pounds  of  pate  fine,  rather  firm  than  otherwise,  two 
thirds  of  which  roll  out  to  fit  the  mould,  press  it  evenly  over  the 
interior,  raising  the  paste  half  an  inch  above  the  edge  of  the 
mould,  you  have  previously  prepared  six  pounds  of  veal,  cut 
from  the  fillet,  as  follows :  cut  four  pounds  into  pieces  an  inch 
square,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  length  of  the  pie ;  with 
the  remainder  make  some  forcemeat  (see  Receipt) ;  then  run  eight 
pieces  of  fat  bacon,  each  two  inches  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  square,  through  each  piece  of  veal ;  have  also  two 
pounds  of  lean  bacon,  cut  into  pieces  of  nearly  the  same  size  as 
the  veal,  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  frying- 
pan,  and  when  melted  over  the  fire,  lay  in  the  veal  and  bacon, 
season  rather  highly  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  same  of  pep- 
per, half  that  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  tablespoonful 
each  of  chopped  onion  and  parsley,  saute  the  whole  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  occasionally  turning  the  meat,  until  getting  of  a 
nice  color,  and  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  covered  with  a  thickish 
glaze ;  then  line  the  interior  of  the  pie  with  some  of  the  force- 
meat, to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  after  which  lay  three 
pieces  of  veal  at  the  bottom  with  two  of  the  ham,  alternately, 
which  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat,  to  about  an  inch  in  thick- 


SAVORY    DISHES.  235 


ness,  then  more  veal  and  bacon,  with  forcemeat,  again  proceed- 
ing thus  until  full,  finishing  with  the  forcemeat,  forming  a  dome 
about  an  inch  above  the  edge  of  the  paste,  and  lay  a  pat  of 
butter  with  a  bay-leaf  at  the  top,  then  mould  the  remainder  of 
the  paste  into  a  ball,  which  roll  to  the  size  of  the  top  of  the 
pie,  wet  the  edges  with  a  little  egg,  lay  on  the  cover,  which 
press  down  with  the  thumbs,  working  the  edge  up  gracefully 
with  the  thumb  and  forefinger,  to  about  an  inch  above  the  top 
of  the  mould,  cutting  some  of  the  paste  away  where  too  thick, 
and  crimp  the  extreme  edge  with  a  pair  of  paste  nippers ;  then 
have  ready  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  which  roll  to  about  the 
thickness  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  from  which  cut  a  piece 
the  size  and  form  of  the  dome  of  the  pie,  upon  which  place  it 
to  form  a  lid  (pre viously  wetting  the  top  with  a  little  water), 
press  it  down  lightly,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  edges  as  well, 
make  a  small  hole  with  a  knife  at  the  top,  and  carve  any  design 
upon  the  puff  paste  according  to  fancy  ;  tie  a  band  of  buttered 
paper  round  the  mould,  an  inch  above  the  pie,  put  it  into  a 
moderate  oven  to  bake  about  two  hours,  but  to  be  certain  if 
done,  run  a  pointed  knife  or  trussing  needle  into  the  centre,  and 
if  it  feels  tender  it  is  sufficiently  baked. 

Then  take  it  from  the  oven,  and  pour  in  a  gill  of  strong  gravy, 
in  which  you  have  dissolved  a  little  isinglass  (especially  if  in  summer) ; 
when  cold,  take  it  from  the  mould  (which  opens  at  one  end  by  drawing 
out  a  pin),  and  serve  upon  a  napkin,  garnished  round  with  parsley.  To 
carve,  cut  it  into  slices,  the  whole  breadth  of  the  pie  and  half  an  inch  in 
thickness. 

Such  a  pie  as  above  would  weigh  four  pounds  when  baked ;  but 
should  you  require  a  smaller  one,  diminish  the  proportions  accordingly. 
If  no  puff  paste,  the  top  might  be  ornamented  with  a  few  leaves  from 
the  trimmings  of  the  other  paste.  I  have  given  you  the  above  receipt 
very  minutely,  as  the  above  applies  to  every  description  of  raised  pie, 
the  difference  only  being  its  contents. 


603.  Raised  Pie  of  Fowls. — Make  the  paste  and  forcemeat 
as  in  the  last,  but  instead  of  veal  and  ham,  bone  a  young  fowl 
as  directed  for  galantine,  which  lay  flat  upon  a  clean  cloth,  breast 
downwards,  season  the  interior  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and 
chopped  onions ;  spread  a  layer  of  forcemeat  over,  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  have  ten  pieces  of  veal  of  the  thickness  of  your 
finger,  and  the  same  length  as  the  fowl,  and  the  same  number 
of  pieces  of  fat  bacon,  lay  half  of  the  veal  and  bacon  alternately 


236  SAVORY    DISHES. 


upon  the  fowl,  well  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  cover  over 
with  more  forcemeat,  then  another  layer  of  veal  and  ham,  cover 
with  more  forcemeat,  then  roll  the  fowl  over,  making  the  skin 
meet  at  the  back,  you  have  previously  lined  a  raised  pie-mould 
with  paste,  then  line  the  pie  with  forcemeat,  half  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, lay  in  the  fowl,  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over,  cover 
with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat,  to  form  a  dome,  place  a 
pat  of  butter  and  two  bay-leaves  upon  the  top,  finish  and  bake 
precisely  as  in  the  last :  when  done,  pour  in  a  gill  of  gravy 
made  from  the  bones  of  the  fowl ;  serve  cold. 

604.  Raised  Pie  of  Pheasant. — Proceed  precisely  as  for  the 
pie  of  fowl,  but  of  course  using  a  pheasant,  an  old  one  would 
answer  the  purpose  if  kept  long  enough,  but  all  the  sinews  of 
the  legs  must  be  taken  out  in  boning  it,  the  fillets  of  the  breast 
also,  being  very  thick,  may  be  partly  cut  out  and  used  with  the 
veal  for  the  interior ;  if  in  a  situation  to  obtain  rabbits,  the  fillets 
of  them  might  be  used  instead  of  veal  for  the  interior,  and  the 
legs  for  forcemeat. 

For  gravy,  break  up  the  bones  of  the  birds,  which  put  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  glass  of  sherry,  an  onion,  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme, 
parsley,  and  a  bay-leaf;  let  it  simmer  a  minute  over  the  fire, 
then  add  a  pint  of  broth  and  a  little  isinglass  or  gelatine,  let  the 
whole  simmer  for  an  hour,  giving  it  a  nice  brown  color,  when 
pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  smaller  stewpan,  place  it  again 
upon  the  fire,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  half  a  pint, 
and  when  the  pie  is  baked,  pour  it  in,  shaking  the  pie  a  little  to 
mix  well ;  serve  when  cold. 

Pies  of  grouse,  partridges,  moor  fowls,  &c.  are  made  pre- 
cisely in  the  same  manner,  using  one  or  more  according  to  the 
size  you  wish  to  make  your  pie.  The  fillets  of  hares  are  like- 
wise excellent  in  pies,  whilst  the  legs  might  be  jugged  or  con- 
verted into  soup. 

Capons,  poulards,  green  geese,  or  ducklings  may  also  be 
served  in  a  pie  by  proceeding  as  directed  for  fowls,  but  man- 
aging the  size  of  the  pie,  and  seasoning  in  proportion. 

Pigeon  pie  can  also  be  made  in  the  same  way,  but  then  the 
meat  with  which  the  interior  of  the  birds  is  filled  must  be  cut 
much  smaller,  and  require  less  time  in  cooking. 

605.  Simple  method  of  making  Pies. — Make  two  pounds 


SAVORY   DISHES.  237 


of  flour  into  a  paste,  as  'No.  602,  and  also  two  pounds  of  force- 
meat, mould  three  quarters  of  the  paste  into  a  ball,  which,  with 
a  rolling-pin,  roll  to  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness  and  of  an 
oval  shape  ;  lay  half  the  forcemeat  in  the  centre,  which  spread 
over  to  within  two  inches  of  the  rim,  having  prepared  and  sauted 
some  veal  and  ham  as  directed  for  the  veal  and  ham  pie,  No. 
602,  lay  them  alternately  upon  the  forcemeat,  with  which  again 
cover  the  meat,  laying  a  pat  of  butter  and  a  bay-leaf  upon  the 
top ;  roll  out  the  remainder  of  the  paste  of  an  oval  shape,  but 
much  thinner  than  the  other,  damp  the  paste  around  with  a 
little  water,  and  lay  the  sheet  of  paste  over,  pressing  it  down 
with  the  finger  and  thumb,  then  wet  the  top,  and  bring  up  the 
paste  at  the  sides,  which  will  stick  to  it,  thus  forming  a  long 
square  pie,  with  the  trimmings  of  the  paste  form  a  few  leaves, 
with  which  decorate  it  according  to  fancy,  egg  the  whole  well 
over,  make  a  hole  in  the  top,  and  bake  two  hours  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  when  done,  pour  in  the  gravy,  as  for  pies  made  in 
moulds,  and  put  by  to  serve  cold.  A  square  piece  of  puff 
paste  laid  upon  the  top,  and  ornamented  previous  to  baking,  is 
also  a  great  improvement.  Some  gravy,  as  above,  may  of 
course  be  introduced. 

You  will  perceive,  my  dear  Eloise,  from  this  one  receipt,  that  any 
kind  of  poultry,  game,  or  meat  pies,  might  be  made  in  the  same  manner. 
To  carve,  they  should  be  cut  across  in  thin  slices  through  paste  and  all. 

When  we  are  alone  I  frequently  make  a  very  small  one  for  luncheon, 
generally  grating  half  a  pound  of  sausage  meat,  with  which  I  mix  an  egg 
and  a  little  chopped  eschalots,  frying  the  veal  or  lean  bacon  or  ham,  and 
proceeding  as  for  the  larger  ones ;  from  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  an 
hour  would  be  sufficient  to  bake  it ;  at  times  I  make  it  with  a  pigeon, 
partridge,  or  two  plovers  stuffed,  and  surrounded  with  forcemeat,  but 
boned :  they  are  very  excellent  hot. 

606.  Tureen  of  Game. — I  bought  the  other  day  a  common 
earthen  tureen,  for  which  I  gave  ninepence  ;  I  made  some  force- 
meat precisely  the  same  as  for  pies,  boned  a  grouse  and  stuffed 
it  as  for  a  pheasant  pie,  and  seasoning  the  same  ;  I  then  lined 
the  tureen  with  the  forcemeat,  laid  in  the  bird,  which  I  again 
covered  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat,  put  two  pats  of 
butter  and  a  bay-leaf  upon  the  top,  then  placed  on  the  cover, 
fixing  it  down  with  a  band  of  common  paste  laid  inside  upon 
the  rim  of  the  tureen,  and  baked  it  three  hours  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  when  I  opened  it  about  a  week  afterwards  it  was 


238  SAVORY    DISHES. 


most  delicious ;  when  served  to  table  the  cover  should  be  taken 
off,  the  bay-leaf  removed,  and  a  few  fresh  water-cresses  laid  over. 
All  sorts  of  game,  poultry,  and  meat,  I  have  done  in  the  same 
way ;  it  is  quickly  done  and  very  good  and  economical,  as  it  will 
keep  a  long  time. 

60*7.  Galantines. — Having  twice  failed  in  the  attempt  to  make 
this  difficult  dish,  I  was  about  to  relinquish  the  idea,  but  having  re- 
ceived a  small  turkey  about  two  months  back,  I  could  not  resist  making 
another  attempt,  in  which  I  succeeded ;  it  is  rather  expensive,  but  it  is 
a  beautiful  dish  for  supper.  After  having  plucked,  and  singed  off  the 
hairs  with  a  piece  of  lighted  paper,  I  laid  it  breast  downwards  upon  a 
clean  cloth,  and  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  boned  it  as  follows :  first, 
just  pass  the  point  of  the  knife  through  the  skin,  which  cut  open  straight 
down  the  back-bone,  then  proceed  to  clear  the  fle.sh  from  the  bones  of 
the  carcase  until  you  come  to  the  breast-bone,  disjointing  the  wings  and 
legs  as  you  proceed ;  very  carefully  detach  the  breast-bone  from  the 
flesh  without  cutting  through  the  skin,  when  you  may  remove  the  car- 
case wkh  the  interior  of  the  turkey ;  then  proceed  to  take  the  bones 
from  the  legs  and  wings,  which  is  not  quite  so  difficult ;  for  the  legs, 
scrape  the  first  bone  free  from  the  flesh  to  below  the  first  joint,  where 
chop  it  off;  cut  the  flesh  round  over  the  knuckle  and  pull  the  foot,  when 
the  remainder  of  the  bone  and  sinews  will  come  together ;  then  cut  off 
the  wings  at  the  first  pinion,  and  the  remaining  bone  is  quickly  scraped 
away. 

I  can  assure  you  I  found  this  quite  a  job  the  first  and  second  time, 
but  it  is  very  essential  to  learn,  as  all  kinds  of  poultry  and  game  are 
boned  in  the  same  manner,  and  to  this  description  all  references  upon 
the  subject  must  be  made  throughout  our  little  work. 

You  have  prepared  four  pounds  of  forcemeat,  as  for  pies, 
also  have  long  strips  of  veal,  ham,  and  fat  bacon,  which  well 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  eschalots ;  put  a  layer  of 
the  forcemeat  an  inch  thick  down  the  bird,  leaving  two  inches 
upon  each  side  uncovered,  then  some  of  the  veal,  bacon,  and 
cooked  ham  alternately,  which  again  cover  with  forcemeat,  but 
not  exceeding  half  an  inch  in  thickness  (as  too  much  forcemeat 
between  the  meat  would  spoil  its  appearance),  proceeding  thus 
until  sufficient  to  fill  the  skin  of  the  bird,  when  pull  over  the 
flaps,  and  sew  it  up  tightly  with  a  packing  needle  and  small 
string,  and  tie  it  up  in  a  napkin.  If  any,  a  few  strips  of  cooked 
tongue,  and  blanched  pistachios,  laid  in  alternately  with  the 
veal  and  bacon,  greatly  improves  its  flavor' and  appearance. 

To  cook.  Put  in  a  stewpan  with  two  onions,  a  carrot,  half  a 
head  of  celery,  two  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  good  bunch  of 


SAVORY   DISHES.  239 


parsley,  thyme,  aud  bay-leaves,  a  knuckle  of  veal,  the  bones  of 
the  turkey,  two  calf's  feet,  two  ounces  of  salt,  add  sufficient 
water  to  cover  the  whole,  and  set  the  stewpan  upon  the  fire 
until  upon  the  point  of  boiling  ;  then  draw  it  to  the  corner,  skim, 
and  let  simmer  for  three  hours ;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  leaving 
it  in  the  stock  until  nearly  cold ;  then  take  it  out,  remove  the 
string  from  the  napkin,  and  roll  the  galantine  up  tighter,  tying 
the  napkin  again  at  each  end  only ;  then  place  it  upon  a  dish, 
the  breast  part  upwards,  set  another  dish  upon  it,  on  which  place 
a  fourteen  pounds  weight,  which  will  press  and  cause  it  to  cut 
firm ;  when  quite  cold  it  is  ready  to  serve,  having  removed  the 
napkin  and  the  string  with  which  it  was  sewed :  the  stock,  how- 
ever, should  be  clarified  as  directed  in  the  next  receipt  to 
make  a  savory  jelly,  which,  when  cold  and  firm,  is  cut  in  crou- 
tons and  chopped,  with  which  the  galantine  should  be  tastefully 
garnished. 

Although  at  first  I  had  some  difficulty  with  this  receipt,  I  can  now 
see  the  variety  to  which  it  leads,  as  the  same  process  answers  for  fowls, 
green  geese,  ducklings,  pheasants,  grouse,  partridges,  <fec.,  using  game 
with  the  veal  or  pork  for  the  interior,  and  stewing  them  according  to 
their  size,  the  bones  of  game  being  stewed  with  the  stock  would  give 
the  flavor  to  the  savory  jelly. 

608.  To  Clarify  Meat  Jelly. — Having  passed  the  stock 
(made  as  in  the  last)  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  leave  it  until 
quite  cold ;  then  take  off  all  the  fat  very  carefully,  ascertain  if 
sufficiently  or  too  stiff  by  putting  a  small  piece  upon  ice ;  savory 
jelly  requires  to  be  rather  stiffer  than  sweet,  if  too  stiff  add  a 
little  more  broth,  if  the  contrary,  the  stock  must  be  reduced 
upon  the  fire  until  of  the  proper  consistency.  When  the  stock  is 
boiling,  and  you  are  perfectly  assured  of  its  strength,  have  the 
white  of  four  eggs  with  their  shells  in  a  basin,  with  half  a  pint 
of  water,  two  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  or  common  vinegar,  and  a 
glass  of  sherry,  whisk  all  together ;  then  whisk  the  stock  quickly 
a  few  seconds,  and  pour  in  the  other  ingredients  whilst  whisk- 
ing, continue  whisking  a  few  minutes  until  again  upon  the  point 
but  not  boiling ;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  taste  if  palata- 
ble, place  a  cover  upon  the  stewpan,  which  stand  a  little  dis- 
tance from  the  fire,  putting  a  few  red-hot  cinders  upon  the  lid 
for  rive  minutes,  tie  a  napkin  by  the  four  corners  upon  a  jelly 
stand,  through  which  pass  the  jelly,  having  a  basin  beneath  to 


240  SAVORY    DISHES. 


catch  it,  pour  the  first  that  runs  through  again  into  the  napkin 
until  it  runs  quite  clear ;  when  all  through,  pour  it  in  a  plain 
mould  or  saute-pan,  which  place  upon  ice  until  the  jelly  is  quite 
firm ;  then  dip  the  bottom  of  the  mould  in  hot  water,  turn  the 
jelly  out  upon  a  cloth,  and  cut  it  into  whatever  shapes  you 
please,  to  garnish  and  ornament  any  cold  savory  dish  ;  the  jelly 
when  warm  might  be  divided,  one  part  kept  white,  and  the 
other  colored  with  a  little  brown  gravy  or  coloring,  thus  en- 
abling you  to  variegate  in  garnishing. 

Should  the  jelly  be  required  to  ornament  tongues,  hams,  pies, 
salads,  or  any  article  when  no  galantine  is  made ;  then  to  make 
the  stock,  cut  the  veal  into  small  pieces,  and  split  the  calf's  foot 
in  two,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  convenient-sized 
stewpan,  with  the  veal,  foot,  a  small  piece  of  lean  ham,  and  the 
other  ingredients  as  directed  for  galantine,  pour  in  half  a  pint  of 
water,  put  on  the  lid  and  stand  it  upon  the  fire  until  the  bottom 
of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  glaze ;  then  add  a  gal- 
lon of  water,  let  simmer  three  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed ; 
then  pass  and  clarify  as  above. 

The  knuckle  of  veal  and  foot  may  be  served  hot  with  a  little 
parsley  and  butter,  for  a  dinner  previous  to  your  party,  with  a 
little  fried  bacon  separately,  but  for  my  own  part  I  prefer  them 
plain  as  they  leave  the  stewpan. 

609.  Cold  Ham. — Procure  a  very  nice  but  small  ham  of 
about  nine  pounds  in  weight,  which  soak  about  ten  hours  in 
cold  water,  and  simmer  three  hours  in  plenty  of  water ;  when 
done,  take  out  and  let  remain  until  cold ;  then  cut  off  the  skin 
as  thinly  as  possible,  but  without  leaving  the  marks  of  it ;  let 
a  piece  remain  upon  the  knuckle  about  two  inches  and  a  half 
in  breadth,  which  either  festoon  or  vandyke,  carve  the  fat  neatly 
to  form  a  shell,  and  glaze  it  over  lightly,  serve  with  a  paper 
frill  upon  the  knuckle,  and  garnish  with  savory  jelly,  or  if  plain 
with  a  few  bunches  of  fresh  green  parsley.  A  handful  of 
fresh  hay  put  in  the  water  when  boiling  is  an  improvement. 


610.  Cold  Tongue. — Boil  a  nice  ox  tongue  for  three  hours, 
and,  when  done,  take  off  all  the  skin,  and  truss  it  of  a  good 
shape,  by  placing  the  root  against  some  fixture,  and  running  a 
fork  through  the  middle  of  the  thin  part  into  the  board  upon 


SAVORY   DISHES.  241 


which  it  stands ;  when  cold  trim  and  glaze  it  lightly  over,  cut- 
ting off  the  greater  part  of  the  root,  place  it  upon  a  dish,  gar- 
nished either  with  savory  jelly  or  fresh  sprigs  of  parsley. 


611.  Galantine  of  Veal. — When  I  do  not  like  to  go  to  the 
expense  of  a  turkey  or  other  poultry  for  a  galantine,  I  procure  a 
small  breast  of  veal,  and  take  out  the  tendons,  which  I  stew ; 
take  out  the  remaining  bones,  and  trim  the  meat  to  about  fif- 
teen inches  in  length  and  eight  in  width,  using  the  trimmings 
for  a  ragout ;  season  the  interior  of  the  breast,  and  proceed  to 
lay  on  the  forcemeat  veal,  ham,  and  bacon,  as  directed  for  the 
galantine  of  turkey,  roll  and  sew  it  up,  tie  in  a  cloth,  braise,  and 
afterwards  press  it  in  precisely  the  same  manner ;  when  quite  cold, 
glaze  it  nicely  and  serve,  garnished  with  savory  jelly ;  or,  if  for 
a  large  supper,  six  or  eight  small  dishes  might  be  made  from  it 
by  cutting  it  into  thin  slices  crosswise,  and  dressing  six  pieces 
in  a  border  upon  each  dish,  with  a  little  jelly  in  the  middle,  or 
if  no  jelly,  a  sprig  of  parsley  or  water-cresses ;  but  if  served  in 
the  latter  way,  I  introduce  two  ounces  of  blanched  pistachios. 
When  making  the  galantine,  of  course,  the  dishes  must  be 
placed  at  a  distance  from  each  other  at  various  parts  of  the 
table.  I  have  also  made  a  galantine  of  a  shoulder  of  lamb  in 
the  same  way,  previously  taking  out  the  bones. 


612.  Cold  Fillet  of  Veal— Roast  braise  as  No.  358 ;  when 
cold,  trim  neatly,  and  garnish  with  jelly  or  parsley. 

A  loin  of  veal  larded  through  the  fleshy  part  with  raw  ham, 
and  fat  bacon,  and  roasted  as  above,  makes  a  very  delicate 
dish. 

A  small  shoulder  of  veal  might  be  boned  the  same  as  a 
shoulder  of  lamb,  and  made  into  a  galantine. 


613.  Ribs  of  Beef  larded. — Choose  a  piece  of  beef  with 
about  four  ribs,  and  cut  very  long,  carefully  take  away  the 
bones,  lard  the  fleshy  part  through  with  strips  of  fat  bacon, 
well  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  parsley ;  spread 
some  veal  stuffing  over,  and  roll  it  round,  keeping  the  stuffing 
in  the  interior,  tie  it  up  with  string,  and  roast  in  vegetables  as 
11 


242  SAVORY    DISHES. 


in  the  last  article,  leaving  it  to  cool  in  the  vegetables ;  when 
cold,  glaze  and  serve,  garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

The  beef  well  rubbed  with  garlic  and  well  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  previous  to  spreading  on  the  stuffing,  would  be  a 
great  improvement. 

I  sometimes  leave  the  bones  in  the  meat,  lard  the  fleshy  part, 
and  afterwards  roast  it  in  vegetables  to  serve  cold. 


614.  Pressed  Beef. — Procure  a  piece  of  brisket  of  beef,  cut 
off  the  bones,  and  salt  it  as  directed  (No.  615),  but  adding  a 
little  extra  sal  prunella  to  the  brine  and  a  little  spice  ;  let  the 
beef  remain  in  pickle  rather  better  than  a  week :  when  ready 
to  cook,  roll  it  round,  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  and  let   it  simmer 
gently  in  plenty  of  water,  about  seven  hours  if  a  whole  one, 
but  four  hours  if  only  the  thin  end ;  when  done  take  it  up, 
remove  the  string,  aud  tie  the  cloth  at  each  end,  put  it  upon 
a  dish  with  another  dish  over,  upon  which  place  half  a  hundred- 
weight, leaving  it  until  quite  cold,  then  take  the  meat  from  the 
cloth,  trim  and  glaze  it  lightly,  and  serve  garnished  with  a  few 
sprigs  of  fresh'  parsley. 

615.  P icicle  for  Beef  a  la  Garrick. — Take  twenty  pounds 
of  salt,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  saltpetre,  four  cakes  of  sal 
prunella,  two  pounds  of  moist  sugar,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  with 
which  rub  the  meat  well,  and  leave  it  rather  more  than  a  week, 
rubbing  and  turning  it  over  every  day. 

This  pickle  is  adapted  for  anything  that  is  required  red. 


616.  Spiced  Beef. — Procure  a  piece  of  thin  flank  of  beef 
about  ten  pounds  in  weight,  which  salt  as  the  last  for  about  a 
week ;  when  ready,  split  it  open  with  a  knife  and  lay  it  out  flat 
upon  a  dresser,  having  previously  prepared  six  onions  chopped 
very  fine,  with  about  ten  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  the  leaves  of  ten 
sprigs  of  thyme,  the  same  of  marjoram,  two  ounces  of  mixed 
spice  (without  cinnamon),  and  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper, 
mix  altogether,  spread  half  upon  the  beef  as  it  lays  before  you, 
then  fold  it  over  to  its  original  shape,  lay  on  the  remainder  of 
the  preparation,  roll  it  up  tightly  in  a  cloth,  boil,  press,  and 
serve  as  directed  in  the  last  article. 


SAVORY    DISHES.  243 


617.  Pig's  Head  in  imitation  of  Wild  Boar's  Head. — 
This  you  will  say  is  not  only  a  difficult  dish  to  do,  but  a  very  expensive  one. 
You  are  right  when  you  are  obliged  to  buy  the  pig  to  possess  the  head ; 
but  in  a  small  farm-house  where  they  kill  a  pig  perhaps  once  a  year  at 
Christmas,  the  head  can  be  very  easily  cut  off  for  this  purpose.  Being 
on  a  visit  some  years  since  at  a  farm-house,  I  had  the  opportunity  of 
having  one,  and  trying  my  skill  upon  it ;  it  was  much  approved  of,  both 
for  its  ferocious  appearance,  and  its  flavor,  and  it  lasted  good  for  three 
weeks. 

The  following  is  the  way  you  should  do  it :  procure  the  head 
with  as  much  of  the  neck  attached  to  it  as  possible  (the  hog 
must  have  been  stabbed  in  the  neck,  not  hit  on  the  head  as  that 
would  have  broken  the  skull) ;  then  singe  it  well  over  the  flame 
of  a  fire,  then  wipe  it  with  a  cloth,  scrape  well  with  a  knife 
without  scratching  the  skin,  and  place  it  on  a  cloth  upon  its 
skull ;  open  it  very  carefully  without  piercing  the  skin, 
leaving  no  flesh  whatever  upon  the  bones ;  bone  the  neck  of 
the  pig,  and  cut  it  into  small  fillets  two  inches  long,  place  the 
head  on  a  board  and  rub  it  with  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar, 
let  it  remain  for  one  hour ;  then  place  it  in  a  salting  tub,  and 
throw  over  it  six  pounds  of  salt,  place  in  two  quarts  of  ale,  four 
bay-leaves,  half  an  ounce  of  peppercorns,  a  quarter  ditto  of 
cloves,  six  blades  of  mace,  eight  sliced  onions,  ten  sprigs  of 
thyme,  ten  of  winter  savory,  and  two  sliced  carrots ;  stir  it  well 
up,  and  let  it  remain  for  two  hours ;  then  pour  over  the  head, 
which  turn  every  day  for  eight  or  ten  days,  rubbing  it  well ; 
when  sufficiently  salted,  take  it  out  and  dry  it  on  a  cloth,  lay 
the  head  straight  before  you,  skin  side  upwards ;  have  ready 
six  or  eight  pounds  of  forcemeat,  but  using  pork  instead  of 
veal,  with  which  cover  the  head  an  inch  in  thickness  at  the 
thinnest  part;  put  the  fillets  cut  from  the  neck  in  a  layer 
lengthwise  in  the  head,  with  a  long  piece  of  fat  bacon,  half  an 
inch  square,  between  each,  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  eschalots, 
pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg  over,  and  continue  filling  with 
forcemeat  and  the  other  ingredients  until  you  have  used  the 
whole,  finishing  by  covering  forcemeat  over ;  join  the  two  cheeks 
together  with  the  above  in  the  interior,  sew  it  up  with  pack- 
thread, giving  it  the  shape  of  the  head  as  much  as  possible, 
and  fold  it  in  one  or  two  large  thin  cloths,  leaving  the  ears  out 
and  upright. 

Braise  as  follows :    Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  large  braising-pan 
or  etock-pot,  over  which  put  four  pounds  of  trimmings  of  pork  or  knuckle 


244  SAVORY    DISHES. 


of  veal,  eight  onions,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  eight  bay-leaves,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  peppercorns,  twelve  cloves,  ten  sprigs  of  thyme,  ten  of  mar- 
joram, four  blades  of  mace,  half  a  bottle  of  bucellas  wine,  and  four  call's 
feet,  place  it  upon  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  it  occasionally,  until  the  bottom 
is  covered  with  a  clearish  glaze,  then  add  four  gallons  of  water  and  half 
a  pound  of  salt ;  when  boiling  draw  it  to  the  corner  of  the  stove,  skim, 
and  put  in  the  head,  the  ears  uppermost,  and  let  simmer  seven  or  eight 
hours,  or  according  to  the  size  and  age  of  the  pig ;  but  the  better  plan 
would  be  to  try  it  with  a  trussing-needle ;  if  tender  it  is  done ;  skim  the 
stock,  in  which  leave  the  head  until  half  cold,  when  take  it  out,  partly 
undo  the  cloths,  and  tie  it  again  tighter  if  possible,  and  press  it  in  a  cover 
or  upon  a  baking-sheet  with  three  flat  pieces  of  wood,  one  at  each  side, 
with  a  weight  against  them,  and  one  upon  the  top  between  the  ears,  on 
which  place  a  fourteen  pounds  weight,  let  it  remain  all  night  until  quite 
cold,  when  take  it  out  of  the  cloths,  detach  the  thread  it  was  sewn  up 
with,  cut  a  piece  an  inch  in  thickness  from  behind  the  ears  (from  which 
part  it  must  be  carved  in  as  thin  slices  as  possible),  it  will  have  a  marbled 
appearance ;  trim  the  head  a  little,  setting  the  ears  in  a  proper  position, 
glaze  it  with  a  brownish  glaze,  form  the  eyes  with  a  little  lard  and  a 
few  black  currants  round,  and  the  tusks  with  paste,  baking  them ;  have 
some  very  fresh  tulips  and  roses,  which  stick  tastefully  in  the  ears  and 
some  around,  but  leaving  space  to  carve ;  garnish  boldly  with  croutons, 
aspic,  made  from  the  stock  clarified  as  directed  (No.  608) ;  the  meat  and 
the  calf's  foot  may  be  used  for  different  dishes,  see  receipts. 

The  second  one  I  had  I  boiled  plainer,  merely  a  little  salt  and 
a  few  vegetables  ;  it  was  very  good,  but  not  so  rich  in  flavor  as 
the  other ;  thus  saving  expense  and  trouble.  They  should  be 
eaten  with  the  following  sauce  : 

Boar's  Head  Sauce. — Cut  the  rind  (free  from  pith)  of  two 
Seville  oranges  into  very  thin  strips  half  an  inch  in  length,  which 
blanch  in  boiling  water,  drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  and  put  them 
into  a  basin,  with  a  spoonful  of  mixed  English  mustard,  four  of 
currant  jelly,  a  little  pepper,  salt  (mix  well  together),  and  half 
a  pint  of  good  port  wine. 


LETTER  No.  XV. 

DEAR  ELOISE, — To  you,  who  are  so  fond  of  lobster,  the  following  re- 
ceipt will,  I  am  confident,  prove  roost  valuable.  To  make  sure  of  its 
quality,  buy  one  heavy  in  proportion  to  its  size ;  or,  perhaps,  entre  nous, 
you  would  prefer  to  wait  until  a  friend  presented  you  with  one. 

LOBSTER. — This  fish,  which  is  continually  before  our  eyes,  and  only 
looked  upon  as  an  article  of  food,  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  wonders 


SAVORY    DISHES.  245 


of  the  creation.  A  creature  destitute  of  bones,  yet  furnished  with  a 
stomach  capable  of  digesting  the  hardest  substances,  even  its  own  shell, 
which  it  doffs  once  a  year,  when  it  is  too  small  for  it ;  without  blood 
circulating  through  its  body,  yet  strong  and  active.  This  is  only  one  of 
those  wonders  of  the  mighty  deep  that  we  cannot  but  regard  with  awe 
and  veneration,  and  yet  the  principal  interest  they  do  excite  is  when  we 
visit  a  shell-fish  shop  to  choose  the  largest  and  best  for  the  smallest 
price.  They  are,  without  doubt,  a  very  nourishing  aliment,  and  are  by 
many  supposed  to  have  a  particular  season,  but  which  I  believe  not  to 
be  the  case,  as  I  have  known  them  in  and  out  of  season  on  the  same 
ground.  When  out  of  season,  the  pea  or  spawn  is  very  large,  and  about 
being  hatched ;  immediately  after  which  it  sheds  its  shell,  and  not  its 
stomach,  as  is  by  many  supposed.  When  in  season,  and  fine-flavored, 
it  should  have  no  spawn,  or  very  little,  under  the  tail ;  and  when  its 
body  is  squeezed  between  the  fingers  it  should  not  give,  but  be  hard ; 
its  weight  will  also  be  a  test,  as  it  is  a  fish  which  wastes  very  much 
when  kept  long  alive  without  food :  great  care  must  be  observed  in  the 
boiling  of  it.  A  number  should  be  placed  at  one  time  in  a  basket,  and 
that  placed  in  boiling  water,  adding  half  a  pound  of  salt  to  every  gallon 
of  water,  with  a  heavy  weight  upon  it ;  if  overdone,  they  eat  tough  and 
thready ;  if  underdone,  unwholesome  and  unpalatable.  One  weighing 
a  pound  will  take  fifteen  minutes,  and  so  on  in  proportion. 

618.  Gratin  of  Lobster. — Procure  a  good-sized  lobster,  cut 
it  in  half,  detaching  the  head  from  the  body ;  take  out  all  the 
meat,  and  save  the  four  shells ;  cut  the  meat  into  slices,  then 
take  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two  walnuts,  pass  them  a  few  minutes 
over  the  fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well  in),  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  stir  over  the  fire,  boiling  about  five  minutes,  then 
add  the  lobster,  which  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  chopped 
parsley,  and  essence  of  anchovies ;  stand  it  again  upon  the  fire, 
stirring  until  boiling,  then  stir  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  take  off 
the  fire,  fill  the  shells  of  the  lobster,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over, 
with  a  little  butter,  put  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes ;  dish  on 
a  napkin  and  serve.  To  give  it  a  nice  color,  use  the  salamander. 


619.  Miroton  Salad  of  Lobster. — Prepare  and  ornament  a 
border  of  eggs,  like 'for  that  of  game,  put  a  thick  layer  of  fresh 
salad  in  the  centre,  and  dress  over  it  in  a  crown,  the  lobster  in- 
terspersed with  slices  of  eggs  and  gherkins.  The  lobster  must 
be  divided  in  two  across  the  back,  extract  the  meat  carefully  out 
of  it,  and  cut  it  in  a  round  or  slanting  direction  to  the  thickness 
of  a  crown  piece,  break  the  claws  and  cut  the  same  way,  and 


246  SAVORY   DISHES. 


place  on  salad  as  above,  so  as  to  form  a  thick  crown  near  the 
border  of  eggs,  then  take  the  interior  of  the  lobster,  pound  it 
and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  add  to  your  sauce. 

Any  other  kind  of  fish,  as  cod  fish,  &c.,  when  cold,  cut  or 
break  them  in  slices,  lay  them  in  a  basin,  season  over  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  slices  of  onion,  parsley,  a  little  oil  and  vinegar ; 
put  it  in  two  hours  before  serving,  and  proceed  as  for  lobster. 

If  there  is  any  fish  left  from  the  previous  day,  I  always  make 
a  salad  of  it,  particularly  in  summer ;  there  are  many  who  object 
to  so  much  oil,  in  which  case  it  may  be  diminished. 

620.  Salad  Tartar. — Make  as  usual  the  border  of  eggs  and 
sauce,  lay  the  salad  in  the  middle  and  the  lobster  over,  which 
has  been  previously  cut  in  slices ;  pour  over  some  of  the  same 
sauce  as  above,  having  added  a  tablespoonful  of  French  mustard 
to  it.  Gherkins  cut  in  slices,  and  a  few  stoned  olives. 


621.  Plain  Salad. — Take  a  lobster  and  any  kind  of  salad, 
wash  it  well,  dry  in  a  cloth,  cut  the  lobster  up  in  a  salad-bowl, 
sprinkle  over  it  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  that  of  pepper,  one  of 
chopped  tarragon  or  chervil,  or  parsley,  if  nothing  better,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  and  two  of  common  vinegar,  but  only  one 
and  a  half  if  French,  add  the  salad,  stir  lightly  round  with  a 
wooden  knife  and  fork,  and  it  is  ready. 

622.  Lobster  served  plain. — Break  the  tail  from  the  body, 
cut  the  tail  in  two  lengthwise,  put  the  body  in  the  middle  of 
the  dish,  lay  the  half  tail  top  and  bottom,  and  the  claws  on  the 
side ;  the  shell  previously  broken,  but  not  disfigured,  and  serve 
double  parsley  round. 

623.  Lobster  Salad. — Dress  a  border  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  as 
directed  in  salad  of  game  (No.  628),  fill  the  centre  with  some 
nice  fresh  salad,  then  take  the  flesh  from  a  middling-sized  lobster, 
which  cut  into  as  large  slices  as  possible,  which  put  into  a  basin, 
and  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  oil,  and  vinegar,  after  which 
dress  them  pyramidically  upon  the  salad,  and  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  put  the  yolks  of  two  fresh  eggs  in  a  basin, 


SAVORY    DISHES.  24*7 


with  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  one  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  add 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  that  quantity  of  white  pepper, 
and  commence  stirring  round  with  a  wooden  spoon  with  the 
right  hand,  holding  a  bottle  of  salad  oil  in  the  left,  dropping  it 
in  by  degrees  and  continually  stirring,  and  when  becoming  thick- 
ish  add  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of  common  vinegar  by  degrees, 
still  keeping  it  stirred,  then  more  oil,  proceeding  thus  until  you 
have  used  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  oil,  and  a  corresponding 
quantity  of  vinegar,  by  continually  working,  it  will  form  a  stiffish 
cream-looking  sauce  perfectly  smooth ;  add  a  little  more  season- 
ing if  required,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  with  half 
that  quantity  of  chopped  eschalots,  pour  over  the  lobster  and 
serve.  Should  the  sauce  curdle  in  making,  the  operation  must 
be  again  performed,  putting  a  yolk  of  an  egg  into  another  basin, 
working  it  with  a  little  oil  until  forming  a  stiffish  paste,  when 
stir  in  the  curdled  sauce  by  degrees  until  the  whole  becomes 
smooth ;  always  choose  a  cool  place  to  make  it  in. 


624.  Fish  Salads. — All  fish  salads  are  made  precisely  as  in 
the  last,  but  with  the  exception  of  fillets  of  sole  salad,  are  made 
from  the  remains  of  fish  from  a  previous  dinner,  especially  turbot 
and  salmon ;  but  for  fillets  of  soles  they  must  be  dressed  thus : — 

When  filleted,  melt  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  lay  the 
fillets  in,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon ;  saute  them  on  a  slow  fire  until  done,  which  may  be 
from  four  to  five  minutes,  and  put  by  to  get  cold ;  cut  in  mid- 
dle-sized pieces,  and  use  as  lobster. 


625.  New  Mayonnaise  Sauce. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
melted  aspic  upon  ice  in  a  stewpan,  which  keep  whisking  until 
becoming  a  white  froth,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  salad  oil  and 
six  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  by  degrees,  first  oil  and  then 
vinegar,  continually  whisking  until  it  forms  a  white  smooth 
sauce,  to  all  appearance  like  a  cream ;  season  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  and  a  little  sugar, 
whisk  it  a  little  more,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve ;  it  is  usually 
dressed  pyramidically  over  the  article  it  is  served  with.  The 
advantage  of  this  sauce  (which  is  more  delicate  than  any  other) 
is,  that  you  may  dress  it  to  any  height  you  like  and  it  will 


248  SAVORY    DISHES. 


remain  so  for  a  long  time ;  if  the  temperature  is  not  too  hot  it 
will  remain  hours  without  melting  or  appearing  greasy. 


626.  Tartar  Sauce. — Rub  the  yolk  of  a  cold  hard-boiled 
egg  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  to  which  add  the  yolks 
of  two  raw  eggs,  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper ;  mix  all  together 
with  a  wooden  spoon ;  have  a  pint  of  good  salad  oil  in  a  bottle, 
hold  it  with  the  left  hand  over  the  basin,  dropping  it  in  very 
gradually,  and  with  the  right  continue  stirring  it  round  until  it 
becomes  rather  thick,  then  moisten  it  with  a  little  tarragon 
vinegar,  still  keeping  it  stirred,  then  more  oil,  and  so  on  until 
you  have  used  all  the  oil,  keeping  it  rather  thick  ;  then  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  gherkins,  half  a  ditto  of  chopped 
capers,  half  a  ditto  of  chopped  eschalots,  and  the  same  of 
chopped  parsley,  two  of  French  mustard,  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
per, sugar,  and  more  salt  if  required ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 
This  sauce  requires  to  be  rather  highly  seasoned.  Common 
vinegar  may  be  used. 


627.  Salmon  in  marinade. — Have  two  good  slices  of  salmon 
cut  about  four  inches  and  a  half  in  thickness,  in  a  stewpan  have 
three  onions  cut  in  slices,  as  also  a  turnip,  a  carrot,  a  head  of 
celery  cut  small,  a  good  half  handful  of  parsley,  two  bay-leaves, 
and  two  ounces  of  butter ;  pass  the  whole  ten  minutes  over  a 
sharp  fire,  then  add  a  pint  of  vinegar,  a  blade  of  mace,  half  a 
dozen  peppercorns,  and  one  ounce  of  salt;  let  simmer,  then 
add  three  pints  of  water,  put  in  the  salmon,  which  simmer 
gently  about  half  an  hour,  and  leave  in  the  marinade  until 
cold,  when  serve  with  a  little  of  the  marinade  strained  through 
a  hair  sieve  in  the  dish.  Trout,  mackerel,  herrings,  sprats,  and 
fillets  of  sole  or  brill,  are  also  very  nice  cooked  in  the  same 
manner.  A  part  of  the  above  marinade  may  be  made  at  any 
time,  and  almost  any  kind  of  fish  remaining  from  a  previous 
dinner  may  be  done  the  same,  and  eaten  cold. 


628.  Salad  of  Game. — Boil  eight  eggs  hard,  shell  them, 
throw  them  into  cold  water,  cut  a  thin  slice  off'  the  bottom  to 
facilitate-  the  proper  placing  of  them  in  the  dish,  cut  each  one 
into  four,  lengthwise,  make  a  very  thin  flat  border  of  butter 


SAVORY    DISHES.  249 


about  one  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  dish  you  are  going  to 
serve  them  on ;  fix  the  pieces  of  egg  upright,  close  to  each 
other,  the  yolk  outside,  or  alternately  the  white  and  yolk ;  you 
lay  in  the  centre  a  layer  of  fresh  salad  that  may  be  in  season, 
and  having  previously  roasted  a  young  grouse  rather  underdone, 
which  you  cut  into  eight  or  ten  pieces,  then  prepare  sauce  as 
follows  :  put  a  spoonful  of  eschalots,  finely  chopped,  in  a  basin, 
one  ditto  of  pounded  sugar,  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  tarragon,  or  chervil,  and  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  salt,  mix  in  by  degrees  with  a  wooden  spoon,  four 
spoonfuls  of  oil  and  two  of  Chili  vinegar ;  when  all  mixed,  put 
it  on  ice,  or  in  a  cold  place ;  when  ready  to  serve  up,  whip  a 
gill  of  cream  rather  thick,  which  lightly  mix  with  it,  then  lay 
the  inferior  parts  of  the  grouse  on  the  salad,  sauce  over  so  as 
to  cover  each  piece,  then  lay  over  the  salad  and  the  remainder 
of  the  grouse ;  sauce  over,  and  serve.  The  eggs  may  be  orna- 
mented with  a  little  dot  of  radishes  on  the  point,  or  beet-root. 
Anchovy  and  gherkin,  cut  into  small  diamonds,  may  be  placed 
between,  or  cut  gherkins  in  slices,  and  lay  a  border  of  them 
round,  or  in  any  way  your  fancy  may  dictate. 


629.  Salad  of  Fowl. — Proceed  as  for  that  of  game,  so  far 
as  the  eggs  and  the  salad  are  concerned ;  then  have  a  chicken, 
which  has  been  previously  plain  roasted,  or  in  vegetables,  and 
cut  it  into  ten  pieces,  put  it  into  a  basin,  season  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
oil,  one  of  vinegar,  one  onion  sliced,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  chopped 
parsley,  mix  them  well,  and  let  them  remain  for  a  few  hours, 
if  time  will  permit.  Take  the  pieces  of  chicken,  and  place 
in  a  dish  with  salad,  as  directed  for  grouse,  with  the  sauce,  <kc., 
and  serve.  Nothing  is  better  for  ball-suppers  than  these  kinds 
of  dishes ;  they  may  be  made  of  all  kinds  of  solid  fish,  and 
the  sauce  is  excellent ;  any  kind  of  cold  meat,  dressed  round 
with  the  sauce,  may  be  served  for  supper  or  luncheon.  It  may 
be  served  with  the  same  sauce  or  dressing  as  for  Lobster  Salad 
(or  No.  623),  or  make  the  following  one,  which  differs  a  little : — 
Put  into  a  middle-sized,  round-bottomed  basin  the  yolk  of  two 
eggs,  half  a  spoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  one  of  pepper,  half  a 
one  of  sugar,  ditto  of  fine  chopped  onions,  ditto  of  parsley,  or 
of  tarragon,  or  of  chervil,  stir  with  the  right  hand  with  a 
11* 


250  SAVORY    DISHES. 


wooden  spoon,  while  you  pour  some  oil  out  of  the  bottle  by 
keeping  your  thumb  on  its  mouth,  so  that  it  runs  out  very 
slowly ;  when  a  few  spoonfuls  are  in  it,  it  will  become  quite 
stiff ;  pour  also  by  degrees  a  few  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  so 
on  until  you  have  made  enough  for  your  salad  ;  try  if  the  flavor 
is  good  and  relishing,  as  the  quality  of  these  two  last  ingredi- 
ents varies  so  much,  that  I  must  leave  it  to  your  more  simple 
and  correct  judgment.  If  you  should  fail  at  first,  try  again 
until  you  succeed,  and  I  am  certain  you  will  be  delighted  with 
the  result ;  it  ought  to  be  made  in  a  cold  place,  particularly  in 
summer.  Great  taste  should  be  observed  in  the  decoration  of 
the  border. 


SHELL  FISH. 

Prawns  are  best  when  very  red  and  have  no  spawn  under  the  tail. 

The  Escalop  is  a  fish  very  little  used,  but  is  exceedingly  fine ;  it  is  in 
season  at  the  same  time  as  the  oyster.  It  can  be  cooked  in  a  variety 
of  ways,  but  previous  to  doing  which,  it  should  be  kept  some  time  in 
salt  water,  so  that  it  may  free  itself  from  any  sand  that  may  be  in  it ; 
when  opened,  all  the  beard  should  be  removed,  and  only  the  white,  red, 
and  black  parts  used;  it  may  be  cooked  and  used  in  every  way  like 
oysters,  and  is  excellent  with  matelote  of  any  kind  of  fish. 

Razor  Shell  Fish  or  Solen  Fish. — This  is  the  aulo  of  the  Romans, 
and  a  beautiful  eating  fish.  It  should  also  be  cooked  like  oysters,  and 
makes  most  excellent  and  strengthening  soup. 

OYSTERS. — No  oyster  should  be  eaten  under  four  years  old ;  their 
age  is  known  by  their  shell — -just  the  same  as  the  age  of  a  tree  is  known 
by  its  bark,  or  a  fish  by  its  scale,  and  the  small  oyster  has  the  finest 
flavor. 

630.  Escaloped  Oysters. — Put  two  dozen  of  oysters  with 
their  liquor  into  a  stewpan,  place  over  a  fire,  and  when  a  little 
firm,  drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  catching  the  liquor  in  another 
stewpan ;  detach  the  beard  from  the  oysters,  and  throw  them 
again  into  their  liquor ;  add  half  a  blade  of  mace,  place  again 
upon  the  fire,  and,  when  boiling,  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ; 
shake  round  over  the  fire  until  becoming  thick,  season  with  a 


SAVORY    DISHES.  251 


little  cayenne,  and  salt  if  required ;  have  an  escalop  shell,  well 
buttered  and  bread-crumbed;  place  the  oysters  in,  sprinkle 
bread-crumbs  over,  put  it  in  the  oven  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
pass  the  salamander  over,  and  serve.  The  yolk  of  eggs  may 
be  added,  and  less  flour. 

631.  Stewed  Oysters. — Blanch  and  beard  the  oysters  as 
above ;  when  done,  put  them  with  their  liquor  in  a  stewpan, 
with  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  essence 
of  anchovies,  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  cayenne ;  let  sim- 
mer a  minute,  stir  in  two  pats  of  butter  with  which  you  have 
mixed  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  let  simmer  a  little  longer, 
lay  the  oysters  in  your  dish  upon  a  piece  of  toast,  and  sauce 
over. 


632.  Shrimps. — Of  these  there  are  several  varieties ;  a  diversity  of 
opinion  exists  amongst  epicures  of  this  little  animal  which  is  the  best ; 
but  in  my  opinion  a  great  deal  depends  on  the  manner  of  boiling,  and 
their  freshness. 

The  following  is  the  plan :  I  prefer  them  boiled ;  to  one  gal- 
lon of  water  put  two  ounces  of  salt,  one  sprig  of  lemon  thyme 
and  one  of  mint,  and  let  it  boil ;  when  boiling  hard,  put  one 
quart  of  shrimps  into  an  open  wire  or  wicker  basket  with  a  han- 
dle, and  place  it  in  the  water :  the  time  they  take  to  boil  de- 
pends on  the  size  of  the  fish,  but  may  be  known  by  their 
changing  color ;  be  particular  not  to  boil  them  too  much,  or 
they  will  be  tasteless  and  indigestible. 


633.  Forcemeat. — You  will  find  this  receipt  so  useful,  and  so  often  in 
use  in  made  dishes,  soups,  fish,  entrees,  &c.,  that  I  must  beg  of  you  to 
devote  to  it  your  personal  attention ;  and  being  rather  difficult  to  exe- 
cute, be  present  when  your  cook  makes  it,  that  she  may  follow  strictly 
the  receipt,  which  I  flatter  myself  is  rather  original. 

Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  veal,  and  cut  it  in  long  thin 
slices,  scrape  with  a  knife  till  nothing  but  the  skin  remains  ;  put 
it  in  a  mortar,  pound  it  ten  minutes,  or  until  in  a  puree,  pass  it 
through  a  wire  sieve  (use  the  remainder  in  stock),  then  take  one 
pound  of  good  fresh  beef  suet,  which  shred  and  chop  very  fine, 
put  it  in  your  mortar  and  pound  it,  then  add  six  ounces  of 


252  SAVORY   DISHES. 


panada  (made  as  under)  with  the  suet,  pound  them  well  to- 
gether, and  add  the  veal,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a  quarter  one  of  pepper,  half  that  of  nutmeg,  work  all  well  to- 
gether, then  add  five  eggs  by  degrees,  continually  pounding  the 
contents  of  the  mortar ;  when  well  mixed,  take  a  small  piece  in 
a  spoon,  and  poach  it  in  some  boiling  water,  and  if  it  is  delicate, 
firm  and  a  good  flavor,  it  is  ready  for  use ;  if  you  require  some 
very  delicate,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  or  even 
thick  melted  butter ;  you  can  vary  the  flavor  by  the  addition  of 
a  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  eschalot,  mushroom,  <fec.,  the 
flesh  of  rabbit  or  fowl,  or  hare,  pheasant,  grouse,  &c.,  if  plenti- 
ful, may  be  added,  using  the  ingredients  in  proportion.  One 
quarter  of  this  quantity  may  be  made  if  required. 

634.  Panada  for  Forcemeats. — Put  two  thirds  of  half  a  pint 
of  water  into  a  stewpan  holding  a  quart,  with  nearly  an  ounce 
of  butter ;  when  boiling,  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour ; 
keep  it  moving  over  the  fire  until  it  forms  a  smooth  and  tough- 
ish  paste ;  take  it  out  of  the  stewpan,  and  when  cold  use  it 
where  directed. 

635.  Forcemeats  of  Fish. — These  are  much  in  use  in  France 
and  other  Catholic  countries,  especially  in  Lent,  but  they  are  a 
very  excellent  garnish  for  entrees  of  fish ;  they  may  be  made  of 
the  flesh  of  almost  all  kinds  of  fish,  more  particularly  the  pike, 
salmon,  trout,  sole,  haddock,  and  the  whiting,  which  last  is  the 
most  delicate. 


636.  Forcemeat  of  Whitings. — Take  the  fillets  of  three 
whitings,  take  off  all  the  skin,  and  pound  them  well,  then  take 
them  from  the  mortar,  and  form  them  into  a  ball ;  have  a  piece 
of  panada  (No.  634)  one  third  the  size  of  the  ball,  put  the 
panada  into  the  mortar,  pound  it  well,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  which  mix  well  with  the  panada,  then  add  the  fish, 
season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  mix  all 
well  together,  then  add  by  degrees  three  whole  eggs  and  the 
yolks  of  two,  try  it  in  a  little  boiling  water  as  directed  for  the 
forcemeat  of  veal.  These  are  served  generally  as  a  meagre 
dish  with  a  fish  sauce,  in  Catholic  families,  especially  in  Lent 
time. 


VEGETABLES.  253 


637.  Stuffing  for  Veal. — Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet 
very  fine,  put  it  in  a  basin,  with  eight  ounces  of  bread-crumbs, 
four  ounces  of  chopped  parsley,  a  tablespoonful  of  equal  quan- 
tities of  powdered  thyme  and  marjoram,  and  a  bay-leaf,  the  rind 
of  a  lemon  grated,  and  the  juice  of  half  one  ;  season  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  one  quarter  of  a  nutmeg ;  mix  the  whole  with 
three  whole  eggs ;  this  will  do  also  to  stuff  turkey  or  baked 
fish,  adding  some  more  chopped  parsley. 


VEGETABLES. 

IN  describing  to  you  the  different  ways  these  may  be  dressed,  I  beg  of 
you  to  make  a  constant  use  of  them  at  your  own  table,  as  you  will  find 
they  will  be  much  better  than  partaking  of  half-raw  greens,  cabbage, 
turnip-tops,  spinach,  <fcc.,  and  are  less  inviting  in  flavor,  and,  consequently, 
do  not  get  consumed  so  much  as  they  ought,  which  causes  more  meat 
to  be  eaten,  and  instead  of  refreshing  the  blood,  as  all  vegetables  will 
do  in  their  season,  only  irritate  it.  Do  not  misunderstand  me  respect- 
ing our  English  way  of  partaking  of  plain  boiled  vegetables  ;  I  do  not 
wish  you  to  give  them  up  entirely,  but  by  adopting  both  plans,  you  will 
find  it  a  great  advantage  in  our  domestic  cookery.  For  my  part,  I  do 
not  object  to  our  plain  boiled  vegetables,  but  merely  to  the  neglectful 
way  they  are  cooked  and  served  up,  often  swimming  in  water.  In 
France,  no  family  in  the  middle  station  of  life  ever  dines  without  a  dish 
of  dressed  vegetables,  upon  which  as  much  care  has  been  bestowed  in 
cooking  as  upon  the  principal  dish  of  the  dinner,  and  is  often  eaten 
alone. 

638.  Asparagus. — I  cook  it  thus:  I  take  a  bundle  and 
scrape  lightly  all  the  white  part,  beginning  from  the  head  down, 
and  throw  them  when  done  into  cold  water,  then  tie  them  up 
in  bundles  of  twenty-five  each,  if  an  ordinary  size,  if  very  large, 
half  that  number,  keeping  the  heads  together,  and  cut  off  the 
ends  to  make  them  the  same  length  ;  have  ready  a  pan  contain- 
ing one  gallon  of  boiling  water,  in  which  has  been  thrown  two 
ounces  of  salt,  boil  quickly  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  tender ; 
dish  them  up  with  a  piece  of  toast  in  the  middle,  keep  the 
heads  in  the  centre,  and  form  a  pyramid.  Serve  very  hot,  with 
rich  melted  butter,  or  cream  sauce. 

The  queen  of  all  vegetables,  to  my  fancy,  is  asparagus.  This  may 
almost  be  said  to  be  a  modern  vegetable  in  this  country,  and  it  is  one 


254  VEGETABLES. 


which  requires  less  cooking  than  perhaps  any  other,  and  is  considered 
exceedingly  wholesome. 

639.  Young  Green  Peas — Young  Green  Peas !  Do  not  those  words 
sound  pleasant  to  the  ear,  dearest  ?  I  fancy  that  by  merely  raising  my 
eyes  from  the  paper  on  which  I  am  now  writing,  I  shall  see  all  our  gar- 
den in  buds  and  blossom ;  it  not  only  seems  to  invigorate  the  sensitive 
part  of  one's  appetite,  but  works  upon  the  mind  to  that  point  that  you 
may  actually  fancy  you  are  breathing  in  a  glowing  atmosphere,  and  that 
the  pearly  dew  is  gracefully  descending  in  small  globules  from  heaven, 
to  fix  their  sparkling  eyes  on  the  pinky  bloom  of  myriads  of  roses.  But, 
alas !  how  soon  this  charming  illusion  has  disappeared  since  I  have  left 
for  a  moment  the  sight  of  my  paper  to  give  a  peep  through  the  garden 
window,  where  I  perceive  that  though  to-day  is  the  17th  of  April,  the 
serious  and  uncheerful  Father  Winter  has  once  more  monopolized  those 
delightful  and  varigated  nuances  of  Nature,  by  laying  out  his  universal 
snowy  tablecloth  over  this  for  the  present  ephemeral  vision  which  the 
inviting  words  green  peas  had  produced  upon  my  senses ;  no  doubt  the 
effect  of  a  good  fire  in  my  parlor,  where  I  am  now  sitting,  has  had  a 
great  influence  upon  me  respecting  the  summery  temperature  ;  but  as  a 
few  weeks  longer  will  realize  my  wishes,  I  shall  here  content  myself  by 
giving  'you  the  receipt  how  they  ought  to  be  cooked  when  you  can  get 
them. 

When  very  young,  I  like  them  plain  boiled,  because  their 
original  flavor  is  so  fresh  and  delicate,  that  any  addition,  except 
a  little  very  fresh  butter,  would  be  certain  to  destroy  their  aro- 
ma ;  I  even  object  to  the  introduction  of  green  mint,  though  I 
do  not  want  to  deprive  you  of  it,  being  only  a  matter  of  taste. 

Put  two  quarts  of  water  to  boil,  with  half  an  ounce  of  salt, 
and  then  place  in  one  pint  of  peas,  boil  a  full  gallop  till  tender 
(about  ten  minutes),  put  in  a  colander,  drain  one  minute ;  lay 
them,  raised  in  the  centre,  in  a  dish,  put  in  them  two  pats  of 
very  fresh  butter,  and  serve. 

When  older  or  larger,  boil  a  little  longer,  add  twelve  leaves 
of  green  mint,  which  serve  with  it. 


640.  Peas,  French  way. — They  do  not  look  so  inviting,  not 
being  so  green ;  but  I  must  say  they  are  excellent  as  regards 
flavor.  Choose  them  young  and  fresh  ;  without  both  of  these 
qualities,  they  would  not  cook  properly.  Put  in  a  pint  of  cold 
water,  mix  the  peas  and  butter  well  with  your  hand,  add  four 
button  onions,  a  bouquet  of  six  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  ounce  of 
sugar,  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  one  of  pepper,  put  it  over  a 


VEGETABLES.  255 


tolerably  good  fire,  moving  them  often ;  if  getting  rather  dry, 
add  a  wineglassful  of  water,  twenty  minutes  ought  to  be  enough 
when  tender;  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  in  which  you  have 
mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  which  put  in  it,  and  stir  it  well ; 
make  a  liaison  of  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of 
cream,  which  add  and  stir,  take  out  the  parsley  and  onions,  and 
serve. 

Another  way. — When  large,  I  stew  them  with  two  cabbage- 
lettuces  cut  in  two,  and  stew  longer,  put  in  four  wineglassfuls  of 
water,  or  more  if  required,  and  finish  as  above. 

To  keep  their  color,  I  often  proceed  thus  for  entrees  or  second 
courses :  I  plain  boil  as  above,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with 
four  small  onions,  a  little  mint,  parsley,  butter,  sugar,  and  a  drop 
of  water,  simmer  a  few  minutes,  add  as  above  the  flour,  butter, 
and  liaison,  and  serve ;  they  are  very  good  this  way,  but  not  so 
rich  in  flavor. 

There  are  different  kinds,  but  I  prefer  the  Prussian  Blue 
above  all. 


641.  Seakale. — Proceed  exactly  as  for  asparagus  for  boiling, 
but  previously  to  boiling  cut  out  the  black  part  of  the  roots, 
and  well  wash  and  tie  it  together,  and  serve  with  the  same 
sauce  as  asparagus.  There  is  a  kind  of  seakale  that  is  rank 
and  stringy,  and  not  worth  eating ;  it  may  be  known,  when 
raw,  by  the  outside  near  the  root,  which  is  very  tough  and 
hard. 


642.  Sprue-grass. — The  longer  the  green  part  the  better  the 
sprue ;  take  each  piece  and  gently  bend  it,  and  it  will  break  off 
at  that  part  which  you  require,  beyond  it  is  too  hard,  and  can- 
not be  eaten ;  when  you  thus  have  the  pieces,  cut  them  into 
lengths  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  which  well  wash ;  have  one 
gallon  of  water,  into  which  put  one  ounce  of  salt,  and  boil, 
then  put  in  the  sprue  and  boil  for  ten  minutes,  or  till  tender, 
then  drain  on  a  sieve,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  the  same  of  salt, 
two  pinches  of  pepper,  and  place  on  the  fire,  stir  well  together, 
and  serve  hot.  The  yolk  of  an  egg,  well  beaten  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  may  be  added  to  it ;  and  when  serving, 


256  VEGETABLES. 


also  two  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  or  melted  butter, — but  I 
always  do  it  as  the  first. 

643.  Celery. — Cut  about  ten  heads  of  large  celery  from  six 
to  seven  inches  long,  trim  the  outside  and  cut  the  root  to  a 
point,  wash  it  very  well  between  the  leaves,  tie  three  together, 
put  a  gallon  of  water,  with  two  ounces  of  salt,  to  boil,  then 
add  the  celery,  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  it,  put 
into  a  stewpan  a  small  slice  of  bacon,  and  lay  the  celery  on  it, 
put  it  on  the  fire  for  two  minutes,  add  one  onion  sliced,  cover 
with  broth  until  quite  tender,  then  take  it  out,  and  dish  on  a 
piece  of  toast,  pass  the  gravy  through  a  sieve  into  a  stewpan, 
skim  off  the  fat,  reduce  it  to  a  demi-glaze,  add  a  little  sugar 
and  a  small  pat  of  butter,  which  you  have  rubbed  into  some 
flour,  stir  it  well,  and  sauce  over ;  it  ought  to  be  thick,  and  of 
a  nice  brown  color,  which  produce,  if  required,  by  a  little  color- 
ing.    Marrow  may  be  served  with  it,  by  taking  two  good  pieces 
of  marrow,  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  quart  of  water,  and 
serve  on  each  side  the  celery.     It  can  also  be  cooked  plain 
boiled,  and  served  with  melted  butter  over,  and  also  boiled  in 
eight  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  six  of  broth,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  in  which  it  has  boiled  ten  minutes,  or 
until  tender ;  sauce  over  and  serve. 

644.  Salsify. — I  do  not  know  why  this  vegetable,  which  is 
held  in  such  high  estimation  on  the  Continent,  should  be  so 
little  esteemed  with  us ;  I  will  here  supply  their  manner  of 
cooking  it,  and  perhaps  you  will  give  it  a  fair  trial.     Take 
twelve  middling-sized  ones,  scrape  them  well  till  quite  white, 
rub  each  with  lemon  and  put  in  cold  water  ;  put  into  a  stew- 
pan a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  or  mutton  suet,  cut  in  small 
dice  one  onion,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
and  four  cloves,  put  on  the  fire  and  stir  for  five  minutes,  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  well,  then  add  three  pints 
of  water,  when  just  boiling  put  in  your  salsify,  simmer  till 
tender ;  they  will  take  nearly  one  hour ;  dish  on  toast,  sauce 
over  with  Dutch,  maitre  d'hotel,  or  onion  sauce,  or  a  very  good 
demi-glaze,  or  Italian  sauce.     Should  any  remain,  they  may  be 
made  into  fritters  thus :  put  the  sauce,  if  any,  in  a  basin,  add 
a  little  salt,  pepper,  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  half  a  chopped 


VEGETABLES.  25*7 


eschalot,  and  a  spoonful  of  oil,  place  in  the  salsify,  and  let  it 
remain  for  some  hours,  when  ready  to  serve,  make  a  small 
quantity  of  batter,  dip  each  piece  in  it,  and  fry  for  five  minutes 
in  lard  or  fat,  dish  up  with  fried  parsley  over. 


645.  Vegetable  Marrow. — Choose  eight  young  small  ones, 
with  smooth  skin,  and  put  them  to  boil  in  two  quarts  of  water, 
in  which  you  have  put  one  ounce  of  salt,  the  same  of  butter, 
try  with  a  needle  if  tender,  then  dish  them  tastefully  on  mashed 
potatoes  in  a  dish,  put  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  pan 
when  near  boiling,  add  a  liaison  of  a  yolk  of  an  egg,  two  pats 
of  butter,  a  little  sugar,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  sauce  over 
and  serve ;  if  they  are  rather  large,  cut  them  in  two  length- 
wise ;  if  in  smaller  pieces,  take  all  the  inside  out  and  boil  till 
tender,  and  warm  in  the  above  sauce.     You  can  also  make  a 
nice  demi-glaze,  as  No.  132,  and  let  them  simmer  in  it  for 
twenty  minutes ;  do  not  break  them,  as  they  would  then  be 
unsightly ;  they  can  be  made  into  soup  like  cauliflower  (No. 
207). 

646.  Cauliflower  and  Broccoli. — Be  very  particular  in  clean- 
ing them,  choose  them  rather  small,  thick  and  firm,  put  them 
for  one  hour  in  salt  and  water,  then  rinse  them  well  in  water, 
that  all  the  dirt  may  be  removed  from  the  interior ;  have  a  pan 
of  boiling  water,  in  which  you  have  placed  two  ounces  of  salt 
and  one  of  butter,  drain  and  use  where  indicated ;  but  if  for 
second  course,  place  them  on  a  dish  in  the  form  of  a  dome, 
and  cover  over  with  some  sauce  as  for  vegetable  marrow  or 
plain  melted  butter,  or  Soubise  sauce  if  preferred  plain ;  serve 
it  very  hot,  having  drained  it. 


647.  The  same  gratine  with  Cheese. — Put  into  a  stewpan 
ten  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  No.  130,  with  a  little  chopped 
onions,  which  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  grated  Parmesan,  or  any  mild  English  cheese ;  when 
boiling,  add  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  and  a  little  cayenne,  mix 
quick,  lay  a  little  on  a  dish,  put  two  or  three  heads  of  cauli- 
flower or  broccoli  on  it,  pour  the  remainder  of  sauce  over,  and 
a  little  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese;  put  in  oven  half 


258  VEGETABLES. 


an  hour,  give  it  a  nice  yellow  color,  and  serve ;  if  no  wliite 
sauce,  use  melted  butter,  but  do  not  boil  it  so  long,  or  it  will 
eat  rather  greasy. 

648.  Jerusalem  Artichokes. — One  of  the  best  and  most  use- 
ful vegetables  ever  introduced  to  table,  and  anything  but  ap- 
preciated as  it  deserves  to  be.     To  prove  to  you  that  I  am  a 
great  admirer  of  it,  you  will  find  it  very  often  mentioned  in  my 
receipts.     In  using  them  for  a  second  course,  I  choose  about 
twelve  of  the  same  size,  peel  them  and  shape  them  like  a  pear, 
but  flat  at  the  bottom,  wash  them  well,  boil  gently  in  three 
pints  of  water,  one  ounce  of  salt,  one  of  butter,  and  a  few  sliced 
onions ;  when  tender,  I  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on 
a  dish,  fix  them  on  it  point  upwards,  sauce  over  with  either 
cream  sauce  (No.  280),  white  sauce  (No.  130),  melted  butter 
(No.  264),  maitre  d'hotel,  and  place  a  fine  Brussels  sprout 
between  each,  which  contrast  is  exceedingly  inviting,  simple, 
and  pretty. 

649.  Cucumbers  are  most  delicious  stuffed  and  stewed,  but 
very  difficult  to  dress,  and  consequently  chiefly  used  for  entrees, 
in  which  series  they  will  be  found.     They  may,  however,  be 
treated  like  vegetable  marrow. 


650.  Artichokes. — Pull  the  tail  off  four  or  six  small  arti- 
chokes, trim  the  bottom  slightly  with  a  knife,  cut  the  point  of 
every  leaf,  wash  well  in  plain  water,  put  them  on  in  plenty  of 
water,  with  a  little  salt,  to  boil,  let  them  thus  remain  about  half 
an  hour,  or  until  the  leaves  are  easy  to  be  removed,  take  them 
out  and  lay  on  a  sieve  to  drain,  and  serve  on  a  napkin,  with 
melted  butter  separate. 

651.  Beet-root. — This  is  a  very  good  dish,  and,  as  I  believe 
it  has  never  been  noticed  in  cookery,  I  must  lay  claim  to  its 
parentage  ;  I  have  given  the  receipt  to  some  friends,  who  highly 
approve  of  it.     Take  two  nice  young  boiled  beet-roots,  which 
will  take  about  from  two  to  three  hours  to  simmer  in  plenty  of 
boiling  water,  peel  when  cold,  cut  in  slanting  direction,  so  as  to 
make  oval  pieces,  peel  and  cut  in  small  dice  two  middling-sized 


VEGETABLES.  259 


onions,  put  in  a  pan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  fry  white, 
stirring  continually  with  a  spoon ;  acid  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and 
enough  milk  to  make  a  nice  thickish  sauce,  add  to  it  three  salt- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  four  of  sugar,  one  of  pepper,  a  spoonful  of 
good  vinegar,  and  boil  a  few  minutes ;  put  in  the  slices  to  sim- 
mer for  about  twenty  minutes,  have  ready  some  mashed  pota- 
toes, with  which  make  a  neat  border  in  your  dish  one  inch 
high,  then  put  the  beet-root  and  sauce,  highly  season  in  the 
centre,  and  serve. 


652.  French  Beans. — These  are  also  a  great  favorite  with 
many.  To  dress  it,  head  and  tail  them,  drawing  off  the  back 
string,  cut  in  long  diamonds,  boil  till  tender  in  water  in  which 
salt  has  been  placed,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  a  gallon,  try  them 
after  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  boiling,  drain  them,  lay  them  on  a 
dish  one  inch  thick,  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  two 
pats  of  butter,  then  put  in  the  remainder,  proceed  the  same  at 
top ;  serve  very  quickly,  to  prevent  the  butter  oiling. 


653.  The  same,  a  la  Maitre  d*  Hotel. — When  boiled  as  above, 
put  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter,  when  melted  serve.  They  may  be  also  served  with 
white  sauce  thus :  put  in  a  stewpan  eight  spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter,  season  well,  simmer  gently,  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve. 


654.  Kidney  Beans. — Head  and  tail  them,  string  and  slit 
them  down  the  middle,  place  them  for  half  an  hour  in  salt  and 
water  in  which  you  have  thrown  a  little  culinary  alkali,  boil 
until  tender,  and  serve  with  melted  butter,  or  a  la  maitre 
d'hotel. 

655.  Broad  or  Windsor  Beans. — Boil  in  salt  and  water  : 
when  done,  serve  with  parsley  and  butter,  or  with  a  piece  of 
bacon. 


656.  Brussels  Sprouts. — Trim,  wash,  and  boil  about  forty 
small  Brussels  sprouts ;  when  tender,  drain,  dish,  and  sprinkle  a 


260  VEGETABLES. 


little  salt,  pepper,  and  two  ounces  of  butter  over,  and  serve. 
Serve  also  in  sauce,  or  with  maitre  d'hotel,  like  French  beans. 
These  are  also  very  good  for  soups,  sauces,  or  garnish. 


657.  Spinach. — This  vegetable  is  very  light  and  very  good 
for  invalids.  It  must  be  washed  in  several  waters,  after  having 
been  well  picked;  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  sieve  of  spinach  to, 
a  gallon  of  water  and  three  ounces  of  salt,  boil  for  ten  minutes1 
till  tender,  drain  on  sieve,  press  a  little  with  your  hands  to  ex- 
tract part  of  the  water,  chop  it  up  fine,  put  in  a  stewpan,  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  ditto 
of  pepper,  put  on  a  fire  with  a  drop  of  warm  broth  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  serve. 


658.  Spinach  with  Gravy. — Proceed  as  before,  but  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  and  half  a  pint  of  strong  gravy  in  it,  as 
No.  177  ;  serve  with  sippets  of  bread  round. 


659.  Spinach  with  Cream. — Proceed  as  before,  but  putting 
half  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream  instead  of  gravy,  and  the  addition 
of  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  cut  three  slices  of  bread,  lay  on  dish, 
sift  sugar  over,  put  in  oven,  salamander  over,  cut  in  various 
shapes,  and  serve  under  or  over  the  spinach. 


660.  Young  Haricot  Beans. — Take  a  pint,  boil  in  two  quarts 
of  water,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
salt ;  when  done,  which  will  take  only  a  few  minutes,  dish  and 
serve ;  put  butter  over,  sprinkle  a  little  salt,  and  when  on  the 
dish,  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  or  fennel  sauce  may  be  served 
over  the  larger  one,  or  it  is  very  delicious  plain  boiled,  and  with 
a  piece  of  ham  or  bacon. 

661.  White  Haricot  Beans. — Nothing  so  cheap  or  so  solid 
a  food  as  haricot  beans ;  get  a  pint  of  fine  white  beans,  called 
the  dwarf — I  buy  them  for  fourpence  a  quart.     I  put  them  into 
half  a  gallon  of  cold  soft  water,  with  one  ounce  of  butter  ;  they 
take  about  three  hours  to  cook,  and  should  simmer  very  slowly, 


VEGETABLES.  261 


drain  them  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
chopped  parsley,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
place  on  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  stir  well,  and  serve.  The 
water  in  which  it  is  boiled  will  not  make  a  bad  soup  by  frying 
four  onions  in  butter  in  a  stewpan,  adding  a  little  flour,  then  the 
water  poured  over,  and  a  slice  of  toasted  bread,  cut  in  pieces, 
and  served  in  a  tureen.  Should  the  water  in  boiling  reduce  too 
fast,  add  a  little  more.  They  may  be  dressed  for  second  course, 
a  la  Bretonne,  as  for  leg.  The  longer  sort  requires  to  be  soak- 
ed a  few  hours  before  boiling. 


662.  Mushrooms. — These  are  good  every  way  when  fresh ; 
for  a  dish  take  about  fifty  button,  cut  the  roots  off,  wash  and 
rub  the  skin  off  with  a  cloth,  cut  them  in  slices  the  size  of  a 
shilling,  tail  and  all,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  a  small  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  pinches  of  pepper,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  put  them  on  the  fire,  simmer  till  ten- 
der, and  dish  them  up  on  a  nice  crisp  toast ;  should  you  require 
any  sauce,  add,  when  nearly  done,  half  a  spoonful  of  flour,  a 
gill  of  broth,  milk,  or  cream,  or  even  water,  stew  a  few  minutes 
longer,  pour  over  toast  and  serve. 

If  very  large,  they  should  have  been  carefully  picked,  for  if 
the  dirt  should  have  got  into  the  under  part  it  is  difficult  to  re- 
move it ;  cut  off  the  end  of  the  tail  and  peel  the  top,  put  them 
on  a  gridiron,  season  moderately  with  salt  and  pepper,  turn 
them,  and  when  done  serve  them  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  put  on 
each  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  nut,  and  a  squeeze  of  a  lemon, 
put  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  minute,  or  before  the  fire,  and  serve ;  a 
little  Harvey's  or  Soyer's  sauce  is  an  improvement.  They  may 
also  be  put  in  an  oven,  by  laying  them  in  a  saute-pan  or  tin 
dish,  put  a  little  butter  and  season  over  each,  and  a  drop  of 
Harvey's  sauce,  and  let  them  remain  twenty  minutes,  and  serve 
with  gravy  over. 


663.  Lentils. — Put  into  a  stewpan  one  quart,  add  two  quarts 
of  cold  water,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  one  onion  sliced, 
a  bouquet  of  parsley,  set  on  the  fire,  simmer  till  tender,  which 
may  be  in  two  hours  ;  when  done,  drain  in  a  sieve,  and  save 
the  liquor,  which  can  be  made  into  a  soup  like  the  haricots  (see 


262  VEGETABLES. 


receipt  No.  661) ;  put  the  lentils  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces 
of  butter,  a  little  salt,  sugar,  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  eschalots,  set  it  on  the  fire,  put  in  butter  and  flour, 
mix  well,  boil  ten  minutes  gently,  and  dish  in  a  border  of  po- 
tatoes or  in  a  deep  dish.'  It  may  also  be  done  thus  :  by  frying 
till  brown  one  onion,  sliced  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  boiled  len- 
tils, with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  flour,  a  gill  of  gravy,  and 
season  as  above,  stir  well,  boil,  and  serve  hot. 

Gabanza  or  Egyptian  bean  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 


664.  English  Truffles. — Put  twelve  of  them  to  soak  for  four 
hours  in  lukewarm  water ;  then  with  a  hard  hair-brush  remove 
all   the  earth  from  them ;  then  wash  again,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  two  onions,  half  a  head  of 
celery,  half  a  carrot,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  bay-leaves,  a  sprig 
of  thyme,  four  of  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  a 
half  of  pepper,  two  glasses  of  sherry,  and  a  pint  of  broth  ;  let 
them  simmer  for  half  an  hour  or  more,  but  till  tender ;  place 
them  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes  longer,  remove  the  truffles 
and  place  them  on  a  dish  ;  have  a  little  mashed  potatoes,  and 
make  a  border,  and  place  the  truffles  on  in  pyramid  to  pre- 
vent them  moving,  strain  the  gravy  they  were  in,  skim  off  the 
fat,  reduce  it  to  about  a  gill,  put  in  a  teaspoonful  of  arrow-root 
in  a  cup,  with  a  spoonful   of  water,  mix  it,  and  put  to  the 
gravy,  boil  a  few  minutes,  pour  over,  and  serve. 

I  peeled   some  of  them,  cooked   the  same  way,  they  eat 
better ;  but  they  did  not  look  so  well. 

665.  Saute  of  the  same. — After  having  washed  them,  I  peel 
them  and  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  put  about  one  pound  of  them 
into  a  stewpan ;  I  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  one  of  sugar,  a  quarter  ditto  of  nutmeg, 
warm  over  the  fire,  add  a  gill  of  broth,  a  little  flour,  mixed  with 
a  little  butter,  stir  in,  boil,  and  serve  on  toast ; — or  proceed  as 
above,  adding  a  gill  of  demi-glaze.     They  can  be  served  with 
any  entrees  when  properly  done,  and  in  all  cases  can  be  used 
instead  of  mushrooms. 

666.  To  cook  Sourcrout. — Put  a  quart  of  sourcrout,  with  a 


VEGETABLES.  263 


fat  piece  of  bacon  or  pork,  into  an  earthen  pan,  with  sufficient 
water  to  cover  it,  stew  for  four  or  five  hours,  and  serve  with 
pork  or  fried  sausages ;  it  is  better  the  second  day.  It  may  be 
procured  in  any  good  oil-shop  in  the  winter. 

667.  Sourcrout,  Bavarian  way. — Well  wash  one  quart  of 
sourcrout,  and  put  it  into  an  earthen  pan  with  a  quarter  of  a 
bottle  of  Rhenish  wine  or  any  other  light  wine,  and  stew  it  for 
three  hours ;  then  add  some  veal  gravy,  well  seasoned,  and  stew 
for  three  hours  longer,  and  serve  with  sausages,  or  when  you 
add  the  veal  stock,  put  in  a  duck  or  a  goose,  and  serve  with  it. 


668.  Laver  is  a  marine  plant  (the  Ulvce  Lactuca),  which  is  obtain- 
ed, in  London,  from  the  West  of  England ;  in  Dublin,  from  Malahide ; 
Edinburgh,  from  Aberdeen.  It  is  merely  washed,  boiled,  pulped,  and 
potted  by  the  fishermen's  wives.  It  is  considered  wholesome,  but  I  see 
nothing  particular  in  it  that  can  make  it  so  unless  it  is  the  small  quan- 
tity of  iodine  that  it  contains.  It  should  be  dressed  like  spinach  (No. 
658),  and  sent  up  very  hot  in  a  dish  over  a  spirit-lamp,  and  is  generally 
served  with  mutton.  The  following  is  a  new  plan  I  have  introduced  for 
cooking  it,  which  has  been  liked  by  those  persons  who  formerly  disliked 
it. 

Have  some  mashed  potatoes  as  No.  672,  roll  it  out  the  thick- 
ness of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  cover  it  with  some  cold  stewed  laver 
nicely  seasoned,  put  another  layer  of  mashed  potatoes  over,  and 
allow  it  to  get  quite  cold,  when  cut  it  in  square  pieces,  egg, 
bread-crumb,  and  proceed  as  for  ramifolles. 


POTATOES. — This  root  still  bears  its  original  American  name,  sig- 
nifying earth-apple,  and  is  divided  into  many  species.  Amongst  those 
most  common  in  use  are  the  regent,  ash-leaf,  kidney ;  but,  in  the  sister 
kingdom,  Ireland,  many  other  varieties  are  in  use ;  as  the  lumper,  reds, 
and  blacks.  There  are  as  many  different  ways  of  cooking  them  as 
there  are  different  species,  which  I  will  now  describe. 

669.  Plain  Soiled  or  Steamed  Potatoes. — Well  wash  the 
potatoes  and  peel  them,  and  throw  them  into  cold  water  (that 
depends  upon  the  kind,  if  new  or  young,  or  a  kidney,  they 
should  be  cooked  immediately  after  they  are  peeled,  whilst 
others  require  to  remain  a  long  time  in  soak) ;  have  ready  a 
steamer  with  boiling  water  in  it,  put  the  potatoes  on  the  top, 


264  VEGETABLES. 


and  steam  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  and  serve.  Should  you 
not  have  a  steamer,  and  are  obliged  to  boil  them,  do  so  by  put- 
ting them  into  plenty  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  till  tender  or 
breaking,  then  pour  them  out  into  a  colander,  put  a  cloth  over 
them,  and  put  them  in  the  screen,  or  before  the  fire,  until  you 
are  ready  to  serve  them ;  they  ought  always  to  be  sent  to  table 
very  hot. 

670.  Baked  Potatoes. — This   is  a  very  favorite  dish  with 
many  persons  ;  they  ought  to  be  of  a  large  size,  called  Regents, 
and  when    cooked  very  floury.     Mr.  B.  tells   me  he   some- 
times lunches  at  a  house  in  the  city  where  the  proprietor  grows 
that  sort  in  particular  for  the  use  of  his  customers,  and  he  finds 
them  better  if  he  leaves  them  in  the  ground  where  they  grow 
until  wanted,  and  he  has  about  three  days'  consumption  taken 
up  at  a  time.     They  are  merely  well  washed,  and  put  into  a 
slow  oven  for  about  thirty  minutes,  or  longer  if  large,  and  served 
with  a  pat  of  butter  in  a  plate. 

671.  Fried  Potatoes. — The  long  kidney  potato  is  the  best 
for  this  purpose ;  they  should  be  washed  and  peeled,  and  cut 
into  very  thin  slices,  and  thrown  into  boiling  fat  until  a  nice 
light  brown  color ;  dish  up  very  hot,  throwing  a  little  salt  over. 
The  remains  of  cold  ones  may  be  cut  into  slices  and  fried  in 
the  same  way,  or  they  may  be  dipped  into  batter,  and  fried  like 
fritters. 


672.  Mashed  Potatoes. — Steam  about  ten  fine  potatoes  for 
about  thirty-five  minutes,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  or  bowl,  with 
two  ounces  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  smaller  spoonful 
of  pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  beat  them  very  well  up 
with  a  large  fork,  then  add  by  degrees  a  gill  of  milk,  and  con- 
tinue beating,  and  dish  them  lightly  on  a  dish.     Should  you 
require  to  keep  them  warm,  do  so  in  a  stewpan.     I  do  not  ap- 
prove of  putting  them  into  moulds  and  then  in  the  oven,  as  it 
makes- them  heavy. 

673.  Potatoes  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel. — With  young  potatoes 
they  are  excellent.     Boil  ten  middle-sized  ones  cut  in  slices  of 


VEGETABLES.  265 


a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  put  in  the  stewpan  half  a  pint  of 
milk  or  the  same  of  broth,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  fresh  chopped  parsley,  then  simmer  on 
fire  ;  when  boiling,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  stir  well  for  a  few  minutes ;  when  each 
piece  is  well  covered  with  the  sauce,  dish  up,  and  high  in  the 
centre,  as  they  must  appear  light. 


674.  Lyonnaise. — The  remains  of  cold  potatoes  may  be  used 
thus  : — Put  three  ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelette  pan,  in  which 
you  fry  rather  white  three  sliced  onions ;  put  on  the  potatoes, 
cut  in  thin  slices  about  the  size  of  half  a  crown,  and  saute  them 
now  and  then  until  they  have  a  nice  yellow  color ;  add  a  spoon- 
ful of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
saute  well  that  it  should  mix  well  together,  dish  and  serve  very 
hot ;  they  are  excellent  to  serve  with  chop,  steak,  or  any  joint. 


675.  Irish  way  of  lolling . — In  Ireland,  where  this  root  has 
been  for  so  long  a  period  the  chief  nourishment  of  the  people, 
and  where  it  takes  the  place  of  bread  and  other  more  substan- 
tial food,  it  is  cooked  so  that  it  may  have,  as  they  call  it,  a  bone 
in  it ;  that  is,  that  the  middle  of  it  should  not  be  quite  cooked. 
They  are  done  thus  : — Put  a  gallon  of  water  with  two  ounces 
of  salt,  in  a  large  iron  pot,  boil  for  about  ten  minutes,  or  until 
the  skin  is  loose,  pour  the  water  out  of  the  pot,  put  a  dry  cloth 
on  the  top  of  the  potatoes,  and  place  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire 
without  water  for  about  twenty  minutes,  and  serve.     In  Ireland 
turf  is  the  principal  article  of  fuel,  which  is  burnt  on  the  flat 
hearth ;  a  little  of  it  is  generally  scraped  up  round  the  pot  so 
as  to  keep  a  gradual  heat,  by  this  plan  the  potato  is  both  boiled 
and  baked.     Even  in  those  families  where  such  a  common  art 
of  civilized  life  as  cooking  ought  to  have  made  some  progress, 
the  only  improvement  they  have  upon  this  plan  is,  that  they 
leave  the  potatoes  in  the  dry  pot  longer,  by  which  they  lose  the 
bone.    They  are  always  served  up  with  the  skins  on,  and  a  small 
plate  is  placed  by  the  side  of  each  guest. 

676.  To  blanch  Macaroni. — Have  half  a  gallon  of  water  in 
a  stewpau,  in  which  put  two  ounces  of  butter  and  an  ounce  of 

12 


266  VEGETABLES. 


salt ;  when  boiling,  throw  in  a  pound  of  macaroni,  which  boil 
until  tender,  being  careful  that  it  is  not  too  much  done ;  the 
time  of  boiling  depends  principally  upon  the  quality,  the  Genoa 
macaroni  taking  the  longest  time,  and  the  Neapolitan  the  shortest, 
which  last,  if  too  much  done,  will  fall  in  puree. 


677.  Macaroni  a  Vltalienne. — Boil  half  a  pound  of  macaroni 
as  above ;  when  done,  lay  it  on  a  sieve  to  dry  for  one  minute, 
put  it  in  a  pan,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  a  little  cayenne, 
toss  the  macaroni  over  the  fire ;  when  boiling,  add  two  ounces 
each  of  grated  Parmesan  and  Gruyere  cheese,  toss  round  and 
round  until  well  mixed,  then  serve  with  a  gill  of  very  strong 
gravy  around  it. 


678.  Macaroni  au  Gratin. — Proceed  the  same  as  above ; 
but  after  you  have  put  the  macaroni  on  the  dish,  omit  the  gravy, 
and  cover  it  slightly  with  bread-crumbs,  and  about  the  same 
quantity  of  Parmesan  cheese  grated,  a  little  butter,  and  then 
put  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  if  not  hot  enough, 
pass  the  salamander  over  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 

679.  Macaroni  a  la  Napolitaine. — Boil  half  a  pound  of  the 
best  quality  of  macaroni  for  half  an  hour,  as  at  No.  736  ;  when 
tender,  lay  one  quarter  of  it  on  the  dish  you  intend  to  serve ; 
have  ready  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  which  you 
divide  into  four  parts  to  lay  over  each  layer  of  macaroni,  then 
put  over  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  strong  gravy,  made  of  half 
glaze  and  consomme,  put  the  dish  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes, 
and  serve  very  hot. 


680.  The  real  Italian  method  (called  a  rfistoufade).—Boi\ 
and  proceed  as  before,  but  make  the  gravy  as  follows,  and  use 
it  instead  of  the  preceding.  Take  two  pounds  of  rump  of  beef 
larded  through,  put  in  a  small  stewpan,  with  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  fry  gently  for  one  hour,  turning  almost  con- 
tinually ;  when  forming  a  glaze  add  half  a  pint  of  broth,  let 
simmer  another  hour,  take  the  fat  off,  and  use  that  gravy  instead 


VEGETABLES.  267 

of  that  above  described ;  a  little  tomato  may  be  introduced  if 
handy,  serve  the  beef  at  the  same  time  in  a  separate  dish. 


681.  Fried  Mashed  Potatoes  in  various  shapes. — Roast  twelve 
fine  potatoes ;  when  done,  take  out  the  interior,  which  form  into 
a  ball ;  when  cold,  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter half  the  size  of  the  ball ;  pound  them  well  together,  season 
with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  chopped  eschalots,  chopped  parsley, 
and  grated  nutmeg,  mix  them  with  the  yolks  of  six,  and  two 
whole  eggs ;  then  form  them  into  croquettes  about  the  size  and 
shape  of  a  small  egg,  and  bread-crumb  them  twice  over,  and 
fry  them  to  a  light  brown  color  in  a  stewpan  of  hot  lard,  and 
serve  as  garniture  where  required. 


682.  To  boil  Rice. — Wash  well  in  two  separate  waters  a 
pound  of  the  best  Carolina  rice,  then  have  two  quarts  of  water 
boiling  in  a  stewpan,  into  which  throw  your  rice,  boil  it  until 
three  parts  done,  then  drain  it  on  a  sieve ;  butter  the  interior  of 
a  stewpan,  in  which  put  your  rise,  place  the  lid  on  tight,  and 
put  it  in  a  warm  oven  upon  a  trivet  until  the  rice  is  perfectly 
tender,  or  by  the  side  of  the  fire ;  serve  it  separate  with  curry, 
or  any  other  dish  where  required.  Prepared  thus,  every  grain 
will  be  separate  and  quite  white. 


683.  Chopping  of  Herbs,  <&c. — This  may  appear  a  very  simple 
thing  to  do  well,  yet  it  is  often  done  badly,  by  which  the  flavor 
is  lost.  They  should  be  well  washed  and  dried,  and  then  take 
the  leaves  in  the  left  hand,  pressing  upon  the  leaves  with  your 
fingers,  and  chop  as  fine  as  possible,  not  by  placing  the  point 
of  the  knife  on  the  board  and  raising  it  and  letting  it  fall,  but 
with  a  good  sharp  cut,  so  that  they  are  cut,  not  pressed.  Onions 
should  be  peeled,  and  cut  in  halves  lengthwise,  and  then  with 
a  thin  knife  cut  each  half  in  slices,  leaving  them  joined  at  the 
root;  again  cut  into  slices  contrarywise,  and  then  from  top  to 
bottom ;  thus  having  cut  into  very  small  squares,  chop  it  with 
both  hands  with  the  knife.  You  may  also  wash  them ;  when 
half-chopped  press  them  in  a  cloth,  and  chop  them  still  finer. 


268  PASTRY. 


OF  DIFFERENT  SORTS  OF  PASTRY. 

THE  variety  of  pastes  is  to  the  pastry  what  first  stocks  are  to  soups 
and  sauces,  and  must  be  very  properly  first  described,  particularly  as  it 
is  here  I  must  refer  my  readers  for  paste  even  used  for  the  hors-d'oeuvre 
and  entrees ;  to  succeed  you  must  be  particular  in  your  proportions,  and 
very  careful  in  the  mixing ;  for,  although  there  is  nothing  more  simple 
if  pains  be  taken,  so  will  the  least  neglect  produce  a  failure,  nor  is  it 
only  with  the  making  of  the  paste  that  pains  must  be  taken,  but  likewise 
with  the  baking,  for  as  paste  badly  made  would  not  improve  in  baking, 
neither  will  paste,  however  well  made,  be  good  if  badly  baked ;  should 
the  oven  be  too  hot  the  paste  will  become  set  and  burn  before  it  is  done ; 
and,  again,  if  too  cold  it  would  give  the  paste  a  dull  heavy  appearance, 
but  an  oven  properly  heated  (which  can  be  readily  known  by  a  little 
attention  on  the  part  of  those  in  the  habit  of  using  it)  will  give  it  a  clear 
brilliant  appearance. 

For  every  description  of  pastry  made  from  puff  paste,  try  if  the  oven 
is  hot  by  placing  your  hand  about  half-way  in,  and  hold  it  there  about 
a  quarter  of  a  minute,  if  you  can  hold  it  there  that  time  without  incon- 
venience it  would  not  be  hot  enough  ;  but  if  you  cannot  judge  of  the 
heat,  the  safest  method  would  be,  try  a  piece  of  the  paste  previous  to 
baking  the  whole ;  I  apply  these  few  observations  to  all  my  friends,  but 
particularly  to  the  uninstructed,  as  a  person  of  continual  practice  cannot 
fail  to  be  aware  of  the  truth  of  them. 

684.  Puff  Paste. — Put  one  pound  of  flour  upon  your  pastry 
slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  the  yolk  of  one 
egg  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  mix  it  with 
cold  water  (iced  in  summer,  if  convenient)  into  a  softish  flexible 
paste,  with  the  right  hand  dry  it  off  a  little  with  flour  until  you 
have  well  cleared  the  paste  from  the  slab,  but  do  not  work  it 
more  than  you  can  possibly  help,  let  remain  two  minutes  upon 
the  slab ;  then  have  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  from  which  you 
have  squeezed  all  the  buttermilk  in  a  cloth,  bringing  it  to  the 
same  consistency  as  the  paste,  upon  which  place  it ;  press  it  out 
with  the  hand,  then  fold  over  the  edges  of  the  paste  so  as  to 
hide  the  butter,  and  roll  it  with  the  rolling-pin  to  the  thickness 
of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  thus  making  it  about  two  feet  in  length, 
fold  over  one  third,  over  which  again  pass  the  rolling-pin ;  then 
fold  over  the  other  third,  thus  forming  a  square,  place  it  with 
the  ends  top  and  bottom  before  you,  shaking  a  little  flour  both 
under  and  over,  and  repeat  the  rolls  and  turns  twice  again  as 
before ;  flour  a  baking-sheet,  upon  which  lay  it,  upon  ice  or  in 


PASTRY. 


269 


some  cool  place  (but  in  summer  it  would  be  almost  impossible 
to  make  this  paste  well  without  ice)  for  half  an  hour ;  then  roll 
twice  more,  turning  it  as  before,  place  again  upon  the  ice  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  give  it  two  more  rolls,  making  seven  in  all, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use  when  required,  rolling  it  whatever  thick- 
ness (according  to  what  you  intend  making)  directed  in  the  fol- 
lowing receipts.  When  I  state  that  upwards  of  a  hundred  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  cakes  may  be  made  from  this  paste,  I  am  sure 
it  will  be  quite  sufficient  to  urge  upon  every  cook  the  necessity 
of  paying  every  attention  to  its  fabrication,  as  it  will  repay  for 
the  study  and  trouble. 

685.  Puff  Paste,  with  Beef  Suet. — Where  you  cannot  ob- 
tain good  butter  for  making  paste,  the  following  is  an  excellent 
substitute ;  skin  and  chop  one  pound  of  kidney  beef  suet  very 
fine,  put  it  into  a  mortar  and  pound  it  well,  moistening  with  a 
little  oil,  until  becoming  as  it  were  one  piece,  and  about  the 
consistency  of  butter,  proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  using  it 
instead  of  butter. 


686.  Half  Puff  Paste. — Put  one  pound  of  flour  upon  your 
pastry  slab,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  rub  well  together  with 
the  hands,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  a  pinch  of 
salt  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  mix 
with  water  as  before,  then  roll  it  out  thin  and  lay  half  a  pound 
of  butter  (prepared  as  for  puff  paste)  rolled  into  thin  sheets 
over,  fold  it  in  three,  roll  and  fold  again  twice  over,  lay  it  in  a 
cold  place  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  give  another  roll,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use  where  required  ;  this  paste  is  mostly  used  for  fruit 
tarts,  for  which  it  is  well  adapted. 

687.  Short  Paste,  or  Pate  a  foncer. — Put  a  pound  of  best 
flour  upon  your  pastry  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which 
put  an  ounce  of  salt,  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  sufficient 
water  to  form  a  stiff  paste,  mix  well  together,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use  where  directed. 


688.  Short  Paste  for  Fruit  Tarts. — Put  a  pound  of  flour 
upon  your  pastry  slab  with  six  ounces  of  butter,  and  rub  them 


270  PASTRY. 


well  together ;  then  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put 
two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  two  whole  eggs,  and  a  large 
wineglassful  of  water,  mix  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  water  well, 
then  drown  in  the  flour  and  mix  together,  and  work  it 
lightly. 

689.  Pate  d>  Office,  or  Confectioner's  Paste. — Weigh  half  a 
pound  of  flour,  which  put  upon  your  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the 
centre,  in  which  put  six  ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  mix  it  well 
with  four  eggs  into  a  stiffish  paste,  having  first  well  dissolved 
the  sugar  with  the  eggs,  work  it  well,  it  is  then  ready  for 
use. 

This  paste  was  very  much  used  when  pieces  montes  were  so 
much  in  vogue,  but  in  the  several  receipts  in  which  it  is  referred 
to,  it  is  used  upon  quite  a  new  principle,  and  very  much  sim- 
plified ;  this  paste,  with  the  above  proportions,  ought  to  be  very 
stiff,  but  still  pliable  enough  to  be  worked  without  breaking ; 
should  it  be  too  stiff  add  more  eggs,  or  too  soft  more  flour ; 
the  half  or  quarter  of  the  above  quantity  may  of  course  be 
made. 

690.  Vols-au-  Vent  of  all  things  in  pastry  require  the  most 
care  and  precision;  they  that  can  make  a  good  vol-au-vent 
may  be  stamped  as  good  pastrycooks,  although  many  variations 
in  working  puff  paste,  all  others  are  of  secondary  importance. 
Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  giving  it  seven  rolls  and  a  half, 
leave  it  an  inch  in  thickness,  make  a  mark  upon  the  top  either 
round  or  oval,  and  according  to  the  size  of  your  dish ;  then, 
with  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  cut  it  out  from  the  paste,  holding 
the  knife  with  the  point  slanting  outwards ;  turn  it  over,  mark 
the  edges  with  the  back  of  your  knife,  and  place  it  upon  a 
baking-sheet,  which  you  have  sprinkled  with  water ;  egg  over 
the  top,  then  dip  the  point  of  the  knife1  into  hot  water,  and  cut 
a  ring  upon  the  top  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  and  half  an 
inch  from  the  edge  of  the  vol-au-vent,  set  in  a  rather  hot  oven, 
if  getting  too  much  color,  cover  over  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  do 
not  take  it  out  before  done,  or  it  would  fall,  but  when  quite  set, 
cut  off  the  lid,  and  empty  it  with  a  knife ;  be  careful  to  make 
no  hole  in  the  side  or  bottom ;  if  for  first  course  it  is  ready,  but 
if  for  second  sift  sugar  all  over,  which  glaze  with  the  salaman- 


PASTRY.  271 


der.  Regulate  the  thickness  of  the  paste  from  which  you  cut 
the  vol-au-vent,  according  to  the  size  you  require  it,  the  smaller 
ones  of  course  requiring  thinner  paste.  A  vol-au-vent  for  en- 
trees will  take  about  half  an  hour  to  bake,  and  as  the  common 
iron  ovens  often  throw  out  more  heat  upon  one  side  than  the 
other,  it  will  require  turning  two  or  three  times  to  cause  it  to 
rise  equal ;  it  ought  to  be  when  baked  of  a  light  gold  color. 


691.  Vol-au-Vent  of  Peaches. — Put  half  a  pound  of  sugar 
in  a  sugar-pan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  about  half  a  pint 
of  water,  place  it  upon  the  fire  and  boil  till  becoming  a  thickish 
syrup ;  then  have  eight  peaches  not  quite  ripe,  which  cut  in 
halves,  break  their  stones  and  blanch  the  kernels,  throw  six 
halves  with  the  kernels  into  the  syrup,  boil  three  minutes,  take 
them  out  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  upon  a  dish  and  take  off 
their  skins,  stew  the  rest  in  syrup  in  like  manner,  four  at  a  time ; 
when  all  done  pour  what  liquor  runs  from  them  again  into  the 
syrup,  which  reduce  to  a  good  thickness,  pass  it  through  a 
tammy  into  a  basin,  when  cold  pour  a  little  over  the  peaches 
and  leave  until  ready  to  serve ;  dress  the  peaches  in  your  vol- 
au-vent  with  the  syrup  over.  This  is  a  receipt  I  learnt  in 
France,  where  I  got  peaches  for  a  sou  each. 


692.  Vol-au-Vent  with  Fruit. — These  are  generally  used 
for  the  second  course,  and  do  not  require  to  be  so  high  as  the 
other,  especially  as  the  fruit  ought  to  be  dressed  in  the  form  of 
a  pyramid,  if  they  are  cut  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in 
thickness  it  will  be  enough ;  when  nearly  done,  sift  some  pow- 
dered sugar  over  them,  and  put  it  back  in  the  oven  to  glaze 
well,  if  not  hot  enough  use  the  salamander ;  remove  the  inte- 
rior, taking  care  not  to  make  a  hole  in  the  bottom  or  sides,  and 
fill  with  any  kind  of  fruit  you  like,  but  never  mix  two  kinds 
together,  except  currant  and  raspberry. 


693.  Sweet  Vol-au-  Vent  with  Rhubarb. — In  the  spring  of 
the  year,  this  makes  a  very  inviting  and  wholesome  dish,  and 
its  qualities  purify  the  blood,  which  the  winter's  food  has  ren- 
dered gross ;  cut  about  twelve  sticks  of  rhubarb  into  lengths  of 


272  PASTRY. 


one  inch,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  holding  about  two  quarts,  put  over 
it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  water, 
set  it  on  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  it,  do  not  let  it  get  brown,  or  it 
would  spoil  and  lose  its  flavor ;  it  will  take  but  a  few  minutes 
to  do ;  when  tender,  put  it  in  a  basin  to  cool ;  a  few  minutes 
before  serving,  fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  it,  and  serve  cold. 


694.  Ditto,  with  green  Gooseberries. — A  quart  of  green 
gooseberries,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  put  on  the  fire 
and  move  it  about  for  ten  minutes,  or  till  tender,  and  forming 
a  thick  green  marmalade,  put  it  in  a  basin  till  cold,  serve  in 
pyramid  in  the  vol-au-vent;  a  little  thick  syrup,  if  handy, 
poured  over,  improves  the  appearance. 


695.  Ditto,  with  Orange. — Well  peel  six  oranges,  removing 
all  the  pith,  divide  each  into  six  or  eight  pieces,  put  them  in  a 
pan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  one 
orange,  set  it  on  a  slow  fire,  with  the  cover  on,  stir  it  now  and 
then ;  ten  minutes  will  be  sufficient  time  for  it,  take  out  the 
pieces  one  after  the  other,  lay  them  in  a  basin,  reduce  your 
syrup  to  a  proper  thickness,  when  ready  to  serve,  dish  your 
pieces  of  orange  in  it,  and  pour  over  the  syrup. 


696.  Another  method. — Make  a  thick  syrup  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  put  in  your  pieces  by  a  dozen  at  a  time,  just 
give  them  a  boiling,  remove  them  on  a  sieve,  then  add  the  other 
pieces,  when  all  done,  add  the  juice,  which  pass  through  a  sieve, 
and  back  again  to  the  pan,  boil  till  a  proper  thickness,  dish  up 
and  serve  the  syrup  over. 

697.  Ditto,  a  still  plainer  method. — Have  the  pieces  of 
orange  ready,  and  put  in  a  stewpan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  a  wineglass  of  brandy  or  rum,  stir  it  well  a  few  minutes, 
and  serve  with  the  liquor  poured  over. 

698.  Ditto,  with  Cherries. — Stone  one  pound  of  cherries, 


PASTRY.  273 


and  put  in  a  pan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
stew  for  five  minutes,  take  them  down,  drain,  then  reduce  the 
syrup  till  thick,  and  pour  over  at  the  moment  of  serving. 


699.  Ditto,  with  Strawberries. — Pick  two  pottles  of  very 
fresh  strawberries,  not  too  ripe,  put  them  in  with  two  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon,  toss  them 
gently  in  a  basin,  and  serve  immediately  in  your  vol-au-vent. 


700.  Ditto,  with  Apples. — This  fruit  being  procurable  all 
the  year  renders  it  one  of  very  great  convenience ;  Ribstone 
pippins  are  the  best :  cut  in  four,  peel  them,  put  a  pint  of 
syrup,  when  boiling,  put  in  your  apples,  with  the  peel  of  half 
a  lemon,  and  the  juice  of  a  whole  one,  let  simmer  till  tender, 
put  it  in  a  basin,  boil  the  syrup  to  a  white  jelly,  let  it  stand  till 
cold,  put  the  apple  in  the  vol-au-vent,  and  pour  the  syrup 
(cold)  or  jelly  over ;   serve  a  few  ornaments  made  with  very 
green  angelica. 

701.  Another  method. — Cut  any  kind  of  apple,  rather  thin, 
put  over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  the  rind  of 
a  lemon  chopped,  the  juice  of  the  same,  one  ounce  of  butter, 
and  a  glass  of  sherry,  put  on  the  fire,  toss  till  tender,  but  keep 
it  very  white,  put  it  in  a  basin,  when  cold  dish  in  your  vol-au- 
vent  ;    whip  a  gill  of  good  cream,  add  ten  drops  of  orange- 
flower  water  in  it,  cover  over  carefully  and  serve. 

Apple  saute  with  butter,  in  this  way  may  be  served  hot  in 
the  vol-au-vent.  Any  kind  of  plums  or  apricots,  when  plenti- 
ful, may  be  done  the  same  as  cherries,  and  served  the  same 
way. 

702.  Little  Fruit  Rissolettes. — I  also  make  with  the  trim- 
mings of  puff  paste  the  following  little  cakes  :  if  you  have  about 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste  left,  roll  it  out  very  thin,  about 
the  thickness  of  half  a  crown,  put  half  a  spoonful  of  any  mar- 
malade on  it,  about  one  inch  distance  from  each  other,  wet 
lightly  round  them  with  a  paste-brush,  and  place  a  piece  of 
paste  over  all,  take  a  cutter  of  the  size  of  a  crown  piece,  and 
press  round  the  part  where  the  marmalade  or  jam  is,  with  the 

12* 


274  PASTRY. 


thick  part  of  the  cutter,  to  make  the  paste  stick,  then  cut  them 
out  with  one  a  size  larger,  lay  them  on  a  baking-tin,  egg  over, 
then  cut  a  little  ring  in  paste,  the  size  of  a  shilling,  put  it  on 
them,  egg  over  again,  place  in  a  nice  hot  oven  for  twenty  min- 
utes, then  sugar  over  with  finely  sifted  sugar,  so  as  to  make  it 
quite  white  all  over,  then  put  back  into  the  oven  to  glaze  :  should 
the  oven  not  be  sufficiently  hot,  take  a  salamander,  or,  for  the 
want  of  one,  a  red-hot  shovel,  full  of  live  coals,  may  be  used ; 
serve  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid.  A  little  currant  jelly  in  the 
ring  looks  well. 

703.  Flanc  of  Fruit. — This  requires  a  mould  the  same  as 
No.  602  ;  it  must  be  well  wiped  with  a  cloth,  butter  it,  then 
take  the  remains  of  puff  paste,  and  roll  it  well  so  as  to  deaden 
it,  then  roll  it  out  a  size  larger  than  your  mould,  and  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  place  your  mould  on  a  baking-tin,  put 
the  paste  carefully  in  the  mould  and  shape  it  well,  to  obtain  all 
the  form  of  the  mould,  without  making  a  hole  in  it ;  put  a  piece 
of  paper  at  the  bottom,  fill  with  flour  to  the  top,  and  bake  a 
nice  color ;  it  will  take  about  half  an  hour,  then  take  out  the 
flour  and  paper,  open  the  mould,  and  fill  it. 


704.  Flancs,  with  any  kind  of  fruit,  like  a  vol-au-vent,  are 
more  easily  made,  and  are  equally  as  good  a  side  dish.     This  may 
be  made  of  half-puff  or  short  paste,  and  fill  with  raw  cherries  and 
some  pounded  sugar  over :  bake  together.     Greengages,  apri- 
cots, or  any  kind  of  plums,  will  require  a  hotter  oven  than  for 
flour  only  in  it,  the  fruit  giving  moisture  to  the  paste  ;  if  baked 
in  a  slow  oven  will  be  heavy,  and  consequently  indigestible. 

705.  Another. — If  you  have  no  mould,  make  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  paste  (No.  688),  roll  it  round  or  oval  to  your  fancy,  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  wet  the  edge  all  round  about  half  an 
inch,  raise  that  part  and  pinch  it  round  with  your  thumbs  and 
fingers,  making  a  border  all  round,  put  on  a  baking-sheet,  fill 
with  fruit  one  row,  if  large  two ;  remove  the  stones,  and  sift 
sugar  over  according  to  the  acidity  of  the  fruit ;  it  will  take  less 
time,  too,  than  if  in  a  mould :  you  see  what  variation  can  be 
made  with  very  little  trouble  or  expense. 


PASTRY.  2*75 


706.  Flanc  of  Apples. — I  just  perceive  that  I  had  forgot  to 
give  you  a  few  receipts  in  this  way  of  cake,  which  I  make  very 
pretty  when  we  have  a  party.  Take  eight  Ripstone  pippins,  cut 
in  four,  peel  a  nice  shape,  rub  with  lemon,  put  half  a  pound  of 
sugar  in  a  pan,  cover  with  cold  water,  juice  of  a  lemon ;  boil  till 
rather  thick,  then  add  half  the  apples,  simmer  till  tender,  put 
them  on  a  plate,  do  the  remainder  the  same  way,  reduce  the 
syrup  a  little,  put  the  apples  in  a  basin,  pour  syrup  over :  when 
cold,  dish  in  pyramid  in  the  crust,  which  you  have  prepared  as 
No.  703,  pour  over  the  syrup,  which  should  be  a  jelly.  I  often 
cut  in  fine  strips  the  rind  of  a  lemon  or  orange,  boil  with  the 
apples,  and  ornament  also  with  pieces  of  young  angelica  pre- 
served, cut  in  diamond,  placing  a  piece  between  each  apple. 
Flancs  of  pears  may  be  made  precisely  the  same  way,  but  with 
good  ripe  eating  pears  cut  in  two  lengthwise,  leaving  the  stalk 
cut  in  half. 


707.  A  plainer  way. — Peel  and  cut  eight  apples  in  thin 
slices  in  a  pan,  with  two  ounces  of  pounded  sugar,  the  rind  and 
juice  of  a  lemon,  the  rind  well  chopped,  put  on  fire,  stir  till 
forming  a  thick  marmalade,  and  tender,  melt  a  little  currant 
jelly,  pour  over  and  serve. 

708.  Small  Fruit  Tarts. — The  next  in  order  to  sweet  vol- 
au-vents,  and  which  are  easier  to  make,  are  tartlets,  their  ap- 
pearance being  inviting,  and  their  expense  limited,  and  very 
easy  to  serve.     They  may  be  made  from  the  trimmings  of  any 
putf  paste  which  remains,  should  be  enveloped  in  paper,  and 
kept  in  a  cold  place,  or  in  the  flour  tub.     Make  them  as  fol- 
lows : — Have  ready  twelve  or  more  small  tartlet  pans,  which  but- 
ter, line  each  with  a  bit  of  puff  paste  cut  with  a  cutter  the  size  of  a 
crown  piece,  force  up  the  edges  with  your  thumb  and  finger,  put 
a  small  ball  (made  of  flour  and  water)  in  each,  bake  them  nicely 
in  a  very  hot  oven ;  when  done  take  out  the  ball  (which  may 
be  kept  for  other  occasions),  the  tartlets,  and  shake  powdered 
sugar  over  the  bottom  of  each,  and  glaze  with  a  salamander, 
turn  them  over,  and  shake  sugar  in  the  interior,  which  also 
salamander ;  fill  with  any  kind  of  preserve,  marmalade,  or  fruit, 
for  sweet  vol-au-vents.     They  may  be  made  with  cream  as  fol- 
lows : — Make  your  tartlets  as  before,  placing  cream  instead  of 


276  PASTRY. 


the  ball  of  flour,  made  thus  :  put  half  a  pint  of  milk  in  a  stew- 
pan,  when  boiling,  add  half  a  stick  of  vanilla,  reduce  the  milk 
to  half  in  another  stewpan,  have  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar,  and  one  ounce  of  sifted 
flour,  with  a  grain  of  salt,  pour  in  the  milk,  taking  out  the  va- 
nilla, place  over  a  slow  fire,  keep  stirring  till  it  thickens  ;  when 
cold,  fill  the  tartlets,  and  bake  nicely  in  a  moderate  oven ;  when 
cold,  add  a  little  jam,  have  ready  a  meringue  of  four  eggs  (see 
ISTo.  711),  lay  a  teaspoonful  of  each  upon  them,  spreading  it 
quite  flat  with  a  knife,  ornament  the  top  with  some  of  the  mix- 
ture, put  into  a  paper  cornet,  sift  sugar  over,  place  in  a  slow 
oven  till  a  light  brown  color,  and  the  meringue  quite  crisp;  if 
the  oven  is  too  hot,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  dress,  and  serve 
in  pyramid  upon  your  dish.  They  ought  to  be  of  a  light  color. 


709.  Rissole  Fourree. — This  is  made  as  the  rissole  for  en- 
trees ;  it  is  a  very  simple  receipt,  and  I  vary  it  continually 
without  the  slightest  difficulty ;  instead  of  making  it  with  orange 
I  substitute  apricot  marmalade,  apple,  raspberry,  strawberry,  or 
greengage  jam ;  but  no  jelly,  as  currant  or  apple,  as  it  would 
run  through  the  paste  and  look  bad.  To  vary  the  appearance 
at  table,  instead  of  egging,  dust  them  lightly  over  with  some 
coarse  powdered  sifted  sugar,  then  bake  them  white  instead  of 
brown ;  if  the  oven  is  too  hot  cover  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  put  a 
little  marmalade  or  jam  in  a  ring  which  you  have  selected,  and 
serve.  By  blanching  and  chopping  a  few  pistachios,  and  mix- 
ing with  the  sugar,  makes  them  look  very  inviting,  or  even 
chopped  sweet  almonds  changes  the  flavor  ;  they  may  also  be 
filled  with  any  preparation  of  cream,  rice,  or  vermicelli,  prepared 
as  for  croquets.  I  also  change  them  by  sauteing,  as  they  are 
much  quicker  done,  and  make  a  very  nice  dish.  To  remove  the 
roast  of  the  second  course,  I  put  six  at  a  time  in  the  saute -pan 
(see  page  62),  which  must  be  hot,  and  saute  a  few  minutes  un- 
til a  nice  pale  yellow  color,  serve  with  sifted  sugar  over,  or  egg  and 
bread-crumb ;  serve  very  hot ;  if  any  left  cold,  warm  in  the  oven. 


710.  Flanc  Meringue  of  Apple. — Sometimes  I  make  a 
meringue  of  three  eggs,  as  No.  711 ;  when  it  is  hard  I  cover 
the  apples  with  it  half  an  inch  thick,  keeping  the  pyramid  ;  then 
I  put  the  remainder  in  a  paper  cornet ;  cut  the  point  so  that 


PASTRY.  277 


by  pressing  it  the  mixture  may  go  out  by  degrees,  with  which 
I  make  various  designs,  according  to  fancy,  sugar  over,  and  put 
for  half  an  hour  to  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven ;  the  color  ought 
to  be  pale  yellow ;  they  are  equally  good  hot  or  cold.  If  you 
would  keep  it  quite  white,  bake  it  in  a  still  slower  oven,  and 
give  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer.  When  I  do  it  so,  I  merely 
make  dots  all  over,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  distant  from  each 
other,  of  the  size  of  small  nuts,  sugar  over,  and  put  a  Corinth 
raisin  in  each  knob,  which  gives  it  a  good  appearance,  and  bake 
as  directed ;  when  the  eggs  are  just  set,  you  may  cover  it  with 
a  sheet  of  paper,  to  prevent  it  taking  too  much  color. 


711.  Meringues  a  la  Cuilleree. — Pound  and  sift  one  pound 
of  lump  sugar,  whisk  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  very  stiff,  throw 
the  sugar  lightly  over,  and  with  a  wooden  spoon  stir  gently, 
perfectly  mixing  the  sugar,  then  with  a  table  or  dessert-spoon 
lay  them  out  upon  white  paper  in  the  shape  of  eggs,  sift  pow- 
dered sugar  thickly  over,  let  them  remain  ten  minutes,  then 
shake  off  the  superfluous  sugar,  place  upon  boards  which  you 
have  wetted,  and  put  them  in  a  slow  oven,  just  hot  enough  to 
cause  them  to  be  light  and  slightly  tinged ;  when  the  outside 
becomes  quite  crisp,  take  off  the  papers,  by  turning  them  topsy- 
turvy and  lifting  the  papers  from  them,  dip  your  spoon  into 
hot  water,  and  with  it  clear  out  the  best  part  of  the  interior, 
dust  them  with  powdered  sugar,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet, 
and  put  into  the  screen  to  dry ;  they  may  be  made  a  day  or 
two  before  they  are  required,  if  put  away  in  a  dry  place;  to 
serve,  fill  them  with  whipped  cream  flavored  either  with  vanilla 
or  orange-flower  (but  do  not  make  it  too  sweet),  stick  two  to- 
gether, dress  in  pyramid  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve.  Should 
they  happen  to  stick  to  the  papers,  moisten  the  papers  with  a 
paste-brush  and  water  underneath. 


712.  Gateau  Fourre. — This  style  of  cake  is  exceedingly 
simple,  and  admits  of  great  variation.  You  must  make  a  half 
pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  684),  take  one  third  of  it  and  roll  it 
out  several  times  so  as  to  deaden  it,  then  mould  it  round  with 
your  hands  to  the  shape  of  a  ball,  then  roll  it  out  flat  to  the 
thickness  of  half  a  crown,  lay  it  on  a  baking-sheet,  put  on  it 


278  PASTRY. 


marmalade  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  reserving  about  one  inch 
all  round  of  paste  to  fix  the  cover  on,  then  roll  out  the  remain- 
der of  the  paste  to  the  same  shape,  it  will  of  course  be  thicker, 
wet  the  edges  of  the  bottom  and  lay  the  cover  on  it,  press  it  so 
that  it  sticks,  cut  neatly  round  the  edges,  and  make  a  mark  with 
the  back  of  a  knife  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  and  half  an 
inch  apart  all  round,  egg  over,  and  lightly  mark  any  fanciful 
design  with  the  point  of  a  knife  on  the  cover,  bake  in  a  very 
hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes ;  when  nearly  done  sprinkle  some 
sugar  over  and  salamander,  and  serve  cold.  It  may  be  made 
with  frangipane  and  cream  and  apple  marmalade,  and  then  can 
be  served  hot. 


713.  Dartoise  Fourree. — The  former  one  must  be  made  in 
proportion  to  the  dish  you  intend  to  serve  on,  but  the  following 
is  simple,  and  looks  as  well :  prepare  the  paste  as  before,  but 
roll  the  bottom  piece  square,  put  it  on  a  baking-sheet,  cover 
with  jam,  marmalade  or  frangipane,  leaving  one  inch  at  the 
edge,  roll  the  cover  the  same  size,  wet  the  edges,  place  it  over, 
trim  the  edges,  mark  it  down  every  three  inches,  and  then 
crosswise  every  inch  ;  bake  in  hot  oven,  sugar  over,  and  sala- 
mander.    When  nearly  cold,  cut  it  where  you  have  marked  it ; 
thus,  a  piece  twelve  inches  square  will  give  you  forty-eight 
pieces ;  dish  as  a  crown  or  pyramid,  twelve  pieces  make  a  nice 
dish  for  a  party.     They  may  be  made  of  any  puff  paste  which 
is  left,  but  will  not  be  so  light  as  if  made  on  purpose ;  can  be 
cut  to  any  fanciful  shape  you  please. 

714.  Nougat  of  Apricot. — Proceed  as  above,  but  lay  apricot 
marmalade  all  over  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  blanched  almonds, 
cut  into  fillets,  mixed  with  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  the  white 
of  an  egg  added  to  it,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cut  in  true 
lozenge  shapes  (I  do  not  mean  those  things  called  lozenges,  but 
a  diamond  shape),  dish  up  on  a  napkin  in  crown  or  pyramid ; 
they  ought  to  be  of  a  nice  transparent  color.     Orange,  apple,  or 
quince  marmalade  may  be  used  instead  of  apricot.     Red  fruit 
preserve  does  not  cook  well. 

715.  Crusts  of  Fruit. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 


PASTRY.  279 


in  a  saute-  or  frying-pan,  sprinkle  a  little  sugar  over,  cut  four  or 
five  slices  of  bread  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  three  inches  long, 
and  one  and  a  half  wide,  lay  in  your  pan ;  take  one  dozen  of 
greengages,  open  them  in  two,  they  must  not  be  too  ripe,  lay 
the  skin  part  on  your  bread,  put  a  pinch  of  sugar  in  each,  put  it 
in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes  ;  have  ready  a  salamander  or 
a  hot  shovel,  and  hold  it  over  it  for  a  few  minutes,  dish  and 
serve  hot  or  cold ;  the  oven  ought  to  be  hot  enough  to  give  a 
nice  yellow  color  to  the  bottom,  which  will  eat  crisp. 


716.  Crusts  with  Madeira. — Cut  a  French  penny  roll  length- 
wise in  four  or  five  slices,  put  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  with  four 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  mix  it  in  a  plate,  dip  quickly  each  piece  in  it, 
and  saute  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  which  you  have  pre- 
viously melted  in  a  pan,  leave  them  on  the  fire  until  they  have 
obtained  a  nice  gold  color  on  both  sides,  put  a  spoonful  of 
apricot  marmalade  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  glasses  of  Madeira, 
and  place  on  the  fire ;  when  on  the  point  of  boiling,  pour  over 
the  bread,  which  you  have  previously  put  in  a  plate,  and  serve 
very  hot.     Any  preserve  may  be  used,  also  any  white  wine ; 
and  should  you  have  no  French  rolls,  any  fancy  roll  will  do,  or 
stale  brioche  (No.  11)  is  excellent  for  them. 

717.  Cheesecakes. — Under  this  head,  in  English  Cookery  Books, 
are  a  variety  of  Receipts,  but  in  fact,  there  is  only  one ;  the  others  may 
all  be  denominated  tartlets  of  one  kind  or  the  other,  and  require  but  little 
skill  on  the  part  of  the  cook  to  vary  in  an  innumerable  number  of  ways. 
The  following  is  the  plan  in  use  in  the  farm-houses  in  the  midland  coun- 
ties ;  some  which  I  have  received  from  Stilton,  and  also  from  Tuxford, 
in  Nottinghamshire,  are  excellent. 

Take  four  quarts  of  milk  and  turn  it  with  some  fresh  rennet; 
when  dry,  crumble  it  and  sift  it  through  a  coarse  sieve  into  a 
bowl,  beat  it  well  up  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  until 
it  is  quite  smooth  (it  may  require  a  little  more  butter,  depend- 
ing on  the  quality  of  the  milk) ;  mix  in  another  bowl  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  very  fine  sifted  biscuit 
powder,  the  rind  of  four  lemons,  the  juice  of  two,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  powdered  sugar  (some  add  a  little  grated  nutmeg  or 
cinnamon),  beat  these  all  well  up  together  until  forming  a  stiff 
cream,  then  put  it  by  degrees  into  the  bowl  with  curd,  and  mix 
them  well  together ;  line  some  tartlet-pans,  previously  buttered, 


280  PASTRY. 


with  some  paste  (No.  686),  and  place  some  of  the  above  mix- 
ture in,  and  bake  quick.  In  some  places  milk  is  used  instead 
of  eggs.  Should  you  not  have  rennet,  procure  some  good  milk, 
and  turn  it  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or  a  teaspoonful  of  soda 
or  culinary  alkali  to  a  quart  of  milk  :  drain  the  curd,  and  pro- 
ceed as  before. 


718.  Richmond  Maids  of  Honor. — These  delicious  little  cakes, 
which  every  inhabitant  of  London  who  pays  a  visit  to  the  most  pictur- 
esque part  of  its  environs  knows  so  well,  derive  their  name  from  a  period 
when  cookery  was  not  thought  to  be  a  degrading  occupation  for  those 
honored  with  that  title.  It  is  stated  that  they  originated  with  the  maids 
of  honor  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  who  had  a  palace  at  Richmond.  I  have  a 
little  work  now  before  me,  called  '  The  Queen's  Delight,'  in  which  are 
several  receipts  invented  by  the  wives  of  the  first  nobles  of  the  land, 
which  I  think  is  an  excellent  example  for  those  housewives  who  honor 
this  book  by  their  perusal,  to  imitate.  They  are  made  as  follows : 

Sift  half  a  pound  of  dry  curd,  mix  it  well  with  six  ounces  of 
good  butter,  break  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  into  another  basin, 
and  a  glass  of  brandy  ;  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  powdered  lump 
sugar,  and  beat  well  together  one  very  flowery  baked  potato, 
cold,  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds,  one  ounce  of  bitter  ditto 
pounded,  the  grated  rind  of  three  lemons,  the  juice  of  one,  and 
half  a  nutmeg  grated,  mix  these  well  together  and  add  to  the 
curds  and  butter ;  stir  well  up,  and  proceed  as  before,  filling  the 
tartlet  pans. 


719.  Lemon  Cheesecakes. — Take  two  large  lemons,  and  rub 
the  rind  with  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  so  that  all  the  yellow  part 
is  removed ;  place  the  sugar  in  a  basin,  squeeze  the  juice  of 
the  lemons  over,  then  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  beat  it  all 
well  up,  and  put  it  by  in  a  jar  for  use.     It  will  keep  for  years. 
Any  flavor,  such  as  vanilla  or  cinnamon,  may  be  added,  if  liked, 
when  required  for  use.     Having  made  the  paste  and  lined  the 
tins,  mix  one  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture  with  a  teacupful  of 
good  milk,  and  place  a  little  in  each  tartlet. 

720.  Sweet  Omelettes. — Break  six  eggs  in  a  basin,  into  which 
put  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  three  of  cream,  or  a  few  small  pieces 
of  butter ;  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelette  pan ;  when 


PASTRY.  281 


quite  hot,  pour  in  the  eggs  and  proceed  as  for  Omelettes  of  Herbs, 
turn  over  on  your  dish,  sift  some  powdered  sugar  over,  sala- 
mander, and  serve. 


721.  Omelettes  of  Preserved  Fruits,  viz.  Currant  Jelly,  Rasp- 
berry and  Strawberry  Jam,  Apricots,  Peaches,  Cherries,  &c.,  are 
made  the  same  as  the  last,  but,  just  before  turning  on  your  dish, 
put  two  spoonfuls  of  preserves  in  the  centre,  sugar  over,  salaman- 
der, and  serve. 

722.  Macedoine  of  Omelettes. — Instead  of  making  one  with 
eight  eggs,  make  four,  with  two  eggs  each,  of  different  kinds  of 
preserves ;  serve  on  the  same  dish,  sugar  over,  <fec.,  as  before. 


723.  Omelette  with  Rum. — The  same  as  sweet  omelette,  but, 
the  moment  of  going  to  table,  pour  two  glasses  of  rum  round, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire. 


724.  Beignet  Souffle. — Put  in  a  stewpan  a  pint  of  milk  or 
water,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  few  drops 
of  essence  of  vanilla,  or  any  flavor  you  please ;  give  it  a  boil, 
throw  in  some  flour,  keep  stirring  all  the  time  until  it  becomes 
quite  thick  and  no  longer  tastes  of  the  flour  and  detaches  itself 
from  the  pan.     It  will  take  about  half  an  hour,  as  the  better  it 
is  done  the  lighter  it  is ;  withdraw  it  from  the  fire,  stir  in  six 
eggs,  one  at  a  time,  sift  about  two  ounces  of  sugar,  until  the 
paste  is  of  the  stiffness  of  puff  paste ;  have  ready  a  pan  of  hot 
fat,  into  which  you  drop  by  a  spoon  small  pieces  of  paste,  it  will 
increase  their  size  ;  and  when  a  nice  color,  take  them  out,  drain, 
and  dish  on  a  napkin,  with  sifted  sugar  over. 

725.  Apple  Fritters. — Mix  one  pound  of  flour  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk  or  water,  then  half  a  pound  of  butter  melted  in  a 
stewpan,  mix  well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon  very  smooth, 
thin  it  a  little  with  table-beer  or  water,  whisk  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  very  stiff,  stir  in  gently ;  have  six  apples,  peeled,  cut  in 
slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  the  cores  taken  out  with 
a  cutter,  dip  each  piece  in  the  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  lard  about 


282  PASTRY. 


six  minutes  ;  to  fry  well,  the  fat  should  not  be  too  hot  at  first, 
but  get  hotter  as  it  proceeds ;  they  should  be  crisp,  and  of  a 
nice  golden  color ;  serve  on  a  napkin,  and  sift  sugar  over. 


726.  Ditto  Peaches. — Skim  and  cut  in  halves  six  ripe  but 
fine  peaches,  take  out  the  stones,  have  a  batter  prepared  as  the 
last,  dip  them  in,  fry,  and  serve  the  same. 


727.  Ditto  Apricots. — Cut  in  halves,  and  proceed  as  above, 
and  sugar  over  until  quite  brown. 


728.  Ditto,   Oranges. — Peel  four  oranges,  divide   them  in 
quarters  by  the  thin  skin,  without  cutting  the  flesh,  and  pro- 
ceed as  before. 

Any  other  fruit  may  be  done  in  the  same  way,  and  can,  if 
required,  be  soaked  in  wine  or  brandy  previously,  but  they  do 
not  fry  so  well. 

729.  Pancake  with  Marmalade. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sifted  flour  into  a  basin,  with  four  eggs,  mix  them  together 
very  smoothly,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  and  a 
little  grated  nutmeg,  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  your  pan  (it  re- 
quires but  a  very  little),  and  when  quite  hot  put  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  mixture,  let  spread  all  over  the  pan,  place  it 
upon  the  fire,  and  when  colored  upon  one  side  turn  it  over,  then 
turn  it  upon  your  cloth ;  proceed  thus  till  they  are  all  done, 
then  spread  apricot  or  other  marmalade  all  over,  and  roll  them 
up  neatly,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  sift  sugar  over,  glaze 
nicely  with  the  salamander,  and  serve  upon  a  napkin  ;  the  above 
may  be  served  without  the  marmalade,  being  then  the  common 
pancake. 

730.  Apple  Charlotte  with  Butter.— For  the  few  following 
receipts,  the  russet  apple  is  the  one  I  should  recommend,  it 
being  the  most  suitable,  not  being  so  watery,  or  falling  in  puree, 
but  in  case  they  cannot  be  obtained,  other  sorts  may  be  used, 
which  will  require  to  be  more  reduced  in  stewing. 

Well  butter  the  interior  of  a  plain  round  mould,  then  cut 


PASTRY.  283 


twelve  pieces  of  bread  the  size  and  thickness  of  a  shilling,  dip 
them  in  clarified  butter,  and  lay  them  in  a  circle  round  the 
bottom  of  your  mould  ;  cut  also  eight  small  pieces  in  the  shape 
of  diamonds,  dip  them  in  butter,  and  with  them  form  a  star  in 
the  centre  of  the  circle,  cover  the  whole  with  a  round  piece  of 
bread  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  and  the  thickness 
of  a  penny-piece,  cut  about  thirty  other  pieces  an  inch  wide 
and  four  inches  in  length,  dip  one  after  the  other  in  clarified 
butter,  which  stand  upright,  one  half-way  over  the  other,  all 
round  the  interior  of  the  mould ;  then  have  ready  prepared 
two  dozen  or  more  russet  apples,  which  peel  and  cut  in  slices, 
put  them  into  a  round  stew  or  preserving-pan,  with  three  ounces 
of  butter  and  half  a  pound  of  broken  lump  sugar,  with  a  little 
lemon-peel  cut  in  strips,  and  a  glass  of  sherry,  place  them  over 
a  sharp  fire,  tossing  over  occasionally,  but  keeping  them  together 
in  a  cake ;  when  quite  tender  fill  your  mould  (having  previously 
well  egged  and  bread-crumbed  the  interior),  place  another  round 
piece  of  bread  (also  egged  and  bread-crumbed)  over  the  apples, 
and  stand  the  mould  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  bread  becomes 
well  browned,  take  out  and  turn  it  over  upon  your  dish,  have  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  glass  of 
sherry,  melt  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  pour  round  the 
charlotte ;  sugar  and  salamander  the  top  if  not  quite  crisp,  and 
serve.  You  may  also,  for  a  change,  introduce  a  little  sweetmeat 
of  any  kind  in  the  middle  of  your  charlotte,  and  use  plain 
pieces  of  bread  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  instead  of  so  many 
pieces  for  the  sides. 


731.  Apples  with  Rice. — Peel  and  quarter  twelve  good-sized 
apples,  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon  in  strips,  the  juice  of 
another,  and  a  wineglassful  of  water,  pass  them  over  a  sharp 
fire,  and  when  tender  lay  them  upon  the  back  of  a  hair  sieve 
to  drain,  then  put  six  ounces  of  rice  into  a  stewpan,  with  a 
quart  of  milk,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  stir  until  boiling,  then 
place  it  upon  a  very  slow  fire  to  simmer  very  gently  until  quite 
tender,  placing  a  little  fire  upon  the  lid,  if  it  becomes  dry  before 
it  is  tender  add  a  little  more  milk ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  four  eggs, 
stir  them  well  in,  stir  over  the  fire  until  becoming  again  thick ; 


284  PASTRY. 


when  put  it  upon  a  dish  to  get  cold,  then  form  a  stand  with  it 
upon  your  dish  eight  inches  in  diameter  and  three  in  height, 
but  hollow  in  the  centre,  where  dress  some  of  the  apples,  more 
rice  over,  then  more  apples,  forming  a  pyramid ;  you  have  pre- 
viously reduced  the  syrup  drained  from  the  apples,  which  pour 
orer  the  whole,  and  garnish  with  some  very  green  angelica, 
forming  any  design  your  fancy  may  dictate.  Apples  with  rice 
may  be  served  hot  as  well  as  cold. 


732.  Pears  with  Rice. — Peel  and  cut  in  halves  eighteen 
small  ripe  pears,  which  put  in  a  small  preserving-pan,  with  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  little  water,  and  the  juice  of 
two  lemons,  stew  them  till  tender,  then  lay  them  upon  a  dish 
to  cool,  and  mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade 
with  the  syrup,  have  some  rice  prepared  as  in  the  last,  with 
which  make  a  stand,  but  not  quite  so  high,  dress  the  pears  in  a 
border  in  the  interior,  and  again  in  the  centre  dress  the  remain- 
der of  the  rice  in  pyramid ;  when  ready  to  serve  pour  the  syrup 
over,  and  garnish  tastefully  with  angelica  round. 

733.  Apples  with  Butter. — Peel  eighteen  russet  apples,  which 
cut  in  quarters,  and  trim  of  a  nice  shape,  put  them  into  a  small 
preserving-pan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  three  quarters  of 
a  pound  of  sugar,  having  previously  rubbed  the  rind  of  an 
orange  upon  it  and  pounded  it,  pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire, 
moving  occasionally  until  quite  tender,  have  ready  buttered  a 
plain  dome  mould,  put  the  apples  into  it,  pressing  them  down 
a  little  close ;  when  half  cold  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  a 
dish,  and  cover  all  over  with  apricot  marmalade ;  when  cold  it  is 
ready  to  serve. 

734.  Apple  Bread,  Russian  fashion. — Put  one  pound  and  a 
half  of  lump  sugar  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water  into  a  round- 
bottomed  copper  preserving-pan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire  and 
reduce  it  to  a  crack,  have  ready  twenty-four  good  brown  pippin 
apples  peeled  and  cut  into  slices,  which  put  into  the  sugar,  keep- 
ing stirred  until  it  becomes  quite  a  thick  marmalade,  take  off 
the  fire  and  put  it  into  a  cylinder  mould,  previously  slightly 
oiled,  shake  it  well  down,  and  let  it  remain  until  quite  cold ; 


PASTRY.  285 


then  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  your  dish ;  have  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly  in  a  stewpan,  which  melt  over  the  fire, 
add  two  glasses  of  good  old  rum,  and  when  partly  cold,  pour 
over  and  serve  with  whipped  cream  in  the  centre,  in  which  you 
have  introduced  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers ; 
if  any  remain,  it  will  be  excellent  to  make  croquettes. 


735.  Apples  saute  in  Butter. — Procure  a  dozen  russet  apples, 
which  cut  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  peel  and 
take  out  the  cores  with  a  round  cutter,  then  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saute-pan,  spread  it  over  the  bottom  and  lay  in  your 
apples,  with  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  juice  of 
two  lemons,  stew  gently  over  a  moderate  fire  ;  when  done,  dress 
them  rather  high  in  crown  upon  your  dish,  melt  three  spoonfuls 
of  red  currant  jelly  in  a  stewpan,  with  which  mix  a  glass  of 
Madeira  wine,  which  pour  over  when  ready  to  serve. 

736.  Croquettes  of  Rice. — Well  wash  half  a  pound  of  the 
best  Carolina  rice,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  milk,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  place  it  upon 
the  fire,  stir  until  boiling,  then  place  it  upon  a  slow  fire,  cover 
the  stewpan,  and  let  simmer  very  slowly  until  quite  tender ; 
rub  the  rind  of  a  lemon  upon  a  lump  of  sugar,  weighing  a 
quarter  of  a  pound,  pound  it  in  a  mortar  quite  fine,  add  it  to 
the  rice,  with  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  (mix  well),  stir  them  a  few 
minutes  longer  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  thicken,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil,  lay  out  upon  a  dish,  when  cold  form  it  into  a  number 
of 'small  balls,  or  pears,  or  into  long  square  pieces,  according  to 
fancy ;  have  three  or  four  eggs  in  a  basin  well  whisked,  dip 
each  piece  in  singly,  and  then  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  them  gently  with  a  knife,  dip  them  again  into  the  eggs 
and  bread-crumbs,  put  them  into  a  wire  basket,  which  put  in  a 
stewpan  of  very  hot  lard,  fry  a  nice  light  yellow  color,  drain  on 
a  cloth,  dress  them  pyramidically  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve 
with  powdered  sugar  sifted  over  them. 


737.  Croquettes  of  Macaroni. — Blanch  six  ounces  of  maca- 
roni in  two  quarts  of  water  until  tender,  then  strain  and  put  it 
in  a  basin  of  cold  water ;  when  cold  cut  it  into  pieces  half  an 


286  JELLIES. 


inch  in  length,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  containing  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  boiling  milk,  in  which  you  have  infused  a  stick  of 
vanilla,  boil  until  it  becomes  thickish,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  powdered  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  the  yolks  of  eight 
eggs,  stir  them  well  in  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  thicken,  then 
pour  out  upon  a  dish,  and  proceed  precisely  as  for  the  croquettes 
of  rice. 


738.  Pastry  Cream  sauted. — Put  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  in  a 
stewpan,  with  two  good  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  mix  quite 
smooth  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  then  add  a  pint  of  boiling  milk 
or  cream,  stir  in  by  degrees,  and  place  it  over  the  fire,  keeping 
stirred  until  it  thickens,  add  an  ounce  of  butter,  six  ounces  of 
sugar,  two  ounces  of  crushed  ratafias,  a  little  orange-flower 
water,  and  three  whole  eggs,  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and 
stir  it  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  set ; 
then  pour  it  out  upon  a  saute-pan,  previously  oiled,  and  when 
quite  cold  cut  it  into  pieces  one  inch  wide  and  two  and  a  half 
long,  dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  twice  over,  the  same 
as  for  croquettes,  saute  them  in  the  same  manner,  dress  upon  a 
napkin  as  high  as  you  can,  with  sifted  sugar  over,  they  may  be 
flavored  also  with  vanilla  or  lemon.  They  may  be  varied  in 
shape  according  to  fancy. 


JELLIES. 

NOTHING,  I  am  confident,  will  give  you  more  pleasure  than  trying  the 
receipts  which  I  am  now  about  giving  you ;  they  are  for  jellies,  that  is, 
those  made  from  gelatinous  substances  of  animal  production.  They  are 
the  most  wholesome  productions  of  cookery,  and  are  slightly  nourishing 
and  fortifying  without  being  exciting.  You  will  find  the  receipts  as 
simple  as  possible ;  and  you  will  perceive  that,  when  you  have  made 
the  foundation  stock  to  perfection,  they  may  be  varied  in  twenty  or 
more  different  ways,  by  changing  the  flavor,  fruits,  or  colors. 

739.  Jelly  Stock,  made  from  calf's  feet,  requires  to  be  made 
the  day  previous  to  being  used.  Take  two  calf's  feet,  cut  them 
up,  and  boil  in  three  quarts  of  water ;  as  soon  as  it  boils  remove 
it  to  the  corner  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  for  five  hours,  keeping 


JELLIES.  287 


it  skimmed,  pass  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  let  it 
remain  until  quite  hard,  then  remove  the  oil  and  fat,  and  wipe 
the  top  dry.  Place  in  a  stewpan  one  gill  of  water,  one  of 
sherry,  half  a  pound  of  lump  sugar,  the  juice  of  four  lemons, 
the  rinds  of  two,  and  the  whites  and  shells  of  five  eggs,  whisk 
until  the  sugar  is  melted,  then  add  the  jelly,  place  it  on  the 
fire,  and  whisk  until  boiling,  pass  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  pour- 
ing that  back  again  which  comes  through  first  until  quite  clear ; 
it  is  then  ready  for  use,  by  putting  it  in  moulds  or  glasses. 


740.  Gelatine  and  Isinglass  Jelly  is  made  as  above,  using 
one  ounce  and  a  half  of  either,  and  boil  in  one  quart  of  water, 
reduce  to  half ;  if  not  required  very  clear,  as  for  lemon  jelly,  it 
need  not  be  run  through  a  bag,  but  merely  through  a  fine 
sieve. 


741.  Hartshorn  Jelly. — Use  half  a  pound  of  hartshorn 
shavings,  boil  in  three  quarts  of  water,  and  reduce  to  one; 
proceed  as  before.  Also  Arney's  jelly  powder  can  be  used  in- 
stead of  any  of  the  above,  by  dissolving  in  boiling  water. 


742.  Gold  or  Silver  Jelly,  or  both  mixed,  is  made  with 
eau  de  vie  de  Dantzic,  mixing  the  gold  or  silver  leaves  with  a 
little  jelly,  ornamenting  the  bottom  of  the  mould  with  it,  which 
place  in  ice  till  set,  fill  with  very  clear  calf's  foot  jelly.  It  can 
also  be  made  by  cutting  up  a  quarter  of  a  sheet  of  gold  leaf  in 
a  glass  of  pale  brandy,  and  use  as  the  former. 


743.  Maresquino  Jelly  is  made  by  mixing  six  liqueur- 
glasses  of  maresquino  with  a  quart  of  clarified  calf's  foot  jelly  ; 
peaches  or  other  fruits  cut  in  quarters  may  be  added. 


744.  Rum-Punch,   Curacoa,  Noyeau,  are  made  with  the 
same  quantity,  and  as  the  former. 


745.  French  Jellies  may  be  made  with  all  kinds  of  fresh 


288  JELLIES. 


fruits,  filling  the  mould  by  degrees,  the  jelly  first,  let  it  set,  then 
the  fruit,  and  so  on  till  full,  the  mould  being  buried  in  ice ; 
when  ready  to  serve  dip  in  hot  water,  mix  it  well,  and  turn  out 
carefully  on  your  dish.  In  the  winter,  preserved  fruits  in  syrup 
may  be  used,  decorating  the  mould  with  them,  pouring  in  a 
little  jelly  at  a  time  until  it  is  cold,  and  fill  up  by  degrees  ;  pro- 
ceed as  above. 


746.  Orange  Jelly. — Procure  five  oranges  and  one  lemon, 
take  the  rind  off  two  of  the  oranges,  and  half  of  the  lemon,  and 
remove  the  pith,  put  them  into  a  basin,  and  squeeze  the  juice  of 
the  fruit  into  it ;  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  into  a 
stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  set  it  to  boil  until  it  be- 
comes a  thick  syrup,  when  take  it  off,  and  add  the  juice  and  rind 
of  the  fruits,  cover  the  stewpan,  and  place  it  again  on  the  fire ; 
as  soon  as  boiling  commences  skim  well,  and  add  one  glass  of 
water  by  degrees,  which  will  assist  its  clarification,  let  it  boil 
another  minute,  when  add  half  an  ounce  of  good  isinglass,  dis- 
solved as  directed  (No.  740),  pass  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  add  a 
few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal  to  give  an  orange  tint,  and  then 
fill  a  mould  and  place  it  on  ice  ;  turn  out  as  before. 


747.  Lemon  Jelly  is  made  the  same  way,  only  using  six  lem- 
ons and  the  rind  of  one ;  serve  quite  white,  and  add  a  gill  of  Bu- 
cellas,  or  any  very  pale  wine. 

Calf's  foot  stock,  reduced  and  clarified,  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  isinglass. 

748.  Whipped  Jellies  are  made  from  any  of  the  above  by 
placing  some  warm  jelly  in  a  large  bowl  or  basin  on  ice,  and 
when  nearly  cold  whisking  it ;  pour  quickly  in  a  mould  set  on 
ice  and  salt,  where  let  remain  till  ready  for  serving  ;  dip  it  in 
lukewarm  water,  strike  gently,  taking  it  in  the  right  hand,  place 
the  left  on  it,  turn  it  over,  if  it  shakes  in  the  mould,  let  it  grad- 
ually slip  off  your  hand  on  the  dish,  and  remove  the  mould. 
All  jellies  are  removed  the  same  way. 

749.  Bohemian  Jelly  Creams  may  be  made  of  any  flavor 
as  jellies,  and  either  ripe  fruit  or  with  marmalade  or  jam,  to 


JELLIES.  289 

which  add  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  a  pint  of  water,  in  which 
one  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass  has  been  dissolved,  or  a  pint 
of  reduced  clarified  calf's  foot  jelly,  stir  together  in  a  bowl 
placed  on  ice ;  when  nearly  cold,  stir  quickly  in  three  parts  of 
a  pint  of  whipped  cream,  fill  the  mould,  which  should  be  kept 
on  ice,  and  turn  out  as  before.  A-  small  bottle  of  Crosse  and 
Blackwell's  jelly  may  be  used  instead  of  the  isinglass  or  jelly, 
by  uncorking  and  placing  the  bottle  in  a  stewpan  of  hot  water 
till  dissolved,  or  pour  it  in  a  clean  stewpan,  and  reduce  it  one 
third.  Cherries,  raspberries,  strawberries,  currants,  and  goose- 
berries must  be  passed  through  a  sieve ;  but  apricots,  peaches, 
apples,  pears,  quinces,  pineapples,  and  marmalade  may  be  used 
as  they  are.  Creams  may  be  made  of  any  flavor,  and  of  either 
ripe  fruits,  jams,  or  marmalade ;  they  are  made  plain,  thus : 
put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  ounces  of 
sugar,  beat  it  up  with  a  spoon  until  white ;  in  another  stewpan 
have  a  pint  of  milk  and  one  ounce  of  isinglass,  boil  ten  minutes, 
stir  continually  to  prevent  burning,  flavor  with  vanilla  or  any- 
thing to  your  taste,  pour  the  milk  on  the  eggs  and  sugar,  put 
on  the  fire,  stir  well  together,  do  not  let  it  boil,  pass  through  a 
tammy  into  a  round  bowl ;  when  cold,  set  on  ice,  add  two  or 
three  glasses  of  liqueur,  keep  stirring  its  contents,  and  when 
setting,  add  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  cream  well  whipped,  mix 
well  together,  and  pour  into  your  mould  in  the  ice,  and  keep 
there  till  required ;  turn  out  as  before. 


750.  Charlotte  Russe. — Line  the  inside  of  a  plain  round 
mould  with  Savoy  biscuits,  cutting  and  placing  them  at  the 
bottom  to  form  a  rosette,  standing  them  upright  and  close  to- 
gether, fill  with  any  of  the  above  creams,  omitting  the  fruits, 
place  the  mould  in  ice,  let  it  remain  till  ready  to  serve,  turn 
over  on  a  dish,  and  remove  the  mould. 


751.  Strawberry  Charlotte. — Line  a  plain  round  mould  with 
ripe  strawberries  by  burying  the  mould  hi  ice  to  the  rim,  and 
dipping  the  strawberries  in  calf's  foot  jelly,  first  covering  the 
bottom  with  them  cut  in  halves,  the  cut  side  downwards,  after- 
wards building  them  up  the  sides,  the  jelly  (which  must  be  cold, 
but  not  set)  causing  them  to  adhere ;  when  finished,  fill  it  with 

13 


290  JELLIES. 


the  cream  as  directed  for  the  charlotte  russe,  and  when  ready 
to  serve  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon 
your  dish.  The  cream  must  be  very  nearly  set  when  you  pour 
it  in,  or  it  would  run  between  the  strawberries  and  produce  a 
bad  effect. 

752.  Chartreuse  Cake  of  variegated  Fruits. — Line  a  char- 
lotte mould  very  tastefully  with  various  kinds  of  fruits  (such  as 
stoned  cherries,  strawberries,  pieces  of  peaches,  apricots,  &c.) 
by  dipping  them  into  jelly,  forming  some  design  at  the  bottom 
of  the  mould,  and  building  them  in  reverse  rows  up  the  sides, 
having  the  mould  previously  placed  in  ice,  when  well  set,  termi- 
nate as  in  the  last. 

753.  Blancmange. — To  one  quart  of  milk  add  one  ounce  of 
isinglass,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  cinnamon,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  half  of  the  peel  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  bay-leaf,  simmer  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  till  the 
isinglass  is  dissolved,  pass  it  through  a  napkin  into  a  basin,  and 
pour  into  a  mould.     This  can  be  made  any  color  or  flavor  that 
will  not  curdle  the  milk ;  the  milk  of  bitter  almonds  may  be 
added  to  flavor  it. 

754.  Another. — Put  into  a  bowl  about  a  pint  of  clear  calf 's- 
foot  jelly  warm,  break  six  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  and  pour  them 
gradually  into  the  jelly,  beating  all  the  time ;  put  on  the  fire 
and  whisk  till  nearly  boiling,  set  it  on  ice  or  in  cold  water,  keep 
stirring  till  nearly  cold,  and  fill  your  mould.     You  may  add 
whatever  flavor  you  like. 

755.  Trifles  should  be  made  early  in  the  day  on  which  they 
are  wanted ;  take  a  stale  Savoy  cake,  cut  it  in  slices  of  one  inch 
thick,  and  lay  it  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish ;  lay  on  that  a  thin 
layer  of  any  kind  of  marmalade,  jam,  or  jelly,  have  some  maca- 
roons and  ratafia  cakes  and  lay  on,  and  cover  the  whole  with 
some  sponge  cakes.     For  a  dish  nine  inches  in  diameter,  mix 
two  glasses  of  sherry,  one  of  brandy,  half  a  one  of  rum,  and 
the  same  of  noyeau,  and  pour  over,  and  let  it  remain  until  it  is 
well  soaked,  then  pour  over  about  one  inch  thick  of  rich  custard ; 


PUDDINGS    IN    MOULDS.  291 

put  a  pint  of  cream  into  a  bowl,  with  some  sifted  sugar,  a 
squeeze  of  a  lemon,  and  about  a  tablespoonful  of  the  wine,  &c., 
you  have  put  on  the  cake,  whisk  it  well  up.  I  use  a  trifle- 
blower,  which  saves  some  trouble ;  I  also  use  it  for  all  whipped 
cream ;  and  as  the  froth  rises  remove  it  with  a  spoon  on  to  a 
clean  sieve,  where  let  it  drain,  then  place  it  on  the  custard  until 
it  is  high  and  handsome. 

I  have  occasionally,  when  being  in  a  hurry,  and  having  no 
cream  by  me,  proceeded  as  above,  and  made  the  whip  with  the 
whites  of  eggs,  and  some  very  white  peach  or  egg-plum  mar- 
malade together,  until  it  makes  firm  froth  or  whip,  which  put 
on  the  custard ;  this  may  also  be  colored  a  nice  pink. 

Trifles  are  generally  considered  unwholesome ;  I  think  it  is 
because  they  are  often  made  too  long  before  they  are  wanted, 
and  no  spirit  is  used  in  the  cake,  the  consequence  is,  the  cream 
turns  sour. 

The  remains  of  this  make  an  excellent  pudding. 


PUDDINGS  IN  MOULDS. 

WE  have  already,  in  the  Comforts  for  Invalids,  given  several  of  the 
most  simple  receipts.  I  prefer  using,  in  these  kinds  of  puddings,  as  the 
principal  ingredient,  stale  Savoy  cake,  or  sponge  cakes,  or  ladies'  fingers, 
and,  if  I  cannot  get  them,  crumbs  of  stale  bread ;  they  may  be  made 
in  a  hundred  different  ways,  according  to  the  fancy  and  taste  of  the 
cook ;  the  mould  should  be  buttered  and  papered ;  they  may  be  either 
baked  or  steamed. 

There  is  hardly  any  of  our  sex,  from  childhood  to  old  age,  but  loves 
this  truly  English  mixture,  which  appears  upon  our  tables  in  a  hundred 
different  shapes,  but  always  under  the  same  name  ;  and  I  should  not 
fancy  my  labors  complete  if  I  did  not  produce  a  new  one  of  my  own 
invention ;  I  therefore  beg  you  to  accept  of  the  dedication,  as  I  intend 
to  call  it— 

756.  Pudding  a  la  Eloise. — It  is  made  as  follows:  take 
half  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs,  which  put  in  a  basin,  with  two 
ounces  of  sago,  six  ounces  of  chopped  suet,  six  eggs,  five  ounces 
of  moist  sugar,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  either  orange,  lemon,  or 
apricot  marmalade ;  mix  all  well  together,  and  ornament  the 
bottom  of  the  mould  with  green  angelica  in  syrup,  and  Smyrna 
raisins,  and  fill  up  with  the  mixture.  Place  the  mould  in  a 
stewpan  containing  water  to  half  the  height  of  the  mould,  and 
boil  gently  for  two  hours ;  remove  it  from  the  mould,  and  serve 


292  PUDDINGS    IN    MOULDS. 

with  a  sauce  made  of  a  tablespoonful  of  either  of  the  marma- 
lades, or  of  currant  or  apple  jelly  and  two  glasses  of  sherry 
poured  over.  This,  I  assure  you,  received  great  praise  from  the 
little  party  of  juveniles  that  I  had  the  other  day. 


757.  Pudding  a  la  Heine. — Butter  and  paper  the  mould, 
fill  up  with  cake  or  bread-crumbs,  when  full  pour  some  custard 
in  until  it  will  hold  no  more ;  this  may  be  flavored  with  any 
white  liquor  or  essence  you  please,  for  instance,  citron  (then  it 
is  called  Pudding  a  la  Reine  au  Citron),  or  orange ;  use  peel 
thinly  sliced,  and  so  on  for  any  flavor  you  may  give  it. 


758.  Mince-meat  Pudding. — Butter  and  paper  the  mould, 
then  put  a  layer  of  cake  and  a  layer  of  mince-meat  alternately, 
till  full,  then  add  the  custard. 


759.  Demi-Plum  Pudding. — Prepare  the  mould,  then  add 
a  layer  of  plum  pudding,  broken  in  pieces,  that  has  been  left 
from  the  previous  day,  alternately,  till  full,  fill  up  with  custard, 
and  steam  or  bake  for  three  minutes.  The  remains  of  any  kind 
of  pudding  may  be  used  thus. 


760.  Trifle  Pudding. — Prepare  the  mould,  and  fill  with  the 
same  ingredients  as  directed  for  trifle,  taking  care  that  the 
wine,  &c.,  is  well  soaked  in  before  adding  the  custard.     Steam 
or  bake  thirty  minutes.     The  sides  and  tops  of  these  puddings 
may  be  ornamented  with  cut  angelica,  hops,  or  candied  orange 
or  lemon-peel,  in  any  fanciful  design  you  please,  and  they  may 
be  served  with  any  kind  of  wine  sauce. 

761.  Carrot  Pudding. — Mix  in  a  bowl  half  a  pound  of  flour, 
half  a  pound  of  chopped  suet,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
grated  carrot,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  currants,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  brown 
or  sifted  white ;  place  these  in  a  mould  or  dish,  beat  up  two 
whole  eggs,  the  yolks  of  four  in  a  gill  of  milk,  grate  a  little  nutmeg 
in  it,  and  add  it  to  the  former ;  bake  or  steam  forty-five  minutes. 


PUDDINGS  BOILED  IN  CLOTHS.  293 

PUDDINGS  BOILED  IN  CLOTHS. 
The  principal  one,  and  the  most  celebrated,  is  the  plum  pudding. 


762.  Plum  Pudding. — Pick  and  stone  one  pound  of  the 
best  Malaga  raisins,  which  put  in  a  basin,  with  one  pound  of 
currants  (well  washed,  dried,  and  picked),  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  good  beef  suet  (chopped,  but  not  too  fine),  three  quarters  of 
a  pound  of  white  or  brown  sugar,  two  ounces  of  candied  lemon- 
and  orange-peel,  two  ounces  of  candied  citron,  six  ounces  of 
flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs,  with  a  little 
grated  nutmeg  ;  mix  the  whole  well  together,  with  eight  whole 
eggs  and  a  little  milk ;  have  ready  a  plain  or  ornamented  pud- 
ding-mould, well  butter  the  interior,  pour  the  above  mixture 
into  it,  cover  a  sheet  of  paper  over,  tie  the  mould  in  a  cloth, 
put  the  pudding  into  a  large  stewpan  containing  boiling  water, 
and  let  boil  quite  fast  for  four  hours  and  a  half  (or  it  may  be 
boiled  by  merely  tying  it  in  a  pudding-cloth  previously  well 
floured,  forming  the  shape  by  laying  the  cloth  in  a  round- 
bottomed  basin  and  pouring  the  mixture  in,  it  will  make  no 
difference  in  the  time  required  for  boiling) ;  when  done,  take 
out  of  the  cloth,  turn  from  the  mould  upon  your  dish,  sprinkle 
a  little  powdered  sugar  over,  and  serve  with  the  following  sauce 
in  a  boat :    Put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  a  gill  of  milk ;  mix  well  to- 
gether, add  a  little  lemon-peel,  and  stir  over  the  fire  uutil  be- 
coming thickish  (but  do  not  let  it  boil),  when  add  two  glasses 
of  brandy,  and  serve  separate. 

The  above  sauce  may  be  served,  poured  over  the  pudding,  if 
approved  of. 

An  excellent  improvement  to  a  plum  pudding  is  to  use  half 
a  pound  of  beef  marrow  cut  into  small  dice,  omitting  the  same 
quantity  of  suet. 

763.  Rowley  Powley. — Roll  out  about  two  pounds  of  paste 
(TSTo.  685),  cover  it  with  any  jam  or  marmalade  you  like,  roll  it 
over  and  tie  it  loose  in  a  cloth,  well  tying  each  end ;  boil  one 
hour  and  serve,  or  cut  it  in  slices  and  serve  with  sauce  over. 


764.  Plum  Bolster,  or  Spotted  Dick. — Roll  out  two  pounds 


294  PLAIN    BAKED    PUDDINGS    IN    DISHES. 

of  paste  (No.  685),  having  some  Smyrna  raisins  well  washed, 
and  place  them  on  it  here  and  there,  roll  over,  tie  in  a  cloth, 
and  boil  one  hour,  and  serve  with  butter  and  brown  sugar. 


765.  Plain  Bolster. — Roll  as  above,  sift  some  white  or 
brown  sugar  over  it,  the  addition  of  a  little  powdered  cinnamon 
to  the  sugar  is  an  improvement,  roll  over  and  proceed  as  be- 
fore. 


766.  Apple  Dumplings. — Peel  and  cut  out  the  core  with  a 
cutter,  cover  it  with  paste  (No.  685),  tie  in  a  cloth,  and  boil  ac- 
cording to  size ;  these  are  all  the  better  for  being  boiled  and 
kept  in  the  cloth,  hung  up  for  four  or  six  weeks,  and  re-warmed. 
They  may  likewise  be  baked.     These  kind  of  boiled  puddings, 
containing  a  large  quantity  of  paste,  should  be  made  with  flour, 
in  which  is  mixed  one  saltspoonful  of  culinary  alkali  powder  to 
four  pounds  of  flour,  which  will  cause  them  to  be  much  lighter. 

PLAIN  BAKED  PUDDINGS  IN  DISHES. 

767.  Marrow  Pudding  may  be  made  in  various  ways;  it  is 
best  with  half  a  pound  of  ladies'  finger  cakes,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  beef  marrow,  chopped  fine,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
currants  well  cleaned,  half  an  ounce  of  candied  lemon-peel,  a 
little  nutmeg,  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  wineglassful  of  wine  or  brandy :  put  these  on 
a  dish,  and  fill  up  with  custard,  having  previously  put  a  border 
of  paste  on  the  rim ;  about  half  an  hour  will  do  it. 


768.  Custard  Pudding. — Make  a  border  of  paste  on  the 
dish,  and  fill  up  with  custard,  grate  a  little  nutmeg  on  the  top. 

Any  kind  of  fruit  puddings  with  custard  may  be  made  in  the 
same  way,  by  placing  them  in  the  custard,  and  sift  some  finely 
powdered  sugar  over,  before  going  to  the  baker's. 


769.  Fruit  Puddings  are  best  made  in  a  basin,  the  basin  to  be 
buttered  and  lined  with  the  paste,  and  then  filled  with  the  fruit, 
which  cover  with  the  paste,  the  paste  should  be  rolled  round  to 


PIES,    ETC.  295 


the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  and  when  the  fruit  is  in,  drawn  to 
the  centre  and  squeezed,  and  then  tied  up  in  a  cloth  kept  on 
purpose,  and  boiled  in  plenty  of  water ;  when  done,  which  will 
be  according  to  the  nature  of  the  fruit  you  put  in  it,  serve  it 
either  turned  out  of  the  basin  or  not.  The  cover  should  be  of 
the  same  thickness  as  the  sides.  Sugar  should  be  added  before 
being  covered. 

770.  Apples  should  be  pared,  cored,  and  cut  in  quarters,  and 
put  in  with  some  sugar,  a  few  cloves,  and  a  bit  of  lemon-peel. 

771.  Wall   Fruit — as  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots,  and 
Plums, — should  be  cut  in  half,  and  the  kernels  extracted  from 
the  stones  and  added,  a  little  cream,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
pudding,  in  which  a  little  grated  cinnamon  is  added,  may  be 
put  in  at  the  same  time  as  the  fruit ;  use  but  little  sugar. 

772.  Gooseberry,  Rhubarb,  Currants,  red,  white,  and  blade, 
Raspberry  and    Cherry,  Blackberry,    Whorts,  Damson,    and 
Greengage — may  all  be  made  in  a  similar  way. 

773.  Mince  Meat. — Procure  four  pounds  and  a  half  of  kid- 
ney beef  suet,  which  skin  and  chop  very  finely ;   have  also  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  lemon  and  orange-peel ;   the 
same  of  citron,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  cooked  beef,  and 
three  pounds  and  a  half  of  apples,  the  whole  separately,  chop- 
ped very  fine,  and  put  into  a  large  pan  with  four  pounds  and  a 
half  of  currants,  well  washed  and  picked,  two  ounces  of  mixed 
spice,  and  two  pounds  of  sugar  ;  mix  the  whole  well  together 
with  the  juice  of  eight  lemons  and  a  pint  of  brandy,  place  it  in 
jars,  and  tie  down  until  ready  for  use ;  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
Malaga  raisins,  well  stoned  and  chopped,  may  likewise  be  ad- 
ded to  the  above.     It  is  ready  for  use  in  a  few  days. 

774.  Mince  Pies. — Have  a  piece  of  puff-paste,  which  roll  out 
to  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece ;   have  also  a  dozen  tartlet- 
pans,  which  lightly  butter,  cut  out  twelve  pieces  with  a  round 


296  REMOVES. 


cutter  from  the  paste,  each  the  size  of  your  tartlet-pans ;  lay 
them  upon  the  slab,  roll  the  trimming  of  the  paste  again  to  the 
former  thickness,  cut  twelve  other  pieces,  with  which  line  the 
tartlet-pans ;  put  a  piece  of  mince-meat,  made  as  under,  in  each, 
wet  them  round,  place  on  the  lids,  pricking  a  hole  with  a  pin  in 
the  centre,  and  close  them  well  at  the  edges ;  egg  over  lightly, 
and  bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 


775.  Fruit  Pies. — These  are  made  in  pie-dishes,  the  top  of 
which  is  only  covered  with  paste ;  the  edge  of  the  dish  should 
be  wetted,  and  a  strip  of  paste,  about  one  inch  wide  and  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  put  on  it,  then  fill  the  dish  with  the 
fruit,  wet  the  paste  on  the  edge,  and  cover  with  paste,  mark 
the  edge  with  a  roller,  or  the  back  of  a  knife. 


776.  Apple  Pie. — Pare,  cut,  and  core  sufficient  apples  to  fill 
the  dish,  put  a  small  cup  in  the  middle  or  not,  as  you  like,  one 
clove,  to  every  three  apples,  a  pinch  of  pounded  cinnamon,  a 
small  piece  of  chopped  lemon-peel,  and  sugar ;  bake  according 
to  size. 

777.  Rhubarb   and  Apple,  or  Rhubarb  and   Gooseberry, 
Currant    and    Raspberry,    Cherry,   Plum,   Damson,   Pear, 
Quince,  Mulberry,  Whortleberry,  or  Whorts  and  Raspberry, 
Dewberry  and  Raspberry,  or  Cranberry,  may  all  be  made  in 
the  same  way,  in  winter.     A  little  whipped  cream  may  be 
placed  in  the  top,  for  a  variety. 


REMOVES-SECOND  COURSE. 

778.  Chestnut  Pudding,  Nesselrode  fashion. — Blanch  four 
dozen  chestnuts  in  boiling  water,  skim  and  place  them  in  the 
screen,  when  dry  take  them  out,  and  when  cold  put  them  into 
a  mortar,  with  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  half  a  stick  of  vanilla, 
pound  the  whole  well  together,  and  sift  it  through  a  fine  wire 
sieve,  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  beat 


REMOVES.  297 


them  well  together ;  in  another  stewpan  have  a  quart  of  milk, 
when  boiling  pour  it  over  the  other  ingredients,  mixing  well, 
and  stir  over  a  sharp  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken  and  ad- 
heres to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  lay  a  tammy  upon  a 
large  dish,  pour  the  mixture  in  and  rub  it  through  with  two 
wooden  spoons ;  when  cold  place  it  in  a  freezing-pot  and  freeze 
as  directed  (No.  833);  when  frozen  have  a  large  high  ice- 
mould,  which  closes  hermetically,  have  also  two  ounces  of  cur- 
rants and  two  ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins,  soaked  in  four  glasses 
of  marasquino  from  the  previous  day,  with  four  ounces  of  can- 
died citron  cut  in  dice,  put  them  into  the  freezing-pot,  with  a 
pint  of  whipped  cream  and  half  the  meringue  preparation  di- 
rected in  No.  711;  freeze  the  whole  well  together  and  fill 
your  mould,  which  bury  in  ice  and  salt  until  ready  to  serve, 
then  dip  it  into  lukewarm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your 
dish. 

779.  Iced  Cabinet  Pudding. — Have  ready  prepared,  and 
rather  stale,  a  sponge-cake  as  directed  (No.  859),  which  cut 
into  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  and  rather  smaller  than  the 
mould  you  intend  making  the  pudding  in,  soak  them  well  with 
noyeau  brandy ;  then  lay  some  preserved  dry  cherries  at  the 
bottom  of  the  mould,  with  a  few  whole  ratafias,  lay  one  of  the 
slices  over,  then  more  cherries  and  ratafias,  proceeding  thus 
until  the  mould  is  three  parts  full ;  have  ready  a  quart  of  the 
custard  (No.  804),  omitting  half  the  quantity  of  isinglass, 
pour  it  lukewarm  into  your  mould,  which  close  hermetically, 
and  bury  in  ice  and  salt,  where  let  it  remain  at  least  two  hours ; 
when  ready  to  serve  dip  it  in  lukewarm  water,  and  turn  it  out 
upon  your  dish ;  you  have  made  about  half  a  pint  of  custard, 
which  keep  upon  ice,  pour  over  the  pudding  when  ready  to 
serve,  and  sprinkle  a  few  chopped  pistachios  over. 


780.  White  Almond  Pudding  Ices. — Blanch  and  skin  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  with  six  or  eight  bitter 
ones,  when  dry  ard  cold,  place  them  in  a  mortar,  with  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  ten  or  twelve  leaves  of  can- 
died orange-flowers,  pound  well,  sift  through  a  wire  sieve,  and 
place  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  beat  them 
well  together ;  then  in  another  stewpan  have  boiling  a  pint  and 
13* 


298  REMOVES. 


a  half  of  milk,  which  pour  over  the  other  ingredients  by  de- 
grees, keeping  it  stirred,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until  it 
thickens  and  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  rub  it  through 
a  tammy,  add  two  glasses  of  noyeau ;  when  cold  put  into  your 
freezing-pot  to  freeze,  and  when  half  frozen  add  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  whipped  cream,  when  quite  frozen  fill  a  mould,  and 
serve  as  pudding  Nesselrode  fashion. 


781.  Fruit,  Chartreuse  of,  with  Lemon  Jelly. — Make  a 
chartreuse  of  fruit  as  directed  (No.  752),  in  a  round  or  oval 
mould,  having  a  quantity  of  fruit  left ;  having  also  about  a 
quart  of  orange  jelly,  which  place  upon  ice  in  a  bowl,  whisking 
it  until  on  the  point  of  setting,  then  place  a  layer  of  it  in  the 
chartreuse,  then  a  layer  of  the  fruit,  the  jelly,  and  so  on  until 
quite  filled,  place  it  upon  ice,  and  when  set  and  ready  to  serve, 
dip  in  lukewarm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish ;  serve 
garnished  round  with  jelly  in  the  skins  of  the  oranges,  cut  in 
quarters  after  it  has  set,  or  leave  out  the  garnishing. 


782.  Souffle  of  Orange  Iced. — Prepare  about  three  parts 
of  the  quantity  of  ice  as  directed  in  the  last,  to  which,  when 
half  frozen,  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  whipped  orange  jelly  just 
upon  the  point  of  setting,  beat  the  whole  well  together  with 
the  spatula,  working  it  until  well  frozen :  have  a  dozen  and  a 
half  of  oranges,  peeled,  quartered,  and  passed  in  sugar  as  di- 
rected for  vol-au-vent,  and  place  them  in  a  basin  upon  ice ; 
when  ready  to  serve,  make  a  border  of  almond  paste  upon  your 
dish,  in  the  centre  of  which  put  a  little  of  the  ice,  then  a  layer 
of  oranges,  then  the  same  and  oranges  again,  proceeding  thus 
and  finishing  in  pyramid ;  garnish  round  with  various  small 
ripe  fruits. 

783.  Punch  Cake  Souffle. — Break  ten  eggs,  put  the  whites 
in  a  copper  bowl,  and  the  yolks  in  a  basin,  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  four  of  crushed  ratafias,  two  of 
potato  flour,  a  little  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  candied 
orange-flowers,  beat  well  together,  whip  the  whites,  which  stir 
in  lightly  with  the  mixture ;  well  butter  and  bread-crumb  the 
interior  of  an  oval  plain  mould,  butter  also  and  bread-crumb  a 


REMOVES.  299 


band  of  paper  three  inches  broad,  which  tie  round  at  the  top 
of  the  mould,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  half  an  hour  before 
ready  to  serve  stand  it  in  a  moderate  oven  (it  will  take  about 
the  above  time  to  bake),  when  done  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish ; 
have  ready  a  custard  of  three  yolks  of  eggs,  to  which  you 
have  added  two  glasses  of  essence  of  punch,  pour  round  the 
cake  and  serve. 

The  above  mixture  may  be  baked  in  twelve  small  moulds 
and  dressed  in  pyramid,  but  then  they  would  require  more 
sauce. 

SOUFFLE. 

THESE  dishes,  being  the  last  of  the  Dinner,  require  the  greatest  care 
and  taste  in  executing,  as,  by  the  time  they  come  on  the  table,  the  ap- 
petites of  those  around  it  are  supposed  to  be  satisfied ;  the  eye  and  the 
palate  require  to  be  pleased,  in  order  to  sustain  the  enjoyments  of  the 
table ;  this  is  a  period  of  dinner  when  another  of  the  senses  may  be 
gratified  by  the  introduction  of  music  (and  which  is  continually  prac- 
tised on  the  Continent),  and  all  ought  to  be  of  a  light  and  inviting 
character. 

Formerly  it  was  the  custom  never  to  give  a  dinner  without  a  souffle 
as  the  last  dish,  or  professionally  speaking,  remove.  I  do  not  dislike 
them,  but  they  require  the  greatest  care  aud  nicety,  and  are  rather 
difficult  to  perform  in  our  old-fashioned  kitchens,  but  easy  in  my  new 
stove  ;  at  any  rate  I  must  give  you  the  receipt. 

784.  Souffle  of  Lemon,  or  any  other  flavor. — Prepare  a 
crust  or  croustade.  of  fine  paste  (No.  687),  or  water  paste,  by 
lining  a  raised  pie-mould  with  it,  filling  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
finishing  the  edges  as  for  a  raised  pie ;  bake  it  (of  a  very  light 
brown  color)  about  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  when  done, 
empty  out  all  the  bread-crumbs  without  taking  it  out  of  the 
mould,  then  tie  a  band  of  buttered  paper  (four  inches  wide) 
round  the  top,  and  put  it  by  until  wanted.  Put  half  a  pound 
of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  which  mix  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  flour  without  melting  it,  in  another  stewpan  have 
rather  more  than  a  quart  of  milk,  into  which,  when  boiling, 
put  two  sticks  of  vanilla,  place  a  cover  upon  the  stewpan  and 
let  it  remain  until  half  cold,  then  take  out  the  vanilla,  and  pour 
the  milk  upon  the  butter  and  flour,  stir  over  a  sharp  fire,  boil- 
ing it  five  minutes,  then  stir  in  quickly  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs, 
and  sweeten  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar ;  when  cold,  and  an 
hour  and  a  quarter  before  you  are  ready  to  serve,  whip  the 


300  REMOVES. 


whites  of  the  ten  eggs  very  stiff,  stir  them  in  with  the  mixture 
lightly,  pour  it  into  the  croustade,  and  bake  about  an  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven ;  if  going  too  fast,  and  liable  to  be  done  before 
required,  open  the  oven  door,  as  it  ought  to  be  served  the  mo- 
ment it  is  done ;  when  ready  to  serve  take  it  from  the  oven, 
detach  the  band  of  paper,  take  it  from  the  mould,  dress  it  upon 
a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve  immediately. 

These  souffles  may  be  baked  in  a  silver  souffle-case,  if  pre- 
ferred, they  will  take  considerably  less  time  in  baking,  but  fall 
quicker  after  being  taken  from  the  oven ;  any  liquor  or  spirits 
may  be  introduced  in  souffles  of  this  description  if  approved  of. 

This  is  large  enough  for  a  dinner  of  eighteen;  a  quarter 
of  that  quantity  will  make  a  nice  family  one,  baked  in  a  plain 
tart-dish. 


785.  Souffle  of  Orange-flowers. — Proceed  exactly  as  in  the 
last,  but  infusing  an  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers  in  the 
milk  instead  of  the  vanilla. 

786.  Souffle  of  Rice  Cream  is  made  by  using  ground  rice 
instead  of  the  common  flour,  finishing  the  same,  and   using 
any  of  the  flavors  directed  in  the  last  three. 

787.  Souffle  of  Lemon. — Proceed  as  directed  for  souffle  a 
la  vanille,   but   infusing  the   rind  of  two  lemons,  free  from 
pith,  in  the  milk  instead  of  the  vanilla. 


788.  Omelette  Souffle. — Break  six  eggs,  place  the  yolks  in 
one  basin  and  the  whites  in  another ;  add  to  the  yolks  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  lump  sugar,  half  one  of  fecule  of  potato  or 
wheat  flour,  and  ten  drops  of  orange-flower  water;  beat  well 
together;  whip  the  whites,  beginning  rather  slowly  at  first, 
increasing  by  degrees,  until  it  forms  a  stiff  froth ;  then  add 
the  yolks,  very  gently  beating  up  the  whites  as  you  add  it: 
have  ready  a  silver  or  plated  dish  (for  want  of  either,  use 
tin),  and  butter  it  well ;  place  the  mixture  on  it,  and  put  it  into 
a  hot  oven ;  look  that  it  rises ;  if  so,  run  a  knife  round  it ;  sift 
some  sugar  on  it,  place  it  in  the  oven  again,  and  serve,  when 
well  raised,  immediately. 


REMOVES.  301 


789.  Omelette  Souffle  Saute. — The  mixture  is  prepared  pre- 
cisely as  the  last,  but  the  appearance  and  flavor  are  very  differ- 
ent,  being  produced  by  the  different  method  of  cooking  them ; 
put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  very  clean  omelette-pan  over  the 
fire ;  when  melted,  pour  in  half  the  preparation,  place  it  over  a 
very  brisk  fire  a  few  seconds,  then  twist  it  round  in  the  pan, 
which  give  a  jerk,  tossing  the  omelette  half-way  over,  stand  it 
over  the  fire  again,  give  the  pan  another  jerk,  tossing  the  ome- 
lette again  over,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish,  set  it  in  the 
oven,  and  proceed  the  same  with  the  remainder  of  the  prepara- 
tion, which  when  done  turn  over  upon  the  other ;  leave  it  in 
the  oven  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  sprinkle  sugar  over,  sala- 
mander and  serve  very  quickly.  The  butter  the  soufflfe  is  saute 
in  gives  it  a  superior  flavor  to  the  last. 


790.  Cream  Omelette  Souffle. — Proceed  as  in  the  last,  de- 
ducting two  of  the  whites  of  eggs,  and  adding  a  gill  of  whip- 
ped cream,  saute  and  serve  as  before. 


791.  Souffle  Biscuits. — Put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  in  a  basin, 
and  the  whites  in  a  copper  bowl,  add  a  pound  of  sugar,  upon 
which  you  have  rubbed  the  rind  of  a  lemon  previous  to  pounding, 
beat  it  well  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  add  a  gill  of  cream, 
well  whipped,  and  five  ounces  of  flour ;  stir  all  together  lightly, 
whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  very  stiff,  and  stir  them  into  the 
preparation ;  have  ready  ten  small  paper  cases,  fill  each  one 
three  parts  full,  and  fifteen  minutes  before  serving  place  them  in 
a  moderate  oven ;  when  done  shake  sugar  over,  dress  in  pyra- 
mids, upon  a  napkin,  and  serve. 


792.  Souffle,  or  Whipped  Cream. — Take  one  quart  of 
cream,  put  it  into  a  bowl,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  orange-flower  powder  of  water,  and  have  an- 
other bowl  near  you,  over  which  you  must  place  a  sieve  to 
receive  and  drain  the  cream,  whip  the  cream  with  a  whisk,  or 
blow  it  up  with  a  bellows  made  on  purpose,  and  as  it  rises  in  a 
froth,  take  it  off  with  a  spoon,  and  place  it  on  the  sieve ;  con- 
tinue till  all  is  used,  then  put  back  the  drainings,  and  continue 


302  REMOVES. 


until  you  have  none  left,  then  put  it  into  your  dish  or  in  glasses, 
or  on  a  trifle,  and  ornament  with  nonpareils,  or  with  green  citron 
peel  or  angelica  cut  very  fine  and  tastefully.  It  can  likewise  be 
iced. 


793.  Coffee  Souffle    Cream. — Take  about  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  clean  raw  coffee,  heat  it  in  a  clean  saute-pan  on  the 
fire,  so  that  it  gets  hot  through,  but  does  not  burn,  then  put  it 
into  one  quart  of  cream,  and  cover  it  up ;  let  it  cool  as  quickly 
as  possible  on  ice,  add  five  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  and  pro- 
ceed as  above. 

794.  Vanilla  Souffle  Cream. — Cut  a  pod  of  vanilla  small, 
pound  it  with  sugar,  sift  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  add  it  to 
your  cream,  or  add  some  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla,  and  pro- 
ceed as  directed  above. 


795.  Fondue  of  Parmesan  and   Gruyere,  or    any  other 
grated  Cheese. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  six 
ounces  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  mix  them  well  together  (without 
melting  the  butter)  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  rather 
more  than  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  stir  over  the  fire,  boil  twenty 
minutes,  then  add  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  (stir  in  well),  half  a 
pound  of  grated  Parmesan,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated 
Gruyere  cheese ;  season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quar- 
ter do.  of  pepper,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne ;  if  too 
thick  add  two  or  three  whole  eggs  to  give  it  the  consistency  of 
a  souffle,  whip  the  five  whites  of  egg  firm,  stir  them  gently  into  the 
mixture,  have  ready  a  croustade  prepared  as  for  the  souffle  (No. 
784),  pour  in  the  above  mixture,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  it  will  require  a  little  longer  time  than  the  souffle ;  dish 
and  serve  the  same. 

796.  Neapolitan  Fondue. — Prepare  half  of  the  mixture  as 
in  the  last,  but  previous  to  adding  the  whites  of  eggs  stir  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  macaroni  blanched,  and  cut  into 
pieces  an  inch  in  length ;  add  the  whites,  bake,  and  serve  as 
before. 

797.  Fondue  (simple  method). — Put  two  ounces  of  Gruyere 


REMOVES.  303 


and  two  ounces  of  Parmesan  cheese  (grated)  into  a  basin  (or, 
if  you  have  not  got  them,  use  English  cheese),  with  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  cayenne,  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  melted  (mix  well),  whip  the  whites  of  the 
six  eggs,  stir  gently  into  the  other  ingredients,  fill  small  paper 
cases  with  it,  bake  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven,  dress  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  very  hot. 


798.  Fondue  of  Stilton  Cheese. — Put  six  ounces  of  butter 
and  half  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  rub  well  together  with 
a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  a  quart  of  warm  milk,  stir  over  the 
fire  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  -then  add  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs, 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan,  and  half  a 
pound  of  Stilton  cheese  in  small  dice,  season  rather  highly  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne,  add  the  white  of  the  eggs  whipped 
very  stiff,  which  stir  in  lightly ;  have  a  dozen  and  a  half  of 
small  paper  cases,  fill  each  one  three  parts  full,  place  them  in  a 
moderate  oven,  bake  about  twenty  minutes ;  when  done  dress 
them  upon  a  napkin  on  your  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

799.  Cheese  Raminole. — Put  a  gill  of  water  in  a  stewpan,  to 
which  add  two  ounces  of  Gruyere  and  the  same  quantity  of 
Parmesan  cheese  (grated),  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  cayenne 
pepper,  and  salt  if  required,  set  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boil- 
ing stir  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  flour ;  keep  stirring  over 
the  fire  until  the  paste  becomes  dryish  and  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan  quite  white,  then  add  three  or  four  eggs  by  degrees, 
until  forming  a  paste  like  No.  724,  butter  a  baking-sheet  well, 
and  lay  the  paste  out  in  pieces  upon  it  with  a  tablespoon,  making 
them  long,  and  half  the  size  of  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  ;  egg  over, 
and  lay  a  small  piece  of  Gruyere  cheese  upon  each,  put  them 
into  the  oven  about  twenty  minutes  before  they  are  required ; 
bake  them  a  little  crisp,  and  serve  very  hot,  dressed  in  pyramid 
upon  a  napkin. 

800.  Puff  Cheesecake. — Make  half  a  pound  of  paste  (No. 
686),  which  roll  very  thin,  have  ready  some  grated  Parmesan 
and  Gruyere  cheese  mixed,  throw  half  a  handful  over  the  paste, 
which  fold  in  three,  roll  it  out  to  the  same  thickness  again, 


304  REMOVES. 


cover  again  with  cheese,  proceeding  thus  until  you  have  used 
the  whole  of  the  cheese  (half  a  pound),  then  cut  them  into  any 
shapes  you  like  with  pastry  cutters,  set  on  a  wet  baking-sheet, 
egg  them  over,  bake  a  nice  color  in  a  moderate  oven,  dress  in 
pyramid  upon  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

801.  Cheese  Souffle,  or  Diablotins. — Put  a  gill  of  milk  in  a 
stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  when  boiling,  stir  in  two 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  keep  stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  bottom 
of  the  stewpan  is  dry,  then  add  four  eggs  by  degrees,  half  a 
pound  of  Gruyere,  and  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  ; 
mix  well  in,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne  rather  highly, 
mould  the  paste  into  little  balls  with  the  forefinger  against  the 
side  of  the  stewpan  containing  it,  drop  them  into  hot  lard ;  fry 
of  a  nice  light  brown,  dress  in  pyramid  upon  a  napkin,  and 
serve  very  hot ;  a  quarter  of  that  quantity  may  of  course  be 
made. 

802.  Turban  of  Almond  Cake  Iced. — This  is  a  very  good 
and  useful  second  course  remove.     Make  half  a  pound  of  puff 
paste,  give  it  nine  rolls,  rolling  it  the  last  time  to  the  thickness 
of  a  penny-piece,  have  ready  blanched  and  chopped  half  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  which  put  in  a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of 
powdered  sugar  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  or  a  little  more  if 
required ;  spread  it  over  the  paste  the  thickness  of  a  shilling,  and 
with  a  knife  cut  the  paste  into  pieces  two  inches  and  a  half  in 
length  and  nearly  one  in  breadth,  place  them  upon  a  baking- 
sheet,  and  bake  nicely  a  very  light  brown  color,  in  a  moderate 
oven,  dress  them  on  a  stiff  border  of  any  kind  of  stiff  jam  or 
marmalade,  so  as  to  form  a  large  crown  according  to  the  size 
you  require  it ;  then  fill  the  interior  with  vanilla  cream,  or  any 
other,  iced,  but  not  too  hard,  and  bring  it  up  to  a  point ;  the 
cake  may  be  cut  in  any  shape  you  fancy,  but  never  make  them 
too  large. 

803.  Turban  of  Pastry. — Observe  that  any  kind  of  pastry 
fourree,  as  No.  712,  or  meringue,  No.   711,  will,  if  dished  as 
above,  with  iced  cream,  make  a  very  nice  remove. 

804.  Custard  for  Puddings. — Take  one  pint  of  milk,  to 


DESSERT.  305 


which  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  beat  up,  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon 
and  nutmeg,  and  a  bay-leaf.  For  mould  puddings,  the  mould 
should  be  filled  first  with  the  bread,  &c.,  and  the  custard  added ; 
should  it  be  wanted  alone  in  glasses,  it  must  then  be  put  into 
a  saucepan  on  the  fire  until  it  nearly  boils,  keep  stirring  it  well 
during  the  time. 

805.  Batter  for  Fritters. — Take  half  a  pound  of  flour,  one 
ounce  of  butter,  which  melt,  the  whites  of  three  eggs  well  beaten, 
half  a  glass  of  beer,  and  enough  water  to  make  a  thick  batter. 


DESSERT. 

LETTER  No.  XVI. 

MA  CHERE  ELOISE,— Remembering  your  admiration  of  the  small  dessert 
I  put  on  the  table  at  my  last  birth-day  party,  you  will,  I  am  confident, 
feel  interested  in  the  description  of  desserts  in  general,  and  I  will  give 
you  a  few  more  hints  and  receipts,  which  will  tend  both  to  economize 
as  well  as  gratify  the  palate  and  sight ;  and  very  different  in  style  from 
some  of  our  visitors,  who,  though  they  spend  their  money  freely  enough 
when  they  give  their  Christmas  party,  but  still  keep  up  the  old  style  of 
covering  their  table  with  dry  sweet  stuff,  and,  in  the  way  of  fruits,  dis- 
play oranges  in  their  original  golden  skin,  Ribston  pippins  in  their  mourn- 
ful ones,  American  apples  with  their  vermilion  cheeks,  large  winter 
pears  in  their  substantial  state,  the  whole  ornamented  and  crowned  with 
laurel,  no  doubt  to  signify  their  immortality,  being  present  upon  almost 
every  table  from  year  to  year,  especially  the  unsociable  pear,  which  no 
teeth  can  ever  injure,  but,  on  the  contrary,  it  may  injure  the  teetli.  A 
very  comical  friend  assured  us,  as  a  fact,  that  he  had  met  one  of  the 
before-mentioned  pears  in  three  different  parties  in  less  than  a  week, 
having,  for  curiosity's  sake,  engraved  lu's  initial  with  a  penknife  upon  one 
he  was  served  with  at  the  first  party.  "  And,  talk  about  pine-apples," 
said  he,  "  many  times  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  the  same, 
and  even  as  much  as  twice  in  less  than  twelve  hours,  quite  in  a  different 
direction,  that  is,  on  a  dinner-table  in  the  west-end  about  eight  in  the 
evening,  and,  at  midnight,  on  the  supper-table  of  a  civic  ball ;  at  dinner 
being  perched  on  an  elevated  stand  in  the  centre  of  a  large  wide  table, 
so  much  out  of  reach  that  it  would  almost  require  a  small  ladder  to  get 
at  it ;  and  I  must  say  that  every  guest  present  paid  due  respect  to  his 
high  position,  and  never  made  an  assault,  or  even  an  attempt  to  disturb, 


306  DESSERT. 


much  less  to  uncrown  his  fruity  majesty,  though,  now  and  then,  one  of 
the  fair  guests,  as  a  compliment,  would  remark  to  the  amphitrion,  that 
she  never  saw  in  her  life  a  finer  pine-apple.  '  Very  fine,  very  fine  in- 
deed, madam !  will  you  allow  me  to  offer  you  part  of  an  orange  ?'  '  Not 
any  more,  I  thank  you,  sir,'  being  the  reply." 

On  the  supper  table  this  aristocratic  and  inaccessible  pine  still  holds 
its  kingly  rank,  and  is  still  proudly  perched  on  the  top  of  a  sideboard, 
surrounded  by  Portugal  or  Rhenish  grapes,  and  to  prevent  its  detlirone- 
ment  by  removing  the  grapes  the  intelligent  waiter  has  carefully  tied  it 
to  the  ornament  that  supports  it.  Our  friend,  who  is  a  literary  gentle- 
man, has  promised  to  write  a  small  brochure,  to  be  called  the  '  Memoirs 
of  a  Pineapple  in  London,'  which  I  am  confident,  will  not  fail  of  being 
very  interesting,  having  had  the  advantage  of  mixing  in  so  many  diffe- 
rent societies. 

I  know,  dearest,  what  will  be  your  feeling  after  the  perusal  of  the 
above,  that  I  have  given  vent  to  a  little  scandal ;  but  it  is  the  truth, 
and  of  almost  daily  occurrence,  so  that  there  is  no  mystery  about  it.  I 
do  not  mean  that  it  is  very  general,  but  is  certainly  often  practised ;  for 
my  part,  you  know  my  style :  I  never  attempt  to  astonish  my  guests 
with  extensive  wonders  of  nature  and  art  in  any  shape  of  eatable,  but 
simply  follow  the  middle  prices,  by  which  I  always  can  procure  the  best 
quality  of  article  in  comestibles ;  and  nothing  pleases  me  more  when  I 
give  a  party  than  that  every  dish  on  the  table  should  be  partaken  of, 
and  still  more  so  when  entirely  eaten.  I  do  not  approve  of  meanness ; 
though  a  great  economist,  I  abhor  it  as  much  as  I  do  extravagance ;  and 
we  never,  I  assure  you,  give  a  single  party  without  being  perfectly  sat- 
isfied that  it  does  not  interfere  with  our  daily  comforts,  that  is,  as  re- 
gards financial  matters.  For  dessert  in  summer  I  confine  it  entirely  to 
fresh  fruit,  compotes,  ices,  and  a  few  almond  cakes,  and  Savoy  biscuits. 
Fruits,  preserves,  oranges,  compotes,  and  biscuits  in  winter. 

The  list  of  names  I  here  inclose  to  you  consists  of  moderately  priced 
articles,  and  will  enable  you  to  make  a  good  appearance  for  your  dessert, 
and  at  a  trifling  expense. 

The  first  thing  I  wish  you  to  be  initiated  in  is,  what  is  called  in  France 
"  compote,"  which  may  be  made  almost  from  any  kind  of  fruits,  espe- 
cially apples,  pears,  apricots,  plums,  greengages,  peaches,  cherries,  goose- 
berry, oranges,  <fec.  It  was  on  my  second  visit  to  Havre  that  I  took 
lessons  in  confectionery ;  I  paid  as  much  as  ten  shillings  per  lesson  to 
M.  Bombe  Glace,  that  being  the  "  nom  de  guerre"  of  the  first  confectioner 
there ;  but  you  know,  dearest,  how  quick  I  am  learning,  especially  any- 
thing in  the  way  of  cookery.  I  really  must  say  I  do  love  cooking,  so 
you  may  fancy  that  the  clever  artist,  Monsieur  le  Confiseur,  had  not 
very  many  of  our  demi-souvereign,  as  he  called  them,  from  us ;  my  Mr. 
B.  thought  at  the  time  that  it  was  quite  ridiculous  and  extravagant  to 
pay  so  much  for  a  trifle  like  that ;  but  let  me  tell  you,  dear,  he  had  not 
then  tasted  them ;  but  now  all  the  wall-  and  tree-fruits  from  our  garden, 
if  I  were  to  follow  entirely  his  taste,  would  be  converted  into  compote, 
he  being  so  remarkably  fond  of  it. 


DESSERT.  307 


COMPOTE. 

Procure  a  very  clean  tin  stewpan  or  a  small  sugar- pan ;  it  being  more 
preferable  for  boiling  sugar,  why  I  cannot  tell,  never  having  asked  the 
reason,  being  so  anxious  to  know  other  things  which  I  thought  more 
serviceable.  Since  I  have  tried  it  in  a  common  stewpan,  it  has  answered 
very  well ;  and  knowing  by  experience  that  your  culinary  laboratory  is 
still  in  its  innocent  infancy,  you  might  be  prevented  from  making  an 
immediate  experiment  by  waiting  till  you  could  get  one ;  you  may  use 
that  three-pint  size  stewpan  for  it,  which  I  lent  you  for  a  pattern  about 
three  weeks  ago,  and  after  which  I  shall  feel  extremely  gratified  by  its 
reappearance  on  my  kitchen  shelf  at  No.  5,  being  out  of  the  middle 
row  of  them,  because  every  time  I  enter  my  kitchen  it  puts  me  in 
mind  of  a  very  pretty  woman  minus  one  of  her  front  teeth. 

Excuse  me  if  I  claim  it  of  you,  but  I  want  to  teach  you  punctuality 
as  well  as  economy. 

806.  Winter  Pears. — To  put  an  end  to  its  long  and  hard 
existence,  I  would  cut  it  into  six  or  eight  pieces  lengthwise, 
peel  and  cut  out  the  cores,  giving  them  a  nice  shape  ;  then  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  gill 
of  port  wine,  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  little  cinnamon,  and 
half  a  pint  of  water ;  let  them  simmer  gently  about  an  hour  or 
until  tender ;  when  done,  put  them  into  a  basin,  reduce  the 
syrup  until  thickish  if  required,  and  pour  over ;  when  cold  they 
are  ready  to  serve. 

A  little  prepared  cochineal  mixed  with  the  syrup  very  much 
improves  their  appearance.  A  dish  composed  half  of  these  and 
half  of  the  white  has  a  very  pretty  appearance.  By  placing  a 
layer  of  marmalade  among  them,  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish, 
you  may  dish  them  in  crown,  or  any  shape  you  like. 

807.  Compote  of  Peaches. — Put  half  a  pound  of  lump  sugar 
(broken  into  small  pieces)  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water,  which  set  upon  the  fire  to  boil  until  forming  a 
thickish  syrup ;  you  have  previously  cut  four  ripe  peaches  in 
halves,  lay  them  carefully  in  the  boiling  syrup  to  simmer  a 
couple  of  minutes,  then  carefully  remove  them  with  a  colander- 
spoon  on  to  a  hair-sieve  to  drain,  when  remove  the  skins,  and 
dress  the  peaches  neatly  upon  your  dessert-dish ;   reduce  the 
syrup  until  of  a  good  consistency,  and  when  cold  pour  it  over, 
and  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

808.  Compote  of  Apples. — Procure  six  nice  ripe  apples,  but 


308  DESSERT. 


not  too  large,  which  peel,  cut  in  halves,  and  cut  out  the  cores, 
rub  each  piece  over  with  a  little  lemon,  and  put  them  into  boil- 
ing syrup  made  as  last  directed,  but  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
and  the  rind  cut  into  small  fillets  added ;  let  the  apple  stew 
until  tender,  but  not  broken,  when  drain  them  upon  a  sieve, 
reduce  the  syrup ;  and  when  both  are  cold,  dress  the  apple 
neatly  upon  your  dish,  and  pour  the  syrup  over.  A  little  green 
angelique,  cut  in  various  shapes,  will  make  a  pretty  ornament 
on  any  white  compote. 

809.  Compote  of  small  Apples,  served  whole. — Select  nine 
small  golden  pippins,  each  as  nearly  as  possible  of  an  equal 
size,  and  with  a  long  round  vegetable  cutter,  of  the  size  of  a  six- 
penny piece,  cut  out  the  cores,  then  peel  them  very  thin  and 
smooth,  rub  their  surface  with  lemon  juice,  and  throw  them  into 
a  basin  of  spring  water ;    have  ready  boiling  half  a  pint  of 
syrup,  made  as  before  directed,  to  which  add  the  rind  of  a  lemon 
(cut  into  thin  strips),  and  the  juice,  lay  in  the  apples,  which  let 
simmer  very  gently  until  quite  tender,  when  drain  them  upon  a 
hair-sieve,  and  reduce  the  syrup  until  thickish ;    when  quite 
cold,  dress  the  apples  upon  your  dish,  five  at  the  bottom,  three 
upon  them,  and  one  upon  the  top ;  when  ready  to  serve,  pour 
the  syrup  over. 

810.  Compote  of  Green  Apricots. — Have  a  pottle  of  green 
apricots,  from  which  pick  off  all  the  stalks,  and  throw  them  into 
a  stewpan  containing  a  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  let  them  boil 
very  fast  for  ten  minutes,  and  drain  them  upon  a  sieve :  have 
ready  half  a  pint  of  syrup  made  as  before  directed,  in  which 
boil  them  until  tender,  but  not  to  break,  and  thicken  the  syrup, 
pour  the  whole  into  a  basin  until  quite  cold ;  should  the  syrup 
then  be  too  thin,  strain  it  off  into  the  stewpan  to  reduce  to  a 
proper  consistency,  pouring  it  again  over  the  apricots  when 
quite  cold.     Dish  tastefully. 

811.  Compote    of     Greengages. — Procure     twelve    green- 
gages, not  quite  ripe,  each  of  which  cut  into  halves ;  have  ready 
boiling  half  a  pint  of  syrup,  as  before  directed,  into  which  put 
half  the  fruit,  let  it  simmer  a  couple  of  minutes,  then  remove 
them  with  a  colander-spoon,  draining  them  upon  a  sieve ;  then 


DESSERT.  309 


put  in  the  remainder,  with  which  proceed  in  the  same  manner ; 
remove  the  skins,  put  the  fruit  into  a  basin,  reduce  the  syrup 
until  thickish,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the  fruit,  which  is 
then  ready  to  serve. 

Any  description  of  plums  may  be  dressed  in  precisely  the 
same  method. 


812.  Compote  of  Apricots. — Procure  six  very  fine  ripe  apri- 
cots, which  divide  into  halves ;  have  ready  half  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing syrup  reduced  quite  thick,  in  which  let  them  simmer  about 
a  minute,  when  pour  the  whole  into  a  basin  until  cold ;  should 
the  fruit  not  be  quite  ripe,  they  would  require  longer  time  to 
simmer.     I  frequently  break  the  stones  and  blanch  the  kernels 
to  add  to  the  compote  ;  they  are  a  great  improvement,  also,  to 
cherries  and  plums. 

813.  Compote  of  Cherries. — Take  a  pound  of  fine  cherries, 
not  too  ripe,  and  cut  away  half  the  stalks  with  a  pair  of  scissors ; 
have  half  a  pint  of  syrup,  which  boil  until  very  thick,  when  add 
half  of  the  cherries,  and  boil  them  two  or  three  minutes,  take 
them  out  with  a  colander-spoon,  drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  and 
proceed  the  same  with  the  remaining  half ;  reduce  the  syrup 
until  very  thick,  dress  the  cherries  pyramidically  upon  your  dish, 
stalks  uppermost,  and  when  the  syrup  is  cold,  pour  it  over,  and 
serve. 

814.  Compote  of  Oranges. — Make  a  pint  of  syrup  as  before; 
have  six  fine  oranges,  which  skin  carefully,  scraping  off  as  much 
of  the  pith  as  possible ;  divide  each  orange  into  eight  entire  pieces, 
without  breaking  the  delicate  skin  with  which  they  are  divided ; 
when  the  syrup  is  very  thick,  put  in  the  pieces  of  oranges,  which 
simmer  gently  for  five  minutes,  when  take  them  out  with  a 
colander-spoon,  and  drain  them  upon  a  sieve ;  reduce  the  syrup 
very  quickly  until  thickish,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the 
oranges,  which  will  be  then  ready  to  serve.     Half  the  rind  of 
the  oranges,  free  from  pith,  cut  intoT  small  fillets,  are  a  great 
improvement  boiled  in  the  syrup. 

815.  Compote  of  French  Plums. — Put  half  a  pound   of 


310  DESSERT. 


French  plums  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  gill  of  water,  the  same  of 
wine,  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  cut  thin,  two  cloves,  and  a  good 
spoonful  of  sugar,  let  them  simmer  about  twenty  minutes,  and 
when  cold  take  out  the  lemon  and  cloves,  and  they  are  ready 
to  serve. 


COMPOTES  OF  FRUIT  SIMPLIFIED 


As  I  usually  make  them  when  alone,  or,  if  not,  for  a  very  ceremo- 
nious dinner-party.  The  whole  of  the  following  must  be  done  over  a 
very  slow  fire. 

816.  Pears. — Cut  six  ripe  middling-sized  pears  in  halves, 
peel  neatly,  cut  out  the  cores,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
the  thin  rind  cut  into  strips,  and  a  very  little  drop  of  water,  set 
them  upon  the  fire,  stewing  them  until  tender ;  they  will  form 
their  own  syrup ;  put  them  in  a  basin  until  cold,  when  they  are 
ready  to  serve. 

817.  Pippins. — Peel  and  cut  four  apples  into  quarters,  take 
out  the  cores,  and  stew  them  as  directed  for  pears,  but  using 
the  rind  of  an  orange  instead  of  the  rind  of  a  lemon. 


818.  Oranges. — Prepare  four  oranges  as  directed  (No.  814), 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  the  juice  of  another  orange ;  set  them  upon 
the  fire,  and  when  the  syrup  becomes  sufficiently  thick  to 
adhere  to  the  pieces  of  orange,  they  are  done ;  when  cold,  dress 
them  in  a  circle  upon  your  dish,  with  strips  of  angelica  between 
each. 


819.  Apricots. — Cut  eight  unripe  apricots  into  quarters, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  four  ounces  of  sugar,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  a  drop  of  sherry,  set  them  upon  the  fire,  shak- 
ing the  stewpan  round  occasionally,  until  the  apricots  are  tender, 
but  not  broken ;  a  very  few  minutes  would  be  sufficient  to  stew 
them,  and  when  cold,  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

For  Peaches,  proceed  exactly  the  same ;  but  if  too  ripe,  they 
must  be  done  as  directed  for  compote  of  peaches. 


DESSERT.  311 


820.  Greengages  and  other  Plums. — Put  twelve  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
and  a  little  drop  of  water,  set  them  over  the  fire,  shaking  the 
stewpan  round  occasionally  until  the  fruit  is  tender,  but  not 
mashed ;  when  cold,  dress  them  in  pyramid,  and  pour  the  syrup 
over. 

821.  Cherries. — Cut  the  stalks  of  a  pound  of  cherries  rather 
short,  and  put  the  fruit  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  place  them  over  the 
fire  (occasionally  shaking  the  pan  round),  letting  them  simmer 
about  two  minutes,  when  take  them  out  with  a  colander-spoon, 
and  put  them  into  a  basin  until  cold,  reduce  the  syrup,  to  which 
add  sufficient  isinglass  to  set  it  as  a  jelly,  and  pour  it  upon  a 
large  plate  until  set,  when  dress  the  cherries  pyramidically,  just 
dip  the  bottom  of  the  plate  containing  the  syrup  into  warm 
water,  and  turn  it  as  a  jelly  over  the  cherries. 

822.  Green  Gooseberries. — Put  a  pint  of  green  gooseberries 
into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  little  sherry, 
place  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  as  the  quicker  they  cook  the  better 
color  they  will  keep ;  when  tender  but  not  broken,  pour  them 
into  a  basin,  and  when  cold  they  are  ready  to  serve. 


823.  Red  Rhubarb. — The  small  forced  rhubarb  (Mitchell's 
Royal  Albert)  is  by  far  the  best.     Cut  about  half  a  pound  of  it 
into  pieces  half  an  inch  in  length,  which  put  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  wine- 
glassful  of  water ;  set  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  occasionally  shak- 
ing the  stewpan  round,  and  when  quite  tender  pour  it  into  a 
basin  until  cold ;  when  it  is  ready  to  serve,  should  the  syrup 
be  too  thin,  add  sufficient  isinglass  to  set  it,  and  when  cold 
dress  it  pyramidically  upon  your  dish. 

824.  Currants  and  Raspberries. — Pick  the  stalks  from  a  pint 
of  currants,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  rasp- 
berries and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar ;  set  them 
upon  the  fire,  shaking  the  stewpan  round  occasionally  until 


312  DESSERT. 


boiling,  when  pour  them  into  a  basin  to  cool.  Should  the 
syrup  be  too  thin,  which  would  be  the  case  if  the  fruit  is  too 
ripe,  drain  the  fruit  from  it,  reduce  it  by  boiling,  and  when 
cold,  pour  it  again  over  the  fruit,  which  will  then  be  ready  to 
serve. 


825.  Royal  Iceing  for  Calces. — Have  ready  a  pound  of  the 
best  white  sugar,  which  pound  well  and  sift  through  a  silk 
sieve,  put  it  into  a  basin  with  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  beat 
well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  keep  beating  well  until  it  becomes  very  light  and  hangs 
in  flakes  from  the  spoon  (if  it  should  be  rather  too  stiff  in  mix- 
ing, add  a  little  more  white  of  egg,  if,  on  the  contrary,  too 
soft,  a  little  more  sugar),  it  is  then  ready  for  use  where  re- 
quired. 

826.  Chocolate  Iceing  for  Cakes  is  made  similar  to  the  last, 
but  when  finished  have  ready  a  piece  of  the  common  chocolate, 
which  melt  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  ;  when 
quite  melted  stir  some  of  it  in  with  the  iceing  until  you  have 
obtained  the  color  required,  moistening  the  iceing  with  a  little 
more  white  of  egg,  and  use  where  directed. 


827.  Sugar  in  Grains  is  made  by  pounding  a  quantity  of 
sugar  in  a  mortar,  and  sifting  off  all  the  fine  through  a  hair- 
sieve,  then  again  what  remains  in  the  sieve  put  into  a  rather 
coarse  wire  sieve,  and  that  which  passes  through  is  what  is 
meant  by  the  above  term. 


828.  How  to  give  color  to  Sugar. — Prepare  about  half  a 
pound  of  the  sugar  as  in  the  last,  which  put  upon  a  baking- 
sheet;  have  a  spoonful  of  the  essence  of  spinach,  which 
stir  in  with  the  sugar  until  every  grain  is  stained,  then  put  them 
in  a  warmish  place  to  dry,  but  not  too  hot :  to  color  them  red, 
use  a  little  prepared  cochineal  or  liquid  carmine,  instead  of  the 
spinach,  and  proceed  exactly  the  same :  sugar  may  be  made  of 
other  colors  by  the  use  of  indigo,  rouge,  saffron,  &c. ;  but  not 
being  partial  to  such  a  variety  of  coloring,  I  have  merely  given 


DESSERT.  313 


the  red  and  the  green,  which,  with  the  white,  I  consider  to  be 
sufficient  for  any  of  the  purposes  for  which  they  are  used. 

829.  Sugar  of  Vanilla. — Chop  a  stick  of  well-frosted  va- 
nilla very  small,  and  put  it  into  a  mortar,  with  half  a  pound  of 
lump  sugar,  pound  the  whole  well  together  in  a  mortar,  sift 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  by  in  a  bottle  or  jar,  corking  it 
up  tight,  and  using  where  required. 

830.  Sugar  of  Lemon. — Rub  the  rind  of  some  fresh  lemons 
upon  a  large  piece  of  sugar,  and  as  it  discolors  the  part  upon 
which  it  is  rubbed  scrape  it  off  with  a  knife ;  when  you  have 
obtained  a  sufficient  quantity,  dry  a  little  in  the  screen,  and 
bottle  for  use  where  required.     Orange  sugar  may  be  made  in 
the  same  manner,  substituting  very  red  oranges  for  the  lemons. 

831.  How  to  make  clear  Sugar. — Break  three  pounds  of 
fine  white  sugar,  the  hardest  and  closest  grained  is  the  best,  put 
it  into  a  sugar-pan,  with  three  pints  of  clear  spring  water,  set 
over  a  sharp  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  boil  place  it  at  the 
corner  to  simmer,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
skim  well  and  reduce  to  two  thirds,  it  is  then  ready  to  use  for 
jellies. 

If  not  able  to  obtain  the  best  quality  of  sugar,  it  would  be 
necessary  to  use  white  of  eggs  as  an  assistance  in  the  clarifica- 
tion, by  putting  the  white  of  one  egg  in  a  basin  and  whipping 
it  well  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  add  half  of  it  to  the  sugar, 
whipping  it  well  in,  let  simmer,  adding  the  remainder  by  de- 
grees whilst  simmering,  and  passing  it  through  a  fine  cloth  into 
a  basin.  The  boiling  of  sugar  is  divided  into  seven  different 
degrees,  which  may  be  ascertained  by  the  following  direc- 
tions : — 

The  first  degree  is  known  by  dipping  a  copper  skimmer  into 
it  whilst  boiling,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times,  if  the  sugar 
falls  from  it  in  sheets  it  has  attained  the  first  degree. 

The  second  is  known  by  boiling  your  sugar  rather  longer, 
dipping  your  finger  and  thumb  into  cold  water,  then  your  finger 
into  the  boiling  sugar,  putting  your  finger  and  thumb  together, 
and  again  opening  them,  it  will  form  a  kind  of  thread ;  if  it  is 
too  weak  boil  a  little  longer,  this  is  the  most  useful  degree  for 
fruit  or  water  ices. 

14 


314  DESSERT. 


The  third  degree  is  attained  by  boiling  it  a  little  longer,  and 
trying  it  in  the  same  manner,  upon  the  thread  baking,  should 
it  form  a  kind  of  pearl,  it  has  attained  the  above  degree ;  the 
sugar  in  boiling  would  also  be  covered  with  a  quantity  of  small 
bubbles  resembling  pearls. 

The  fourth  degree  is  attained  by  boiling  it  still  longer,  dip  a 
skimmer  into  it,  turn,  take  out  and  blow  it  hard,  when  the  sugar 
will  form  little  bladders  and  float  in  the  air,  this  degree  is  called 
the  souffle. 

For  the  fifth  degree  boil  still  longer,  trying  it  in  the  same 
manner,  but  blowing  harder,  the  bladders  will  be  larger  and 
adhere  together,  forming  feathers ;  this  degree  is  called  la  plume, 
or  the  feather. 

The  sixth  is  called  le  petit  casee,  and  is  obtained  by  boiling 
the  sugar  a  little  longer :  to  know  this  degree  have  a  pint  of 
cold  water  in  a  basin,  into  which  you  have  put  a  piece  of  ice, 
dip  your  finger  into  it,  then  into  the  boiling  sugar,  and  then 
into  the  water  again,  take  the  piece  which  adheres  to  the  finger 
and  bite,  if  rather  crisp,  but  sticking  to  the  teeth,  it  has  attained 
that  degree. 

The  seventh  and  last  requires  great  attention,  to  attain  it 
boil  rather  longer,  dip  your  finger  in  as  before,  if  it  cracks  and 
does  not  at  all  adhere  to  the  teeth  in  biting  it  is  done,  take 
from  the  fire,  and  it  is  ready  for  use  for  making  any  kind  of 
sugar  ornament. 

When  intended  for  such  purposes,  however,  add  a  little  tar- 
taric  acid  when  it  arrives  to  the  degree  la  plume  and  pour  it 
into  a  smaller  sugar-pan,  allowing  it  to  reach  the  rims,  it  will 
be  then  unable  to  burn  round  the  sides  as  if  in  a  larger  pan ; 
if  such  a  thing  should,  however,  happen  in  a  larger  pan,  wipe 
the  interior  of  the  pan  round  with  a  sponge  previously  dipped 
in  cold  water,  or  it  would  discolor  the  sugar. 

Ornaments  of  spun  sugar  I  have  a  very  great  dislike  to  for 
a  dinner ;  but,  if  required,  the  sugar  must  be  boiled  to  the  last 
degree.  Should  the  sugar  grain  it  may  be  brought  back  by 
adding  more  water,  and  when  dissolved,  boiling  over  again ;  in 
spinning  sugar  you  must  keep  the  bulk  of  it  in  a  warm  tempe- 
rature, having  a  little  in  a  smaller  pan  for  use,  which  keep  in  a 
melted  state  by  placing  it  in  a  bain-marie  of  hot  water,  or  in  a 
Jiot  closet. 


DESSERT.  315 


832.  Silk  Thread,  or  Spun  Sugar. — Having  boiled  your 
sugar  to  the  seventh  degree,  as  in  the  last,  oil  the  handle  of  a 
wooden  spoon,  tie  two  forks  together,  the  prongs  turned  out- 
wards, dip  them  lightly  into  the  sugar,  take  out  and  shake  them 
to  and  fro,  the  sugar  running  from  them  over  the  spoon  form- 
ing fine  silken  threads,  proceeding  thus  until  you  have  as  much 
as  you  require,  take  it  from  the  spoon  and  form  it  with  your 
hands  into  whatever  may  be  directed  for  the  garnishing  of  any 
dish,  not,  however,  too  thick,  or  it  would  look  heavy.     An  ex- 
perienced hand  would  prefer  doing  it  from  the  lip  of  the  sugar- 
pan. 

Other  kinds  of  ornaments  from  sugar  are  made  in  a  similar 
manner  by  oiling  a  mould  or  shape  and  running  fillets  of  the 
sugar  from  the  lip  of  the  pan  over  it  as  tastefully  as  possible, 
but  as  I  have  not  referred  to  it  in  this  work  I  will  not  enter  into 
its  details.  These  are  more  fit  for  suppers  than  dinners. 

833.  Vanilla  Ice  Cream. — Put  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  in 
a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  beat  well  together  with 
a  wooden  spoon,  in  another  stewpan  have  a  quart  of  milk,  and 
when  boiling  throw  in  two  sticks  of  .vanilla,  draw  it  from  the 
fire,  place  on  the  lid  and  let  remain  until  partly  cold,  pour  it 
over  the  eggs  and  sugar  in  the  other  stewpan,  mix  well,  and 
place  it  over  the  fire  (keeping  it  stirred)  until  it  thickens  and 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  tammy 
into  a  basin,  let  remain  until  cold,  then  have  ready  a  pewter 
freezing-pot  in  an  ice-pail  well  surrounded  with  ice  and  salt  ;* 
put  the  above  preparation  into  it,  place  on  the  lid,  which  must 
fit  rather  tightly,  and  commence  twisting  the  pot  round  sharply, 
keeping  it  turned  for  about  ten  minutes,  when  take  off  the  lid, 
and  with  your  spatula  clear  the  sides  of  the  interior  of  the  pot, 
place  the  lid  on  again,  turn  the  pot  ten  minutes  longer,  when 
again  clear  the  sides  and  beat  the  whole  well  together,  until 
smooth,  it  being  then  about  half  frozen,  then  add  four  glasses 
of  noyeau  or  maresquino  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream  well 

*  To  freeze  quickly  any  description  of  ice  the  freezing-pot  must  be  well  set, 
place  it  in  the  centre  of  the  pail,  which  must  be  large  enough  to  give  a  space  of 
four  inches  all  round,  break  up  small  twelve  pounds  of  ice,  which  put  round  at 
the  bottom  six  inches  in  depth,  over  which  put  two  pounds  of  salt,  beat  down  tight 
with  a  rolling-pin,  then  more  ice,  then  salt,  proceeding  thus  until  within  three 
inches  of  the  top  of  your  freezing-pot ;  saltpetre  mixed  with  the  salt  will  facilitate 
it  in  freezing. 


316  DESSERT. 


whipped,  beat  the  whole  well  together,  place  the  lid  upon  the 
top,  keep  twisting  it  round  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  clear  well 
from  the  sides,  beat  again  well  together,  proceeding  thus  until 
the  whole  is  frozen  into  a  stiff  but  smooth  and  mellow  sub- 
stance ;  should  you  require  to  keep  it  some  time  before  serv- 
ing, pour  the  water  which  has  run  from  the  ice  out  of  the  pail, 
and  add  fresh  ice  and  salt;  when  ready  to  serve  work  it  up 
smoothly  with  your  spatula,  fill  the  mould  arid  proceed  as  No. 
778. 


834.  Coffee  Ice  Cream. — Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  but 
omitting  the  noyeau  or  maresquino,  and  making  an  infusion 
with  coffee  as  directed  (No.  40)  instead  of  vanilla. 


835.  Ice  of  Chocolate  is  made  similar  to  the  vanilla  ice  cream, 
but  omitting  the  vanilla  and  liqueur,  in  the  room  of  which 
scrape  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chocolate,  place  it  in  a  stewpan 
over  the  fire  and  keep  stirring  until  melted,  then  have  ready 
boiling  a  quart  of  milk,  which  mix  with  the  chocolate  by  de- 
grees, finish  with  eggs  and  sugar,  and  freeze  as  before. 


836.  Ice  of  Pine-apple. — Procure  a  rather  small  pine-apple, 
take  off  the  rind,  which  reserve,  and  cut  the  apple  into  pieces 
an  inch  in  length  and  about  the  thickness  of  a  quill,  place  them 
in  a  sugar-pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of 
water,  set  it  upon  the  fire  and  reduce  to  a  rather  thickish  syrup, 
have  ready  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  upon  the  fire,  into  which, 
when  boiling,  throw  the  rind  of  the  pine-apple,  cover  it  over 
and  let  infuse  ten  minutes ;  in  another  stewpan  have  the  yolks 
of  twelve  eggs,  to  which  add  the  milk  by  degrees  (previously 
straining  it),  place  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  adhering 
to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  tammy  into 
a  basin,  add  the  syrup  and  pine-apple,  and  freeze  it  as  in  the 
last,  adding  a  pint  and  a  half  of  whipped  cream ;  when  half 
frozen,  use  where  directed. 


837.  Lemon  Ice  Cream. — Take  the  rind  from  six  lemons  as 
thin  as  possible  and  free  from  pith,  squeeze  the  juice  of  the 


DESSERT.  317 


lemons  into  a  sugar-pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half 
a  pint  of  water,  place  it  upon  the  fire  and  reduce  until  rather  a 
thickish  syrup,  have  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  upon  the  fire, 
into  which,  when  boiling,  throw  the  rind  of  the  lemons,  cover 
over  and  let  remain  until  half  cold ;  in  another  stewpan  have 
the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  (to  which  you  have  added  an  ounce 
of  sugar),  with  which  mix  the  milk  by  degrees,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  stir  in  the 
syrup  and  pass  it  through  a  tammy ;  when  cold,  freeze  as  di- 
rected (No.  833),  adding  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  when  half 
frozen. 


838.  Orange  Ice  Cream. — Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last, 
but  using  the  juice  and  rind  of  ten  oranges  instead  of  lemons 
as  there  directed. 


839.  Apricot  Ice  Cream. — Procure  a  dozen  and  a  half  of 
fine  ripe  apricots,  which  cut  in  halves,  take  out  the  stones,  which 
break,  extracting  the  kernels,  which  blanch  in  very  hot  water 
and  skin,  then  put  them  with  the  apricots  into  a  sugar-pan, 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  glassful  of  water,  let 
them  boil  until  almost  forming  a  marmalade,  when  put  them 
by  in  a  basin,  have  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with 
which  mix  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  set  over  the 
fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  thick  enough  to  adhere  to  the  back 
of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  tammy  into  a  basin,  add 
the  syrup  and  apricots,  and,  when  cold,  three  glasses  of  noyeau, 
freeze  as  in  No.  833,  and,  when  half  frozen,  add  a  pint  of  good 
whipped  cream. 

840.  Strawberry  Ice  Cream. — Procure  about  two  pounds  of 
fine  ripe  strawberries,  which  pick  and  rub  through  a  hair-sieve 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  obtaining  all  the  juice  and  pulp  of  the 
strawberries,  with  which  mix  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
and  put  it  by  in  a  basin ;  in  a  stewpan  have  the  yolks  of  twelve 
eggs,  with  which  mix  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  it  becomes  thickish,  adhering  to  the  back  of 
the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  tommy,  and  when  cold  add 
the  juice  from  the  strawberries  and  three  glasses  of  maraschino, 
freeze  it  as  directed  (No.  833),  adding  a  pint  of  whipped  cream 


318  DESSERT. 


when  half  frozen  and  sufficiently  prepared ;  cochineal,  to  give 
it  a  strawberry  color,  if  approved  of. 


841.  Marmalade  of  Apple. — Peel  and  cut  thirty  apples  in 
slices,  taking  out  the  cores,  and,  if  for  preserving,  to  every 
pound  of  fruit  put  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  broken  sugar 
(but,  if  for  immediate  use,  half  a  pound  would  be  quite  suffi- 
cient), place  the  whole  in  a  large  preserving-pan,  with  half  a 
spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  the  rind  of  a  lemon  chopped 
very  fine,  set  the  pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  it  occasionally 
until  boiling,  when  keep  stirring  until  becoming  rather  thick ;  it 
is  then  done :  if  for  immediate  use,  a  smaller  quantity  would 
be  sufficient,  which  put  by  in  a  basin  until  cold ;  but  if  to  keep 
any  time  put  it  in  jars,  which  cover  over  with  paper,  and  tie 
down  until  wanted. 


842.  Marmalade  of  Apricots. — Stone  about  eight  pounds 
of  ripe  fleshy  apricots,  break  the  stones,  and  blanch  and  skin 
the  kernels,  which  with  the  apricots  put  into  a  preserving-pan, 
add  six  pounds  of  sugar  and  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring 
occasionally  until  boiling,  when  keep  stirring  until  becoming 
rather  thick,  take  it  off,  put  it  in  jars,  and  when  cold  tie  paper 
over,  and  put  by  until  ready  for  use. 


843.  Quince  Jam  Puree. — Procure  a  sieve  of  fine  ripe 
quinces,  which  peel  and  cut  in  four,  taking  out  the  cores,  place 
them  in  a  large  preserving-pan  and  cover  with  cold  water ;  set 
upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  and  tender  to  the  touch,  place 
them  in  a  large  sieve  to  drain  one  hour,  pass  them  through  a 
tammy,  then  have  ready  a  corresponding  weight  of  sugar  boiled 
to  the  sixth  degree  (No.  831)  in  the  preserving-pan,  to  which 
add  the  puree  of  quinces,  keep  stirring  over  the  fire  till  forming 
thin  sheets,  drop  a  little  upon  the  cover  of  a  stewpan,  if  it  sets 
quickly  take  it  from  the  fire,  put  it  in  small  jars,  and  let  remain 
a  day  until  quite  cold,  when  tie  them  down,  and  put  by  until 
wanted. 


844.  Apricot  Marmalade  Jam. — Procure  a  quantity  of  very 


DESSERT.  319 


ripe  apricots,  each  of  which  cut  into  four  or  six  pieces,  break  the 
stones  and  blanch  the  kernels,  put  the  apricots  in  a  preserving- 
pan  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  boil  them  until  quite  tender, 
when  pass  them  through  a  sieve ;  to  every  pound  of  fruit  have 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  (in  a  preserving-pan)  boiled 
to  the  sixth  degree  (No.  831),  add  the  apricots  with  their  ker- 
nels, and  keep  stirring  over  the  fire,  until  forming  thin  trans- 
parent sheets,  try  when  done  as  in  the  last,  and  put  away  in  pots. 
The  marmalade  would  be  still  more  transparent  if  you  were  to 
peel  the  apricots  first,  but  then  you  would  lose  some  of  their 
delicious  flavor. 

845.  Marmalade  of  Cherries. — Procure  a  sieve  of  bright 
Kentish  cherries,  pull  out  the  stalks  and  stones,  and  put  the 
fruit  in  a  preserving-pan,  place  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred 
until  reduced  to  two-thirds  ;  have  in  another  preserving-pan,  to 
every  pound  of  fruit,  half  a  pound  of  sugar  boiled  to  the  sixth 
degree  (No.  831),  into  which  pour  the -fruit  when  boiling  hot, 
let  reduce,  keep  stirring  until  you  can  just  see  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  when  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  fill  your  jars  as  before. 

A  plainer  way  is  to  take  off  the  stalks  and  stone  the  fruit, 
place  them  in  a  pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  to  every  pound  of 
fruit  add  nearly  a  pound  of  sugar,  keep  stirring  until  reduced 
as  above,  and  let  it  get  partly  cold  in  the  pan  before  filling  the 
jars. 

846.  Straioberry  Jam. — Pick  twelve  pounds  of  very  red 
ripe  strawberries,  which  put  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  ten 
pounds  of  sugar  (broken  into  smallish  pieces),  place  over  a 
sharp  fire,  keep  continually  stirring,  boiling  it  until  the  surface 
is  covered  with  clearish  bubbles,  try  a  little  upon  a  cover,  if  it 
sets,  fill  the  jars  as  before. 

847.  Raspberry  Jam. — Pick  twelve  pounds  of  raspberries, 
and   pass  them  through  a  fine  sieve  to  extract  the  seeds,  boil 
as  many  pounds  of  sugar  as  you  have  pounds  of  fruit  to  the 
sixth  degree  (No.  831),  when  add  the  pulp  of  the  fruit,  keep 
stirring  over  the  fire,  reducing  it  until  you  can  just  see  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  put  it  into  jars  as 
before. 


320  DESSERT. 


848.  Jelly  of  Apple. — Cut  six  dozen  of  sound  rennet  apples 
in  quarters,  take  out  all  the   pips,  put  them  into  a  sugar-pan, 
just  cover   them  with  cold  water,  and  place  over  the  fire,  let 
boil  until  the  apples  become  quite  pulpy,  when  drain  them 
upon  a  sieve,  catching  the  liquor  in  a  basin,  which  afterwards 
pass  through  a  new  and  very  clean  jelly-bag  ;  to  every  pint  of 
liquor  have  one  pound  of  sugar,  which  boil  to  the  sixth  degree 
as  directed  (831) ;  when,  whilst  hot,  mix  in  the  liquor  from 
the  apple  with   a  very  clean  skimmer ;  to  prevent  it  boiling 
over  keep  it  skimmed,  lift  the  skimmer  occasionally  from  the 
pan,  and  when  the  jelly  falls  from  it  in  thin  sheets,  take  it  up 
and  fill  the  pots  as  before ;  the  smaller  pots  are  the  best  adapted 
for  jellies. 

849.  Jelly  of  Quince. — Proceed  exactly  as  directed  in  the 
last,  but  using  quinces  instead  of  apples. 

850.  Sweetmeat  of  Currant  Jelly. — Put  half  a  sieve  of 
fine  red  currants  in  a  large  stewpan,  with  a  gallon  of  white 
currants  and  a  gallon  of  raspberries,  add  a  quart  of  water, 
place  over  the  fire,  keep  stirring,  to  prevent  them  sticking  to 
the  bottom,  and  let  boil  about  ten  minutes,  pour  them  into  a 
sieve  to  drain,  catching  the  juice  in  a  basin  and  draining  the 
currants  quite  dry,  pass  the  juice  whilst  hot  through  a  clean 
jelly-bag,  have  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pint  of  juice,  and 
proceed  precisely  as  directed  for  apple  jelly.     Should  you  have 
time  to  pick  the  currants  from  the  stalks  previous  to  boiling, 
you  would  lose  that  bitter  flavor,  and  have  less  difficulty  in 
making  your  jelly  clear. 

851.  Currant  Jelly  is  made  precisely  as  in  the  last,  omitting 
the  raspberries,  the  difference  being  in  the  use ;  the  last  being 
adapted  for  the  garnishing  of  pastry,  and  this  to  use  for  sauces, 
or  to  serve  with  hares,  venison,  or  any  other  meat,  where  re- 
quired. 

A  more  simple  method  of  making  currant  jelly  is  to  rub  the 
fruit  through  a  sieve,  and  afterwards  squeeze  it  through  a  fino 
linen  cloth,  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  with,  to  every  pint  of 
juice,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar  ;  place  over  a 


DESSERT.  321 


sharp  fire,  stirring  occasionally  with  a  skimmer,  keeping  it  well 
skimmed ;  it  is  done  when  dropping  in  sheets  as  before  from 
the  skimmer.  For  my  own  part,  I  prefer  this  last  simple 
method,  being  quicker  done,  and  retaining  more  of  the  full 
freshness  of  the  fruit. 

It  is  not  my  intention  to  give  a  description  of  the  various  methods 
of  preserving  fruits,  which  belongs  to  the  confectionery  department ;  that 
1  shall  do  in  the  Letters  from  the  Farm ;  I  have,  however,  given  the 
few  foregoing  receipts,  they  being  required  for  reference  from  various 
parts  of  this  work,  and  being  all  that  are  required  for  the  garnishing 
of  dishes  for  the  second  course;  various  other  fruits  may,  however, 
be  made  into  marmalades  and  jellies  by  following  those  few  simple 
directions. 

SALADS  OF  VARIOUS  FRUITS. 

You  will  perceive,  my  dear  Eloise,  that  there  is  no  end  to  the  varia- 
tion of  dishing  fruits  for  desserts ;  the  following  being  more  simple  than 
any,  and  within  the  reach  of  almost  every  individual. 

852.  Salad  of  Oranges. — Select   four   good   oranges,  the 
thinnest  rind  ones  are  preferable;    cut  them  crosswise  into 
slices  double  the  thickness  of  a  crown-piece,  dress  them  round 
upon  your  dish,  one  piece  resting  half-way  upon  the  other ; 
shake  one  ounce  of  sifted  sugar  over,  pour  over  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  brandy,  and  it  is  ready ;  to  serve  it  out,  put  two 
pieces  upon  the  plate  of  each  guest,  with  a  spoonful  of  the 
syrup.     Slices  of  red  Malta  oranges,  dressed  alternately  with 
the  other,  has  a  pleasing  effect.     Any  kind  of  liquor  may  be 
used,  as  also  might  whiskey,  rum,  or  that  white  cream  or  blue 
devil  commonly  called  g — ;  dear  me,  I  quite  forget  the  name. 

853.  Salad  of  Strawberries. — Pick  the  stalks  from  a  pottle 
of  very  fine  strawberries,  which  put  into  a  basin  with  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon,  two  glasses  of  brandy,  and 
an  ounce  of  sifted  sugar,  toss  them  lightly  over,  and  dress 
them  in  pyramid  upon  your   dish,  pouring  the  syrup  over ; 
these  should  only  be  dressed  a  few  minutes  before  serving ; 
the  brandy  might  be  omitted.     If  handy,  a  glass  of  maraschino, 
substituted  for  brandy,  makes  them  delicious. 


854.  Salad  of  Peaches. — Procure  four  ripe  peaches,  which 
U* 


322  DESSERT. 


peel  and  cut  into  quarters ;  put  them  into  a  basin  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar  and  a  glass  of  sherry,  toss  them  lightly  over, 
dress  upon  your  dish  and  serve.  Apricots,  greengages,  and 
other  plums  are  dressed  in  salads  in  the  same  manner,  leaving 
their  skins  on. 


855.  Salad  of  Currants  and  Raspberries. — Put  an  equal 
quantity  of  each,  making  rather  more  than  a  pint,  into  a  basin, 
with  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar-candy,  and  a  little  powdered 
cinnamon,  toss  them  over  lightly,  and  they  are  ready  to  serve. 


856.  Pine  Apples. — I  have  tried  several  experiments  with 
the  West  Indian  pine-apples,  many  of  which  being  rather  stale 
when  they  arrive  here,  would  make  an  unsightly  appearance 
whole  upon  the  table,  but  made  into  a  compote  or  salad,  they 
are  really  excellent,  having  also  the  advantage  of  being  very 
cheap. 

For  a  compote,  peel  one  rather  thickly,  to  leave  no  black 
spots  upon  it,  make  a  syrup  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  as 
directed  (No.  831),  cut  your  pine-apple  into  round  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  which  put  into  the  syrup, 
boiling  them  ten  minutes ;  take  them  out  with  a  colander- 
spoon,  reduce  the  syrup  until  thickish,  and  pour  it  over  the 
pine-apple  ;  when  cold  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

For  a  salad,  peel  and  cut  a  pine-apple  into  small  square  dice, 
which  put  into  a  basin  with  two  ounces  of  sugar-candy  (pow- 
dered) and  a  glass  of  noyeau,  toss  all  well  together  and  serve. 

For  marmalade,  pair  and  cut  into  small  pieces  several  small 
pine-apples,  and  to  every  quart  thus  cut  up  add  one  pound  of 
fine  sugar,  boil  for  half  an  hour,  and  put  in  a  pot. 


857.  Cake  of  Savoy  in  mould. — Have  ready  a  large  high 
mould  lightly  buttered  (with  a  soft  brush,  and  clarified  butter), 
turn  the  mould  up  to  drain,  and  when  the  butter  is  quite  set 
throw  some  finely  sifted  sugar  into  it ;  move  the  mould  round 
until  the  sugar  has  adhered  to  every  part,  after  which  turn  out 
the  superfluous  sugar,  tie  a  band  of  buttered  paper  round  at 
the  top,  and  place  it  in  a  cool  place  until  the  mixture  is 
ready.  Place  the  yolks  of  fourteen  eggs  in  a  basin,  with  one 


DESSERT.  823 


pound  of  sugar  (upon  which  you  have  rubbed  the  rind  of  two 
lemons  previous  to  pounding),  beat  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon  until  nearly  white,  then  whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
very  stiff,  add  them  to  the  yolks  and  sugar,  with  six  ounces 
of  flour  and  six  ounces  of  potato-flour,  mix  the  whole  lightly 
but  well  together,  and  fill  the  mould  rather  more  than  three 
parts  full,  place  it  in  a  very  moderate  oven  one  hour,  keeping 
the  oven-door  shut ;  then  try  when  done  as  directed  in  the 
last,  if  done  take  off  the  paper  and  turn  it  out  upon  a  sieve 
until  quite  cold.  The  above  mixture  being  more  delicate  than 
the  last,  would  not  do  so  well  for  removes,  but  may  be  used 
for  that  purpose  by  being  made  three  or  four  days  before  it  is 
required. 

858.  Savoy  Cakes,  or  Ladies'  Fingers. — Have  the  weight  of 
nine  eggs  of  sugar  in  a  bowl,  which  put  into  a  bain-marie  of 
hot  water,  weigh  the  same  weight  of  flour,  which  sift  through  a 
wire  sieve  upon  paper,  break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  proceed 
as  directed  for  sponge-cake ;  then  with  a  paper  funnel  or  bag, 
with  a  thin  pipe  made  for  that  purpose,  lay  it  out  upon  papers 
into  biscuits  three  inches  in  length  and  the  thickness  of  your 
little  finger,  sift  sugar  over,  shaking  off  all  that  does  not  adhere 
to  them ;  place  them  upon  baking-sheets,  and  bake  in  rather  a 
warm  oven  of  a  brownish-yellow  color,  when  done  and  cold, 
detach  them  from  the  paper  by  wetting  it  at  the  back,  place  them 
a  short  time  to  dry,  and  they  are  ready  for  use  for  charlotte 
russe,  or  wherever  directed. 


859.  Sponge  Cake. — Put  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  in  a 
good-sized  bowl,  which  stand  in  a  bain-marie  of  hot  water ;  sift 
one  pound  of  flour  upon  a  sheet  of  paper,  then  break  twelve 
eggs  into  the  bowl  with  the  sugar,  which  whisk  rather  quickly 
until  they  become  a  little  warm  and  rather  thickish,  then  take 
the  bowl  from  the  bain-marie,  and  continue  whisking  until  nearly 
or  quite  cold ;  then  add  the  chopped  rind  of  a  lemon  and  the 
flour,  which  mix  lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  have  ready  your 
mould  or  baking-dish  lightly  buttered,  into  which  you  have  put 
a  little  flour,  knocking  out  all  that  does  not  adhere  to  the  butter, 
pour  in  the  mixture  and  place  it  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven, 
it  may  require  longer  or  not  so  long,  but  that  will  depend  en- 


324  DESSERT. 


tirely  upon  the  compass  you  have  it  in ;  if  done  it  will  feel  firm 
to  the  touch,  but  the  surest  method  is  to  run  a  thin  wooden 
skewer  into  the  centre,  if  it  comes  out  clean  the  cake  is  done, 
but  if  not  some  of  the  mixture  would  adhere  to  it ;  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  disturb  it  until  quite  set,  or  it  would  sink  in  the 
centre,  and  never  properly  bake ;  when  done  turn  it  out  upon  a 
sieve  to  cool.  Serve  where  indicated. 


860.  Small  Sponge  Calces. — Put  six  whole  eggs  into  an 
earthen  pan  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  upon  which  you  have 
previously  rubbed  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  stand  the  pan  in  very 
hot  water,  keeping   its   contents  well   mixed   until  becoming 
rather  warm,  when  take  it  from  the  water,  continuing  to  whisk 
until  quite  cold  and  thickish,  when  stir  in  gently  half  a  pound 
of  sifted  flour ;  have  ready  buttered,  and  dusted  with  sugar,  about 
a  dozen  small  sponge-cake  tins,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mix- 
ture into  each,  shake  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

861.  Pound  Cakes. — Put   one   pound  of  butter   into   an 
earthen  pan  with  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  beat  them  well  together  with  the  hand  until  forming 
a  smooth  lightish  cream,  when  add  by  degrees  eight  eggs,  beat- 
ing it  ten  minutes  after,  when  add  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
sifted  flour,  stir  it  in  lightly,  and  put  the  mixture  into  hoops 
to  bake. 


862.  Queen's  Cakes. — Weigh  of  butter  the  weight  of  six 
eggs,  and  nine  of  powdered  sugar,  which  put  together  in  an 
earthen  pan,  beat  well  with  the  hand  until  forming  a  smooth 
cream,  when  add  by  degrees  nine  eggs,  and  when  well  beat,  stir 
in  the  weight  of  nine  eggs  of  flour  and  half  a  pound  of  cur- 
rants ;  have  ready  buttered  about  a  dozen  little  round  cake 
pans,  fill  each  one  rather  better  than  three  parts  full  with  the 
mixture,  shake  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 
If  no  cake  pans,  drop  the  mixture  upon  paper  in  pieces  half 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  apart,  shake  sugar 
ever,  bake  in  a  warm  oven,  and,  when  done,  remove  them  from 
the  papers. 


DESSERT. 


325 


3  pound  of  ground  almonds, 
id  sugar,  mixing  the  whole 


863.  Almond  Cakes. — Procure  one 
to  which  add  two  pounds  of  powdered  sugar,  mixing 
with  the  whites  of  nine  eggs,  beating  the  mixture  well  with  a 
wooden  spoon  for  about  ten  minutes,  lay  them  out  upon  wafer 
paper  of  an  oval  shape  with  a  tablespoon,  put  three  or  four 
strips  of  almonds  upon  the  top  of  each,  and  bake  them  in  a 
slow  oven ;  when  done,  break  away  all  the  wafer  paper  but 
that  which  adheres  to  the  bottom  of  the  paper,  and,  when  cold, 
they  are  ready  for  use. 


864.  Cocoa-Nut  Biscuits. — Scrape  four  cocoa  nuts,  to  which 
add  the  same  weight  of  powdered  sugar,  mix  with  whites  of 
eggs,  beating  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  forming  a  softish  but 
thick  paste  ;    lay  the  mixture  out  upon  wafer-paper  in  small 
drops,  baking  them  as  directed  in  the  last. 

865.  Moss  Biscuits. — Weigh  half  a  pound  of  flour,  to  which 
add  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  and  five  ounces  of  sugar,  rub 
them  well  together  and  mix  with  one  whole  and  one  white  of 
egg  and  a  teaspoonful  of  milk ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  ground 
almonds,  which  rub  well  into  the  paste ;  afterwards  rub  the 
whole  through  a  gauze  wire  sieve,  taking  it  off  in  small  pieces, 
which  lay  upon  a  lightly-buttered  baking-sheet,  and  bake  them 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


866.  Rout  Cakes. — Procure  one  pound  of  ground  almonds, 
to  which  add  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  mixing  them  to- 
gether with  yolks  of  eggs  until  forming  a  stiffish  but  flexible 
paste,  when  form  it  into  small  biscuits  of  the  shapes  of  coronets, 
bunches  of  filberts,  birds'  nests,  or  any  other  shapes  your  fancy 
may  dictate ;  let  them  remain  five  or  six  hours,  or  all  night, 
upon  the  baking-sheet,  and  bake  them  in  a  warm  oven. 


867.  Rout  Biscuits. — Boil  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  lump 
sugar,  upon  which  you  have  rubbed  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  in 
half  a  pint  of  milk  ;  when  cold,  rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  with 
two  pounds  of  flour,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  pour  in  the 
milk  with  as  much  carbonate  of  soda  as  would  he  upon  a  six- 


326  DESSERT. 


pe 
la 


nce,  and  a  couple  of  eggs,  mix  the  whole  into  a  smooth  paste, 
ay  it  out  upon  your  baking-sheet  in  whatever  flat  shapes  you 
please,  and  bake  them  in  a  very  warm  oven. 

The  proper  way  to  shape  these  biscuits  is  by  wooden  blocks 
having  leaves,  pine-apples,  and  other  devices  carved  upon  them. 


868.  Cream  Biscuits. — Rub  one  pound  of  fresh  butter  into 
one  pound  of  flour,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  into  which  put 
half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  upon  which  the  rind  of  a  lemon 
was  rubbed  previously  to  pounding,  and  three  whole  eggs,  mix 
the  eggs  well  with  the  sugar,  and  then  mix  all  together,  form- 
ing a  flexible  paste ;  cut  it  into  round  pieces  each  nearly  as  large 
as  a  walnut,  stamp  them  flat  with  a  butter-stamp  of  the  size  of 
a  crown-piece,  and  bake  them  in  a  slack  oven. 


869.  Shrewsbury  Cakes. — Weigh  one  pound  of  flour,  into 
which  rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  six  ounces  of  flour,  make 
a  hole  in  the  centre,  into  which  break  a  couple  of  eggs,  and 
add  sufficient  milk  to  form  a  flexible  paste,  which  roll  out  to 
the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  and  cut  it  into  small  cakes  with 
a  round  cutter;  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Ginger  Cakes  are  made  precisely  as  the  above,  but  adding 
half  an  ounce  of  ground  ginger  before  mixing ;  and  Cinnamon 
Cakes,  by  rubbing  in  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  ground  cinnamon 
after  the  paste  is  mixed. 

870.  Macaroons. — Blanch  and  skin  half  a  pound  of  sweet 
almonds,  dry  them  well  in  your  screen,  then  put  them  into  a 
mortar  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lump  sugar,  pound  well 
together,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  wire  sieve ;  put  it  again 
into  a  mortar,  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  mix  well  together 
with  the  pestle,  then  add  the  white  of  another  egg,  proceeding 
thus  until  you  have  used  the  whites  of  about  ei^ht  eggs  and 
made  a  softish  paste,  when  lay  them  out  at  equal  distances,  apart 
upon  wafer-paper,  in  pieces  nearly  the  size  of  walnuts,  place 
some  strips  of  almonds  upon  the  top,  sift  sugar  over,  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven  of  a  yellowish  brown  color ;  they  are  done  when 
set  quite  firm  through. 


THE    DINNER-TABLE. 


327 


871.  Ratafias. — Ratafias  are  made  similar  to  the  above,  but 
deducting  two  ounces  of  sweet,  and  adding  two  ounces  of  bitter 
almonds ;  they  are  laid  out  in  much  smaller  cakes  upon  com- 
mon paper,  and  baked  in  a  much  warmer  oven ;  when  cold, 
they  may  be  taken  off  the  paper  with  the  greatest  ease. 

These  cakes  are  very  serviceable  in  making  a  great  many 
second-course  dishes. 


872.  Italian  Drops. — Have  a  mixture  similar  to  the  above, 
merely  a  liqueur  glassful  of  best  noyeau,  lay  it  in  round  drops 
upon  paper,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  without  sifting  any  sugar 
over;  when  taken  from  the  papers,  dry  them  a  little  in  the 
screen,  and  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

The  bottoms  may  be  spread  over  with  apricot  marmalade, 
and  two  stuck  together  just  previous  to  being  served,  if  ap- 
proved of. 


873.  St.  James's  Cake. — Put  one  pound  of  very  fresh  but- 
ter in  a  good-sized  kitchen  basin,  and  with  the  right  hand 
work  it  up  well  till  it  forms  quite  a  white  cream ;  then  add  one 
pound  powdered  sugar,  mix  well,  add  ten  eggs  by  degrees ; 
put  to  dry  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  which  mix  as  lightly 
as  possible  with  it ;  blanch  and  cut  in  slices  two  ounces  of  pis- 
tachios, two  ditto  of  green  preserved  angelica,  add  two  liqueur 
glasses  of  noyeau,  two  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla ;  whip  a  gill 
and  a  half  of  cream  till  very  thick,  mix  lightly  with  a  wooden 
spoon. 


LETTER  No.  XVII. 


THE    DINNER-TABLE. 

MY  DEAR  ELOISE, — I  thank  you  for  your  kind  compliment,  but  I  have 
always  been  of  opinion  that  the  arrangements  and  serving  of  a  dinner- 
table,  have  as  much  to  do  with  the  happiness  and  pleasure  of  a  party 
as  the  viands  which  are  placed  upon  it ;  this  I  had  a  practical  proof  of 
last  week.  Mr.  B.  and  myself  were  invited  to  dine  with  Mr.  D.,  a  city 
friend,  at  Balham  Hill ;  I  had  before  met  Mrs.  D.  at  an  evening  party, 
at  hi-<  partner's,  at  Hackney,  and  knew  little  of  her. 

Dinner  was  served  pretty  punctually,  only  half  an  hour  after  time. 
On  my  entrance  in  the  room,  my  first  glance  at  the  table  showed  me 


328  THE   DINNER-TABLE. 


that  there  was  a  want  of  savoir-faire  in  its  management :  the  plate, 
very  abundant  and  splendid,  was  of  so  yellow  a  cast  that  it  looked  as 
if  it  were  plated,  and  the  cut  glass  was  exceedingly  dim.  My  first  sur- 
prise was  that  there  were  no  napkins,  the  next  the  soup  plates  were 
quite  cold,  which  I  have  found  often  the  case  in  other  houses ;  after 
being  served  with  fish,  and  waiting  until  it  was  cold  for  the  sauce  to  eat 
with  it,  I  was  rather  sceptical  how  the  rest  of  the  dinner  would  pro- 
gress. After  the  first,  the  second  course  made  its  appearance,  which 
was  heavy  and  too  abundant ;  the  plain  things  were  well  done,  but 
there  was  only  one  servant  in  the  room  for  the  whole  party  of  fourteen, 
and  from  the  strict  formality  of  the  table,  it  would  have  been  a  sacri- 
lege to  have  handed  your  plate  for  any  vegetables,  or  anything  else 
you  might  require.  There  were  four  saltcellars,  certainly  very  massive 
silver  ones,  at  each  corner  of  the  table,  and  a  beautiful  cruet-frame  in 
the  centre ;  the  hot  dishes  of  this  course,  like  the  previous  one,  became 
cold  and  tasteless  before  being  eaten,  and  during  the  time  the  servant 
was  serving  the  champagne,  all  the  plates  were  empty ;  in  fact  it  was 
a  good  dinner  spoilt.  The  wine  drank  with  less  gout  than  usual,  and 
the  long  pauses  between  the  courses  made  the  formality  appear  still 
greater  than  it  really  was,  and  made  you  wish  for  the  time  to  arrive  for 
the  cloth  to  be  removed,  which  was  not  done,  only  the  slips,  a  most 
awkward  undertaking  for  one  servant,  and  should  never  be  practised 
unless  having  at  least  two. 

About  half  an  hour  after  the  cloth  was  removed,  and  just  as  the  con- 
versation was  being  thawed  from  the  freezing  it  received  at  the  dinner- 
table,  Mrs.  D.  and  the  ladies  withdrew,  and  for  an  hour  and  a  half  we 
had  to  bear  the  insipid  conversation  of  the  drawing-room,  the  hissing 
urn  on  the  tea-table  bearing  a  prominent  part.  Several  messages  were 
sent  from  tune  to  time  to  the  dining-room  that  coifee  was  ready ;  and 
when  at  last  the  gentlemen  came,  two  had  had  quite  wine  enough, 
which  caused  them  to  receive  sundry  angry  looks  from  their  wives  who 
were  present,  and  who  were  glad  to  get  them  into  their  carriages 
which  were  waiting,  and  right  glad  indeed  was  I  when  ours  was  an- 
nounced. 

This  all  happened,  my  dear  Eloise,  not  from  meanness ;  for  if  money 
could  have  purchased  it  nothing  would  have  been  wanting,  but  solely 
from  want  of  management ;  and  every  one  should  think  before  they  in- 
vite their  friends  to  partake  of  their  hospitality,  if  they  know  how  to 
entertain  them.  Money  of  course  will  provide  delicacies  of  all  kinds, 
but  to  know  how  to  dispose  of  those  delicacies  to  the  best  advantage, 
that  your  friends  may  appreciate  them,  is  what  is  sadly  wanting  in 
more  than  one  house  I  visit. 

A  very  excellent  remark  is  made  in  Punch  by  Mr.  Brown,  in  his 
Letters  to  a  Young  Man  about  Town,  on  the  subject  of  great  and  little 
dinners.  He  says :  "  Properly  considered  the  quality  of  the  dinner  is 
twice  blest ;  it  blesses  him  that  gives,  and  him  that  takes ;  a  dinner 
with  friendliness  is  the  best  of  all  friendly  meetings — a  pompous  enter- 
tainment, where  no  love  is,  is  the  least  satisfactory." 

Our  dinner  on  which  you  compliment  me  so  much,  we  sat  down 
twelve,  for  although  the  room  and  table  would  accommodate  more,  yet 


THE    DINNER-TABLE.        •  329 


as  my  service  of  plate  is  for  that  number,  and  the  arrangements  of  the 
kitchen  are  limited,  that  is  the  number  I  prefer,  besides  beyond  which 
the  conversation  becomes  partial,  which  is  the  bane  of  a  dinner-table. 
You  know  we  have  no  regular  man-servant,  but  for  these  occasions  I 
hire  two,  and  place  one  on  each  side  the  table,  and  they  each  have  their 
own  side  table  with  a  change  of  everything  that  is  required.  The  first 
thing  to  be  looked  to  is  the  lights :  these  ought  to  be  so  placed  as  not 
to  intercept  the  view  of  any  person  at  the  table,  but  at  the  same  time 
they  ought  to  be  enough  to  show  everything  off  to  advantage ;  I  prefer 
removing  some  of  the  lights  from  the  table  to  the  sideboard  when  the 
cloth  is  removed,  as  the  light  after  dinner  ought  to  be  more  subdued. 
In  laying  the  cloth  we  place  it  over  the  baize,  and  remove  it  after  din- 
ner, as  Mr.  B.  says  he  likes  to  see  the  mahogany,  for  when  he  asks  a 
city  friend  to  come  and  put  his  feet  under  his  mahogany,  it  looks  rather 
foolish  if  he  never  sees  it.  I  have,  as  you  know,  my  table  rather  wide, 
that  is,  six  feet,  and  I  generally  place  a  vase  of  flowers  in  the  centre, 
as  I  think  their  freshness  and  odor  add  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the 
table,  and  admit  a  flanc  on  each  side.  We  prefer  the  old  English  plan 
of  taking  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  table,  instead  of  I  and  Mr.  B. 
being  together  at  the  side. 

The  cloth  being  laid  with  its  proper  side  uppermost,  I  order  a  nap- 
kin, two  knives,  two  prongs,  two  tablespoons,  and  two  wine-glasses  to 
be  placed  to  each  person,  a  saltcellar  between  every  other,  that  being  a 
condiment  wliich  every  one  uses,  though  often  wrongly ;  the  cruet- 
frames  and  other  requisites  are  kept  on  the  sideboards.  I  then  have 
the  fish  and  soup  served  together,  the  potatoes  and  sauce  on  the  side- 
board ;  I  serving  the  soup,  and  Mr.  B.  the  fish,  and  often  a  little  dish  of 
fried  fish,  such  as  smelts,  &c.,  to  remove  the  soups.  This  gives  me  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  that  my  guests  are  properly  attended  to,  and 
also  leisure  of  taking  wine  with  any  gentleman  who  challenges  me. 
During  the  time  this  course  has  been  progressing,  the  cook  has  had 
time  to  dish  up  the  removes  nice  and  hot,  and  get  all  up  close  to  the 
door,  as  I  like  as  little  time  as  possible  to  intervene  in  changing  the 
dishes;  and  these  consist  generally  of  variously  dressed  chickens, 
which  I  have  before  me,  as  this  gives  an  opportunity  for  the  gentleman 
on  my  right  to  display  his  gallantry ;  but,  thanks  to  Soyer's  separator, 
this  is  an  easy  task.  "This  affords  me  still  further  leisure  to  pay  atten- 
tion to  my  guests.  Mr.  B.,  who  is  a  capital  carver,  either  has  a  saddle 
or  a  haunch  of  mutton,  or  a  quarter  of  lamb  before  him,  the  rest  of  the 
dishes  consisting  of  a  tongue  and  entrees.  I  select  those  most  easy  to 
carve,  and  also  easy  for  the  cook  to  prepare.  This  is  a  period  of  din- 
ner where  a  great  deal  depends  upon  the  attendants ;  they  should  know 
almost  by  the  look  what  thi*  lady  or  that  gentleman  require,  and  what 
kind  of  vegetables  to  hand  them ;  a  firstrate  butler  should  be  able  to 
judge  by  the  physiognomy  to  whom  he  should  offer  mint  sauce  with 
the  lamb,  and  who  prefers  cayenne ;  on  their  attention  and  hot  plates, 
depends  the  success  of  the  substantial  part  of  the  dinner. 

As  soon  as  I  see  that  all  are  served,  and  words  are  few  in  conse- 
quence of  the  organ  wliich  utters  them  being  employed  in  another 
way,  I  give  a  look  to  the  two  servants,  which  they  understand,  and  im- 


330  THE    DINNER-TABLE. 


mediately  two  reports  are  heard, — they  are  from  two  bottles  of  cham- 
pagne, opened  at  the  same  time  by  the  attendants,  who  have  each  a  sal- 
ver with  six  glasses  on  it ;  this  takes  but  a  short  time  to  serve,  and  pre- 
pares the  palate  for  the  entrees,  which  generally  get  praised ;  indeed 
my  cook  would  think  something  was  wrong  if  two  of  the  dishes  did 
not  go  down  empty.  By  having  the  champagne  thus,  I  find  it  goes 
much  further  than  if  only  one  bottle  was  opened  at  the  time,  there 
being  sufficient  left  in  the  bottles  for  a  gentleman  to  challenge  a  lady  to 
take  champagne  with  him.  If  I  have  game  I  remove  the  top  and  bot- 
tom dishes  with  them,  and  make  the  sweets  a  separate  course,  taking 
care  to  have  cold  plates  for  the  jelly,  and  having  the  liquors  handed 
round  when  the  sweets  are  on  the  table ;  one  cheese  I  place  opposite 
Mr.  B.,  and  macaroni  opposite  myself.  Objections  have  been  made  to 
the  use  of  napkins,  as  being  of  no  service  at  an  English  dinner-table, 
and  only  a  copy  of  the  dirty  manners  of  our  neighbors.  If  we  are 
more  cleanly  at  the  table  than  they  are  (wliich  I  question),  there  is  no 
reason  why  we  should  not  use  that  which  would  make  us  still  more  so ; 
but  Mr.  B.  is  so  well  pleased  with  the  rose  water  which  he  has  at  the 
court  dinners  of  his  company,  that  he  made  me  a  present  of  those  two 
beautiful  dishes  which  you  admired  so  much.  The  outside  compart- 
ment holds  rose-water,  and  the  inner  one  a  little  eau-de-cologne ;  these 
are  placed  on  salvers,  and  pass  down  each  side  of  the  table,  the  corner 
of  each  napkin  being  dipped  into  it.  They  seem  to  be  absolutely  re- 
quired, and  I  must  say  they  form  a  delightful  adjunct  to  the  dinner- 
table. 

He*  has  also  introduced  at  our  table,  but  only  at  Christmas,  another 
city  custom,  which  the  gentlemen  seem  very  much  to  like, — I  cannot 
say  so  for  the  ladies ;  it  is  what  he  calls  a  loving  cup ;  he  has  it  placed 
before  him  when  the  cheese  is  put  on ;  and  after  filling  the  glass  of  the 
lady  on  each  side  of  him,  he  rises  and  drinks  to  their  health  and  the 
rest  of  the  company,  and  then  passes  it  to  the  gentleman  on  the  left, 
who,  in  like  manner,  fills  the  glass  of  the  lady  on  his  left,  rises,  drinks 
to  her  health  and  the  company,  and  thus  it  goes  round  the  table.  Your 
husband,  my  dear  Eloise,  thought  that  the  contents  were  exceedingly 
good,  or,  as  he  expressed  it,  nectar  fit  for  the  gods,  and  would  like  to 
have  the  receipt, — here  it  is  as  Mr.  B.  prepares  it : — The  cup  holds  two 
quarts ;  he  places  in  it  half  a  teacupful  of  capillaire ;  if  he  has  none,  he 
uses  dissolved  lump  sugar,  with  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water  in 
it,  one  pint  of  brown  sherry,  one  bottle  of  good  Edinburgh  ale,  mixing 
these  together,  and  a  minute  before  placing  on  the  table,  adding  one 
bottle  of  soda  water,  stirring  it  well  up  till  it  froths ;  he  then  grates 
some  nutmeg  on  the  froth,  and  places  a  piece  of  toast  in  it,  and  sends 
it  to  the  table  with  a  napkin  through  the  handle  ol  the  cup.  I  must 
say,  since  we  have  had  this,  it  has  produced  some  most  interesting  con- 
versation as  regarded  the  antiquity  of  the  custom,  <fec.  In  addition,  Mr. 
B.  bought  the  cup  at  a  sale,  and  it  is  stated  to  have  been  drunk  out  of 
by  Henry  the  Eighth :  this  of  itself  is  a  subject  of  conversation,  and 

*  With  regard  to  the  wine,  that  is  a  matter  I  leave  entirely  to  Mr.  B.,  but  his 
maxim  is,  that  "the  best  is  the  cheapest." 


THE    DINNER-TABLE.  331 


draws  out  the  talents  and  conversational  powers  of  our  guests,  and  one 
in  which  ladies  can  join,  as  there  is  hardly  one  of  our  sex  who  has  not 
read  Miss  Strickland's  "  Queens  of  England."  You  have  often  made 
the  remark,  that  the  time  always  appears  short  whilst  we  are  at  table  ; 
this  is,  no  doubt,  from  the  animated  conversation  which  is  kept  up,  for 
that  is  the  real  motive  of  meeting  together,  to  enjoy  the  conversation 
of  one  another,  to  gain  and  impart  information,  and  amuse  ourselves 
with  the  wit  and  talent  of  those  around  us,  and  not  for  the  sake  of  eat- 
ing and  drinking  ;  yet  without  the  assistance  of  both  of  these,  the 
most  sparkling  wit  would  be  as  heavy  as  a  bad  souffle,  and  the  bright- 
est talent  as  dull  as  my  looking-glass  on  a  foggy  day. 

In  order  to  prolong  the  time,  and  to  enjoy  the  gentlemen's  society  as 
much  as  possible,  I  do  not  have  the  dessert  placed  on  the  table  until  ten 
or  twenty  minutes  after  the  cloth  is  removed ;  this  also  gives  an  oppor- 
tunity for  my  guests  to  admire  the  beautiful  Sevres  dessert  plates, 
containing  views  of  the  French  chateaux;  this  of  course  gives  a  subject 
for  conversation  to  those  who  have  visited  them.  In  the  dessert  I  gene- 
rally introduce  some  new  importation,  such  as  bananas,  sugar-cane, 
American  lady  apples,  prickly  pears,  <fcc. ;  these  also  give  a  subject  for 
the  gentlemen  to  talk  about  when  the  ladies  have  left,  as  free  trade, 
colonial  policy,  (fee.  About  half  an  hour  after  the  dessert  is  on  the 
table,  and  when  I  see  that  the  conversation  is  becoming  less  general,  I 
retire  to  the  drawing-room ;  the  servants  then  remove  the  dirty  glass 
and  plates,  and  Mr.  B.  introduces  some  of  his  choice  claret  or  Burgundy 
in  ice  coolers. 

You  know,  my  dear  Eloise,  I  allow  very  little  more  than  half  an  hour 
for  us  to  talk  about  the  last  new  fashions,  or  of  Mrs.  A.  and  B.'s  cap, 
and  the  young  ones  about  their  partners  at  the  last  ball,  and  other 
nothings,  when  the  tea  and  coffee  are  brought  up  on  salvers ;  it  is  al- 
ways made  down  stairs,  and  sent  up  in  cups  to  the  drawing-room,  al- 
though Mr.  B.  had  a  very  handsome  silver  service  presented  to  him  just 
after  we  were  married,  for  serving  as  an  honorary  secretary  to  some 
grand  masonic  festival,  yet  the'  rnilk  ewer  and  sugar  basin  are  all  I 
allow  in  the  room.  This  does  away  with  the  formality  of  the  tea-table 
and  the  hissing  of  the  tea-urn ;  it  allows  some  young  gentlemen  with  a 
Byron  collar  and  a  little  down  under  his  chin  to  turn  over  the  pages  of 
a  music-book  for  a  young  lady  at  the  piano,  and  make  his  coffee  at  the 
same  time ;  it  allows  my  dear  mamma  and  Mr.  P.  to  make  up  their 
whist  table,  and  have  their  tea  whilst  playing ;  or,  if  we  make  up  a 
quadrille,  to  have  a  few  turns  of  a  waltz  or  polka,  the  coffee  is  serving 
during  the  time ;  whilst  this  is  going  on  the  hand  of  the  clock  advances, 
and  half-past  ten  soon  arrives,  and  with  it  Mrs.  C.'s  fly;  Dr.  D.'s 
brougham  is  at  the  door ;  the  party  breaks  up.  delighted  with  the 
evening  they  have  passed  in  each  other's  society:  and  this  you  see 
done  with  trifling  management. 


332  BEVERAGES    FOR    EVENING    PARTIES. 


LETTER  No.  XVIII. 

DEAREST  ELOISE, — You  are  right  in  your  remark,  that  there  is  a  great 
difference  as  to  the  manner  and  way  in  which  evening  parties  or  soirees 
are  given  in  different  houses,  although  being  frequented  by  the  same 
party  or  circle.  I  must  say  I  have  my  own  ideas  on  this  subject,  and 
I  think  the  French  understand  this  matter  much  better  than  we  do,  and 
that  we  could  not  do  better  than  imitate  them.  We  English  are  a 
plodding,  matter-of-fact  people,  and  carry  our  notions  into  every  con- 
cern in  hfe :  our  dinners  and  entertainments  are  given  with  an  ulterior 
object,  and  with  a  view  of  what  may  be  gained  from  it,  even  from  the 
charitable  dinner  at  the  London  Tavern  to  the  man  who  asks  another 
to  partake  of  a  pint  of  beer  with  him  at  a  public-house.  It  is  this,  to- 
gether with  ostentation,  which  is  the  bane  of  society,  by  bringing  together 
people  of  incongruity  of  ideas,  destroying  that  free  exchange  of  thought 
which  constitutes  the  true  pleasure  of  social  reunions ;  we  are  also  nat- 
urally of  a  reserved  and  cautious  disposition :  hence  the  reason  why  the 
pleasures  of  a  soiree  are  not  felt  until  after  supper.  Of  these  I  am  a 
great  advocate,  though  not  to  the  extravagant  and  outre  manner  many 
are  given  in  the  present  day.  Of  course  in  the  way  most  ladies  are  now 
educated,  they  would  rather  be  attending  to  the  adornment  of  their 
persons  for  the  occasion  than  to  the  entertainment  and  amusement  of 
their  guests.  Those  who  can  afford  it,  are  quite  right  to  patronize  a 
first-rate  confectioner,  and  thus  save  themselves  the  trouble  ;  but  how 
many  that  cannot  afford  it  do  the  same  thing,  and  make  a  bargain  for  a 
bad  supper  with  one,  by  wliich  he  gains  little,  and  the  guests  great  dis- 
gust, instead  of  doing  it  at  home  and  ordering  a  few  good  things  which 
would  look  and  eat  well.  There  are  a  variety  of  drinks  which  could  be 
made  at  a  moderate  expense,  good  and  wholesome,  and  infinitely  better 
than  bad  Marsala,  which  you  are  often  obliged  to  partake  of.  I  will 
enclose  you  a  few  receipts  for  them,  an,d  some  bills  of  fare  for  suppers 
for  small  soirees. 


BEVERAGES  FOR  EVENING  PARTIES. 

874.  Lemonade. — Peel  six  lemons  free  from  pith,  cut  them 
up  in  small  pieces,  and  put  them  with  two  cloves  in  a  bottle, 
with  half  a  pint  of  hot  water,  and  place  it  in  a  bain-marie,  or 
stewpan,  with  boiling  water,  and  let  it  stand  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  one  or  two  hours,  taking  care  it  does  not  boil ;  remove 
it  and  let  it  remain  until  cold ;  then  take  half  a  pint  of  lemon- 
juice,  half  a  pint  of  capillaire — if  none,  use  sugar,  that  will 
make  the  same  quantity  of  syrup — to  which  add  a  few  drops 
of  orange-flower  water ;  add  the  infusion  of  the  rind,  stir  well 
together,  and  add  two  quarts  of  cold  water.  The  acidity  of 


SANDWICHES.  333 


some  lemons  is  greater  than  others,  in  which  case,  and  also  if 
using  lime-juice,  more  capillaire  must  be  used. 


875.  Cold  Punch. — Proceed  as  above  for  lemonade,  but 
add  one  pint  of  capillaire  to  half  a  pint  of  lemon-juice,  one 
pint  of  pale  brandy,  one  pint  of  pale  rum,  one  tablespoonful 
of  arrack,  and  five  quarts  of  cold  water ;  let  it  remain  some 
time  before  it  is  decantered. 


876.  Port  Wine  Negus. — Take  one  quart  of  new  port  wine, 
of  a  fruity  character,  one  tablespoonful  of  spirit  of  cloves,  one 
teacupful  of  sugar,  one  lemon  sliced,  half  a  nutmeg  grated, 
pour  over  these  two  quarts  of  boiling  water. 


877.  White  Wine  Fillip. — Take  one  bottle  of  sherry  or 
Madeira,  or  champagne,  or  any  other  good  white  wine,  a  gill 
of  noyeau  or  maraschino,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  add  to 
it  one  quart  of  calf's  foot  jelly  well  sweetened  and  boiling  hot, 
and  serve  immediately. 

878.  Sandwiches. — In   making    a   large    quantity,  a   stale 
quartern  loaf  should  be  taken  and  trimmed  free  from  all  crust, 
and  cut  into  slices  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  slightly 
buttered,  and  then  thin  slices  of  meat,  nicely  trimmed,  may  be 
laid  on  and  covered  with  another  slice  of  bread,  and  then  cut 
into  eight  parts ;  should  they  be  but  some  time  before  they  are 
wanted,  they  ought  to  be  put  one  over  the  other,  as  they  thus 
keep  moist, — a  little  mustard  and  salt  may  be  added  to  the 
meat,  if  preferred.     Some  thin  slices  of  gherkin  may  be  added 
to  the  meat,  and  the  same  plan  can  be  adopted  with  pickled 
fish,  brawn  or  sausages. 

The  following  varies  the  common  mode  of  making  sand- 
wiches : 

Take  a  small  quantity  of  very  fresh  cream  cheese,  put  it 
into  a  basin  or  a  marble  mortar,  add  some  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  mustard,  beat  it  well  up  until  it  is  of  the  same  consist- 
ence as  butter ;  if  too  hard  add  a  little  of  the  latter,  and  use 
it  as  butter  on  the  bread,  with  slices  of  meat  between.  Or 


334  BUTTER,    CHEESE,    ETC. 


make  it  into  salad  sandwiches  : — cover  the  bread  as  before,  and 
have  ready  some  mustard  and  cress  and  water-cresses  well 
washed  and  dried,  put  into  a  bowl  with  mayonnaise  sauce,  and 
when  ready  to  serve  place  it  neatly  between  the  bread. 


LETTER  No.  XIX. 


Farm,  Essex,  July  — ,  1849. 

MY  DEAR  ELOISE, — You  are  no  doubt  surprised  at  receiving  this  from 
the  above  address,  but  you  remember  when  you  last  called  I  thought 
my  little  Emily  was  unwell,  the  next  day  she  seemed  worse,  I  then  had 
the  Dr.  — ,  who  ordered  her  out  of  town,  and  a  friend  of  Mr.  B.'s  being 
present  recommended  this  place ;  so  Emily  and  I  have  now  been  a  week 
here,  and  she  has  already  improved  by  the  change  of  air ;  it  has  also 
done  me  good,  and  I  am  greatly  amused  with  the  various  occupations 
going  on  in  the  farm,  which  is  an  old-fashioned  one,  tenanted  by  a  good 
old  English  farmer,  his  wife,  and  son ;  the  latter  is  gone  to  see  a  brother 
settled  in  Liverpool.  The  cleanliness  and  regularity  of  the  house  are 
quite  charming;  but  what  delights  me  more  than  all  is  the  dairy — such 
delicious  cream  and  butter  that  it  makes  me  quite  envy  people  living 
in  the  country ! 

I  must  describe  the  pretty  dairy  to  you :  it  is  situated  at  the  back  of 
the  house,  and  sheltered  by  it  from  the  mid-day  and  afternoon's  sun, 
and  from  the  morning's  sun  by  a  plantation,  so  that  it  is  deliciously 
cool ;  it  is  about  twelve  feet  long  by  ten  wide,  paved  with  flat  stones, 
and  the  walls  of  plaster,  like  stone,  a  door  at  one  end  with  a  window 
above  and  a  window  high  up  at  the  other  end,  and  two  windows  at  the 
side ;  these  have  thin  wire  shutters  and  glazed  sashes  on  hinges  ;  the 
roof  is  of  slate,  with  about  two  feet  thickness  of  thatch  over  it ;  there 
are  also  several  little  openings  for  the  admission  of  air,  about  one  inch 
from  the  floor.  A  dresser,  two  feet  wide,  being  two  inches  from  the 
wall,  is  on  both  sides,  and  above  these  are  two  shelves  of  nine  inches 
wide,  also  two  inches  from  the  wall,  these  are  supported  on  iron  brackets. 
At  the  end,  and  opposite  the  door,  is  the  churn,  which  is  turned  by  a 
wheel  outside,  with  apparatus  for  a  donkey  or  mule  to  work  it,  if  re- 
quired. 

All  the  utensils  are  of  sycamore  wood  and  perfectly  clean,  never  used 
twice  without  washing  in  hot  water  with  soda  put  in  it,  and  made  per- 
fectly dry. 

There  are  as  many  ways  of  making  butter  as  there  are  counties  in 
Great  Britain.  I  will  now  tell  you  how  it  is  practised  here.  The  cows 
are  milked  at  a  regular  hour,  not  later  than  five,  the  milk  taken  as  soon 
as  possible  into  the  dairy,  and  placed  in  the  dishes  about  six  quarts  in 
each ;  is  thus  left  for  twenty-four  hours ;  then  it  is  skimmed,  and  the 
cream  from  each  is  placed  in  a  deep  bowl  or  pan,  where  it  remains 
until  the  next  day,  when  it  is  churned.  Friday's  milk  is  made  into 


CLOUTED    CREAM. 


335 


cheese ;  when  churned  it  is  gathered  well  together  from  the  milk  and 
laid  in  a  clean  bowl,  with  hard  spring  water  in  it,  and  worked  to  and 
fro  until  it  is  brought  to  a  firm  consistence ;  it  is  then  laid  out  thin,  and 
then  what  is  called  here  a  scotcher  is  taken — that  is,  a  kind  of  five- 
pronged  fork  of  wood,  only  each  prong  is  as  sharp  as  a  knife,  and  drawn 
through  every  part  of  it ;  then  whatever  salt  is  required  is  added,  and 
it  is  then  formed  into  pats,  or  done  any  way  they  like.  If  intended  as 
corned  or  salt  butter,  they  then  add  one  pound  of  fine  salt  to  every  four- 
teen pounds  of  butter ;  in  some  places  the  coarsest  grained  salt  is  used ; 
in  others  two  pounds  of  salt,  one  pound  of  saltpetre,  and  one  pound  of 
white  sugar  mixed  together,  one  fourth  of  this  for  every  fourteen  pounds. 
If  intended  for  keeping,  it  is  put  into  stone  crocks  until  it  is  wanted. 
The  way  in  which  they  make  the  cheese  here  is  as  follows :  all  Friday's 
milk  is  taken,  that  of  the  morning  is  kept  until  the  afternoon,  and  mixed 
with  it ;  then  two  spoonfuls  of  rennet  to  every  twelve  quarts  of  milk 
are  put  to  it  and  well  mixed,  it  is  then  left  all  night.  Very  early  the 
next  morning  the  curd  is  removed  with  a  strainer  and  equally  broken 
into  the  cheese  vat  or  mote  until  it  is  about  one  inch  above  the  brim,  a 
cheese  cloth  or  strainer  having  previously  been  put  at  the  bottom  of  the 
vat,  and  large  enough  to  allow  for  part  of  it  to  be  turned  over  the  top 
when  the  vat  is  filled ;  when  thus  filled  it  is  taken  to  the  press,  and  left 
for  two  hours  with  a  clean  cloth  under  it ;  it  is  then  turned  over  on  the 
cloth,  and  pressed  again ;  and  the  same  process  is  continued  three  or  four 
hours  out  of  the  twenty-four.  It  is  then  removed  and  placed  on  the 
shelf,  and  turned  regularly  every  day  for  the  first  two  months ;  after  that 
occasionally. 

I  intend  to  try  my  hand  at  it  shortly,  and  see  what  I  can  make  of  it. 

I  find  that  the  butter  which  is  made  here  and  potted  for  winter  use 
is  not  intended  to  be  sold  as  salt,  but  as  fresh,  and  the  dairy-maid  has 
just  told  me  how  it  is  done.  For  every  quart  of  new  milk  from  the 
cow,  she  takes  one  pound  of  potted  butter,  which  has  been  treated  thus 
the  day  previous :  into  two  quarts  of  cold  water  two  toblespoonfuls  of 
vinegar  are  mixed,  and  the  potted  butter  well  broken  and  kneaded  in 
it,  and  then  taken  out,  and  served  the  same  in  fresh  water,  in  which  it 
is  left  until  the  next  morning,  and  then  mixed  with  the  milk,  put  into 
the  churn  and  churned  again,  and  then  treated  in  the  usual  way  as 
butter ;  by  this  plan  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  sweet  milk  always  in 
the  farm,  as  it  is  exceedingly  good  when  strained. 

The  following  is  the  way  they  make  the  clouted  cream: — 

879.  Clouted  Cream. — Strain  the  milk  as  soon  as  it  comes 
from  the  cow  into  wide  pans,  holding  about  six  quarts  each,  so 
as  to  be  about  three  inches  deep,  and  let  it  remain  for  twenty- 
four  hours  ;  then  gently  place  the  pan  upon  a  hot  plate  or  slow 
charcoal  fire,  which  must  heat  it  very  gently,  for  if  it  boils  it  is 
spoilt ;  as  sopn  as  the  cream  forms  a  ring  in  the  middle,  remove 
a  little  with  the  finger,  and  if  there  are  a  few  bubbles  rise  in 
the  place  where  you  do  so,  it  is  done,  which  will  be  in  half  to 


336  CONVERSATION    ON    HOUSEHOLD    AFFAIRS. 

three  quarters  of  an  hour ;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  let  it 
remain  twenty-four  hours ;  then  skim  it,  and  throw  a  little 
sugar  on  the  top. 


CONVERSATION  ON  HOUSEHOLD  AFFAIRS. 


Mrs.  B.  You  are  right,  my  dear,  it  is  of  great  importanc 
so  than  many  of  us  imagine,  as  for  myself  I  do  not  considt 


Mrs.  It.  After  all  the  receipts  and  information  which  you  have  given 
me,  there  is  one  which  you  have  not  touched  upon  yet,  which,  perhaps, 
is  of  more  importance  than  all  the  rest,  it  is  the  management  of  ser- 
vants. 

ice,  and  more 
do  not  consider  that  I  am 

a  good  manager,  being  perhaps  of  too  forgiving  a  disposition ;  but  there 
is  one  good  quality  which  I  possess  which  makes  up  for  the  want  of 
others,  that  is  exactitude ;  by  enforcing  this  it  causes  all  to  know  their 
place,  and  perform  their  work. 

Mrs.  R.  But  what  surprises  me  is  to  see  everything  so  well  done  and 
clean  with  so  few  servants  ;  you  seem  to  have  but  two  maid  servants, 
the  cook,  house-maid,  and  coachman. 

Mrs.  B.  Yes,  that  is  all,  and  I  generally  find  that  they  are  enough  for 
the  work,  unless  I  have  a  dinner  party,  and  then  of  course,  as  you  know, 
I  have  extra  men ;  but  I  will  tell  you  how  I  pass  the  day,  and  then  you 
will  be  able  to  judge. 

"We  are  what  are  called  early  risers,  that  is,  Mr.  P.  is  obliged  to  leave 
home  every  week  day  at  twenty  minutes  past  nine  ;  our  breakfast  is 
on  the  table  at  half-past  eight ;  the  breakfast  parlor  having  previously 
been  got  ready,  as  the  servants  rise  at  seven.  We  are,  when  we  have 
no  visitors,  our  two  selves,  the  three  children^  and  the  governess.  The 
children,  in  summer  time,  have  had  a  walk  before  breakfast,  but  before 
leaving  their  room  they  uncover  their  beds,  and  if  fine  open  the  windows, 
if  a  wet  morning  about  two  inches  of  the  top  sash  is  pulled  down.  The 
servants  get  their  breakfast  at  the  same  time  as  we  do,  as  we  require 
hardly  any  or  no  waiting  upon,  everything  being  ready  on  the  table. 
In  a  former  letter  I  told  you  what  was  our  breakfast  some  years  since 
when  in  business,  now  we  have  placed  on  the  table  some  brown  bread, 
rolls  and  dry  toast ;  the  butter  is  in  a  glass  butter-dish,  and  the  eggs 
are  brought  up  when  we  have  sat  down  to  table.  The  urn  is  placed  on 
the  table,  as  I  make  my  own  tea  and  coffee ;  the  cocoa  is  made  down 
stairs. 

You  will  perhaps  be  surprised  when  I  say  that  I  make  the  coffee  for 
breakfast  myself,  but  I  have  done  so  for  some  little  time  past,  having 
found  that  when  made  in  the  kitchen  it  never  came  up  twice  alike,  but 
now  we  always  have  it  delicious. 

I  lately  purchased  a  coffee-pot  which  enables  me  to  do  it  in  the  very 


CONVERSATION    ON    HOUSEHOLD    AFFAIRS.  33*7 


best  manner,  with  no  more  trouble  than  I  have  in  making  the  tea.  I 
mentioned  it  in  my  receipts  for  coffee,  and  said  it  was  invented  by  a 
Mr.  S.,  which  letter  was  inserted  by  mistake  instead  of  C.  which  it 
ought  to  be.  It  is  called  Carey's  Hecla.  It  makes  the  very  best  coffee 
at  one  short  operation,  and  is  so  contrived  as  to  produce  it  almost  boil- 
ing hot;  in  fact,  never  permitting  the  great  mistake  of  boiling  the  coffee 
itself  at  all. 

Mr.  B.  generally  leaves  home  in  the  brougham,  which  returns  in  time 
for  me ;  in  case  I  should  be  going  out,  he  then  goes  in  a  cab  or  omnibus. 
Whilst  we  are  at  breakfast.  I  generally  consult  Mr.  B.  what  he  would 
like  for  dinner,  and  if  he  is  likely  to  invite  any  friend  to  dine  with  him ; 
the  fishmonger  has  previously  sent  his  list  and  prices  of  the  day.  I 
then  write  with  a  pencil  on  a  slip  of  paper  the  bill  of  fare  for  the 
nursery  dinner,  luncheon,  should  any  be  required,  and  our  dinner,  which 
I  send  to  the  cook.  At  ten  o'clock  I  go  down  stairs  into  the  kitchen 
and  larder,  when  the  cook  gives  me  her  report,  that  is  everything  that 
is  required  for  the  next  twenty-four  hours'  consumption,  including  the 
servants'  dinner,  which  report  is  filed  in  the  larder  and  made  to  tally 
with  the  week's  list,  for  I  must  tell  you  that  the  week's  consumption 
of  all  things  that  will  not  spoil  is  had  in  on  the  Saturday,  on  which 
day  the  larder  is  properly  scoured  out,  and  everything  put  again  into 
its  proper  place,  there  being  bins  for  all  kinds  of  vegetables,  &c.  The 
larder  is  generally  kept  locked,  the  cook  and  I  only  having  keys,  be- 
cause it  is  in  fact  a  larder,  and  not,  as  in  many  houses,  full  of  emptiness ; 
this  occupies  about  half  an  hour,  during  which  tune  the  chambermaids 
have  been  attending  to  the  bed-rooms  and  drawing-room,  <fcc.  If  I  go 
out  or  not,  I  always  get  my  toilet  finished  by  twelve  o'clock ;  I  thus 
have  one  hour  to  write  notes,  or  see  tradesmen  or  my  dressmaker,  and 
Monday  mornings  check  and  pay  my  tradesmen's  accounts,  and  to  dress. 
If  I  stop  at  home,  I  amuse  myself  by  reading,  or  going  to  see  the  children 
in  the  nursery,  or  sometimes  go  again  into  the  kitchen  and  assist  the  cook 
on  some  new  receipt  or  preparation,  and  often  have  several  calls ;  during 
the  course  of  the  morning  the  two  maids  scour  out  alternately  one  or 
two  of-  the  rooms,  according  to  size,  except  on  Wednesdays,  when  one 
of  them  is  otherwise  engaged. 

Mr.  B.  arrives  home  at  twenty  minutes  to  five,  and  at  half-past  five 
we  dine :  the  cloth  is  laid,  and  everything  prepared  as  if  we  had  com- 
pany ;  it  may  be  a  little  more  trouble  for  the  servants ;  but  when  we 
do  have  any  friends  they  find  it  less  trouble ;  besides  it  is  always  un- 
certain but  what  Mr.  B.  may  bring  somebody  home  with  him,  and  it 
prevents  slovenly  habits ;  the  two  maids,  with  the  exception  of  Wednes- 
days, are  always  ready  to  attend  on  us.  I  never  allow  the  coachman 
to  defile  our  carpets  with  his  stable  shoes ;  all  his  duties  in  the  house 
are — the  first  thing  in  the  morning  to  clean  the  knives  and  forks  for  the 
day,  for  enough  are  kept  out  for  that  purpose,  clean  the  boots  and 
shoes,  and  those  windows  the  maids  cannot  easily  get  at,  and  assist  in 
the  garden  if  required.  Many  liave  made  the  remark  to  me,  that  as 
you  have  a  mule  servant  why  not  have  him  wait  at  table.  I  reply  that 
the  duties  of  the  stable  are  incompatible  with  those  of  the  table,  and  if 
he  does  his  duty  properly  he  has  enough  to  do.  The  servants  dine  at 

15 


338  CONVERSATION    ON    HOUSEHOLD    AFFAIRS. 


one,  and  have  tea  at  quarter  to  five,  by  which  time  the  cook  has  every- 
thing ready,  all  but  to  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  the  maids  the  dining- 
room  ready.  The  nursery  dinner  is  at  the  same  hour ;  after  dinner, 
should  we  be  alone,  we  have  the  children  and  the  governess  down  ;  if 
we  have  company  we  do  not  see  them ;  they  go  to  bed  at  a  quarter  to 
eight,  and  we  have  tea  and  coffee  at  eight ;  the  governess  comes  and  passes 
the  rest  of  the  evening  with  us ;  eleven  is  our  usual  hour  of  retiring, 
before  which  Mr.  B.  likes  his  glass  of  negus,  a  biscuit,  or  a  sandwich, 
which  is  brought  upon  a  tray. 

Mrs.  L. — What  you  have  described  to  me  is  all  very  well,  yet  I  am 
certain,  that  if  I  go  and  try  to  do  the  same  to-morrow,  I  shall  not  suc- 
ceed ;  how  is  it  that  you  have  everything  in  its  place,  and  I  never  hear 
a  word  said  to  the  servants  ? 

Mrs.  J3. — It  is  because  they  all  know  their  duties,  and  if  they  should 
in  any  way  neglect  them,  I  think  of  the  maxim,  bear  and  forbear,  for 
none  of  us  are  perfect,  and  I  take  an  opportunity  when  I  may  be  alone 
with  them  to  tell  them  quietly  of  their  faults.  Some  mistresses  will  go 
into  the  kitchen  and  be  angry  with  them  before  the  other  servants ;  the 
consequence  is,  that  as  soon  as  her  back  is  turned  they  all  begin  to  laugh. 
A  ridiculous  incident  of  this  kind  occurred  the  other  evening  at  Mrs.  G.'s. 
We  missed  her  out  of  the  drawing-room  just  before  tea,  and  it  appeared 
that  her  young  boy  Fred,  followed  her ;  whilst  we  were  at  tea  he  was 
very  communicative,  as  children  sometimes  will  be  (F enfant  terrible), 
and  said,  "  We  have  been  having  such  fun  in  the  kitchen."  On  inquiry 
he  said,  "  My  mother  has  been  down  stairs  scolding  Jane,  and  I  hid  my- 
self behind  the  door ;  and  when  my  mother  had  gone  up,  Betsy  the 
cook  spoke  and  moved  her  hands  just  like  mamma ;  it  made  us  all 
laugh  so,  it  was  such  fun."  I  need  not  tell  you  it  was  no  fun  for  Mrs. 
G-.,  who  looked  rather  annoyed.  We  should  ever  remember,  that  we 
have  our  feelings,  and  should  also  think  that  others  have  theirs  ;  and  I 
think  it  is  as  much  the  mistress's  fault  when  anything  goes  wrong  in  the 
house,  as  the  servants'.  I  only  lose  my  servants  when  they  get  married, 
or  from  ill  health,  and  the  only  thing  that  I  find  bad,  is,  that  they  quar- 
rel amongst  themselves,  but  should  this  occur  thrice  with  the  same  two, 
I  dismiss  them  both.  I  am  certain,  that  if  you  teach  your  servants  to 
take  care  of  themselves,  they  are  certain  to  take  care  of  you.  I  con- 
tinually hear  Mrs.  M.  complaining  of  changing  her  servants,  and  that 
seems  to  be  her  sole  occupation.  Poor  tiling,  she  has  no  children,  and 
nothing  to  occupy  her  mind,  and  without  occupation  the  mind  becomes 
diseased,  and  the  least  action  throws  it  into  fever.  Mrs.  N.  complains 
of  the  extravagance  of  her  servants ;  it  is  her  own  extravagance,  or, 
more  properly  speaking,  her  want  of  management  which  causes  all ;  but 
this  I  really  think,  that  if  everybody  were  more  cautious  in  receiving 
and  giving  characters  to  servants  other  than  what  they  are,  we  should 
not  hear  the  continual  complaint  we  do,  when  often  assembled  in  the 
drawing-room  after  dinner,  when,  perhaps,  some  dear  old  lady  com- 
plains of  the  education  given  to  young  people  of  the  present  day,  and 
that,  in  time,  there  will  be  no  such  thing  as  servants.  To  some  extent 
I  am  of  her  opinion,  and  consider  that  the  education  given  by  all  classes 
to  their  children,  is  a  great  deal  more  ornamental  than  useful.  I  would 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  339 


rather  see  the  child  taught  some  of  the  accomplishments  of  housekeep- 
ing, than  that  she  should  be  considered  as  the  mere  ornament  of  the 
drawing-room.  I  think  it  is  the  bounden  duty  of  every  mother,  where 
the  income  of  the  husband  may  be  dependent  on  trade  or  profession,  to 
give  her  children  that  education  which  even  the  most  adverse  of  cir- 
cumstances may  call  upon  them  to  assume.  Look  at  the  advertise- 
ments wliich  appear  in  the  public  press  every  day ! — Young  girls  offer- 
ing themselves  as  governesses,  to  be  remunerated  by  their  board; 
whereas,  if  they  had  been  educated  with  a  knowledge  of  some  useful 
employment,  they  would  have  made  good  ladies'  maids  or  housekeep- 
ers, or  useful  wives  to  tradesmen. 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 

"When  I  was  first  married  and  commencing  business,  and  our  means 
were  limited,  the  following  was  our  system  of  living : 

Sunday's  Dinner. — Roast-Beef,  Potatoes,  Greens,  and  Yorkshire  Pud- 
ding. 

Monday. — Hashed  Beef  and  Potatoes. 

Tuesday. — Broiled  Beef  and  Bones,  Vegetables,  and  Spotted  Dick 
Pudding. 

Wednesday. — Fish  if  cheap,  Chops  and  Vegetables. 

Thursday. — Boiled  Pork,  Peas  Pudding,  and  Greens. 

Friday. — Peas  Soup,  Remains  of  Pork. 

Saturday. — Stewed  Steak  with  Suet  Dumpling. 

The  Sunday's  dinner  I  used  to  vary,  one  time  Beef,  another  Mutton, 
another  Pork  or  Veal,  and  sometimes  a  Baked  Sucking  Pig ;  our  living 
then,  including  a  good  Breakfast  and  Tea,  cost  us  about  32s.  per  week. 

In  case  we  had  a  few  friends,  we  used  to  make  an  addition  by  hav- 
ing one  Fish,  Leg  of  Mutton,  Roast  Fowls,  Pickled  Pork,  and  Peas 
Pudding,  with  a  Mould  Pudding  and  Fruit  Tart,  and  a  little  dessert. 

This  was  for  the  first  two  years ;  our  means  and  business  then  increas- 
ing, and  having  the  three  young  men  to  dine  with  us,  we  were  of  course 
obliged  to  increase  our  expenditure  and  to  alter  our  mode  of  living, 
besides  which  I  had  accompanied  Mr.  B.  to  France,  where  my  culinary 
ideas  received  a  great  improvement. 

The  following  is  the  plan  we  then  adopted : 

Sunday. — Pot-au-Feu,  Fish — Haunch  of  Mutton  or  a  Quarter  of  Lamb, 
or  other  good  joint — Two  Vegetables — Pastry  and  a  Fruit 
Pudding— A  little  Dessert. 

Monday. — Vermicelli  Soup  made  from  the  Pot-au-Feu  of  the  day  pre- 
vious— The  Bouilli  of  the  Pot-au-Feu — Remains  of  the  Mut- 
ton—Two Vegetables— Fruit  Tart 

Tuesday. — Fish — Shoulder  of  Veal  stuffed — Roast  Pigeons,  or  Leveret, 
or  Curry — Two  Vegetables — Apples  with  Rice,  and  light 
Pastry. 


340  BILLS    OF    FARE. 


Wednesday. — Spring  Soup — Roast  Fowls,  Remains  of  Veal  minced,  and 

Poached  Eggs — Two  Vegetables^— Rowley  Powley  Pudding. 
Thursday. — Roast-Beef — Remains  of  Fowl — Two  Vegetables — Sweet 

Omelette. 
Friday. — Fish — Shoulder  of  Lamb — Miroton  of  Beef — Two  Vegetables 

— Baked  Pudding. 
Saturday. — Mutton  Broth — Boiled  Neck  Mutton — Liver  and  Bacon — 

Two  Vegetables — Currant  Pudding. 

Our  parties  then,  when  we  had  them,  never  consisted  of  more  than 
ten, 

"We  had:  Julienne  Soup — Fish — a  quarter  of  Lamb — Vegetables, 
Cutlets — Vegetables,  Bacon  and  Beans — Boiled  Turkey — Pheasant — 
Jelly  or  Cream — Pastry — Lobster  Salad — Omelette  or  Souffle — Des- 
sert, <fec. 

At  present,  though  the  number  of  our  establishment  is  not  greater, 
yet  the  style  and  manner  of  our  living  have  changed.  We  dine  alone, 
except  when  Mr.  B.  invites  somebody  to  dine  with  him,  which  is  most 
generally  the  case ;  our  daily  bill  of  fare  consists  of  something  like  the 
following : — 

One  Soup  or  Fish,  generally  alternate — One  Remove,  either  Joint  or 
Poultry — One  Entree — Two  Vegetables — Pudding  or  Tart — A  little 
Dessert. 

This  may  seem  a  great  deal  for  two  persons ;  but  when  you  remem- 
ber that  we  almost  invariably  have  one  or  two  to  dine  with  us,  and  the 
remains  are  required  for  the  breakfast,  lunch,  nursery  and  servants'  din- 
ners, you  will  perceive  that  the  dinner  is  the  principal  expense  of  the 
establishment,  by  which  means  you  are  enabled  to  display  more  liber- 
ality to  your  guests,  and  li ve  in  greater  comfort  without  waste.  Our 
parties  at  present,  to  many  of  which  you  have  constantly  been,  and 
therefore  know,  vary  according  to  the  season ;  here  are  a  few  bills  of 
fare  of  them ;  the  following  is  one  for  two  persons : — 

One  Soup,  say  Puree  of  Artichokes — One  Fish,  Cod  Slices  in  Oyster 
Sauce — Remove  with  Smelts  or  White  Bait. 
Removes. — Saddle  of  Mutton — Turkey  in  Celery  Sauce. 
Two  Entrees. — Cutlets  a  la  Proven9ale — Sweetbreads  larded  in  any 

White  Sauce. 
Two  Vegetables. — Greens — Kale — Potatoes  on  the  Sideboard. 

SECOND   COURSE. 

Two  Roasts.— Partridges— Wild  Ducks. 

Jelly  of  Fruit — Cheesecakes — Meringue  a  la  Creme— 
Vegetable — French  Salad  on  the  Sideboard. 
Removes. — Ice  Pudding — Beignet  Souffle. 
Dessert  of  eleven  dishes. 

The  following  is  one  for  a  birthday  party,  which  generally  consists  of 
twenty  persons : — 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  341 


FIRST   COURSE. 

Two  Soups — Two  Fish. 

Removes. — Haunch  of  Mutton — Broiled  Capons  a  1'Ecarlate. 
Flancs. — Fricandeau  of  Veal — Currie  of  Fowl. 

Entrees. — Fillets  of  Beef,  sauce  Tomate — Cutlets  Soubise — Oyster  Pat- 
ties, or  Little  Vol-au-Vent ;  Croquettes  of  Veal  or  Fowl* 

SECOND  COURSE. 

"Wild  Ducks — Guinea  Fowl  larded — Charlotte  Russe — Punch 
Jelly,  Crusts  of  Fruit — Flanc  Meringue — Apple  with  Rice 
— Scolloped  Oysters — Mayonnaise  of  Fowl — Sea  Kale  or 
Asparagus. 
Removes. — Turban  of  Conde  Glacee — Cheese  Souffle  a  la  Vanille. 

Dessert  of  nineteen  dishes. 

The  bills  of  fare  for  our  small  evening  parties,  say  thirty  persons, 
are  as  foUows ;  everything  is  cold,  although  I  know  that  the  fashion 
has  been  progressing  towards  having  hot  removes. 

Our  table  on  those  occasions  is,  as  you  know,  in  the  form  of  a  horse- 
shoe, which,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  most  sociable  after  that  of  a  round 
one,  and  upon  the  sociability  of  the  supper  depends  in  a  great  measure 
the  success  of  the  party.  In  the  centre,  and  at  the  head  of  the  table,  I 
place  a  large  Grouse-pie,  the  same  as  Wos.  249,  285,  of  which,  by  my 
recommendation,  everybody  partakes ;  I  then  on  each  of  the  wings 
have  Fowls,  Lobster  Salads,  Mayonnaises  of  Fowl,  Ham,  Tongue,  cut 
in  slices,  and  dished  over  parsley,  ornamented  with  Aspic  Jelly ;  and 
on  the  sideboard  I  have  a  fine  piece  of  Sirloin  of  Beef,  plain  roasted,  or 
an  Aitch-Bone  of  Beef,  or  FiUet  of  Veal.  Should  there  be  no  game, 
I  have  a  Turkey  or  Fowls  en  Galantine,  instead  of  the  Grouse-pie,  or 
if  game  is  plentiful,  I  have  less  poultry,  and  add  roast  Pheasants — 
mind,  not  fowls  with  black  legs  larded,  and  a  pheasant's  tail  put  to 
them,  but  real  ones, — or  Partridges  or  Grouse,  or  a  fine  Salad  of  Game. 

With  the  Sweets  I  generally  place  about  twelve — four  on  each  table, 
that  is  4  Jellies,  2  Creams,  2  Bavaroises,  4  Iced  Cabinet  Puddings,  and 
4  Raised  Dishes  of  small  Pastry,  all  of  which  are  artistically  disposed 
upon  the  table. 

The  fruits  are  likewise  placed  on  the  table :  they  consist  of  simple 
Compotes,  6  of  various  kinds  and  6  of  Dried  Fruit,  Biscuits,  Wafers 
and  Cossacks,  which  last  are  getting  much  out  of  fashion,  but  are  very 
amusing. 

The  following  is  the  Bill  of  Fare  for  Mr.  B.'s  Birthday  Party,  for 
which  he  allows  me  £15,  with  wliich  I  find  everything  in  the  shape  of 
refreshments,  with  the  exception  of  wine ;  it  is — 

One  Raised  Pie — Two  Mayonnaises  of  Fowl — Two  Lobster  Salads — 
One  Piece  of  Roast  Beef— Four  Dishes  of  Fowl — Two  Dishes  of 
Pheasant — Four  Dishes  of  Tongue — Four  Dishes  of  Ham — Four  Jellies 
with  Fruit — Two  Creams  with  Noyeau — Two  Flancs  with  Apple 

*  These  should  be  served  on  dishes  with  a  napkin. 


342  BILLS    OF    FARE. 


Meringue — Two  Iced  Cabinet  Puddings — Two  Puddings  a  la  Eloise — 
Six  Various  Pastry — Eight  Various  Compotes — Four  Pieces  Montces 
in  China  with  Bonbons,  Cossacks,  <fec. — Four  of  Fruit,  as  Pears,  Grapes, 
<fec. — Four  of  Dried  Fruit,  &c. — Four  of  Biscuits,  <fcc. 

This  perhaps  may  appear  extravagant,  but  we  always  have  them, 
some  country  friends  stopping  a  few  days  with  us,  so  that  I  manage  to 
make  the  best  of  everything,  and  make  my  week's  account  look  very 
well.  We  sometimes  have  as  many  as  sixty  on  an  evening. 

Our  Children's  Parties  are  as  follows,  there  are  generally  about  fifty 
present : 

1 6  Dishes  of  Sandwiches.      4  Dishes  of  Lamb.     4  Dishes  of  Ham. 
4     do.      of  Slices  of  Beef.  4     do.      of  Tongue.  6     do.     of  Fowls. 
10  Dishes  of  Slices  of  Galantine  of  Veal.     1  Dish  of  Dressed  Beef. 
24  Dishes  of  Various  Pastry,  Custards,  Jellies,  Bonbons,  <fec. 

But  I  remember  when  in  business,  on  those  occasions  we  only  used 
to  have  a  large  quantity  of  Sandwiches  and  Patties,  and  used  to  amuse 
the  children  by  labelling  the  Dishes  as  Sandwiches  of  Peacock's 
Tongues,  Patties  of  Partridge's  Eyes,  &c.,  and  also  a  large  quantity  of 
plain  Sweets ;  and  at  that  period  Mr.  B.'s  birthday  party  was  not  so 
extensive  or  recherche  as  at  present.  It  consisted  of  something  like 
the  following : 

A  Roast  Turkey — 2  Dishes  of  Fowls — 1  Ham — 2  Pigeon  Pies — 1 
Piece  of  Boiled  Beef — 4  Lobsters — 4  Salads — 4  Jellies — 4  Tarts — 4 
of  Preserved  Fruit,  &c. — 4  of  Pastry;  with  about  twelve  of  various 
kinds  of  Fruit,  &c. 

You  will  have  seen  by  the  previous  Bills  of  Fare  that  I  have  not  at 
all  encroached  upon  the  high-class  cookery,  they  being  selected  from 
the  receipts  I  have  given  you ;  in  order  that  you  may  see  the  difference, 
I  inclose  the  Bill  of  Fare,  of  a  dinner  given  by  —  Bass,  Esq.,  M.  P.,  at 
the  Reform  Club,  the  other  day,  and  a  copy  of  yesterday's  Post,  con- 
taining one  given  in  the  country.  You  will  find  that  the  dishes  men- 
tioned in  these  Bills  of  Fare  are  not  to  be  found  in  our  receipts. 


BILL    OF    FARE    AT   REFORM    CLUB. 


343 


REFORM  CLUB, 

7  Juillet,  1849. 


Diner  pour  18  Personnes. 


Deux  Potages. 
One  Thick  Turtle. 
One  Clear  Ditto. 

Deux  Poissons. 
Crimped  Salmon,  Turbot 

en  Matelote  Normande.      a  la  Richelieu. 

Deux  Releves.  ^ 

L.  •  -         La  Hanche  de  Venaison  aux  haricots  verts.  |£ 

Les  Poulardes  en  Diademe.  g  ( 

Six  Entrees.  3  I 

Vol-au-Vent  de  Foies  gras  a  la  Talleyrand. 

Cotelettes  d'Agneau  demi  Prove^ale. 
Petits  Canetons  Canaris  aux  jeunes  legumes  glacees.      g  : 
i     Noix  de  Veau  demi  grasse  a  la  puree  de  concombres.     g  j 
\  Ortolans  a  la  Vicomtesse. 

Aiguillettes  de  petits  Poussins  a  la  Banquiere. 

r  '  Deux  Rotis.  g- 1 

\  j  Les  Turkey  Poults  piques  et  bardes,  ^3 1 

[/  garnis  de  Cailles  aux  feuilles  de  vignes. 

Les  Jeunes  Levrauts  au  jus  de  groseilles. 

Huit  Entremets. 
Gelee  a  1'eau  de  vie  Flanc  d'Abricots 

de  Dantzick.  aux  Liqueurs. 

Aspic  de  Homard  Quartiers  d'Artichaux 

a  la  Gelee.  a  la  Venitienne. 

Petits  Pois  Gateau  Milanais 

a  1'Anglaise.  au  Parmesan. 

Pain  de  Peches  Bombe  Glacee 

au  Noyau.  au  Cafe  Moka, 

Jambon  en  surprise  glace 

a  la  Vanille.^ 
Pudding  a  la  Mephistophiles. 

A.  SOYER. 


FESTIVTriES  AT  GRENDON  HALL. 

A  series  of  festivities  are  taking  place  at  the  seat  of  Sir  George 
Chctwynd,  Bart.,  Grendon  Hall,  Ather stone,  Warwickshire,  to  celebrate 
the  christening  of  Sir  George's  infant  grandson.  The  christening  took 
place  on  Tuesday,  at  Grendon  church,  and  in  the  evening  a  grand  din- 
ner was  given  in  celebration  of  the  event,  under  the  able  superinten- 
dence of  M.  Alexis  Soyer.  As  the  dinner,  which  was  provided  for 


344  FESTIVITIES    AT    GRENDON    HALL. 


twenty  persons,  was  of  a  very  recherche  description,  we  subjoin  the  bill 
of  fare. 


Deux  Potages. 
One  of  Clear  Turtle. 
Ditto  a  la  Mvernaise. 

Deux  Poissons. 

Crimped  Severn  Salmon  Turbot 

a  la  Regence.  a  la  Cardinal 

Deux  Releves. 

La  Hanche  de  Venaison.  Deux  Poulardes  a  la  Nelson. 

Six  Entrees. 

.  Les  Ortolans  a  la  Yicomtesse.  ^ 

.2  §         Epigramme  d'Agneau  a  la  puree  de  concombres.         3  £?. 
£  ^  Grenadins  de  Veau  aux  petits  pois.  ™,  |' 

0  Of  Filets  de  Caneton  au  jus  d'orange.  H-  & 
OT  §                  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Provenfale. 

Turban  de  Volaille  a  la  Perigord. 

3-3                                            |  g- 

1  '5                                      Deux  Rotis.  I,  £ 
pjj  g'                 Cailles  bar  dees  aux  feuilles  de  vignes.  |  JS' 

6(0  Gelinottes  des  Ardennes. 

Huit  Entremets. 

Turban  de  Meringues  Pain  de  Fruit 

aux  Pistaches.  aux  Peches. 

Galantine  Croutades  d'Artichaux 

a  la  Voliere.  a  1'Indienne. 

Vegetable  Marrow  Miroton  de  Homard 

a  la  BechameL  a  la  Gelee. 

Bavaroise  Mousseuse  Blanche  Creme 

a  1'Ananas.  au  Marasquin. 

Ices.  Deux  Releves.  St.  James's 

Pine  Apple       Hure  de  Sanglier  en  surprise  glace  Cake, 

and  a  la  Vanille.  the  first 

Strawberry.      Petits  Biscuits  souffles  a  la  Creme.  ever  made. 


After  dinner  M.  Soyer  had  the  honor  of  presenting  the  youthful  heir 
the  proof  copy  of  his  new  work  on  Cookery. 

Morning  Post,  July  26,  1849. 


CHO-CA.  345 


LETTER  XXI. 


A  NEW  ALIMENT. 

Bifrons  Villa. 

Here,  dear  Eloise,  is  an  entirely  new  aliment,  which  has  never  yet 
been  introduced  into  this  country.  A  semi-epicure  of  our  acquaintance, 
on  returning  from  his  visit  to  the  National  Guard  of  France,  presented 
me  with  a  pound  of  it,  which  he  had  purchased  in  Paris ;  but  even 
there,  said  he,  it  is  almost  in  its  infancy  :  you  may  fancy,  if  I  were  not 
anxious  of  making  an  immediate  trial  of  it ;  but  before  I  give  you  the 
receipt  how  to  use  it,  let  me  tell  you  I  have  found  it  most  delicious. 
Mr.  B.  has  not  yet  tasted  it,  being  for  a  week  in  the  country,  but  I  am 
confident  he  will  like  it,  especially  for  breakfast:  but  the  puzzle  is, 
after  my  pound  is  used,  how  we  are  to  get  more  ?  Time,  I  suppose, 
will  teach  us.  It  appears  that  we  are  indebted  for  it  to  a  celebrated 
French  gentleman,  M.  le  Docteur  Lamolte,  the  inventor  of  the  electric 
light,  who  ingeniously,  though  oddly,  named  it  Cho-ca,  being  a  scientific 
composition  of  chocolat  and  cafe,  the  alliance  of  which  balancing  ad- 
mirably their  excellence  and  virtue,  and  partly  correcting  their  evils, 
the  first  being  rather  irritable,  the  second  heavy.  But  I  think,  if  my 
recollection  serves  me  rightly,  the  idea  of  this  compound  must  have 
originated  from  that  great  French  philosopher,  M.  de  Voltaire,  who 
constantly,  for  his  breakfast,  partook  of  half  cafe-au-lait  and  half 
chocolate,  which  were  served  at  the  same  time  in  separate  vessels  in 
a  boiling  state,  and  poured  from  each  slowly,  about  eighteen  inches  in 
elevation  from  his  cup,  which,  he  said,  made  it  extremely  light  and 
digestible. 

Years  after,  that  still  more  extraordinary  man,  Napoleon  Bonaparte, 
became  so  partial  to  it,  that  he  made  a  constant  use  of  it,  and  it  has 
often  been  remarked  by  those  who  surrounded  his  person,  that  after  the 
great  excitement  and  fatigue  of  a  battle  he  has  often  partaken  of  two 
or  three  cups,  which  seemed  to  restore  all  the  strength  and  energy  which 
used  to  characterize  that  great  man;  on  ordinary  occasions  one  cup 
would  suffice  him,  but  served  more  a  la  militaire,  not  being  poured  so 
scientifically  as  did  the  Fernaise  philosopher. 

The  approval  of  this  mixed  beverage  by  two  such  eminent  characters 
speaks  volumes  in  favor  of  the  Cho-ca,  which  ought  to  be  immediately 
introduced  in  England.  It  will  also,  no  doubt,  interest  you  to  learn 
that  the  first  cup  of  coffee  ever  introduced  in  Europe  was  made  and 
presented  to  Louis  XIV.,  at  his  magnificent  palace  of  Versailles,  by  the 
Ambassador  from  the  Sublime  Porte  in  the  year  1664,  when  the  noble 
potentate,  whose  palate  was  as  delicate  as  he  was  himself  great,  pro- 
nounced it  excellent ;  and  immediately  perceived  the  immense  advan- 
tage it  would  be  to  introduce  such  a  delicacy  into  France  as  food,  wliich 
a  short  time  after  took  place,  and  was  very  successfully  received  there ; 
also  the  chocolate,  which  is  made  from  cacao,  was  first  introduced  to 
the  Cardinal  Mazarin,  who,  having  partook  of  the  first  cup  like  Louis 


346  ON    CARVING. 


XIV.  did  of  the  coffee,  and  not  a  worse  judge  than  his  illustrious 
master,  remunerated  with  a  handsome  reward  its  inventor.  It  is  much 
to  be  regretted  that  such  interesting  and  useful  subjects  have  never  yet 
attracted  the  attention  of  our  great  Painters,  instead  of  continually 
tracing  on  innumerable  yards  of  canvass  the  horrors  of  war,  the  de- 
struction of  a  fleet  by  fire  and  water,  the  plague,  the  storm,  the  earth- 
quake, or  an  eruption  and  destruction  of  a  city  by  an  avalanche  or  an 
inundation ;  if  we  cannot  do  without  those  painful  historical  reminis- 
cences, why  not  add  to  those  mournful  collections  a  group  of  Louis 
XIV.  and  his  court  at  Versailles,  where  he,  magnificently  dressed,  was 
receiving  from  the  hands  of  the  said  Pacha,  not  a  cup  of  coffee,  but  a 
branch  of  that  plant  covered  with  its  precious  berries ;  and  why  not 
also,  as  a  pendant,  Mazarin  surrounded  by  his  satellites,  taking  the 
first  cup  of  chocolate ;  or  the  characteristic  Voltaire  pouring  a  cup  of 
Cho-ca  to  Frederic  the  Great  in  his  tent  on  the  field  of  Potsdam? 
These  subjects  seem  to  have  been  entirely  neglected  in  being  immor- 
talized on  canvass,  why  ?  because  they  have  never  done  harm  or  evil 
to  any  one  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  have,  are,  and  ever  will  prove  to  be, 
among  the  greatest  boons  ever  conferred  upon  humanity  :  it  would  also 
engrave  in  our  minds,  as  well  as  in  our  history,  to  what  mortals  we  are 
indebted  for  the  importation  and  introduction  of  such  important  pro- 
ductions, which  daily  constitute  a  part  of  our  comforts,  and  have  con- 
ferred an  everlasting  benefit  on  mankind ;  but,  as  usual,  dear  Eloise, 
you  will  no  doubt  reproach  me  for  having  so  much  enthusiasm ;  how- 
ever, as  on  this  subject  you  have  been  tolerably  quiet  lately,  I  not 
only  here  inclose  you  the  receipt,  but  also  two  of  the  thin  round  cakes 
of  this  new  aliment,  the  Cho-ca,  which  will  produce  two  cups  by  making 
it  as  follows : — 

880.  Cho-ca. — Scrape  or  grate  it ;  put  a  pint  of  milk  in  a 
stewpan  or  chocolate-pot,  and  place  it  on  the  fire,  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  boil  it,  put  the  Cho-ca  in  it,  and  stir  it  well 
for  two  minutes,  and  serve. 


ON  CARVING. 

You  reproach  me  for  not  having  said  a  word  about  carving ;  I  have 
not  done  so,  as  I  think  that  is  an  accomplishment  which  our  sex  need 
not  study,  but  at  the  same  time  it  is  well  to  know  a  little  of  it.  It  is 
rather  difficult  to  give  you  a  correct  description  without  drawings,  but 
a  few  general  remarks  may  be  useful. 

Cut  Beef,  Veal,  Ham,  Tongue,  and  Breasts  of  Poultry,  with  a  sharp 
knife,  very  thin ;  Mutton,  Lamb,  and  Pork  rather  thicker. 

Never  rise  from  your  seat  to  carve ;  never  cut  across  the  grain  of  the 


ON    CARVING.  347 


meat,  that  is,  not  across  the  ribs  of  beef,  as  I  have  seen  some  persons 
do,  and  Mr.  B.  tells  me  is  often  done  at  clubs,  but  it  is  only  those  do 
so  who  do  not  know  how  to  carve  or  appreciate  the  true  flavor  of  the 
meat. 

Never  place  a  fork  through  the  back  of  a  fowl,  in  order  to  carve  the 
leg  and  wings,  but  run  the  knife  gently  down  each  side  the  breast,  de- 
taching the  leg  and  wing  at  the  same  time,  which  is  greatly  facilitated 
by  the  use  of  the  Tendon  Separator — one  of  which  I  purchased  at 
Bramah's,  in  Piccadilly  ;  it  is  the  greatest  boon  ever  conferred  on  a  bad 
'carver :  the  directions  for  using  it  are  given  with  it.  If  it  was  more 
generally  used,  there  would  be  no  more  birds  flying  across  the  table  in 
the  faces  of  guests ;  no  more  turkeys  deposited  in  a  lady's  or  gentle- 
man's lap ;  no  more  splashing  of  gravy  to  spoil  satin  dresses ;  but  all 
would  be  divided  with  the  greatest  facility,  and  in  the  most  elegant 
manner,  and  the  poultry  would  look  much  better  at  table. 

Never  cut  up  the  body  of  poultry  at  table,  that  should  always  be 
left ;  but  game  should  be  cut  up,  as  many  epicures  prefer  the  back- 
bone. For  a  sirloin  of  beef  the  under  part  of  the  loin  should  always 
be  cut  when  hot,  and  the  upper  part  cut  straight  from  the  backbone 
towards  the  outside  of  the  ribs,  by  this  plan  you  will  not  spoil  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  joint. 

Ribs  of  Beef  should  be  carved  in  the  same  way,  cutting  thin  and 
slanting. 

Round  of  Beef:  cut  a  slice  half  an  inch  thick  from  the  outside,  and 
then  carve  thin  slices,  with  a  little  fat. 

Aitch-bone,  the  same. 

Fillet  of  Veal,  the  same. 

Loin  of  Veal,  carve  as  the  Sirloin  of  Beef,  serving  some  of  the  kidney, 
and  fat  to  each  person. 

Shoulder  of  Veal,  begin  from  the  knuckle,  cut  thin  and  slanting. 

Saddle  of  Mutton  will,  if  properly  carved,  serve  a  great  many  per- 
sons ;  instead  of  cutting  a  long  slice  the  whole  length,  put  your  knife 
under  the  meat  and  cut  it  away  from  the  bone,  then  cut  it  like  thin 
chops,  serving  lean  and  fat  together ;  according  to  the  usual  plan,  a 
saddle  of  mutton  will  serve  but  few  people,  and  the  flavor  of  the  meat 
is  not  so  good  as  when  served  this  way. 

Necks  and  Loins :  the  bones  should  be  severed  by  a  small  meat-saw, 
arid  not  a  chopper,  and  the  bone  cut  through  when  serving,  and  carve 
slanting. 

Haunches  are  usually  carved  by  making  a  cut  near  the  knuckle  and 
cutting  a  slice  from  that  through  the  loin ;  but  by  a  plan  I  have  adopted, 
I  find  that  the  meat  eats  better,  and  the  joint  goes  farther.  I  carve  it 
like  the  leg  and  saddle,  that  is,  I  cut  a  slice  out  of  the  leg  part  and  a 
slice  from  the  loin,  and  serve  together.  This  is  more  economical,  but 
would  not  do  for  venison. 

Lamb. — For  Leg  and  Shoulders,  proceed  as  for  Mutton.  The  Ribs, 
when  well  prepared  and  the  bones  properly  separated,  carve  into  cutlets, 
and  serve  with  a  piece  of  the  brisket. 

Quarter  of  Lamb :  the  ribs  should  be  sawed  through,  and  the  bones 
disjointed  previous  to  cooking.  The  shoulder  should  be  then  nicely 


348  THE    SEPTUAGENARIAN    EPICURE. 


removed,  the  seasoning  added ;  then  divide  the  ribs  and  serve  one  part 
of  the  brisket  to  each  person. 

Pork :  proceed  like  the  Mutton. 

In  carving  a  Ham,  remove  a  thick  slice,  of  about  one  inch,  flat  cut 
slantways  from  the  knuckle-end — a  Tongue,  begin  three  inches  from 
the  tip,  and  cut  thin  slanting  slices. 


LETTER  No.  XXII. 


THE    SEPTUAGENARIAN   EPICURE. 

MY  DEAR  ELOISE, — Having  now  arrived  at  the  conclusion  of  our 
labors,  during  -which  you  have  in  many  instances  thought  me  rather 
severe,  and  perhaps  too  exigeant  in  my  remarks,  especially  about  the 
selection,  preparation,  and  cooking  of  food  in  general,  which  even  to 
the  last  I  must  maintain,  that  for  want  of  judgment  and  a  little  care, 
the  greatest  part  of  the  nutrition  of  our  aliments  is  often  destroyed, 
which  constitutes  a  considerable  waste,  being  of  no  good  to  any  one, 
but  an  evil  to  everybody ;  and  when  you  consider  the  monstrous  quan- 
tity of  food  our  fragile  bodies  consume  in  this  sublunary  sphere  during 
the  course  of  our  life,  the  truth  of  my  observation  will  be  more  apparent, 
and  make  you  agree  with  me  that  in  every  instance  people  ought  really 
to  devote  more  tune,  care,  and  personal  attention  to  their  daily  subsist- 
ence, it  being  the  most  expensive  department  through  life  of  human 
luxury.  I  shall,  for  example,  give  you  a  slight  and  correct  idea  of  it, 
wliich  I  am  confident  you  never  before  conceived.  For  this  I  shall 
propose  to  take  seventy  years  of  the  life  of  an  epicure,  beyond  wliich 
age  many  of  that  class  of  "  bon  vivants"  arrive,  and  even  above  eighty, 
still  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  degustation,  <fcc.,  (for  example,  Talleyrand, 
Cambaceres,  Lord  Sefton,  cfec. ;)  if  the  first  of  the  said  epicures  when 
entering  on  the  tenth  spring  of  his  extraordinary  career,  had  been  placed 
on  an  eminence,  say,  the  top  of  Primrose  hill,  and  had  had  exhibited 
before  his  infantine  eyes  the  enormous  quantity  of  food  his  then  insig- 
nificant person  would  destroy  before  he  attained  his  seventy-first  year, 
— first,  he  would  believe  it  must  be  a  delusion;  then,  secondly,  he 
would  inquire,  where  the  money  could  come  from  to  purchase  so  much 
luxurious  extravagance  ?  But  here  I  shall  leave  the  pecuniary  expenses 
on  one  side,  which  a  man  of  wealth  can  easily  surmount  when  required. 
So  now,  dearest,  for  the  extraordinary  fact :  imagine  on  the  top  of  the 
above-mentioned  hill  a  rushlight  of  a  boy  just  entering  his  tenth  year, 
surrounded  with  the  recherche  provision  and  delicacies  claimed  by  his 
rank  and  wealth,  taking  merely  the  medium  consumption  of  his  daily 
meals.  By  closely  calculating  he  would  be  surrounded  and  gazed  at 
by  the  following  number  of  quadrupeds,  birds,  fishes,  &c. : — By  no  less 
than  30  oxen,  200  sheep,  100  calves,  200  lambs,  50  pigs ;  in  poultry, 
1200  fowls,  300  turkeys,  150  geese,  400  ducklings,  263  pigeons ;  1400 


THE    SEPTUAGENARIAN    EPICURE.  349 


partridges,  pheasants,  and  grouse ;  600  woodcocks  and  snipes  ;  600  wild 
ducks,  widgeon,  and  teal ;  450  plovers,  ruffes,  and  reeves  ;  800  quails, 
ortolans,  and  dotterels,  and  a  few  guillemots  and  other  foreign  birds ; 
also  500  hares  and  rabbits,  40  deer,  120  Guinea  fowl,  10  peacocks,  and 
360  wild  fowl  In  the  way  of  fish,  120  turbot,  140  salmon,  120  cod, 
260  trout,  400  mackerel,  300  whitings,  800  soles  and  slips,  400  floun- 
ders, 400  red  mullet,  200  eels,  150  haddocks,  400  herrings,  5000  smelts, 
and  some  hundred  thousand  of  those  delicious  silvery  whitebait,  besides 
a  few  hundred  species  of  fresh- water  fishes.  In  shell-fish,  20  turtle, 
30,000  oysters,  1500  lobsters  or  crabs,  300,000  prawns,  shrimps,  sardines 
and  anchovies.  In  the  way  of  fruit,  about  500  Ibs.  of  grapes,  360  Ibs. 
of  pine-apples,  600  peaches,  1400  apricots,  240  melons,  and  some  hun- 
dred thousand  plums,  greengages,  apples,  pears,  and  some  millions  of 
cherries,  strawberries,  raspberries,  currants,  mulberries,  and  an  abund- 
ance of  other  small  fruit,  viz.,  walnuts,  chestnuts,  dry  figs  and  plums.  In 
vegetables  of  all  kinds,  5475  pounds  weight,  and  about  2434|  pounds 
of  butter,  684  pounds  of  cheese,  21,000  eggs,  800  do.  plovers'.  Of 
bread,  4£  tons,  half  a  ton  of  salt  and  pepper,  near  2%  tons  of  sugar ; 
and,  if  he  had  happened  to  be  a  covetous  boy,  he  could  have  formed  a 
fortification  or  moat  round  the  said  hill  with  the  liquids  he  would  have 
to  partake  of  to  facilitate  the  digestion  of  the  above-named  provisions, 
which  would  amount  to  no  less  than  11,673|  gallons,  which  may  be 
taken  as  below  : — 49  hogsheads  of  wine,  1368|  gallons  of  beer,  584  gal- 
lons of  spirits,  342  liqueur,  2394|  gallons  of  coffee,  cocoa,  tea,  <fec.,  and 
304  gallons  of  milk,  2736  gallons  of  water,  all  of  which  would  actually 
protect  him  and  his  anticipated  property  from  any  young  tliief  or  fellow 
schoolboy,  like  Alexandre  Dumas  had  protected  Dante  and  his  immense 
treasure  from  the  pirates  in  his  island  of  Monte  Christo.  You  now, 
dearest,  fancy  that  I  am  exaggerating  in  every  way ;  but  to  convince 
you,  and  to  prevent  your  puzzling  your  brain  to  no  purpose,  I  also  en- 
close you  a  medium  scale  of  the  regular  meals  of  the  day,  from  which 
I  have  taken  my  basis,  and  in  sixty  years  it  amounts  to  no  less  than  33| 
tons  weight  of  meat,  farinaceous  food  and  vegetables,  &c. ;  out  of  which 
I  have  named  in  detail  the  probable  delicacies  that  would  be  selected 
by  an  epicure  through  life.  But  observe  that  I  did  not  count  the  first 
ten  years  of  his  life,  at  the  beginning  of  which  he  lived  upon  pap, 
bread  and  milk,  &c.,  also  a  little  meat,  the  expense  of  which  I  add  to 
the  age  from  then  to  twenty,  as  no  one  can  really  be  called  an  epicure 
before  that  age ;  it  will  thus  make  the  expenses  more  equal  as  regards 
the  calculation.  The  following  is  the  list  of  what  I  consider  his  daily 
meals : — 

Breakfast. — Three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  coffee,  four  ounces  of  bread, 
one  ounce  of  butter,  two  eggs,  or  four  ounces  of  meat,  or  four  ounces  of 
fish. 

Lunch. — Two  ounces  of  bread,  two  ounces  of  meat,  or  poultry,  or 
game,  two  ounces  of  vegetables,  and  half  a  pint  of  beer  or  a  glass  of 
wine. 

Dinner. — Half  a  pint  of  soup,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fish,  half  a 
pound  of  meat,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  poultry,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  savory  dishes  or  game,  two  ounces  of  vegetables,  two  ounces  of 


350  THE    SEPTUAGENARIAN   EPICURE. 


bread,  two  ounces  of  pastry  or  roasts,  half  an  ounce  of  cheese,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fruit,  one  pint  of  wine,  one  glass  of  liqueur,  one  cup 
of  coffee  or  tea ;  at  night  one  glass  of  spirits  and  water. 

Now  that  I  have  given  you  these  important  details,  perhaps  you  will 
give  me  some  little  credit  for  my  exaction  and  severity  respecting  the 
attention  which  ought  to  be  daily  paid  to  the  indispensable  and  useful 
art  of  cookery  by  our  middle  classes.  I  shall  also  observe  to  you,  that 
those  masses  of  provisions  above  described  in  the  expose  of  sixty 
years,  have  been  selected,  dressed,  and  served,  by  scientific  hands, 
every  real  epicure  choosing  through  life  the  best  cook,  and  consequently 
the  best  of  provisions,  which,  had  they  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
inexperienced  persons,  would  very  likely  have  wasted  one  third,  thereby 
increasing  the  expenses,  and  never  giving  any  real  satisfaction  to  the 
consumer ;  therefore  let  us  act  in  a  small  way  as  becomes  us,  as  it  is 
for  the  wealthy  according  to  their  incomes  ;  let  every  housekeeper  de- 
vote more  time  to  the  study  of  domestic  and  practical  economy;  in 
many  instances  it  will  increase  their  incomes  as  well  as  their  daily 
comforts,  as  I  remarked  to  you  that  the  pleasures  of  the  table  being 
not  only  the  most  expensive  part  of  human  luxury,  but  also  the  soul 
of  sociability,  require  more  attention  bestowed  upon  it  than  is  done  at 
the  present  day. 

Fare  you  well, 

HORTENSE. 


INDEX. 


ACID            .           •  """•' 

PAGE 

57 

Barley  Water 

PAGE 
41 

A-la-mode  Beef     . 

164,  165 

Batter  for  Fritters  . 

305 

Albumen    . 

158 

Beans,  Broad         .           . 

259 

Almond  Water 

42 

French 

259 

Almond  Cake,  Iced 

304 

a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel 

259 

Ice,  White 

297 

Haricot 

260 

Aitch-Bone  of  Beef 

122 

Young      . 

260 

Aliment,  a  New     . 

345 

a  la  Bretonne 

261 

284 

118 

Charlotte 

282 

A-la-mode 

64,  165 

Compote 

307,  308 

Aitch-Bone  of 

122 

Dumplings 

294 

Brisket  of 

122 

Flanc    .           . 
Fritters 

275 
281 

Croquettes  of  . 
Choice  of        .           •        '^ 

167 
118 

Jelly     . 

320 

Essence  of 

36 

saute  in  Butter 

285 

Family  Salad  of 

167 

Pie 

296 

Fillets  of,  Broiled      . 

165 

Pudding 

294 

Saut6         .     ; 

166 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

273 

to  hang 

118 

Apples,  Baked 

45 

Hashed 

158 

and  Fig  Beverage 

45 

Minced 

166 

and  Rice  Pudding 

47 

Miroton 

59,160 

with  Rice 

• 

283 

Palates            .           .       " 

160 

with  Butter      . 

» 

284 

a  la  Bretonne  . 

161 

Apricot  Compote  . 
Fritters 

308, 

309,  310 

282 

a  la  Poulette    .      • 
a  la  Maitre  d'H&tel 

161 
161 

Ice  Cream 

317 

Pickle  for,  a  la  Garrick 

242 

Marmalade      • 

318 

Pressed 

242 

Nougat        •     • 

278 

remains  of 

158 

Pudding 

294 

Ribs  of,  Braised 

119 

Arrow-root       >  '  •      .  '•" 

39 

Larded 

241 

Jelly 
Water       . 

40 
44 

Roasted 
Round  of,  Salted 

119 
121 

Broth 

34 

cold     . 

121 

Artichokes.           .      , 
Jerusalem 

259 
81,259 

Rump  Steak,  Stewed 
Half-round  of,  silver  side 

164 
121 

Asparagus  ,     ~     . 
with  Eggs    . 
Aspic  of  Meat        .      • 

253 
217 
240 

Salt,  remains  of         . 
Salt,  Bubble  and  Squeak 
Sirloin  of 
Stewed  Rump  of 

169 
163 
119 
120 

Spiced  . 

242 

Bacon,  to  choose    . 

18,140 

Tea      ... 

36 

to  boil 

141 

Beignet  Souffle 

281 

to  broil 

19 

Beet-root     . 

258 

Baking,  on  . 
Barley  Lemonade  . 

60 
42 

Beurre  Noir,  or  Black  Butter 
Beverage,  Refreshing 

98 
43,44 

Barley  Orangeade  . 

43 

Bills  of  Fare 

339 

352 


INDEX. 


Biscuit  Souffle 
Cocoa-Nut 

PAGE 
301 

325 

Calf's  Brains,  to  prepare 
Ears,  stewed 

PAGE 

128 
174 

Cream 

326 

Feet     . 

53, 

214,  240 

Moss     . 

325 

Feet  Jelly 

286 

Rout     . 

325 

Head    . 

28,  130 

Blackberry  Pudding 

294 

Curry 

213 

Black-Pudding,  broiled 

20 

Hollandaise 

130 

Blancmange 

290 

with  Mushrooms 

130 

Bloaters 

15 

with  Tomatoa 

130 

Boiling,  on 

60 

Heart,  roasted 

172 

Boudins  of  Fowl    . 

197 

Liver,  English  fashio 

172 

Turkey 

197 

fried       . 

175 

Bottoms  and  Tops,  to  ma 
Braising,  on 

e 

11 
60 

sauted  . 
stewed  . 

172 
175 

Braise-Roast 

147 

Sweetbreads   . 

173 

Boil  . 

148 

au  Grati 

174 

Bread,  to  make 

10 

another 

ray 

173 

and  Milk 

30 

Caper  Sauce 

113 

and  Apple 
Breakfast  Table     . 

284 
7,26 

Capillaire    . 
Capon,  boiled 

330 
151 

Brocoli 

257 

and  Cresses     . 

227 

Broiling      . 

63 

a  1'Estragon    . 

157 

Broth,  Arrow-root  . 

34 

Pie        . 

236 

Chicken 

37,53 

Roast    . 

150 

Eel       . 

38 

Roast  braised 

147 

Mutton 

33 

Stewed 

151 

Rice     . 
French  Herb    . 

34 

44 

Capilotade  of  Poultry 
Carp,  baked 

193 
106 

Seasoned 

33 

Sauce  Matelote 

106 

Semoulina 

34 

Carrot  Pudding      . 

292 

Turkey 

147 

with  Poulards 

152 

Various 

34 

Soup     . 

89 

Vermicelli 

34 

White 

89 

Veal     . 

35 

Sauce  .           • 

73 

Brown  Stock 

77 

Carving 

346 

Browning    . 

78 

Cauliflower 

257 

Brioche  Rolls,  to  make 

12 

Gratin,  with  Cheese 

257 

Brussels  Sprouts    . 

259 

Puree,  Soup    . 

71,89 

Bubble  and  Squeak 

163 

Celery 

256 

Buns,  to  make 

12 

Cheesecakes 

229 

Butter 

334 

Lemon            . 

280 

Anchovy 

117 

Maids  of  Honor 

280 

Burnt    .           «,  ,  .  7 

217 

Puff      . 

303 

Lobster 

117 

Cheese  Souffle 

304 

Melted 

112 

Raminole    •    . 

303 

Maitre  d'Hdtel 
Ravigote 

117 
117 

Charlotte,  Apple    . 
Russe  . 

282 
289 

Cheese,  to  make    . 

384 

Cacao 
Cake,  Almond 

25 
325 

Charlotte,  Strawberry 
Chartreuse  of  Fruit 

289 
290 

Cinnamon 

326 

Cherry  Draught     . 

44 

Ginger 
Pound 

326 
324 

Compote 
Cherry  Marmalade 

309,  311 
319 

Queen's 

324 

Omelette 

281 

Rout     . 

325 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

271 

Savoy,  in  Moulds 

322 

Pudding          . 

295 

Cake,  Savoy,  or  Ladies'  I 
Shrewsbury     . 

ingers 

323 
326 

Chestnut  Pudding  . 
Chicken,  Boiled     . 

296 
53,  193 

Sponge 

323 

Braised 

192 

small 

324 

Broth    . 

37,53 

St.  James's 

327 

Curry   .           . 

210 

Royal  Iceing  for 
Calf's  Brains,  a  la  Maitre 

d'Hdte 

312 
1       175 

Italian  way 
Pie       . 

153 
203 

fried          .          .       175 

Roast  Braised  . 

192 

INDEX. 


353 


PAGE 

Chicken,  Roast,  for  Invalids        .         53 

PAGE 

Currant  Jelly,  with  Omelette       .       281 

Spring              .  ••• 

228 

Red,  White  &  Black  for  Puddings  294 

Stewed 

150 

and  Raspberry  Pie      .           .       295 

Chicoree  Sauce 

72 

Compote            '.        311 

Choice  of  Pork 

.        139 

Salad 

322 

Choca 

345,  346 

Sweetmeat  of  . 

320 

Chocolate    . 

25 

Curry,  Beef 

212 

Italian 

25 

Calf's  Head,  Feet,  an 

Tail  213,  214 

Iceing  for  Cakes 

312 

Chicken 

210 

Ice  Cream  •  '  ',  ,  ? 

316 

with  Paste 

210 

Choice  of  Meat 

118 

Crab     . 

215 

Chopping  of  Herbs 

267 

Fillets  of  Haddock 

216 

Chump  of  Veal 
Clear  Soup 

125,  127 
79 

Sole 
Whiting 

216 
216 

Clarify  Stock,  to     . 

79 

Game   . 

221 

Cock-a-leekie  Soup 
Cocoa 

83 
.   25,26 

Lamb  . 
Lamb's  Head  . 

212,  213 
.        214 

Nut  Biscuits    . 

325 

Lobster 

214 

Cod,  Boiled 

95 

Mutton 

212 

with  Oysters   . 

95 

Ox  Tail 

214 

Coffee,  on    . 

20 

Oyster 

215 

to  choose 

22 

Pork 

212 

where  first  used  in  L 

ndon  .         21 

Prawn 

215 

to  make 

22 

Rabbit 

211 

French 

23 

Salmon 

215 

White  . 

23 

Skate 

.        216 

made  with  a  filter 

24 

Sauce 

69 

another  way    . 
Cold  Ham  . 

24 
141,  240 

Tripe 
Turbot 

.        214 
.        216 

Conger  Eel,  Stewed 
Confectioner's  Paste 

110 

270 

Veal 
Breast  of  . 

211 

212 

Conversation  on  Househo 

d  Affairs     336 

Custard  Pudding    . 

.  47,  364 

Compote  of  Pigeons 
of  Fruits 

200 
310 

Damson  Pie       •'  • 

.        295 

Cooling  Drink 
Lemonade 

42 
45 

Pudding 
Dartoise  Fourree   . 

.        294 

.        273 

Cow  Heels 

.        169 

Demi-Plum  Pudding 

.        292 

Crab  Curry             %       . 

215 

Dessert 

305 

Cranberry  Pie 

296 

Dewberry  and  Raspberry 

Pie      .        295 

Cresses  with  Pullet 

227 

Diablotins  . 

304 

Cream,  Bohemian  Jelly 

288 

Dinner,  Nursery     . 

28 

Clouted 

335 

Table        .         N 

327 

Coffee  Souffle  . 

.        302 

D'Office,  Paste 

270 

Coffee  Ice 

316 

Dried  Haddock      . 

16 

Pastry  Saute    . 

1      .  .        286 

Mackerel 

97 

Omelette  Souffle 

301 

Sprats  . 

17 

Rice 

299 

Draught,  Cherry    . 

44 

Sauce    . 

.        116 

Drink,  Cooling 

42 

with  Spinach  . 

.    .        260 

New      . 

41 

Crecy  Soup 

89 

Strengthening  . 

43 

Croquettes  of  Fowl 
Macaroni 

195 

285 

Dry  Toast    . 
Ducks,  on   . 

9 
156 

Rice      . 

285 

a  1'Aubergiste 

157 

Crumpets,  to  make 

11 

to  choose 

156 

to  toast        .  "• 

9 

Roasted 

156 

to  serve           . 

10 

Stewed  with  Peas 

156,  198 

Crusts  of  Fruit       « 

278 

Turnips 

157,  199 

Madeira           . 

279 

Varieties  of    . 

156 

Cucumbers 

258 

Ducklings    .       -    . 

228 

Brown  Sauce  . 

67 

Pie 

236 

White  Sauce    . 

.    71,73 

Stewed  with  Peas 

.        156 

with  Poulards  . 

.        152 

Turnips 

157 

Curacao  Jelly 

287 

Remains  of     . 

157 

Currant  Jelly 

320 

Duck,  Wild 

230 

354 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Duck,  Hashed 

225 

Fish—  Pike  . 

105 

with  Orange  Sauce 

225 

Red  Mullet,  or  Sur  Mullet 

.   99 

Salmon 

94 

Ears,  Calf's,  Stewed 

174 

Sauces  . 

111 

Ecarlate  of  Fowl    . 

153 

Salad    . 

247 

Eels,  on 

109 

Salt       . 

95 

to  kill 

109 

Skate    . 

104 

Broth 

38 

Smelts  . 

101 

Fried 

109 

Soles    . 

103 

Pie 

205 

Sturgeon 

96,97 

Spitchcocked  . 

110 

Tench  . 

108 

Skinned 

109 

Trout    . 

107 

Stewed 

109 

Turbot  . 

102 

a  la  Tartare     . 

110 

White  Bait      . 

101 

Effects  of  Fish 

93 

Whiting 

99 

Eggs  au  Beurre 

13 

Fish,  Shell—  Escalops 

250 

Baked  . 

216 

Oysters 

250 

with  Asparagus 

217 

Razor  or  Solen 

250 

with  burnt  Butter 

217 

Prawns 

250 

Hard     . 

14 

Shrimps           • 

251 

in  Cases 
with  Cheese    . 

218 

218 

Fisherman's  Soup  . 
Fillet  of  Beef,  broiled 

86 
165 

to  choose 

12 

Veal,  cold 

241 

with  Green  Peas 

217 

roast 

125 

with  Ham 

19 

Flancs 

274 

plain  Boiled    . 
Poached 

13 
14 

Flanc  of  Apple 
Fruit    . 

275 

274 

Mashed 

217 

Meringue 

274 

Meagre 

217 

what  they  are  . 

158 

with  Mushrooms 

217 

Flounders,  on 

104 

Sauce  . 

112 

Water  Souchet 

104 

Snow    . 

217 

Fried    . 

104 

with  Sprue  Grass 
sur  Ie  plat 

217 
14 

Food,  light,  for  invalids 
Forcemeat,  on 

33 
251 

and  Toast 

14 

to  make 

251 

a  la  Tripe 

217 

of  Fish  . 

252 

Endive  Sauce  or  Puree 

72 

Panada  for 

252 

Entrees,  or  Made  Dishes 

158 

of  Veal 

253 

of  Game  . 

220 

of  Whitings     . 

252 

Epicure,  the  Septuagenar 
Escalops 
Escaloped  Oysters 
Eschalot  Sauce 

an 

348 
250 
250 
66 

Fondu,  Parmesan  . 
Neapolitan 
simple    . 
Stilton  Cheese 

302 
302 
302 
303 

Essence  of  Beef     . 

36 

Fourree,  Dartoise  . 

278 

Gateau 

277 

Fennel  Sauce 

112 

Rissole 

276 

Feet,  Lamb's 

52,  185 

Fowls,  on    . 

149 

Ox 

Calfs    . 

169 
53 

Blanquettes  of 
Boiled  . 

194 
194 

Fish,  on 

93 

Braised 

194 

French-Anglais  way  o 
for  Breakfast  . 

fstewi 

og    no 

Broiled 
Boudins  of 

194,  195 
197 

Carp     . 
Cod       . 

106 
95 

Croquettes  of  . 
Fricassee  of    . 

195 
195 

Conger  Eel 

110 

Fried    . 

193 

Eels      . 

109 

Hashed,  Indian 

193 

Effects  of 

93 

Italian  way 

153 

Forcemeat  of  . 

252 

a  1'Ecarlate      . 

153 

Flounders 

104 

a  la  Marengo   . 

196 

Haddock 

96 

Minced 

194 

Herrings 

100 

Pie 

235 

Mackerel 

97 

Pillau    . 

209 

Maids  . 

104 

Pulled,  for  invalids 

54 

Perch   . 

108 

Roast  braised  . 

148 

INDEX. 


355 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Fowls,  Saute                  194,  196,  197,  199 

Game—  Whim        .         .  <*• 

231 

Salad    .                                           249 

Whewer 

.        231 

to  truss 

150 

Widgeons 

.        231 

Fowl,  Guinea 

229 

Great  Headed 

.        231 

Pea 

229 

Woodcock       . 

231 

French  Beans 

259 

Garlic  Sauce 

68 

Coffee  . 

23 

Garniture  for  Omelettes    . 

219 

Herb  Broth 

44 

Garum  Sauce         .    -     . 

111 

Panada 

41,  252 

Sociorum         ;           «  • 

111 

Remedy  for  Colds 

38 

Gateau  Fourre 

277 

Plums  Compote 

309 

Galantine,  to  cook 

238 

Fritadella 

190 

Jelly     . 

287 

Fritters,  Apple 
Apricot 

282 
282 

Turkey  . 
Veal     . 

.        238 
241 

Orange 

282 

how  got 

117 

Peach 

282 

Gibelote  of  Rabbit 

.        200 

Souffle 

282 

Giblets 

.  85,  155 

Fruit*  Chartreuse  of 

298 

78 

Crusts  . 

278 

Gold  Jelly   . 

287 

Flanc  of 

274 

Goose 

153 

Rissolettes 

273 

to  choose 

153 

Puddings 

294 

Giblets. 

155 

Pies      . 

296 

Hashed 

199 

Salads  of 

21,  322 

Pie 

236 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

271 

Preserved 

155 

Wall     . 

295 

Stewed 

155 

Fricandeau  of  Veal 

170 

Stuffing 

154 

to  carve 

171 

Roasted 

154,  155 

to  dress 

171 

Trussed 

154 

Various  ways  . 
Fritadella    . 

171 

190 

Gooseberry,  Green,  Compote 
Pie 

311 

295 

Frying,  on  . 

61 

Pudding 

294 

Fry,  Lamb's 

138 

Vol-au-Vent    .           *    j 

272 

Fumet  de  Gibier  Sauce 

233 

with  Rhubarb            .  v 

297 

Gosling,  Roast 

.        228 

Game,  choice  of    . 
to  keep 

229 

229 

Grass,  Sprue 
Gratin  of  Lobster  . 

.        255 

245 

Made-dishes  of 

220 

Gravy,  Brown 

77 

Salad  of 

248 

Spinach  and    . 

260 

Soup    . 

92 

Turkey  . 

145 

Tureen  of 

237 

Greengage  Compote 

308,  311 

Entrees  of 

220 

Greengage  Pudding 

.        294 

Dunbird 

231 

Groats,  Scotch,  Gruel 

40 

Garganey 

231 

Grouse  Pie  . 

204,  236 

Gorcock          .          s 

230 

Scotch  Plan  of  Cooking 

222 

Grouse  . 

230 

Gruel 

40 

Red 

230 

Sago     . 

40 

White    . 

230 

Guinea  Fowls,  Roasted    . 

.        229 

Half  Birds 

231 

Lark     . 

232 

Haddocks,  Baked  . 

96 

Moorcock,  or  Gorcoc! 

230 

Dried    . 

16 

Moor-game      . 
Partridge 

230 
230 

Fillets  of 
Ham,  Cold  . 

216 
141,  240 

Red-legged 

230 

and  Eggs 

19 

Pea  Fowl 

229 

Hot 

141 

Pheasant 

229 

Hamburgh  Beef    . 

122 

Hybrid 

229 

Hard  Eggs  . 

14 

Plovers            .        'if3 

231 

Hare,  Jugged 

226,  227 

Pochard           .    •      , 

231 

Roasted           .           .    . 

233 

Ptarmigan 

230 

Haricot  Beans        .           • 

260 

Quails  . 

232 

Hartshorn  Jelly.    . 

287 

Red  Heads      . 

231 

Haunch  of  Mutton 

.        130 

Snipes  . 

232 

Venison 

.        142 

Teal     . 

231 

Head,  Calf's 

128,  130 

356 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Head,  Calf's,  Hollandaise  . 

130 

Jelly,  Punch 

287 

with  Mushrooms 

130 

Quince 

287,  320 

Tomatos 

130 

Rum     . 

237 

Curry 

213 

Silver  . 

287 

Lamb's 

138 

Whipped 

288 

Pig's     . 
Pig's,  Sauce  for 
Pig's,  to  braise 
Heart,  Calf's,  Roasted 
Lamb's 

243 
243 
243 
172 
185 

of  Meat,  to  clarify 
Jesuits,  Turkeys,  so  calle 
Julienne  Soup 

Kidneys,  Bread-crumbed 

239 
144 
81 

18 

Sheep's 

184 

Maitre  d'H6tel 

18 

Herbs  with  Omelette 

219 

on  Toast 

17 

Minced,  Sauce 

67 

Ox 

.        168 

Italian  Sauce  . 

67 

Omelette  of     . 

220 

Chopping 
Herrings,  Boiled    . 
Broiled 

267 
100 
100 

Pudding 
Sauted  . 
Sheep's 

168,  207 
18 
.17,  176 

Toast    . 

15 

Kidney  Beans 

.        259 

Hotch  Potch 

87 

Knuckle  of  Veal    . 

127,  240 

Ice,  Almond,  White 

297 

Lait  de  Poule 

38 

Apricot 

317 

Sweet 

38 

Chocolate 

316 

Lamb 

136 

Coffee  . 

316 

Breast  of,  Broiled 

138 

Lemon 

316 

Curried 

212 

Orange 

317 

Chop 

52,  166,  186 

Pine  Apple 

316 

Curry 

212 

Strawberry 

317 

Cutlets 

185 

Vanilla 

315 

to  cut  up 

136 

Iced  Almond  Cake 

304 

Feet 

52,  J85 

Imperial 

46 

Fry 

.        138 

Indian  Hash 

193 

Head 

138,  139,  213 

Invalids,  Comforts  for 

33 

Heart 

185 

Fish  for 

49 

Leg  of 

137 

Food     . 

33 

Loin  of 

136 

Meat     . 

33,51 

Neck  of 

136 

Partridges 

54 

Pie 

201,  203 

Pigeons 

54 

Papillote 

.        186 

Poultry 

53 

Pudding 

206 

Puddings 

47 

Quarter  of 

136 

Irish  Stew  .           . 

178 

Quality  of 

136 

Soup     . 

82 

Remains  of     . 

184 

Isinglass  Jelly 
Italian  Drops 

287 
327 

Ribs  of 
Saddle  of,  Russian  fa 

136 
lion   .        137 

Sauted  .     .      . 

186 

Jam,  Apricot 
Quince 

318 

318 

Shoulder  of     . 
Larks  a  la  Minute  . 

137 

226 

Raspberry       . 

319 

Pie 

226 

Strawberry 

319 

Laver 

263 

Jardiniere,  Neck  of  Lamb 

136 

Lentils 

.        262 

Sauce    .           . 

137 

Soup     . 

90 

Jelly,  Apple 

320 

Letters—  i,  5  ;  n,  6  ;  in,  26 

iv,  27;  v,  28; 

Arrow-root 

40 

vi,  55  ;  vii,  56  ;  vm,  57 

ix,  58  ;x,  58; 

Bohemian  Cream 
Calf's  Foot       . 

288 
286 

xi,  58;  XH,  120;  xm 
xv,  244  ;  xvi,  305  ;  x 

178  ;  xiv,  181  ; 
i,  327  ;  xvin, 

Curacao 
Currant 

287 
320 

332;  xix,  334;  xx,  345 

Leveret 

xxi,  348. 
.        233 

Gelatine 

287 

Lemonade,  Barley 

42 

Gold     . 

287 

Cooling 

45,  332 

Hartshorn 

287 

Lemon  Cheesecakes 

280 

Isinglass 

287 

Jelly     . 

.        288 

Marasquino     . 

287 

Souffle  . 

299,  300 

Lemon 

288 

Leg  of  Pork 

139,  142 

Orange 

288 

Lamb          • 

.        137 

INDEX. 


357 


Liaison  of  Eggs    . 

PAGE 

68 

Milk  and  Rice 

PAGE 

.  38,  39 

Liver,  Calf's 

.     ,      172,  175 

Semoulina 

.         39 

Lobster  Butter      . 

116 

Tapioca 

39 

Curry    . 

214 

Vermicelli       . 

39 

a  la  Creme      . 

114 

Minced  Beef 

166 

Gratin  of 

245 

Fowl     . 

194 

Miroton  of 

245 

Meat     . 

295 

Omelette 

220 

Pie 

.       295 

Plain    . 

246 

Pudding    . 

.        292 

Salad    . 

246 

Pheasant 

.        222 

Sauce   . 

13,  114 

Mint  Sauce 

68 

Loin  of  Mutton 

134 

Minute,  Snipes  a  la 

224 

Pork     . 

140 

Miroton  of  Beef     . 

159,  160 

Veal     . 

125 

Lobster 

.        245 

Braised     . 

127 

Lobster  Salad 

246 

Luncheon   . 

27 

Moorgame  Pie 

236 

Mould  Pudding      . 

291 

Mackerel  a  la  Maitre  d'H 

tel 

98 

Mock  Turtle,  Brown 

85 

au  Beurre  Noir 

98 

White 

84 

Boiled  . 

97 

Muffins,  to  make    . 

10 

Dried    . 

97 

toast 

9 

Pickled 

107 

Mulberry  Pie 

295 

Stewed 
Soft  Roe  Sauce 

98 
111 

Mulligatawny  Soup 
Muria  Sauce 

85 
111 

Macaroons  .           . 
Macaroni     . 

326 
265 

Mullet,  or  Sur  Mullet,  to 
Papillote 

ook     .         99 

Croquettes 

285 

Saut6    . 

!       100 

a  1'Estoufade  . 

266 

Mussel  Sauce 

115 

au  Gratin 

266 

Mushrooms,  Blanched 

74 

a  1'Italienne    . 

266 

with  Eggs        . 

.        220 

a  la  Napolitaine 

266 

Omelette  of     . 

220 

Pudding 

47 

Sauce              . 

66,  68,  73,  261 

Soup     . 

82 

Mutton,  on 

130 

to  blanch 

265 

Boiled 

132 

Macedoine  Omelette 

281 

Broth 

33,  34,  82 

Madeira  Crusts 

279 

Chop 

51,  178 

Made  Dishes  of  Beef 

158 

Soyer's 

180,  182 

Game 

220 

Saute        .   .   ^ 

.        180 

Remains  of  \ 

eal 

175 

Breast  of,  Curry 

212 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Sauce 

73 

Curry    . 

212 

Maids  of  Honor 

280 

Cutlet,  various  ways 

182,  183,  184 

Marasquino  Jelly  . 
Marinade  of  Salmon 

287 
248 

Plain      . 
French  Ragout  of 

51 
177 

Marrow,  Vegetable 
Pudding 
Matelote 

257 
294 
116 

Haunch  of 
Leg  of,  Roasted 
Boiled 

130 
132 
.        132 

Marmalade  with  Pancake 

282 

a  la  Bretonne 

.        133 

of  Apple 

318 

Braised 

134 

of  Apricot        • 

318 

Stewed 

134 

of  Cherries      . 

319 

Loin  of,  Roasted 

134 

of  Pine  Apple. 
Mashed  Eggs 

322 

217 

Loin  of,  a  la  Bretonn 
Neck  of,  Roasted 

133 
134 

Meagre  Eggs 

217 

Boiled 

.        135 

Soup     . 
Puree    . 

88,  91 
91 

Pie 
Pillau   . 

202 
.        210 

Meat,  Aspic  of 

240 

Pudding 

206 

for  Breakfast  . 

17 

Saddle  of 

131 

for  Invalids      » 

33 

a  la  Polonaise         .       131 

Remains  of      » 

175 

Shoulder  of,  Roasted            .        133 

Melted  Butter 

112 

Boiled    .           .        133 

Mephistopheleian  Sauce 
Meringues  a  la  Cuillerfce 
Flanc    .           •'•  :  '-• 

75 

277 
276 

Baked,  with  Apples  133 
Provincial          .        134 
Stuffed  and  Baked    133 

Milk  and  Bread     . 

30 

358 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Neapolitan  Fondue 

302 

Oysters 

250 

Neck  of  Lamb 

136 

Escaloped 

250 

Pork 

140 

Curry    . 

215 

Veal 

126 

Omelette 

219 

Venison 

143 

Soup     . 

86 

Nectarine  Pudding 

297 

Sauce  . 

115 

New  Drink  . 

41 

Stewed 

251 

Nursery  Dinner 

28 

Panada,  French     . 

41,  252 

Omelettes    . 

15,  219 

Pancake,  with  Marmalade 

282 

Asparagus 

219 

Pap  .... 

i*0*"*1  °s  uo 
Bacon  . 

220 

Parmesan  Fondue  . 

302 

Cherry  . 

281 

Parsnips,  with  Salt  Fish  . 

95 

Currant  Jelly 

281 

Partridge,  Roasted 

230 

Garniture  for 

219 

Hashed 

223 

Ham     . 

219 

for  Invalids     . 

54 

Herb     . 

219 

Pie        . 

204,  236 

Kidney 

220 

Salmi  . 

223 

Lobster 

220 

Sauted  with  Mushrooms 

223 

Mushroom 
Macedoine  of 

220 
281 

Stewed  with  Cabbage 
Palates  of  Beef 

222 
160 

Oyster  . 

219 

a  la  Bretonne  . 

161 

Parmesan 

219 

a  la  Maitre  d'H6tel    . 

161 

Peach  . 

281 

a  la  Poulette  . 

161 

Peas     . 
Preserved  Apr 

cot 

219 

281 

Papillote  Lamb  Chops 
Sauce    . 

186 

69 

Raspberry  Jaa 

281 

Paste,  Beef  Suet    . 

269 

Rum     . 

28J 

different  sorts  of 

268 

Saute  Souffle 

301 

D'Office,  or  Confectioners' 

270 

Sauted  in  Cre 

m 

301 

Puff      . 

268 

Strawberry 

281 

Half 

269 

Sweet  . 

281 

Short,  or  Pate  a  foncer 

269 

Onion,  Button,  Sau 

ce 

72 

for  Fruit  Tarts 

269 

Puree   . 

71 

Pastry  Cream  Saute 

286 

Soup    . 

91 

Turban  of 

304 

Stuffed  . 

74 

Peach  Compote 

307 

Orangeade  . 

46 

Fritters 

282 

Orange  Compote 
Fritters 

09,  310 

282 

Omelette 
Salad    . 

281 
321 

Salad    . 

321 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

271 

Vol-au-Vent 

272 

Pea  -Fowl    . 

229 

Jelly     . 

288 

Pear  Compote 

307 

Ice,  Souffle 

298 

with  Rice 

284 

Sauce  . 

68 

Pie 

296 

Osmazome  . 
Oxen,  to  judge 
how  cut 

37,  118 
118 
118 

Peas  and  Sprue-grass  Sauce 
and  Bacon 
French  way     . 

72 
74 
254 

Ox-beef,  to  hang 
Brains  . 

118 
164 

Green  . 
with  Eggs 

254 

217 

Cheek  . 

84 

Soup 

89,  90 

Feet     . 

169 

Stewed     . 

73 

Heart    . 

162 

Winter 

90 

Kidneys 
Remains 

168 
169 

Pease  Pudding 
Perch,  Sauted"  in  Butter    . 

209 
108 

Tail  Curry 

214 

Hampton  Court  fashion 

108 

au  Gratin 

162 

Pheasant,  Broiled  . 

220 

a  la  Jardin 

ere 

161 

Hashed 

221 

Sauce  piq 

ante 

162 

Joe  Miller's     . 

221 

Soup 

82 

Minced 

222 

Tongue,  cold 

240 

Pie,  raised 

236 

hot 

240 

Roasted 

229 

fresh 

123 

Salmi    . 

222 

pickled 
Remains  of 

4 

123 
23,  169 

Stewed  with  Cabbage 
Pickle  a  la  Garrick 

221 
242 

INDEX. 


359 


PAGE                                                                                                  PAGE 

Pickled  Fish 

248 

Plum  Beverage      .                                45 

Mackerel 

107 

Compote         . 

309 

Pork    . 

142 

Stewed            •.  * 

45 

Salmon 

107 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

273 

Trout    . 

107 

Poached  Eggs 

14 

Pie,  Capon  . 
Chicken 

236 
203 

Pork,  to  cut  up 
Best      . 

139 
139 

Duckling 

236 

to  choose 

139 

Eel       . 

205 

Neck  of 
Salted 

140 
142 

Goose  . 

.        236 

Pickled* 

142 

Grouse 

204,  236 

Chine  of          •  • 

140 

Hare     . 

.        236 

Cutlets  . 

187,  183 

Lamb  . 

201,  203 

Hashed 

189 

Lark     . 

226 

Hand  of 

142 

in  Mould 

234 

Leg  of,  Roasted 

139 

Mutton 

202 

Boiled 

142 

Moorfowl 

236 

Loin  of,  a  la  Piemont 

ise 

140 

Partridge 
Pigeon  . 

204,  236 
204,  236 

Normandy  fashio 
Pudding 

n 

140 
207 

Pheasant 

236 

Sparerib  of     . 

140 

Poulard 

236 

Porridge      .           . 

30 

Rabbit  . 

203 

Potatoes      . 

263 

Rump-steak    . 

202 

Varieties  of     . 

263 

Sea       . 

205 

Baked  . 

264 

Veal  and  Ham 

202,  234 

Boiled  . 

263 

Fruit     . 

296 

Fried    . 

264 

Apple  . 

296 

Mashed     . 

267 

Cherry  . 

295 

Irish  way  of  Boiling 

265 

Cranberry 

295 

a  la  Lyonnaise 

265 

Currant 

295 

a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel 

264 

Damson 

295 

Mashed 

265 

Dewberry  and  Raspberry 
Gooseberry 
Minced  Meat  . 

.        295 
295 
.        295 

Sandwiches     . 
Poultry,  on  .           . 
described 

163 
143 
143 

Mulberry         .           . 

295 

for  Invalids     . 

53 

Pear     . 

296 

to  draw 

144 

Plum    . 

296 

to  kill  . 

143 

Quince 

296 

to  pluck 

144 

Raspberry 

.        296 

en  Capillotade 

193 

Rhubarb 

.        296 

Poulards,  Braised  . 

150 

Whortleberry  . 

.        296 

Boiled  . 

151 

Pies,  simple  plan  of  making 

236 

with  Carrots    . 

152 

Various           .• 

201 

with  Cucumbers 

152 

Pigeons  en  Compote 
for  Invalids 

200 
54 

Poulard  Pie 
with  duenelles 

236 
151 

Pie 

204,  236 

with  Rice 

151 

Stewed  with  Peas       . 

201 

Roasted 

150 

Pig,  Sacking          .         ,»;, 

.        141 

Stewed 

151 

Hind-quarter  of 
Pig's  Cheek            . 

141 
142 

Poults,  Turkey 
Prawn  Curry 

227 
215 

Feet  a  la  Ste.  Menehould 

189 

Preserved  Goose    . 

155 

Stuffed      . 

188 

Prussian  Cutlets    . 

191 

Kidneys 

189 

Pudding,  Meat 

205 

Head,  like  Wild  Boar's 

.        243 

Black    . 

20 

to  braise 

243 

Beefsteak 

205 

Pike,  to  cook 

105 

Kidney 

207 

Sauce  Matelote 

.        106 

Ox-Kidney      . 

207 

Pillau,  Fowl 

209 

Lamb              . 

206 

Mutton  . 

210 

Mutton 

206 

Pine-  Apple  .           .           . 

322 

Pease 

209 

Piquante  Sauce 
Plovers  Sauted  with  Truffles 

.  66,  186 
224 

Pork 
Rabbit 

207 
208 

Pie 

.        236 

Suet 

2oa 

360 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Pudding,  Toad-in-Hole     . 
Veal     . 

208 
207 

Rabbit  Pie  . 
Pudding 

203 

208 

Yorkshire 

208 

Raised  Pies 

235,  236 

for  Invalids  and  Children 

47 

Ramifolle    . 

190 

Apple  and  Rice 
Bread    . 

47 

48 

Raminole,  Cheese  . 
Raspberry  Jam 

303 
319 

Bread  and  Butter 

48 

Omelette 

281 

Small 

48 

Pie 

296 

Cabinet 

47 

Pudding 

295 

Custard 

47 

Vinegar 

43 

Macaroni 

47 

Ratafias 

327 

Rice      . 

47 

Ravigote  Sauce 

.  67,  117 

Tapioca 
Vermicelli       . 

47 

47 

Refreshing  Beverage 
Removes    . 

43 
117,  296 

in  Moulds 

291 

Remains  of  Meat  . 

175 

a  1'Eloise 

291 

Lamb  • 

184 

a  la  Koine 

292 

Duck  . 

157 

Carrot  . 
Chestnut 

292 
296 

Rhubarb  Compote 
Pie        .           . 

311 

296 

Demi-Plum     . 

292 

Pudding 

295 

Iced  Cabinet   . 

297 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

.        273 

Minced  Meat  . 
Nesselrode 

292 

296 

Rice  with  Apples  . 
to  boil  . 

283 

267 

Trifle    . 

292 

Broth    . 

34 

in  Cloths 

293 

Croquettes 

.        285 

Apple  . 

294 

Milk     . 

.  38,  39 

Apricot 

294 

with  Pears 

284 

Blackberry 

294 

Pudding 

47 

Currant,  Red  and  White 
Custard 

294 
294 

with  Apple 
Poulard  with  . 

47 
.        151 

Damson 

294 

Soup     .           . 

82 

Fruit     . 

294 

Water  . 

41 

Gooseberry 

294 

Rissole  Fourree     . 

276 

Greengage 

294 

Rissolettes,  little  Fruit 

.        273 

Nectarine 

294 

Ribs  of  Beef,  Roasted 

119 

Marrow 

294 

Braised 

119 

Peach  . 

294 

Roasting,  on 

59 

Plum    . 

293 

Roasts,  Second  Course 

227 

Plain  Baked    . 

293 

Robert  Sauce 

67 

Plain  Bolster  . 

294 

Root,  Beet  . 

.        258 

Plum  Bolster  .           . 

293 

Rolls,  to  make 

10 

Raspberry  and  Cherry 
Rowley  Powley 

295 
293 

Brioche 
Roux 

12 
65 

Rhubarb 

295 

Rump  Steak 

.  52,  124 

Whorts 

295 

Rum,  Omelette  with 

.        2S1 

Puff  Cheesecakes  . 

303 

Jelly     . 

287 

Paste    . 

268 

Russe,  Charlotte    . 

289 

Pulled  Fowl  for  Invalids  . 

54 

Rusks,  to  make 

11 

Pullets,  on  . 

228 

Roasting 

228 

Saddle  of  Lamb     . 

137 

Roasted,  with  Cresses 
Punch  Jelly 

227 
287 

Sago  Gruel  . 
Salad,  Beef. 

40 
167 

Cold  . 

333 

and  Potatoes 

167 

Fish      . 

247 

Quails 

232 

Fowl     . 

249 

Quenelles.    Ragout  Sauoe 

73 

Game    . 

248 

with  Tongue    . 

151 

Lobster 

246 

Quince  Pie  . 

296 

Miroton 

245 

Plain    . 

246 

Rabbit,  on  . 

232 

Tartar  .           7" 

246 

Roasted 

232 

Salads  of  Fruit 

321,  322 

Curry    . 

211 

Salmon,  Boiled 

94 

Fricassee  of    . 

199 

Broiled 

95 

Gibelotte  of    . 

200 

Curry    . 

215 

INDEX. 


361 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Salmon,  Marinade  . 

248 

Sauce,  Soft  Roe     . 

111 

Matelote 

94 

Sorrel   .           .      . 

71 

Pickled 

107 

Soyer's  . 

69 

Salmi  of  Partridge 

223 

Spinach 

72,  260 

Pheasant  . 

.        22-2 

Tomato 

69,75 

Salsify 

256 

Tartar   . 

75,248 

Sandwiches 

333 

Turnip  .           . 

71,72 

Sauces,  on  . 

64 

Tarragon 

67 

Sauce,  Anchovy     . 

112 

White  . 

64,71 

Anchovy  Butter 

.69,  117 

Wild  Boar's  Head 

244 

Beans,  French, 

72 

Wild  Fowl      . 

233 

Beyrout 

114 

Sardines  and  Toast 

15 

for  Meat 

115 

Salt  Pork    . 

142 

Brown  . 

.    65,66 

Sorrel  Sauce 

71 

Cucumber 
Mushroom 
Beurre  Noir     . 

67 
.    66,68 
98 

Sauteing,  on 
Sausage  Cake 
Sausages,  to  cook  . 

62 
146,  188 
20 

Button  Onion  . 

72 

to  choose 

19 

Caper    . 

113 

Cambridge      . 

20 

Carrot  . 

73 

to  saute           . 

20,146 

Cream  . 

.        116 

Atherstone 

20 

Chicoree 

72 

with  Turkey   *  '    '"'d 

146 

Cauliflower      . 

71 

Savory  Dishes 

234 

Cucumber 

67,  71,  73 

Seakale 

255 

Curry    . 

.          69 

Semoulina  Broth   . 

34 

Demi-glaze 

65 

Milk     . 

39 

Egg       . 

112 

Soup     . 

82 

Endive 
Eschalot 

72 
66 

Shrimp  Sauce 
Sheep  s  Brains       .  '* 

12,  113 
35,  176 

Fumet  de  Gibier 

233 

Feet,  or  Trotters 

'176 

Fennel  . 

.    .        112 

Stock  from 

177 

Fish      . 

.        Ill 

Head    . 

135 

Garum  .           .  '  '    ' 

111 

Heart    . 

184 

Garurn  Sociorum 

111 

Kidneys 

17,  176 

Garlic  . 

68 

Tongue 

184 

Italian  Herb    . 

67 

Sheep,  how  to  cut  up 

130 

Jardiniere 

136 

which  are  best 

130 

Jerusalem  Artichoke 

.  71,  72 

Shell  Fish   . 

250 

Liaison  of  Eggs 

68 

Silver  Jelly  . 

287 

Lobster 

113 

Skate,  to  cook 

104 

New      , 

113 

au  Beurre  Noir 

105 

a  la  Creme 

114 

Curry    . 

216 

simplified 

114 

Soup,  on     . 

75 

Maitre  d'Hdtel 

73,  117,  186 

Autumn 

87 

Matelote 

.        116 

Artichoke 

81,88 

.      Simple 

.        116 

Cabbage 

87 

Mayonnaise     . 

.        247 

Clear     . 

79 

Melted  Butter  . 

112 

Carrot,  White  . 

89 

Mephistophelean 
Minced  Herb  . 

75 
67 

Cauliflower 
Crab     . 

89 
92 

Mint     . 

68 

Crecy    . 

89 

Muria  ..         .     ;_ 

111 

Fisherman's    . 

86 

Mushroom       «'     . 

66,  68,  73,  74 

Game   . 

92 

Mussel  .           .     . 

115 

Giblet  . 

85 

Onion  .. 

.   71,  74 

Hare     . 

91 

Orange  .           »' 

68 

Hotch  Potch    . 

87 

Oyster  . 

.  74,  115 

Italian  Paste    . 

81 

Papillote 

69 

Irish     . 

82 

Peas     .           . 

72,  73,  74 

Julienne 

81 

Piquante 

.  66,  186 

Lamb's  Head  . 

84 

Quenelles       . 

73 

Lentil  . 

90 

Ravigote 

.  67,  117 

Macaroni 

82 

Robert  . 

67 

Mock  Turtle,  Brown 

85 

Shrimp            ,t      " 

.        112 

White 

84 

t 

362 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Soup,  Maigre 
Mulligatawny  . 

88,91 

85 

Steak,  Rump 
Stewing,  on 

54,  164 
60 

Mutton  Broth  . 

82 

76 

Onion   . 

91 

for  all  kinds  of  Soup 

76 

Ox  Cheek 

84 

Brown  . 

77 

Ox  Tail 

83 

to  Clarify 

79 

Oyster  . 

86 

Economical     . 

76 

Palestine 

88 

Sheep's  Feet   . 

177 

Pea      . 

89,90 

Strawberry  Jam     . 

319 

Pot-au-Feu 

92 

Omelette 

281 

Printaniere      . 

80 

Salad    . 

321 

Puree  of  Vegetable 

88 

Charlotte 

289 

Rice     . 

82 

Vol-au-Vent    . 

273 

Scotch  Cock-a-leekie 

83 

Strengthening  Drink 

43 

Semoulina 

82 

Stuffing,  Turkey     . 

148 

Spring  . 

81 

Veal     . 

253 

Sole      . 
Sheep's  Head  . 

86 
84 

Sturgeon     . 
Sucking  Pig 

96,97 
141 

Turnip 

81,89 

Hind-quarter  of 

141 

Vermicelli 

81 

Sugar,  to  boil 

313 

Wild  Fowl      . 

92 

color 

312 

Souffle 

299 

clear 

313 

Beignet 

281 

in  Grains 

312 

Biscuit  . 

301 

of  Lemon 

313 

Coffee  . 

302 

Spring  . 

313 

Cream,  Whipped 

301 

Silk  Thread     . 

315 

Cheese  . 

304 

Vanilla. 

313 

Fritters 

282 

Sweetbreads 

173 

Lemon 

99,  300 

Sautfe    . 

173 

Omelette 

300 

au  Gratin 

173 

Saute     . 

301 

Sweet  Lait  de  Poule 

38 

Cream  . 
Orange  Flower 

301 

299 

Sweetmeat  of  Currant  Jel 

y 

320 

Orange  Iced    . 

298 

Table,  Breakfast    . 

7 

Punch  Cake    . 

298 

Tapioca  Milk 

39 

Rice  Cream     . 

300 

Pudding 

48 

Vanilla 

302 

Tarragon  Sauce 

67 

Smelts,  Broiled     . 

50 

Tartar  Sauce 

75 

Fried    . 

101 

Tarts,  small  Fruit  . 

275 

for  Invalids     . 

50 

Tartlets,  little  Fruit 

275 

Water  Souchet 

51 

24 

Soles,  small,  or  Slips 

17 

how  made  in  France 

21 

Boiled  . 

104 

Beef     . 

36 

•      Fried    . 

103 

new  way  to  make 

25 

Fillets  of  Curried 

216 

Teal,  a  new  method  of  co 

king 

225 

aux  Fines  Herbes 

104 

a  la  sans  facon 

226 

a  la  Meuniere  . 

103 

Tench,  Stewed 

108 

Saute  in  Oil     . 
Snow  Eggs  . 

103 
217 

with  Anchovy  Butter 
Toast,  Plain 

109 

8 

Snipes  a  la  Minute 
Soyer's  Chop 
Sauce  . 

224 
180 
69 

and  Eggs 
Haddock  . 

9 
14 
15 

Sourcrout,  to  cook 

262 

Herring     . 

15 

Bavarian  way  . 
SpareribofPork    . 

263 
140 

Kidneys    . 
Sardines  . 

17 
15 

Spinach      .      •     .  • 

260 

Water       . 

46 

with  Gravy      . 
with  Cream     . 

260 
260 

Crumpets,  to  . 
Muffins 

9 

9 

Sprouts,  Brussels  . 

259 

to  serve 

9 

Spring  Chickens    . 

228 

Toad  in  a  Hole 

208 

Sprats,  to  cook 
Dried    .         :  . 

17 

17 

Tongue,  cold  Ox    . 

24( 

Sprue-grass 

255 

Remains  of     . 

124,  16S 

with  Eggs       . 

217 

Sheep's           »  ^ 

.      .       184 

INDEX. 


363 


PAGE                                                                                                PAGE 

Tomato  Sauce 

69 

Veal,  Fillet  of                   .           .       241 

Tops  and  Bottoms  . 

11 

Roasted                .           .        125 

Trout  a  la  Bretonne 

107 

Braised                 .           .241 

Pickled 

107 

Forcemeat  of              .           .        253 

River    . 

107 

Galantine  of                                   241 

a  la  Twickenham 

107 

and  Ham  Pie               .    202,234,236 

Trifles 

290 

Knuckle  of                 .           127,  240 

Trifle  Pudding 

292 

Loin  of                        .           125,  127 

Tripe  Curry 

214 

Neck  of,  Braised         .           .        126 

Truffles,  Saute  of   . 

262 

with  Peas             .           .        126 

Turbot,  to  cook     . 

102 

with  Haricots       .           .        126 

French  way 

102 

with  new  Potatoes          .       126 

a  la  Creme 
Turban  of  Almond  Cake 

102 
304 

Shoulder  of,  Stewed  .           .        127 
with  Sauce  piquante       126 

of  Boudins  of  Fowl 

198 

Stuffed  and  Braised         126 

of  Pastry 

304 

Cold  ...       241 

Turkey,  Boiled 

146 

Roasted         .           .        126 

Braised 

147 

Braised         .           .        126 

Broth  from 

147 

Remains  of  .           .        175 

Blanquette  of  . 

197 

Vegetables,  to  cook          .           .       253 

Boudins  of 

197 

Artichokes      .                              259 

with  Celery  Sauce 

147 

Jerusalem     .           .       259 

to  choose 

144 

Asparagus       .           .           .       253 

where  from     . 

144 

Beans,  French            .           .       259 

Giblets.           .       . 

155 

a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel  259 

Gravy  for 

145 

Gabanza  .           .           .       262 

Jerusalem  Sauce 

147 

Haricot,  White    .           .       260 

called  Jesuits  . 

144 

a  la  Bretonue       .       261 

Galantine 

238 

Kidney      ...        259 

to  dress           . 

238 

Windsor   ...       259 

with  Oysters   . 

147 

Beetroot          .                              258 

Parsley  and  Butte 
Sausages  . 
Sausage-cake 
Roasted 

r 

147 
146 
146 
144 

Brocoli.           ...        257 
Brussels  Sprouts        .           .       259 
Cauliflower     ...       257 
gratinfe  with  Cheese     257 

Braised 

148 

Celery  .           .           .           .256 

Stuffing  for      . 

148 

Cucumbers      ...       258 

to  truss  . 

145 

Laver  ....       263 

with  Tomatos  . 

147 

Lentils.           ...       261 

Stewed 

149 

Vegetable  Marrow     .           .       257 

Poults  . 

227 

Mushrooms     .           .           .        261 

Tureen  of  Game    . 

237 

large  .           .           .261 
Potatoes,  their  Introduction  .       263 

Vanilla  Cream      . 

315 

Baked           .           .        264 

Souffte  . 

302 

Boiled           .           .       263 

Veal,  on      . 

124 

Irish  way       .       265 

Breast  of         . 

126 

Fried.           .           .       264 

Stuffed  . 

127 

Fried,  Mashed         .       267 

Stewed  . 

127 

a  la  Lyonnaise         .       265 

Curried  . 

212 

a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel  .       264 

Broth    . 

35 

Peas,  Green    .                             254 

Strengthening 

35 

French  way      .       254 

French  fashion 

35 

Salsifls  ....       256 

Curry    . 

211 

Seakale            ...       255 

Cutlets  . 

174 

Sourcrout        ...       262 

aux  Fines  Herbes 

174 

Bavarian       .          .       263 

en  Papillote 

174 

Spinach           ...       260 

Saute 

166 

with  Gravy   .           .       260 

Chump  of 

125 

with  Cream  .          .       260 

Fricandeau  of. 

170 

Sprue  Grass     .                              255 

to  dress 

171 

Truffles,  English         .           .       262 

to  prepar 

e 

170 

Saute  of           .          .       262 

to  carve 

171 

Venison      .          .          »          .       142 

with  all  Sauces 

171 

where  to  keep           .          .       142 

364 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

PAGE 

Venison,  how  to  choose 

142 

Water,  Smelts 

51 

Haunch  of 

142 

Cresses  with  Steak 

124 

Neck  of 

143 

Whitings,  Boiled   . 

49 

Vermicelli  Broth    . 

34 

Broiled 

16,49 

Milk     . 

39 

Fried    . 

50,99 

Pudding 

48 

au  Gratin 

99 

Soup     . 

81 

Forcemeat  of  . 

252 

Victimized  Cutlets 

191 

Sauted  . 

50 

Vinegar,  Raspberry 
Vol-au-Vent 

43 

270 

Fillets  of 
White  Bait,  to  cook 

216 
10J 

of  ApptoB 

273 

Sauce   . 

64,70 

Cherries 

271 

Whipped  Jelly       . 

288 

Fruit. 

271 

WhortsPie. 

296 

Gooseberries 

272 

Pudding 

295 

Oranges 

272 

Woodcock,  Hashed 

224 

another  . 

272 

a  la  Lucullus  . 

223 

still  plainer 
Peaches 

272 
271 

Sportsman's  fashion 
Widgeon,  Hashed  . 

223 
225 

Plums 

273 

Roasted 

225 

Rhubarb 

273 

Wild  Boar's  Head  . 

243 

Strawberries 

273 

Sauce  . 

244 

Wild  Duck,  with  Orange 

Sauce 

225 

Water,  Barley 

41 

Hashed 

225 

Fresh  Fruit     . 

43 

Wine,  Port,  Negus 

333 

Jelly     . 

44 

White,  Fillip  . 

333 

Rice      . 

41 

Toast  and 

46 

Yorkshire  Pudding          .          .       208 

Souchet 

104 

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OR 

MEMOIRS  OF  MY  YOUTH, 

BY 

ALPHONSE      DE     LAMARTINE, 

AUTHOR  OF  "THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  GIRONDISTS,"  ETC. 

Translated    from    the    French, 

BY    EUGENE    PLUNKETT. 

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been  given  to  the  world  are  detailed  in  a  Preface  in  a  manner  to  enlist  our  sympathies, 
and  to  bring  Lamartine  before  us  as  a  confiding  friend,  narrating  the  scenes  and  events 
of  his  youth,  not  as  an  idle  tale,  nor  to  indulge  egotism,  but  to  convey  some  of  the  best 
lessons  for  the  mind  and  heart.  His  description  of  the  home  of  his  youth,  and  shepherd 
employment ;  his  portrait  of  his  mother  who  was  the  idol  of  her  children  and  her  husband 
— if  an  object  of  such  pure  affection  and  worth  can  be  called  an  idol ;  the  Italian  peasant 
girl  Graziella ;  the  young  Aymon  de  Varieu,  who  passed  through  skepticism  to  faith  in 
God  ;  are  passages  that  we  have  read  with  absorbing  interest.  We  understand  Lamartine 
better,  and  respect  him  more,  for  the  use  he  has  made  of  the  discipline  of  life,  nay,  even 
of  his  youthful  transgressions.  It  is  possible  that  to  some  there  may  appear  a  tragic  af- 
fectation here  and  there,  but  we  see  beneath  it  the  most  genuine  feeling,  and  only  a  some- 
what cold  New  Englander  would  find  fault  with  the  mode  in  which  the  feeling  has  ex- 
pressed itself. — Boston  Courier. 

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the  whole  truth  nor  nothing  but  the  truth.  It  is,  however,  none  the  less  agreeable  on  that 
account ;  glowing  and  beautiful  as  is  the  coloring  through  which  the  reader  looks  on  the 
illuminated  pages  of  that  author's  youth  and  early  love,  he  can  easily  pardon  the  en- 
thusiasm, by  turns  joyous  and  melancholy,  from  which  it  sprung.  To  one  whose  love  of 
Nature  is  something  more  than  a  feeling — whose  passion  for  every  form  of  external  beauty, 
joined  to  a  pure  and  lofty  imagination,  gives  a  vital  spirit  and  sympathy  to  every  thing  on 
which  he  looks,  the  language  of  this  volume  iS  not  extravagant,  nor  are  its  glowing  and 
oft  repeated  descriptions  of  mere  scenery  wearisome.  It  is  a  work  whose  brilliancy  all 
will  admire,  but  whose  true  feeling  will  be  appreciated  by  the  imaginative  only.  The 
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Jura  and  among  the  Alps  of  Savoy — his  Ossianic  attachment  for  a  young  girl,  whose 
tower  he  watched  from  the  heights  and  whom  he  addressed  in  poetic  rhapsodies  about  the 
harp  of  Morven  and  the  ghosts  of  Cromla — are  all  described  with  exquisite  poetic  frank- 
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however,  for  every  thing  in  it  is  natural.  There  is  neither  sameness  nor  tameness  in  the 
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